Nice tutorial. I used a black piece of 1/2” thick pvc from my old helm and bolted that to my large console and then mounted my binnacle remote through that.
Thank you, and thanks for sharing what worked for you! It's pretty common to reuse old bezels or plates that are already made to fit controls. Or make a new one as a face plate.
Perfect teaching-video. I think I'd put a backing board behind the console to stiffen that plastic around the control. I'd probably also have the wires running along underneath in a pvc or PEX tubing just for looks.
Thanks! I’ve not had a problem with those consoles flexing. The steering wheel could sometimes use some reinforcement, but only when someone uses it to help themselves stand up. I’ve heard of people running wires under in pvc, makes sense to me. We try to keep it accessible in case someone wants to get at it in the future.
Great video. This was exactly what I needed. Swapped over from a quicksilver 2000 to the marpec this weekend. I fully disassembled the quicksilver and use the key switch from it. I only had to take the wires off the old neutral switch and connect the to the new controller. Keep up the good work.
@@tomspontoons my kill switch is currently just hanging inside the console. I will need to get a new one that can be installed under the key eventually. I mean it’s a pontoon boat, not a jet ski. I don’t think I will be taking in hard turns that could throw me off anytime soon🤣
@@davidlane4327 Right, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a pontoon captain wearing their safety lanyard. Should they wear it to be 110% safer? Probably. There’s a new law in Michigan requiring a safety lanyard on certain boats!
Do you have a video on what to do with the wiring from the motor that used to go into the old control box? Wanting to do this install, just unsure how to wire up the ignition and everything else.
No specific video YET, but we will keep adding that stuff over time. Are you changing the type of control box? Generally, the key switch is attached as your main engine wiring, and the shift/throttle is the mechanical portion. Worst case you may need to purchase an engine harness for your motor that has a key switch and safety lanyard separately from the shift/throttle box. Then the neutral safety and trim tilt wires will be the only wiring that connect the ignition harness to the shift throttle box.
As always learned a lot! I was thinking about replacing my throttle controls since the old one would detract from my "all new" rebuild. Now, I'm convinced I can do that. So, very helpful. Thanks Question: Do you ever label both ends of wiring or cables, or is that just for amateurs like me?😂 And it looks like your wiring is just hanging down, do you ever bind and attach your wiring to the console sidewall for neatness?
You can definitely tackle the new controls! And Awesome questions!!! Yes, I have absolutely labeled both ends T for throttle and S for Shift. I always tie up my wiring under the helm at the very end. I work from the accessories themselves tying everything up to the console, then I bundle any slack left under the console…usually attaching it to the steering cable to keep it in place and off the bottom where moisture could potentially collect. What kind of and year motor are you working with? Maybe I can lend some tips!
@@tomspontoons It is a 2003 Mercury 60hp Bigfoot fourstroke. I'm trying to read the wiring diagram, but if you'd ever like to break down the boat side (motor) harness and explain which I use and which don't matter, that would help with gauges too. It's the most intimidating aspect of this first build for me. Especially how key switch stuff has to be done.
@@BuenoToob Good info to know for future videos! On that ignition harness, you should have a black rubber coated bundle of wires that plugs into the engine and then runs to the helm. Off of that you likely have a gauge harness that plugs into the main motor harness under the helm. That will have your wiring for the tach (gray), ground for gauges (black), key on power for gauges (purple), and possibly some other wires for oil or temp gauges (rarely used on pontoons as those alarms are built into the audible horn). The other wires would be for trim and tilt (blue, green, red) which hooks into your wires coming from your shift/throttle control…and your two neutral safety switch wires (yellow with red stripe) that will also connect to your shift/throttle control. I will work on doing a video in the near future breaking that down better!!
@@tomspontoons That's a great start. Question: whoever owned it prior cut everything from the end of the harness, and the cut off piece, which led to all the gauges, etc. is a birds nest. If I start from the harness, should I worry about wire color, or just shrink label the new wiring? What's your experience? Also, I need to know what wire gauges I should have on hand for all wiring (lights, battery to helm, etc.)? Thanks again!
@@BuenoToob If you're referring to the engine harness, your best option might simply be to buy a new or good used engine harness w/ key switch for that motor ($100-$200). Then add a gauge harness ($40-$50). That way you'd have everything you need and peace of mind knowing it's done correctly. If you're referring to the accessory harness (for nav lights, horn, docking lights, etc) then you can use what's there and splice in your own wires to the dash or to each accessory. The alternative is the wiring harness from pontoonstuff.com which is $120 but one of the biggest time saving items I put on any boat. In general, 16 gauge wire is your best bet, especially if you're stacking LEDs on that single run. LEDs by themselves are fine with 18 gauge, but when I wire multiple LED strips into a single core wire that runs to the switch I go with 16 gauge.
