Yes, get your games. Better, I mean, way, way better, and then play games near where he would see other dogs, but you’re not making him do anything except for play, “drop“, and maybe a sit here there. You’re mostly just playing in a very busy place when he is able to just glance at the dogs, but immediately come back to the game with you then I would go to adding a little heeling work. Make sure you’re having more playtime than you’re actually heeling time at first. Like for weeks. Then gradually add more work in but keep the play up. And then when you need it for real for 15 or 20 minutes somewhere he’ll be able to do it. But again, keep it fun and entertaining for him. These videos don’t always look like that because I’m explaining to the owner. I’d rather see this guy‘s tail up and him having fun more but at the expense of his state of mind in this session, I’m trying to help the owner understand what to do and look for. I hope this helps.
Yes thanks. Since I am having about of trouble with getting better at the games I‘m planning to meet up with a TWC trainer that is in my town to understand how to really get the games going.
I am working on the heel with my dog and he understands what he's supposed to do to the point he can do it offleash even if there is another person walking close by. But with passing dogs in the heel position I have troubles with. He's not reactive. He does not have a bad picture of dogs, he's very friendly and social with dogs. But that's also why he also wants to go to other dogs (in a friendly manner and curious) when try to pass dogs on walks. I don't want to constantly say "nope" and help with the pop leash every second bc he's much more interested in going in the dogs direction (for example i heel him on my right and other dog is passing on my left). What can I do to make the picture for him clearer so that he understands even when passing dogs he must stay in the heel position?
If you are really truly willing to put in the work so that you don't "have to constantly say nope and help with the leash pop every second because he's much more interested in going in the dogs direction", then you need to put in the time. The time and the effort of what I'm going to say next (over 2-3 months) will change all of that.… Does he like playing with a toy? Either a tug-style game or a retrieve-style game? If so, have that toy in your pocket and when you say "heel" and he does it for 20 or 40 feet, say break, then reach for the toy and throw it. This is the opposite of saying "no" and tugging on the leash. He will start to understand that working for a little bit will segue into a super fun game with you. But you are going to have to 'build your game' first. If you don't know how to do this, I would suggest looking at these videos from Ivan Balabanov. academy.trainingwithoutconflict.com/the-cornerstone-collection Note: do it like this in a very neutral environment for a while. Don't go right out and do this in front of a bunch of dogs and extraneous stimulus. You need to teach him that by doing a little bit of work he's going to get to play with you. Also, you need to make the game super Duper super Duper fun. If not, he's going to choose the other dogs over you any day. You need to really get into this. Highly recommend those videos.
@@leadoffleashk9training thanks, I already have the cornerstone collection and have been building up the games, but need to build them more since in more "distracting" environments he's doesn't care about play much
@@chrisvandoros1805 not the whole walk. I try to do heeling for short periods of time and then release him back to walk on his own terms. He knows what heel means and it’s much better now with distractions such as passing dogs. Sometime he breaks it before I release him because he’s curious about the dog we’re passing, but I gently remind him that we’re heeling and then we pass and I’ll „free“ him.
Yes, get your games. Better, I mean, way, way better, and then play games near where he would see other dogs, but you’re not making him do anything except for play, “drop“, and maybe a sit here there. You’re mostly just playing in a very busy place when he is able to just glance at the dogs, but immediately come back to the game with you then I would go to adding a little heeling work. Make sure you’re having more playtime than you’re actually heeling time at first. Like for weeks. Then gradually add more work in but keep the play up. And then when you need it for real for 15 or 20 minutes somewhere he’ll be able to do it. But again, keep it fun and entertaining for him. These videos don’t always look like that because I’m explaining to the owner. I’d rather see this guy‘s tail up and him having fun more but at the expense of his state of mind in this session, I’m trying to help the owner understand what to do and look for. I hope this helps.
Yes thanks. Since I am having about of trouble with getting better at the games I‘m planning to meet up with a TWC trainer that is in my town to understand how to really get the games going.
@@Ana-tn7tz great!
I am working on the heel with my dog and he understands what he's supposed to do to the point he can do it offleash even if there is another person walking close by. But with passing dogs in the heel position I have troubles with. He's not reactive. He does not have a bad picture of dogs, he's very friendly and social with dogs. But that's also why he also wants to go to other dogs (in a friendly manner and curious) when try to pass dogs on walks. I don't want to constantly say "nope" and help with the pop leash every second bc he's much more interested in going in the dogs direction (for example i heel him on my right and other dog is passing on my left). What can I do to make the picture for him clearer so that he understands even when passing dogs he must stay in the heel position?
If you are really truly willing to put in the work so that you don't "have to constantly say nope and help with the leash pop every second because he's much more interested in going in the dogs direction", then you need to put in the time. The time and the effort of what I'm going to say next (over 2-3 months) will change all of that.…
Does he like playing with a toy? Either a tug-style game or a retrieve-style game? If so, have that toy in your pocket and when you say "heel" and he does it for 20 or 40 feet, say break, then reach for the toy and throw it. This is the opposite of saying "no" and tugging on the leash. He will start to understand that working for a little bit will segue into a super fun game with you. But you are going to have to 'build your game' first. If you don't know how to do this, I would suggest looking at these videos from Ivan Balabanov. academy.trainingwithoutconflict.com/the-cornerstone-collection
Note: do it like this in a very neutral environment for a while. Don't go right out and do this in front of a bunch of dogs and extraneous stimulus. You need to teach him that by doing a little bit of work he's going to get to play with you. Also, you need to make the game super Duper super Duper fun. If not, he's going to choose the other dogs over you any day. You need to really get into this. Highly recommend those videos.
@@leadoffleashk9training thanks, I already have the cornerstone collection and have been building up the games, but need to build them more since in more "distracting" environments he's doesn't care about play much
Do you heel him all walks
@@chrisvandoros1805 not the whole walk. I try to do heeling for short periods of time and then release him back to walk on his own terms. He knows what heel means and it’s much better now with distractions such as passing dogs. Sometime he breaks it before I release him because he’s curious about the dog we’re passing, but I gently remind him that we’re heeling and then we pass and I’ll „free“ him.
@@Ana-tn7tzare you strictly with heel