Brings back old memories. My Dad bought his grandfathers old 8n ford when we moved to the farm as a kid. Never upgraded it to modern 12 volt alternator, so basically jump started it every time. I learned to drive on that old tractor.
I bought a 49 that is almost like new all original everything except battery and distributor $2300 1 year ago. We had a new 49 just like it when I was a kid. Also got the Dearborn 2 bottom plow like ours back then. Work a little garden and drive it around the yard and neighborhood. Brings back fond memories.
Hey Darrell, looking at your distributor and points orientation , it looks to me like the points are looking at cylinder number 2 instead of cylinder number 1. To correct this you would need to pull the distributor up enough to be able to move the distributor shaft one tooth toward the number one cylinder. Make sure you have the timing on 4 degrees before top dead center before doing this! This should smooth out the rough running you are.experiencing. 😊
Clean your points,you can use a match book to set them if you have no feeler gages. Old school. I'm 60 years old, my father taught me that trick. It works.
Darrell, you could possibly pin point the compression issue with a wet test. Put a little oil down the weak bores and repeat the test, compression goes up, its stuck rings , no change is a valve issue. Id say theyre just stuck or the bore is a little glazed, think some use a mix of atf and diesel to free them, have a Google. Id check the points gap and do a dynamic timing set on the ignition. So first gap the points with them sitting on the lobe in the dizzy, then wind her to the timing position, Id guess around 4-8 degrees before tdc and turn the dizzy until the points just start to open (use a multi meter on continuity across them). Great job, cant wait to see her fire 🙂👍
Thank you for your help! I’m starting to get into the engine I really hope I can get it going!! I love this tractor but it’s kinda got me stumped, I really think the distributor timing is off or somthing I dunno yet ☹️
Reading through the comments, sounds like you figured it out. I have a 52 that I got running after sitting for about 6-7 years, and you're doing much more than I initially did...lol. We just filed the points, checked for spark, added gas, and shot some starter fluid to get it rolling. Popped off one cylinder at a time for a couple minutes until all were firing and then drove it onto the trailer to haul home. BTW, I noticed the 105 shell right before you showed it. This is from a 105mm Howitzer (artillery) and not a mortar. Still used by artillery and also fired from AC-130 gunships. :)
I wish this one was that easy! points and condenser were great no corrosion at all and was getting good spark, be sure to stay tuned to part 2 to see what I find
I am needing to work on my carb and was watching in hopes I would see how to take off the throttle and choke cable. It looks like it just pops off and on easy. That helps my stress level because I’ve never worked on one either. Thanks for the video.
Watching you pull out those spark plugs with channel lock pliers.....I could almost hear my father sitting on my shoulder yelling "NO....NO....NO!!!! Use the right GD tool !!!!" He has been gone 35 years now and he still haunts me....in a good way. :) By the way, my grandfather ran his whole farm with an 8N Ford exactly like the one you are working on. Thanks.
I was in a barn far away didn’t have many tools, sockets wouldn’t fit without gas tank removed, I was planning on replacing plugs anyway, and the channel locks worked great so I’d say they were the rite tool for the job 😊 but thanks for watching my friend
At 18:40 - There was a time when spark plug sandblasters were pretty common. Someone decided that it would introduce sand into the cylinders, and it would if the sand packed up inside the plug, so, fewer people would continue to use them.
I had a lot of those tractors ,clean your points, check your condenser, and your coil. those tractors had very little oil pressure ,like 20 lbs or less. open your oil drain plug, unclean out your screen input new oil in, usually 30 wt. o[il. good luck.
Enjoyed the video, looking forward to part 2. I would take what the previous owner says. ‘It ran great when parked’ and ‘I put a fresh carb rebuild kit in it’. They ALWAYS run great when parked 🙄 And after seeing the inside of the carburetor no way did that have a rebuild kit in it. As others have said, places like YT can hook you up with everything you need 👍
Serving 8 years as a cannon crew member on a 105mm howitzer I can tell that is a howitzer casing. It holds 7 black powder charges and the shell weighs 45lbs.
Wow, my grandfather had this tractor (or it might’ve been a 42, I can’t remember for sure) it looked almost identical to this one. I remember him letting me ride on his lap driving it while plowing his garden in the mid 1980s. He used that tractor until he was no longer physically able to drive it, sometime in the mid 2000s. The last time he had it repaired, the mechanic had to machine the part that he needed. Imagine buying a piece of equipment that would stay in working order for that long, with minimal basic maintenance and being stored in a chicken house, while being used and used hard. It would never happen these days.
