I built this as you instructed and it came out great. Thank you. For the side braces on the legs I used 2x4 with through bolts. I found a small electric hoist fits perfectly between the gantry beams. I put two stacks of 2x4 pieces on top of the gantry perpendicular to the beams to support the hoist (90 degrees to what you did). Then I bridged these supports with a length of 1.5 inch steel box that holds the winch. It added some cost but it allows you to use the winch remote to get out from under the load while lifting for safety.
4x4s often come from the center of the tree which isn't stable. They make plywood peeling off the veneer and then the leftover part in the center becomes the 4x4. If you laminate two 2xs together it will be a lot more stable.
@@OctogonOxygen024816 No, as far a I know, plywood isn't made into 4x4s, what he is saying is that the core of tree is peeled off into plywood veneers until 4x4s can be made of the core. The core isn't as stable as 2×4s, so laminating 2x4s is more stable than a 4x4.
Since what krt said is generally incorrect. It really didn't matter. But if someone does decide to use two 2xs to replace the 4x4. Make sure the curvature of the growth rings are glue back to back (ie facing in the opposite directions)
I built this using your design and it works great. It was easy and I built it for under $200. I have used to to lift out an engine out of my boat. Thanks for posting.
We just used long wood screws to hold the 2 x 4 on top of the 2 x 10. All the pressure is downward, so no bolts were needed. We used a 3/4 inch inside diameter pipe that the Harbor Freight chain hoist hung on.
Looks good. As a Chartered Structural Engineer in the UK I can see some fixing and edge distance issues in some areas but overall it looks great. It's hardly as if you're lifting a bus - or at least not for too long nor on a regular basis ;-) Always impressed with your work Frank; you're a talented chap. I thoroughly enjoy watching and listening; hyptnotic and relaxing and yet content rich and inspirational - you've a great style and manner. Thank you for sharing.
Even your most boring video to date is still utterly fascinating! Don't know if I've mentioned lately that you are awesome...but you are awesome! Thank you again for sharing!
+frank howarth Straighten Uprights, get spray bottle full of water and baking soda (shake well), spray uprights before you close the workshop for the night, in the morning get ratchet straps (one each leg) pull together to straighten, slowly over a few days ( if needed) leave and let dry, remove straps after a few weeks. Job Done. If you choose to do this, it will work and more than likely never twist like that again Cheers Peter P.S Really look forward to watching your videos, thanks for all the hard work you put in.
That thing is colossal! It looks like a medieval siege engine. It's absolutely brilliant and I'll be making one for myself next weekend. For mine, I'll probably opt for a 4x6 beam at top and large 3/4" plywood gussets instead of diagonal braces between the top beam and supporting posts. For the bottom feet, I'll probably run braces all the way up to the top beam and sandwich them with large plywood gussets. I need to swap some engines on a dirt driveway, so there will be a lot of structural flexing as I move stuff around. Thanks for the great idea!
Thanks Frank! I already built mine but it is almost identical to yours in construction. The only differences are that I laminated the upright posts and made the middle section , where the iron pipe goes thru, able to slide some both left and right just in case I need to pick something up off center. Not much but maybe a foot each way. Really appreciate you doing this video, Thanks!
Having 4X4s is a trade off. They're light enough, but tend to twist as they dry out and age, especially over 6 feet. 6X6s won't twist, but they're too heavy to be of any use in a manually transportable crane. I think you made the right choice. Thanks for the video!
When you mentioned that you put the wheels and that its important to lock them, I immediately pictured the two legs splitting apart by rolling out from each other. Like it was doing the splits. But I'm sure you know of its safe capacities by now. I fix would be to tie the legs together horizontally, but it would probably get in the way a lot.
I'm no expert but if I made a crane like that I'd also have removable temporary brace that would support and tie the legs together for extra safety (where it allows) on one side when lifting very heavy items. It would fit over the top of the horizontal base support and drop into notches. That way you could reverse the vehicle in from one side, because it would be braced on the other side. It may help prevent the spread of the legs under load, even with the castors locked. Still, I'm sure your gantry construction is more than enough to support the weights required to be shifted.
+MarkleZephire By the way Frank, I envy your impressive set up. I would be thrilled to wake up every morning and wonder what project I would be working on today. My only problem is that I usually get bored after a few years and want to move onto different things. Still I think the workshop space you have is somewhat universal. I've been a long time subscriber, thank you for sharing your videos.