We purchased the Marpac throttle from PontoonStuff and have questions about installation on the Luxury Pontoon Console. The installation manual and your video illustrates the shift throttle arm on the left side. This configuration doesn’t work on the Luxury Pontoon Console when using a typical 14” steering wheel, but flipping the throttle so the arm is on the right would fit. My question is, do you have any concerns with, and advice for installing the throttle so that the arm is on the right? Is it as simple as flipping the orientation and flipping the push/pull mechanism?
I’ve seen that done on a number of occasions. No concerns as long as you’re installing everything to push or pull to properly operate the shift mechanism and throttle!
Hi Tom, I have bullets on the cables at mariner 1994 60 motor. My current shifter is a vintage morse and there are no bullets at the current shifter. The number on the cable is Morse 32377-3-240in 7556. Can I use these cables or do I need to purchase new ones? If I need new cables, any idea where to purchse. I purchase this Marpac shifter based on this video.. Great Job!!
I wish I had a better answer for you! I would contact Marpac and ask if those cables will work (owned by Donovan Marine). From there, you could run Gen 1 Mercury/Quicksilver cables, and you can get those at any Mercury dealer or online based in 1 ft increments. You’d likely need that adapter kit for those!
Hi Tom I installed the marpac single lever control 7-0118. I had a mariner. I bought the extenion kit. The screw on cable end that come in the marpac kit are to fat for the extenion to lock on. Any ideas
Send me a picture of what you’re working with…there a chance you could drill out the holes in the extension kit? Enough material left there to work with? TomsPontoons@gmail.com
I hope they’ll be offering it again soon. It’s been almost 2 years since it was able to be ordered. Much harder to source those types of quality components than it would seem, but they’re working hard on it from what I hear!
Hey King Fish! Thanks so much for the kind words and for watching our channel. We'll keep working hard to put out more content to help all the DIY boaters out there!
We actually need to start using a microphone for a lot of what we record!! The camera does great for up close stuff, but loses quality fast when not close or at the right angle!! Thanks for watching!!
I see Yamaha and Suzuki make them. I will try the Yamaha bc the 702 series closely resemble the Johnson Evinrude binnacle throttle shifter. Any differences may be subtle and modified, definitely worth the $20 investment that I can use as a reference for a fabricator.
@@awakenedtotruth8419 perfect! You can probably make your own also with a jig saw and some marine plastic (starboard). It comes in a variety of thicknesses and sizes. Worth looking into as it seems like it would be an easy project.
@Toms Toons Pontoon Refurbishing YES! I 4got all about starboard, and I heard it shapes up easily and clean. Last time I looked into Starboard, it was a bit pricy and came in a large section. I will try again. Thanks, Tom.
Would you be willing to give the link for the Marpac binnacle remote for my 2003 Mercury Bigfoot four-stroke. When I do a search on Amazon I get tons of options and don't know which to choose? Be sure to attach your referral ID to get credit. Thanks
This is the same control box I installed, came from Pontoon Stuff. Enter “TOMSTOONS” for 5% off at checkout. www.pontoonstuff.com/products/marpac-universal-pontoon-throttle
I’ve installed some of the older Mercury Binnacle mount controls on the standard console. They were slimmer width wise so it worked. It gets crowded with the steering wheel. I prefer to do a side mount box on the railing or side of the console when working with the standard console.
@@tomspontoons Do you remember which controls they were? If I can I would prefer to keep it on the console somehow. I just can't seem to find anything that gives me total dim's to know if it will fit. Thanks
@@gregloughe4647 A side mount control box can be bolted to the side of the standard console from Pontoon Stuff. I've done that a time or two. It would have the ignition switch and harness built right in. The binnacle I've used looks like the one linked below. I'll say it again though...it's still a very tight squeeze. Works fine, and doesn't interfere with the steering wheel, but it's tight! www.ebay.com/itm/175321312186?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=175321312186&targetid=1645685074008&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9017200&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685074008&abcId=9300841&merchantid=102014396&gclid=CjwKCAjwtp2bBhAGEiwAOZZTuKl_Io-iJgQIWTYj35tfLHXp5LCL1EH7SgcSolwcbgyyM_nBXJ5LIRoCqrQQAvD_BwE
Alarm will not stop beeping------I bought a pontoon boat with a 1994 mercury mariner. All of the wiring was cut and on the floor. I bought a six wire ignition, after market. that is suposed to be merucury. The wires matched to old ignition: red, black, black yellow stripe, yellow red, yellow black, purple. The alarm was connected to the purple ignition wire so I connected it the same. there are leads going to a gauge. I started without connecting to the gauge then I connected to the gauge. The alarm beeps when I turn on the key and does not stop. I dont know what I am doing. Can someone guide me how to wire it correctly? Thanks You!!!!!
