I do not know the answer to this off-hand. I believe the AWD system is different, but not sure how that affected the rear diff. I do know earlier gens had different setups and do not have the same procedure. But I haven't looked into the process on a 2023 and up 6th gen. I'll pin this comment and see if that helps get any eyes on it from anyone who may have an answer for you.
ALWAYS, ALWAYS loosen the fill plug FIRST! If you take out the DRAIN plug first, and for some reason you CAN'T loosen the FILL plug, you're screwed. You have NO fluid in the differential and no way to fill it. It will be an expensive toll to a dealer. I have changed my CRV's differential fluid several times over the years, so I believe this to be a cardinal rule. Enjoyed your video!
Also recommend that you use a "LONG" 1/2 in. breaker bar or ratchet with a 1/2 to 3/8 in. socket adapter, especially when removing the factory installed plugs. That first time is tough!
You’re right, but practically there’s always a way to remove the fill plug. What’s the alternative? Not change the fluid because the fill plug got the better of you?
When measuring out the extra .32 quarts. That's actually just 302 milliliters. The Differential oil bottles have a measuring gauge on the side so just refill your empty container to a little over 300millitters and you're good to go.
It would be a good idea to crack open the FILL plug FIRST just in case you can't open it (for what ever reason) and if you've opened the drain plug first you've just disabled your car until you can remove the fill plug (maybe have the car towed to dealer)
Nice video. But as a DIYer I always loosen the fill plug before I loosen the drain. It would be a bad day if the the differential were drained and you couldnt get the fill loose.
I do know there have been reports of leaking rear differentials on the 5th gen CRV that if driven low on fluid can cause the driveshaft to break and make a mess under the car. These rear diffs do not deal with a lot of torque, but still need fluid to function properly. If you own one ck periodically for leaks and keep them full. Hondas are among the most reliable vehicles you can get, but still require proper maintenance to last a long time.
Awesome description on the steps of performing this maintenance. Have you considered doing a video showing how to service the rear brakes on this vehicle specifically how manually retract the Electric Parking Brake (EPB)? Also how to change the transmission fluid. You do such an excellent job. Thanks
Those bottle pumps are nice to have but I find it nice to have a container or empty fluid bottle to stick the tube in when I am done pumping. That is because the fluid is still in there and it will run out. Also any fluid inside the part in the bottle will not drain out unless you turn it upside down and let it run out the tube. I don't know if they are all the same quality but I bought mine from Harbor Freight. I never really buy any tools or drill bits or anything like that there. It is low quality junk! It seemed that I had to do a lot of pumping to get it started pumping for me. I also had to pump somewhat fast so I think the tolerances in the Harbor Freight one may be loose. Next time I will try one from another store and see if it is any better. Maybe mine was slow because of the gear oil which is notoriously harder to pump in some cases.
Like many said, always loosen the fill plug first. There is no really need to mesure the amount of oil because the hand pump you are using cannot transfer all the fluid in the bottle. Just pump oil until it start dripping from the fill plug hole.
Definitely agree! I know when I did this one, I took extra time to measure just to validate it would fill to bottom of fill plug - which indeed it does. So no need to do that. And do agree, one should get the fill plug open first. Espeically in rust belt, corrosion can make it harder especially with age. Best to find out you can't open it before you've drained the fluid - even if a very low probability, it's best practice for sure.
I learned a long time ago to take out the fill nut before taking the rear dif cover, drain plug, etc off the vehicle, lol. What is the service interval on this? I'm in the process of purchasing a CR-V just like this one.
Nice video but 15k miles to replace differential fluid? Just rolled 200k on my 2010 Mercury Mainer I bought new. Never changed any fluids other than the oil.
Hi great video I have a 2019 crv with only 19k miles but realized honda want it to be done at 15k. When I changed yesterday it was very dark in color is that normal. Thanks
Just repeating for those who need to see it more than once. ALWAYS REMOVE FILL PLUG FIRST! If the fill plug is ceased, how will you fill your diff? Ensure your fill plug is good before you drain.
The torque specs are a bit elusive but I found them definitively from Honda - 35lb-ft for both drain and fill plugs with new crush gaskets. I'm going to update the video description as well - thanks!
Maybe the 2018 is different/unique; but, I have a 2005 which is basically FWD most of the time....I don't see a reason to change the rear diff fluid unless obviously bad.
