Axle Housing welding repairs
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- Hey guys, I know its been a while since my last post. Had a lot going on. I have about 3 videos that are now in line for editing. Hopefully I can get to them soon. Thank you for the support and I hope you pick up a few pointers from this post. Kick back, relax and break out your favorite drink or snack.
That’s my axle housing. Thank you for the work did, in a relatively short turnaround. Our 66 IH Pickup is back on the road!
Oh, excellent. Please let me know if anything comes up.
Your preheat is about the most simple and thorough heat method have seen.
It's always refreshing to see a professional show how versatile stick welding is rather than showing off the new $2k million settings mig everything machine, MIG has it's place in the production world but I don't see much use for it on small projects.
Keep on fixing the junk 👍
You are so humble. Most youtubers would have claimed that they did grind the hole into the housing on purpose and give some obscure reason. You admit: it stinks. Admitting mistakes shows true mastership.
If you're looking for through-wall defects you can put dye on one side and developer on the other. After whatever dwell time suits you, you can process the dye as per normal to check that side for indications too.
As soon as I saw you set this axle on your horses I thought of Bare Knuckle Binder. Now I'll watch your video and find out, enjoy all of your content Isaac . Easy going pleasant manner and great tips. Best regards, mjm
Well, He DID bring it to me.😄😄😄. It was for a buddy of his.
I love it when the internet tells you that Cast Iron CANNOT be welded LOL
Years ago I was restoring an old drill press, the table had a "Smile of shame" on it multiple holes drilled into the table of the drill press in an arc shape.
I talked to a couple of old timers and they said to just grind it out so there was fresh metal showing and heat it up to the point where water would dance on it like a frying pan, then weld it. After I welded it with a MIG gas welder I peened the welds with a small ballpeen hammer then wrapped the table in blankets and let it cool off, I then ground it flat and you can barely see where it was welded. Its been crack free for about 15 years or so now.
Great video, I really enjoy your content.
Cheer from Tokyo!
Thats a good pointer. Heating it like a frying pan., Nice.
Great video, glad to see new content from you! Almost looked like a vertical crack above the pinion bore on the inside.
thought t he same thing. Would be fitting considering the opposing force and damage.
The pinion gear had a fight with the ring gear.....did anybody win? Well I guess that's a matter of a pinion. 🤦♂
Ha. good one!
@@ICWeld It doesn't come anywhere remotely as good as your welding Isaac, not even in the same Galaxy. You sir are *tres magnifique!* 👍👍
The welder won, that's who
Lol
Hah!
Another fantastic video Isaac. Your attention to detail and careful preparation of the job is what I think sets you apart from the average "rod burner" out there. I was thinking as I watched your video that even though I live a little over 1000 miles from your city if I had a job that required precise and careful work it would almost be worth it for me to take it to you. Great job on the welding and the video too.
Welcome back! One of three of my favorite professional repair persons. Keep up the awesome work and videos!👍👍👍
Who are your other two Favs? I'd like to check them out.
I’m betting one is CEE, and another is either Eric O or Ivan(pine hollow auto diag)
CEE and snowball engineering i reckon.
@@ICWeld 😁😁
@@lolzlarkin3059 Snowball Engineering is awesome!
Thank you for lowering the sound of the loud noisy processes! That makes the video much better. Great job.
Thanks for sharing another repair from the masters seat. We enjoy looking over your shoulder and the special details you bring to us through your videos.
Always learn something. One of my favorite UA-cam channels.
I appreciate that!
Isaac, I was on a job where we had to clean equipment that was involved in food manufacturing, and the final step was to sterilize the equipment with a similar heater. It did the job, but the fumes weren't good.
Nice work there young man . Great to see an experienced man admit it aint pretty but it'll hold. I'm sure there's a fair few of us here that are happy what we weld holds together and ain't pretty but definitely functional. Great idea on the explanation of welding inside first and reasons on why stick and not mig . Great to see more of your skill and another video . Looking forwards to your next one on whatever it is . Never get disappointed with your videos always an explanation and description on the hows and whys . Thanks
I stick with the stick , so I always appreciate the masterclasses you give.
Great job! As my grandpa would say” looks like the bull gear jumped the heifer shaft”. Thanks for the content.
