I like the fact that you didn't mirror polish the whole head. That process can remove a lot of material that is needed for the strength of the head, plus a bit rough looks good. I used evaporust on the Axe I restored and it worked fantastic. Very nice work overall.
A flat grind is not appropriate for an axe. You should go for a convex or "Appleseed" grind on a chopping tool. Your flat grind will chip or roll. Use a slack belt or a puck.
Thanks for you comment Alan! In terms of edge geometry, I aimed for a 25 degree slightly convex bevel at the cutting edge leading into a 20 degree still convex (but slightly flatter) grind with this particular axe, after taking into account what it will mainly be chopping (oak with lots of knots). Believe it or not this is achievable on the belt sander I use.
Thanks for your comment Janne! Unfortunately, I don't know how old this axe head is. There are no distinguishing maker's marks, or anything that I could research. It was in a pretty bad way when it came into my possession though...
Handsome job! 👍🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thanks a lot!
Nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
I like the fact that you didn't mirror polish the whole head. That process can remove a lot of material that is needed for the strength of the head, plus a bit rough looks good. I used evaporust on the Axe I restored and it worked fantastic. Very nice work overall.
Thanks very much Simon. I’ve used Evaporust and found it works really well, especially with a wire brush after 24 hours.
@@HelloAdam_ Evaporust leaves a nice vintage looking patina too which you can leave on for a nice look.
Thats friggin nice!!!
Thanks a lot Adam, glad you liked how the axe turned out 👍🏻
The edges and handle look incredible. Too bad you didn't feel the need to work as hard on the rest of the axe.
Thanks for commenting Jay! I don’t like making the axes look brand new. I always like to leave a bit of their story and history intact.
A flat grind is not appropriate for an axe. You should go for a convex or "Appleseed" grind on a chopping tool. Your flat grind will chip or roll. Use a slack belt or a puck.
Thanks for you comment Alan! In terms of edge geometry, I aimed for a 25 degree slightly convex bevel at the cutting edge leading into a 20 degree still convex (but slightly flatter) grind with this particular axe, after taking into account what it will mainly be chopping (oak with lots of knots). Believe it or not this is achievable on the belt sander I use.
How old tihs Axe is
Thanks for your comment Janne! Unfortunately, I don't know how old this axe head is. There are no distinguishing maker's marks, or anything that I could research. It was in a pretty bad way when it came into my possession though...