30 years rough, finish, fine finish and bench carpentry, yet still seem to learn at least one thing from you. Thank you! I love the reminder to not work the A face so that it becomes the B face, lol. Cut the bad, keep the good...the tree thanks you every time!
Matt, another outstanding video. Heck, I’d watch to the end of the end of the end of a completely silent video of yours. Don’t sweat the audio issues. Out of all of the woodworking channels on UA-cam, yours is my most favorite. You present the projects in a understandable format, make them entertaining all the while educational too. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and passion for your craft.
Thanks for watching and commenting on this one. I was so stoked about doing this video because there really isn't anything like this product in the market or on UA-cam... I was all happy like that the panels came out excellent and that I'd breeze through editing in the 'rough cut' format. Then I started reviewing the clips only to have the audio catastrophe blind side me... so your appreciative comment is most welcome, especially on this particular video. Best, Matt
20 years ago I worked in my first ever cabinet shop, under the eyes of two incredibly knowledgeable (and patient) carpenters. I found this video and it took me right back. The fact that you're not only showing woodworking techniques but you're also showing how they flow in a shop environment is awesome.
Thanks for that bit of career experience/history Dave... glad to pay it forward from those who taught me, whether directly or indirectly... a fulfilling experience for sure!
Best exercise I’ve had all week, chasing you down the rabbit holes. You never know when a aside comment might be just the thing for one of us, the people on the other side of the camera, to find a solution to a nagging issue. Don’t know how many times I’ve said “Thanks Mark, just what I needed.” Always enjoy your videos, thanks for the time you spend making them a next level video.
It's interesting to me that we have never worked together, yet come to the exact same process for milling rough lumber into a simple finished product such as paneling. It's comforting. My painter asked me if milling my own stuff was worth it? I said yes, it's all about quality control and it's possible to make a couple extra bucks too. Not to mention time in the shop is like 'construction therapy'.
Just goes to show what they say is true: "great minds think alike", right?! FWIW I've come to the conclusion that an ideal project is about 60% shop time and 40% on the job doing prep and 'installation' of custom millwork and casework.... how 'bout you?
I am a loyal end of the end of the end watcher. Frankly, I was hoping to see Chip. In any case, thank you for preparing and posting this perfect paneling. We would all (especially us Patreon members) love to see a picture of it once it's installed. thanks Matt
I plan on doing at least a slide show of this paneling for Patrons once it gets installed. When the time comes I'll include some backstory because you'll be wondering what took SOOO long by the time I finally get to it. I expect it will provide understanding and engender commiseration when you hear 'the rest of the story'...
I am very grateful to have your content available to me. You are smart, witty, thoughful, and very talented. I am very impressed with the Groat for example and would like two for my shop. I hope some day,in some way someone makes you an offer you can't refuse or you begin to have them on your tool page..in that case I'd buy four. Thanx Arthur
Thank you for watching and commenting on this one Arthur... much appreciated. Do you know anyone who can build you a pair (or two) with a set of the plans? Best, Matt
I, too, am chronologically gifted but I never fail to pull something out of one of your videos that I either didn't know, or had forgotten. One of the reasons I love your vids. Watching you mill this soft maple and hearing this will be painted almost breaks my heart. My eyes caught all of that impressive figure that soft maple (in my experience) is known for, and knowing it will be painted over is a bit of a let down. I recently built a mid-century modern inspired stair railing system for a client (using horizontal metal rods) and specifically suggested soft maple for the "happy accident" highly figured pieces that are inevitable. Some careful planning in the milling and construction process allowed me to highlight the figure in the newel posts and hand rails and really lent a "wow!" factor to the project. Oh well, sometimes designers and clients just want what they want ...
It's good to hear that you see and appreciate the significance of beautifully figured wood and work to make it a 'wow factor' for your projects... that's pretty rare these days. The way this beautiful batch of highly figured soft maple ended up as paneling that gets painted is a somewhat convoluted story but, in this case, can't be blamed on ignorance on the part of client or designer. For the record: it highlights a disconnect in the purchasing process at the hardwood supplier where I bought the material, a frustration that manifests itself to me often and was especially blatant in this particular project. Don't let this one situation discourage your from keeping the faith for showcasing figured wood?😎
Thank you for inspiring me during my 2 pluss years of illness. As a novice but enthuseastc wood worker and finisher you have enspured me to keep going and continue to learn. Many thanks for your exellent videos and dedication in inspiring me all the way from South Australia during my convelesonce of illness to my nurvious system. Thank you for inspiring me to learn more about wood working and to inspire me as i now slowly continue to get well. Thank you Colin Carver Adelaide South Australia
You're quite welcome Colin... I encourage you from half a world a way to continue with your desire to learn and hope that motivation sees you through to wellness and a full, healthy life ahead. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry My next project is going to build the veritas traditional work bench. I bought the plans from lee vally in your part of the world and they arrived in august just befour i went to hospital and took them into hospital with me for the month. I soon relised that all the mesurements are in imperial so i spend my time in hospital converting them to metric. The nurses loved to tease me about it but they loved hearing about "guy glitter" when ever they herd you talk about on the tv. I am going to use reclamed oragan timber i think you call that doglas fir and american wallnut trim for the tope and anerican oak for the base. Thanks again for your infectious enthuesiasum and passion as its really inspired me. Thank you Colin from Adelaide South Australia
@@colincarver5876 Sounds like an ambitious and worthy project. If 'oragan timber' is actually what we call Douglas Fir be sure it's what you actually want to use. It's strong and beautiful wood but, personally, I wouldn't choose it for a bench top. Hold a piece of it in your hands and run your fingernail across the grain. You'll find that, besides being 'splintery' wood, your fingernail will leave distinct marks in the soft, light 'early growth' wood, not desirable for a bench top IMHO. Dense wood with consistent grain density like beech and maple are more common choices for these reasons. I'm sure you have some amazing species available there in Australia and can pick something remarkable AND practical. Have fun with the build once you're recovered and out in the shop making 'guy glitter'! Best, Matt
Thank you Matt. I thought douglas fir may be too soft for bench top. I will do alot more research into that cos most australian native timbers are very hard wood mostly used for out door decking and will dammage the project. Will keep researching that. Thank you for the advice. Looking forward to the end of the end of the end of the next video. Much aprecated Colin Carver from Adelaide South Australia
Hay Matt i found a native timber called black wood even though its not black its more golden brown for the bench top. Its grain and hardness is simmilar to maple and traditionaly been used for making board room and dinning tables. Will give that a go. Apparently it glues well too. I used guy glitter to clean up glue squeeze out the other day works like a treat. Trying to find plastic posts to give making organisers a go. Thanks again colin
I have watched your channel for a long time and i don't think i have ever seen the stop block for the jointer. You seem to always solve problems with so well. I need to get that made. Have a nickel gap coming up so this was great.
Thanks Rod. FWIW Here's a video I did showing how I make 'power tool parking brakes' like the 'stop block for the jointer': ua-cam.com/video/NF4oF9kuiH4/v-deo.html Pretty easy to make and very useful for reconfiguring equipment in the shop...
Thanks Greg... always glad to share. I suspect you have intimate knowledge of the pain and suffering involved in making a silk purse video production with only sow's ear video clips to work with? Kind of a digital version of making furniture out of salvaged pallet wood IMHO😒
@@NextLevelCarpentry LOL! I know all too well!!! If you ever watch a high profile tv broadcast, you'll notice they were a pair of lav mics so they can switch if anything goes wrong. Those mics have such small components and that puts them at risk. Also most of the filmed interviews you see have a mic operator AND a sound operator who listen at all times to make sure the audio is smooth coming in... I've been known to use both a lav and a rode shotgun to record YT footage, that way there's a backup. It requires a bit of fiddling during editing to mute and turn a mono channel into a stereo, but it's worth it! This is also a reason you see a lot of creators do "voice over" in their videos instead of talking to the camera... I prefer talking to the camera, but I understand the draw of the voice over!!!
The disturbing thing about this incident is that it's the first time my setup didn't alert me to the problem. I've had problems before but, as soon as I noticed them, I was able to regroup and remedy the problem. As it is, taking extra measures as you thoughtfully line out, would be a bit like buying an insurance policy to protect against damage caused by falling space debris so I'll just press on hoping that I don't experience another direct hit by a meteor without that insurance. 😉
Great video Matt, you always seem to succeed to produce videos that are educational and entertaining even with the audio problems. Also your answers to the comments like the answer to Kenny about the wood movement, great info, I learned a lot. Also all the best for 2023 for you and your family and the channel.