It is great to see an over view of the construction for this. I can remember back when you built this, and seeing how much you have used it there is no denying it's benefits.
Build a trolley for the chainfall, then you can just slide it to one side. You could add a chain driven rack-n-pinion drive to move the trolley back and forth.
Frank, your work and how you go about it, greatly exemplify the great utility of rigor, patience and method. It's impressive and empowering! Plan, increment and persist.
Great video Frank. To stop the bar sliding out for the block and tackle. you could drill a hole each side through the bar and use tow hitch pins, they are quick release so easily removed.
You really needed that thing with the offset between the ground outside and your shop floor especially with the heavy equipment you've moved into your shop.. I looks very hand, thanks for the video.
+Stanton Taylor 6 wheels is a pain in the ass - it's never level. This is typically how gantries are built - wood or metal. There's plenty of lateral strength, but overall the bracing transfers the load to the wheel base.
+Joel Crawford There would be a couple ways around the difficulty moving. Planing the mounting plate a tiny bit thinner so it's the middle wheels that are off the ground unless there is enough weight to flex the gantry might work. But at that point it would probably be easier to just chock under the verticals with a block of wood when trying to lift something that heavy.
Benjamin Shaw , I agree. Mount the center wheels just a tad high. They'll engage with flex. But again, frank howarth hasn't had a problem or he would have already done something like this.
I agree. You need to put the load of the legs onto center wheels based on the way the crane is currently built. Right now the weight of the load is placing all the weight onto two bolts on each side from the legs to the feet, placing a shear force onto the bolts. This shear force is where bolts tend to fail. Same for the load at the gantry to the legs. The load needs to be distributed onto the legs and then onto the feet, not the bolts. The gantry needs to sit on the legs and the legs need to sit on the feet.
nice design, nice job! a lot cheaper than steel, and easy enough for people who would rather build one out of wood. I'm currently working on a small timber frame and have been thinking about putting it on casters.
I'm a little surprised that no one else commented on that pipe, that is not structural steel. I know it hasn't failed yet just would worry with the loads you lifted there you could end up crushed. I really like the frame overall and the cost invested such a small amount for proper steel pin. never the less keep up the great work!
Made a similar one but a good bit smaller 3/4 years ago mostly out of 2x4’s I’ve lifted small block chevys and a few other good sized engines. Heaviest thing was my welding table top around 600-750lbs. My shop isn’t huge so it takes up a lot of space, but I work between it. It’s the kind of tool I don’t think I could go without after having one
If I may offer a suggestion, maybe adding a bag at the top to catch the slack chain. We had them in a factory I worked at and it was nicer than having all that chain in the way. Thats a nice looking hoist.
Frank, it looks great. Not only that, I'd say it could have another function, too. It looks like half of a trebuchet. If you ever have to attack a medieval castle, you've got a great start on building a fine looking siege engine. Cheers! : D
Regarding the pipe, you could drill a hole through each end of the pipe and put a 1/4-20 bolt through it with a locking nut, or lock washer and nut. Always enjoy your videos.
I've been puzzling about how to make and use something like this for awhile so am grateful to see this. Will be setting up a shop in the next few years and will need to load, unload, lift heavy things. Can any of the structural engineers tell us the lift limit of a structure like this?
Just like building a house, the weight should be transferred through a point load all the way to the footing. In this case, it would help if a wheel was placed directly under the vertical legs. I'm sure someone else may have said this already. Either way, I just found your channel today and it's already one of my favorites. Keep up the awesome work.
+BigWonka 6 wheels is a pain in the ass - it's never level. This is typically how gantries are built - wood or metal. There's plenty of lateral strength, but overall the bracing transfers the load to the wheel base.
+Joel Crawford Not being level on all wheels makes sense. I was just saying that the load should be carried directly to the ground. I'd at least change the two beams up top to two 2x10's and the pieces down low to at least 2x8's instead of 2x6's. But that's just me. I'd rather over-build it than have it fail. Not that it'll ever fail, but still.
+frank howarth You're welcome. I really like your editing style. It's pretty unique and you make some really interesting things. I just watched your two lawn chair builds and now want a set of my own haha
Great build! I like the idea of supporting the load under the vertical beams, but instead of using two more casters just use the posts themselves. The posts would only need to be suspended off the floor by the four casters about an 1/8" allowance for flexing. This would still facilitate the use of a cross-chain mentioned earlier for added strength, but because the chain would be very near the ground it would pose no problem if you had to drive over it to move your truck or trailer while the hoist is under a load.