Could have bought a 1940 9N at an auction back in mid January but I let it go when it reached $625. ALL four tires were beyond toast but the tractor was not a rust bucket, It needed EVERYTHING but I would LOVE to have bought it as a project to screw around during retirement.
Years ago I bought a 1952 8N in Harrisonville Mo. for our farmette. I really liked it. The only thing wrong it was the 3 point hitch drifted down so I replace the valve and it would hold up the earth after that.
That machine appears to be a gem, it seems to have been cared for over the years. The 9 N was my first tractor and my favorite all around. I think you got a great deal. Good luck with it. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Enjoyable video, saved it from the crusher.... Ps, aftet 37 years in the motor trade i saw a few batteries blow up, so I learned to never bring naked flame near a lead/acid battery ...be careful mate ...
Valves could be stuck open, once it runs they will free up, these engines are a relation of a Model A Ford engine, get it running let it get warmed up, let it cool down repeat a few times rings and valves will free up with use, change all fluids oil, gearbox, coolant etc. 👍👍😉👍👍 IF you get stuck, an empty cereal box will suffice to make a gasket.
Thanks clay I did try putting atf in already and I’m getting spark at the plugs. As far as the timing goes do I turn the flywheel until it gets on the 4 degree mark? How do I set the distributor? Thanks for your help!
Yes, you take a screwdriver and turn the flywheel, using the ring gear to turn it, toward the 4degree mark. You should not need to reset your distributor because you are not moving the crankshaft that much. Be sure to check your points for proper gap and smooth contact pads.
Thank you for your help the spark plug wires were incorrect so I hooked it up like you said and it popped off a few times I then looked in the manual and the firing order is actually 1,2,4,3 and I hooked it up like that and I got it running!! But I think it’s going to need a rod bearing cause it has a little knock. Thanks for your help!!
Pt2, after leaving the transmission fluid in the motor for those days, take out all of the spark plugs, and crank it with the battery to blow out the transmission fluid from the engine, also drain the old oil and filter, and replace it with new oil and filter. Then recheck the compression of the engine.
$500.00 is about right. There’s a lot that can end up as an expensive problem. The fact it that this tractor has been sitting around for way too long and there’s need like the starter, the hydrolics that may be a problem. Good luck!
Pore some transmission fluid into the Sparkplug holes, and let it set for about two days, and turn the motor over by hand after those days, then add more, and keep turning it every few days. Pt2
Unless you were using a "smart charger" the problem was most likely the battery and not the starter. I had quite the experience as a forklift mechanic trying to jumpstart stored forklifts at our dealer and if those batteries were stone cold beyond dead, no amount of jumpstart attempts or charger boosts are going to get that thing to turn over. If anything, 12 volts boost should have made that starter sing like an athlete on steroids. The dead battery was probably sucking in all the juice.
Cool I cringe when people make it a big deal that I use pliers instead of a wrench or socket, btw they aren’t called pliers they are called channel locks. like who cares if I use them I didn’t bring a bunch of tools with me and the channel locks were close and I didn’t mess the bolt head up. Goodness these people in the comments live a little bit and don’t worry about petty things
Turn distributor fully anti clockwise turn the engine over turn the distributor slowly clockwise when she reaches the sweat spot she'll come up adjust from there. works on my 1950s Ferguson's every time good luck.
Here's one of my famous tricks for oil bath air cleaner first clean the cleaner real good with some solvent and then use Dexron transmission fluid instead of oil we'll make the filter filter 3 times better and you can overfill it just a little bit too helpless lubricate the valves that's dextran fluid instead of oil
when I rebuilt an 8n 35 years ago, the hardest part after I built a sleeve puller with a lathe and mill and 1" steel and 1" hardened threaded rod, was pulling and installing the sleeves.
The value of your tractor is about S 400.00 to $500. There seems to be a lot of work. An engine rebuild sounds about right. Even though you’ve got some work, the Tractor will Provide you with good work. Best to you.