Thanks for watching... and for reading some of the comment thread. Viewer questions, answers and viewpoints add excellent information for the wider world of UA-cam IMHO.
Another excellent video. Anybody, including me (45 years a woodworker) should watch it all and be able to take some lessons from your processes. When we buy waney edge rough timber, it would be impossible to square one edge (after flattening one face) on a planer; so, we use a track saw which gets us near enough and then make a final pass of the edge through the planer. I have/had the interior fit of a barn conversion to do - for my wife and I. We wanted all the trims and doors to be of Arts and Crafts style and in European oak. That meant over £20,000 worth of oak. There was no way at my age that I could process over 5 cubic metres of rough cut long lengths of oak timber and still be alive at the end of it. So, we worked with a couple of good hardwood merchants to get them to process the oak into a couple of different thicknesses and a couple of widths - all selected so as to minimise waste. I’d say that we got 85%/90% of a result of timber ready to be finally cut. The main issue was that the guy on the multi head planer tried to squeeze the last board out of stock just not thick enough and so we got one side on some boards which was not fully planed. In the amount that we ordered, I accepted that because I wanted to maintain relationships and I knew that we would inevitably have to cut some lengths into short pieces and so I could live with the “faults”. All of our trim is stain grade; therefore, we did give it all a final light sanding. On the question of acclimatisation of timber; even though the hardwood supplier keep stock under cover, the ends of the sheds are open most of the time. I think that does affect moisture content. Therefore, to avoid possible issues after I’ve done the extensive milling, I do store the timber in a closed but unseated shed before using. It’s only a halfway house to a heated interior but I hope it reduces the possibility of cupping or splicing. Just my view.
With a smile of amazement on my face, I offer the following comment with all due respect and admiration of your skill: you, Matt, are a terrible show off.
Matt, this was my first introduction to a molding machine. Now I will be pouring through the woodworking machinery makers to learn more. The first observation is the compact size. I might find a use for such a machine in the future. Thank you.
I've done a few other videos featuring that moulder that I hope you get a chance to check out. I think their capability, usefulness and profit potential is highly under rated these days. I've made miles of moulding with that little workhorse in the 20+ years since I bought it so I highly recommend it if you've got a use for producing impeccable mouldings.
Sure was worth watching to the end. Your attention to the details is always refreshing. Don't worry about the problems the content makes more than up for those little issues. The results are outstanding. It would be nice to see the finished product if that is possible. Thank you for sharing all that knowledge it is appreciated.
Matt you certainly stepped nickel gap installation up to the next level. Thanks for sharing the tips about custom profiles others can apply to produce the designer look for the project. Have a Blessed New Year.
You're sure welcome Don... I mentioned those other profile options mainly after being surprised that there aren't more designs being offered 'out there'...
Admire your focus on the individual lot cuts. Swift and rhythmic, you go through the stacks till the boards are all done. Efficiency in processing man. 👍
Thanks for sayin', James. I see that 'swift and rhythmic' process as the essence of millwork; figure out 'a system' that's accurate, safe and efficient, and then execute. 😎
Thank you very much. I too have a Dewalt planer and I am wondering if you converted yours to a Helix style blade. I don't have a Willliams and Hussey planer/molder but now I'm glad I don't. Kind Regards. Craig
Hey Craig, No helical head in my thickness planer... the slightly 'scalloped' surface they leave behind doesn't compare to the flat and smooth finish straight knives produce, an unacceptable tradeoff IMHO. Despite somewhat bizzare interactions with W&H I've no regrets for owning and using one of their machines and would encourage others to focus on the machine's capabilities and benefits rather than company dealings.
Enjoyed watching you doing all the unseen hard work, Matt. Great result. Pity about the microphone wire. Pleased your video is not full of adverts. I like the small moulder, it's a very useful machine. Tony
Do you have experience with a similar/small moulder? Funny thing: As far as I know I'm the only contractor in my area who brings that machine's capability to my clients which is an amazing bit of exclusive marketing. Others have to sub out even limited runs of custom moulding to dedicated millwork company, a real restrictive constraint for both contractor and client. Makes me feel a bit like I have a superpower where that's concerned as I've done many very profitable projects where custom millwork was a key feature for the design.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Not one of those Matt, as far as I know those machines are not available in the UK, probably because square cutterblocks are banned in commercial set ups where people are employed. Great little machine, I've seen them before on YT. I just used to buy additional spindle moulders (shapers) cheap from auctions, tweak them and leave them set up to do repetition work. I had three left set up doing a single operations, one for doing odd ball one offs and two auxiliary spindle moulder heads made by Holz-Her left set up doing single operations. I just used to walk around machine to machine no setting required, very fast turn round machining the components, with no down time. Tony
@@tonyworkswood multiple machines that you can leave setup for dedicated operations are definitely the way to go in a production environment as long as you have the space and equipment to make it work out. I guess the trade-off with a smaller machine is that it's faster for little jobs but slower four big ones? Interesting about the cutter head design rendering them band but I imagine that's a positive thing overall.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Even square blocks for the Spindle moulder (shaper) are banned in the UK. They still get used in private/family businesses though, I have some. I haven't used them in years, they were common once upon a time along with flying cutters, that's why they were banned.
@@tonyworkswood Square blocks could be banned for scary looks alone, regardless of flying cutters since they are a treacherous looking thing even when they're not spinning at light speed! 😮
Matt - Great work, but some of that maple had strong curly figure. Don't paint it - send it my way. I have a nice stain recipe that does a lovely job of making the curl pop.
I was gobsmacked at the beautiful figure of this 'paint grade soft maple'... and it's what they picked and sold me, not something I had to fight for. Not that I would ever pick such gorgeous stuff for painted millwork but the whole thing was a bit hard to process.
Hi Matt, met you at the RC Landfill. The guy with the big truck with tools boxes (Craft Construction). I subbed to your channle a while back, love the content! Hope we can meet up again and talk.
Cool that you subbed to the Channel and made the connection... thanks for that, and the content compliment. I'm sure we'll cross paths again somewhere along the way; it's always good to visit with other's who are 'out in the trenches'. Considering your experience in videography I hope my shortcomings in that department weren't TOO painful!
That was an enjoyable video, too bad about the sound, but not the end of the world! You could have just done a voice over in that time segment. Wondering a few things, did you pre finish the wood? How did the paneling get installed? Was it nailed or glued or both? If nailed would you blind nail in the slot at an angle before the spline was inserted? If you glued it, would you use dollops spaced over the length or a continuous squiggle along the whole length? If glued, what glue would you choose? It would be nice to see you do a paneling install! Keep up the good work! JIM 🥰
Hey Jim, The wood is currently at a painter shop getting prefinished. I'm pretty sure the installation will just consist of brad nails shot at an angle through the spline and groove into half-inch drywall. I'll probably face nail it in a few places int6 studs at 16 in on Center if necessary. I don't plan to use any construction adhesive whatever in addition to those nails because most of the holding power is achieved by a baseboard that gets nailed over the bottomends and an apron that gets nailed over the tops. It's all pretty routine and specific to my product and installation so I'm not planning to do a UA-cam video of the process. I may do a short snippet for patreon but that might just consist of a glorified slideshow.
Good stuff, as always. As usual, the end-of-the-end-of-the-end of the end-process end product is first-rate. 👍👍 Sorry 'bout the mike wire. Not to worry. Stuff happens. Thanks!
Thanks Jerry... now you can see the hole I had to dig myself out of that delayed the next patron-only video. New mic should arrive soon so I can retire the one I repaired and quit worrying about a relapse😒
A method to safety against mic failures is to use 2 separate mics. ie, one left channel one right channel. A bad channel can be muted. Some mute the channel and record a voice over to “recover” audio. I’m here for the knowledge not entertainment. I want to see how you fix it. An excellent value, even at these prices. On the other hand you might consider some of the features used by the motorcycle and hot rod builders. You know, have a fight with Chip or run a wrench into the planer head and then smash the planer. Great for viewer numbers!
