I am curious about this chemistry, but I'm not more informed by this "review". To show what this chemistry kit will do, you need to shoot the same subjects on a couple of rolls of the same E-6 film and process one in a "real" full E-6 process, like Fuji/Hunt (or Kodak if that still make one), another in one of the home kits (which short cut part of the E-6 process) and finally in this kit. Subjects would include a color checker and grey step tablet, like the McBeth or Kodak Separation sets. Shooting a couple of scenes with no control reference like here tells us nothing and is a waste of his time. Having compounded E-6 chemistry from bulk chemicals since 1985, I would expect some fairly severe color crossovers which would differ over density, in which case it would be practically impossible to correct for them in either chemistry or in a digital scan of the film.
Thank you for this review. I have been shooting Ektachrome for over 40 years and what you showed has me wanting to try this chemistry. Thank you again and subscribed!
Hi I purchased this kit after watching your video but now I have a question. The instruction suggests a 1+1 dilution for D9 dynamic chrome. What does it mean? For a 1 litter tank, I just add 500ml of mixed stock solution and add 500ml water, is it correct? The instruction also mentions that the first developer should only be used once. So do I need to dump the first developer after use? My tank can only take three135 film rolls. If I followed the instruction, 1 litter of first developer can only process 6 rolls...
Normally I wouldn't give a thought to cross-processing, but yours piqued my curiosity, so I checked, and I still have a few rolls of Rollei CN200: the clear color negative film (without the red printing mask). It's out of date, but been refrigerated, so I think I'll have to give that a try. In a world where almost no one prints conventionally anymore, I've always wondered why that film wasn't more successful.
Great video, good to see some real tests. :) Of note the E100 is not blule/purple in the shadows IF processed properly - at least never happened to me. What I'm curious about are two things: 1. How does the FD influence color timing? Different development of the three layers maybe..? 2. How come the color reversal bath has such a wide temperature range? In traditional E6 you deviate half a degree and your colors will be vastly off...
Just developed my first roll of E100 with the dynachrome and it looks INSANE hahah. Questions though. Are you mixing your developer solution to 1000ml then diluting the solution to 2000ml of 1:1 solution? I mixed mine then diluted to 1:1 just for the single roll and poured the used chemical into a separate bottle. Can’t find straightforward info on any of this. Kit says to dilute to 2000ml 1:1 and that it develops 8-16 rolls, but also says it’s single use. This makes no sense to me 🤷🏻♂️
I'm always surprised Noone (very few people) seem to project their slide film, I know I do and I feel it's the best (my favorite) thing to do with slides
I’ll admit I don’t have one. I need to get on that! I’ve thought about hosting a local slide party where bring in slides and we mount them and project them and y’all about the image to our peers!
Jay, it can! However the effect is different across various emulsions. I have not tested it on Velvia 50. Though, on Velvia 100, the warming effect is sooo subtle, I actually like it a lot better on that than the E100.
Hi, first of all thanks for the review. I wanted to ask you if the first chemicals the Developers (Daylight Chrome, Tungsten and the Dynamic Chrome) are re-usable? I ask you this because if seen other reviews in which they say that after developing 3 rolls or just one they dump the that first developer, and that the only ones re-usable are the second and third chemicals. Thanks.
Could you pls elaborate on the dynamic range and details? I understand an E6 kit could enable you to get the most out of your film. I don’t get how chemicals could change something already captured on a film that has its own latitude and “resolution” properties (as data sheets show). Thanks
In the podcast interview, the brothers mention the chemistry was formulated to chemically stop developing the highlights before it gets blown out. How exactly they did that, I don't know. I believe that is a secret in the CineStill Film recipe.
Studio C-41 ok I see. I guess it would be a valid benefit if your former chemicals or process were over processing the highlights but then your latitude will still remain within the latitude of the film, right?
@@toulcaz31 Correct, this just makes the realization that slide film still has great dynamic range and that the chemical process can be refined to yield better results than its predecessors!
The particular model is the TCS-1000 by CineStill Film. However any sous-vide cooker will work to heat up the water. The CineStill model is modified with a ceramic heating element so it can go directly into the chemistry.
I am curious about this chemistry, but I'm not more informed by this "review". To show what this chemistry kit will do, you need to shoot the same subjects on a couple of rolls of the same E-6 film and process one in a "real" full E-6 process, like Fuji/Hunt (or Kodak if that still make one), another in one of the home kits (which short cut part of the E-6 process) and finally in this kit. Subjects would include a color checker and grey step tablet, like the McBeth or Kodak Separation sets. Shooting a couple of scenes with no control reference like here tells us nothing and is a waste of his time. Having compounded E-6 chemistry from bulk chemicals since 1985, I would expect some fairly severe color crossovers which would differ over density, in which case it would be practically impossible to correct for them in either chemistry or in a digital scan of the film.
Randall Stewart Let me know when to you do a comparison review. Sounds like you know what you’re doing. Looking forward to watching it!
@@StudioC41 No YOU need to do it lol
Yes Randall let us know when that video is up so we can check it out 😂
Excellent video, the first time I've heard that you can actually mix in room temperature, in you are not going to develop right away - big thanks!