I just found your channel page or what ever you call it. But anyways where did you find the spark plug sand blaster at??? That is cool and I would like to get one. It seems easier than a wire brush. Keep up the good videos!!!
thank you!! however I’d recommend against getting one because the spark plug can hold sand in it then fall into the engine so you have to clean the plug very well
Remember those who are not used to 6V systems, Always hook up the NEG first!!! This is a POS Ground!!! Learned my lesson when I was like 14,, jumped started a car, OLD, 6V system, hooked up the Pos first, then NEG,, Dont do that!!! Tried to jump it, Red to POS, Neg to Blk.. Did NOT GO WELL!!! Blew the battery!!! Life Lesson!!
Mix gasoline and 30 weight oil 50/50 gasoline add tbsp each cylinder replace plugs and give a try. I use this method to start all old engines you'll be surprised
The compression is great. Rings and valves will only get better after running. It is spark. Not timing, weak spark. Using a woman's emery board nail file on the points will make your spark hot. Slide a dry piece of paper through the points after cleaning them to get all the grit off.. Your spark is too weak. Just seeing spark is not good enough. It has to be hot blue spark. Of course not cleaning and setting the points to a gap of probably 27 thousandths and she will not pop off. I noticed the rotor was not pointed at #1 plug, unless you never had the distributer cap down and correctly set in position. If that cap was down in it's position your rotor was one tooth off. Might possibly be the first time ever I have seen spark plug removal with channel locks, whatever.
$450 to 600 tops if the tires held air over night....remember it's crusty and your time is worth something. I over spent on mine, still don't regret it....there great tractors...
Great video Darrell, only halfway through, must watch the rest later. If I was you I'd put will it start in the title, description and tags so that you get more traffic on it. This has the potential to be a big one 🙂👍
That 's a spark plug cleaner. I brought one from Snap-on about 30 years ago for about $15. There should be sand blasting material in the bottom. You insert the spark in the hole in the top and connect shop to the air quick connect. When you push the button air circulates the sand and cleans the spark plug.
They’re also a good way to ruin a top end. Often that blasting media stays up in the spark plug and falls into the cylinder while running. Briggs and straton had a technical service bulletin on it several decades ago. Not worth the risk in my opinion.
You want to get out of the habit of using pliers to undo nuts and bolts. It's the fastest way to round of the nut or bolt. Use the correct size spanner for the nuts and bolts they will last longer.
Common man I have every tool imaginable I just didn’t bring some of the rite sizes with me, did you not watch later in the videos were I took the spark plugs out with a actual spark plug socket? And really who cares if I used channel locks to take a spark plug out?! I got it out didn’t I? So actually if the tool works then it’s the “correct” tool, and no I didn’t mess up the spark plug by doing this
A failed head gasket between two cylinders can cause low compression on those two cylinders.. rust on the valve is another possibility. Before I took that one apart I would put s little marvel mystery oil down the spark plug hole and let it sit a couple days, blow the oil out before you crack it with the plugs in.
spark plug cleaner like a mini sand blaster add air and blasting compound put spark plug in end and hit the button ( the one i had in the early 90 never worked right had to rotate it)
Great deal I believe those compression #s will improve but if you have to get into the engine these are fairly simple after you block it up and remove the front end that engine is sitting out there nice easy to tear down the block. Good luck. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Thanks for sharing, but a bit anti-climatic ;-) Just watch a few dozen Mustie1 videos and you'll know how to troubleshoot a carbureted engine. Don't use sand to clean a spark plug, the sand imbeds into the plug cavity and later releases into the cylinder.... bad, very bad. See Taryl Fixes All for details.
Thank you for watching, I’ve watched all of musties and taryls videos along with a bunch others like watch Wes work..ect when I use the spark plug cleaner I make sure all the tiny particles are blown out with compressed air and brake clean. I got the tractor running but there are some more surprises so be sure to look out for part 2! Thanks again brother and check out my other videos!
I have a 52 8n good tractors . I switched mine over to 12 volt system mine does have the front grill also . I was brush beating a few years ago and the front grill fall I didn’t no it till I ran over it with the brush beater.
try to read a manual on timing the engine and then get it as close as possible, after that its all about fine tuning it... do that by swinging it and then rotating the cap back in fourth untill it starts coughing
IT SOUNDS LIKE ITS COMING FROM A ROD KNOCKING BUT ILL TRY TOMM, IM GONNA MAKE A VIDEO OF IT SOON AND TAKE OFF THE OIL PAN AND SEE WHAT THE ROD BEARINGS LOOK LIKE
love just watching someone on youtube just doing work and not running their mouth the whole time. 'preciate ya.
thanks man!