Thanks for a pass on the audio fail Steve. Prior to this event I always relied on a blinking blue light on my mic setup indicating a signal failure. Problem is that this time the light was steady because it thought it was recieving... but it wasn't. So the camera tries to record background audio producing that annoying dull hum over muted ambient noise... UGH, what a mess! Makes me glad there's viewers like you 'out there' who watch 'for the knowledge not entertainment'... it's my only hope for any success when video production goes south! 😒 I'll consider picking a fight with Chip next time he runs rocks and nails through my planer... reality TV at its finest, right?!
Thanks for another great video, Matt! Did you store the rough lumber in your shop before processing? I have a heck of a time with rough lumber twisting after jointing and planing. Maybe too much moisture to start with.
I don't purposefully store lumber in my shop to stabilize it before processing and almost never have post-planing issues. Moisture fluctuation is always a concern though so I'm thankful that wood at the supplier I buy from gets and sells stuff that's acclimated to the ambient environment here. I do try to complete a milling project like this in a short time frame though because wood movement DURING milling is more a concern than movement after. One thing I try to do is, as much as possible, mill off a similar amount of wood from both faces so that any reaction is equalized better. The most trouble I encounter is when re-sawing 8/4 into 4/4 because the process exposes internal wood to external moisture and almost always reacts with cupping and/or bowing.
As ever, a great tutorial but, I will admit to skipping a couple of chunks, in an effort to protect my ears 😉 however, I thoroughly enjoyed the journey. If you didn’t tell us, somewhere along the way, in one of those leaps I made, will we be getting to see the end result of all the work put in to this job in future vlogs. Meanwhile, back here in the ‘Old Country’ a big thank you for another great vid 👍
Installation will be so routine as to lack worthiness of a video showing it IMHO. I'll probably do a snippet as part of a video on Patreon where production demands are much more relaxed...
Thanks Mark... and HNY2U2. The wood I used is technically 'soft maple', usually an excellent "sap one face" paint grade wood for its dense smoothness, which I prefer to softer, more 'brashy' wood like pine or poplar. Every other time I purchased this grade of maple it was full of staining, etc that was only acceptable when covered with paint. There's more to the story but I can assure you I didn't hand select this amazing highly figured maple to be painted over but ended up going with it as a result of actions of others beyond my control.
Very nice work. I always learn something from your video's. I have the same table saw insert plate as you. Did you have yours anodized? Again, very nice work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Rick. FWIW the insert seen in this video is one of a batch of them custom made by Greg Porter of Greg's Garage (Seams Impossible Tool fame) when we were exploring the idea of making and selling them. That sharp orange is Greg's signature color and really pops IMHO. My original one is at a CNC shop where a guy is looking into practicality of making exact replicas, again, to offer for sale.
Great video and very informative! One question though, after painting the splines, is there enough gap in the groove to still fit the spline thickness without any fuss?
It is a definite consideration and one you're wise to factor in with a project like this. A sloppy, inconsistent paint job could easily make a mess of that but I'm confident the painter I hired to do the work won't cause problems.
There's little next level or remarkable about installing this stuff so I'm not planning a video for UA-cam showing it... I might end up doing a short 'sneak peek' for Patreon if patrons express similar interest though...
I do... but far from mainstream thinking. 'All' of the workbench videos I see on UA-cam consist of an almost absurd amount of wood glued together into a massive slab that gets supported by stodgy wood legs. My bench consists of a simple welded steel base comprised of 2x2x1/4" angle iron with a laminate covered solid core door slab for a top. It's served me well for decades allowing me to make a far better than average living producing a wide range of profitable projects, never lacking for the features a full-on solid wood bench with tail vise, dog holes, etc that seem so important to many. So I guess you'd need to think through what kind of work you plan to do and how much of it you want to devote to bench building and go from there? Welcome 'back' btw... assuming you were on deployment, thanks for your service and for returning to the Channel! Best, Matt
With solid wood splines, are you concerned about wood expansion across the grain with fluctuations in humidity? How do you plan to deal with wood movement with such a large wood panel?
Good question Ron. Solid wood splines compared to masonite or mdf splines aren't an issue IMHO. Also, I don't see 5 1/4" as "such a large wood panel" so I'm not concerned about the issues in question. My main concern is with cupping and addressed that with the deep double-backout profile on the back face of each piece. The climate where this paneling gets installed is quite dry too so I'm not concerned with expansion issues. If I were, I'd trim the splines to be 1/16" or so narrower and set the gap between planks with a gauge instead of fitting planks tight to splines. That might be good practice in areas where humidity fluctuations are more of a factor.
Hi Matt! Looking for your recommendation. I just picked up a DW735 planer and Johnson's paste wax is no longer available, what do you recommend for a substitute? Thanks!
Try this, Matt: www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DIWIM/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ On second thought, it looks like it's over $60 for a can on that link... that's outrageous! This is for Trewax, another brand I've used interchangeably: www.amazon.com/dp/B005SRV1PI?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzdigitalj-20&creativeASIN=B005SRV1PI&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.15GS5IKZ1S3AL&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ons_mixed_d_asin I don't know why the link is so long but it's what I'd buy if I were buying some today...
Thanks Matt, for the great video as usual! Sound issues aside... You've probably answered this one before but where do you get those insert plates with the replaceable insert? The orange one looks new or at least I've not seen it in your videos before... Thanks again for the channel. I really do learn a lot no matter what you're working on!
Hey Scott, Here's the stock answer I give because your question does get asked frequently: I bought that insert about 20 years ago Scott... unfortunately it's been out of production for over 10 years. Here's a picture of the label on the back in case you want to search for one on eBay or elsewhere: www.pinterest.com/pin/551479916872563704/ www.pinterest.com/pin/551479916872563699/ It is as useful and handy as it looks... Since it's quite popular I've been considering getting a batch custom CNC milled to offer for sale and the orange one you noticed is an early prototype, 1 of a batch of 10, made by Greg's Garage in his sharp signature orange anodized finish. I'm currently passively pursuing a 2nd manufacturing option and will let viewers know all about it if it's a viable product option. Best, Matt
Collflower LLC makes a similar table saw insert plate with replaceable inserts (Saw Stop and DeWalt jobsite versions, there may be others) as well as similar products for miter saws. I got one for my DeWalt jobsite saw and think it's a great upgrade from the factory plate.
@@aaronm.837 I checked out the Colliflower link... thanks for sending it. Looks like some great products there but I don't see one that fits the old model Delta Unisaw throat opening. I suspect it's got to do with accommodating a riving knife?
@@NextLevelCarpentry My apologies, Matt, if I got your and Scott's hopes up with with my suggestion. I should have checked their site again to see what saw models they cover before mentioning it. The custom CNC milled option is probably the way to go for older saws, but it may be worth an email to Colliflower. I don't know their capabilities or costs, but if given measurements, perhaps they'd like to partner with you on those small batch runs.
@@aaronm.837 please don't apologize... I really appreciate the link and info. I already made a mental note to reach out to Colliflower to get his thoughts/perspective on it and see if it merit the 'small batch run' you suggest. I wonder if the one he has for an old Powermatic tablesaw is the same size/shape of Delta saws of the same vintage? Judging by the variety and quality of other ZC options on his site, he'd be the guy to make 'em if anyone is! You wouldn't believe the number of questions I get about that old insert plate every time it shows up in a NLC video. Makes me wonder if there's some legal issue regarding no riving knife slot?
Incredible work! Out of curiosity, how do you quote next level nickel gap paneling? The attention to detail is such an art, but surely it's more expensive than readily available material
The secret is to make a paradigm shift to an arrangement where I only work with clients on a 'cost plus' basis that avoids the pitfalls of producing 'next level' workmanship for a fixed bid price.
Excellent video as always. I do have one question though, which is how these piecea will actually be installed onto the wall. Because they're being painted will you just face nail them and fill the holes? Or possibly blind nail them through the tongues? Thank you for all your work. I have a faux beam job coming soon and may use your extreme beam method, depending on the what the owner decides on lengths, joints etc.
I plan to mostly blind nail pieces through the tongues but will add a few face nails into studs if/when/where necessary. Truth be told very little nailing is required because 5" base at the bottom and a 4" apron at the tops will provide enough holding power by themselves that minimal nailing through tongues in between should be necessary.
That question NEEDS to be asked. The odd truth is that, totally out character, I called in an order rather than hand-selecting which I do 99.9% of the time. I asked for and got "4/4 Soft Maple, Select & Better, Sap 1 face" and the boards you see at the beginning of the video is what THEY selected out of the bunk to fill the order. I was as surprised as any viewer because usually a called in order yields the dregs of the bunk, not the cream of the crop...