I’m not an outboard mechanic…I’ll never claim to be. I can rig them and do maintenance, but some details are over my head. I generally know enough to be helpful, but the pros are who you need to seek out. That being said…Your alarm will sound solid horn for overheat and intermittent for low oil. I’m only really familiar with using the OEM harness (8 wire) from Mercury. If you hook the horn to purple you’re simply connecting it to the key on power, so you’re just powering it up to sound with the key. I believe it needs to be connected to an alarm wire which I think is tan with blue. Your 6 wire harness is missing some critical wires including the gray tach wire which makes me think it’s not the right harness for having an alarm horn wired in…perhaps it’s for an older model motor that isn’t oil injected or for a lower hp motor that’s not equipped with those signal wires. Call or stop in to a local marina, buy some oil and stuff for your boat to support them, and ask the service manager for help…that’s what I’d do!
Nice tutorial. I used a black piece of 1/2” thick pvc from my old helm and bolted that to my large console and then mounted my binnacle remote through that.
Thank you, and thanks for sharing what worked for you! It's pretty common to reuse old bezels or plates that are already made to fit controls. Or make a new one as a face plate.
Perfect teaching-video. I think I'd put a backing board behind the console to stiffen that plastic around the control. I'd probably also have the wires running along underneath in a pvc or PEX tubing just for looks.
Thanks! I’ve not had a problem with those consoles flexing. The steering wheel could sometimes use some reinforcement, but only when someone uses it to help themselves stand up. I’ve heard of people running wires under in pvc, makes sense to me. We try to keep it accessible in case someone wants to get at it in the future.
Great video. This was exactly what I needed. Swapped over from a quicksilver 2000 to the marpec this weekend. I fully disassembled the quicksilver and use the key switch from it. I only had to take the wires off the old neutral switch and connect the to the new controller. Keep up the good work.
How perfect is that?!? I’m so glad our video was helpful for you, that’s our mission with this channel!
@@tomspontoons my kill switch is currently just hanging inside the console. I will need to get a new one that can be installed under the key eventually. I mean it’s a pontoon boat, not a jet ski. I don’t think I will be taking in hard turns that could throw me off anytime soon🤣
@@davidlane4327 Right, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a pontoon captain wearing their safety lanyard. Should they wear it to be 110% safer? Probably. There’s a new law in Michigan requiring a safety lanyard on certain boats!
@@tomspontoons if I used it I would kill the engine every time I reached for another 🍺. It’s all about the party in slow motion here in TN.
@@davidlane4327 Hahaha I love this! And also.... GO VOLS!
Do you have a video on what to do with the wiring from the motor that used to go into the old control box? Wanting to do this install, just unsure how to wire up the ignition and everything else.
No specific video YET, but we will keep adding that stuff over time. Are you changing the type of control box? Generally, the key switch is attached as your main engine wiring, and the shift/throttle is the mechanical portion. Worst case you may need to purchase an engine harness for your motor that has a key switch and safety lanyard separately from the shift/throttle box. Then the neutral safety and trim tilt wires will be the only wiring that connect the ignition harness to the shift throttle box.
As always learned a lot! I was thinking about replacing my throttle controls since the old one would detract from my "all new" rebuild. Now, I'm convinced I can do that. So, very helpful. Thanks
Question: Do you ever label both ends of wiring or cables, or is that just for amateurs like me?😂 And it looks like your wiring is just hanging down, do you ever bind and attach your wiring to the console sidewall for neatness?
You can definitely tackle the new controls! And Awesome questions!!! Yes, I have absolutely labeled both ends T for throttle and S for Shift. I always tie up my wiring under the helm at the very end. I work from the accessories themselves tying everything up to the console, then I bundle any slack left under the console…usually attaching it to the steering cable to keep it in place and off the bottom where moisture could potentially collect.
What kind of and year motor are you working with? Maybe I can lend some tips!