Hello from Alabama my friend greatly enjoy your videos.
Nice to see someone in North America still has old school skill to repair almost anything. Those skills are mostly seen over seas in India Pakistan and Asian. Nice work sir!!!
Another interesting project, thanks for sharing Issac.
I hate it when other peoples real lives interfere with my free entertainment! 🤣 LOL Thanks so much for sharing your skills and expertise whenever you can. Stay safe and focus on what is important first. Be Blessed!!!!!!
I would have drilled a small hole at the end of the crack, to alleviate the chance of the crack progressing in future. Heating up the whole casting is, in my opinion, the best thing to slow down the cooling rate of your weld. Stick welding with high graphite flux rods is the best approach, keeping the amps down to avoid undercutting the weld. At the end of the day we all have our own methods to producing the best weld we can. I've TIG brazed cast iron, when the section was thin and using reduced amps to avoid melting the base material. Good post, thank you 👍
I started out welding donkeys years ago with a tombstone stick welder & back then, rods were like gold-dust where we lived. You thought long & hard about how you were best going to burn that rod because they were in far from endless supply & 6013 was all you could get hold of. 1mm bodywork? Stick weld. Cast iron? Stick weld. Chassis repairs? Stick. With 2.5 or 3.2 6013. If you had 10 rods to hand, that was "Loads of rods" lol - now we have boxes of 200's laying about & taken for granted.
I gradually got loads Posher & got Tig & good Mig machines - for mobile stuff, big diesels running stick & small , light posh Mig machines for site use. I still use Mig & flux core wire machines all day for work. There is however a certain satisfaction in being able to pick up an absolutely boggo stick machine & still be able to weld pretty much anything that arises.
Now & then - just to stay able - I grab the stick machine (admittedly unrecognisable compared to the machines we used have) & use it to do stuff, just for the hell of it. One bit of "progress" I can't live without tho, is an auto-darkening mask - today I was mucking about welding some 1mm sheet I should have migged, using 2.5mm rods just "because" - a shiny new flip-front non-auto mask was in a box on a shelf, so I grabbed that too. How crap was it using the flip-front mask? All the crap. It got chucked aside pretty fast. How crap was it welding 1mm steel using stick? Not crap at all - nice & easy - just not with the flip-mask... Autodarkening is one bit of progress I highly approve of.
I've noticed a lot of people not preheating cast like that, and I don't understand why they wouldn't. Awesome job! I greatly enjoyed it as usual! Stay safe, and God bless
I've used both TIG and E7018 for repairs to truck axles. Both have worked well. And to the people, who are asking about not drilling holes at the ends of the cracks. This wasn't a stress crack. So no need to put more holes to fill.
All cracks are stress cracks.
@@ShainAndrews Yep, some kind of stress caused the crack, I agree with you.😀
@@johnjelinek-g7b You speak of cast as a material, when it is a process. One has to know the metallurgy to some extent. Steel, vs iron, vs aluminum, vs bronze, brass, etc. All can be cast and each has a preferred repair process.
@@ShainAndrews Not getting your problem ... I know about cast steel, and various casting procedures . A differential pretty much the same metallurgy as a cyl. block being it has nickel in it to one extent or another . None of that has anything to do with my post . True, cast steel has less chance for your weld to chase the crack . But cast iron has all kinds of possibilities for the crack to wander and cheap grey iron (not a dif.) is next to impossible to work with . Hence the reason no one will take a job of repairing that material by welding . Just JB and cross fingers . lol
As for the casting "process"... This ain't my first rodeo I'm 66 and been around mechanical means for my whole life .
The reason I like Isaac and the man from over the big pond Kurtis . I just had a difference in procedure than Isaac this time, but it looks like it all worked out fine . I'm sure Isaac didn't mind a little constructive criticism . Don't assume you're the sharpest tool in the shed . I don't, there's always some third grader that has me beat . lol
Anyway you look at it, Issac made it look easy.
A pleasure to watch Isaac
As always.
Very nice work as always !! I am completely confident this will hold you are very thorough in your .....you did everything you could possible do and in my opinon you did it very nice work !!
