Repairing the (in)famous Chronographe Suisse!
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- Today we have James' beautiful Aureole Chronographe Suisse in 18K gold on the bench, and this old watch is in need of some tender love and care! It does not run very well and there are issues with the chronograph function also.
Join Stian for a repair and service of this wonderful wristwatch as we delve into the history of Chronographe Suisse and the movement manufacturer inside them, Landeron.
Oh, and we will also discuss how Adam raised a Cain :)
Be sure to check out proper subtitles in your language!
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Tools and resources for watchmaking as a hobby:
bit.ly/43yQRmw Watchmaking books
bit.ly/3N3rlz3 Watchmaker’s loupe
bit.ly/43vOcu4 Watchmaker tweezers
bit.ly/3Nm0lfc Moebius lubricants
bit.ly/43ITWjM Screwdrivers
bit.ly/468B8wq Case opener
bit.ly/468Bfbk Rodico
bit.ly/3J8mX0u Polywatch
bit.ly/42wAZQf Presto tools
bit.ly/3J6UND7 Bergeon tools
bit.ly/3X21iwL Horotec tools
bit.ly/3X2xiAU Chinese made watchmaking tools
bit.ly/3qFqgWk Digital microscope
bit.ly/3CkZt4f Ultrasonic cleaner
bit.ly/3qAAPtX Ultrasonic cleaning solution
bit.ly/43V9HEr Denture cleaning tablet
bit.ly/3X1rpUl Chinese “Horia style” jeweling tool
bit.ly/3P5EQR7 Demagnetizer
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🤣 "intercourse". I still have tears from laughing! You've made my day once again my friend! Cheers!
😁👍
I have a beautiful Delbana with a Landeron 48 calibre from the 1940s, thanks for this video.
Very nice!
Your workmanship is so relaxing to watch. Thank you
Thank you very much!
I appreciate the extra time given to explaining the working of the chronograph function. Thanks!
Thank you for explaining the mechanics of the chronograph, I can finally understand how the thing works.
Glad it helped!
You are an amazing horologist. It continually amazes and fascinates me at your skill and knowledge. Thank you very much.
Wow, thank you! 😊
I recently got a new video card. Now I can watch your videos in glorious 4k.
😁👍
Dear Stian, as always I enjoyed every minute of this wonderful video with your comments and history lesson on a really beautiful watch. It may not feature the most sophisticated movement, but it oozes style - as do you: 👍👌👏!
Thanks a lot, Yves 😊
During the fixing of the chronograph seconds hand, I thought I heard you say "golly jeepers this is fun". 😊
😁👍
I really like when you let us hear the whales in the slow motion air squeezer check
😁👍
Thanks for the subtitles Stian! It was a very pleasant and unexpected surprise!!! 👍😊 Beautiful watch and great job!Some pfenigs of the GDR were made of aluminum, so they were weightless))) By the way, about the balance spiral - you gave me the idea to check the spiral gap on a mechanical alarm clock that has a completely unstable stroke! Thank you for sharing your experience! 🖐️🤝🙂
My pleasure!
Beautiful watch. I always Love your videos. It's a pleasure how you explain and take us through the whole process. Keep them coming. Very enjoyable to watch and also enjoy your little funny comments and jokes. 😁👍❤
Glad you like them!
Your work on balances always is fascinating. It's amazing that someone who can wield a watchmaker's hammer so effortlessly can also do the fiddly stuff with such gentle care and precision. George Daniels said that hand strength is an important asset for a watchmaker because it provides the watchmaker with better fine control, and your work is proof of that. And the demonstration of Zen and the art of watchmaking in connection with fitting the chrono second hand is an instant classic ("Intercourse!"), right up there with your Barry White cover work. Best wishes to you and the family for the holidays.