The interval isn't specified in the manual - instead they use the "Maintenance Minder" - this is a computer driven interval that will take into consideration the operation of the vehicle. The first Code 6 reminder for most folks seems to come between 10,000-15,000 miles. After that initial notice, the interval seems longer for most folks.
That should not be a problem so long as the 1/2 drive torque wrench can reliably get down the the torque value. It should, just so long as it's in the operating scale. It'll be a lighter click from it probably so keep that in mind
I have a 2007 honda crv ex awd Ive been hearing some clunking noise when i turn and reverse turn . I changed all the mounts including the rear differential mount stiil having the issue i changed the differential fluid still hearing the issue . I see that alot of people are having the same problems and they go to the honda dealer and just replace the fluid again and still doing the noise . Anyone knows what can i be the problem? I see some of u replaced it and noise went away but some of you the noise hasn't gone away . I dont think i need a new differential because the crv runs amazing in highways and on local streets . So i dont kno what else to do
I need your advice. I mistakenly put the wrong Honda transmission fluid (ATF-DW-1) in my 2015 CR-V which has a CVT. I realized the mistake BEFORE starting the vehicle. I then drained out that fluid, filled with the correct fluid (HCF-2). I let it sit a few minutes, did NOT start the car. Drained it again, then refilled with the correct fluid (HCF-2) again. Then started the vehicle. All this took place at 26,500 miles. Is there anything else you recommend I do? I am thinking of changing it again at 30,000 miles. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking time to read this.
Probably not a bad idea to consult a dealer service advisor for sure. But since you didn't start it and have drained it twice, I would think that is on the right track. Perhaps a full flush at a shop would be extra insurance. I don't know the transmissions super well so perhaps the local dealer could consult to confirm.
Nice video, thank you. For diy'ers it would be hard to fill the full 1. 3 that given the angle of the car being jacked up at the back. I feel it would start spilling out before getting to 1.3qt, no?
I'd imagine some fluid volume would go to the front of the pinion, so on ramps it should not be too aggressive an angle. But I did not test that. I can say that for DIY you can access the fill plug fairly easily with it level on the ground.
I plan on stacking a few 2x6 together. Angling 1 side and nailing them together. Put in front of 4 tires and drive up it. I just need a extra few inches
@@VortexGarage I backed my CRV up onto ramps. The old fluid drained out easy enough, but I couldn't get the 1.32 quarts of new fluid back into the differential before it started spilling out. When I started the car up, it was making a strange sound and it didn't want to go into gear... like the transmission wasn't working. My 2015 only has a little over 16K miles on it and the transmission and everything was working great until I drained the differential fluid out and tried to fill it back up. Tomorrow I'll try to crawl under the car now that it's more level and try to add more differential fluid, but I have a feeling that my car will have to be towed to the dealer to get fixed. :(
Maybe Someone can help me here with the differential. I have to replace the differential on my 2022 Honda CRV 1.5 turbo EXL. When I search on the internet, two codes appear: 41200-5TG-010 and 41200-5TG-900 Is there any difference between both parts? or both fits my car? I´m not in the US (different VIN) and the dealership does not give me the information I need
Good day - I see this which maybe helps, that "41200-5TG-900" is newest version that replaced prior part numbers: "SKU: 41200-5TG-900 Applications: Body Styles: 5-Door. Replaces: 41200-5TG-000, 41200-5TG-010, 41200-5TG-A01, 41200-5TH-000, 41200-5TH-010 Sold In Quantity: 1"
Hello, I have a CR-V awd 2013, and recently the AWD is showing up on the dashboard and in the last three short drives, I noticed when turning in slow corners it is different from before, it is stiff and weird (my car has just over 50k), does that mean I have to change the AWD oil and fix the issue?! Thanks in advance.
Same with the oil filters on every vehicle check that will unscrew first. I have had the unenviable task of butchering one (albeit not on a crv) when it’s failed to come off with a chain.
Hey there from Montana! I have a 2021 CRV Hybrid EX. I am seeing code 6 at 16k miles and I have a 6 hour trip coming up… (lot of 6s lol) Should I change before my trip or do I have some time to order the fluid and replace upon my return? In other words, how important is it to change when the code comes up? Thanks!
