I’ve used the nipper and the wheels. I’d encourage wearing eye protection. I’ve felt tiny bits coming of the wheel hitting my face. No need for metal in the eyes.
If you need to cut a gap in the rails after the track has been laid, I think the Dremel tool is the best approach. The concern is tearing the rails out of the ties. If the rails are glued down, that is likely enough protection, but if you've only used rail tacks, make sure that there are some rail tacks close to where you want the gap. The flush-cutting pliers could be used in this situation, but I find it awkward (and more likely to damage the track). By the way, if I had it to do again, I would cut the rails before installing them, providing for the gaps. That way, I could install insulated track joiners. Given that I didn't do this, I install insulated gaps by using pieces of styrene, super glued into the gaps.
Steve, you could add a jeweler’s jig under the miter box. So, you can clamp the whole contraption to your workbench and then clamp the track on the miter box base! Thanks 🙏 for sharing.
I was thinking of one day making an HO scale/OO gauge outdoor model railway but the worry of thermal expansion popped into my head. Watching this encouraged me that it would be a good idea to use a Dremel to cut into every 2 or 3 metres of pinned down track (although the sleepers/ties can remain intact) and solder some wire across the cut rails to maintain electrical conductivity.
Hi Steve, good video, I use Dremel all the time but with a slightly large size disk (38 mm, 1.5”) and as thin as possible. That way I can even cut rail after it has been glued down to, for example, create separate sections. What I also find handy is to use the flexible arm with the Dremel, gives you just that much more manoeuvrability.
Hello Abbo. I hope you will see this message. I am really struggling with finding the disks that will cut with this method so it will be 90degrees to the track surface. Please could you help me with more detail on what tools you use to do this. It seems that the size of the rotary Dremel is larger than that of the rotary disks. Really hope you see this and you can help. Ryan
@@ryanharlow4973 hi Ryan, that would be the Dremel 540, although 32 mm instead of 38. Do invest in an flexible arm for your Dremel as that makes making good cuts so much easier, guaranteed you will be happy with it. Nowadays Dremelalso has these easyclick disks, these are 38 mm but don’t know how thick. Good luck👍
A way to cut the track is a Atlas Super Saw . For N and HO scale . Flextracks code 80 and 100 Atlas . Curved the flextrack and cut the rail with the Atlas Super Saw . My friend Nacho said me what with the saw for track cut the rail of the flextracks . Ist used for cut the flextracks .
Sorry the focus is wonky at times. Still learning how to use my new camera and different lenses. It is hard to tell the focus is off until you look at the video on a larger screen than the 3" screen on the camera.
If you are referring to cutting more ties off one side to allow for sliding the rail joiner on, yes I do that in some cases depending on the installation, especially if installing on the layout itself. If I'm soldering pieces together at the workbench, then I don't usually have to worry about that.
The razor saw option is out, but the other options work the same. The main thing is just making sure the rail lengths are correct after the cuts are made. It if it is a piece of sectional track, then you can use another piece of track that is the same radius to use as a template for marking the piece you want to cut in order to make sure you make the cuts on each rail even. It is a little trickier with flex track, and usually you have to tack the track in place on the layout to get the proper curve, and then mark the track and make the cut.
great video, do you think you will ever start another n scale project really enjoyed the small layout you did, evan a nice switching project with sceanery
Yes, I already have plans for a few more...but hard to say when any of them will get started. Besides my HO switching layout I still have one more module section to finish up for the modular N scale layout that is mostly for taking to train shows and such. I plan to build a larger door-sized N scale layout, as well as a couple more micro-type layouts, one in N scale and one in HO, and maybe an On30 one just so I have an excuse to build some tall pine trees. I'll probably do an N scale switching layout at some point as well. The HO one is going to recycle items from my current 5x10 foot HO layout which is scheduled to come apart in late June during some home remodeling work.
As a side note, I'll have another video out today or tomorrow on the 2x3 foot N scale layout. I took clips from all 32 videos in that series and put them together into one 11 minute video that shows the shows the whole construction. Mostly it was just for fun since I haven't had a chance to do any actual model railroad work the last few weeks because of a crazy work and home schedule, travel, etc. Tons of school things going on right now with the end of the school year.
I normally just use the jewlers files I have. Any small, flat file should work, but make sure it is one with a fine texture so you don't leave deep grooves on the track.
A dremel or other rotary tool will probably be easiest for G scale, though for rail that large even a hack saw used for cutting metal would probably work well as long as you clamp the trck down well so you don't tear out the rails from the ties.
I’ve used the nipper and the wheels. I’d encourage wearing eye protection. I’ve felt tiny bits coming of the wheel hitting my face. No need for metal in the eyes.
If you need to cut a gap in the rails after the track has been laid, I think the Dremel tool is the best approach. The concern is tearing the rails out of the ties. If the rails are glued down, that is likely enough protection, but if you've only used rail tacks, make sure that there are some rail tacks close to where you want the gap. The flush-cutting pliers could be used in this situation, but I find it awkward (and more likely to damage the track). By the way, if I had it to do again, I would cut the rails before installing them, providing for the gaps. That way, I could install insulated track joiners. Given that I didn't do this, I install insulated gaps by using pieces of styrene, super glued into the gaps.
Yes, Dremel with a ceramic disk is the best, cleanest and most accurate!
Thank you for saving me time and effort with your well thought out experience!
Dad always used the saw without the miter box. I think I'll try the Dremel
Steve, you could add a jeweler’s jig under the miter box. So, you can clamp the whole contraption to your workbench and then clamp the track on the miter box base!
