Hey guys, if you take painters tape and put it in a V shape across the edge of the paint can with it over hanging off the edge of the can. You can pour it without spilling or having the paint run down the side.
I have been watching you for years now and enjoy your content. I do have to say you pay attention to detail and I admire that quality. Be aware though, there is a point where perfectionism will carry you beyond your sailing years. I am a retired US Navy Nuclear Submarine Veteran and retired Port Engineer. You guys tickle me on your enthusiasm, good luck but do keep an eye out for the end of the project. Respectfully, Dennis, KV4WM, Fellow IEEE.
I have to admit, I went through your refit on Elements, your sailing adventures with Elements and all the way up to today. I don't think I can watch anymore sanding and fairing and priming, etc. However I'm two years in on this build and I really like you guys and this is how you survive, viewers. So I'll stay subscribed and check for adventures that take you away from the build, if they happen.
Good job guys. Just an FYI you’re being exposed to the dust from the high-build wearing your full face respirator like that. It’s a face seal dependant respirator - meaning: it it makes a seal against your face. Having stubble and wearing it on top of your balaclava means that particulate is making it into your lungs.
100% right! Don't get my occupational health nurse wife started on this subject! Respirator "fit testing" is one of her specialties - turn up not clean shaven at your peril 😂. Don't let perfect get in the way of good - this boat is almost certainly finished with more care than a factory assembled one already. Save the perfection for the rig and systems.
When I built my experimental airplane kit at home it took me 4 1/2 years. Everyone laughed with the joke, “90% done, 90% to go” they were right. The finishing of a project is hard due to not seeing big steps in progress. Keep at it, it’ll be worth it in the end……but I’ll never do it again. Your boat will be beautiful when done and worth the blood, sweat and tears.
Hi guys, Matt one suggestion for you, slip down to your auto parts store or hardware store and pick up a liter or quart of real cheap Chassis Black, thin it right out and dust a really light coat on your primer, when you sand it will show up all of your low spots really easily, this is called a Guide coat and should be applied before sanding any surface, it will show deep scratches and low spots, It will make sanding that little bit easier if that's possible, I'm an old spray painter from way back and used to sand back over guide coat with 400 wet, Guide Coat you can look it up, you can also bye the stuff in powder form but it's pain in the ^%* to use, Your doing a great job so all the very best to you both, Al
When using high-build, Be sure to pull the screen out of the cap of the 3M Accuspray cup. The high-build is too thick to pass through the screen efficiently.
Making great progress! Looks good. Looks like that million dollar look will happen at this point. Bless you both for the patience for the fairing shenanigans! Stay safe!
Your show is awesome. Showing everyone the steps of building a cat from scratch, the work, planning and skills that go into it; its very educational. I did see that you were using the TB dewaxing solution and just wanted to mention that i had an issue with my batch recently. I am in California and cant get denatured alcohol to prep with, so I used the same dewaxing solution you do. This was not an issue until i sprayed top coat. I wiped everything down let it dry and sprayed, only to get a number of fish eyes in my top coat. This was caused by the dewaxer still off gassing threw the paint. I did a few test and every time i used the TB dewaxer I had fish eyes in the paint, even when i let it dry for an hour. This was not the case when I used other solvents that i had in my cabinet. So if you are going to paint over the high build primer, do some test areas before wasting time and money. I did not try it with gelcoat. Just thought I’d pass it on.
You shouldn't be disappointed with Awl Grip, have been using it for over 20 plus years! Perhaps you should look into full face mask and filters with peel aways for the lens part! They are comfortable and offer more convenience,Just an Opinion. Hope you have good air distribution. Love your Project! Watched you re build your monohull and you two are very proficient and work together Awesome! Also been there and done that with Bride of 42 years, and Many boats! She went to Heaven Awesome Memories. Enjoy Yours Always
I tried my PARP filter and the fine mist from the overspray clogged the $300 filter after a few minutes - it's the only one that I had the disposable peel away lens covers for. But you're right, I should get them for the normal full face!
They do work together well. I imagine that there are a few not so nice scenes that are left on the cutting room floor. I love my wife a ton, but if I had to build a boat with her, I think that would be end of our marriage.
