I said on a year old video, and I say it again ;YOU MAKE ME HAPPY !----I learn, but the benefits equal out. Better understanding and technique to use, BUT, HAPPY.--- And, as the Papa of a daughter, only one child, I can say with all my heart ; you are going to be a great DAD--God bless you. "Mike"
Oh yea I remember that video on the 268, I just ordered some orings from the same person a few days ago for the sweet 266se I picked up. Thanks again tinman and fam and can’t wait for your weather to warm up to see some builds rip!
My friend, you should know why the saw goes lean when the bar is on it.......yes the seal is getting bad. why? the bearing is going out. when you put the bar on the saw, the added torque tweaks the bearing/seal just a tad and she leaks. bearings going out on the oil pump side. been there done it. you may want to look into that?
@@nikky3piece452if its been 2 years since your saw ran, and presuming it ran good when parked, it likely needs the carb cleaned and fresh gas. This is such a common thing on 2 strokes...whether they be saws, sleds, dirt bikes, ice augers, lawnboys, you name it, that its the first thing to do after verifying compression and spark.
Love my 600 series jonsered's cut to much wood to count and have a lot of history with these saw's in the last 30+ year's. Yes they have weird little quirk's in the design but considering when they first came onto the market, head and shoulder's above what the competition was doing. Back then these saw's were truly ahead of their time. lot's of good info on these old girl's well done Tinman, take care.
I had a similar problem with a 394, at high rpms it got lean and it was revving extremely high and bogged down in the wood.. After hard revving sometimes it popped ( I supposed it was a bad coil) I tested I'd for air leaks, nothing, I installed a brand new coil, nothing, the carburetor was astonishing! The solution was simple and I got fooled like a newbie! The fuel filter was very dirty.. After the replacement the saw run like a champ! Lesson learned!
I have 3 of those saws ,all 3 I put new jugs on with piston and rings .would start for a min and die ,I went threw carbs and redid also still did it .thank you I think you solved problem , as soon as I ring is here I’ll know .thank you for great videos
Good timing! Just got given a 268k concrete saw power head that is in surprisingly nice shape for a concrete saw. Saw has sat for years....put a splash of gas in it and it fired up o the 8th pull. Adjusted the carb a touch and it starts, runs and idles like a champ! Considering picking up a farmertec 272 kit and making a nice 268 out of the two. I also have a 61 practica white top that needs some love.
My luck with brake clean is not so good as yours, I have used it just a few times for cleaning, it spotted the paint on every saw...jonsereds reds, husky orange and homelite red. It doesn't dissolve or lift paint, but leaves a definite faded look everywhere it comes in contact with the paint, even if you wipe or blow dry quickly. That O ring issue is a puzzle for me, I just opened up a Farmertech 288 prior to even running it, looked over and tweaked everything to make sure it was right and the oil pump o ring was flattened just like it was a gasket and close exam revealed it was a continuous seal for all the circumference of that sealed location. For a single use I am left to assume that larger o ring will work. I did pressure and vac tests on saw prior to disassembly and it was tight.
Tinman, i have an old 61. Just put a 28" bar with a skip tooth chain on it temporarily for felling a couple big trees. I want to make sure the oil pump is on max output for the longer bar and chain. I see there is an adjustment screw with a little line on it, and in the casting, the numbers 1, 2, 3, & 4. Do you just turn that screw so the little plastic dash points to 4 for max bar oil output?
funny this vid came up!! i picked up a 630 a couple weeks ago and i'm going to run through it and maybe do a mild port. now i know where to get some seals and stuff for it!! Tinman strikes again!! thanks buddy
Nice. Prolapsed oil seal....Well put. I like 'mung' too. How did that saw run as well as it did? I've seen a lot of high hours saws that have issues like this, or have just inhaled stuff past the seals (both sides, Stihls seem to like to do the generator side) and then borked the bearings and even blown the big end. Got some nice blue big end eyes on some MS362 cranks - there's a vid on the channel somewhere. Even seen an 026 shed the entire (steel) cage through the transfers and out the Zorst and only die when half a ball got embedded vertically in the piston top in the squish band and locked it up. Half a ball. Looked like it had been cut deliberately. Sometimes life hands you stuff you would never make up... Wise to sort a bottom end properly before putting a saw to working for its living and especially wise before adding power.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Tinman. My 2003 husky 350 died so I bought a Meteor kit for it. I was wondering how to check for air leaks and now I know, thanks. I think I will also have a closer look at the crank seals while it's apart. Thanks again you are a great teacher
That was great info ya the o ring was roached and Moore then likely the Bering have gotten over heated and only makes sense when you rebuild a saw go through it thoroughly or it comes back messed up .good info👍👍👍👍😎
How come you can stall a saw with beake clean, I use it as strating fluid. Thats like the most flammable stuff I know. Well different brands I suppose. Take care Tinman and thanx for the videos
I have a 262xp idles at the speed this saw is running. I can not slow the idle down. I took the top end and carb of another saw and installed it, it does the same thing. I'm going to have to try this. I'm pretty sure I have seal leaking. I replaced the top end on the saw because of low compression and scored piston. I pretty sure it is idling fast because of a leak. If I don't fix it, I'm pretty sure I will burn this top end up too.