Dont watch puddins fab shop or vice grip garage then😂😂
Brings back old memories. My Dad bought his grandfathers old 8n ford when we moved to the farm as a kid. Never upgraded it to modern 12 volt alternator, so basically jump started it every time. I learned to drive on that old tractor.
The good all days. Thank you very much for watching. I appreciate it.
I bought a 49 that is almost like new all original everything except battery and distributor $2300 1 year ago. We had a new 49 just like it when I was a kid. Also got the Dearborn 2 bottom plow like ours back then. Work a little garden and drive it around the yard and neighborhood. Brings back fond memories.
that is so cool I really appreciate the comment. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Awesome, another great project , thank you for sharing, i learn a lot eatch your project, have a nice day 👍👍👍👍
Thanks, you too!
The answer is yes... they always run... one of best built tractors of all time
Lol yes they are just wish it had live hydraulics!!
These old Ford's 2n,8n, and 9n is where the phrase "Like money in the bank" applies. Great find, PS also goes for Farmall AV and A's good luck ☝️
Hey Darrell, looking at your distributor and points orientation , it looks to me like the points are looking at cylinder number 2 instead of cylinder number 1. To correct this you would need to pull the distributor up enough to be able to move the distributor shaft one tooth toward the number one cylinder. Make sure you have the timing on 4 degrees before top dead center before doing this! This should smooth out the rough running you are.experiencing. 😊
thanks brother
Clean your points,you can use a match book to set them if you have no feeler gages. Old school. I'm 60 years old, my father taught me that trick. It works.
thanks James check out my other vids on it if u want
It's POSITIVE ground ! I run a 6v starter on a 12v converted 52 and it works great. Champion R12 spark plugs work well.
I know it’s positive ground I mention that in the video, thanks for watching!
Those back tires will cost you more than a tractor all of those tires have tubes in them. They’ll last forever.
one tire is basically new and the other will last a long long time
Darrell, you could possibly pin point the compression issue with a wet test. Put a little oil down the weak bores and repeat the test, compression goes up, its stuck rings , no change is a valve issue. Id say theyre just stuck or the bore is a little glazed, think some use a mix of atf and diesel to free them, have a Google. Id check the points gap and do a dynamic timing set on the ignition. So first gap the points with them sitting on the lobe in the dizzy, then wind her to the timing position, Id guess around 4-8 degrees before tdc and turn the dizzy until the points just start to open (use a multi meter on continuity across them). Great job, cant wait to see her fire 🙂👍
Thank you for your help! I’m starting to get into the engine I really hope I can get it going!! I love this tractor but it’s kinda got me stumped, I really think the distributor timing is off or somthing I dunno yet ☹️
@@TheHomePros6221 you'll get there Darrell 🙂👍
VGG will be proud of you using the approved battery post cable removal tool.
Hahah he sure would!
Reading through the comments, sounds like you figured it out. I have a 52 that I got running after sitting for about 6-7 years, and you're doing much more than I initially did...lol. We just filed the points, checked for spark, added gas, and shot some starter fluid to get it rolling. Popped off one cylinder at a time for a couple minutes until all were firing and then drove it onto the trailer to haul home. BTW, I noticed the 105 shell right before you showed it. This is from a 105mm Howitzer (artillery) and not a mortar. Still used by artillery and also fired from AC-130 gunships. :)
I wish this one was that easy! points and condenser were great no corrosion at all and was getting good spark, be sure to stay tuned to part 2 to see what I find
If you got THAT tractor for 700, you did really good! Especially having that Sherman auxillary transmission in it.
this one actually doesn’t have the auxiliary Sherman transmission, unfortunately
I am needing to work on my carb and was watching in hopes I would see how to take off the throttle and choke cable. It looks like it just pops off and on easy. That helps my stress level because I’ve never worked on one either. Thanks for the video.
they are super easy to work on the carbs are very simple
Watching you pull out those spark plugs with channel lock pliers.....I could almost hear my father sitting on my shoulder yelling "NO....NO....NO!!!! Use the right GD tool !!!!"