If you can do it before, that's great, however if not I would not loose sleep over it. 6 hour drive so maybe 350 miles - even if round trip thats 750. Do it right after to be safe. On this one we did the fluid looked clean. It's more of a break-in fluid replacement. I personally don't think going a tiny bit over will cause major harm, but doing it soon as feasible is good practice. My guess is that Honda also knows most owners are the ones who aren't as keen to keep up with their cars will see the light and drive awhile before making time to visit their dealer for maintenance - and maybe they code that into the timing. Fortunately we are more vigilant. 👍👍
It should not matter, and I've never done it a specific way and never had leaks. most important is the torque value that crushes the gasket the proper amount. I'd imagine any difference in each side is probably more from manufacturing process than anything else.
I am not certain but do take care as I think some of the older CRV generations had unique setups including possible fluid sharing between ptu and trans etc. Just sharing that as a heads up as I understand there are some major differences. Sorry did not know on the drain and fill plug sizes in that model year
The maintenance minder will alert via code 3 when the transmission fluid change is needed. My guess is at or well after 50,000km (around 30,000 miles). However Honda does not give a set time except they do say if you drive in a mountainous areas, low speeds or towing then to use a 40,000km interval (25,000 miles).
You run two risks: - Under-tightening, and it may leak due to lack of tightness, and not seating the crush gasket - Over-tightening, you could damage the threads, or even worse, crack the aluminum differential housing. Experienced mechanics may be able to get by as they have a learned "feel" for specific torque values through experience, and can also feel when the crush gasket seats. Others should rely on torque specs (35lb ft here) as a way to ensure proper tightening and remove guesswork. I believe we have linked to some inexpensive torque wrenches in the description. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, their basic 3/8 torque wrench will do the job well and is sometimes on sale for only $10. It would suffice for this job in terms of it's accuracy and quality. Hope this helps!
@@jeanrmonestime612 Check video description. Or this Amazon branded one - amzn.to/3tgmsIF Or if you have a harbor freight store near you they have them. www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63880.html
@Vortex Garage why would you have to change the rear differential after 15K miles? I feel it as very strange. I have a Honda CRV 2018 and I am getting this engine light (for rear differential) after 23K. My question remains the same - why so early?
The main reason is that it's part of gear break in. As the brand new gears and differential unit work, they build their initial mesh and this can result in small bits of materials in the oil. As a result Honda looks for an earlier oil change for the first one, depending on other factors the computer calculates, this can be anywhere from 15k to 25k miles. I believe after this the changes are recommended more at the 30,000 mile interval which is a good recommendation for fluid maintenance. Hope this helps!
@@VortexGarage Thanks for your reply. It makes sense. My car gave the engine light for the rear differential service after 23K. However, one thing that I don't understand - Why would this be a CRV 2018 thing that it needs the rear differential service so early. Is it because of turbo engine?
@@amanpathania Honda is actually seemingly one of the only manufacturers that follow correct maintenance procedures. Gears wear heavily when first put together and then slows way down. Removing that initial particulate is a really good idea for longevity.
I did it on mine right around 15k miles for the first time but I haven’t seen that code on the maintenance minder since then and I’m at 40k now. Do you know how often does it need to be done after initial change? Thanks
@@VortexGarage Congratulations.do you use transmission oil additive for the transmission.my car sounds "smack" when I take P to R at first start in the morning, but what could be the reason why it does not come in the next replacement.. should i use additives
This vehicle uses a front wheel drive biased AWD setup. The front as a result has a different setup and most likely uses transmission fluid as a transaxle setup. A classic rear drive biased four wheel drive setup with a central transfer case will have both a front and rear differential and require fluid changes. On our channel as an example we did a Jeep Grand Cherokee fluid service in which the front and rear differentials were done, along with the central transfer case fluid.
Yes I believe it does, however this video is for the rear differential. I do know that earlier CRVs I believe they shared fluid with the transmission. I've actually not yet done the CVT on this one as the current driver has kept mileage pretty low but it's going to need it soon. I have seen other videos on youtube showing the CVT process on this though.
The maintenance minder usually notes when needed but 30k is about right. Note that a 2015 is different procedures - totally different AWD system so the steps here on this 2018 do not apply to your car. Be sure to follow specifics for your model year or it may not drive correct after service.
There is a small layer of fine material, but no large shavings and not a large amount. The material on the plug is normal as material from break in is deposit. You can see a bit in this video what ours looked like on removal A 1mm layer or so of fine stuff probably not an issue but if you have a large ball of silver material on the magnet that seems a bit coarse it may be concerning and be an item to consult your dealer for especially if under warranty.