I use that total boat epoxy fairing compound quite often. I love that stuff. I have never used any total boat primers, but I can say that i have used Awlgrip a few times. The adhesion capabilities of the Awlgrip is awesome. I see less paint chips long term when I use that stuff. Stick with that straight line sander where you can. It's pretty hard to make a flat surface with a DA IMO. I was down in your hood about two months ago. I really should have scheduled a couple of works days with you. A fairing project this big has to be exhausting. Pick your battles. Focus on the areas that will be the most visible or have the most light reflection. Perfection will take forever.......
Now that you’re using a spray gun have you thought about using spray putty?. This would speed up your process greatly. Another tip if you’re running out of air is to get a second compressor and and a stand alone air tank and run two compressors into a main tank, never run out of air again. Looking good!.
We can sense the excitement as your yacht is coming alive. So many surfaces to sand which is expected but compared to automotive finishing…well I seems there is really no comparison. It’s looking good so keep the faith and patience!
Soup ladles work an absolute _treat_ for transferring paints. You can set them up to drain with a magnet and I always wrap the handle in cling film or masking tape so sticky gloves aren't a disaster .. . ....
For me, at this point, sanding would be a torture level 11 out of 10. You guys are some tough cookies. I just hope at the end of all this that you are MORE than happy with the finished boat.
That is spray guns mate, never the same experience twice in my experience. Great to see you using the DA Sander, so much more efficient and a far better result than a straight orbital.Great progress,Ross
Have you ever considered hiring a boatbuilder contractor and a labourer and just taking on normal jobs to pay for that compared to the way you're doing this project ,not saying there's anything wrong with you guys doing it the workmanship and the learning curve is fantastic, great channel always enjoyed them
We took on this build because we were looking for a project to do with our hands. Yes, skilled boat builders would get through it quicker, but we're teaching ourselves life skills. 😍 Plus, because my (Jessica) career is putting out content on our YT channel, we still earn a salary throughout the process.
It's look great for the camera, only when you sand down and expose the imperfections is anything visible. I'm in awe at the patience required to go through this interior fairing, it will mean the boat will look great many years later, by which time interior lining can be getting tired.
So i have this wild idea for the bed areas, basically turning them into multi-functional spaces. If you notch out the middle and use the cut out as a table you could make it similar to the dining table area of a lot of RV's. Then if you add a removable water tight door on the front you could make a walkin tub, the sides under the benches could have long slide out drawers to make complete use of the space under the benches/bedsides. The front edge could be raised on the benches as well by adding removable pieces, then the water in the tub could be above the benches creating a sitting area. Now for the fun part, just run a hose from the water heater to fill with hot water and add a battery operated jet to make a hot tub! Drain using same hose with filter but to the bilge or elsewhere... When not used as tub, or work table, return the table top between benches and store stuff underneath as desired...
Alright alright alright ~~~ I so appreciate all that you guys are doing. Its' happening. Your editing, (incredible) ~ the Total Boat prep. The technical information. (I've been to the shop there in Rhode Island). I work with this stuff all the time. So I really appreciate your work. But here we are. Most excellent content. Jessica. Not gonna lie. Your legs. Whew. But there are your legs. Just too too much. My God Girl! What does Matt say about such images? You drop some click bait sometimes that is well.... Just overwhelming. Not fair. I'll tell ya. One hour of You Tube for me with coffee in the morning. That's it! Not gonna lie. All in on the build. Alright alright alright. Whew! Best wishes.
the d.a. sander does come with a hose and dust collection bag that fits over the back of sander where the air/dust comes out...saves hours of cleaning up
Been building fairing painting boats for a life time using international mainly and other products you should mix with a drill and paint stirer and add the minimal amount of thinners if any better mix large amounts in a big bucket and then make a strainer out of another bucket with the base cut out with fly screen mesh taped to bottom for straining paint u would be surprised how many chunks you will strain out and use a gun with 3.5 mm nossel top load bag the expensive guns won’t spray any better and low pressure the iawata az3 gun was the got to gun for all high builds and interprotect primers could cover a 40ft catamaran both sides with 3 primer coats in about 4 hrs on my own and mixing and clean up I think the highbuild is unesesary internally. On small panels as more can be achieved with premix fairing fillers and then spot fill after primer it’s easier to trim some panels than to fair and never spray high build in radius’s as it can build up to quick and crack later on 👍a good extraction system is a must through the hatches and don’t think dust will be pulled in even when doing top coat it won’t and is to dangerous to spray anything without extraction running and it is good to blow the dust out of the boat Are you using guide coat to sand? You wouldn’t want to sand more than u have to and miss pinholes Blue wipe on liquid best and doesn’t clog paper
Looks great. Such a huge undertaking. But the end result will be worth it. The pride of doing it yourself is a great feeling. One the high fill primer is on should you not be using some sort of guide coat to help gage your sanding? Without a guide coat you are really just guessing at how flat the panels are.