A big bicycle hook could be screwed to a 2x4. They make big ones that have a rubber coating. I need one of these with off road wheels to move my big logs I mill up. The videos are still awesome!
+Frank Howarth, thanks for the video! Just found your channel while pondering how to deal with lifting machinery around in a new shop that I'm building. I like your concept a lot and I think I even already have the exact chain hoist that you're using. Simple and effective. Nice.
You mentioned you might like to have a hook so you can hold your hoist chains out of the way and my eye was drawn to the heavy duty lifting strap hanging on the gantry leg. If you were to make an E shaped clip out of some scrap wood, you could slide that clip over one loop of the lifting strap, draw the chains with one hand inside the circle of the strap, and with your other hand, clip the opposite side of the E down onto the other loop. A quick easy way to get those chains out of your way while using minimal time and material
It would help the strength of the crane a great deal by mounting another set of casters directly under the vertical posts. It would make it a whole lot safer when lifting heavy loads.
A good understandable video. Good design. I built one very much like that except no wheels. Part of mine was nailed and part bolted so it could be taken down and moved to other locations.
I've been wondering about this lift since I saw it a while back in a video. Thanks for sharing this with us. I love how simple it is, yet highly functional and useful at the same time.
I'm all for wood, I would have made the braces out of heavy plywood to convert the whole thing into a truss with better load distribution, some of those bolts look like they would blow out eventually. Basically this is something that should have been welded, while the base for the CNC should have been made of wood. I think it is great you have this up though, there isn't enough stuff on moving tools and since I got my modest engine crane and lift, I don't know how I lived without them. I once did a seminar in a timber framing shop, and the guy had a bridge crane that ran on x rails with y bridge and electric hoists, absolutely amazing. He had a lot of weird wood machinery and was able to park it at a zero clearance yard area of the shop, then he could pluck machines out when he needed to use them, and of course move large timbers. No uber shop should ever be without one.
Great video as always! I wonder if some of the twisting isn't exacerbated by the asymmetric bracing at the top. It might be worthwhile to add a couple more braces there so each post has weight transferred evenly on either side of itself.
Hey, I was thinking about how to secure the chain up out of the way. The simplest I've come up with was a thin rope with a noose tied at the end, a pulley hung from the top corner bolt and a cleat within reach on the upright. (It could be glued or strapped on to avoid more drilling) Wrap the noose around the chain bundle, pull on the rope and cleat it off! When you need the crane just release the rope and loosen the noose then pull the empty noose back up out of the way. You might need a weight on the noose end to ensure it drops back down when you want to use it again.
f you could make something strong enough to support your truck, you could have something be flush with the outside ground and then be able to back your truck in beneath the crane for easy unloading. Thanks for the videos!
It seems like getting it out of the shop to load/unload from the truck would be a major pain. What about an I beam that extended from inside the shop to outside over the loading area. Then a dolly on said beam the chain hoist could move back and forth on. Hoist whatever item out of the truck, remove truck, slide into the shop, then lower. A limiting factor would be the height of said beam over the ground outside.
I'd probably look into adding some trailer jacks near each wheel as I don't know that I would really trust those wheel locks over the long term (since they're just simple friction locks) and you still have the swivel that isn't locked. That way you'd have a solid 4 point connection to the ground that won't be moving without some very significant forces pushing or trying to tip it. It would increase the time it takes to hoist something if you use cheaper manual jacks, but there are electric ones that look like they can be wired in series so it's just a button for up and one for down. I also wonder if using 4x6 posts for the uprights would provide further stability. It may be overkill however since I'm not a structural engineer either and am just speculating.
Hi Frank When building a mast boat builders glue two or four pieces together with the grain in different direction this helps to make it strong and stop it twisting , it seems to work , love your videos, would watch you talk about paint drying , G
:11 Awesome Dewalt radial arm saw in the the background. I have the same one, I think a 24 inch cross cut with a 16 inch blade. Those saws have a great story and they are very well made. Would love a video on yours. Have a good one!!
Run 3/4 gas pipe on top of the crane and then put wheels on your chain hoist to create a trolley so you can move it left to right. To keep the hoist cart from rolling simply create a piece that fits in between the wheels so they can't move left or right. The gas pipe will add to the strength and the trolley will help you keep the chain out of your face. Also come up with a leg that hits the ground directly under the 4x4 to give more strength straight to the ground.