We did a video right after this changing the oil. I reset the maintenance minder for all items completed at the end of they video. This is for a CRV with the 7" touchscreen - at end of this video - ua-cam.com/video/etDyQMx_mMg/v-deo.html
@@vcsoccer88 When resetting you can choose which component to reset. You can reset the AWD fluid minder without having the reset the oil one. I chose to do all but you can see on the display it lets you select individual items you wish to reset
next time, camera man was doing it right. if you are trying to show something to people, first take a wide angle shot to show the vicinity of where things are located and then walk in (I have no idea why you thought it was a great idea to cut the part as the camera person was walking to point where the drain and fill plugs were). Person started walking and whoever thought it was a good idea to cut the part out (Yes I will figure it out so don't even)....what were you thinking?
No you don't. You actually don't need any jack stands if you are OK crawling under the car. Alternatively, you can back the car onto a ramp for better access.
I tried using wheel ramps for the rear wheels, and fluid leaked out the fill hole as soon as I got the plug out. The differential would also not take the full 1.32 quarts. I think it has to be flat to fill with the correct amount. One way to do this and still have easier access to the fill plug would be to jack up the left rear, remove the left rear wheel, and then lower the jack so the vehicle is approximately level.
Hello, i think i will drive up and put the front end of car on my ramps. Then use two car stands for the rear, plenty of up so you can work underneath and still be level!
Hi is 2023 6th crv hybrid gen has the same fill and drain place? Thank you beforehand to any of you who have experience and can answer
I do not know the answer to this off-hand. I believe the AWD system is different, but not sure how that affected the rear diff. I do know earlier gens had different setups and do not have the same procedure. But I haven't looked into the process on a 2023 and up 6th gen. I'll pin this comment and see if that helps get any eyes on it from anyone who may have an answer for you.
Thanks for sharing this helpful video.Does CRV 17 1.5 touring AWD have the same process? Thanks
It’s the same the process for the 6th gen awd 1.5L turbo.
google it fool
ALWAYS, ALWAYS loosen the fill plug FIRST! If you take out the DRAIN plug first, and for some reason you CAN'T loosen the FILL plug, you're screwed. You have NO fluid in the differential and no way to fill it. It will be an expensive toll to a dealer. I have changed my CRV's differential fluid several times over the years, so I believe this to be a cardinal rule. Enjoyed your video!
Thanks...
Also recommend that you use a "LONG" 1/2 in. breaker bar or ratchet with a 1/2 to 3/8 in. socket adapter, especially when removing the factory installed plugs. That first time is tough!
thanks i almost forgot
100% agree but on the new car like this one it’s usually not an issue.
You’re right, but practically there’s always a way to remove the fill plug. What’s the alternative? Not change the fluid because the fill plug got the better of you?
When measuring out the extra .32 quarts. That's actually just 302 milliliters. The Differential oil bottles have a measuring gauge on the side so just refill your empty container to a little over 300millitters and you're good to go.
It would be a good idea to crack open the FILL plug FIRST just in case you can't open it (for what ever reason) and if you've opened the drain plug first you've just disabled your car until you can remove the fill plug (maybe have the car towed to dealer)
Nice video. But as a DIYer I always loosen the fill plug before I loosen the drain. It would be a bad day if the the differential were drained and you couldnt get the fill loose.
Actually, there's another DP2 fluid which is made by Eneos. Great stuff!
I do know there have been reports of leaking rear differentials on the 5th gen CRV that if driven low on fluid can cause the driveshaft to break and make a mess under the car. These rear diffs do not deal with a lot of torque, but still need fluid to function properly. If you own one ck periodically for leaks and keep them full. Hondas are among the most reliable vehicles you can get, but still require proper maintenance to last a long time.
FUN TIP. take out fill plug BEFORE you do drain plug!!
Great Video I just did mine at 19k miles for qst time. For anyone else dont wait do it at 15k for 1st time. The fluid was filthy.
Awesome description on the steps of performing this maintenance.
Have you considered doing a video showing how to service the rear brakes on this vehicle specifically how manually retract the Electric Parking Brake (EPB)? Also how to change the transmission fluid.
You do such an excellent job.
