*PLEASE SUBSCRIBE SO I MAY CONTINUE TO PRODUCE VIDEOS LIKE THIS ONE* Why do 4 cylinder Toyota's burn oil? Easy! Camry, Rav4, Hybrid Camry, xB, tC, Highlander, Matrix, Corolla
I've rebuilt several of these engines and my conclusion is that Toyota changed the piston ring thickness from 1.2mm to 1.0mm on late model 2AZFE starting around 2006. These pistons with the 1.0 mm rings get clogged up very easily and synthetic oil is suppose to take care of this. However, even with the synthetic oil, the rings are still too thin and are easily clogged. In addition, the PCV valve is a threaded type that tends to clog as well. The increase in crankcase pressure increases combustion temperature adding to the clogged piston rings. If you look back at engines with 1.2 mm rings, they do not have this problem. I always recommend to use 1.2 mm ring pistons from a 2003 Camry to resolve this problem. You lose a little fuel efficiency since thinner rings are less resistant in the bore.
We have 2 ‘03 camrys with the 2azfe and both burn about a quart every 1000 miles. Are you sure that the rings are the main issue or are the size and amount of holes the problem?
I have 2009 corrolla 1.3... it was consuming engine oil when i bought it with 106,000km on ODO. It was about 500ml per 1500 KM. I cleaned PCV valve and flushed engine twice with Liqui Moly engine flush. Then cleaned its intake manifold and used Liqui Moly injector cleaner too. Now my corrolla is no more consuming oil while it is 175,500KM now on ODO..
Thanks a bunch for this Its not that I have a Toyota of this model, I don't even have a car. But I have a general interest in cars and this was perfect: To the point and clear. Very satisfying to watch
I did my extension warranty about this issue. I have to say, Toyota did everything fine. They replace all pistons and rings. They provided me a rental car, and I wasn't charged (for nothing) just for a first oil change to do the oil test consumption. Btw, this is one of reasons to buy an Toyota. It can have issue like every car, but Toyota will be fair with you.
A warranty extension may cost almost close to cost of rings and pistons and not needed if issue relates to design issues! An engine which ran with oil consumption usually has bore worn too... changing only rings and piston is like displacing oil consumption by few miles...
You don't pay for a warranty extension. Toyota is extending the warranty to cover a problem. Toyota and Honda stand behinde there cars . Honda has the same warranty extenion. Try and get Ford or GM to fix anything .
329,000 miles on my 4 runner, always use synthetic oil, magnetized oil filter and drain plug, and mine doesn't burn a drop. Also the motor is decarbonnized every year with either seafoam or water. So it comes down to how you take care of your ride!
And yes I have always used Castrol syntec when changing oil at non Toyota oil change stores and of course Toyota synthetic whenever it is at the dealership.
mark p are you saying mobile 1 is a better quality ? Because I’ve been using Edge forever but never tried Mobile one. I didn’t experience using one . If it’s better by any means, I will switch to Mobile 1
Ok… great video but I have one question. I have a 07 scion tc 80k miles and not burning a drop. I probably don’t have warranty since I got it used. But how much do you think it will cost to have Toyota install the new piston design? But again great video! You taught me so much in 2 minuets.
I had this warranty extension procedure done on my 2006 RAV4 2.4L. The dealer tried to sell me over $1200 of additional work most of which had already been done. Even tried to sell me an hour of additional labor to replace the water pump which is right out in the open once the head is off. When they got done they wouldn't even give me a list of the parts they installed then I found where they had busted the CV axle boot and left the transmission two quarts low on fluid. I love Toyota but dealers make a simple process into a nightmare.
I still think toyota makes good engines. The 2.4 L was an example of a mistake they made, but at least they acknowledged it unlike honda and their 1.5 turbos with the oil dilution issue. My grandmother had an 08 camry with the 2.4 Liter and she did not get any notice, but lots of others did.
I had an 2008 Scion xB with a 2AZ-FE. I discovered that my dealership had been putting 5w-30 instead of 5w-20 or 0w-20 as per the owners manual. I know that’s not a big jump viscosity wise but when it comes to tight clearances like I’m a piston that could make the difference
Toyota replaced the pistons and rings in my RAV4 due to the problem you described. No charge. I was burning about a quart every 600 miles and had 150,000 miles on the car. I used the mfg suggested oil weight and changed the oil every 5,000 since the car was new. To be covered under this warranty extension, your car has to burn a lot of oil. They test oil consumption by changing your oil, sealing the drain plug and then check the oil level after 1,200 miles. Mine used 2 quarts during the test, so they scheduled the rebuild. I'm not sure exactly how much you have to burn in 1,200 miles to qualify for a rebuild. Per Toyota, this is not an oil brand, type or, weight issue. Again, according to Toyota, it was a design flaw. I don't know if a class action suit motivated the warranty extension or not...but I really don't care..they fixed it. 40,000 miles later, my car runs perfectly (190,000 miles). Burns no oil between changes. I had and oil analysis done recently by Blackstone Labs. All good, so they must have done a good job on the ring/piston replacement. I'm thinking my next car (after I get 300,000 miles out of this one) will be a Toyota....