He has been gone 35 years now and he still haunts me....in a good way. :) By the way, my grandfather ran his whole farm with an 8N Ford exactly like the one you are working on. Thanks.
I was in a barn far away didn’t have many tools, sockets wouldn’t fit without gas tank removed, I was planning on replacing plugs anyway, and the channel locks worked great so I’d say they were the rite tool for the job 😊 but thanks for watching my friend
At 18:40 - There was a time when spark plug sandblasters were pretty common. Someone decided that it would introduce sand into the cylinders, and it would if the sand packed up inside the plug, so, fewer people would continue to use them.
you are absolutely correct
I had a lot of those tractors ,clean your points, check your condenser, and your coil. those tractors had very little oil pressure ,like 20 lbs or less. open your oil drain plug, unclean out your screen input new oil in, usually 30 wt. o[il. good luck.
Thanks for the tips! my friend!!
Enjoyed the video, looking forward to part 2. I would take what the previous owner says. ‘It ran great when parked’ and ‘I put a fresh carb rebuild kit in it’. They ALWAYS run great when parked 🙄
And after seeing the inside of the carburetor no way did that have a rebuild kit in it. As others have said, places like YT can hook you up with everything you need 👍
hahah I know rite!! it was running when parked, they say!! haha it just needs a carb clean! lol
Serving 8 years as a cannon crew member on a 105mm howitzer I can tell that is a howitzer casing. It holds 7 black powder charges and the shell weighs 45lbs.
Wow, my grandfather had this tractor (or it might’ve been a 42, I can’t remember for sure) it looked almost identical to this one. I remember him letting me ride on his lap driving it while plowing his garden in the mid 1980s. He used that tractor until he was no longer physically able to drive it, sometime in the mid 2000s. The last time he had it repaired, the mechanic had to machine the part that he needed. Imagine buying a piece of equipment that would stay in working order for that long, with minimal basic maintenance and being stored in a chicken house, while being used and used hard. It would never happen these days.
that is so awesome thank you for sharing!!
Nice video, saved that thing from the scrapper for sure. Looking forward to part2.
THANKS BROTHER!!
I’ve never seen that before. Very cool
Thank you but what haven’t u seen before?
Could have bought a 1940 9N at an auction back in mid January but I let it go when it reached $625. ALL four tires were beyond toast but the tractor was not a rust bucket, It needed EVERYTHING but I would LOVE to have bought it as a project to screw around during retirement.
they really are useful machines and really easy to work on this tractor was the best 700$ I think I’ve ever spent
I was glad to see you squirt some WD-40 down inside the cylinders. One should always do that for engines that have been sitting for years,
yes sir I always spray lube in the cyl when sitting a long time
@@TheHomePros6221 I see quite a few videos where they don't bother
Awesome! Love these tractor's! I have a 1950 8n myself. Would not take a new tractor for it!!!
Right on! they are tough and well made!
Years ago I bought a 1952 8N in Harrisonville Mo. for our farmette. I really liked it. The only thing wrong it was the 3 point hitch drifted down so I replace the valve and it would hold up the earth after that.
That’s awesome Tom!!
beautiful machine
boy this guy is a real expert
I’m guessing that’s sarcasm
That machine appears to be a gem, it seems to have been cared for over the years. The 9 N was my first tractor and my favorite all around. I think you got a great deal. Good luck with it. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Thank you for the wonderful comment! I’m in georgia/Alabama Jacksonville is a nice place
Enjoyable video, saved it from the crusher....
Ps, aftet 37 years in the motor trade i saw a few batteries blow up, so I learned to never bring naked flame near a lead/acid battery ...be careful mate ...
Thanks for the advice brother
I am tickled you got it running!
YES SIR THANKS TO YOU REALLY!
Valves could be stuck open, once it runs they will free up, these engines are a relation of a Model A Ford engine, get it running let it get warmed up, let it cool down repeat a few times rings and valves will free up with use, change all fluids oil, gearbox, coolant etc. 👍👍😉👍👍 IF you get stuck, an empty cereal box will suffice to make a gasket.
Thanks Barry I rebuild the engine in the other vids
A little engine oil (about 1 tablespoon ) in each cylinder will help seal the rings some. Timing should be 4 degrees before top dead center..
Also, check the plugs out of the head to make sure they are getting spark through them.