The primer acts as a guide coat... You can easily see where there are low spots. But once we get to the last layer of primer, then we will use a guide coat.
Why don’t you guys get some box fans and build sealed square boxes around the fan that you can install 5 high merv filters in and take the fan and have it blow into the box and thru the filters to catch the dust. Then you can set these boxes in areas you are working in and turn the fan on and capture the dust inside the box in the filters. You would probably save a lot of time sanding. Several views of these on UA-cam for carpentry shops. Or you could put the areas your working in under negative pressure poly sheeting, a filter for supply air and an exit with a fan to draw dust out. Similar to an asbestos containment that’s use to minimize dust in the containment area. Keep up the good work.
How much weight are y'all adding to this boat in fairing? If I understand correctly, this hull was produces with a single sided mold, vacuum resin transfer process. That gives you one fair surface right out of the mold, but then you have to do all this fairing work to fix the other surface, exacerbated by the fiberglassing you've been doing to assemble the thing. Does anyone mold both inner and outer surfaces, with an airspace between them, so they can do all this fairing work just once on the molds?
A lot of brands have molded interiors, but it's heavy and typically done in cheaper boats. The fairing compound is 5.4lbs a gallon. We have used about thirty gallons. A good 50 percent is sanded off, but we probably sand more since we're not that skilled at application. All in all, we've added maybe 75lbs.
moving along I thought priming it made it feel smaller. LOL Actually think that because the windows were masked and papered off. So thinking ahead- will you have some form of backup parts storage all organized- were you have the make and part number and contact info labeled for the part. like a extra heating element for the water heaters, extra washers for the faucets, water filters, replacement hinge for cabinet door, extra set of keys, belts, packets of two part epoxy putty , A repair boat med kit and vendor lists for all the parts and contacts.
In a previous video you mentioned that you have gone through a couple of sanders. Was there any plan to control the dust/sanding by cyclonic separator (hooked up to sanders) and vacuum with an hepa air filter (for general air filtering) for inside the boat and inside the tent? (2 different systems) Did you consider industrial grade sanders (festool, mirka, 3M (cubitron) with associated sanding discs) that can be attached to an filtration system? I know they are more expensive, but with a cyclonic separator and hepa air filtration system, it would keep the air cleaner, saving you time in clean up and the spreading of dust around the boat. Sorry if I am using mostly woodworking brand names. For me, I been watching alot of woodworking videos and most channels recommend a cyclonic separator before vacuum (the end filter can go as low as 1 micron or better), this takes care of the tools producing sawdust. An additional shop filter (hepa) makes sure the shops air is filtered and picks up microscopic dust in the air. Break dust collection down into: 1. for the tool (with cyclonic separator and vacuum), 2. for the space you work in (hepa air filter), and 3. option if you have a vacuum with more than 1 hose connection, use second hose for space. As for type of sanding discs, some have better dust collection due to design of the disc allowing particles through disc to exhaust port. I thought I would mention this, as it seems like for the last 2 months that you guys have been busy sanding and sanding and sanding....and the mess. What about inside corners - making sanding blocks?Make a template out of cardboard and transfer to 4/5 inch piece of wood. it will standardize the rounded inside corners. What was the highest number (sand paper) for fibrglass, gel coat, priming paint epoxy, and final paint. 80, 120, 180, 220, 320, 400? Is there a difference between walls and ceilings? Floor paint? non skid or something else?
We have a dust extractor, but found with the amount of hand block sanding we do - and the time spent cleaning that dust - that we mind as well just make a big mess and clean at the end of the day. I made fiberglass molds of corners I like and use those as blocks to sand. The benefit of fiberglass over wood is that I could taper the layers on the edges of the block and the reduction in stiffness helps to apply more of a fair pressure without digging in. That was the theory, but in reality it doesn't seem to change much over just a simple block.