Thanks 🙏 for sharing.
Good idea!
Atlas Super Saw.
For cut the flextracks.
HO and N scale.
Code 80 and 100.
I was thinking of one day making an HO scale/OO gauge outdoor model railway but the worry of thermal expansion popped into my head. Watching this encouraged me that it would be a good idea to use a Dremel to cut into every 2 or 3 metres of pinned down track (although the sleepers/ties can remain intact) and solder some wire across the cut rails to maintain electrical conductivity.
thats indeed what most people use for layouts,. Also seems to be a very reliable method, instead of relying on connectors to transmit electricity.
Thanks Steve, some very useful tips there!
Hi Steve, good video, I use Dremel all the time but with a slightly large size disk (38 mm, 1.5”) and as thin as possible. That way I can even cut rail after it has been glued down to, for example, create separate sections.
What I also find handy is to use the flexible arm with the Dremel, gives you just that much more manoeuvrability.
Hello Abbo. I hope you will see this message. I am really struggling with finding the disks that will cut with this method so it will be 90degrees to the track surface. Please could you help me with more detail on what tools you use to do this. It seems that the size of the rotary Dremel is larger than that of the rotary disks. Really hope you see this and you can help. Ryan
@@ryanharlow4973 hi Ryan, that would be the Dremel 540, although 32 mm instead of 38. Do invest in an flexible arm for your Dremel as that makes making good cuts so much easier, guaranteed you will be happy with it. Nowadays Dremelalso has these easyclick disks, these are 38 mm but don’t know how thick. Good luck👍
Dremel definitely the best option !!
Tried all and wins hands down.
They are pricey but a brilliant quality tool.
The Dremel Tool is worth the one time price.
Good stuff cheers for this mate!! Will be experimenting
Great video !! You gave me a good way to cut my flex track. The Dremel is the way to go !!!
Glad it helped!
Great advice
So far I haven't ever cut any flex track - but I will be doing so on the next layout. And I'll probably use my Dremel for that purpose.
hi Steve.. great demo.. thanks for sharing... vinny
thanks for sharing, now i can cut a turnout with success for my Gantlet track im doing
Hi Steve I do the third way.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
A way to cut the track is a Atlas Super Saw . For N and HO scale . Flextracks code 80 and 100 Atlas . Curved the flextrack and cut the rail with the Atlas Super Saw .
My friend Nacho said me what with the saw for track cut the rail of the flextracks . Ist used for cut the flextracks .
Hi Steve. Dremel for me. Working in n scale, small burrs can be a problem because everything is tiny.
Sorry the focus is wonky at times. Still learning how to use my new camera and different lenses. It is hard to tell the focus is off until you look at the video on a larger screen than the 3" screen on the camera.
my dad came up with a small 2 x 4 that has grooves in it to hold the HO track in place and you can cut track then anywhere and hold it in place
That is a great idea!
@@StevesTrains it works great. get a nice straight cut and no moving of the track ur trying to cut.
thank you for the video. can i ask why you dont cut one side a bit longer to allow for the rail clip ?
If you are referring to cutting more ties off one side to allow for sliding the rail joiner on, yes I do that in some cases depending on the installation, especially if installing on the layout itself. If I'm soldering pieces together at the workbench, then I don't usually have to worry about that.
I always use a file to make installing rail joiners easier
Thanks for the video. It was a help. But, you showed doing straight sections. How does one cut curved sections with unequal rail lengths?
The razor saw option is out, but the other options work the same. The main thing is just making sure the rail lengths are correct after the cuts are made. It if it is a piece of sectional track, then you can use another piece of track that is the same radius to use as a template for marking the piece you want to cut in order to make sure you make the cuts on each rail even. It is a little trickier with flex track, and usually you have to tack the track in place on the layout to get the proper curve, and then mark the track and make the cut.
great video, do you think you will ever start another n scale project really enjoyed the small layout you did, evan a nice switching project with sceanery
Yes, I already have plans for a few more...but hard to say when any of them will get started. Besides my HO switching layout I still have one more module section to finish up for the modular N scale layout that is mostly for taking to train shows and such. I plan to build a larger door-sized N scale layout, as well as a couple more micro-type layouts, one in N scale and one in HO, and maybe an On30 one just so I have an excuse to build some tall pine trees. I'll probably do an N scale switching layout at some point as well. The HO one is going to recycle items from my current 5x10 foot HO layout which is scheduled to come apart in late June during some home remodeling work.
As a side note, I'll have another video out today or tomorrow on the 2x3 foot N scale layout. I took clips from all 32 videos in that series and put them together into one 11 minute video that shows the shows the whole construction. Mostly it was just for fun since I haven't had a chance to do any actual model railroad work the last few weeks because of a crazy work and home schedule, travel, etc. Tons of school things going on right now with the end of the school year.
Are the rail nippers the same as spru snips?
Basically yes. Just don’t use the same pair for both. Keep one for plastic and one for rail/metal.
Which is the best file to use to file down track?
I normally just use the jewlers files I have. Any small, flat file should work, but make sure it is one with a fine texture so you don't leave deep grooves on the track.
Good vid. It would have been much better if we could see close-up. You went fast.
Hi how i can cut a track scale g
A dremel or other rotary tool will probably be easiest for G scale, though for rail that large even a hack saw used for cutting metal would probably work well as long as you clamp the trck down well so you don't tear out the rails from the ties.
@@StevesTrains thanks 🍀💞