@@tomspontoons It is a 2003 Mercury 60hp Bigfoot fourstroke. I'm trying to read the wiring diagram, but if you'd ever like to break down the boat side (motor) harness and explain which I use and which don't matter, that would help with gauges too. It's the most intimidating aspect of this first build for me. Especially how key switch stuff has to be done.
@@BuenoToob Good info to know for future videos! On that ignition harness, you should have a black rubber coated bundle of wires that plugs into the engine and then runs to the helm. Off of that you likely have a gauge harness that plugs into the main motor harness under the helm. That will have your wiring for the tach (gray), ground for gauges (black), key on power for gauges (purple), and possibly some other wires for oil or temp gauges (rarely used on pontoons as those alarms are built into the audible horn). The other wires would be for trim and tilt (blue, green, red) which hooks into your wires coming from your shift/throttle control…and your two neutral safety switch wires (yellow with red stripe) that will also connect to your shift/throttle control. I will work on doing a video in the near future breaking that down better!!
@@tomspontoons That's a great start. Question: whoever owned it prior cut everything from the end of the harness, and the cut off piece, which led to all the gauges, etc. is a birds nest. If I start from the harness, should I worry about wire color, or just shrink label the new wiring? What's your experience? Also, I need to know what wire gauges I should have on hand for all wiring (lights, battery to helm, etc.)? Thanks again!
@@BuenoToob If you're referring to the engine harness, your best option might simply be to buy a new or good used engine harness w/ key switch for that motor ($100-$200). Then add a gauge harness ($40-$50). That way you'd have everything you need and peace of mind knowing it's done correctly.
If you're referring to the accessory harness (for nav lights, horn, docking lights, etc) then you can use what's there and splice in your own wires to the dash or to each accessory. The alternative is the wiring harness from pontoonstuff.com which is $120 but one of the biggest time saving items I put on any boat.
In general, 16 gauge wire is your best bet, especially if you're stacking LEDs on that single run. LEDs by themselves are fine with 18 gauge, but when I wire multiple LED strips into a single core wire that runs to the switch I go with 16 gauge.
We purchased the Marpac throttle from PontoonStuff and have questions about installation on the Luxury Pontoon Console.
The installation manual and your video illustrates the shift throttle arm on the left side. This configuration doesn’t work on the Luxury Pontoon Console when using a typical 14” steering wheel, but flipping the throttle so the arm is on the right would fit. My question is, do you have any concerns with, and advice for installing the throttle so that the arm is on the right? Is it as simple as flipping the orientation and flipping the push/pull mechanism?
I’ve seen that done on a number of occasions. No concerns as long as you’re installing everything to push or pull to properly operate the shift mechanism and throttle!
Hi Tom, I have bullets on the cables at mariner 1994 60 motor. My current shifter is a vintage morse and there are no bullets at the current shifter. The number on the cable is Morse 32377-3-240in 7556. Can I use these cables or do I need to purchase new ones? If I need new cables, any idea where to purchse. I purchase this Marpac shifter based on this video.. Great Job!!
I wish I had a better answer for you! I would contact Marpac and ask if those cables will work (owned by Donovan Marine). From there, you could run Gen 1 Mercury/Quicksilver cables, and you can get those at any Mercury dealer or online based in 1 ft increments. You’d likely need that adapter kit for those!
Thanks for the help!
@@jeel2235 you betcha!
Hi Tom I installed the marpac single lever control 7-0118. I had a mariner. I bought the extenion kit. The screw on cable end that come in the marpac kit are to fat for the extenion to lock on. Any ideas
Send me a picture of what you’re working with…there a chance you could drill out the holes in the extension kit? Enough material left there to work with?
TomsPontoons@gmail.com
Where can I get the black composite instrument cluster/dash panel? Pontoon stuff no longer has it as an option with their consoles
I hope they’ll be offering it again soon. It’s been almost 2 years since it was able to be ordered. Much harder to source those types of quality components than it would seem, but they’re working hard on it from what I hear!
Nice! Thanks! Again.
Happy to help!!
Hey Tom really digging your channel and content , I've learned a lot from you , thanks for sharing your knowledge,, party on.
Hey King Fish! Thanks so much for the kind words and for watching our channel. We'll keep working hard to put out more content to help all the DIY boaters out there!
Your audio is great, must be a stereo mic setup
We actually need to start using a microphone for a lot of what we record!! The camera does great for up close stuff, but loses quality fast when not close or at the right angle!!
Thanks for watching!!
Greetings Tom, do they make an angled spacer that can be placed between the shift throttle and the helm console for added clearance?