Actually Tony, the installation is so routine as to be mundane IMHO but I will endeavor to post a couple photos of the finished installation to Pinterest when it's complete. That won't be for over a month but should be worth the wait..
Soft maple is very similar in appearance to rock or hard maple but, no surprise, is 25~30% 'softer' and easier to work. Wouldn't make for a good butcher block but is an excellent choice for high quality, very durable dent-resistant millwork IMHO.
You may want to look at your video from about 38:30 to 38:40. Was that a safe cut? Im not trying to scold or shame. But in my opinion that finger was way to close to the blade. I have likely done the same thing and we don't even realize it. Another great video and attention to detail
Kevin; I paid extra attention to the cut sequence you point out because it looks so treacherous but, fact is, it was completely safe IMHO. I'm glad you brought it up though because there's great potential for injury if ANY of the factors involved change. The combination of ZERO clearance insert, type of pushstick used, blade height and distance setting, workpiece size, feed rate, type of material, etc gave me confidence with the process but a significant change in any of those factors could result in a very different outcome. Best, Matt
Your videos are filled with great ideas and information. I always watch until the end. Some of those finished planks looked like they had some awesome figure and flame, would be great for guitar necks!
The 'figure' of this soft maple was definitely 'furniture grade' or 'instrument grade' in my estimation but not sure if soft maple is tough enough for either application when compared to hard or rock maple?
WOW, that is a lot of effort to get something just a little bit different than what could be bought from a company like Windsor One or Baird but if a client is willing to pay, what the heck, go for it! I'm curious about your estimating process. How did you determine labor hours or was this a T&M project? Nice work as always BTW.
Thanks Jay. If there's one thing I've learned over the years it's that the work I find profitable takes a real paradigm shift in my thinking and approach because the whole world of bid work runs contrary to this sort of project. FWIW I actually talked to Windsor One to see if something they had would fit the bill. The excellent rep I talk to was very receptive to providing product and their stuff is excellent quality for sure but designer and client didn't want standard nickel gap or commong vee-grooved paneling. That's the niche I try to fill and, by doing everything T&M, don't ever fret about bidding the work. If I ever did the same job twice I'd be able to bid a 2nd one but that's the thing about CUSTOM design build: there's more than enough people out there who value one-of-a-kind things that I've always turned down more projects than I accept.
That's the takeaway I hope viewers find, Dave; this is how custom millwork is done in a small-ish shop. If there's something 'off the rack' that fits the bill it's almost always less expensive, but when the job requires something one-of-a-kind, meeting the need is totally doable IMHO.
@@lucidmoses Yeah, no kidding! If only it were just voice over... fixing the mess in this video would have been an exercise in advanced lip syncing too... not for the faint of heart for sure.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Syncing.... No need. It would never be perfect and it would be obvious by the lack of machine noise. I was thinking more like directors commentary after the fact. Your little clip you recorded to warn people would be a good cut over point. Other youtubers have done this kind of thin when they forgot to turn on the mic and their was no way to recreate the footage. Anyway. As always. up to you. Your channel. Just a suggestion.
@@lucidmoses I appreciate your perspective... at the outset I thought the closed captions would be quicker/easier but realized along the way it would have been a coin flip. By the time I realized it would have taken about the same amount of time/effort to produce voice over for a 'better' result, it was too late, practically speaking. I figure I was the only UA-camr without an 'audio team' to make me look good...
Enjoyed the video as always. I really appreciate the effort you go to in order to teach good methods (e.g. working through cutting the thin strips). I always feel I've learned something useful. I do have a question: Since you are milling the boards vs buying them and it would seem to be less work to create shiplap panels, why go with nickel gap instead? Client preference or is there some other reason?
Thanks Don. I've never liked shiplap panels for interior/finished surfaces because a 'lap joint' is more subject to issues if individual boards cup or warp since they're able to act independently of each other where nickel gap, being essentially tongue and groove, means adjacent pieces are restricted to common movement. That is to say the tongue/groove joint tends to resist movement of adjacent boards keeping the whole installation flatter over the long term. Sorry I made that sound so complicated but, to me, the little extra work milling it is worth the better look gained long term. Since I'm quite chronologically gifted I can remind viewers that shiplap sheathing was a common 'best practice' for exterior wall sheathing in the days before plywood in the days before OSB. Back then, when dinosaurs were young, you'd be seen as a sad hack if you even considered using shiplap as a finished INTERIOR wall material but tongue and groove was quite acceptable.
I am continually Amazed with how well I like that little saw. On the face of it it's no more than a plastic toy but its power accuracy and light-weight make it my first choice for more things than you what imagine. I do resort to my previous favorite which is a six and a half inch model 367 Skil Worm Drive corded saw but that's mostly for long rips on a job site.
@@NextLevelCarpentry I too have the 6 1/2" skill saw. That 6 1/2"makita you have I don't think has a hook on it. The newer one with the hook on it has more power. I've been going through my tools and found a old 4 1/2" Porter-Cable Worm Drive saw I no longer use, it's made the USA and I think I'm going to have to get rid of it🥺
@@3dandyrandy3 Hard to let those old, faithful tools go, isn't it? I wouldn't mind more power in a newer version of the little Makita saw if it doesn't come at the expense of agility....
Can't tell you how many times I caught myself saying 'Nickelback' while talking and filming... the audio track would have still been disappointing from editing all those misnomers despite the mic cable fail; nickel gap, nickel gap, nickel gap, nickel... 🤯
30 years rough, finish, fine finish and bench carpentry, yet still seem to learn at least one thing from you. Thank you! I love the reminder to not work the A face so that it becomes the B face, lol. Cut the bad, keep the good...the tree thanks you every time!
Great comment... thanks for watching and adding it here!
Matt, another outstanding video. Heck, I’d watch to the end of the end of the end of a completely silent video of yours. Don’t sweat the audio issues. Out of all of the woodworking channels on UA-cam, yours is my most favorite. You present the projects in a understandable format, make them entertaining all the while educational too. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and passion for your craft.
Thanks for watching and commenting on this one. I was so stoked about doing this video because there really isn't anything like this product in the market or on UA-cam... I was all happy like that the panels came out excellent and that I'd breeze through editing in the 'rough cut' format. Then I started reviewing the clips only to have the audio catastrophe blind side me... so your appreciative comment is most welcome, especially on this particular video.
Best,
Matt
20 years ago I worked in my first ever cabinet shop, under the eyes of two incredibly knowledgeable (and patient) carpenters. I found this video and it took me right back. The fact that you're not only showing woodworking techniques but you're also showing how they flow in a shop environment is awesome.
Thanks for that bit of career experience/history Dave... glad to pay it forward from those who taught me, whether directly or indirectly... a fulfilling experience for sure!
Best exercise I’ve had all week, chasing you down the rabbit holes. You never know when a aside comment might be just the thing for one of us, the people on the other side of the camera, to find a solution to a nagging issue. Don’t know how many times I’ve said “Thanks Mark, just what I needed.” Always enjoy your videos, thanks for the time you spend making them a next level video.
You betcha, Bob... rabbit hole should be my middle name, right? Glad to hear when it's appreciated!
It's interesting to me that we have never worked together, yet come to the exact same process for milling rough lumber into a simple finished product such as paneling. It's comforting. My painter asked me if milling my own stuff was worth it? I said yes, it's all about quality control and it's possible to make a couple extra bucks too. Not to mention time in the shop is like 'construction therapy'.
Just goes to show what they say is true: "great minds think alike", right?! FWIW I've come to the conclusion that an ideal project is about 60% shop time and 40% on the job doing prep and 'installation' of custom millwork and casework.... how 'bout you?
That last bit of information was worth the sound issues for, thanks Matt. I have always wondered about the purpose of those grooves
You're sure welcome...
I am a loyal end of the end of the end watcher. Frankly, I was hoping to see Chip. In any case, thank you for preparing and posting this perfect paneling. We would all (especially us Patreon members) love to see a picture of it once it's installed. thanks Matt
I plan on doing at least a slide show of this paneling for Patrons once it gets installed. When the time comes I'll include some backstory because you'll be wondering what took SOOO long by the time I finally get to it. I expect it will provide understanding and engender commiseration when you hear 'the rest of the story'...
