Great video! I will review it frequently. As a Prusa user I learned many things. Ironing is one that makes sense. I can’t wait till Prusa gets it. Thanks again.
To be fair, I use Cura, and I very seldom enable ironing, its only really of use on a nice flat top surface in any case, and wherever possible, if i had such a surface I wanted particularly nice, I would print upside down on the smooth side of my glass bed for a completely glass like finish.. the vast majority of models I print either have a non flat top or do not require a super fine finish, you could argue that the layer lines and small imperfections are actually what makes a 3d print special ;)
5:40: Prusa Slicer works just great without a 3-button mouse, using two-finger drag and ctrl-drag. Similar with Cura, no need for that external mouse. I totally agree with your statements about ironing at 16:25. Suddenly I can print a Benchy with a smooth roof instead of the usual staircase!
From my experience (and help of a forum user) For prusa slicer supports, I use .25mm z distance. 4 interface layers and 75% xy distance. This works well for pla and alright for petg. (Pla has worked for 0.2, 0.15 and 0.1mm layer heights)
Thanks for the suggestion and your participation. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Hello Make with tech I'm a young man in a mechanical engineering school. I challenged myself to create a metal 3D printer (but without filament) for my final work. It's going well. Today, my main problem is the slicer. As crazy as it sounds, I'm stumbling on the thing I was least afraid of at first. (FYI: What's fixed: I need to be able to do 100% filling) Figuring out how to do one of these two functions might solve my problem: 1) When the printer starts a new layer, it would have to start by printing the inner fill (in my case 100%) before printing the outer wall. (Currently, it always starts by printing the walls. Then it prints in the center. This doesn't work for me unfortunately) 2) Find a program that allows me to not print any wall (just print the inner fill (100% in my case) With your knowledge on the subject, maybe... Do you know a program that would allow me to do this? Thanks already for your help
I have a problem with cura where it starts an overhang elements "in air" and not over the existing structure. Is there setting in cura or another slicer that can help with that?
Good afternoon DrVax did you ever heard about superslicer ?A prusaslicer upgrade (don't know from whom) but has more features. Give it a test just for information Thnx.
I own a Tronxy Xy 2 pro and tried Prusa, sometimes it was good, sometimes not. Actually I am using Cura 4.8 and prints very good no matter the model. I believe Prusa is very good for Prusa printers as it is created with all settings for them. Tronxy was borned with Marlin Cura hidden firmware so it works fine with Cura. That´s the problem, create the perfect profile to try using another slicer requires a lot of tests, patience and filament waste. I will keep using Cura. I love the Prusa interfase, is more logical and easier to use, so a Cura with Prusa interfase would be the best for me. I think is better to stick with the slicer the printer comes with. My humble opinion.
Mr.VAX I have subscribed to you vids, and they are very informing for the 3d beginner. I have one question that i have concern using slicer software. My question is, will I need to learn 2 different slicer software, one to support fdm and another for supporting resin 3d printers, I don't really relish trying to learn 2 slicer software. Any suggestions or ides for picking a slicer software that supports both? Thanks is advance.
The 2.3.0 alpha of Prusa Slicer also has a search feature, as well as ironing. I have been using the alpha for a bit, but have not yet tried the ironing. Overall it seems very stable for a alpha, at least on Linux.
Question I just installed the creality silent board on my Ender 3. I can’t get a good first layer to lay correct. The lines don’t group together they are like a crispy texture I’ve tried bed adjusting I have the bltouch I’ve tried extruded adjusting. .I can send pics if you need to see what I’m talking about.
You need to level your bed & adjust you z offset. If you have Discord, there is a Creality based server, with a lot of information & a really good help section. Here is an invite link to the server discord.gg/tTaJQ8e
@@syntaxcuemi3d53 Thanks for helping another viewer. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Head over to forum.drvax.com where if your register for free you can post pictures. There are hundreds of DrVax fans there that will offer you suggestions. I also agree with Syntaxcuemi 3d that you need to adjust/tune your Z offset. There is a video on this channel about how to do that. Here is a link: ua-cam.com/video/tOxUrP2wOjA/v-deo.html
@@MakeWithTech not a problem 👍 we are a sharing community & I like to help people (if I can) when they are stuck. Sorry, but I didnt mean to tread on any toes by posting the link to the discord channel. I didnt realise that you set up a forum. I'll be sure to pop over & register. Would you like me to edit my post & remove the discord link?