Not bad. As long as one pays enough attention to stop before going too far on the weight lifted, it'll get most jobs done. If fact, it's a pretty hefty structure, so that would include a lot of jobs.
There seems to be a pretty decent span between the casters on each side. While the diagonals on each side provide lateral stability, they probably don't help distribute the downward force across the length of the bottom to the existing casters sufficiently. Lifting something extra heavy could cause a failure under those uprights. By adding a swivel caster directly under the two uprights would eliminate that potential problem
I'm going to need something similar though not quite as big to just lift machines enough to fit wheels under them like for example, a cabinet saw. I could tip it, but I'd rather lift straight up. Anyway, a smaller version without wheels will probably do and I can use an inexpensive come along. Once it's done being used I can saw the pieces down and reuse for something else.. Thanks for the ideas though..
Excellent 1" tube above the 2x10s lots of strength laterally. the 4x4s perfect for the verticals. I built a 20x20 carport used 4x4s on one end and in center aupporting engineered 2x16s for beams, with storage uptop 4x4s were passed during bldg inspec. Treated SYP Just for info.
Not bad at all.I've seen similar in PM Shopnotes. A possibility is to put the block that holds the chainfall on trucks. Allows for different positions. I think I would prefer to use 6X6 or laminated for the posts. The 4X4 should be ok but I'm a little paranoid.
Hi from France ! I think you maybe could increase the design by adding 1 more wheel under the middle of each foot, to decrease the flexibility constraint on the horizontal bottom parts, as it's there that all the weight is pushing down... Just my two cents...
using a strap with metal rivets in it and a bolt or screw (really any straight metal protrusion) would be able to hold the chain off to the side with out having to worry about the chain coming lose if the crane gets jostled around, it would also take up less space on the inside area of the crane
I built this as you instructed and it came out great. Thank you. For the side braces on the legs I used 2x4 with through bolts.
I found a small electric hoist fits perfectly between the gantry beams. I put two stacks of 2x4 pieces on top of the gantry perpendicular to the beams to support the hoist (90 degrees to what you did). Then I bridged these supports with a length of 1.5 inch steel box that holds the winch. It added some cost but it allows you to use the winch remote to get out from under the load while lifting for safety.
4x4s often come from the center of the tree which isn't stable. They make plywood peeling off the veneer and then the leftover part in the center becomes the 4x4. If you laminate two 2xs together it will be a lot more stable.
+krtwood That is a really good point.
So 2 laminated 2x2's are more effective than a 4x4 plywood?
@@OctogonOxygen024816 No, as far a I know, plywood isn't made into 4x4s, what he is saying is that the core of tree is peeled off into plywood veneers until 4x4s can be made of the core. The core isn't as stable as 2×4s, so laminating 2x4s is more stable than a 4x4.
Since what krt said is generally incorrect. It really didn't matter. But if someone does decide to use two 2xs to replace the 4x4. Make sure the curvature of the growth rings are glue back to back (ie facing in the opposite directions)
@@crisvega7588 Well not really plywood, but a similar process - Glulam
I built this using your design and it works great. It was easy and I built it for under $200. I have used to to lift out
an engine out of my boat. Thanks for posting.
Did You make it with woodprix instructions?
Thanks Frank for the video. My son and I just used your video and built the gantry crane to lift a 700 lb drill press off the pallet.
+Len Roberts awesome
Len Roberts Can you tell me how the 2x4s that hold the metal bar at the top are attached to the 2x10s? Thanks
We just used long wood screws to hold the 2 x 4 on top of the 2 x 10. All the pressure is downward, so no bolts were needed. We used a 3/4 inch inside diameter pipe that the Harbor Freight chain hoist hung on.
Len Roberts Thanks for your reply....I understand now....gonna start building it soon
Looks good. As a Chartered Structural Engineer in the UK I can see some fixing and edge distance issues in some areas but overall it looks great. It's hardly as if you're lifting a bus - or at least not for too long nor on a regular basis ;-) Always impressed with your work Frank; you're a talented chap. I thoroughly enjoy watching and listening; hyptnotic and relaxing and yet content rich and inspirational - you've a great style and manner. Thank you for sharing.
+Andrew Cartlidge ha ha, thanks. I'm always saying to my self "I'm not launching the space shuttle off this"
+frank howarth And it stands up when finished with, rather than toppling over and exploding. Absolute result :D
Even your most boring video to date is still utterly fascinating! Don't know if I've mentioned lately that you are awesome...but you are awesome! Thank you again for sharing!