When Matt uploads. You pay attention. Something great is about to happen.
Thanks! I hope the greatness of the paneling exceeds the un-greatness of the soundtrack on this one? 😒
I am very grateful to have your content available to me. You are smart, witty, thoughful, and very talented. I am very impressed with the Groat for example and would like two for my shop. I hope some day,in some way someone makes you an offer you can't refuse or you begin to have them on your tool page..in that case I'd buy four.
Thanx Arthur
Thank you for watching and commenting on this one Arthur... much appreciated. Do you know anyone who can build you a pair (or two) with a set of the plans?
Best,
Matt
This is the best edutainment out there. Thank you for sharing
I try, Scott... I really do! Thank YOU for watching and commenting on this one...
I watched to the end because... I'm a hard core fan! Nice work.
You deserve a 'hard core fan' badge... especially after surviving the audio meltdown on this particular vid! Thanks!!
OOHRAH! I'm back once again. It is refreshing to see and hear your presentation, sir! Semper Fi
Welcome back, Mr Mercado!!
I, too, am chronologically gifted but I never fail to pull something out of one of your videos that I either didn't know, or had forgotten. One of the reasons I love your vids.
Watching you mill this soft maple and hearing this will be painted almost breaks my heart. My eyes caught all of that impressive figure that soft maple (in my experience) is known for, and knowing it will be painted over is a bit of a let down. I recently built a mid-century modern inspired stair railing system for a client (using horizontal metal rods) and specifically suggested soft maple for the "happy accident" highly figured pieces that are inevitable. Some careful planning in the milling and construction process allowed me to highlight the figure in the newel posts and hand rails and really lent a "wow!" factor to the project. Oh well, sometimes designers and clients just want what they want ...
It's good to hear that you see and appreciate the significance of beautifully figured wood and work to make it a 'wow factor' for your projects... that's pretty rare these days. The way this beautiful batch of highly figured soft maple ended up as paneling that gets painted is a somewhat convoluted story but, in this case, can't be blamed on ignorance on the part of client or designer. For the record: it highlights a disconnect in the purchasing process at the hardwood supplier where I bought the material, a frustration that manifests itself to me often and was especially blatant in this particular project.
Don't let this one situation discourage your from keeping the faith for showcasing figured wood?😎
Fantastic video, and no problem with the audio these things happen 😀. Aww the best for 2023 Matt
Thank you for inspiring me during my 2 pluss years of illness. As a novice but enthuseastc wood worker and finisher you have enspured me to keep going and continue to learn. Many thanks for your exellent videos and dedication in inspiring me all the way from South Australia during my convelesonce of illness to my nurvious system. Thank you for inspiring me to learn more about wood working and to inspire me as i now slowly continue to get well. Thank you Colin Carver Adelaide South Australia
You're quite welcome Colin... I encourage you from half a world a way to continue with your desire to learn and hope that motivation sees you through to wellness and a full, healthy life ahead.
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry
My next project is going to build the veritas traditional work bench. I bought the plans from lee vally in your part of the world and they arrived in august just befour i went to hospital and took them into hospital with me for the month. I soon relised that all the mesurements are in imperial so i spend my time in hospital converting them to metric. The nurses loved to tease me about it but they loved hearing about "guy glitter" when ever they herd you talk about on the tv. I am going to use reclamed oragan timber i think you call that doglas fir and american wallnut trim for the tope and anerican oak for the base. Thanks again for your infectious enthuesiasum and passion as its really inspired me. Thank you Colin from Adelaide South Australia
@@colincarver5876 Sounds like an ambitious and worthy project. If 'oragan timber' is actually what we call Douglas Fir be sure it's what you actually want to use. It's strong and beautiful wood but, personally, I wouldn't choose it for a bench top.
Hold a piece of it in your hands and run your fingernail across the grain. You'll find that, besides being 'splintery' wood, your fingernail will leave distinct marks in the soft, light 'early growth' wood, not desirable for a bench top IMHO. Dense wood with consistent grain density like beech and maple are more common choices for these reasons. I'm sure you have some amazing species available there in Australia and can pick something remarkable AND practical.
Have fun with the build once you're recovered and out in the shop making 'guy glitter'!
Best, Matt
Thank you Matt. I thought douglas fir may be too soft for bench top. I will do alot more research into that cos most australian native timbers are very hard wood mostly used for out door decking and will dammage the project. Will keep researching that. Thank you for the advice. Looking forward to the end of the end of the end of the next video. Much aprecated Colin Carver from Adelaide South Australia
Hay Matt i found a native timber called black wood even though its not black its more golden brown for the bench top. Its grain and hardness is simmilar to maple and traditionaly been used for making board room and dinning tables. Will give that a go. Apparently it glues well too. I used guy glitter to clean up glue squeeze out the other day works like a treat. Trying to find plastic posts to give making organisers a go. Thanks again colin
I have watched your channel for a long time and i don't think i have ever seen the stop block for the jointer. You seem to always solve problems with so well. I need to get that made. Have a nickel gap coming up so this was great.
Thanks Rod. FWIW Here's a video I did showing how I make 'power tool parking brakes' like the 'stop block for the jointer': ua-cam.com/video/NF4oF9kuiH4/v-deo.html Pretty easy to make and very useful for reconfiguring equipment in the shop...
What fun to watch this. Good to know this kind of work is still being done.
I always love hearing the little tips you have in your rough cut series!!! Thanks for bringing us along!!!
Thanks Greg... always glad to share. I suspect you have intimate knowledge of the pain and suffering involved in making a silk purse video production with only sow's ear video clips to work with? Kind of a digital version of making furniture out of salvaged pallet wood IMHO😒
@@NextLevelCarpentry LOL! I know all too well!!! If you ever watch a high profile tv broadcast, you'll notice they were a pair of lav mics so they can switch if anything goes wrong. Those mics have such small components and that puts them at risk. Also most of the filmed interviews you see have a mic operator AND a sound operator who listen at all times to make sure the audio is smooth coming in... I've been known to use both a lav and a rode shotgun to record YT footage, that way there's a backup. It requires a bit of fiddling during editing to mute and turn a mono channel into a stereo, but it's worth it! This is also a reason you see a lot of creators do "voice over" in their videos instead of talking to the camera... I prefer talking to the camera, but I understand the draw of the voice over!!!
The disturbing thing about this incident is that it's the first time my setup didn't alert me to the problem. I've had problems before but, as soon as I noticed them, I was able to regroup and remedy the problem.
As it is, taking extra measures as you thoughtfully line out, would be a bit like buying an insurance policy to protect against damage caused by falling space debris so I'll just press on hoping that I don't experience another direct hit by a meteor without that insurance. 😉
Great job and video! I think my body is aching just from watching you do all this work ;-)
A master carpenter at work. It is such a pleasure watching and learning from you, Matt. Great trip for 2023. All the best to you in the new year.
Great video Matt, you always seem to succeed to produce videos that are educational and entertaining even with the audio problems. Also your answers to the comments like the answer to Kenny about the wood movement, great info, I learned a lot.
Also all the best for 2023 for you and your family and the channel.
Thanks for watching... and for reading some of the comment thread. Viewer questions, answers and viewpoints add excellent information for the wider world of UA-cam IMHO.
Another excellent video. Anybody, including me (45 years a woodworker) should watch it all and be able to take some lessons from your processes. When we buy waney edge rough timber, it would be impossible to square one edge (after flattening one face) on a planer; so, we use a track saw which gets us near enough and then make a final pass of the edge through the planer.
I have/had the interior fit of a barn conversion to do - for my wife and I. We wanted all the trims and doors to be of Arts and Crafts style and in European oak. That meant over £20,000 worth of oak. There was no way at my age that I could process over 5 cubic metres of rough cut long lengths of oak timber and still be alive at the end of it. So, we worked with a couple of good hardwood merchants to get them to process the oak into a couple of different thicknesses and a couple of widths - all selected so as to minimise waste. I’d say that we got 85%/90% of a result of timber ready to be finally cut. The main issue was that the guy on the multi head planer tried to squeeze the last board out of stock just not thick enough and so we got one side on some boards which was not fully planed. In the amount that we ordered, I accepted that because I wanted to maintain relationships and I knew that we would inevitably have to cut some lengths into short pieces and so I could live with the “faults”. All of our trim is stain grade; therefore, we did give it all a final light sanding.
