Jeep Wrangler JK Barricade HD Flat Fender Flares Review & Install
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
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Add a beefier set of wheels without worrying about them rubbing the fenders with the Barricade HD Flat Flares. Featuring a thin design, these fenders open up your Wrangler JK's wheel well while adding an aggressive off-road look. These stylish flares provide additional tire coverage while maintaining a clean look.
Your Wrangler will truly receive protection while off-roading or cruising on the street with the Barricade HD Flat Fender Flares. Constructed of cold rolled carbon steel, this 1.5 mm thick plate is made to withstand brush, rocks, and other trail hazards. The textured black powder coating keeps the fenders from rusting or having water stains that have made Barricade's products top quality.
These Barricade HD Flat Fender Flares are designed to be a moderate installation with some drilling required. All required hardware and foam strips are included with these fenders. terrain.jp/2pM...
Item J106610
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Can us Wrangler JL owners hope to receive a similar installation video for these Barricade HD Flat Fenders in the future? I enjoy watching these videos as a detailed walk through while I perform my upgrades, and I'm looking to install the front and rear sets on my Wrangler JL.
@@eddiec3003 same,I just got mine today,no gasket included now.Paint is gone on corner of it from bad shipping in box.what kind of paint would cover that?
Hey Jeep fans, I just had the pleasure of installing these Barricade fenders on a good friend's Jeep JK yesterday and I wanted to share a few notes that I thought would be helpful.
First, the instructions that Barricade includes in the box are crap, throw them away and just have this video on standby. They list wrong drill bit sizes, wrong wrench/socket sizes, and it looks like they copied a copy of a copy at their local library with the worst resolution you can imagine for printed pictures.
For the front fenders, bolt them up to mark your last two holes to be drilled but be mindful of the fenders orientation. The fenders very closely follow the body line but if you notice on the last two bolt holes, sometimes where you would make your mark will be too close to the firewall and your big round spacer won't fit even if your drill bit did. To keep from having to make a slotted hole, I tightened three bolts down at the top of the front fenders and while watching the last two holes, pulled the end of the fender DOWN slightly so my marks for the holes aren't too close to the firewall OR the heat insulation that's installed. Then I removed the fender to drill my holes and I used a brand new 3/8" bit in a 1/2" drill to make the drilling less painful and give me a little slack in the holes for alignment.
Now, trimming your fender liners is simple. I used a dremel and removed just enough to make them flush with the wheel wells. Keep in mind the fender liner is only held on by 3 bolts now and with the OEM fender gone, you'll need some large washers to give those tiny bolts more surface area. Also, the top of the fender liner will be nice and snug when installed but the backside running alongside your firewall will not have any bolts in it so it'll be quite loose. This would drive me crazy if they made noise but then again, Jeeps are noisy aren't they? Anyway it's free to do and will be good enough until you get upgraded fender liners! Once you tighten your front fenders down you'll notice just how rigid they are! As a TJ owner I am jealous.
NOW onto the rears which have most of you guys cussing. You know the 5 holes you drill on either side for riv nuts? I had zero trouble by using a 13/32" drill bit and NOT wallowing the hole out at all. The riv nuts fit right in, and for the tool supplied by Barricade, I used a battery powered impact driver on it. If you try to crush the riv nuts by hand, may god have mercy on your soul. If you know a friend or neighbor with an impact (I used a 1/4" hex driver that was plenty strong) then this will save you time. I ran all 10 down until I noticed the socket beginning to turn slower, then I reversed the impact and removed the tool to check the nut. You can see just how "crushed" it is and I ran all of them down ALMOST as far as they would go. Be careful, take your time and if you have to stop and remove the tool a few times to check, do it. Again, I had zero issues with this and was really happy with how they turned out. Lining up all the bolts into the rear fenders required one of us to sort of pull the fender one way or another until we got all the bolts started and then we tightened them down.
ONE MORE THING: make sure you get as much foam insulation away from your fender holes as you can! A little bit of foam in your bolt threads will completely stop you from getting your bolts started and you do not want to cross thread one!
Anyway, besides an unexpected trip to the store for some large fender washers, we had no hangups and the fenders look great. Best of all, you can set your tools and beer on them while you work! Good luck and take your time!
I like the JOOP sticker!
Can this be used on roads
In my opinion I think you have more room with this fenders but I believe the factory fenders have better looking.
Are these fenders flares strong enough to stand on? Mainly the rear to help access roof rack. Thanks
No def not
@@ChristianWTR1 thanks for the info.
@@ChristianWTR1 only 150lbs, but still not going to stand on um.
I like to watch when the girl is working
My guy this is a jeep page
🤤