I have no idea how you took the pilot bearing off so easily. I'm in the process of removing mine and I have had to resort to carefully cutting it out with a rotary tool since my slide hammer tool did not work.
Look from 5:48 into the video and on. The puller is a poor design. We add an insert inside of it. Otherwise it was not working. Basically, the inner part that pushes to expand the diameter of the extremity of the puller (part that grabs the pilot bearing), was pushing far from the grabbing extremity. Leaving the grabbing extremity un-supported from inside. So the grabbing extremity was able to spring toward the inside - Slipping off of the pilot bearing and losing its grip. Inserting a piece of metal with about a similar angle than the inside of the grabbing extremity, provided support. That prevented the grabbing extremity to collapse toward the inside and lose its grip on the pilot bearing. Other wise, that would have been just impossible to remove the bearing with the puller.
Just use a grease gun and the Lincoln tip 5803. There a port inside. Pump that bitch and it comes out in 5 seconds lol save the muscle when you put the tranny back on.
Im stuck on driving the pilot beairng into that spline hole. May need a heavier hammer. I was using a heavy rubber hammer to keep the nose down. Looking at the old pilot bearing when driving into the hole it stretches as the hole is more coned than rectangular.
I'm not sure I fully get what you said. I'll try to answer you as best as I can... The hole in the spline shaft is not splined. I'm not sure if you meant the spline shaft, or that your hole seems splined. I hope/assume you have removed the old bearing first like the video. If you haven't, you have to do so (the roller bearings can look a bit like it's a spline hole if you have not remove the bearing). If you have removed the bearing, look at the hole and clean it. It should not look splined. Inspect it. You should see a nice machined hole. I am not sure what you mean by "Looking at the old pilot bearing..." The old bearing have to be removed in order to put the new one in place. So I assume you have it removed, and you are looking at it to make sense for putting the new one in. The hole is not like a cone. It should be like a cylinder. I hope this helps. I would suggest that you pay attention on the video to the part where I'm removing the bearing 4:05 and the part where I'm installing it 10:25 Whish you the best of luck
@@quebecdiy9906 Thanks for the reply. I already took out the old pilot bearing. I have a E89 2012 Z4 35i with same transmission as the E82 shown in your vid. I am unable to install the new pilot bearing. I have destroyed two so far. I tried to drive it in exactly as you were doing and the end of the bearing broke out. On the second bearing I also tried driving the bearing in from the front with an install tool the same OD as the bearing. It went in about half way and would not go in any further. I applied more force and the front of the bearing came apart. There is nothign inside of the hole obstructing. The last thing I have in mind to is freeze the bearing. Im in a hot climate environment.
@@ToeNailBreaker Putting the new bearing in was the easy part. Freezing the new bearing might be a good idea, but it was not necessary at all on my end. I would suggest 2 things... 1. Measure and inspect your hole. I know you said you did, but I would look even closer to make sure of its dimension and that it is cylinder and not a cone (make sure of its surface finish and that you don't have remaining bearing part or rust in it) 2. I would measure the new bearing and compare it to the hole. You can have a little press fit may be (something around 0.005" may be, but nothing crazy like a press fit of 0.30"). May be you have the wrong new bearing part (that can happen sometimes) When I put it in, it was kind of easy. I mean like nothing stand out like "it's a heal of a press fit" I hope this helps
@@quebecdiy9906 Was able to get the pilot bearing in and flushed after going through about 5 mini cans of freon lol. The hole on the input shaft goes from 24.xx mm reduce to 22.xx mm. Checked the old orignal bearing and its OD was 24.xx mm to 22.xx mm . It was defintley pressed into that hole from the factory reducing its size. Not sure why they made such variation with the transmission. So hopefully this can help also someone else stuck on this.
autopart (if I remember correctly). In doubt that you won't get the right component... With the dealer you can't go wrong. And I'm not sure there is a huge price difference.
Hi, I don't know about the 318... You can always look on realoem.com and I would suggest you to look at it, since it can give you an exploded view of it. But in my case, when you try to figure out how the fork will move the bearing... It could only go in this way. I guess you already know, but just in case you don't... When you push on the clutch pedal... The fork will push the bearing against the pressure plate... Against those kind of metal fingers. So the bearing has to be on the side that will bolt to the engine... And the fork has to be further, or behind it... I hope these could help you out.
I have no idea how you took the pilot bearing off so easily. I'm in the process of removing mine and I have had to resort to carefully cutting it out with a rotary tool since my slide hammer tool did not work.