On the question of acclimatisation of timber; even though the hardwood supplier keep stock under cover, the ends of the sheds are open most of the time. I think that does affect moisture content. Therefore, to avoid possible issues after I’ve done the extensive milling, I do store the timber in a closed but unseated shed before using. It’s only a halfway house to a heated interior but I hope it reduces the possibility of cupping or splicing. Just my view.
Such are the realities of mindful millwork, right?
With a smile of amazement on my face, I offer the following comment with all due respect and admiration of your skill: you, Matt, are a terrible show off.
Heyyy... I resemble that remark! 🤣😎
@@NextLevelCarpentry 😂
I was pleasantly pleased from peering at your panel prep process. Perfecto!
You published a perfect rePly, Dave... 'payment' I 'preciate!
A polished performance
Matt, this was my first introduction to a molding machine. Now I will be pouring through the woodworking machinery makers to learn more. The first observation is the compact size. I might find a use for such a machine in the future. Thank you.
I've done a few other videos featuring that moulder that I hope you get a chance to check out. I think their capability, usefulness and profit potential is highly under rated these days. I've made miles of moulding with that little workhorse in the 20+ years since I bought it so I highly recommend it if you've got a use for producing impeccable mouldings.
Sure was worth watching to the end. Your attention to the details is always refreshing. Don't worry about the problems the content makes more than up for those little issues. The results are outstanding. It would be nice to see the finished product if that is possible. Thank you for sharing all that knowledge it is appreciated.
Wow, I almost missed your video. I always learn a lot from your videos.
Glad you didn't miss this one James... thx for watching! Good to know you "learn a lot" despite audio issues on this particular video...
Watched till the very end. You are superb sir!
You, sir, are most tolerant... congratulations for making it through this one!
Best,
Matt
I’m back once again! OOHRAH! Semper Fi
Audio problems happen. No worries. Great video and informative.
Matt you certainly stepped nickel gap installation up to the next level. Thanks for sharing the tips about custom profiles others can apply to produce the designer look for the project.
Have a Blessed New Year.
You're sure welcome Don... I mentioned those other profile options mainly after being surprised that there aren't more designs being offered 'out there'...
Great project and awesome alliterations.
Thanks!
Happy NewYear!
Happy New Year, and thanks for sharing............................... pretty sweet panels !!
Thanks for sayin'... they should make for a very pleasing accent to an otherwise rather bland space IMHO...
Admire your focus on the individual lot cuts. Swift and rhythmic, you go through the stacks till the boards are all done. Efficiency in processing man. 👍
Thanks for sayin', James. I see that 'swift and rhythmic' process as the essence of millwork; figure out 'a system' that's accurate, safe and efficient, and then execute. 😎
Amusing awesomely apt alliteration.
Thank you very much. I too have a Dewalt planer and I am wondering if you converted yours to a Helix style blade. I don't have a Willliams and Hussey planer/molder but now I'm glad I don't. Kind Regards. Craig
Hey Craig,
No helical head in my thickness planer... the slightly 'scalloped' surface they leave behind doesn't compare to the flat and smooth finish straight knives produce, an unacceptable tradeoff IMHO.
Despite somewhat bizzare interactions with W&H I've no regrets for owning and using one of their machines and would encourage others to focus on the machine's capabilities and benefits rather than company dealings.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you. Craig
Enjoyed watching you doing all the unseen hard work, Matt. Great result. Pity about the microphone wire. Pleased your video is not full of adverts. I like the small moulder, it's a very useful machine. Tony
Do you have experience with a similar/small moulder? Funny thing: As far as I know I'm the only contractor in my area who brings that machine's capability to my clients which is an amazing bit of exclusive marketing. Others have to sub out even limited runs of custom moulding to dedicated millwork company, a real restrictive constraint for both contractor and client. Makes me feel a bit like I have a superpower where that's concerned as I've done many very profitable projects where custom millwork was a key feature for the design.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Not one of those Matt, as far as I know those machines are not available in the UK, probably because square cutterblocks are banned
in commercial set ups where people are employed. Great little machine, I've seen them before on YT. I just used to buy additional spindle moulders (shapers)
cheap from auctions, tweak them and leave them set up to do repetition work. I had three left set up doing a single operations, one for doing odd ball one offs
and two auxiliary spindle moulder heads made by Holz-Her left set up doing single operations. I just used to walk around machine to machine no setting required,
very fast turn round machining the components, with no down time. Tony
@@tonyworkswood multiple machines that you can leave setup for dedicated operations are definitely the way to go in a production environment as long as you have the space and equipment to make it work out. I guess the trade-off with a smaller machine is that it's faster for little jobs but slower four big ones? Interesting about the cutter head design rendering them band but I imagine that's a positive thing overall.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Even square blocks for the Spindle moulder (shaper) are banned in the UK. They still get used in private/family businesses though, I have some. I haven't used them in years, they were common once upon a time along with flying cutters, that's why they were banned.
@@tonyworkswood Square blocks could be banned for scary looks alone, regardless of flying cutters since they are a treacherous looking thing even when they're not spinning at light speed! 😮
Matt - Great work, but some of that maple had strong curly figure. Don't paint it - send it my way. I have a nice stain recipe that does a lovely job of making the curl pop.
I was gobsmacked at the beautiful figure of this 'paint grade soft maple'... and it's what they picked and sold me, not something I had to fight for. Not that I would ever pick such gorgeous stuff for painted millwork but the whole thing was a bit hard to process.
Hi Matt, met you at the RC Landfill. The guy with the big truck with tools boxes (Craft Construction). I subbed to your channle a while back, love the content! Hope we can meet up again and talk.
Cool that you subbed to the Channel and made the connection... thanks for that, and the content compliment. I'm sure we'll cross paths again somewhere along the way; it's always good to visit with other's who are 'out in the trenches'. Considering your experience in videography I hope my shortcomings in that department weren't TOO painful!
Good content. Where did you get the throat plate with the slot for fresh zero clearance plate?
That was an enjoyable video, too bad about the sound, but not the end of the world! You could have just done a voice over in that time segment.
Wondering a few things, did you pre finish the wood?
How did the paneling get installed? Was it nailed or glued or both?
If nailed would you blind nail in the slot at an angle before the spline was inserted?
If you glued it, would you use dollops spaced over the length or a continuous squiggle along the whole length?
If glued, what glue would you choose?
It would be nice to see you do a paneling install!
Keep up the good work!
JIM 🥰
Hey Jim,
The wood is currently at a painter shop getting prefinished.
I'm pretty sure the installation will just consist of brad nails shot at an angle through the spline and groove into half-inch drywall. I'll probably face nail it in a few places int6 studs at 16 in on Center if necessary. I don't plan to use any construction adhesive whatever in addition to those nails because most of the holding power is achieved by a baseboard that gets nailed over the bottomends and an apron that gets nailed over the tops. It's all pretty routine and specific to my product and installation so I'm not planning to do a UA-cam video of the process. I may do a short snippet for patreon but that might just consist of a glorified slideshow.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you for your reply!
JIM🤩
And another great video.
I love that molder.
On a lighter note, a lot of "P"ing going on in this video. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good stuff, as always. As usual, the end-of-the-end-of-the-end of the end-process end product is first-rate. 👍👍
Sorry 'bout the mike wire. Not to worry. Stuff happens.
Thanks!
Thanks Jerry... now you can see the hole I had to dig myself out of that delayed the next patron-only video. New mic should arrive soon so I can retire the one I repaired and quit worrying about a relapse😒
Nice job
A method to safety against mic failures is to use 2 separate mics. ie, one left channel one right channel. A bad channel can be muted. Some mute the channel and record a voice over to “recover” audio. I’m here for the knowledge not entertainment. I want to see how you fix it. An excellent value, even at these prices. On the other hand you might consider some of the features used by the motorcycle and hot rod builders. You know, have a fight with Chip or run a wrench into the planer head and then smash the planer. Great for viewer numbers!
Thanks for a pass on the audio fail Steve. Prior to this event I always relied on a blinking blue light on my mic setup indicating a signal failure. Problem is that this time the light was steady because it thought it was recieving... but it wasn't. So the camera tries to record background audio producing that annoying dull hum over muted ambient noise... UGH, what a mess! Makes me glad there's viewers like you 'out there' who watch 'for the knowledge not entertainment'... it's my only hope for any success when video production goes south! 😒 I'll consider picking a fight with Chip next time he runs rocks and nails through my planer... reality TV at its finest, right?!