Thanks
Those bottle pumps are nice to have but I find it nice to have a container or empty fluid bottle to stick the tube in when I am done pumping. That is because the fluid is still in there and it will run out. Also any fluid inside the part in the bottle will not drain out unless you turn it upside down and let it run out the tube. I don't know if they are all the same quality but I bought mine from Harbor Freight. I never really buy any tools or drill bits or anything like that there. It is low quality junk! It seemed that I had to do a lot of pumping to get it started pumping for me. I also had to pump somewhat fast so I think the tolerances in the Harbor Freight one may be loose. Next time I will try one from another store and see if it is any better. Maybe mine was slow because of the gear oil which is notoriously harder to pump in some cases.
Like many said, always loosen the fill plug first. There is no really need to mesure the amount of oil because the hand pump you are using cannot transfer all the fluid in the bottle. Just pump oil until it start dripping from the fill plug hole.
Definitely agree! I know when I did this one, I took extra time to measure just to validate it would fill to bottom of fill plug - which indeed it does. So no need to do that. And do agree, one should get the fill plug open first. Espeically in rust belt, corrosion can make it harder especially with age. Best to find out you can't open it before you've drained the fluid - even if a very low probability, it's best practice for sure.
Highly impressed with your video! Very detailed on the steps and everything could be seen very clearly.
Getting mine done for my 2020 honda crv
Were you going to make a video on changing rear brake pads/rotors on the 2018 CR-V. Curious how you retract calipers on EPB.
Thanks love your videos
I was wondering why the minder went off for 15 where most places for my model list it longer. Thanks for all the side points you say!
I learned a long time ago to take out the fill nut before taking the rear dif cover, drain plug, etc off the vehicle, lol. What is the service interval on this? I'm in the process of purchasing a CR-V just like this one.
Nice video but 15k miles to replace differential fluid? Just rolled 200k on my 2010 Mercury Mainer I bought new. Never changed any fluids other than the oil.
Hi great video I have a 2019 crv with only 19k miles but realized honda want it to be done at 15k. When I changed yesterday it was very dark in color is that normal. Thanks
When does that break in reminder come on ? I have a 2019 crv with 19k miles and it has not come on yet.
Thanks for doing video helped my son and saved tons of cash.
Just repeating for those who need to see it more than once. ALWAYS REMOVE FILL PLUG FIRST! If the fill plug is ceased, how will you fill your diff? Ensure your fill plug is good before you drain.
Great video changing mine now! What is the torque setting for tightening down the pugs? Thanks
The torque specs are a bit elusive but I found them definitively from Honda - 35lb-ft for both drain and fill plugs with new crush gaskets. I'm going to update the video description as well - thanks!
Am I high? .32 quarts is 5.12 oz right? Or is the fill amount actually 1.64 quarts that is equal to 1 qt and 10.24 oz?
Well done video. Saved me $$$. Thanks!
Great video, thanks!
Great video, thanks for the helpful information.
Maybe the 2018 is different/unique; but, I have a 2005 which is basically FWD most of the time....I don't see a reason to change the rear diff fluid unless obviously bad.
well done dude!! Just got a 2022 !
Enjoyed your video. What is the recommended mileage before you change the def oil?
The interval isn't specified in the manual - instead they use the "Maintenance Minder" - this is a computer driven interval that will take into consideration the operation of the vehicle. The first Code 6 reminder for most folks seems to come between 10,000-15,000 miles. After that initial notice, the interval seems longer for most folks.
@@VortexGarage I bought my CRV with 30,000 miles on it. It’s now 70,000. Maybe I’ll change it at 75,000. Thanks for your reply.
Great video!! Can we use a 1/2 inch (with a converter to 3/8) torque wrench to tighten the screws to a specific torque?
That should not be a problem so long as the 1/2 drive torque wrench can reliably get down the the torque value. It should, just so long as it's in the operating scale. It'll be a lighter click from it probably so keep that in mind
Are both plugs 35lb for torque?
Instead of using a container pump I just use a long nylon tube bought at home depot and fill differential until it starts to drip out.