+frollard Thanks
+frank howarth Straighten Uprights, get spray bottle full of water and baking soda (shake well), spray uprights before you close the workshop for the night, in the morning get ratchet straps (one each leg) pull together to straighten, slowly over a few days ( if needed) leave and let dry, remove straps after a few weeks. Job Done. If you choose to do this, it will work and more than likely never twist like that again Cheers Peter
P.S Really look forward to watching your videos, thanks for all the hard work you put in.
That thing is colossal! It looks like a medieval siege engine. It's absolutely brilliant and I'll be making one for myself next weekend.
For mine, I'll probably opt for a 4x6 beam at top and large 3/4" plywood gussets instead of diagonal braces between the top beam and supporting posts. For the bottom feet, I'll probably run braces all the way up to the top beam and sandwich them with large plywood gussets. I need to swap some engines on a dirt driveway, so there will be a lot of structural flexing as I move stuff around.
Thanks for the great idea!
It's great to have a strong friend like this crane... They never get tired and they don't complain!
They whine a little when you really push them lol
Thanks Frank! I already built mine but it is almost identical to yours in construction. The only differences are that I laminated the upright posts and made the middle section , where the iron pipe goes thru, able to slide some both left and right just in case I need to pick something up off center. Not much but maybe a foot each way. Really appreciate you doing this video, Thanks!
Having 4X4s is a trade off. They're light enough, but tend to twist as they dry out and age, especially over 6 feet. 6X6s won't twist, but they're too heavy to be of any use in a manually transportable crane. I think you made the right choice. Thanks for the video!
+Thomas Bird It has been mentioned to laminate 2 or 3 2x4 together. This would be the best of both.
Great build. Very helpful. I'm glad you lifted some heavy machines. I'm going to make one similar to lift some machines. Thanks Tony
When you mentioned that you put the wheels and that its important to lock them, I immediately pictured the two legs splitting apart by rolling out from each other. Like it was doing the splits. But I'm sure you know of its safe capacities by now. I fix would be to tie the legs together horizontally, but it would probably get in the way a lot.
It never ceases to amaze me how much creative talent is in small shops everywhere. Well done!
I'm no expert but if I made a crane like that I'd also have removable temporary brace that would support and tie the legs together for extra safety (where it allows) on one side when lifting very heavy items. It would fit over the top of the horizontal base support and drop into notches. That way you could reverse the vehicle in from one side, because it would be braced on the other side. It may help prevent the spread of the legs under load, even with the castors locked. Still, I'm sure your gantry construction is more than enough to support the weights required to be shifted.
+MarkleZephire By the way Frank, I envy your impressive set up. I would be thrilled to wake up every morning and wonder what project I would be working on today. My only problem is that I usually get bored after a few years and want to move onto different things. Still I think the workshop space you have is somewhat universal. I've been a long time subscriber, thank you for sharing your videos.
+MarkleZephire I had not thought of that. I like the idea of having support down at the base.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products that's a much better idea I think.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products this sounds alot simpler but it seems you would then lose the support in the case it wanted to buckle inward
***** Yeah, I think the physics support that, especially on an flat surface.
It is great to see an over view of the construction for this. I can remember back when you built this, and seeing how much you have used it there is no denying it's benefits.
Build a trolley for the chainfall, then you can just slide it to one side. You could add a chain driven rack-n-pinion drive to move the trolley back and forth.
Great idea
Frank, your work and how you go about it, greatly exemplify the great utility of rigor, patience and method. It's impressive and empowering! Plan, increment and persist.
Great video Frank. To stop the bar sliding out for the block and tackle. you could drill a hole each side through the bar and use tow hitch pins, they are quick release so easily removed.
Frank, this video is in Popular Mechanics newsletter. Congrats!!
You really needed that thing with the offset between the ground outside and your shop floor especially with the heavy equipment you've moved into your shop.. I looks very hand, thanks for the video.
Nice work! Very good engineering. You pointed out that bolts, not screws need to be used - very important point.
I really admire the excellence that you bring to your projects and videos. They are a joy to watch.
Obviously this has not been a problem, but I'd add another pair of wheels directly below the posts to transfer the weight directly to the ground.
+Stanton Taylor 6 wheels is a pain in the ass - it's never level. This is typically how gantries are built - wood or metal. There's plenty of lateral strength, but overall the bracing transfers the load to the wheel base.