I love the zero clearance insert where you can swap in new material. Is that commercially available? Or a custom job? I’d buy that.
If your customer wants that pretty maple painted, ima need her address to educate her.
Thanks for detailing your process.
Thanks for another great video, Matt! Did you store the rough lumber in your shop before processing? I have a heck of a time with rough lumber twisting after jointing and planing. Maybe too much moisture to start with.
I don't purposefully store lumber in my shop to stabilize it before processing and almost never have post-planing issues. Moisture fluctuation is always a concern though so I'm thankful that wood at the supplier I buy from gets and sells stuff that's acclimated to the ambient environment here. I do try to complete a milling project like this in a short time frame though because wood movement DURING milling is more a concern than movement after. One thing I try to do is, as much as possible, mill off a similar amount of wood from both faces so that any reaction is equalized better. The most trouble I encounter is when re-sawing 8/4 into 4/4 because the process exposes internal wood to external moisture and almost always reacts with cupping and/or bowing.
As ever, a great tutorial but, I will admit to skipping a couple of chunks, in an effort to protect my ears 😉 however, I thoroughly enjoyed the journey. If you didn’t tell us, somewhere along the way, in one of those leaps I made, will we be getting to see the end result of all the work put in to this job in future vlogs. Meanwhile, back here in the ‘Old Country’ a big thank you for another great vid 👍
Installation will be so routine as to lack worthiness of a video showing it IMHO. I'll probably do a snippet as part of a video on Patreon where production demands are much more relaxed...
Good info as usual, and Happy New Year. But what am I missing? If your painting over the wood, why use maple over poplar or pine?
Thanks Mark... and HNY2U2. The wood I used is technically 'soft maple', usually an excellent "sap one face" paint grade wood for its dense smoothness, which I prefer to softer, more 'brashy' wood like pine or poplar. Every other time I purchased this grade of maple it was full of staining, etc that was only acceptable when covered with paint. There's more to the story but I can assure you I didn't hand select this amazing highly figured maple to be painted over but ended up going with it as a result of actions of others beyond my control.
Very nice work. I always learn something from your video's. I have the same table saw insert plate as you. Did you have yours anodized? Again, very nice work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Rick. FWIW the insert seen in this video is one of a batch of them custom made by Greg Porter of Greg's Garage (Seams Impossible Tool fame) when we were exploring the idea of making and selling them. That sharp orange is Greg's signature color and really pops IMHO. My original one is at a CNC shop where a guy is looking into practicality of making exact replicas, again, to offer for sale.
Great video and very informative! One question though, after painting the splines, is there enough gap in the groove to still fit the spline thickness without any fuss?
It is a definite consideration and one you're wise to factor in with a project like this. A sloppy, inconsistent paint job could easily make a mess of that but I'm confident the painter I hired to do the work won't cause problems.
Thank you , I like your Chanel 😊
I would be interested to see te installation application of the 5 ft material.
There's little next level or remarkable about installing this stuff so I'm not planning a video for UA-cam showing it... I might end up doing a short 'sneak peek' for Patreon if patrons express similar interest though...
Jedi Master...as always.
... other than the audio fail, that is? Thanks for watching and complimenting in spite of it!
Would you have an idea or two building a workbench? Semper Fi
I do... but far from mainstream thinking. 'All' of the workbench videos I see on UA-cam consist of an almost absurd amount of wood glued together into a massive slab that gets supported by stodgy wood legs. My bench consists of a simple welded steel base comprised of 2x2x1/4" angle iron with a laminate covered solid core door slab for a top. It's served me well for decades allowing me to make a far better than average living producing a wide range of profitable projects, never lacking for the features a full-on solid wood bench with tail vise, dog holes, etc that seem so important to many. So I guess you'd need to think through what kind of work you plan to do and how much of it you want to devote to bench building and go from there?
Welcome 'back' btw... assuming you were on deployment, thanks for your service and for returning to the Channel!
Best, Matt
With solid wood splines, are you concerned about wood expansion across the grain with fluctuations in humidity? How do you plan to deal with wood movement with such a large wood panel?
Good question Ron.
Solid wood splines compared to masonite or mdf splines aren't an issue IMHO. Also, I don't see 5 1/4" as "such a large wood panel" so I'm not concerned about the issues in question. My main concern is with cupping and addressed that with the deep double-backout profile on the back face of each piece.
The climate where this paneling gets installed is quite dry too so I'm not concerned with expansion issues. If I were, I'd trim the splines to be 1/16" or so narrower and set the gap between planks with a gauge instead of fitting planks tight to splines. That might be good practice in areas where humidity fluctuations are more of a factor.
Hi Matt! Looking for your recommendation. I just picked up a DW735 planer and Johnson's paste wax is no longer available, what do you recommend for a substitute? Thanks!
Try this, Matt:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DIWIM/?ref=idea_lv_dp_
On second thought, it looks like it's over $60 for a can on that link... that's outrageous!
This is for Trewax, another brand I've used interchangeably:
www.amazon.com/dp/B005SRV1PI?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzdigitalj-20&creativeASIN=B005SRV1PI&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.15GS5IKZ1S3AL&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ons_mixed_d_asin
I don't know why the link is so long but it's what I'd buy if I were buying some today...
Thanks Matt, for the great video as usual! Sound issues aside... You've probably answered this one before but where do you get those insert plates with the replaceable insert? The orange one looks new or at least I've not seen it in your videos before... Thanks again for the channel. I really do learn a lot no matter what you're working on!
Hey Scott,
Here's the stock answer I give because your question does get asked frequently:
I bought that insert about 20 years ago Scott... unfortunately it's been out of production for over 10 years. Here's a picture of the label on the back in case you want to search for one on eBay or elsewhere:
www.pinterest.com/pin/551479916872563704/
www.pinterest.com/pin/551479916872563699/
It is as useful and handy as it looks...
Since it's quite popular I've been considering getting a batch custom CNC milled to offer for sale and the orange one you noticed is an early prototype, 1 of a batch of 10, made by Greg's Garage in his sharp signature orange anodized finish. I'm currently passively pursuing a 2nd manufacturing option and will let viewers know all about it if it's a viable product option.
Best, Matt
Collflower LLC makes a similar table saw insert plate with replaceable inserts (Saw Stop and DeWalt jobsite versions, there may be others) as well as similar products for miter saws. I got one for my DeWalt jobsite saw and think it's a great upgrade from the factory plate.
@@aaronm.837 I checked out the Colliflower link... thanks for sending it. Looks like some great products there but I don't see one that fits the old model Delta Unisaw throat opening. I suspect it's got to do with accommodating a riving knife?
@@NextLevelCarpentry My apologies, Matt, if I got your and Scott's hopes up with with my suggestion. I should have checked their site again to see what saw models they cover before mentioning it. The custom CNC milled option is probably the way to go for older saws, but it may be worth an email to Colliflower. I don't know their capabilities or costs, but if given measurements, perhaps they'd like to partner with you on those small batch runs.
@@aaronm.837 please don't apologize... I really appreciate the link and info. I already made a mental note to reach out to Colliflower to get his thoughts/perspective on it and see if it merit the 'small batch run' you suggest. I wonder if the one he has for an old Powermatic tablesaw is the same size/shape of Delta saws of the same vintage? Judging by the variety and quality of other ZC options on his site, he'd be the guy to make 'em if anyone is!
You wouldn't believe the number of questions I get about that old insert plate every time it shows up in a NLC video. Makes me wonder if there's some legal issue regarding no riving knife slot?
Incredible work! Out of curiosity, how do you quote next level nickel gap paneling? The attention to detail is such an art, but surely it's more expensive than readily available material
The secret is to make a paradigm shift to an arrangement where I only work with clients on a 'cost plus' basis that avoids the pitfalls of producing 'next level' workmanship for a fixed bid price.
Excellent video as always. I do have one question though, which is how these piecea will actually be installed onto the wall. Because they're being painted will you just face nail them and fill the holes? Or possibly blind nail them through the tongues? Thank you for all your work. I have a faux beam job coming soon and may use your extreme beam method, depending on the what the owner decides on lengths, joints etc.
I plan to mostly blind nail pieces through the tongues but will add a few face nails into studs if/when/where necessary. Truth be told very little nailing is required because 5" base at the bottom and a 4" apron at the tops will provide enough holding power by themselves that minimal nailing through tongues in between should be necessary.