I bought 3 different spray guns when I was spraying my last boat and I ended up finding out that the cheapest old school spray gun from home depot with the pot on the bottom of the gun sprayed 200 times better then any of the other guns I used. It was even way better then a 500 dollar gun the paint supplier told me to use. The home depot cheap gun was like 29 bucks. Might be worth trying
How often do you have to change out the filters on your respirators? I would imagine when fairing those filters would require more frequent filter changes. How about when using them in areas where the fumes are harmful? Can you clean these air filters or are they use once and done? Fascinating. Oh my, the dust being created again and the fact you will have to clean and vacuum all of the surfaces again. You guys have so much patience. Were you guys able to determine what was wrong with your paint gun? Thanks for sharing!!
this so brings back memories-- death by a million details--this is where you wish your boat was 15 feet long.... You do realise that you are NOT building a boat? You are actually making dust-- and one of the by-products just happens to be a boat....
Spitting?What size spray tips are you using and what’s the thickness of the material and open time you have to apply and pressure you’re using plus tips do wear out .
Try hiring a airless Sprayer unit to try one out I have had better experience with epoxy paints with them. They have a much wider range of nozzles available.
Nice work! My question today is in reference to provisioning. I know that weight is a factor. But how attentive do y'all have to be regarding weight distribution? If you load too much port or starboard of center will it cause a list? I'm sure the size of the boat is a factor and not sure that it makes a whole lot of difference.
We'll need to be very aware of how the boat is loaded. Luckily, we've set it up to keep most of the storage weight at the mid point of the boat - as long as we keep to the plan, we'll be okay.
A spray gun is not a magical wand, in my experience ( 40 years of composites) a roller drives the primer in to the pinhole’s much better and and more efficient than a gun.
@@MJSailing Nice, boat looks great. I have to do all that when I get to Saint Thomas this year on my Tayana 37, alot of fiber glass repairs. Selling my Islander 44 first in Los Angeles before I move there. Just waiting for the machine shop to make me a new sheave for the top of the mast. The old one was for wire and my rope kept jumping off and jamming my main. Happened during the sea trial, sail got stuck half way up. Fixing that now.
All those chemicals sure take its toll on the body huh. Although you're wearing a mask... you're absorbing the chemicals through your eyes. Ask me how i know lol
Sorry, but now I'm unsubscribing and stop following you. Now it's just too much Total Boat advertising, understand you need the sponsorship but this was the limit for me. Thanks for these years, and continued good luck with the project.
I know there's only so much content you can produce about these stages of tge boat project but this one was a bit boring live tge channel and yall so take this as constructive criticism not hatefulness
Hey guys, if you take painters tape and put it in a V shape across the edge of the paint can with it over hanging off the edge of the can. You can pour it without spilling or having the paint run down the side.
I have been watching you for years now and enjoy your content. I do have to say you pay attention to detail and I admire that quality. Be aware though, there is a point where perfectionism will carry you beyond your sailing years. I am a retired US Navy Nuclear Submarine Veteran and retired Port Engineer. You guys tickle me on your enthusiasm, good luck but do keep an eye out for the end of the project. Respectfully, Dennis, KV4WM, Fellow IEEE.
I have to admit, I went through your refit on Elements, your sailing adventures with Elements and all the way up to today. I don't think I can watch anymore sanding and fairing and priming, etc. However I'm two years in on this build and I really like you guys and this is how you survive, viewers. So I'll stay subscribed and check for adventures that take you away from the build, if they happen.
Good job guys. Just an FYI you’re being exposed to the dust from the high-build wearing your full face respirator like that. It’s a face seal dependant respirator - meaning: it it makes a seal against your face. Having stubble and wearing it on top of your balaclava means that particulate is making it into your lungs.
100% right! Don't get my occupational health nurse wife started on this subject! Respirator "fit testing" is one of her specialties - turn up not clean shaven at your peril 😂. Don't let perfect get in the way of good - this boat is almost certainly finished with more care than a factory assembled one already. Save the perfection for the rig and systems.
Awesome job Matt, the insides look perfect.
My cup of coffee reads "Trust the Journey". Your journey is awesome to me. Thank you.
When I built my experimental airplane kit at home it took me 4 1/2 years. Everyone laughed with the joke, “90% done, 90% to go” they were right. The finishing of a project is hard due to not seeing big steps in progress. Keep at it, it’ll be worth it in the end……but I’ll never do it again. Your boat will be beautiful when done and worth the blood, sweat and tears.