Nice to see a new video hope all is well on your end. Most people think they can weld,first thing they do is grab the welder and go.they don’t prep before hand which is a huge mistake. Watched a young buck grab the welder and go to town his welds looked great but failed do to contamination in the welds. Old guy welding the same style of part welds not so great but still good passed do to prep.
Had a similar axle issue one time but caught it early on a 1970s Autocar flat bed with a 38k lbs boring mill on the back coming south in hwy87 middle of the night from Odessa about halfway to San Angelo outside of sterling city. Middle of nowhere. The housing on the rearmost Rockwell sqhd axle was carrying most of the weight unfortunately and it bent the housing thus pinion alignment began to fail. Had a buddy from near Lamesa come with his SA200 and torch and we cut out a ancillary 8” c channel crossmember from the bed and welded in a giant gusset with it across the top of axle. Used a 10 ton portapower and a 20ton sears jack and some chains to roughly straighten the axle before welding gusset in. Made it back to east of Austin.
wow!!
Great to see a new video. Always interesting to see cast iron repairs. I would have terminated the holes by drilling them at their ends but followed what you did other than that. Top stuff.
D44 housing is cast steel.
LOL 😂 so sometimes I’m 12. That inner bead looks familiar. Hahaha
Thanks Issac for real tho on the great tips man. I do some of the same work here in Reno that you do in Texas. And is because of you I have become a better equipment welder.
Say Hi to Juan Ibarra for me if you see him in town.
A trick I learned yrs ago if I dont have any ni99 rods is to heat it to 450 or so, weld it up with .035 plain wire and then peen the crap out of it afterward then let slow cool overnight. Thats how I do my axle knuckles when I want to armor them, havent had a set fall apart yet.
Thanks Issac. I've never seen a repair of this type. Good idea on the diesel for leak.finds.
I saw farmer weld axle on pick up same what you did due overload with seed bag from grain supply.thank educate people about repair.
very nice repair, thanks for the lesson
Sheetmetal thickness gauge: basically a C or U - shaped frame with an pointed anvil and a 1” travel indicator. Handy for measuring thickness on deep features.
You can also use a pair of vise grip C clamp pliers. Adjust the rear screw until it touches the wall thickness, remove from around the housing, close them up and measure the gap when the pliers are closed.
Great Repair !! 🤗
How the Lincoln locker was born !
Wow amazing repair Issac!
The Picasso of metal working😊
I keep watching for your videos, glad to see you posting again .
I am happy to see you back. Your video's are very educational
Nice job! Very good preparation. Nice results! BTW.. This axle looks like the Dana axle from my old volvo 740 diesel. 😊
I'm having flashbacks to last month, where I did this on a D44 axle for a WJ Jeep. "Fun" job. You had less trouble than I did!
Really, really interesting, thank you 👍
I love using bronze, in this application I would drilled small holes whether it was a stress cracks or not and then preheat, bronze, post heat. I love that grinding afterwards is so clean and efficient. It is the shadow and using the shadow is what makes my day. Heh, heh.😂
Ditto
Great job, your work is always exemplary.
Great job Isaac .Plenty of welding inspectors commenting on this one 😂
Long time off. Good for you. Funny i only know stick welding. Never have tried anything else. Im just an around the farm welder.
nice vid, love that little advice at the end!
Another great repair Isaac!
Good information I have been wondering about welding on and you have good ideas thank you
Awesome I learned something new again. Now I need an excuse to buy a heater😄
Would have gone with braising since it’s not under pressure but I fully understand staying in practice. Had a new viewer ask me to end a double loop stitch in leather crafting only to discover that I had to relearn that stitch since it has now been over a year since I did it. Just like metal we do get rusty don’t we? Nice job
10 bolt went out in our Truck , I simply found another for $275 and I removed the U-bolts , shocks and Brake pads and out came the old , in went a 10 bolt back in its place , that was in 2008 and Truck is still on the road .
That was interesting. I thought you would have drilled the end of the cracks and for the inside welds cut your rods in half to improve the angle. But then your are more skilled than me young man! 😂 Great to see a new video.
If anyone is steadier than Isaac, I'd like to see that cat! LOL
👍👍👍
Thank you for the great content.