😁 Thanks a lot, Bullnose :) There'll be another video before the holidays but best wishes to you and yours also just in case ⛄🎄🎊
Lovely, i got nearly the same one at my wrist right now, looking forward to this video
Brilliant as usual. You could do motivational CDs with those voice-over comments. :)
Maybe one day! 😂
What a nice watch! And great job as usual. But an empire crystal on a watch like this? I would have preferred a low dome. And what a coincident! I serviced a really beautiful 38mm Atlantic Chronograph Suisse with a Landeron 48 last week. I really do love these old chronographs.
Another excellent and exciting journey!
More to come!
Intercourse! Love that... 😊
😁👍
Another outstanding video Stian. Superb looking watch.
Thanks, Luke!
Well done that Man
Nice work, Stian!
Another hilarious and informative episode ❤
Love these timepieces
I have one as well, Dionis on the dial, gold plated. Lovely repair.
Another great video, thank you for sharing !
Fantastic! However, this watch is highly complicated. Only skilled masters in watch repairing like you can restore this kind of watch.
Great video an oldie but a goodie much like the watchmaker
Indeed! 😂
Ive recently started working on chronographs and the anticipation at 29:48 is captured perfectly 😂
My next project is another Landeron 48 and this video will come in handy - thanks!!
I had a Westbury chronograph with the Landeron 48 inside. The case was gold plated, and clearly aimed at customers too impoverished to afford a Chronograph Suisse in 18k. When I got the case open I found the balance wheel had a wad of Rodico instead of the upper jewel. So I sent it for repairs and got it back with the original gold plate half stripped off and replaced with shitty semi transparent red gold plate.I didn't ask for that, I liked the patina as it was. So much for that! The shop offered to redo the plating but I was done. My junk chrono was ruined.
That's sad... and unfortunately too common
Beautiful watch!
That is gorgeous. Thanks for your efforts mate!!
Great restoration. Fine timepiece.
GREAT VIDEO !!!!
Alltid gøy å se hvordan en urmaker jobber 😉🕰️
I love the looks of that watch, very classic and the crystal is super cool!!!
Always a good day when you post a new video Stian. Can watch and listen to you for ages. Also can I take this opportunity to wish you and the ladies in your life, a very happy Christmas and a safe and happy New Year. All the very best Mick.🇬🇧
Thanks a lot, Mick, and to you and yours also 🎅🍾🎄🎊
Hello , I do like a chronograph. Nice 51 . My next project after Christmas is a 39 from the 15.5”” family . I find closing up the centre wheel and arbor ports puts you up at the 300 amp mark . I spotted a lot off side movement when you fitted the canon pinion and yes the cases are thin I restored one last year a 51 . Nice work
Regards
Andrew
Thank you yet another fascinating video of a watch repair. This time it was a beautiful vintage chronograph, and you did some extraordinary work on it.
What a nice watch ! nice video!
great video lots of fun beautiful watch
Thank you 🤗
My work fulfills me. I think I have said that to myself a time or two. I love a chronograph complication on watch. Thanks for the clear explanation of the chronograph works.
😁👍
yeah, the GDR-Pfennig was quite something...i remember holding it sometime way back then, even though i am from west germany...great content, i am only getting intot he ordeal of watches, you are among my favorites!
Thanks, that's very nice to hear :)
Lovely job all round and great result.
Thank you so much 😀
It's a nice job you have Tremendous skill sir, and thanks to your amazing talent, perhaps more people learned this
Thank you very much!
Now thats a nice watch!
Very nice work, you are a true artist.
Thank you very much!
Very Nice!
Thanks!
When I saw your video I was really excited to see a professional working on a landeron movement. I (hobbyist)recently restored a landeron 48 movement and it went quite good. The only thing was, I had to spend some time adjusting the chronograph action offset screws to make sure everything is engaging properly. One tip I learned is when you put the chronograph hands is to hold the reset button so that the hammer keeps the wheels locked. Cheers!
