Lowered have mercy!!! What a fascinating UA-cam!! I enjoyed every moment... hardly understood a single word!! Thank you for sharing....and for ALL your work to make this beautiful fabric!!
Hello from Sweden. Smålandsväv litterary translates to Little/small-land/countries weave. Very nice weaving, always a pleasure seeing my countries tradition getting some love. I myself weave on a frameloom and do tapestries, but I get a lot of inspiration from videos like this.
Anton, thank you so much for the translation. I hope my pronunciation wasn't too horrible. My dream vacation would be going to Sweden and learning all about weaving traditional textiles - one day soon, I hope. Now that would be inspiration!
@@DuellingRabbits You are very welcome to Sweden then. Channels like yours keep up the inspiration, sometimes I feel a bit lonely being a 16 year old boy who weaves, but weaving is fun.
OK, I'm beamed on and ready to go. I'm rewatching this to prep to thread and of course, questions. In designing, I was using the norwegian book you show for inspiration (Vevtradisjon) and fuddling my way through the norwegian, it looks like each unit has 4 ends, so that's how I calculated my number of warp threads. Lillemor Johansson says the same thing (translated into English, phew). To clarify, you seem to have each unit as only two threads, is that right? If so, this means this is just a design decision? Vevtradisjon seems to also have you thread 2 ends each through a ground heddle (which is attractive as it would cut ground unit threading in half) to get 4 ground ends in twoo ground heddles. Do you think that's right (again, an attempt at me reading norwegian here....)? Or at least, do you think that's doable? I like to be lazy where I can ;-)
Thank you very much! You are right, the structure is identical to Opphämta. It has a different 'look' to it, though, because the pattern tends to vary across the warp. It's one of my favorite things to weave.
I finally have my Glimakra countermarch loom set up and the first warp is on and weaving. I am just doing some simple 2x2 twill tea towels. As I am weaving, I'm making a list of fine tuning tweaks. I don't think the guy I bought this from really understood what he had. Among other things, he only had 5 out of the 10 short lams. As soon as I buy the replacement lams I want to try my hand at Smalandsvav. I have a question about weaving with a temple. When using a temple do you use the same angle with the weft pic or do you reduce it? I've been placing my weft at about a 30-degree angle before beating to try to reduce draw in.
So, I personally don't think the angle is as important as the technique. 1) I throw my pick, snugging up the weft against the selvedge; 2) make sure there is a bit of slack in the weft as it comes off the shuttle on the other side; and 3) beat on an open shed - the pick takes up as much thread as it needs. For a close-up of the method check out ua-cam.com/video/9rtL0oQaOro/v-deo.html. You'll see the angle of attack can be quite shallow indeed.
Hi I have just rewatched this episode and I was wondering if you had tried to transpose this pattern over to drawloom? I know it can be done but haven’t quite got it figured out yet. So if you have any tips it would be most appreciated.
Structurally, this Smålandsväv example is identical to Opphämta on the drawloom with 2-end units. Have you seen my vid on Opphämta or read about it at all? If I wanted to weave this exact piece on my drawloom, I would probably thread my 2-end leashes onto the pattern shafts in a suitable profile - but of course if I were to arrange them in points or a straight threading I could alter my designs on the fly. Hope that answers your question!
@@DuellingRabbits Thanks for your reply. I had forgotten about the Opphämta video. Thanks for reminding me. I will have a look and hopefully I can figure it out.
@@DuellingRabbits Thanks--I will see if I can figure it out. I just got my drawloom (:-)) but the extension is still in production so I figured I should try some smalandsvav while I wait, obviously! I assume we just put on two pattern shafts (as if we only had two drawloom units vs. the normal 10, 20 +) and then rather than thread the ground shafts 1234 every time, we only thread those pattern shafts that are indicated in the warp threading?
@@saraclevering1419 You've got the idea! On this setup, the ground and pattern shafts are reversed: ground is at the back (threaded on two shafts for plain weave or sometimes 4 for rosepath, which can also be woven as plain weave - variety!) and pattern at the front: 4, 6 or more shafts as required by your design. Easy peasy. If you want to e-mail your drawdown at some point I'd be happy to do a sanity check - but I'm sure you'll be just fine. Have fun!
I believe a counterbalance is traditionally used because that was what weavers had. But I think a reason for using it instead of a countermarch now is space: since we've got two harnesses and no extension, a countermarch would take up a lot of room, with the jacks spreading the pattern shafts our further than they need to be, back towards the ground shafts. I could be wrong about that but I'm pretty sure I read it somewhere and it does make sense ...