Hi guys, Matt one suggestion for you, slip down to your auto parts store or hardware store and pick up a liter or quart of real cheap Chassis Black, thin it right out and dust a really light coat on your primer, when you sand it will show up all of your low spots really easily, this is called a Guide coat and should be applied before sanding any surface, it will show deep scratches and low spots, It will make sanding that little bit easier if that's possible, I'm an old spray painter from way back and used to sand back over guide coat with 400 wet, Guide Coat you can look it up, you can also bye the stuff in powder form but it's pain in the ^%* to use, Your doing a great job so all the very best to you both, Al
They have 2-3 different guide coat systems they use
When using high-build, Be sure to pull the screen out of the cap of the 3M Accuspray cup. The high-build is too thick to pass through the screen efficiently.
Jess does a great job with the music
Making great progress! Looks good. Looks like that million dollar look will happen at this point. Bless you both for the patience for the fairing shenanigans! Stay safe!
Well done guys! Great work!
Oh my! All that sanding. Keep your spirits up.
But there is finally light at the end of the tunnel! 😍
Tony & Susan here in Michigan. More sanding, we are praying you get to the end of sanding. Wishing you all the best>
OMG - You need to try - Drywall Sanding Screen Mesh Sheets - They work great, Last longer and blow clean with an air compressed.
Great video Guy’s, getting primer on the walls makes a big difference to the appearance of the Cat. Makes it seem bigger.
All the best from us both.
Thank you so much!! It felt like a great accomplishment to finally get primer in there!
Great attention to detail. I always enjoy when you step back and we can see just how much progress has been made. Amazing!
I applaud your patience... there's absolutely no way I could build a boat to this standard!
Luckily we know there isn't an end date for us being on the water....it will still be waiting for us when we're ready. 😊
Your show is awesome. Showing everyone the steps of building a cat from scratch, the work, planning and skills that go into it; its very educational. I did see that you were using the TB dewaxing solution and just wanted to mention that i had an issue with my batch recently. I am in California and cant get denatured alcohol to prep with, so I used the same dewaxing solution you do. This was not an issue until i sprayed top coat. I wiped everything down let it dry and sprayed, only to get a number of fish eyes in my top coat. This was caused by the dewaxer still off gassing threw the paint. I did a few test and every time i used the TB dewaxer I had fish eyes in the paint, even when i let it dry for an hour. This was not the case when I used other solvents that i had in my cabinet. So if you are going to paint over the high build primer, do some test areas before wasting time and money. I did not try it with gelcoat. Just thought I’d pass it on.
Great video
You shouldn't be disappointed with Awl Grip, have been using it for over 20 plus years! Perhaps you should look into full face mask and filters with peel aways for the lens part! They are comfortable and offer more convenience,Just an Opinion. Hope you have good air distribution. Love your Project! Watched you re build your monohull and you two are very proficient and work together Awesome! Also been there and done that with Bride of 42 years, and Many boats! She went to Heaven Awesome Memories. Enjoy Yours Always
I tried my PARP filter and the fine mist from the overspray clogged the $300 filter after a few minutes - it's the only one that I had the disposable peel away lens covers for. But you're right, I should get them for the normal full face!
They do work together well. I imagine that there are a few not so nice scenes that are left on the cutting room floor. I love my wife a ton, but if I had to build a boat with her, I think that would be end of our marriage.
It’s looking awesome can’t wait to see the finished product
I use that total boat epoxy fairing compound quite often. I love that stuff. I have never used any total boat primers, but I can say that i have used Awlgrip a few times. The adhesion capabilities of the Awlgrip is awesome. I see less paint chips long term when I use that stuff.
Stick with that straight line sander where you can. It's pretty hard to make a flat surface with a DA IMO.
I was down in your hood about two months ago. I really should have scheduled a couple of works days with you. A fairing project this big has to be exhausting.
Pick your battles. Focus on the areas that will be the most visible or have the most light reflection. Perfection will take forever.......
Now that you’re using a spray gun have you thought about using spray putty?. This would speed up your process greatly. Another tip if you’re running out of air is to get a second compressor and and a stand alone air tank and run two compressors into a main tank, never run out of air again. Looking good!.
Glorious sanding! Be happy, be safe
Great progress! Keep rolling along MJ sailing team! 👍👍
We can sense the excitement as your yacht is coming alive. So many surfaces to sand which is expected but compared to automotive finishing…well I seems there is really no comparison. It’s looking good so keep the faith and patience!
Making awesome progress!!!