Good question, that was mine as well. Thanks to Matt for the answer.
Did you choose the rough cut lumber with a specific grain orientation in the profile?
That question NEEDS to be asked. The odd truth is that, totally out character, I called in an order rather than hand-selecting which I do 99.9% of the time. I asked for and got "4/4 Soft Maple, Select & Better, Sap 1 face" and the boards you see at the beginning of the video is what THEY selected out of the bunk to fill the order. I was as surprised as any viewer because usually a called in order yields the dregs of the bunk, not the cream of the crop...
Hi Matt, how about an installation video?
Actually Tony, the installation is so routine as to be mundane IMHO but I will endeavor to post a couple photos of the finished installation to Pinterest when it's complete. That won't be for over a month but should be worth the wait..
Maple is nice timber, but for me the most difficult to work with. What’s soft maple?
Soft maple is very similar in appearance to rock or hard maple but, no surprise, is 25~30% 'softer' and easier to work. Wouldn't make for a good butcher block but is an excellent choice for high quality, very durable dent-resistant millwork IMHO.
I would rather just buy a couple of the GROAT from you 🤷♂️
So less supherlic rederick?
Ty for anthor great vedio sound issues and ruff cut don't bother me a bit!!
You may want to look at your video from about 38:30 to 38:40. Was that a safe cut? Im not trying to scold or shame. But in my opinion that finger was way to close to the blade. I have likely done the same thing and we don't even realize it. Another great video and attention to detail
Kevin; I paid extra attention to the cut sequence you point out because it looks so treacherous but, fact is, it was completely safe IMHO.
I'm glad you brought it up though because there's great potential for injury if ANY of the factors involved change. The combination of ZERO clearance insert, type of pushstick used, blade height and distance setting, workpiece size, feed rate, type of material, etc gave me confidence with the process but a significant change in any of those factors could result in a very different outcome.
Best,
Matt
Excellent video. Back groves is a great idea. What make is your table saw?
10" Delta Unisaw circa 1982... wish I could buy a new one just like it as I prefer it to ANYthing on the market today...
@@NextLevelCarpentry I thought so I Just bought a used one. I don't have the two covers on it. Did yours come with them on?
@@binnsbrian Cool that you found and bought a used one... great machine for sure! Not sure what you mean about 'two covers'... explain?
@@NextLevelCarpentry Maybe the zero clearance inserts?
@@ericsmith8308 could be but I wonder if it was the dust cover over the motor?
Amen!
It's not hundreds of linear feet of hickory flooring but still a fun project.
@@NextLevelCarpentry It took me a minute to get the comment. I must be getting old!
@@curtisschmidtlein5606 Memory can be a funny thing!
Riving knife ?
Your videos are filled with great ideas and information. I always watch until the end. Some of those finished planks looked like they had some awesome figure and flame, would be great for guitar necks!
The 'figure' of this soft maple was definitely 'furniture grade' or 'instrument grade' in my estimation but not sure if soft maple is tough enough for either application when compared to hard or rock maple?
@@NextLevelCarpentry yes, you’re right about that!
WOW, that is a lot of effort to get something just a little bit different than what could be bought from a company like Windsor One or Baird but if a client is willing to pay, what the heck, go for it! I'm curious about your estimating process. How did you determine labor hours or was this a T&M project? Nice work as always BTW.
Look at it as a learning experience for someone who would like to start from scratch.
Thanks Jay. If there's one thing I've learned over the years it's that the work I find profitable takes a real paradigm shift in my thinking and approach because the whole world of bid work runs contrary to this sort of project.
FWIW I actually talked to Windsor One to see if something they had would fit the bill. The excellent rep I talk to was very receptive to providing product and their stuff is excellent quality for sure but designer and client didn't want standard nickel gap or commong vee-grooved paneling. That's the niche I try to fill and, by doing everything T&M, don't ever fret about bidding the work. If I ever did the same job twice I'd be able to bid a 2nd one but that's the thing about CUSTOM design build: there's more than enough people out there who value one-of-a-kind things that I've always turned down more projects than I accept.
That's the takeaway I hope viewers find, Dave; this is how custom millwork is done in a small-ish shop. If there's something 'off the rack' that fits the bill it's almost always less expensive, but when the job requires something one-of-a-kind, meeting the need is totally doable IMHO.
Nicely done. Well, On the project anyway. :p
Thanks.... good thing my day job is making millwork, not videography, right? 😏
@@NextLevelCarpentry May have to crank up your voice over skills.
@@lucidmoses Yeah, no kidding! If only it were just voice over... fixing the mess in this video would have been an exercise in advanced lip syncing too... not for the faint of heart for sure.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Syncing.... No need. It would never be perfect and it would be obvious by the lack of machine noise. I was thinking more like directors commentary after the fact. Your little clip you recorded to warn people would be a good cut over point. Other youtubers have done this kind of thin when they forgot to turn on the mic and their was no way to recreate the footage. Anyway. As always. up to you. Your channel. Just a suggestion.
@@lucidmoses I appreciate your perspective... at the outset I thought the closed captions would be quicker/easier but realized along the way it would have been a coin flip. By the time I realized it would have taken about the same amount of time/effort to produce voice over for a 'better' result, it was too late, practically speaking. I figure I was the only UA-camr without an 'audio team' to make me look good...
Very nice. It is a shame that such beautiful wood will be painted.
Enjoyed the video as always. I really appreciate the effort you go to in order to teach good methods (e.g. working through cutting the thin strips). I always feel I've learned something useful. I do have a question: Since you are milling the boards vs buying them and it would seem to be less work to create shiplap panels, why go with nickel gap instead? Client preference or is there some other reason?
Thanks Don. I've never liked shiplap panels for interior/finished surfaces because a 'lap joint' is more subject to issues if individual boards cup or warp since they're able to act independently of each other where nickel gap, being essentially tongue and groove, means adjacent pieces are restricted to common movement. That is to say the tongue/groove joint tends to resist movement of adjacent boards keeping the whole installation flatter over the long term. Sorry I made that sound so complicated but, to me, the little extra work milling it is worth the better look gained long term.
Since I'm quite chronologically gifted I can remind viewers that shiplap sheathing was a common 'best practice' for exterior wall sheathing in the days before plywood in the days before OSB. Back then, when dinosaurs were young, you'd be seen as a sad hack if you even considered using shiplap as a finished INTERIOR wall material but tongue and groove was quite acceptable.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks for that good reply. I continue to learn from you!
Chronologically gifted 🤣
How do you like that Makita mini saw?
I am continually Amazed with how well I like that little saw. On the face of it it's no more than a plastic toy but its power accuracy and light-weight make it my first choice for more things than you what imagine. I do resort to my previous favorite which is a six and a half inch model 367 Skil Worm Drive corded saw but that's mostly for long rips on a job site.
@@NextLevelCarpentry I too have the 6 1/2" skill saw. That 6 1/2"makita you have I don't think has a hook on it. The newer one with the hook on it has more power. I've been going through my tools and found a old 4 1/2" Porter-Cable Worm Drive saw I no longer use, it's made the USA and I think I'm going to have to get rid of it🥺
@@3dandyrandy3 Hard to let those old, faithful tools go, isn't it? I wouldn't mind more power in a newer version of the little Makita saw if it doesn't come at the expense of agility....
@@NextLevelCarpentry Great detail in that video by the way!
Its gorgeous of course, but I'm so disappointed that the soft maple with figure in a lot of places, is getting painted.
Kind of like grinding Kobe beef into hamburger, right? 🤯
Could have asked Chip to do a voiceover towards the end of the video instead of subtitles
If only I could get him to do video editing when I screw up... now THAT would be a big help!
Groat shots, sound effects AND my mind trying really hard not to hear "Nickelback"
Can't tell you how many times I caught myself saying 'Nickelback' while talking and filming... the audio track would have still been disappointing from editing all those misnomers despite the mic cable fail; nickel gap, nickel gap, nickel gap, nickel... 🤯
So much for the short format, .take it from jimmy deresta, guys at this level would appreciate less yamering,I gota eat!
Nope. All the splicing is too distracting. I can't watch this one. Sorry.
Can't say as I blame you... definitely not one to watch for entertainment, only for learning IMHO!🤯
Thanks for sharing Happy best of health and a happy new year.