Thank you for this review. I have been shooting Ektachrome for over 40 years and what you showed has me wanting to try this chemistry. Thank you again and subscribed!
psyched to try this. thanks for publishing a review on the day it dropped!
dynamic looking like a new go to
Great overview. Some nice images as well. Do you have a video showing your scanning process?
I like this video already just because of the Holga Week 2019 sticker on your computer. Well done. Cheers.
Hi
I purchased this kit after watching your video but now I have a question. The instruction suggests a 1+1 dilution for D9 dynamic chrome. What does it mean? For a 1 litter tank, I just add 500ml of mixed stock solution and add 500ml water, is it correct? The instruction also mentions that the first developer should only be used once. So do I need to dump the first developer after use? My tank can only take three135 film rolls. If I followed the instruction, 1 litter of first developer can only process 6 rolls...
Normally I wouldn't give a thought to cross-processing, but yours piqued my curiosity, so I checked, and I still have a few rolls of Rollei CN200: the clear color negative film (without the red printing mask). It's out of date, but been refrigerated, so I think I'll have to give that a try. In a world where almost no one prints conventionally anymore, I've always wondered why that film wasn't more successful.
Great video, good to see some real tests. :) Of note the E100 is not blule/purple in the shadows IF processed properly - at least never happened to me.
What I'm curious about are two things:
1. How does the FD influence color timing? Different development of the three layers maybe..?
2. How come the color reversal bath has such a wide temperature range? In traditional E6 you deviate half a degree and your colors will be vastly off...
I wonder how this kit would work for Provia and Velvia.
Negative Grain got some fresh Velvia and Provia coming in to test that as well!
I was originally underwhelmed, but now I'm super curious. I've never heard of something like this. Thanks for the information!
Those cross processed images were crazy! I'm definitely going to have to try that myself
The portra cross processing is amazing
I use an 81A mild warming filter with Ektachrome and Provia, it eliminates the blue shadows and even improves skin tones.
Great video Bill! I’m going to have to try this out!
Just developed my first roll of E100 with the dynachrome and it looks INSANE hahah. Questions though. Are you mixing your developer solution to 1000ml then diluting the solution to 2000ml of 1:1 solution? I mixed mine then diluted to 1:1 just for the single roll and poured the used chemical into a separate bottle. Can’t find straightforward info on any of this. Kit says to dilute to 2000ml 1:1 and that it develops 8-16 rolls, but also says it’s single use. This makes no sense to me 🤷🏻♂️
I'm always surprised Noone (very few people) seem to project their slide film, I know I do and I feel it's the best (my favorite) thing to do with slides
I’ll admit I don’t have one. I need to get on that! I’ve thought about hosting a local slide party where bring in slides and we mount them and project them and y’all about the image to our peers!
Pumped to try this out. Thanks for the great review 😀
I love the Portra plot twist!
The dynamic range is pretty incredible for a slide film! Can this developer be used for other types of slide film? i.e. Velvia 50?
Jay, it can! However the effect is different across various emulsions. I have not tested it on Velvia 50. Though, on Velvia 100, the warming effect is sooo subtle, I actually like it a lot better on that than the E100.
Hi, first of all thanks for the review.
I wanted to ask you if the first chemicals the Developers (Daylight Chrome, Tungsten and the Dynamic Chrome) are re-usable? I ask you this because if seen other reviews in which they say that after developing 3 rolls or just one they dump the that first developer, and that the only ones re-usable are the second and third chemicals.
Thanks.
Do you know if it is necessary to use the blix that comes with this kit? Or could you use the same blix from the c41 kit?
Blix from the C-41 kit is fine. Do not use from the E-6.
Could you pls elaborate on the dynamic range and details? I understand an E6 kit could enable you to get the most out of your film. I don’t get how chemicals could change something already captured on a film that has its own latitude and “resolution” properties (as data sheets show). Thanks
In the podcast interview, the brothers mention the chemistry was formulated to chemically stop developing the highlights before it gets blown out. How exactly they did that, I don't know. I believe that is a secret in the CineStill Film recipe.
Studio C-41 ok I see. I guess it would be a valid benefit if your former chemicals or process were over processing the highlights but then your latitude will still remain within the latitude of the film, right?
@@toulcaz31 Correct, this just makes the realization that slide film still has great dynamic range and that the chemical process can be refined to yield better results than its predecessors!
What is the shelf life on this?
What is that thing you're using to heat up the water?
The particular model is the TCS-1000 by CineStill Film. However any sous-vide cooker will work to heat up the water. The CineStill model is modified with a ceramic heating element so it can go directly into the chemistry.
Studio-C41 do you know what companies will sell this kit in Europe?
Great question. At this moment I don’t know. However, CineStill Film told me distribution to Europe will happen this summer!
@@StudioC41 thank you for your reply. Let's wait and see if the Covid19 will delay it...
The background music is a bit annoying..
Is it real or is it Photoshop? Photoshop (Lightroom), of course.