I have a 2007 honda crv ex awd Ive been hearing some clunking noise when i turn and reverse turn . I changed all the mounts including the rear differential mount stiil having the issue i changed the differential fluid still hearing the issue . I see that alot of people are having the same problems and they go to the honda dealer and just replace the fluid again and still doing the noise . Anyone knows what can i be the problem? I see some of u replaced it and noise went away but some of you the noise hasn't gone away . I dont think i need a new differential because the crv runs amazing in highways and on local streets . So i dont kno what else to do
Hello, please tell me what torque to tighten the transmission oil pan. honda crv 2019. Where can I find this documentation? Thanks.
Can u show how to chang transmission fluid e-cvt honda crv hybrid 2022 ? Nothing on UA-cam
I need your advice. I mistakenly put the wrong Honda transmission fluid (ATF-DW-1) in my 2015 CR-V which has a CVT. I realized the mistake BEFORE starting the vehicle. I then drained out that fluid, filled with the correct fluid (HCF-2). I let it sit a few minutes, did NOT start the car. Drained it again, then refilled with the correct fluid (HCF-2) again. Then started the vehicle. All this took place at 26,500 miles. Is there anything else you recommend I do? I am thinking of changing it again at 30,000 miles. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking time to read this.
Probably not a bad idea to consult a dealer service advisor for sure. But since you didn't start it and have drained it twice, I would think that is on the right track. Perhaps a full flush at a shop would be extra insurance. I don't know the transmissions super well so perhaps the local dealer could consult to confirm.
so that a proper 4x4 diff on that crv's or a haldex type?
Went to the Honda dealer to get dpf II and they game me acuras awdf and they said it’s the same
Good video!
Nice video, thank you. For diy'ers it would be hard to fill the full 1. 3 that given the angle of the car being jacked up at the back. I feel it would start spilling out before getting to 1.3qt, no?
I'd imagine some fluid volume would go to the front of the pinion, so on ramps it should not be too aggressive an angle. But I did not test that. I can say that for DIY you can access the fill plug fairly easily with it level on the ground.
Use a long soft pvc tube and funnel fill with amount, standing up. Perhaps have someone assist under to ensure tube stays in place.
I usually drive the from wheels on the raps and lift up the back. That way it’s very close to level
I plan on stacking a few 2x6 together. Angling 1 side and nailing them together. Put in front of 4 tires and drive up it. I just need a extra few inches
@@VortexGarage I backed my CRV up onto ramps. The old fluid drained out easy enough, but I couldn't get the 1.32 quarts of new fluid back into the differential before it started spilling out. When I started the car up, it was making a strange sound and it didn't want to go into gear... like the transmission wasn't working. My 2015 only has a little over 16K miles on it and the transmission and everything was working great until I drained the differential fluid out and tried to fill it back up. Tomorrow I'll try to crawl under the car now that it's more level and try to add more differential fluid, but I have a feeling that my car will have to be towed to the dealer to get fixed. :(
Maybe Someone can help me here with the differential. I have to replace the differential on my 2022 Honda CRV 1.5 turbo EXL. When I search on the internet, two codes appear: 41200-5TG-010 and 41200-5TG-900 Is there any difference between both parts? or both fits my car? I´m not in the US (different VIN) and the dealership does not give me the information I need
Good day - I see this which maybe helps, that "41200-5TG-900" is newest version that replaced prior part numbers:
"SKU:
41200-5TG-900
Applications:
Body Styles: 5-Door.
Replaces:
41200-5TG-000, 41200-5TG-010, 41200-5TG-A01, 41200-5TH-000, 41200-5TH-010
Sold In Quantity:
1"
Does crv 17 awd the same process ? Thanks appreciated.
Hello, I have a CR-V awd 2013, and recently the AWD is showing up on the dashboard and in the last three short drives, I noticed when turning in slow corners it is different from before, it is stiff and weird (my car has just over 50k), does that mean I have to change the AWD oil and fix the issue?!
Thanks in advance.
Is this only gor AWD version?
Hi, can you change and transmission oil filter please?
Same with the oil filters on every vehicle check that will unscrew first. I have had the unenviable task of butchering one (albeit not on a crv) when it’s failed to come off with a chain.
Hey there from Montana! I have a 2021 CRV Hybrid EX. I am seeing code 6 at 16k miles and I have a 6 hour trip coming up… (lot of 6s lol) Should I change before my trip or do I have some time to order the fluid and replace upon my return? In other words, how important is it to change when the code comes up? Thanks!