I have a 242xp my pops gave me... is that a good saw?? I cant get it to start... its got compression, spark at the plug, and a mist of fuel makes it in cylinder.... it should fire up.... any other ideas?? Thank you
I would be very interested in a port video on this saw I have the same open port 268 and want to port it myself. Thank you tinman God bless you and your family
On say the 365 what are you starting with on tune? 1.5 on L and 1 on H? I just picked up one that has a new carb on it and it seems to idle a lil low but I havnt put a tach on it runs great so far but a lil hard to restart so I have something not set just right I thought. I havnt had it n any big wood yet
The sealed bearing seals are not good enough. The bearings with integrated good seals like the smaller husky (242s and the like) are expensive and you probably can't find the seal part separately so a failed seal is like 100$ in parts.
Really depends on the era of the saw. On these old 162 chassis saws it doesn't mean anything at all. Later saws like 3 series is where you see blue means limited.
Stihl cap when working on a Husky? Also looks like a skateboarder bend- you have other interests, or just getting ready for the kid to get fashionable…..analytics ya gotta know!
I said on a year old video, and I say it again ;YOU MAKE ME HAPPY !----I learn, but the benefits equal out. Better understanding and technique to use, BUT, HAPPY.--- And, as the Papa of a daughter, only one child, I can say with all my heart ; you are going to be a great DAD--God bless you. "Mike"
Tinman how are you shutting the saw down by pulling up on the starter handle?
Oh yea I remember that video on the 268, I just ordered some orings from the same person a few days ago for the sweet 266se I picked up.
Thanks again tinman and fam and can’t wait for your weather to warm up to see some builds rip!
My friend, you should know why the saw goes lean when the bar is on it.......yes the seal is getting bad. why? the bearing is going out. when you put the bar on the saw, the added torque tweaks the bearing/seal just a tad and she leaks. bearings going out on the oil pump side. been there done it. you may want to look into that?
Jim I'm in Minnesota with a 268 just like this one, could you look at mine & get it running? It hasn't ran in 2yrs!!
@@nikky3piece452if its been 2 years since your saw ran, and presuming it ran good when parked, it likely needs the carb cleaned and fresh gas. This is such a common thing on 2 strokes...whether they be saws, sleds, dirt bikes, ice augers, lawnboys, you name it, that its the first thing to do after verifying compression and spark.
Love my 600 series jonsered's cut to much wood to count and have a lot of history with these saw's in the last 30+ year's. Yes they have weird little quirk's in the design but considering when they first came onto the market, head and shoulder's above what the competition was doing. Back then these saw's were truly ahead of their time. lot's of good info on these old girl's well done Tinman, take care.
Hey Tinman. thanks for all your work. Can you please film and show all of your port work on this saw? really wanna see what you do to those open ports
I had a similar problem with a 394, at high rpms it got lean and it was revving extremely high and bogged down in the wood.. After hard revving sometimes it popped ( I supposed it was a bad coil) I tested I'd for air leaks, nothing, I installed a brand new coil, nothing, the carburetor was astonishing! The solution was simple and I got fooled like a newbie! The fuel filter was very dirty.. After the replacement the saw run like a champ! Lesson learned!
Thanks for the content. I love coming to the channel and learning something and relaxing. Blessings my friend.
