You had much better results than when I first powered up my kiln. I had transposed two wires and promptly let the smoke out of my solid state relay...40 bucks and several days shipping time later I was back in business. Congratulations on the lack of smoke! :-)
Excellent choice of crimpers and tape! I've used both for over 25 years with no issues and I must say that those style crimpers are the very best. I've never had any issues with crimped connections since I started using those Klein crimpers.
In a purely resistive circuit like this Ohm's Law remains simple with alternating current. So you done good with your calculations. AC gets more complicated with reactive loads though.
A Thermocouple is a sensor used to measure temperature. Thermocouples consist of two wire legs made from different metals. The wires legs are welded together at one end, creating a junction. This junction is where the temperature is measured. When the junction experiences a change in temperature, a voltage is created.
Hey Paul. I just use the heat shrink from Menards (not sponsored), I think it is Rayburn (not sponsored). Haven't had any problems with it on the charge connectors or battery wires on my old Allis Chalmers (not sponsored). Think my Napa (not sponsored) battery is junk though. :)
Loved the wild things reference. Dont worry the manual is over rated ive been living in korea for a year by looking at the pictures and guessing and havent died yet... looks great paul, looking forward to seeing what comes out of the pizza oven 9000!
I remember, from high school, our instructor tested a light bulb which only read a few Ohm's across the leads. He turned on the bulb with a amp meter in series and another meter showing the voltage. He was able to show the actual resistance of the light bulb is greater when hot. Which brings me to my point. What is the wiring like of the commercial unit that you have. If the heating element is the same as the one in the commercial unit then why not see if it is in parallel or series.
Parallel is better but your would have amperage problem (assuming both elements have R = 8.6) you would have an over all R of 4.3...which equals letting the smoke out immediately when you hit start.
If you used 1 element at 27 amps connected it through a 30-40 amp contactor and controlled the contactor with the controller you could have saved some effort and gotten a quicker heat up.
Thermocouples change resistance with heat, no current induced (although IR induced current would be awesome...) The thermometer sends some known amount of current and measures the voltage drop across the thermocouple junction which consists of 2 different metals. Interesting technology, I recommend a deep dive on Wikipedia. EEVblog also has some video explaining how they work I think. You can basically build your own thermocouple if you had the exact alloys and calibrate it with publicly available data. Cool, huh?
It seem like your elements are very thick and longer, compared to the Jeff, the Veg Oil Guy's electric furnace. Being cheap, I went with the size kanthal wire he used. My coils are way shorter and less beefy than yours. I'm guessing this will translate to a shorter working life? FWIW, with my calculations, I'm going with two 120 volt / 20 amp circuit. My plan is go with the InkBird PID controller with SSR-40D DA relays, which seems tiny compared to your Orton controller.
Anything that works! I'm not sure about lifespan, but my elements and controller are off the shelf pottery kiln parts. It's safe to say they are a bit over built, probably far more than necessary. I have no need to hit 2400f for hours!
@@PaulsGarage I really should stop procrastinating by watching your videos, and instead go and work on my own furnace/kiln... Oh well... BTW, is there some purpose served by the metal case that I'm missing? I can see for a commercial build wanting to have the strength to stand up to transport and wear-and-tear. But what I'm trying to get by with is just to use a perlite concrete shell. If it starts breaking down, I'll then add Aluminum flashing or ceramic tile.
Thomas & Betts WT111M Plier Type Crimping Tool The original crimper; Klein and others copied it after the patent expired, 30 years ago T&B was all you could get. Also FWIW you are also crimping wrong the point goes away from the split.
Humm if.... You cut your amp in half with a second element in serie, so you cut your watt in half too! Less watt equal less heat! You can simply take only one element it will be the same power no??