@@MakeWithTech the bed adhesion is great it’s the first layer lines they are not printing close together they are leaving a gap and the skirt lines are doing the same
Unfortunately and fortunately. These slicers are constantly evolving, so a lot of things here that were mentioned unavailable in one slicer or the other are now included, along with many other features and enhancements. But you said it at the beginning. There is no "Best" As with all my art, I use many tools. So 3D printing is no exception. I find that Prusa slicer supports are much easier to remove than Cura's (Opposite of what you got). And I LOVE Cur's Tree supports, BUT, only for certain models, and cautiously as they get knocked over easily. So I use one from column A and one from Column B and bounce back and forth between the two depending on what I"m printing. They both have their pros and cons, shortcomings, and things they excel at. My suggestion (and I do realize that a lot of people want to only deal with one program and that's that)is to learn and utilize both.
Thank you for this Dr Vax, just what I needed. Been using PrusaSlicer 2.3.1 alpha, and prints have failed that printed perfectly in Cura 4.7. Because of your video, I'll be going back to Cura as my main slicer. As a future video, maybe in depth about adhesion issues and solutions.
Do you have a video explaining filament profiles in PrusaSicer 2.3? Is not like Cura where you simply choose the profile you need. In Prusa Slicer is really confusing, copying, dependencies, gcode, colors, etc.....
Hi DrVax, recently we have been having some storms and power outages ruining my 3d prints. I have looked into getting an UPS but does not look like it will solve the problem if power is out for more than 10 mins. Is there any plugin that can pause the print and restart when power if back on? Maybe a connection with the UPS and a Pi4? I use octoprint. Thanks!
@@MoAnwar You haven't mentioned which control board your printer has and which firmware you are using. If it's Marlin v2 firmware -- you are lucky. It's called POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY. If you have this firmware chances are that your printer already supports "print resume", just check menu, maybe you need to enable it. If not -- You should download Marlin v2 sources from their github. And enable this configuration setting. After that you compile new custom firmware for your printer and board and flash it. After successful flashing your printer will be saving its state during print to the SD card, so when the power if restored you will have an option to resume print. Also, you will have to ensure M413 command exists in your gcode. Just go to your slicer and add it to the "start script" section. More details here: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html And here is example for Anet A2 printer: ua-cam.com/video/wlt7LIxvMJo/v-deo.html P.S. In any case if you have Marlin v2 compatible board I will recommend you to compile your custom firmware -- it's gona be significantly better than castrated stock firmware from printer's manufacturer, i.e. bugs fixed, all features available( because manuf-r disables majority of features for no purpose and uses outdated sources, e.g. Creality).
Question when comparing slicers I never hear anyone talk about the time it takes to print an item, I currently use both slicers, what i don't understand is the huge difference in print time. Cura always seems to take a lot longer to print. Is it just me?
3 main reasons -- default acceleration, retraction settings and infill pattern and params. Prusa has different default infill patterns, so obviously it will take different time to print. Try to select similar acceleration, patterns and set the same retraction settings.
No joke, I observed this: Holding all settings as close as possible, on an Ender 3 w/Micro Swiss Direct/Hotend using Matterhackers Nylon, Cura created stronger, better-finish prints faster than Prusa, with roughly the same amount of plastic. Parts were comparable to the Makerbot Method (a surprisingly amazing machine, print-wise) w/Nylon at work.
Cura and PrusaSlicer are both free. A couple of years ago Simplify 3d was well ahed of the free slicers. I believe the are now different but equivalent. A great place to discuss this is at the DrVax forum located at forum.drvax.com.
@@MakeWithTech Found the one for an Ender 3 and another for Creality printers from 2018. This is the profile for an Ender 3: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3952425
Not trying to be rude or anything..one thing I’ve noticed from your videos is you say your name at the beginning so quick, I can never understand your full name unless I go back and repeat it several times..maybe next time say it slower and or much more clearer?
HIYA AM SO THANKFUL FOR THIS VIDEO!!! BECAUSE OF YOUR ADVICE THE DETAILED PRINTS ON MY CR6 SE BOTH LOOK GREAT AND HAVE HAVE LITTLE TO NO PROBLEMS WITH DETAIL, STRINGING OR ADHESION. I HAVE POSTED MY CONFIG FOR PRUSA HERE (drive.google.com/drive/folders/14pmKRPnj9aaTOtpdbmKITEc69tpFDWuV?usp=sharing). THANKYOUOOOOUUUU!!!!!