Thanks for watching and yep, that's a good trick. It doesn't work on all chronograph, though 😉
Great video and a great looking watch. I would most likely be afraid to wear it, the possibility of hollow lugs just being the icing on the cake!
Wonderful video! Thank you for the translation during the hands work 😂😂 Sounds very similar to the phases I would mutter while working on cars.
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This watch is stunning in its simplicity. There is something in that salmon dial that is mesmerizing, like it glows with its own energy. Then you opened it up and I was completely unimpressed. Stamped parts and flat design make the inside of this watch a snooze fest. My theory about the balance index is that the last person who worked on this was bored to tears, and one single tear fell on the index. I would love to see this watch remade with a better movement.
🤔 The dial certainly is beautiful but I'm not sure I would ever call a horizontal clutch chronograph a snooze fest! It's a simple chronograph in an originally inexpensive watch but to me it's still much more interesting than most watches nowadays :)
@@VintageWatchServices I'm sorry if I implied it was simplistic. I was speaking to the design of the parts. They all seem very mat and flat.
@@PrometheusZandski Oh, no worries and I absolutely know what you mean :) There's not much of a finish on the movement
Loved the translations when you were adjusting the hand. Thoroughly informative and entertaining channel, thank you for all the hard work that goes into producing these shows. All the very best from Scotland
Glad you enjoyed it!
@VintageWatchServices very much so sir and to the extent that I will be going through your older shows thank you again oh and I will post comments on those shows too as I know how it helps the algorithm.
@2rueblue Thank you! 😊
What a beautiful, stylish watch that is, I have a similar watch myself, not gold, and the dial and case not good, but it has the landeron chronograph movement. That was all I could afford, I would love a watch with the 72c movement, but way out of my finances, unfortunately.
Debit is better friendlier the best way.
My areolas need a service, too, at least a good cleaning, and, maybe, a good oiling afterwards. 😎😊
PS, looking forward to the regulator pin video! You had me quite scared cleaning and adjusting it!
The case actually has hollow lugs. I noticed them ,when you put the case in the jar with the cleaning solution
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As always, a great video with a very nice watch. Your videos were part of the reason I started to learn about watchmaking. I just love mechanical watches, and chronographs in particular. I actually have a similar Landeron-based chronograph that I'd like to practise on, but I don't have the presto tool to remove the chronograph driving wheel. Any ideas for alternative ways of removing that wheel without bending or breaking the pivot? Thank you very much for all the time and effort you take to make these videos.
Thanks Ricardo, that is very nice to hear and thanks for joining! You can use hand levers or screwdrivers to remove the chronograph driving wheel, but the chance of bending or breaking the pivot is quite high, especially if you do not have a lot of experience. I'd suggest simply getting the Presto tool, and make sure you get the one that corresponds to the number of spokes on the wheel you want to take off, likely the 5 spoke version.
I have a Chronograph very similar to this one, although the mechanism is not a Landeron; it has traditional stop/start and reset action. But it has exactly the same kind of case, possibly the same case; the odd reverse lugs, hollow lugs, 18k gold but so thin with base metal inner back and “stiffener”; I got it as a gift for my 21st birthday from a combination of my parents and my mentor (a jeweler). It was called a Phigied Extra. Pretty, but… basically unwearable.
Still sounds like a nice gift at that time :)
I literally have $3.30 (U.S) left of my allowance for this cycle (spent the rest on watch repair stuff already 😂), so I'll choose the two dollar option. Thanks for the knowledge pass, Stian!
😂 the translations
Actually seemed like one of your more complex restorations. I love the salmon dial!
As regards the rust on the regulator, it looked like the sort of red rust you'd find on steel. Is that part actually made of steel?
I noticed that both the second caseback and the retainer ring were stamped "METAL". Is that to indicate base metal, and so a simple alloy of brass?
Overall, beautiful work, Stian.
Thanks so much! 😁👍
Thanks, Frank! Yes, the regulator is steel. And the rings are brass.