Yeah definitely. It's a *bit* overpowered, but to be honest I also bought that one to use for a large electric kiln I already had, it just so happened to be the one I used for this build. I now have one controller, and I can move it around to whatever kiln/oven I'm using at the time
You’re a funny man, you can make anything worth watching. Actually, the explanation about the resistance on the 2 coils was a good one. The controller is 240v, but they send it with a 120v cord? Can you run 240v on that style plug and cord? I thought all 220-240v ran on the larger plugs and wires like you put on it...
There is a whole collection of NEMA 220-240 V plug styles including 15, 20, 30, and 50 amps. You may note the 220-240 V styles won't fit 110-125 V styles.
You had much better results than when I first powered up my kiln. I had transposed two wires and promptly let the smoke out of my solid state relay...40 bucks and several days shipping time later I was back in business. Congratulations on the lack of smoke! :-)
Yikes! That wouldnt be fun. At least relays are replaceable
Excellent choice of crimpers and tape! I've used both for over 25 years with no issues and I must say that those style crimpers are the very best. I've never had any issues with crimped connections since I started using those Klein crimpers.
Whenever I need a good laugh I just watch you and your puns. Thanks for brightening up my days!
Your fire drawing looked pretty good. It's like you've seen lots of things burst into flames so it's engraved in your memory :D
You might be onto something 🤔🔥
I see you're an AvE fan. Excellent 🙂
In a purely resistive circuit like this Ohm's Law remains simple with alternating current. So you done good with your calculations. AC gets more complicated with reactive loads though.
I’m so glad I found this channel 😂 I love it
5:40 venting the frustrations of too many years in appliance repair??
If I was in marketing management at Orton, I'd give you a sponsorship!
Nice job Sparky 🔌
The thermocoupler works on the idea of a wheatstone bridge, the controllers sends a small voltage and reads the signal. Check them out on Wikipedia
A Thermocouple is a sensor used to measure temperature. Thermocouples consist of two wire legs made from different metals. The wires legs are welded together at one end, creating a junction. This junction is where the temperature is measured. When the junction experiences a change in temperature, a voltage is created.
Dear Paul thank you for this video. It was quite a learning.
I want to ask you about power consumption. Does this electric kiln use lots of power
Hey Paul. I just use the heat shrink from Menards (not sponsored), I think it is Rayburn (not sponsored). Haven't had any problems with it on the charge connectors or battery wires on my old Allis Chalmers (not sponsored). Think my Napa (not sponsored) battery is junk though. :)
Loved the wild things reference. Dont worry the manual is over rated ive been living in korea for a year by looking at the pictures and guessing and havent died yet... looks great paul, looking forward to seeing what comes out of the pizza oven 9000!
the angry pixies condominium idea tickled me greatly.
Are the elements dangerous to touch when using (ie. high voltage) or is a transformer used
I remember, from high school, our instructor tested a light bulb which only read a few Ohm's across the leads.
He turned on the bulb with a amp meter in series and another meter showing the voltage. He was able to show the actual resistance of the light bulb is greater when hot.
Which brings me to my point. What is the wiring like of the commercial unit that you have. If the heating element is the same as the one in the commercial unit then why not see if it is in parallel or series.
I am sorry. I burst into uncontrollable laughter imagining reading the manual in a panic trying to turn it off as it overheats.
Part 5 here!: ua-cam.com/video/G32FBIzni_o/v-deo.html
Klein Cutter/Crimper tool mentioned: amzn.to/3ZAXXVG
I like your channel even more now.
Maxim number 37: There is no 'overkill.' There is only 'open fire' and 'I need to reload.'
50 degrees in wisconsin in january? Are you sure your IR gun is working right?
My firebricks become electrically conductive at 1000 °C. Is this normal? Since this means that current flows through my housing.
Parallel is better but your would have amperage problem (assuming both elements have R = 8.6) you would have an over all R of 4.3...which equals letting the smoke out immediately when you hit start.
If they are in parallel the resistance is 8.6 on each one. they don't affect eachother. Parallel lines never meet.