The Julia has the correct countershed action and should work fine, although you will want to use the smaller-size long-eye heddles. It might also benefit from a small extension of some kind, just to lengthen the loom a little. If you are curious, I recommend Joanne Hall's book, 'Weaving with Long-Eyed Heddles' which includes Smålandsväv and other double-harness structures for countershed Swedish-style looms: I believe it includes tips for adapting these methods for the Julia.
@@DuellingRabbits Thanks for your prompt reply Amy. I will order 10 1/2” long eyed heddles as per Joanne Hall’s book. Settling up pattern on 1-4 harnesses and plain ground warp on 7 and 8…right!!
There might be a way but I'm afraid I don't know what it is. In its classic setup, this structure relies on the long-eye heddles and counter-shed action to provide pattern and ground. You could create identical cloth using pick-up, though - split-shed weaving might also be an option on a jack loom if you wanted to thread the pattern onto the shafts.
I am in the process of making a few drafts available for folks who want to dip their toes in. Send me a note (email address is on the 'About' page) and I'll add you to the list.
Lowered have mercy!!!
What a fascinating UA-cam!!
I enjoyed every moment...
hardly understood a single word!! Thank you for sharing....and for ALL your work to make this beautiful fabric!!
Oh, you have made my day!! Thank you so much ❤️
Wow. Very well presented. Easy to understand. Thank you transmitting your knowledge.
I'm completely riveted to watching you weave. I hope you had a lot of fun with this project!
Thank you! And yup - I ❤️ this kind of weaving very much.
Bravo et merci! Votre démonstration est claire et vous rendez possible les motifs les plus complexes! C’est magnifique!
Thank you very much! I am so happy to hear the video was helpful. I hope you will try this wonderful structure - it is one of my favorites.
Hello from Sweden. Smålandsväv litterary translates to Little/small-land/countries weave. Very nice weaving, always a pleasure seeing my countries tradition getting some love. I myself weave on a frameloom and do tapestries, but I get a lot of inspiration from videos like this.
Anton, thank you so much for the translation. I hope my pronunciation wasn't too horrible. My dream vacation would be going to Sweden and learning all about weaving traditional textiles - one day soon, I hope. Now that would be inspiration!
@@DuellingRabbits You are very welcome to Sweden then. Channels like yours keep up the inspiration, sometimes I feel a bit lonely being a 16 year old boy who weaves, but weaving is fun.
@@antonwallman7987 Weaving is very fun. And we are lucky that there is a global community of weavers for support and encouragement!
@@antonwallman7987 don’t worry you’re going to excel in your craft 🧶
Another platinum hit!
Best drawloom videos ever!
I love your videos. You make me wish i had your equipment and patience
Thank you Liz! It's true, these sorts of structures require patience and attention to detail. So worth it, though.
I wish I could like this more than once! I enjoy your content so much; thanks so much for all the effort you put into your wonderful productions!
Thank you so much! It is my mission to make double-harness weaving a viral phenomenon, one weaver at a time ;-)
Another informative fantastic video Amy.
Gorgeous weaving!
OK, I'm beamed on and ready to go. I'm rewatching this to prep to thread and of course, questions. In designing, I was using the norwegian book you show for inspiration (Vevtradisjon) and fuddling my way through the norwegian, it looks like each unit has 4 ends, so that's how I calculated my number of warp threads. Lillemor Johansson says the same thing (translated into English, phew). To clarify, you seem to have each unit as only two threads, is that right? If so, this means this is just a design decision? Vevtradisjon seems to also have you thread 2 ends each through a ground heddle (which is attractive as it would cut ground unit threading in half) to get 4 ground ends in twoo ground heddles. Do you think that's right (again, an attempt at me reading norwegian here....)? Or at least, do you think that's doable? I like to be lazy where I can ;-)
It’s fascinating listening to you ❤
😊
This is absolutely brilliant!!!
It's cool, right? Those weavers of old really knew a trick or two.
Awesome Amy as usual
is this Technic equivalent to ophamta / taquet ?
Thank you very much! You are right, the structure is identical to Opphämta. It has a different 'look' to it, though, because the pattern tends to vary across the warp. It's one of my favorite things to weave.