Thanks clay I did try putting atf in already and I’m getting spark at the plugs. As far as the timing goes do I turn the flywheel until it gets on the 4 degree mark? How do I set the distributor? Thanks for your help!
Yes, you take a screwdriver and turn the flywheel, using the ring gear to turn it, toward the 4degree mark. You should not need to reset your distributor because you are not moving the crankshaft that much. Be sure to check your points for proper gap and smooth contact pads.
Make sure you have the correct spark plug wires going to the correct cylinder. Your tractor's firing order is 1,4,2,3.
Thank you for your help the spark plug wires were incorrect so I hooked it up like you said and it popped off a few times I then looked in the manual and the firing order is actually 1,2,4,3 and I hooked it up like that and I got it running!! But I think it’s going to need a rod bearing cause it has a little knock. Thanks for your help!!
looks like you need to rig some kind of overhead 'light duty' crane system to help with stuff like that hood.
Fresh set of points, condenser, check coil. Dull spark. Get it running & valves & rings loosen up for more compression also.
yes sirr
The casing the owner gave you is a 105 mm howitzer artillery shell, not a mortar.
Yup thanks aaron
Pt2, after leaving the transmission fluid in the motor for those days, take out all of the spark plugs, and crank it with the battery to blow out the transmission fluid from the engine, also drain the old oil and filter, and replace it with new oil and filter. Then recheck the compression of the engine.
$500.00 is about right. There’s a lot that can end up as an expensive problem. The fact it that this tractor has been sitting around for way too long and there’s need like the starter, the hydrolics that may be a problem. Good luck!
Pore some transmission fluid into the Sparkplug holes, and let it set for about two days, and turn the motor over by hand after those days, then add more, and keep turning it every few days. Pt2
Brings back great memories. $800
I bet.. those were the good old days, when men were men
The Shell is from a 105mm howitzer artillery piece. Not a morter at all great content and good mechanics. Y'all be careful out there.
Thank u so much William!!
Unless you were using a "smart charger" the problem was most likely the battery and not the starter. I had quite the experience as a forklift mechanic trying to jumpstart stored forklifts at our dealer and if those batteries were stone cold beyond dead, no amount of jumpstart attempts or charger boosts are going to get that thing to turn over. If anything, 12 volts boost should have made that starter sing like an athlete on steroids. The dead battery was probably sucking in all the juice.
I cringe every time I see somebody like you using pliers instead of a
Cool I cringe when people make it a big deal that I use pliers instead of a wrench or socket, btw they aren’t called pliers they are called channel locks. like who cares if I use them I didn’t bring a bunch of tools with me and the channel locks were close and I didn’t mess the bolt head up. Goodness these people in the comments live a little bit and don’t worry about petty things
Turn distributor fully anti clockwise turn the engine over turn the distributor slowly clockwise when she reaches the sweat spot she'll come up adjust from there.
works on my 1950s Ferguson's every time good luck.
I’ll give it a try
Here's one of my famous tricks for oil bath air cleaner first clean the cleaner real good with some solvent and then use Dexron transmission fluid instead of oil we'll make the filter filter 3 times better and you can overfill it just a little bit too helpless lubricate the valves that's dextran fluid instead of oil
Great info!!
😮
Better than being left outside for a few years. Its definitely worth an extra few hundred.
when I rebuilt an 8n 35 years ago, the hardest part after I built a sleeve puller with a lathe and mill and 1" steel and 1" hardened threaded rod, was pulling and installing the sleeves.
cool
Looks like what Judy Garland was driving in the movie Summerstock. Nice, looks like you are getting a good deal.
sure does! thank u very much
The value of your tractor is about S 400.00 to $500. There
seems to be a lot of work. An engine rebuild sounds about right. Even though you’ve got some work, the Tractor will
Provide you with good work. Best to you.
I just found your channel page or what ever you call it.
But anyways where did you find the spark plug sand blaster at???
That is cool and I would like to get one. It seems easier than a wire brush.
Keep up the good videos!!!
thank you!! however I’d recommend against getting one because the spark plug can hold sand in it then fall into the engine so you have to clean the plug very well
Remember those who are not used to 6V systems, Always hook up the NEG first!!! This is a POS Ground!!! Learned my lesson when I was like 14,, jumped started a car, OLD, 6V system, hooked up the Pos first, then NEG,, Dont do that!!! Tried to jump it, Red to POS, Neg to Blk.. Did NOT GO WELL!!! Blew the battery!!! Life Lesson!!
good tip. Thank you.