Stain those East German coins are actually quite sturdy but because you are the big Norwegian beefcake you can bend anything you get your hands on like Beckham. What no trouble in Paradise. Keep well from New Zealand 🇳🇿
😂👍
I always thought that a Chronograph watch was supposed to be the most accurate of watches but then there is the Chronometer, like Marine chronometers. As far as I see it now chronographs are watches with the timing functions (or complications) that this watch has, and the escapement mechanism is the same principle as many watches. Marine chronometers have a unique detent chronometer escapement that is supposed to be the most accurate mechanical escapement, but I think others like the grasshopper and Graham escapement are pretty well up there with the detent movement. Is there a watch with a detent chronometer escapement?
Hello Allan, chronographs have nothing to do with accuracy, it is indeed about event timing. Chronometer is a term for accurate watches, and there are accreditation agencies for officially certifying chronometer watches such as COSC in Switzerland.
The chronometer escapement (or detent escapement) were used in marine chronometers and there were indeed pocket watches made with this escapement. The issue is that it is not self-starting and it is prone to locking if it receives shocks thus it isn't viable for wristwatches. Grasshopper and Graham escapements were used in large clocks.
I always find it amusing how "normal" sized a movement looks under a macro lens because in reality everything is just tiny
Oh Stian!
How could you do this to me?
I had to take a couple of stiff drinks before clicking.
Yes, I had one of these many many years ago; it had a black dial with gold case, hands and printing, and it ended up breaking my heart.
It was like one of those sophisticated women you fall in love with at a time when you're too young and immature to handle the situation.
All went well to begin with and I really felt we would be together forever.
But as the years went by she began to make ever increasing demands on me and my thin pocket-book. It eventually became clear to me that I had to say goodbye to either her or my sanity.
But I'll never forget her.
So here I am, forty years later, trying to hold back the tears...😢
Great video again!! How’s that repeater movement coming along?
Thanks! It's been put on the back burner with way too many other things I have to do... I'm trying to cut down on taking on other tasks so that I have time for this type of work.
Oh please show us how to replace the index pin!
Very good explanation using the overlayed text on the wheels. I am always amazed how these tiny teeth mesh with the much larger teeth. I have worked with quite a few gears in my time but this seems to be found only in chronographs.
Would that be correct?
It is indeed common in chronographs that the chronograph runner wheel (the chronograph seconds counter wheel) has twice as many teeth per mm as the meshing wheels. That is to reduce the movement of the chronograph seconds hand when the wheels engage.
Nice watch, that would be a great watch to have. Thank you for another great video. In your videos I have never seen you checking the poise, is that something you do?
Thanks for watching! I check the poise only if the timegrapher indicates there is an issue with it. And then I'd do dynamic poising rather than static. I'll do a video actually on both next year as part of a larger project, but it's worth noting that having to poise a quality watch is rarely necessary and very rarely worth the effort.
@@VintageWatchServices I seen someone else doing it on older us brand pocket watches, that is why I asked. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
It is indeed handsome
17:11 In the US I think the watch would have to say “Assembled in US.” Odd that US has stricter rules.
Was there after service readings from timegrapher
Another interesting video. Where did you get those wide hand levers? I haven't seen those from any of the suppliers I use. Thanks
Thanks! They're from Bergeon, I filed them down a bit
What @MichaelBossetta said. Nice watch! And a great strap choice this time.
How do Landeron movements compare in quality to the other mass produced cam-chronograph-movements of the time, namely the Valjoux 7730 series?
Thanks! The 7730 series came a bit later than the Landeron 48 family, but quality wise the Landeron movements are a bit less refined. It's not uncommon to strip threads in plates etc, and there are some cheaper solutions in the use of wire springs, extra screws to hold things in place etc. But Landeron movements were absolutely solid.
Thank You, Stian. I guess the economizing also explains that most Landeron movements haven't got a shock protected balance. Which is the main reason I have refrained from adding one to my collection so far.