Soup ladles work an absolute _treat_ for transferring paints. You can set them up to drain with a magnet and I always wrap the handle in cling film or masking tape so sticky gloves aren't a disaster .. . ....
For me, at this point, sanding would be a torture level 11 out of 10. You guys are some tough cookies. I just hope at the end of all this that you are MORE than happy with the finished boat.
Brilliant!
Great progress you guys! Love it!
Thank you so much - it feels wonderful!! 😍
That is spray guns mate, never the same experience twice in my experience. Great to see you using the DA Sander, so much more efficient and a far better result than a straight orbital.Great progress,Ross
Have you ever considered hiring a boatbuilder contractor and a labourer and just taking on normal jobs to pay for that compared to the way you're doing this project ,not saying there's anything wrong with you guys doing it the workmanship and the learning curve is fantastic, great channel always enjoyed them
We took on this build because we were looking for a project to do with our hands. Yes, skilled boat builders would get through it quicker, but we're teaching ourselves life skills. 😍 Plus, because my (Jessica) career is putting out content on our YT channel, we still earn a salary throughout the process.
@@MJSailing you're doing a terrific job
It's look great for the camera, only when you sand down and expose the imperfections is anything visible. I'm in awe at the patience required to go through this interior fairing, it will mean the boat will look great many years later, by which time interior lining can be getting tired.
Still making progress that's what's important.
Very nice video 👍👍
Thank you!
Quick tip, add a little bit of color to your next coat of primer, when you sand it shows up any low spots.
So i have this wild idea for the bed areas, basically turning them into multi-functional spaces. If you notch out the middle and use the cut out as a table you could make it similar to the dining table area of a lot of RV's. Then if you add a removable water tight door on the front you could make a walkin tub, the sides under the benches could have long slide out drawers to make complete use of the space under the benches/bedsides. The front edge could be raised on the benches as well by adding removable pieces, then the water in the tub could be above the benches creating a sitting area. Now for the fun part, just run a hose from the water heater to fill with hot water and add a battery operated jet to make a hot tub! Drain using same hose with filter but to the bilge or elsewhere... When not used as tub, or work table, return the table top between benches and store stuff underneath as desired...
Alright alright alright ~~~ I so appreciate all that you guys are doing. Its' happening. Your editing, (incredible) ~ the Total Boat prep. The technical information. (I've been to the shop there in Rhode Island). I work with this stuff all the time. So I really appreciate your work. But here we are. Most excellent content. Jessica. Not gonna lie. Your legs. Whew. But there are your legs. Just too too much. My God Girl! What does Matt say about such images? You drop some click bait sometimes that is well.... Just overwhelming. Not fair. I'll tell ya. One hour of You Tube for me with coffee in the morning. That's it! Not gonna lie. All in on the build. Alright alright alright. Whew! Best wishes.
Nice upgrade!!!
Really changes the look of things!! 😍
I just restored my 1962 Pearson ensign this winter used awl products
I can only imagine the dreams you both must be having
You're making a big statue...sculpting walls.
Hahaha, kind of feels like it sometimes.
the d.a. sander does come with a hose and dust collection bag that fits over the back of sander where the air/dust comes out...saves hours of cleaning up
That's a different model of sander. This doesn't have a self generated vacuum system.
Been building fairing painting boats for a life time using international mainly and other products you should mix with a drill and paint stirer and add the minimal amount of thinners if any better mix large amounts in a big bucket and then make a strainer out of another bucket with the base cut out with fly screen mesh taped to bottom for straining paint u would be surprised how many chunks you will strain out and use a gun with 3.5 mm nossel top load bag the expensive guns won’t spray any better and low pressure the iawata az3 gun was the got to gun for all high builds and interprotect primers could cover a 40ft catamaran both sides with 3 primer coats in about 4 hrs on my own and mixing and clean up I think the highbuild is unesesary internally. On small panels as more can be achieved with premix fairing fillers and then spot fill after primer it’s easier to trim some panels than to fair and never spray high build in radius’s as it can build up to quick and crack later on 👍a good extraction system is a must through the hatches and don’t think dust will be pulled in even when doing top coat it won’t and is to dangerous to spray anything without extraction running and it is good to blow the dust out of the boat
Are you using guide coat to sand? You wouldn’t want to sand more than u have to and miss pinholes Blue wipe on liquid best and doesn’t clog paper
Great work guys, the 'travellers glow' is well and truly gone though😢
동영상을 여러개 봐도... 정말 고생하네요. 얼굴에 고생한 티도 많이 나고... 나라면 저리 힘들게 할 수 있었을까 싶은데...