I have 3 of those saws ,all 3 I put new jugs on with piston and rings .would start for a min and die ,I went threw carbs and redid also still did it .thank you I think you solved problem , as soon as I ring is here I’ll know .thank you for great videos
Good timing! Just got given a 268k concrete saw power head that is in surprisingly nice shape for a concrete saw. Saw has sat for years....put a splash of gas in it and it fired up o the 8th pull. Adjusted the carb a touch and it starts, runs and idles like a champ! Considering picking up a farmertec 272 kit and making a nice 268 out of the two. I also have a 61 practica white top that needs some love.
My luck with brake clean is not so good as yours, I have used it just a few times for cleaning, it spotted the paint on every saw...jonsereds reds, husky orange and homelite red. It doesn't dissolve or lift paint, but leaves a definite faded look everywhere it comes in contact with the paint, even if you wipe or blow dry quickly. That O ring issue is a puzzle for me, I just opened up a Farmertech 288 prior to even running it, looked over and tweaked everything to make sure it was right and the oil pump o ring was flattened just like it was a gasket and close exam revealed it was a continuous seal for all the circumference of that sealed location. For a single use I am left to assume that larger o ring will work. I did pressure and vac tests on saw prior to disassembly and it was tight.
Tinman, i have an old 61. Just put a 28" bar with a skip tooth chain on it temporarily for felling a couple big trees. I want to make sure the oil pump is on max output for the longer bar and chain. I see there is an adjustment screw with a little line on it, and in the casting, the numbers 1, 2, 3, & 4. Do you just turn that screw so the little plastic dash points to 4 for max bar oil output?
funny this vid came up!! i picked up a 630 a couple weeks ago and i'm going to run through it and maybe do a mild port. now i know where to get some seals and stuff for it!! Tinman strikes again!! thanks buddy
Dad has the same saw, 1997 model. Just put a new bar & chain on it & she runs like a top. Now I know what to look out for in the future.
It’s best to Losen the chain after use and not run it very tight and adjust often
Not many seal issues with doing this
I’m wondering if the pto side bearing is going out. My thought is that the tension from the bar and chain is enough to open up and let some air in
I have a 61 husqvarna and the oil just spills out where the bar meets the case. How can i fix it
Clean the little oil entry hole in your bar. Or...drill it slightly bigger.
These plug with sawdust and oil cant go into the bar.
Clean the oil hole in the bar. They plug with sawdust and prevent oil from entering the bar where it belongs.
Put a cap with a tube onto the brake cleaner, then you can spray it directly onto the seal.
Great trick btw, learned it not too long ago.
Nice. Prolapsed oil seal....Well put. I like 'mung' too. How did that saw run as well as it did? I've seen a lot of high hours saws that have issues like this, or have just inhaled stuff past the seals (both sides, Stihls seem to like to do the generator side) and then borked the bearings and even blown the big end. Got some nice blue big end eyes on some MS362 cranks - there's a vid on the channel somewhere. Even seen an 026 shed the entire (steel) cage through the transfers and out the Zorst and only die when half a ball got embedded vertically in the piston top in the squish band and locked it up. Half a ball. Looked like it had been cut deliberately. Sometimes life hands you stuff you would never make up... Wise to sort a bottom end properly before putting a saw to working for its living and especially wise before adding power.
Awesome! This video shows me where to look on my 268 non XP. It does the same thing. Thanks Tinman!
Been stressing about an air leak on my farmertec 372 for like a month, now I know where to look!
Nice to see another build on a 268. Can't wait. TC Mahalo Tinman🤙🤙🤙
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Tinman. My 2003 husky 350 died so I bought a Meteor kit for it. I was wondering how to check for air leaks and now I know, thanks. I think I will also have a closer look at the crank seals while it's apart. Thanks again you are a great teacher
Nice to see these older Huskies, love my 266
could you seal that crank case plate up with Silicon to keep the debree out? got to be a way to make a thin rubber gasket or something to seal that.
That was great info ya the o ring was roached and Moore then likely the Bering have gotten over heated and only makes sense when you rebuild a saw go through it thoroughly or it comes back messed up .good info👍👍👍👍😎
Bedankt
Thankyou for your support!!
Making me want to get one of my project 266's onto my channel! Good to see the projects coming thick and fast!
How come you can stall a saw with beake clean, I use it as strating fluid. Thats like the most flammable stuff I know. Well different brands I suppose. Take care Tinman and thanx for the videos
I would think that it upsets the air to fuel mixture ratio and floods out the motor.
It makes the saw too rich so it chokes it out.
It really is the same as pulling a choke on a running saw.