+Joel Crawford There would be a couple ways around the difficulty moving. Planing the mounting plate a tiny bit thinner so it's the middle wheels that are off the ground unless there is enough weight to flex the gantry might work. But at that point it would probably be easier to just chock under the verticals with a block of wood when trying to lift something that heavy.
Benjamin Shaw , I agree. Mount the center wheels just a tad high. They'll engage with flex. But again, frank howarth hasn't had a problem or he would have already done something like this.
I agree. You need to put the load of the legs onto center wheels based on the way the crane is currently built. Right now the weight of the load is placing all the weight onto two bolts on each side from the legs to the feet, placing a shear force onto the bolts. This shear force is where bolts tend to fail. Same for the load at the gantry to the legs. The load needs to be distributed onto the legs and then onto the feet, not the bolts. The gantry needs to sit on the legs and the legs need to sit on the feet.
Very nicely done - retired woodworker and structural engineer
nice design, nice job!
a lot cheaper than steel, and easy enough for people who would rather build one out of wood.
I'm currently working on a small timber frame and have been thinking about putting it on casters.
A very thorough explanation of your original build Frank.
Cheers
Mike
I'm a little surprised that no one else commented on that pipe, that is not structural steel. I know it hasn't failed yet just would worry with the loads you lifted there you could end up crushed. I really like the frame overall and the cost invested such a small amount for proper steel pin. never the less keep up the great work!
Made a similar one but a good bit smaller 3/4 years ago mostly out of 2x4’s I’ve lifted small block chevys and a few other good sized engines. Heaviest thing was my welding table top around 600-750lbs. My shop isn’t huge so it takes up a lot of space, but I work between it. It’s the kind of tool I don’t think I could go without after having one
Your animations are amazing. Thanks for all of your hard work.
I could've sworn I remembered a video where you built the gantry. I guess I must be going mad.
yeah it felt like a déjà-vu
+Dave Starr I was thinking the exact same thing.
+Dave Starr you're not the only one. have we all gone mad?
truebluekit - yes
very uplifting in a nice shop highlighting your talents. Congratulations. Andy
If I may offer a suggestion, maybe adding a bag at the top to catch the slack chain. We had them in a factory I worked at and it was nicer than having all that chain in the way. Thats a nice looking hoist.
Frank, it looks great. Not only that, I'd say it could have another function, too. It looks like half of a trebuchet. If you ever have to attack a medieval castle, you've got a great start on building a fine looking siege engine. Cheers! : D
Regarding the pipe, you could drill a hole through each end of the pipe and put a 1/4-20 bolt through it with a locking nut, or lock washer and nut.
Always enjoy your videos.
+Thomas Coughran I like that idea.
+Thomas Coughran like a cotter pin
I've been puzzling about how to make and use something like this for awhile so am grateful to see this. Will be setting up a shop in the next few years and will need to load, unload, lift heavy things. Can any of the structural engineers tell us the lift limit of a structure like this?
Awesome, Frank! When you said it was "screwy", my girlfriend took the opportunity to say to me "Screwy. Just like you.". Thanks, I guess :)
Just like building a house, the weight should be transferred through a point load all the way to the footing. In this case, it would help if a wheel was placed directly under the vertical legs. I'm sure someone else may have said this already. Either way, I just found your channel today and it's already one of my favorites. Keep up the awesome work.
+BigWonka 6 wheels is a pain in the ass - it's never level. This is typically how gantries are built - wood or metal. There's plenty of lateral strength, but overall the bracing transfers the load to the wheel base.
+BigWonka Thanks
+Joel Crawford Not being level on all wheels makes sense. I was just saying that the load should be carried directly to the ground. I'd at least change the two beams up top to two 2x10's and the pieces down low to at least 2x8's instead of 2x6's. But that's just me. I'd rather over-build it than have it fail. Not that it'll ever fail, but still.
+frank howarth You're welcome. I really like your editing style. It's pretty unique and you make some really interesting things. I just watched your two lawn chair builds and now want a set of my own haha
You can merge one side from legs. That would give you more weight limit and strong structure. Good crane by the way.
Your videos are a joy to watch! Thanks for the description of how to make the crane.
Nice animation. Honestly that was just as good as a build video. Great Job!
wonderful assembly animation!
Great explanation with good animations too. if only my shop were big enough to warrant one of these!
Great build! I like the idea of supporting the load under the vertical beams, but instead of using two more casters just use the posts themselves. The posts would only need to be suspended off the floor by the four casters about an 1/8" allowance for flexing. This would still facilitate the use of a cross-chain mentioned earlier for added strength, but because the chain would be very near the ground it would pose no problem if you had to drive over it to move your truck or trailer while the hoist is under a load.