Look from 5:48 into the video and on. The puller is a poor design. We add an insert inside of it. Otherwise it was not working.
Basically, the inner part that pushes to expand the diameter of the extremity of the puller (part that grabs the pilot bearing), was pushing far from the grabbing extremity.
Leaving the grabbing extremity un-supported from inside. So the grabbing extremity was able to spring toward the inside - Slipping off of the pilot bearing and losing its grip.
Inserting a piece of metal with about a similar angle than the inside of the grabbing extremity, provided support.
That prevented the grabbing extremity to collapse toward the inside and lose its grip on the pilot bearing.
Other wise, that would have been just impossible to remove the bearing with the puller.
@@quebecdiy9906 yeah those blind bearing pullers are shit!! good video and good insight!
Just use a grease gun and the Lincoln tip 5803. There a port inside. Pump that bitch and it comes out in 5 seconds lol save the muscle when you put the tranny back on.
Im stuck on driving the pilot beairng into that spline hole. May need a heavier hammer. I was using a heavy rubber hammer to keep the nose down. Looking at the old pilot bearing when driving into the hole it stretches as the hole is more coned than rectangular.
I'm not sure I fully get what you said. I'll try to answer you as best as I can...
The hole in the spline shaft is not splined. I'm not sure if you meant the spline shaft, or that your hole seems splined. I hope/assume you have removed the old bearing first like the video. If you haven't, you have to do so (the roller bearings can look a bit like it's a spline hole if you have not remove the bearing). If you have removed the bearing, look at the hole and clean it. It should not look splined. Inspect it. You should see a nice machined hole.
I am not sure what you mean by "Looking at the old pilot bearing..." The old bearing have to be removed in order to put the new one in place. So I assume you have it removed, and you are looking at it to make sense for putting the new one in. The hole is not like a cone. It should be like a cylinder.
I hope this helps. I would suggest that you pay attention on the video to the part where I'm removing the bearing 4:05 and the part where I'm installing it 10:25
Whish you the best of luck
@@quebecdiy9906 Thanks for the reply. I already took out the old pilot bearing. I have a E89 2012 Z4 35i with same transmission as the E82 shown in your vid. I am unable to install the new pilot bearing. I have destroyed two so far. I tried to drive it in exactly as you were doing and the end of the bearing broke out. On the second bearing I also tried driving the bearing in from the front with an install tool the same OD as the bearing. It went in about half way and would not go in any further. I applied more force and the front of the bearing came apart. There is nothign inside of the hole obstructing. The last thing I have in mind to is freeze the bearing. Im in a hot climate environment.
@@ToeNailBreaker Putting the new bearing in was the easy part. Freezing the new bearing might be a good idea, but it was not necessary at all on my end.
I would suggest 2 things...
1. Measure and inspect your hole. I know you said you did, but I would look even closer to make sure of its dimension and that it is cylinder and not a cone (make sure of its surface finish and that you don't have remaining bearing part or rust in it)
2. I would measure the new bearing and compare it to the hole. You can have a little press fit may be (something around 0.005" may be, but nothing crazy like a press fit of 0.30"). May be you have the wrong new bearing part (that can happen sometimes)
When I put it in, it was kind of easy. I mean like nothing stand out like "it's a heal of a press fit"
I hope this helps
@@quebecdiy9906 Was able to get the pilot bearing in and flushed after going through about 5 mini cans of freon lol. The hole on the input shaft goes from 24.xx mm reduce to 22.xx mm. Checked the old orignal bearing and its OD was 24.xx mm to 22.xx mm . It was defintley pressed into that hole from the factory reducing its size. Not sure why they made such variation with the transmission. So hopefully this can help also someone else stuck on this.
@@ToeNailBreaker Thanks for sharing... Weird though, mine was straight cylinder. At least you seem to have a win. Happy for you.
Were did you get your new throw out bearing ?
autopart (if I remember correctly). In doubt that you won't get the right component... With the dealer you can't go wrong. And I'm not sure there is a huge price difference.
Hi how do you know that thé release bearing should bé installed with thé short side up ? I have a 318 e91 and i dont know how to install, thanks
Hi, I don't know about the 318... You can always look on realoem.com and I would suggest you to look at it, since it can give you an exploded view of it.
But in my case, when you try to figure out how the fork will move the bearing... It could only go in this way. I guess you already know, but just in case you don't...
When you push on the clutch pedal... The fork will push the bearing against the pressure plate... Against those kind of metal fingers. So the bearing has to be on the side that will bolt to the engine... And the fork has to be further, or behind it...
I hope these could help you out.