Відео

Hi, sorry you had a bump in the road. I am not sure which plastic you are referring that broke on you. You can always give me a time in the video or a part number to look for on oem.com if you feel it's needed. But one thing to mention (if you already know, just ignore...) for all case (except perhaps very rare occasion that doesn't come to mind at this time) when there is a bolt to torque with a 2nd, or more torquing stage that involves angular specs: you always need to replace the bolts. Angular torque is meant to create a controlled permanent deformation of the bolt during the torque. This permanent deformation is calculated based on a new bolt that didn't have a permanent deformation yet. Using an old bolt might result on a bolt that will break during the torque stages, or in function, or if you are lucky and it doesn't break, the bolt might have less holding strength (even though that sounds counter intuitive). You can think of it like a paper clip. If you pull one end of it lightly and release it... The paper clip get back to its original position, and no one can tell you pulled out on its leg. But if you pull hard on it, when you release the paper clip's leg, it comes back only partially. The paper clip at rest has now an open leg kind of. When you torque a bolt with an angular torque spec, it does like the paper clip permanently disformed. And if you go again back and forth with the paper clip's leg, it will break on you. Same thing as if you re-use a bolt that has been torqued with angular torque specs... it has been permanently disformed, and it is very likely to break if it goes through the torquing cycle again. I hope this help. If you're are using a new bolt, there should be no reason to not give it the remaining torque angle to reach the specs. Again, there is something I am not sure to get about the plastic that broke on you. I wish you good success in your repair.

I'm not sure I fully get what you said. I'll try to answer you as best as I can... The hole in the spline shaft is not splined. I'm not sure if you meant the spline shaft, or that your hole seems splined. I hope/assume you have removed the old bearing first like the video. If you haven't, you have to do so (the roller bearings can look a bit like it's a spline hole if you have not remove the bearing). If you have removed the bearing, look at the hole and clean it. It should not look splined. Inspect it. You should see a nice machined hole. I am not sure what you mean by "Looking at the old pilot bearing..." The old bearing have to be removed in order to put the new one in place. So I assume you have it removed, and you are looking at it to make sense for putting the new one in. The hole is not like a cone. It should be like a cylinder. I hope this helps. I would suggest that you pay attention on the video to the part where I'm removing the bearing 4:05 and the part where I'm installing it 10:25 Whish you the best of luck

@@quebecdiy9906 Thanks for the reply. I already took out the old pilot bearing. I have a E89 2012 Z4 35i with same transmission as the E82 shown in your vid. I am unable to install the new pilot bearing. I have destroyed two so far. I tried to drive it in exactly as you were doing and the end of the bearing broke out. On the second bearing I also tried driving the bearing in from the front with an install tool the same OD as the bearing. It went in about half way and would not go in any further. I applied more force and the front of the bearing came apart. There is nothign inside of the hole obstructing. The last thing I have in mind to is freeze the bearing. Im in a hot climate environment.

@@ToeNailBreaker Putting the new bearing in was the easy part. Freezing the new bearing might be a good idea, but it was not necessary at all on my end. I would suggest 2 things... 1. Measure and inspect your hole. I know you said you did, but I would look even closer to make sure of its dimension and that it is cylinder and not a cone (make sure of its surface finish and that you don't have remaining bearing part or rust in it) 2. I would measure the new bearing and compare it to the hole. You can have a little press fit may be (something around 0.005" may be, but nothing crazy like a press fit of 0.30"). May be you have the wrong new bearing part (that can happen sometimes) When I put it in, it was kind of easy. I mean like nothing stand out like "it's a heal of a press fit" I hope this helps

@@quebecdiy9906 Was able to get the pilot bearing in and flushed after going through about 5 mini cans of freon lol. The hole on the input shaft goes from 24.xx mm reduce to 22.xx mm. Checked the old orignal bearing and its OD was 24.xx mm to 22.xx mm . It was defintley pressed into that hole from the factory reducing its size. Not sure why they made such variation with the transmission. So hopefully this can help also someone else stuck on this.

@@ToeNailBreaker Thanks for sharing... Weird though, mine was straight cylinder. At least you seem to have a win. Happy for you.

Hope for you as well it is just the sensor. Just in case you didn't know... When you delete a code, the computer is going to realize (once again if the anomaly is still there) that something is wrong. Then it will manage your engine/injection in a weird way trying to troubleshoot itself over a certain period of time. That can explained the behavior you had (would cut power). Wish you the best inexpensive and smooth fix!