I own a license for simplify 3d but have stopped using it since there are excellent free alternatives and many of my viewers use 3d printing as a hobby in which case if a solid free alternative exists it probably makes sense to use it.
Thank you so much for your videos. I'm new to 3d print and your content has really brought me up to speed fast. My prints are improving greatly.
Thanks for the kind words.
This video was not only extremly well done but also SUPER SUPER helpful! Thank you so much for the great videos and helping us newbies!
This video is super professional, very refreshing!
Great video! I will review it frequently. As a Prusa user I learned many things. Ironing is one that makes sense. I can’t wait till Prusa gets it. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
To be fair, I use Cura, and I very seldom enable ironing, its only really of use on a nice flat top surface in any case, and wherever possible, if i had such a surface I wanted particularly nice, I would print upside down on the smooth side of my glass bed for a completely glass like finish..
the vast majority of models I print either have a non flat top or do not require a super fine finish, you could argue that the layer lines and small imperfections are actually what makes a 3d print special ;)
Another excellent lesson. Now that I have 2 PRUSA printers I will stick with the Prusa slicer.
Good call!
Fantastic test.
Great idea to test on a unknown printer👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😁
Thanks for your kind words and for being a viewer for a long time.
You're such a good teacher, thank you for your help
You are like now my fav person to learn with.
Your grand kids must have a blast hanging out with you!
This should help me decide which to use
5:40: Prusa Slicer works just great without a 3-button mouse, using two-finger drag and ctrl-drag. Similar with Cura, no need for that external mouse.
I totally agree with your statements about ironing at 16:25. Suddenly I can print a Benchy with a smooth roof instead of the usual staircase!
Another great tutorial with a lot of good information! Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks John.
Great comparison & it will help a lot of people. Ive shared the vid in a Creality Discord server 👍
Thanks for sharing the video and for your comment.
From my experience (and help of a forum user) For prusa slicer supports, I use .25mm z distance. 4 interface layers and 75% xy distance. This works well for pla and alright for petg. (Pla has worked for 0.2, 0.15 and 0.1mm layer heights)
Thanks for the suggestion and your participation.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Hello Make with tech
I'm a young man in a mechanical engineering school. I challenged myself to create a metal 3D printer (but without filament) for my final work.
It's going well.
Today, my main problem is the slicer. As crazy as it sounds, I'm stumbling on the thing I was least afraid of at first.
(FYI: What's fixed: I need to be able to do 100% filling)
Figuring out how to do one of these two functions might solve my problem:
1) When the printer starts a new layer, it would have to start by printing the inner fill (in my case 100%) before printing the outer wall.
(Currently, it always starts by printing the walls. Then it prints in the center. This doesn't work for me unfortunately)
2) Find a program that allows me to not print any wall (just print the inner fill (100% in my case)
With your knowledge on the subject, maybe...
Do you know a program that would allow me to do this?
Thanks already for your help
I have a problem with cura where it starts an overhang elements "in air" and not over the existing structure. Is there setting in cura or another slicer that can help with that?
Great video. It was just what I needed. Subscribed.
HI, nice to see you again!!
Yep. I was too busy last week with grandchildren to create a video. :-)
@@MakeWithTech Thats nice did you show them the toys you made?
@@alexdonnell6921 Absolutely.
@@irvshapiro2215 Also you dont have to but could you sub to my channel it is focused on drones
Good afternoon DrVax did you ever heard about superslicer ?A prusaslicer upgrade (don't know from whom) but has more features. Give it a test just for information Thnx.
I will check it out
Have you tried out the “new” PS 2.3 alpha 2 build? Lots of cool features. ❤️ the “paint supports” option.. 😀
This version also has "ironing".
Not yet!
I love your content keep up the good work please
I own a Tronxy Xy 2 pro and tried Prusa, sometimes it was good, sometimes not. Actually I am using Cura 4.8 and prints very good no matter the model. I believe Prusa is very good for Prusa printers as it is created with all settings for them. Tronxy was borned with Marlin Cura hidden firmware so it works fine with Cura. That´s the problem, create the perfect profile to try using another slicer requires a lot of tests, patience and filament waste. I will keep using Cura. I love the Prusa interfase, is more logical and easier to use, so a Cura with Prusa interfase would be the best for me. I think is better to stick with the slicer the printer comes with. My humble opinion.
I agree with you. Prusa is optimized for Prusa printers. Cura seems to better embrase the open source printer world.