The other main reason is a chronical lack of funds, of course. ;-) @@VintageWatchServices
@@JochenVogel They were made in large numbers before shock settings became mainstream, that's the main reason you'll find lots of them without that. They started producing them before WW2, and shock settings only became mainstream in the 1950's.
Thanks again! @@VintageWatchServices
i have 2 watch on this movement,it very popular in europe ,but service cost a lot!!!!
Pozdrawiam
I find myself saying 'intercourse' a lot when doing fiddly work that requires multiple attempts. What a coincidence! 😁
🤣
I would suspect that the rust on the index is there because the inexpensive is from another watch that was rusty. Rust begets rust so it probably got worse over time.
That could indeed explain it :)
Hello. Thanks for a nice video. I've got very similar watch after my grandfather. It's a different model with tachymeter and stop watch functions and writing "ancre 17 rubis antimagnetics". What is approx value of these watches? Seems to be fully functional and in a very good shape. thanks for info (-:
Thanks for watching! These watches aren't very valuable and it all depends on the condition of it. You can go to Chrono24.com or ebay to search for similar watches and their prices
Intercourse 🤣 👍👍
😁👍
Great video Stian! I have a very similar watch that I’m looking forward to servicing! Was that your Bergeon 3010 you used to tighten the hands pipes? I’ll give you €100 for it🤣have you seen how expensive these are now! How many watches do you service on average a week? Catch you soon ta ta.
Hello Boyd, that's the 3010 indeed. It depends how many watches I service as I also have to handle my business with all that entails, but I try to service one watch per day as an overall rule.
@@VintageWatchServices thanks Stian, one a day on average, that’s good going. Easier to justify the costly tools like your cleaning machine etc!
How does one request your expert service? I am looking to restore /have it completely serviced a similar watch
Hello Shafi, thanks for your kind words! I am so busy I'm not taking on any more jobs this year but you could contact me again in January.
What is the detect zone on that shaitan machine for?
To detect if there's magnetism
Swiss made is like swiss cheese, many and huge indeed holes...
How do you dispose of your contaminated cleaning fluids?
In my local garbage dump
Someone probably touched the regulator with their bare fingers
That wouldn't make the regulator rust, only leave a fingerprint :)
Hi I am from India. I want to give you a watch for service. Can you please suggest how?
Yes Stian, Re the chronograph seconds hand, I can imagine your expletive laden tirade exceeded that of Derek and Clive - The Critics.
They're on UA-cam in the case a man of class and style has missed the performance (Caution: not suitable for children within at least 3 small European countries' radii away).
Oh yes, Peter Cook and Dudley Moore had some fantastic skits 😂
@@VintageWatchServices I'm particularly fond of poor Clive's grievance at his failed BBC documentary.
It is a little known fact that the Australian comedian Barry Humphries (GRHS) was a great fan of Derek and Clive, the unending humour of which in a 2012 interview he revealed.
@@ThePaulv12 why not just cut the virtual gymnastics and get to the point...which is TV cant be trusted.
“Intercourse” must be a technical watch making term….😂😂😂😂😂😂
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My guess is someone touched it with their unprotected finger.
The index, you mean? That wouldn't make it rust like that (unless that someone was an Alien face crab with an open wound, of course) 😆
@@VintageWatchServices😂
The Soviets actually imported their ass buzzers from East Germany … and slapped a CCCP label on them.
Are you servicing watches commercially..
Hello, no, I only service watches that are interesting for the channel or watches I have bought in order to resell
I do not trust your translation... "I am happy" does not have an F in it.
🤣
Want to see you work on caliber 66 or 67 from Universal Geneve😭I see you have some White Shadows on your site, but haven't seen you work on these microrotor movements.
I have a video on a UG Polerouter if you go to my YT homepage
@@VintageWatchServices saw it, but that's another caliber