Toyota was forced to give the extended warranty precisely because of the class action lawsuits. They did not even go into case proceeding because the plaintiffs supposedly were happy with what Toyota did. So, the plaintiffs dropped the case. What this means is that there might be another lawsuit if those who missed this extended warranty wanted to sue Toyota again.
scott steibel I have a 2006 Rav4. It burns a lot of oil . Which is costly for me cuz I use full synthetic. Mine burns exact amount like yours. But I read owners manual and it says it’s normal to consume it. I don’t understand how is it normal !!!
I have 2008 Camry at the 80,000 miles it starts consuming the oil ! because I paid $900 for bumper to bumper warranty the Toyota handle everything including the loaner car for 3days. now I have 168,000 miles and start the same problem what is your suggestion please
I have a '10 Prius with 1.8 L engine and have same problem and read many others are having the same problem with excessive oil consumption, 1L every 1000 miles! I ALWAYS use fully synthetic 0w20 quality oil too. No extended warranty yet though for this!
If you regularly change your oil & oil filter and remove the crank case vent from recirculating, e.g a catch can you will be surprised how much time it will save you in the long run.
I have had a 2005 Selera which I have 289000 mi on it. No mechanical issues with engine. Maybe since it was new I used Mobile 1 fully synthetic oil changed every 10,00 mi using Toyota oil filters.. Great car
I’ve owned 3, and still have one Tercel, this one a 1997, All with the 5EFE engines. They’ve all been oil burners. Is the reason they eat oil the same reason as described in this video ?
I've noticed that my 2AZ engine burned 1 quart of oil every 1000 kilometers, I did not know about the sludge covering the holes in the oil ring, so without knowing what I learned today in this video, I now understand why it does not burn as much oil anymore, I started to use BARDAHL ENGINE TUNE UP AND FLUSH every two oil change and now it burns only 1 quart of oil every 5000 kilometers. I guess the engine flush got rid of the sludge in the oil ring holes. FYI, I use MAG1 10w-30 motor oil. I am in Central America, average temp year round is about 80 degrees Farenheit. 174K, kilometers on the engine so far and its running like new, smooth and quiet.
My 2001 avensis with 1zzfe engine was obviously outside warranty. However I did a repair on the cheap ( cleaned pistons, new rings, honed cylinders, cleaned/machined head, new valve gaskets, new bearings and a few more bits and pieces). Oil consumption is reduced to whats is to be considered "normal" however i have been topping it off a bit these first 8000kms since I made the repair.
Scotty mentions this known issue in one of his episodes. All manufacturers have some model with issues. The difference is some manufacturers correct it and some do not. Enough said.
I had an 07 Camry xle v6.... Toyota was fabulous about covering things I had like 2 recalls I couldn’t believe it.... any other company you’d have to fight them.... love Toyota.... let me tell ya the 3.5 is such a kick ass motor and look how long they’ve kept it in production.... what’s that tell ya ?
I have a 2AR-FE in the 2012 Camry that I have run synthetic oil usually 5W-30 for the last 130K miles. It has 201K now and burns 2 quarts every 5000 miles. I'm switching to Valvoline Restore & Protect Synthetic to see if after 3-4 oil changes to see if if it will clean up the rings. I just bought 5qt jug. I watched a Lake S video
Modern engines work very hard. Oil has 3 jobs; Cools, Lubricates & Cleans. This is 2018. Synthetic is basically mandatory in all engines. Change every 5k miles and you won't have these issues.
Fucking oil doesnt wear out mineral or synthetic, carbon bonds and all. Additives deplete from all the oils think they dump 100'S OF gallons of oil from large diesel all this bullshit about synthetic its the additive package
I work for Toyota as a technician and I know that the standard interval per Toyota service manual is 10000 miles per oil change if your car runs synthetic, however theres no way I would let my oil go that long.......
Please talk to camry 2008 owners. I for one can say that I did not receive any help in fixing oil consumption issue despite my car having high oil consumption but dealer not accepting it. The oil consumption tests do not let you see oil levels before and after the test. Please see my video on UA-cam tube showing almost same exhaust from oil fill port what probably comes out of tail pipe but dealer finding oil consumption not enough to merit recall/tsb action.