If you used 1 element at 27 amps connected it through a 30-40 amp contactor and controlled the contactor with the controller you could have saved some effort and gotten a quicker heat up.
I'm not a fan of facebook. Is there anyway I can share some pictures of the deathtrap I've been building this month?
Thermocouples change resistance with heat, no current induced (although IR induced current would be awesome...)
The thermometer sends some known amount of current and measures the voltage drop across the thermocouple junction which consists of 2 different metals.
Interesting technology, I recommend a deep dive on Wikipedia. EEVblog also has some video explaining how they work I think.
You can basically build your own thermocouple if you had the exact alloys and calibrate it with publicly available data. Cool, huh?
I thought the resistance change was measured with a thermistor, not a thermocouple? I could be wrong
It seem like your elements are very thick and longer, compared to the Jeff, the Veg Oil Guy's electric furnace. Being cheap, I went with the size kanthal wire he used. My coils are way shorter and less beefy than yours. I'm guessing this will translate to a shorter working life? FWIW, with my calculations, I'm going with two 120 volt / 20 amp circuit. My plan is go with the InkBird PID controller with SSR-40D DA relays, which seems tiny compared to your Orton controller.
Anything that works! I'm not sure about lifespan, but my elements and controller are off the shelf pottery kiln parts. It's safe to say they are a bit over built, probably far more than necessary. I have no need to hit 2400f for hours!
@@PaulsGarage I really should stop procrastinating by watching your videos, and instead go and work on my own furnace/kiln... Oh well... BTW, is there some purpose served by the metal case that I'm missing? I can see for a commercial build wanting to have the strength to stand up to transport and wear-and-tear. But what I'm trying to get by with is just to use a perlite concrete shell. If it starts breaking down, I'll then add Aluminum flashing or ceramic tile.
There is no overkill. There is only "open fire" and "reloading".
awesome vids
Thanks!
Love your vids as always man
Thanks!
thank u so much guy
Maybe if you had an ESD pad and a strap they'd honor it.
They put the fuse holder inside the box so they must expect end users to open it up. The whole build was pretty much garage quality of that unit.
Lol me when putting anything together.
Paul wonder y u when .have a dryer question
Thomas & Betts WT111M Plier Type Crimping Tool
The original crimper; Klein and others copied it after the patent expired, 30 years ago T&B was all you could get.
Also FWIW you are also crimping wrong the point goes away from the split.
Thanks for the tips! I didnt know I was crimping wrong, I shall rectify that
Humm if....
You cut your amp in half with a second element in serie, so you cut your watt in half too! Less watt equal less heat! You can simply take only one element it will be the same power no??
dang the price of that kiln controller would buy an entire kiln made already lol,,,,,,,,,,,, used one but dang
Yeah definitely. It's a *bit* overpowered, but to be honest I also bought that one to use for a large electric kiln I already had, it just so happened to be the one I used for this build. I now have one controller, and I can move it around to whatever kiln/oven I'm using at the time
You’re a funny man, you can make anything worth watching. Actually, the explanation about the resistance on the 2 coils was a good one.
The controller is 240v, but they send it with a 120v cord? Can you run 240v on that style plug and cord? I thought all 220-240v ran on the larger plugs and wires like you put on it...
There is a whole collection of NEMA 220-240 V plug styles including 15, 20, 30, and 50 amps. You may note the 220-240 V styles won't fit 110-125 V styles.
Kline stuff just works
F****** Celsius🤣🤣🤣
So glad that you are uncomfortable saying amperage... it's a stoopid word. it's CURRENT! :-)
Yes indeed!
Ampacity is a thing though.
@@1pcfred absolutely. Amperage...not so much though
Yes, intensity, electromotive potential and resistance typically measured in ampueres, volts, and ohms.
real life
Is this just fantasy
Thunderbolt and lightning
Very, very frightening me
First!
Sorry someone beat you to it! Second place ain't bad tho
Awww man lol... I had a streak going 😂
Voided