It is on video: 40 BMW 135i N54 E82 - Engine Rebuild - Rings End Play, Crank Shaft, Main Bearings. Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/_OGNgIyWq9E/v-deo.html

You are right about it. But by experience, this tool doesn't work very well as you described above. Good to know about the tool you are suggesting. I'll consider it when/if there is a need to replace the actual one. Thanks for your feedback.

I honestly don't know so much about X6... But it doesn't sound to me like any of those 2 things. Vanos is the BMW valve timing system. It is like an hydraulic proportional valve that shifts the valve timing of the cams. I would suggest you to check on BMW forums for your matter and take some time to read/look for a thread related to your issue. Just be aware that some comments are more valuable than others on forums...

I'm not sure what you are referring to (yours or mine on the video). If it is on the video, if you can mention at what time into it... But I'm guessing you are referring about the "dark color" like at 2:22 into it... If so, it is not a worry. What matters is the "straighteness" of the surface, not the look. If it is dark but a good surface (no cracks, denivelation, ...) then it is good. Keep in mind that this is living in oil when the engine is running. The bearing will not slip. There is a notch often times on one side (like at 3:19 into the video). But also, due to the tight clearance on the diameter (bearing to crank) and also the bearing is located sideways in the crank... not much room to move sideways. I hope this answer your question.

If you go at 1:08 into the video... the bottom part on the video is the front end of the car. I hope this answers your question.

@@quebecdiy9906 thanks man, appreciate it

Yes, correct. There is no importance on which side you do first. The important thing is to (as you mentioned) make it leak a little bit to make sure it has filled the groove. And for your other question, I was good with 1 tube. Good luck on your project! :)

@@quebecdiy9906 awesome!! Thank you for the reply!! I will be watching and liking all the videos in your series. Thanks again for the effort you put into these videos. Life saver 👏🏾🙏🏾❤️

Good to know. Thanks for sharing. So far so good on my end though...

@@quebecdiy9906 I'm doing mine tomorrow. Great cars!

If you have both of them failing then it's probably because your rear spring or damper are either blown or on their way out...might as well swap them while you're down there lol.

If I got you right.... You are talking about the pin that locks the crank in position for the engine timing? If I got you right, and you broke that pin in place... That is bad! Here is what I would do... It is a bit of a pain, but since it is a very bad position to be, you don't want to miss out So I would 1. Remove the transmission from the engine 2. Remove the fly wheel/torque converter (I think the pin locates into them) 3. Check behind the clutch/torque converter if you can see the broken pin. If lucky enough so it stands out, Try to remove it with a vise grip (use vise grip brand, as other brand might not work as well) 4. If the pin is in the hole with nothing that stands out of the hole, I would suggest to bring the clutch/torque converter (if the pin is stuck in it) to a welder. You need a good one, not a rookie (unless he/she is very good). Explain you need an arc rod to be stick to the pin to pull out the pin. IMPORTANT: generate as little heat as possible to avoid warping the clutch/torque converter. Ideally inspect the surface runout after with a dial indicator to make sure it didn't warp. If it did, get it fixed or replaced. I hope it answers the question. And if I got you right, I wish you patience and good luck getting it out.

@@quebecdiy9906 thanks alot

Make more room... Sure... Does it worth it... Not sure, I honestly don't know. There could be many ways to do it. This is the one I took.

Indeed! Glad it's over with. Hope you don't have the same.

Can't find it... But it was either on amazon or ebay. If I remember correctly, they were for motorcycle. I remember that I have checked for the diameter of the part that holds the valve, and also for the clearance... And that was it. I thought I already answered that question, so I checked below, but didn't found it. Perhaps I did in another related video. So I would suggest as you watch other videos for the valves, perhaps have a quick check in the comments (I thought perhaps I have posted the link to it... but maybe I did not in the end). Hope this helps

I'd like to help you on that, but mine doesn't have traction to the front wheel (no differential up front). But in such case, I like to think in terms of reward/extra work to try it. I hope as little as it is, this helps you. Good luck on your project!

I honestly don't remember, as it's been some times I did it. I know it was a special "stronger" kind of torx for head cylinder bolts (like the points of the star pattern were thicker on the torx tool for those). But for the chain guide I think they were regular torx, but I don't remember the size.