Not that I’ve ever seen. I imagine something could be machined out of plastic or aluminum pretty easily though.
I see Yamaha and Suzuki make them. I will try the Yamaha bc the 702 series closely resemble the Johnson Evinrude binnacle throttle shifter. Any differences may be subtle and modified, definitely worth the $20 investment that I can use as a reference for a fabricator.
@@awakenedtotruth8419 perfect! You can probably make your own also with a jig saw and some marine plastic (starboard). It comes in a variety of thicknesses and sizes. Worth looking into as it seems like it would be an easy project.
@Toms Toons Pontoon Refurbishing
YES! I 4got all about starboard, and I heard it shapes up easily and clean. Last time I looked into Starboard, it was a bit pricy and came in a large section. I will try again. Thanks, Tom.
Would you be willing to give the link for the Marpac binnacle remote for my 2003 Mercury Bigfoot four-stroke. When I do a search on Amazon I get tons of options and don't know which to choose? Be sure to attach your referral ID to get credit. Thanks
This is the same control box I installed, came from Pontoon Stuff. Enter “TOMSTOONS” for 5% off at checkout.
www.pontoonstuff.com/products/marpac-universal-pontoon-throttle
@@tomspontoons Done and done. Thanks for the discount!
@@BuenoToob happy to help! Remember that you might need the adapter kit I referenced in the video!! I think I gave all the info for that kit
You’re pretty smart!
Just a guy doing his best over here!!
what binnacle can you mount in the standard console. i have a mercury 60 hp bigfoot. i don't need an ignition switch just power trim
I’ve installed some of the older Mercury Binnacle mount controls on the standard console. They were slimmer width wise so it worked. It gets crowded with the steering wheel. I prefer to do a side mount box on the railing or side of the console when working with the standard console.
@@tomspontoons Do you remember which controls they were? If I can I would prefer to keep it on the console somehow. I just can't seem to find anything that gives me total dim's to know if it will fit.
Thanks
@@gregloughe4647 A side mount control box can be bolted to the side of the standard console from Pontoon Stuff. I've done that a time or two. It would have the ignition switch and harness built right in.
The binnacle I've used looks like the one linked below. I'll say it again though...it's still a very tight squeeze. Works fine, and doesn't interfere with the steering wheel, but it's tight!
www.ebay.com/itm/175321312186?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=175321312186&targetid=1645685074008&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9017200&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685074008&abcId=9300841&merchantid=102014396&gclid=CjwKCAjwtp2bBhAGEiwAOZZTuKl_Io-iJgQIWTYj35tfLHXp5LCL1EH7SgcSolwcbgyyM_nBXJ5LIRoCqrQQAvD_BwE
@@tomspontoons Thanks
@@gregloughe4647 happy to help!
How can I get ahold of you ,I have some questions
Hey Mike,
Shoot me an email: TomsPontoons@gmail.com
Alarm will not stop beeping------I bought a pontoon boat with a 1994 mercury mariner. All of the wiring was cut and on the floor. I bought a six wire ignition, after market. that is suposed to be merucury. The wires matched to old ignition: red, black, black yellow stripe, yellow red, yellow black, purple. The alarm was connected to the purple ignition wire so I connected it the same. there are leads going to a gauge. I started without connecting to the gauge then I connected to the gauge. The alarm beeps when I turn on the key and does not stop. I dont know what I am doing. Can someone guide me how to wire it correctly?
Thanks You!!!!!
I’m not an outboard mechanic…I’ll never claim to be. I can rig them and do maintenance, but some details are over my head. I generally know enough to be helpful, but the pros are who you need to seek out.
That being said…Your alarm will sound solid horn for overheat and intermittent for low oil. I’m only really familiar with using the OEM harness (8 wire) from Mercury. If you hook the horn to purple you’re simply connecting it to the key on power, so you’re just powering it up to sound with the key. I believe it needs to be connected to an alarm wire which I think is tan with blue. Your 6 wire harness is missing some critical wires including the gray tach wire which makes me think it’s not the right harness for having an alarm horn wired in…perhaps it’s for an older model motor that isn’t oil injected or for a lower hp motor that’s not equipped with those signal wires.
Call or stop in to a local marina, buy some oil and stuff for your boat to support them, and ask the service manager for help…that’s what I’d do!
At 1:15 of this video there’s a chart to break down different ignition harness wires for different outboards!!
ua-cam.com/video/yDOqxwb_RLE/v-deo.html
i videoes are alsome tom
So glad you’re liking them!! Thanks so much for the kind words!