A big bicycle hook could be screwed to a 2x4. They make big ones that have a rubber coating. I need one of these with off road wheels to move my big logs I mill up. The videos are still awesome!
+Dustin Bean I have 2 or 3 of those big rubber coated hooks somewhere but I have not been able to find them.
+Frank Howarth, thanks for the video! Just found your channel while pondering how to deal with lifting machinery around in a new shop that I'm building. I like your concept a lot and I think I even already have the exact chain hoist that you're using. Simple and effective. Nice.
You sir are a true Craftsman - hats off to ya!
You mentioned you might like to have a hook so you can hold your hoist chains out of the way and my eye was drawn to the heavy duty lifting strap hanging on the gantry leg. If you were to make an E shaped clip out of some scrap wood, you could slide that clip over one loop of the lifting strap, draw the chains with one hand inside the circle of the strap, and with your other hand, clip the opposite side of the E down onto the other loop. A quick easy way to get those chains out of your way while using minimal time and material
It would help the strength of the crane a great deal by mounting another set of casters directly under the vertical posts. It would make it a whole lot safer when lifting heavy loads.
A good understandable video. Good design. I built one very much like that except no wheels. Part of mine was nailed and part bolted so it could be taken down and moved to other locations.
One more giant tool for Frank, one more excellent video from Frank. Thanks for sharing !
I've been wondering about this lift since I saw it a while back in a video. Thanks for sharing this with us. I love how simple it is, yet highly functional and useful at the same time.
I'm all for wood, I would have made the braces out of heavy plywood to convert the whole thing into a truss with better load distribution, some of those bolts look like they would blow out eventually.
Basically this is something that should have been welded, while the base for the CNC should have been made of wood.
I think it is great you have this up though, there isn't enough stuff on moving tools and since I got my modest engine crane and lift, I don't know how I lived without them.
I once did a seminar in a timber framing shop, and the guy had a bridge crane that ran on x rails with y bridge and electric hoists, absolutely amazing. He had a lot of weird wood machinery and was able to park it at a zero clearance yard area of the shop, then he could pluck machines out when he needed to use them, and of course move large timbers. No uber shop should ever be without one.
Great video as always! I wonder if some of the twisting isn't exacerbated by the asymmetric bracing at the top. It might be worthwhile to add a couple more braces there so each post has weight transferred evenly on either side of itself.
Hey, I was thinking about how to secure the chain up out of the way. The simplest I've come up with was a thin rope with a noose tied at the end, a pulley hung from the top corner bolt and a cleat within reach on the upright. (It could be glued or strapped on to avoid more drilling)
Wrap the noose around the chain bundle, pull on the rope and cleat it off! When you need the crane just release the rope and loosen the noose then pull the empty noose back up out of the way. You might need a weight on the noose end to ensure it drops back down when you want to use it again.
Love watching your videos, I would love your shop.
I think I would use 4X4 cross bracing rather than 2X4's, that's just me. All in all its amazing.
That's pretty cool. I wish I had the room for something like that!
f you could make something strong enough to support your truck, you could have something be flush with the outside ground and then be able to back your truck in beneath the crane for easy unloading. Thanks for the videos!
Super video, as always Frank. Thank you. Would you consider doing a video to show how you did the brilliant animations?
It seems like getting it out of the shop to load/unload from the truck would be a major pain. What about an I beam that extended from inside the shop to outside over the loading area. Then a dolly on said beam the chain hoist could move back and forth on. Hoist whatever item out of the truck, remove truck, slide into the shop, then lower. A limiting factor would be the height of said beam over the ground outside.
Cool idea. Anything that saves your back and toes is well worth the effort.
Nice Job Frank!
Love it, I've been experimenting and there is a learning curve for sure . I'm glad you explained how the gantry project evolves . Thank you,
Big help around the shop. Very well thought out.
that's awesome, great design. I have a planer and band saw it need to lift, and was going to build one for that reason. Thanks for the ideas.
I'd probably look into adding some trailer jacks near each wheel as I don't know that I would really trust those wheel locks over the long term (since they're just simple friction locks) and you still have the swivel that isn't locked. That way you'd have a solid 4 point connection to the ground that won't be moving without some very significant forces pushing or trying to tip it.
It would increase the time it takes to hoist something if you use cheaper manual jacks, but there are electric ones that look like they can be wired in series so it's just a button for up and one for down.