Sorry about your misadventure! :( Glad the my channel is a good help to you. I have a few more videos to shoot, but I won't be able short term (pretty tied up into other things at the moment). Meanwhile, car is doing good. Break in period... I just ran it smooth (about 3,000 rpm) max for the first about 5,000km to give it a chance to settle properly. Then I changed the oil (sooner than normal oil change) to get rid of any potential thing in the oil. And that's about it. Pretty much everything encountered has been covered in the videos on the channel. Video "00 BMW 135i N54 E82 - Videos List and notes" is your best place to start (you probably already knew) since it is the complete list of related videos. The videos toward the end, are the ones addressing issues that came up. ua-cam.com/video/bDlcxH5KNHo/v-deo.html

Thanks for your comment. I'm not sure I had to (or perhaps I misunderstood)... If of any help... I have performed the videos in number order. So prior to this one, I have done the task in video 04. The complete list of videos is showed in video 00... ua-cam.com/video/bDlcxH5KNHo/v-deo.html It is possible sometimes if you don't have the exact same kind of tool that you might have to go through a different path. So thank you for your input, as some other people might use the same path you did.

@@quebecdiy9906 In my case the rubber attached to the fan detaches as in your video. I however found that with the pipe attached to the intercooler..the plastic piece on the pipe where the rubber sat prevented the fan from passing. Disconnecting the pipe from the intercooler allowed it to move backwards allowing the fan to pass. Everything is so tightly packed in that area its amazing really.

Hi, I don't know about the 318... You can always look on realoem.com and I would suggest you to look at it, since it can give you an exploded view of it. But in my case, when you try to figure out how the fork will move the bearing... It could only go in this way. I guess you already know, but just in case you don't... When you push on the clutch pedal... The fork will push the bearing against the pressure plate... Against those kind of metal fingers. So the bearing has to be on the side that will bolt to the engine... And the fork has to be further, or behind it... I hope these could help you out.

Quebecdiy08@gmail.com

Glad it helped

go check on realoem.com Put in your VIN and You should find it

@@quebecdiy9906 I put my vin in and then i did the way of plugging it in via chassis, build date,trim,engine size,and which direction steering it is I get no match- I get vin and combination not recognized-theres an issue with realoem for UKDM prelci 116i's thats why i asked

@@naliinsuthakaran2967 I am not sure to understand which part exactly you are looking for, but when I do search part number, I use realoem.com in most cases Here is how I use it (in case You put in the last 7 digits of your VIN Click "search" Then scroll down and click "Browse Parts" If that doesn't work, I don't know, perhaps your model came before realoem That being said, if you are looking for the "underhood shield" (as I think you might are) you can use the search field (upper right corner) in realoem once you have put in your VIN last 7 digits and clicked "Browse Parts". Here is another thing I would try not sure it will work though as it might be built on the same kind of thing as realoem... Who knows, worth the try... shop.bmw.ca/ Even though it is not your country, you can search your part number through this website (using the "Search By VIN"). Last resource: I would call the dealer. Good luck in your search!

@@quebecdiy9906 Yes my vin is not recognised a lot of the UK registered cars have this issue realoem are trying to fix it i emailed them I guess I will call the dealer then

Thanks for the feedback!

I honestly don't know. I would check on www.realoem.com or on dealer web sites to see if it is the same part number. Or you can check with the dealer directly. You can probably buy used one from scrap or on ebay or something like that. Good luck on your research.

autopart (if I remember correctly). In doubt that you won't get the right component... With the dealer you can't go wrong. And I'm not sure there is a huge price difference.

I had the engine removed for other things to fix. So it was easier this way. It is possible to remove the oil pan with the engine in place, but you have to remove things under it to do so (like the front axle support, and maybe more).

Malheureusement, ce n*est pas possible. Par contre, vous pouvez facilement trouver le kit d*outil, ce n*est pas trės dispendieux. Amazon, eBay.

You could, but the shocks were working fine beside that.

Runs well. :)

Specs -> through BMW forums references and dealer assistance. Parts: the more work it was to access the part, the more likely I took it from the dealer. I would have feel stupid to have to dig again because trying to save a few bucks.

Don't pay attention to it. I just had to install it meanwhile. This was a mistake - they were supposed to be both drilled. I just installed it until I received the replacement for the mistake. Didn't drive with it.

Skipping a tooth: unlikely, unless you have a problem with your binder Bearing done: perhaps, but might be other things My guess is you didn't make such a mistake, but did you put in low octane fuel? If you are not use to go down deep mechanic, just make sure you can back track if you need to. Than consider sending your car to the dealer or a specialized garage with BMWs. First you can drop your engine oil if you are about to any ways. Try to see if you have metal flakes in it as well. (might be difficult as many devices have the oil go straight in a container). Second of, you will have to remove your cylinder head cover and inspect visually what is wrong. You might have to turn your engine through the crank pulley, turning it clock wise with a wrench. This will allow you to see if every thing seems to work properly You can also check on BMW forums to see if anybody else went through something similar. I wish you the best in your research/inspection. Wish you a quick and cheap fix. Let me know how it went, what you found.