I finally have my Glimakra countermarch loom set up and the first warp is on and weaving. I am just doing some simple 2x2 twill tea towels. As I am weaving, I'm making a list of fine tuning tweaks. I don't think the guy I bought this from really understood what he had. Among other things, he only had 5 out of the 10 short lams. As soon as I buy the replacement lams I want to try my hand at Smalandsvav. I have a question about weaving with a temple. When using a temple do you use the same angle with the weft pic or do you reduce it? I've been placing my weft at about a 30-degree angle before beating to try to reduce draw in.
So, I personally don't think the angle is as important as the technique. 1) I throw my pick, snugging up the weft against the selvedge; 2) make sure there is a bit of slack in the weft as it comes off the shuttle on the other side; and 3) beat on an open shed - the pick takes up as much thread as it needs. For a close-up of the method check out ua-cam.com/video/9rtL0oQaOro/v-deo.html. You'll see the angle of attack can be quite shallow indeed.
Hi I have just rewatched this episode and I was wondering if you had tried to transpose this pattern over to drawloom? I know it can be done but haven’t quite got it figured out yet. So if you have any tips it would be most appreciated.
Structurally, this Smålandsväv example is identical to Opphämta on the drawloom with 2-end units. Have you seen my vid on Opphämta or read about it at all? If I wanted to weave this exact piece on my drawloom, I would probably thread my 2-end leashes onto the pattern shafts in a suitable profile - but of course if I were to arrange them in points or a straight threading I could alter my designs on the fly. Hope that answers your question!
@@DuellingRabbits Thanks for your reply. I had forgotten about the Opphämta video. Thanks for reminding me. I will have a look and hopefully I can figure it out.
@@DuellingRabbits Thanks--I will see if I can figure it out. I just got my drawloom (:-)) but the extension is still in production so I figured I should try some smalandsvav while I wait, obviously! I assume we just put on two pattern shafts (as if we only had two drawloom units vs. the normal 10, 20 +) and then rather than thread the ground shafts 1234 every time, we only thread those pattern shafts that are indicated in the warp threading?
@@saraclevering1419 You've got the idea! On this setup, the ground and pattern shafts are reversed: ground is at the back (threaded on two shafts for plain weave or sometimes 4 for rosepath, which can also be woven as plain weave - variety!) and pattern at the front: 4, 6 or more shafts as required by your design. Easy peasy. If you want to e-mail your drawdown at some point I'd be happy to do a sanity check - but I'm sure you'll be just fine. Have fun!
Points for pronouncing the Swedish words so well!!!
Ha! Thank you. Unfortunately, I only recently discovered I have been pronouncing 'Ulla Cyrus' wrong this whole time :-(
Does it have to be done with counterbalance? Couldn't you use contremarch?
I believe a counterbalance is traditionally used because that was what weavers had. But I think a reason for using it instead of a countermarch now is space: since we've got two harnesses and no extension, a countermarch would take up a lot of room, with the jacks spreading the pattern shafts our further than they need to be, back towards the ground shafts. I could be wrong about that but I'm pretty sure I read it somewhere and it does make sense ...
Can I try this weave structure on my 8-harness Jullia?
The Julia has the correct countershed action and should work fine, although you will want to use the smaller-size long-eye heddles. It might also benefit from a small extension of some kind, just to lengthen the loom a little. If you are curious, I recommend Joanne Hall's book, 'Weaving with Long-Eyed Heddles' which includes Smålandsväv and other double-harness structures for countershed Swedish-style looms: I believe it includes tips for adapting these methods for the Julia.
@@DuellingRabbits Thanks for your prompt reply Amy. I will order 10 1/2” long eyed heddles as per Joanne Hall’s book. Settling up pattern on 1-4 harnesses and plain ground warp on 7 and 8…right!!
Can this be woven on a Jack Loom?
There might be a way but I'm afraid I don't know what it is. In its classic setup, this structure relies on the long-eye heddles and counter-shed action to provide pattern and ground. You could create identical cloth using pick-up, though - split-shed weaving might also be an option on a jack loom if you wanted to thread the pattern onto the shafts.
Would you please give us your draft? I want to try this!!
I am in the process of making a few drafts available for folks who want to dip their toes in. Send me a note (email address is on the 'About' page) and I'll add you to the list.
No sé que decir,no tengo un telar asi
What a set up! Thank you for sharing!!
Well, thanks for watching!
much ado about nothing - ancient primitive