I have a 262xp idles at the speed this saw is running. I can not slow the idle down. I took the top end and carb of another saw and installed it, it does the same thing. I'm going to have to try this. I'm pretty sure I have seal leaking. I replaced the top end on the saw because of low compression and scored piston. I pretty sure it is idling fast because of a leak. If I don't fix it, I'm pretty sure I will burn this top end up too.
Can't find him on ebay, thanks for your time and videos tinman
Good info. Thanks for the great content. Looking forward to diving into one of my old Homelites to get familiar with those.
What causes excessive oil coming out
Never had a 266 but 268 an 272 we did in the day.
Do you have a cage bearing or can you make a flat plate to protect the bearing? Thanks for the info and great video. Take care
The outside of the bearing is supposed to be sealed from the devise by the crankseal but when they fail the dirt gets in..
I actually have a couple 268s in my saw collection. I might have to pull them out and get them running.
I have a 242xp my pops gave me... is that a good saw??
I cant get it to start... its got compression, spark at the plug, and a mist of fuel makes it in cylinder.... it should fire up.... any other ideas??
Thank you
What is the purpose of pulling the starter rope part way out, when shutting the saw off?
To avoid it yanking the rope
I would be very interested in a port video on this saw I have the same open port 268 and want to port it myself. Thank you tinman God bless you and your family
great video, you and buckin are good people
Thanks!!
Hi Tinman..Iam from South Afrika.All I wanting to kno is it safe and reliable to do a mufler mod to a 272xp stock saw.
I need a wrap handle for a 268.
Would there be any problems with running a little sealant on the outer edge of the oil pump plate?
I've done that but they are really hard to get out after.
I wonder if somebody ran with the chain break on I see that all the time in my shop
On say the 365 what are you starting with on tune? 1.5 on L and 1 on H? I just picked up one that has a new carb on it and it seems to idle a lil low but I havnt put a tach on it runs great so far but a lil hard to restart so I have something not set just right I thought. I havnt had it n any big wood yet
Outstanding teaching, as always 👍
Roy is awsome he sure helped me out
I'm surprised they use an open bearing design at that position. Why not use a sealed bearing?
Because in a 2 stroke the bearings are lubed by the oil in the fuel mix.
The sealed bearing seals are not good enough. The bearings with integrated good seals like the smaller husky (242s and the like) are expensive and you probably can't find the seal part separately so a failed seal is like 100$ in parts.
Do u make custom pipes for a 142 E Husqvarna
Great Video! Is this the same design on a 257 Husky?
Thank You, mike
Hey tin man!! Great content 👌
I love the 268 I have two of them they’re great old saws. My problem is I like OEM parts and it’s getting hard to find a good Husqvarna dealer.
Found this a few months back. Hopefully, it will help find the parts you need.
roy came through quick! thanks!!
Got one of the Holzfarmer g288's new, and it leaked oil like a sieve. F'ing o ring. $7 fix and no leaks.
Where do you get parts for older saws? I’ve looked around and am curious what brands i should be looking for
What a lovely Saw 😉
Wolf creek for parts ?
Yep theyvare good folks over there
what is the different between a blue and a black chain saw coil
Black is usually unlimited, blue is rev limited
Really depends on the era of the saw. On these old 162 chassis saws it doesn't mean anything at all. Later saws like 3 series is where you see blue means limited.
268 ma most fab saw ,peace an love from scotland stu an family.
Great job bud
I’ve had saws brought in that I used pressure washer to clean them 😢😢
for a Husqvarna 335 XPT
What makes a xp series a xp
Xp is Husqvarnas name for a pro saw. Xtra Power.
I have a 346,562,390, all xps
I must have ridiculous luck, I have a 61, two 266's and two 272's and zero issues on any of them.
Nice video!!
Goede vriend 👍😉still not smoking?☕
Stihl cap when working on a Husky? Also looks like a skateboarder bend- you have other interests, or just getting ready for the kid to get fashionable…..analytics ya gotta know!
thanks
Good
Truly amazing how much abuse some engines can take and keep going!
Why do you pull the rope when you kill the saw
Easier on the start assembly when the engine stops and spins backward against the palls
nice!
All the 200 series were well know for weak sealing on the clutch side.
Keren bos 👍👍
Do you live in Melbourne? Can you send your address please?
Comment from me
Your bottom end is dirty
Respond to my email Tinman!
Good