Mr.VAX I have subscribed to you vids, and they are very informing for the 3d beginner. I have one question that i have concern using slicer software. My question is, will I need to learn 2 different slicer software, one to support fdm and another for supporting resin 3d printers, I don't really relish trying to learn 2 slicer software. Any suggestions or ides for picking a slicer software that supports both? Thanks is advance.
Prusa Slicer supports both.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you very much for the reply. Keep putting out those informative tutorials!
Have you tried Creality's latest slicer?
If so, do you think its better than Cura's latest slicer v 4.8.0
The 2.3.0 alpha of Prusa Slicer also has a search feature, as well as ironing. I have been using the alpha for a bit, but have not yet tried the ironing. Overall it seems very stable for a alpha, at least on Linux.
Nice. Thanks for sharing.
@10:50, where to downlead that calibration logo looking thing? thanks
I love this man keep it up 👍
Appreciate it
Question I just installed the creality silent board on my Ender 3. I can’t get a good first layer to lay correct. The lines don’t group together they are like a crispy texture I’ve tried bed adjusting I have the bltouch I’ve tried extruded adjusting. .I can send pics if you need to see what I’m talking about.
You need to level your bed & adjust you z offset. If you have Discord, there is a Creality based server, with a lot of information & a really good help section. Here is an invite link to the server discord.gg/tTaJQ8e
@@syntaxcuemi3d53 Thanks for helping another viewer.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Head over to forum.drvax.com where if your register for free you can post pictures. There are hundreds of DrVax fans there that will offer you suggestions.
I also agree with Syntaxcuemi 3d that you need to adjust/tune your Z offset. There is a video on this channel about how to do that. Here is a link:
ua-cam.com/video/tOxUrP2wOjA/v-deo.html
@@MakeWithTech not a problem 👍 we are a sharing community & I like to help people (if I can) when they are stuck.
Sorry, but I didnt mean to tread on any toes by posting the link to the discord channel. I didnt realise that you set up a forum. I'll be sure to pop over & register. Would you like me to edit my post & remove the discord link?
@@MakeWithTech the bed adhesion is great it’s the first layer lines they are not printing close together they are leaving a gap and the skirt lines are doing the same
Unfortunately and fortunately. These slicers are constantly evolving, so a lot of things here that were mentioned unavailable in one slicer or the other are now included, along with many other features and enhancements.
But you said it at the beginning. There is no "Best"
As with all my art, I use many tools. So 3D printing is no exception.
I find that Prusa slicer supports are much easier to remove than Cura's (Opposite of what you got).
And I LOVE Cur's Tree supports, BUT, only for certain models, and cautiously as they get knocked over easily.
So I use one from column A and one from Column B and bounce back and forth between the two depending on what I"m printing.
They both have their pros and cons, shortcomings, and things they excel at.
My suggestion (and I do realize that a lot of people want to only deal with one program and that's that)is to learn and utilize both.
Thank you for this Dr Vax, just what I needed. Been using PrusaSlicer 2.3.1 alpha, and prints have failed that printed perfectly in Cura 4.7.
Because of your video, I'll be going back to Cura as my main slicer.
As a future video, maybe in depth about adhesion issues and solutions.
Cura v4.7.x is FAULTY. Search reddit, UA-cam etc. Use the Beta v4.8 for now until final lease or use earlier version(s) v4.6.x
Do you have a video explaining filament profiles in PrusaSicer 2.3? Is not like Cura where you simply choose the profile you need. In Prusa Slicer is really confusing, copying, dependencies, gcode, colors, etc.....
Which is better for using larger nozzles, .8mm and 1mm?
how do you adjust the thickness of the slices on a 3d image
Nice Comparison but a new one is due... advances with both PrusaSlicer and Cura. So now 2 years later ???
Hi DrVax, recently we have been having some storms and power outages ruining my 3d prints. I have looked into getting an UPS but does not look like it will solve the problem if power is out for more than 10 mins. Is there any plugin that can pause the print and restart when power if back on? Maybe a connection with the UPS and a Pi4? I use octoprint. Thanks!