What was the problem? I’m having the same issues 3100 code for limp mode & 2e68 knock sensor bank 1 I changed the knock sensor but I’m still having this issue 2007 335i 204.000km

Sealant for crankcase: I was good with one tube. Check / buy it when you're almost there... There's an expiration date on it.

atelierchampion.com/

I never used any vacuum step. Normally running the bleeding procedure once should be enough. But you will see, when the water jet going back into your coolant expansion tank is steady, you have no more air. When you have air, the water jet will be interrupted with air pockets on and off. So if you still have air, you can always run it twice, there is no down side of doing so, beside about another 10 - 15 min.

When you torque with the angle torque specs, your bolts are permanently deformed. When you removed them, you have to replaced them. Since the plasti-gauge operation is intended to verify the gap, there is no need to torque up to the operational torque and deformed the bolts. The way I did it, allowed me to use my new bolts both for checking the gap with the plasti-gauge and the engine re-assembly.

@@quebecdiy9906 I guess what I'm not understanding is the angle and how that impacts the clearance. It seems to me by not doing the angle, the clearance would read wider. Does the angle not close the clearance more?

@@JamieMeloni When you torque your bolts, there is no more gap. If there is still a gap, when you turn the bolt it moves without much resistance. It is when you have no more gap that you are finding resistance and being able to torque them. The angle torque that is added for the "operational torque" will not close the gap any further. This "operational torque" is necessary to sustain heat and stress under engine operating condition, and also to prevent the bolts to unscrew while in operation. But just to crush a piece of plasti-gauge in order to evaluate your gap, it is not needed, and further more not advised. I would say if you are really worry that it is not enough torque to check the gap, you can search for the generally used torque for bolts of that diameter (the threaded diameter) and torque them to that level. My gut feeling would be somewhere around or below 20 lb-ft. But one thing for sure, stay away from angle torque for checking your plasti-gauge, as these are to create a permanent deformation in your bolts (called yield torque, in another word: one hell of a torque). Finally, torquing bolts with the angle specs more than once... can lead the bolts to break! Doesn't mean it will, but it could. Think about when you fold back and forth a paper clip... Eventually it breaks. Hope this helps answering your question.

@@quebecdiy9906 perfect explanation, thanks so much! I've been studying the rebuild of my N55 for 3 months now and getting parts in place to repair. Im about to begin the build now and your videos have been extremely helpful.

@@JamieMeloni Glad it helps! :)

Thanks for your comment/question. Actually... no. The oil wasn't coming from filling oil drops. It was engine leaks. This video is the first of the whole process/job to fix it. Here is the link to the entire list of videos ua-cam.com/video/bDlcxH5KNHo/v-deo.html

@@quebecdiy9906 Sorry, I don’t quite think you understand, I’m thanking you for this video because I dropped my engine oil cap into the splash shield. I didn’t know how to get rid of it and this video saved me lots of money.

@@leki.e87 Oh! You're dead on, I didn't get you the first time. Glad it helped you out. The ground effect is nice for the drive, but it s... when you drop something.

I'd like to help you, but I didn't open my vacuum pump. I would check with the dealer about it. Often, you can ask a small question like that to the parts clerk. He will ask one of the mechanic if he doesn't know. Else, I would try to see first if the pump is lubricated with an engine oil port. Then, I would also consider the condition it was in when you took it apart (oiled or not, and what kind of oil).

Well, if you bought it for your make, year and model, they should. In doubt, you can always compare the hold ones with the one you bought to make sure.

At the time I did my engine rework, there were none available on the after market or at the dealer. I have contacted a friend of mine that is machinist. I brought him the cylinder head, I had one valve guide removed. We took measurements. He also made me tools to install them as you can see in the video. If you don't have such a friend, you might need to look for a machine shop in your area. I would suggest you to watch the video carefully and take notes. Talk with the machinist/machine shop they will be able to fill the gap with you no problem.

You should check in the video to make sure we're talking about the same bolts, but they must to be replaced.

If it is what I've seen... aluminium blocks bolted on the outside of the engine... This is very useless, and makes no sense what so ever. There are 2 locating pins to locate any split in an engine (on the split surface, generally near opposite corners on a diagonal). Nothing would replace that or should replace that. The outside of an engine could have oxidation, bumps or whatever. It will never serves as locating reference for the inside. And it would never provide the locating precision that an engine requires. On top of that, it can damage the split surface when trying to put the two parts back together (bumping on the surface if it is that well tight/located). Finally, you can only have one locating system. Any system over that would be either useless or in contradiction with the main one.