If you can do it before, that's great, however if not I would not loose sleep over it. 6 hour drive so maybe 350 miles - even if round trip thats 750. Do it right after to be safe. On this one we did the fluid looked clean. It's more of a break-in fluid replacement. I personally don't think going a tiny bit over will cause major harm, but doing it soon as feasible is good practice.
My guess is that Honda also knows most owners are the ones who aren't as keen to keep up with their cars will see the light and drive awhile before making time to visit their dealer for maintenance - and maybe they code that into the timing. Fortunately we are more vigilant. 👍👍
Does it matter what side of the crush washer goes to the drain plug as each side of washer is different . ??
It should not matter, and I've never done it a specific way and never had leaks. most important is the torque value that crushes the gasket the proper amount. I'd imagine any difference in each side is probably more from manufacturing process than anything else.
is there a fromt differential
The front is part of the transmission and shares fluids with the transmission.
It uses Honda HCF-2 transmission fluid.
So please can I get some of the Honda parts
Wow that is so nice
I guess it's okay to have air in the system as the pump seems to introduce air during the initial and final pumps.
Yes
even with braking systems, it's fine (you are supposed to let air bubble out by pumping the brake pedals for brake fluid change)
hi, could you tell me the change interval please? regards alan,
Does the 2009 CR-v use the same crush washers sizes?
I am not certain but do take care as I think some of the older CRV generations had unique setups including possible fluid sharing between ptu and trans etc. Just sharing that as a heads up as I understand there are some major differences. Sorry did not know on the drain and fill plug sizes in that model year
$129 plus tax for transmission differential..Thank you
How many liters did you put?
They are saying we could use 75w90 synthetic gear oil????
Never heard of that and it's not what Honda calls for. On this generation Honda specifically requires Honda Dual Pump Fluid 2 - DPF2.
Wow my dealer in NJ charged me $229 to do the differential fluid change.
How many kilometers/ miles from 0 miles/kilometers before changing transmission fluid? Thanks
The maintenance minder will alert via code 3 when the transmission fluid change is needed. My guess is at or well after 50,000km (around 30,000 miles). However Honda does not give a set time except they do say if you drive in a mountainous areas, low speeds or towing then to use a 40,000km interval (25,000 miles).
What is the size of the plug washers, both drain and supply?
1:14 in the video he says one 18mm (drain plug) and the other 20mm (fill plug), have a nice day
Hi .
what will happened if you don't use a torque wrench to tighten ?
You run two risks:
- Under-tightening, and it may leak due to lack of tightness, and not seating the crush gasket
- Over-tightening, you could damage the threads, or even worse, crack the aluminum differential housing.
Experienced mechanics may be able to get by as they have a learned "feel" for specific torque values through experience, and can also feel when the crush gasket seats. Others should rely on torque specs (35lb ft here) as a way to ensure proper tightening and remove guesswork.
I believe we have linked to some inexpensive torque wrenches in the description. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, their basic 3/8 torque wrench will do the job well and is sometimes on sale for only $10. It would suffice for this job in terms of it's accuracy and quality.
Hope this helps!
@@VortexGarage Do you know where I can get a cheap torque wrench please ?
@@jeanrmonestime612 Check video description. Or this Amazon branded one - amzn.to/3tgmsIF
Or if you have a harbor freight store near you they have them. www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63880.html
@Vortex Garage why would you have to change the rear differential after 15K miles? I feel it as very strange. I have a Honda CRV 2018 and I am getting this engine light (for rear differential) after 23K. My question remains the same - why so early?
The main reason is that it's part of gear break in. As the brand new gears and differential unit work, they build their initial mesh and this can result in small bits of materials in the oil. As a result Honda looks for an earlier oil change for the first one, depending on other factors the computer calculates, this can be anywhere from 15k to 25k miles. I believe after this the changes are recommended more at the 30,000 mile interval which is a good recommendation for fluid maintenance. Hope this helps!
@@VortexGarage Thanks for your reply. It makes sense. My car gave the engine light for the rear differential service after 23K. However, one thing that I don't understand - Why would this be a CRV 2018 thing that it needs the rear differential service so early. Is it because of turbo engine?
@@amanpathania no . Nothing to due with the turbine. The differential is a separate item .
@@amanpathania Honda is actually seemingly one of the only manufacturers that follow correct maintenance procedures. Gears wear heavily when first put together and then slows way down. Removing that initial particulate is a really good idea for longevity.