좋은 결과 있기를 바랍니다.
What incredible patience you have 👍
When do you expect to have it in the water?
We're looking to splash next summer or early fall.
Looks great. Such a huge undertaking. But the end result will be worth it. The pride of doing it yourself is a great feeling.
One the high fill primer is on should you not be using some sort of guide coat to help gage your sanding? Without a guide coat you are really just guessing at how flat the panels are.
The primer acts as a guide coat... You can easily see where there are low spots. But once we get to the last layer of primer, then we will use a guide coat.
Why don’t you guys get some box fans and build sealed square boxes around the fan that you can install 5 high merv filters in and take the fan and have it blow into the box and thru the filters to catch the dust. Then you can set these boxes in areas you are working in and turn the fan on and capture the dust inside the box in the filters. You would probably save a lot of time sanding. Several views of these on UA-cam for carpentry shops.
Or you could put the areas your working in under negative pressure poly sheeting, a filter for supply air and an exit with a fan to draw dust out. Similar to an asbestos containment that’s use to minimize dust in the containment area.
Keep up the good work.
How much weight are y'all adding to this boat in fairing?
If I understand correctly, this hull was produces with a single sided mold, vacuum resin transfer process. That gives you one fair surface right out of the mold, but then you have to do all this fairing work to fix the other surface, exacerbated by the fiberglassing you've been doing to assemble the thing.
Does anyone mold both inner and outer surfaces, with an airspace between them, so they can do all this fairing work just once on the molds?
A lot of brands have molded interiors, but it's heavy and typically done in cheaper boats. The fairing compound is 5.4lbs a gallon. We have used about thirty gallons. A good 50 percent is sanded off, but we probably sand more since we're not that skilled at application. All in all, we've added maybe 75lbs.
moving along I thought priming it made it feel smaller. LOL Actually think that because the windows were masked and papered off. So thinking ahead- will you have some form of backup parts storage all organized- were you have the make and part number and contact info labeled for the part. like a extra heating element for the water heaters, extra washers for the faucets, water filters, replacement hinge for cabinet door, extra set of keys, belts, packets of two part epoxy putty , A repair boat med kit and vendor lists for all the parts and contacts.
very little is left and you will surf the oceans
In a previous video you mentioned that you have gone through a couple of sanders. Was there any plan to control the dust/sanding by cyclonic separator (hooked up to sanders) and vacuum with an hepa air filter (for general air filtering) for inside the boat and inside the tent? (2 different systems)
Did you consider industrial grade sanders (festool, mirka, 3M (cubitron) with associated sanding discs) that can be attached to an filtration system? I know they are more expensive, but with a cyclonic separator and hepa air filtration system, it would keep the air cleaner, saving you time in clean up and the spreading of dust around the boat. Sorry if I am using mostly woodworking brand names. For me, I been watching alot of woodworking videos and most channels recommend a cyclonic separator before vacuum (the end filter can go as low as 1 micron or better), this takes care of the tools producing sawdust. An additional shop filter (hepa) makes sure the shops air is filtered and picks up microscopic dust in the air.
Break dust collection down into:
1. for the tool (with cyclonic separator and vacuum),
2. for the space you work in (hepa air filter), and
3. option if you have a vacuum with more than 1 hose connection, use second hose for space.
As for type of sanding discs, some have better dust collection due to design of the disc allowing particles through disc to exhaust port.
I thought I would mention this, as it seems like for the last 2 months that you guys have been busy sanding and sanding and sanding....and the mess.
What about inside corners - making sanding blocks?Make a template out of cardboard and transfer to 4/5 inch piece of wood. it will standardize the rounded inside corners.
What was the highest number (sand paper) for fibrglass, gel coat, priming paint epoxy, and final paint. 80, 120, 180, 220, 320, 400?
Is there a difference between walls and ceilings? Floor paint? non skid or something else?
We have a dust extractor, but found with the amount of hand block sanding we do - and the time spent cleaning that dust - that we mind as well just make a big mess and clean at the end of the day.
I made fiberglass molds of corners I like and use those as blocks to sand. The benefit of fiberglass over wood is that I could taper the layers on the edges of the block and the reduction in stiffness helps to apply more of a fair pressure without digging in. That was the theory, but in reality it doesn't seem to change much over just a simple block.