It's like a cooking show only better
Lol
Enjoyed part 1
Mix gasoline and 30 weight oil 50/50 gasoline add tbsp each cylinder replace plugs and give a try. I use this method to start all old engines you'll be surprised
Thanks for sharing
I rescued my by giving it to my grandson!
I bet he was happy!!
The compression is great. Rings and valves will only get better after running. It is spark. Not timing, weak spark. Using a woman's emery board nail file on the points will make your spark hot. Slide a dry piece of paper through the points after cleaning them to get all the grit off.. Your spark is too weak. Just seeing spark is not good enough. It has to be hot blue spark. Of course not cleaning and setting the points to a gap of probably 27 thousandths and she will not pop off. I noticed the rotor was not pointed at #1 plug, unless you never had the distributer cap down and correctly set in position. If that cap was down in it's position your rotor was one tooth off. Might possibly be the first time ever I have seen spark plug removal with channel locks, whatever.
it’s been running pretty good check out other vids if u want 🙂
Just so you know that since it's a 6 volt system you can use a 8 volt battery and it will turn over faster.
@@thomasschimdt5217 nice to know!!
$450 to 600 tops if the tires held air over night....remember it's crusty and your time is worth something. I over spent on mine, still don't regret it....there great tractors...
I think I payed 700 maybe a tad to much but got it running and use it all the time 😊
have you cleaned the points?
yes sir check out my other vids on it
Great video Darrell, only halfway through, must watch the rest later. If I was you I'd put will it start in the title, description and tags so that you get more traffic on it. This has the potential to be a big one 🙂👍
Thanks Dave!! I really need a new computer somthing that can put text on the thumbnail pictures
@@TheHomePros6221 Mail them to me if you want in the meanwhile and ill add text for you if you tell me what you need.
Thank you Dave I’m going to see if my neighbors computer will do it, if not I’ll give u a holler, I hope you are doing well!!!
@@TheHomePros6221 No problem! All good here, been busy though, must get a video out in the next few days!
That 's a spark plug cleaner. I brought one from Snap-on about 30 years ago for about $15. There should be sand blasting material in the bottom. You insert the spark in the hole in the top and connect shop to the air quick connect. When you push the button air circulates the sand and cleans the spark plug.
You of course are absolutely correct!! Thanks for commenting
They’re also a good way to ruin a top end. Often that blasting media stays up in the spark plug and falls into the cylinder while running. Briggs and straton had a technical service bulletin on it several decades ago. Not worth the risk in my opinion.
Thanks for the tip!
@@TheHomePros6221 absolutely. Nice work 👍🏻
You want to get out of the habit of using pliers to undo nuts and bolts. It's the fastest way to round of the nut or bolt. Use the correct size spanner for the nuts and bolts they will last longer.
I know I had limited tools with me, be sure to watch my other videos
This tractor is 2 years older than me😉
you old fart haha just kidding 😁
$1500 if it ran ... $600 - $800 as it sits. They used to be worth a lot more before the subcompact craze.
Yea that’s what I was thinking
Do you have any actual wrenches at all? If you do, you need to put those pliers down and use the proper wrench.
I don’t own any wrenches only pliers, do u wanna buy me some 🤣
@@TheHomePros6221 I'll give you some if it'll make you get rid of the pliers. :~)
Haha
In 1952 ford introduced the Ford 8N with a side mount distributor also in 1952 was the last year of production for the ford 8N
Yes sir
Did you check the plugs for fire
I did Also check out my playlist on the tractor if you haven’t already
Ok you are young so I guess you are doing the best you can
yes thank you
Hope owner saves the barn, ones in my state have been left to ruin
I wish they would to but I think they tore it down ☹️
first thing i wood do is buy some tools pliers are NOT for taking bolts loose
Common man I have every tool imaginable I just didn’t bring some of the rite sizes with me, did you not watch later in the videos were I took the spark plugs out with a actual spark plug socket? And really who cares if I used channel locks to take a spark plug out?! I got it out didn’t I? So actually if the tool works then it’s the “correct” tool, and no I didn’t mess up the spark plug by doing this
A failed head gasket between two cylinders can cause low compression on those two cylinders.. rust on the valve is another possibility. Before I took that one apart I would put s little marvel mystery oil down the spark plug hole and let it sit a couple days, blow the oil out before you crack it with the plugs in.
thanks for the great info
Spray starting m g liud. In carb
spark plug cleaner like a mini sand blaster add air and blasting compound put spark plug in end and hit the button ( the one i had in the early 90 never worked right had to rotate it)
Good deal man! Most people prob don’t know what it is, thanks for watching
I remember Sears and JC Whitney selling them.