Yuo can do that whith Marlin firmware
@@noway8233 would you kindly point me to some sources for instructions? Thanks
@@MoAnwar You haven't mentioned which control board your printer has and which firmware you are using. If it's Marlin v2 firmware -- you are lucky. It's called POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY. If you have this firmware chances are that your printer already supports "print resume", just check menu, maybe you need to enable it. If not --
You should download Marlin v2 sources from their github. And enable this configuration setting. After that you compile new custom firmware for your printer and board and flash it. After successful flashing your printer will be saving its state during print to the SD card, so when the power if restored you will have an option to resume print. Also, you will have to ensure M413 command exists in your gcode. Just go to your slicer and add it to the "start script" section. More details here:
marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html
And here is example for Anet A2 printer: ua-cam.com/video/wlt7LIxvMJo/v-deo.html
P.S. In any case if you have Marlin v2 compatible board I will recommend you to compile your custom firmware -- it's gona be significantly better than castrated stock firmware from printer's manufacturer, i.e. bugs fixed, all features available( because manuf-r disables majority of features for no purpose and uses outdated sources, e.g. Creality).
Question when comparing slicers I never hear anyone talk about the time it takes to print an item, I currently use both slicers, what i don't understand is the huge difference in print time. Cura always seems to take a lot longer to print. Is it just me?
Compare the retraction settings. This can make a big difference.
@@MakeWithTech thx you I will compare
3 main reasons -- default acceleration, retraction settings and infill pattern and params. Prusa has different default infill patterns, so obviously it will take different time to print. Try to select similar acceleration, patterns and set the same retraction settings.
No joke, I observed this: Holding all settings as close as possible, on an Ender 3 w/Micro Swiss Direct/Hotend using Matterhackers Nylon, Cura created stronger, better-finish prints faster than Prusa, with roughly the same amount of plastic. Parts were comparable to the Makerbot Method (a surprisingly amazing machine, print-wise) w/Nylon at work.
I disagree! Prusa slicer prints quality for men10x better than Cura slicer
Very interesting. Thanks a lot.
Could you make a video about using duel extruding printers with a chromebook, or browser based slicer?
Good work.
Q: Can I have more than 1 Printer in Prusa? I was not able to do this with my Tevo Tornado + MakeBot Replicator X2
Yes you can have multiple printers in Prusa. I have multiple profiles for materials and printers. Very easy to change.
@@spanny52 I was not able to do it!
Where can I find the steps to follow?
@@iq0099 I went to printer settings, add printer. Then you can take configuration snap shots of each material.
Hi Doc. How can i convert SLDPRT files to stl easily please some hep. Thx.
File→save as→.STL
Good les👍👍🏆
Thanks.
👍😎👍. Thank you
Why are you not Comparing to and talking about Simplify 3D at all?
Cura and PrusaSlicer are both free. A couple of years ago Simplify 3d was well ahed of the free slicers. I believe the are now different but equivalent.
A great place to discuss this is at the DrVax forum located at forum.drvax.com.
@@MakeWithTech Why can't you do an evaluation on S3D. You mention it a number of times in your evaluations.
@@MakeWithTech It would only be fair to cover all three together at once instead of separately.
For my work it has been found Prusaslicer works better, *for me*, on my Ender 5 Pro than Cura. But there are times that I need Cura for customization.
There is a nice Prusaslicer profile on Thingiverse.
@@MakeWithTech Found the one for an Ender 3 and another for Creality printers from 2018. This is the profile for an Ender 3: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3952425
Not trying to be rude or anything..one thing I’ve noticed from your videos is you say your name at the beginning so quick, I can never understand your full name unless I go back and repeat it several times..maybe next time say it slower and or much more clearer?
Set playback speed to 1.25x
HIYA AM SO THANKFUL FOR THIS VIDEO!!! BECAUSE OF YOUR ADVICE THE DETAILED PRINTS ON MY CR6 SE BOTH LOOK GREAT AND HAVE HAVE LITTLE TO NO PROBLEMS WITH DETAIL, STRINGING OR ADHESION. I HAVE POSTED MY CONFIG FOR PRUSA HERE (drive.google.com/drive/folders/14pmKRPnj9aaTOtpdbmKITEc69tpFDWuV?usp=sharing). THANKYOUOOOOUUUU!!!!!
Who not IDEAMAKER?.
I know many people like this slicer but I have never used it. Unfortunately their is only so much time in the day.
simplify 3d vs pslicer
I own a license for simplify 3d but have stopped using it since there are excellent free alternatives and many of my viewers use 3d printing as a hobby in which case if a solid free alternative exists it probably makes sense to use it.
@@MakeWithTech i would like to learn more about coast and wipe settings in cura
What? No love for Slic3r?
Does this guy realize hes talking to adults not grade school children
15:34 stop the video.
Must make all the Prusa fanboys mad to see a cheap but nice Qidi machine with a lot higher print quality.