Fantastic repair 👌
Great to see you again Isaac! Me, I would have assumed that the housing was cast iron and after grinding out the cracks and pre-heating, I would have welded it with stick using Ni 99. I have however, welded cast iron with 7018 in a pinch when a customer sprang it on me without any prior notice. If it ever failed, he never told me. I see in some of the comments that this housing is actually cast steel. Did you already know that or was there a test that you did to differentiate it as cast steel and not gray cast iron?
I tend to believe that whenever I see a cast piece welded to regular steel that its a good weldable cast. The axle tubes are plug welded into the center cast housing so it was a go for me. this applies to most any cast to steel weldments. They're usually weldable with 7018's
Nice work❤
I’ve been missing you!
Hey Isaac, I've been chasing leaks on my welded Ford differential four times. The back cover is welded on and part of the housing. When I started it was an annoying occasional drip. Now it's worse. The first time I could see the skip in the original weld. As there is no drain plug I pulled the axles and carrier assembly. Cleaned it up and stuck some mig wire to plug the gap. Fail!:( Now I used the shop vac on the blow side and held it over the vent and bubble checked. More holes! Cleaned and welded again. Failed! Getting worse. I've finally decided to drill and tap a drain hole to make the disassembly easier. Maybe fifth is the charm? At this point it can't get worse. ?? If this doesn't work I'll pull the whole thing out so I can see what the hell I'm doing😢
The crack may be further past the weld. They are very difficult to chase if you dont have some sort of dye penetrant to help. Its hard to say without seeing it.
Could this repair have also been done with brazing?
Great video! I am glad that I subscribe.
Most likely yes.
very nice work
I would love to see an in depth look at your air ride suspension design you did on your truck ! That’d be awesome !
Quite a satisfactory repair with the correct preparation cleaning and the correct welding rods. Personally I would drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks ,preheat before welding commences, and let cool down slowly wrapped in a welding blanket.
I've always used NI rod 55, (stick) for cast iron weld repairs with good success.
Yeah, a virus
Got my IC Weld fix about time!
As always great video.
That was cool, had no idea the differential can be welded.
Another great video Sir
Awsum bud, gud teaching my fren..I enjoy ur vidz..
That dye check tells the tale.....I guess that housing is considered cast steel.
Thank you for the video. Thank you Sir
Great Video Thanks!!👍👍
We used to call it" that bull gear jumped the heifer gear".
Great job 👏
Ceramic straps works good for this situation. Back gouge when your done.
Earlier today i noticed that it had been 3 weeks since you last video and thought the next one will be soon.
80 👍's up IC WELD thank you for sharing
On this one, my only question is why? These housings are available. Why not replace the whole housing? Don't get me wrong, I really enjoy watching and learning.
That was my thought, too. Dana 44 housings are widely available. I also enjoyed the video, too 😅
It’s just $$$ that’s all it’s about.
👍👍👌👌 Thanks for the video.
Well done 👍
Awesome
Nice job👍
Very nice!
I can smell that gear oil stinking from here… And don’t worry… That pinion gear will clearance itself…lol
Great job! I somehow expected you would wedge in a piece of 2 or 3 mm aluminum backing plate and weld it al from the outside. Would that be a correct procedure iyo? Keep up this great work!
Should have Tig welded the entire thing out , would have No problem's. Nickel Alloy Rod & it would be solid.
Nice welding hat you sent to curtis of cee!!
Good job Issac
Always good to see these awkward automotive jobs
Surprised the casting didn't crack as it cooled. Must have been cast steel rather than cast iron.
Good and educative video, thank you again. But is there a crack above the pinion bearing? I can see a pretty straight dark line on the side the load most likely was when the metal parts fought.
I noticed that crack line at 12 o'clock of the pinion bearing housing . Outside chance it maybe a line in the casting.
@@garrybrischke53 It could be. It does appear to show up after warming up and seems really clear after the welding. That would indicate that the heat makes it move but then again, it's a bit hard to see on the video.
@@garrybrischke53 My guess would be a casting line.😀
I’ll bet that if it was a crack Issac would have fixed it.
👍
Looks like a crack above the inner pinion bearing race
Boa noite amigo esse serviço muito ótimo
It almost looked like there was a crack above the pinion bearing on the inside. I went back and watched again but could only see the line right after you finished the weld on the inside so maybe it was just a casting line?