Brass shell still has an unfired firing pin. Be careful. Can explode. At least have someone verify what I am saying.
thank u
That's correct, I have one
Thanks!
Did you disconnect the ground wire on the rebuild
yes
Naked flame over the battery?
yes I know I know
I believe that shell is for a M101A1 howitzer not a mortar.
You are correct
Have confirmed fire to plugs?
Yes watch part 2
I have an 8N, I don't think it's positive ground. Had mine for 25 years. Just painting and restoring it now.
cool good luck on it A lot of people changed the positive ground to negative ground but mine is 100% Positive ground
Nice old tractor! Hope you get it running, have you tried cleaning the points?
Yes I have
Watch part 2 I got it running
Great deal I believe those compression #s will improve but if you have to get into the engine these are fairly simple after you block it up and remove the front end that engine is sitting out there nice easy to tear down the block. Good luck. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
I did get it running and they did improve, stay tuned for part 2, and thanks again for watching!
Check the points inside the distributor and make sure they are at 17 thousandths clean them with a finger nail file. Make sure they are not corroded
I did check out other vids my friend
It not a mortar shell, it's a 105mm artillery round, mortars are much smaller. Anyway, great job on the tractor.
Thank you so much!
You are so welcome, enjoy your videos, I grew up on a farm in Pennsylvania, USA, we had a few old tractors.
That’s awesome my friend!! 🙂
Thanks for sharing, but a bit anti-climatic ;-) Just watch a few dozen Mustie1 videos and you'll know how to troubleshoot a carbureted engine. Don't use sand to clean a spark plug, the sand imbeds into the plug cavity and later releases into the cylinder.... bad, very bad. See Taryl Fixes All for details.
Thank you for watching, I’ve watched all of musties and taryls videos along with a bunch others like watch Wes work..ect when I use the spark plug cleaner I make sure all the tiny particles are blown out with compressed air and brake clean. I got the tractor running but there are some more surprises so be sure to look out for part 2! Thanks again brother and check out my other videos!
Are those channelock pliers SAE or metric? Looks like they'll fit anything!
hahahahah
1952 was the last year of the 8n ,, the jubelee came out in 1953 ...
You are correct
I haven't seen a spark plug blaster in more than 50 years.
Coolant is not low. If you fill it up and run it till it's hot , you'll see.
Thanks! Yea I didn’t look really low
Is there a part 2?
Yes
Check my channel or description
I have a 52 8n good tractors . I switched mine over to 12 volt system mine does have the front grill also . I was brush beating a few years ago and the front grill fall I didn’t no it till I ran over it with the brush beater.
omg wow!!
set points, starting fluid,
yes sir
try to read a manual on timing the engine and then get it as close as possible, after that its all about fine tuning it... do that by swinging it and then rotating the cap back in fourth untill it starts coughing
Yes sir thank you part 2 should be coming very soon!
spark plug cleaner. totally junk. gets sand in the cylinders.
Not if u clean the plugs out well after
@@TheHomePros6221 they still use these on aircraft and they use a special blasting media [not sand]
dude, invest in a spark checker and a trouble light with a probe on the end
I have all of that
Pleasure to watch wish I could afford one
thank you so much my friend
Geoff here in australia do you own any proper spaners or only pipe crips.
WTH is a pipe crisp
Did you try fine tuning the distributor? That can smooth out the engine some and may cut down the knocking sound some.
IT SOUNDS LIKE ITS COMING FROM A ROD KNOCKING BUT ILL TRY TOMM, IM GONNA MAKE A VIDEO OF IT SOON AND TAKE OFF THE OIL PAN AND SEE WHAT THE ROD BEARINGS LOOK LIKE
Do you actually have any spanners?
I have tons of wrenches, but sometimes I like using what is close by and easies
You may have stuck rings. Pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in it, crank it over and then recheck the compression.
it’s running really good now check other vids