Can you use other differential fluid except honda
This specific fluid is designed for this vehicle. I'm unsure if anyone makes a matching spec to the honda dual pump fluid.
I did it on mine right around 15k miles for the first time but I haven’t seen that code on the maintenance minder since then and I’m at 40k now. Do you know how often does it need to be done after initial change? Thanks
My guess is that it will revert to somewhere around a 30,000 mile interval after the initial change.
@@VortexGarage Congratulations.do you use transmission oil additive for the transmission.my car sounds "smack" when I take P to R at first start in the morning, but what could be the reason why it does not come in the next replacement.. should i use additives
My local dealer advised me to run the oil through twice to rince out the diff. ie fill, run, drain and repeat. Anyone else get advice like this?
and you believed them? Man, dont believe the hype. YOu will be ok
why is it only the rear differential in need of oil change? I never heard someone changing the oil in the front differential at any car, why?
This vehicle uses a front wheel drive biased AWD setup. The front as a result has a different setup and most likely uses transmission fluid as a transaxle setup.
A classic rear drive biased four wheel drive setup with a central transfer case will have both a front and rear differential and require fluid changes. On our channel as an example we did a Jeep Grand Cherokee fluid service in which the front and rear differentials were done, along with the central transfer case fluid.
What are the change intervals (at what mileage) for the AWD rear differential fluid to be changed?
Every 30,000 miles following the first drain (which happens earlier at 15,000 miles)
the CVT has filter?
Yes I believe it does, however this video is for the rear differential. I do know that earlier CRVs I believe they shared fluid with the transmission. I've actually not yet done the CVT on this one as the current driver has kept mileage pretty low but it's going to need it soon. I have seen other videos on youtube showing the CVT process on this though.
How often should the differential fluid be changed? Every 30K miles like the CV transmission? 2015 CR-V AWD.
The maintenance minder usually notes when needed but 30k is about right. Note that a 2015 is different procedures - totally different AWD system so the steps here on this 2018 do not apply to your car. Be sure to follow specifics for your model year or it may not drive correct after service.
Eneos duel pump fluid at napa
Were there a lot of shavings on the magnetic plug?
There is a small layer of fine material, but no large shavings and not a large amount. The material on the plug is normal as material from break in is deposit. You can see a bit in this video what ours looked like on removal A 1mm layer or so of fine stuff probably not an issue but if you have a large ball of silver material on the magnet that seems a bit coarse it may be concerning and be an item to consult your dealer for especially if under warranty.
@@VortexGarage Thanks, maybe I'll bring my 2019 out there. Just a short commute from Ohio! Be safe!
Check out UA-cam video of GR Yaris differential change at 1000kms.
After doing that how do you reset it on dashboard?
We did a video right after this changing the oil. I reset the maintenance minder for all items completed at the end of they video. This is for a CRV with the 7" touchscreen - at end of this video - ua-cam.com/video/etDyQMx_mMg/v-deo.html
@@VortexGarage I get it but if already did my oil change and resetting that would it through it off with percentage and all?
@@vcsoccer88 When resetting you can choose which component to reset. You can reset the AWD fluid minder without having the reset the oil one. I chose to do all but you can see on the display it lets you select individual items you wish to reset
Everything ok, except ....I guess it's ok For America.... quits and Once just kills me. LITERS LOL
AWD's are a headache
next time, camera man was doing it right. if you are trying to show something to people, first take a wide angle shot to show the vicinity of where things are located and then walk in (I have no idea why you thought it was a great idea to cut the part as the camera person was walking to point where the drain and fill plugs were). Person started walking and whoever thought it was a good idea to cut the part out (Yes I will figure it out so don't even)....what were you thinking?
Great vid, thank you!
So please can I get some of the Honda parts
Do you need to have the CRV on 4 jack stands?
No you don't. You actually don't need any jack stands if you are OK crawling under the car. Alternatively, you can back the car onto a ramp for better access.
I tried using wheel ramps for the rear wheels, and fluid leaked out the fill hole as soon as I got the plug out. The differential would also not take the full 1.32 quarts. I think it has to be flat to fill with the correct amount. One way to do this and still have easier access to the fill plug would be to jack up the left rear, remove the left rear wheel, and then lower the jack so the vehicle is approximately level.
Hello, i think i will drive up and put the front end of car on my ramps. Then use two car stands for the rear, plenty of up so you can work underneath and still be level!