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Have you used any Flow-Coat, paintable gel coat that flows out smooth and professional. Final coating?
I bought 3 different spray guns when I was spraying my last boat and I ended up finding out that the cheapest old school spray gun from home depot with the pot on the bottom of the gun sprayed 200 times better then any of the other guns I used. It was even way better then a 500 dollar gun the paint supplier told me to use. The home depot cheap gun was like 29 bucks. Might be worth trying
The statement of the chapter is wrong, it is 287 and not 278.
Greetings and good work.
That primer went on like ceiling bubble texture . What a shame!
How often do you have to change out the filters on your respirators? I would imagine when fairing those filters would require more frequent filter changes. How about when using them in areas where the fumes are harmful? Can you clean these air filters or are they use once and done? Fascinating.
Oh my, the dust being created again and the fact you will have to clean and vacuum all of the surfaces again. You guys have so much patience.
Were you guys able to determine what was wrong with your paint gun?
Thanks for sharing!!
Every month when just sanding. With this primer stage, it's more often than that... Every week or so.
@@MJSailing Thanks for the reply!
I limit how much paint I mix at one time. It tends to start hardening when it sets mixed up for too long.
We found that with our gun, the 32 oz at a time was perfect. Once the induction time had passed, we could spray that full amount in 15-20 minutes.
this so brings back memories-- death by a million details--this is where you wish your boat was 15 feet long.... You do realise that you are NOT building a boat? You are actually making dust-- and one of the by-products just happens to be a boat....
I like that thought... A by product of the dust is a boat :)
I found that a knit hat keeps you from painting your hair.
Once you can have everything one color, that is going to make a huge difference. You will almost think that you are almost done. Almost.
Spitting?What size spray tips are you using and what’s the thickness of the material and open time you have to apply and pressure you’re using plus tips do wear out .
It was odd. The tip was 2.0mm, and was new. Not sure the issue
Try hiring a airless Sprayer unit to try one out I have had better experience with epoxy paints with them. They have a much wider range of nozzles available.
Nice work! My question today is in reference to provisioning. I know that weight is a factor. But how attentive do y'all have to be regarding weight distribution? If you load too much port or starboard of center will it cause a list? I'm sure the size of the boat is a factor and not sure that it makes a whole lot of difference.
We'll need to be very aware of how the boat is loaded. Luckily, we've set it up to keep most of the storage weight at the mid point of the boat - as long as we keep to the plan, we'll be okay.
@@MJSailing another question: Where's Georgie? I've missed quite a few videos so I probably missed that.
@@rickchollett She's spending all of her time on our liveaboard boat. She makes appearances in the videos every now and again, but not too often.
The Compressor might need to be drained of water.
Episode 287 not 278 :)
Guys need to spend the hundred bucks and get a straight line air sander ✌️
We have one. Matt's gone back and forth using that and the DA. 😉
@@MJSailing 👍
A spray gun is not a magical wand, in my experience ( 40 years of composites) a roller drives the primer in to the pinhole’s much better and and more efficient than a gun.
what is the cost to go from 90% to 100% perfect?
No idea. We're not looking for perfect, it's far from that, instead we're still after the 90%
orange peal. go back to 20% reducer
also more air pressure less paint adjustments . also get some glazing puddy for small pin holes and imperfections. looking good.
No windows in the v berths?
The side window will get cut out probably later this year, and Matt is in the process of making the mold for the flush hatch to sit in.
@@MJSailing Nice, boat looks great. I have to do all that when I get to Saint Thomas this year on my Tayana 37, alot of fiber glass repairs. Selling my Islander 44 first in Los Angeles before I move there. Just waiting for the machine shop to make me a new sheave for the top of the mast. The old one was for wire and my rope kept jumping off and jamming my main. Happened during the sea trial, sail got stuck half way up. Fixing that now.
Too big of a tip for the thin spray?
All those chemicals sure take its toll on the body huh. Although you're wearing a mask... you're absorbing the chemicals through your eyes. Ask me how i know lol
Sorry, but now I'm unsubscribing and stop following you. Now it's just too much Total Boat advertising, understand you need the sponsorship but this was the limit for me.
Thanks for these years, and continued good luck with the project.
I know there's only so much content you can produce about these stages of tge boat project but this one was a bit boring live tge channel and yall so take this as constructive criticism not hatefulness
i think your tip is to small.