I also wonder if using 4x6 posts for the uprights would provide further stability. It may be overkill however since I'm not a structural engineer either and am just speculating.
Hi Frank When building a mast boat builders glue two or four pieces together with the grain in different direction this helps to make it strong and stop it twisting , it seems to work , love your videos, would watch you talk about paint drying ,
G
:11 Awesome Dewalt radial arm saw in the the background. I have the same one, I think a 24 inch cross cut with a 16 inch blade. Those saws have a great story and they are very well made. Would love a video on yours. Have a good one!!
Awesome explanation! I really like that gantry, it is really useful if you have a big shop with heavy tools and stuff! Thanks for sharing!
Exactly what I was looking for and nicely explained, thank you
Run 3/4 gas pipe on top of the crane and then put wheels on your chain hoist to create a trolley so you can move it left to right. To keep the hoist cart from rolling simply create a piece that fits in between the wheels so they can't move left or right. The gas pipe will add to the strength and the trolley will help you keep the chain out of your face. Also come up with a leg that hits the ground directly under the 4x4 to give more strength straight to the ground.
Nice - I was always looking for more info on the crane !
Amazing graphics!
Nice job Frank.
Not bad. As long as one pays enough attention to stop before going too far on the weight lifted, it'll get most jobs done. If fact, it's a pretty hefty structure, so that would include a lot of jobs.
Liked the video simply because of your entrance😂 well explained video 👌🏻
very well explained!
I'm always amazed and inspired by your woodworking, but to see the animation that went along with this just blows my mind.
Don't act like we didn't see that pencil drop!
+LimitedWard Are you referring to 4:06? :D
+Ali Salih precisely :D
+LimitedWard So unprofessional. Unsubbing now.
You should label it at the top: "Howarth Cranes 2014 - 2 ton (est.)" Looks really nice, we know it is functional.
What is the heaviest you have lifted with this gantry?
There seems to be a pretty decent span between the casters on each side. While the diagonals on each side provide lateral stability, they probably don't help distribute the downward force across the length of the bottom to the existing casters sufficiently. Lifting something extra heavy could cause a failure under those uprights. By adding a swivel caster directly under the two uprights would eliminate that potential problem
Or possibly some levelling feet? So when moving around it isn't in the way
Thanks for sharing your build! Very well explained...
Great job, I really like your video's
Notch the top block then cap the pipe, and use your yellow strap to hold back the chain.
Pretty cool gantry.
I'm going to build me one of these, thanks for the specs.
Frank as always very educational and entertaining .
Thank you
Do you know how much you have lifted with YOUR crane. Granted, we're not looking for a safety rating here!
I'm going to need something similar though not quite as big to just lift machines enough to fit wheels under them like for example, a cabinet saw. I could tip it, but I'd rather lift straight up. Anyway, a smaller version without wheels will probably do and I can use an inexpensive come along. Once it's done being used I can saw the pieces down and reuse for something else.. Thanks for the ideas though..
Excellent 1" tube above the 2x10s lots of strength laterally. the 4x4s perfect for the verticals. I built a 20x20 carport used 4x4s on one end and in center aupporting engineered 2x16s for beams, with storage uptop 4x4s were passed during bldg inspec. Treated SYP Just for info.
Super Cool video as usual. Can put a magnet for the chain.
Las animaciones de tus vídeos , son fascinantes.
Un abrazo desde Colombia
Not bad at all.I've seen similar in PM Shopnotes. A possibility is to put the block that holds the chainfall on trucks. Allows for different positions. I think I would prefer to use 6X6 or laminated for the posts. The 4X4 should be ok but I'm a little paranoid.
Very well done. Jeez, I wish I needed a crane. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! This is super helpful in building something to lift my small sailboat!
what software are you using for the animation??
Great video by the way.
Hi from France !
I think you maybe could increase the design by adding 1 more wheel under the middle of each foot, to decrease the flexibility constraint on the horizontal bottom parts, as it's there that all the weight is pushing down...
Just my two cents...
Hey! You did the "Trinity Killer" in the Dexter series. I knew I'd seen you before. hahahahahaha
I thoroughly enjoy your builds, and your video skills are exemplary. Cheers!
using a strap with metal rivets in it and a bolt or screw (really any straight metal protrusion) would be able to hold the chain off to the side with out having to worry about the chain coming lose if the crane gets jostled around, it would also take up less space on the inside area of the crane