VW doesn't care about the America's since they can sell their cars in Asia. When America fucked them by putting a fwd car on a awd dyno and American politicians made a big deal over false readings which is normal when you do that since the ECU gets totally "confused" it should have been the US to admit their mistake. It's known that engines are tested for fuel economy and crap that gets out the exhaust in laboratory conditions. All American brands do it. Chrysler for sure since that went from Mercedes to Fiat. Then these stupid yanks whine about some nox although they drive their big V8 diesel trucks. One of those throws more crap in the air than 15 1.4 tsi's besides that they already have admitted the problems with that engine over here. Maybe they just don't care about the US??? Funny thing is that VW changes the engines for free even after 3 years. Besides that the problem you talk about also happened to the Audi R8 and Lamborghini V10 FSI engines. Also replaced for free. It's so funny that it can all be traced back to people lugging the engine. They owners ruin the engines and VW can pay. Don't lug engines when you want it to break lug a turbo or supercharged engine. TFSI is both and people love to lug their engine these days probably because most people are idiots they think it's fuel efficient. If an American company had to do what VW did Detroit wouldn't build any car at all anymore. Still weird American cars can pollute 10 times more than a VW Polo but that's ok. Probably why I don't like politics. Seems some court in the US made VW change the engines I am still laughing my ass off that VW even stopped delivering cars that where ordered but weren't paid yet hahahaha. Over here engines that did under 64,000 miles all got a new engine.
My 1989 Corolla 1.3 L Hatch XL does not burn oil after the rebuild by 1600 €. In the first 8 months the surface did not drop at all. Thank you Levomäki in Pori.
I use to have a 1980 toyota 4x4 22r motor half million miles still ran good wireing all bad when sold. My 1989 toyota 4runner now has 418,000 miles runs like a top burns no oil no wireing issues 22re motor.
I have a 2002 Toyota Prius with 221,000 miles on it. I was very grateful to find out that it only used 1 quart of oil between oil changes. Last time I had it serviced the tech could not believe that the oil had 10,000 miles on it between oil changes and not only did the oil still look fresh, but it was only 1 quart low.
1998-2002 Corollas had this problem due to using "low tension" oil rings ( to gain EPA mileage ratings) and also had some problems with the size of oil holes under the oil-ring groove as you state here. Was solved after 2002. Are you telling me a new round of 2007+ problems is occuring? I thought they learned their lesson.
My Cobalt SS turbo burns literally no oil in the winter but in the summer it does. Must be the turbo heating things up too much. My gf had a 2000 echo with 310xxxkm on it and it doesn't burn oil. It's pretty beat up body wise but the motor and transmission are super strong.
You suggested that the holes were not big enough, or that there were not enough holes. Well, aren't the new improved pistons available from Toyota? Aren't they using them for the "fix". Well - can't you look at them? I think a hole count should be easy. Also the hole size - look at them and see? I mean, were you going to re-use the piston(s) you show in this video? (and therefore you did not get to see the new pistons). I would think that anyone that went to the trouble of tearing an engine down would certainly consider strongly using the new improved pistons, no?
It was engineered to use synthetic engine oil and it obviously wasn't used in this engine. All Japanese engines since the early 80's were (maybe earlier than that). If synthetic oil had been used and changed when recommend, this problem wouldn't/doesn't happen. The dealer won't tell you to use synthetic oil because you won't come back every 3~4yrs and buy a new car. The car dealers care about sales, not their clients. There once was a Mobil 1 display at the parts counter at every Toyota dealership, but they wouldn't tell you to use synthetic oil and would usually agree with you that it wasn't worth it and too expensive to buy. For example, the factory oils in the differentials, transfer case, and transmission on either the Tundra or Tacoma are synthetic oils. They are, partly because the parts are a lot less likely to fail before the warranty runs out. I have a couple 86~89 body style Celicas and the engines don't have this problem. Neither does any of the VW or Audi I service. From new they make you use synthetic oil. Chev won't warranty the engine on a Corvette if you don't use synthetic engine oil; since the past 15~20yrs. So if synthetic oil isn't worth it, why do some of the other manufacturers void your warranty if there's a oil related failure. Amsoil is pretty much the best and their best oil for gas engines lasts 40,000km (25,000miles). For diesel its 3x OEM recommended interval. More if you use an oil by-pass kit.
Does this also applies to to a Prius? I have a 2012 Prius V that I have to add oil to it between 500 to 1,000 miles. I contacted Toyota and they said there are no issues of what I am having with other Prius. I have about 180,000 miles on the vehicle now.
My fuel tank aluminum shield heat shield for the camry 2007 (between the muffler and the fuel tank) came off as it is broken around the 4 bolts under the car. Do you know how can I put a new one? I find it very difficult to remove the bolts. DO I have to remove the stabilizer bar? Please advise. Thank you
Unfortunately not in Canada my 2009 Camry Hybrid has been burning oil forever and Toyota did a lame 1000km oil change then check level and said it's normal to burn some oil I have to put in a litre to two litres in between oil changes Toyota has washed it's hands off its faulty motors I am going to remember this when it is time to replace this 2009 Camry Hybrid.
Same here. Right before the 10 year warranty expired, they said I didn't burn enough oil to fail the test. 6 months later, I add about 1 quart per month of driving - a ridiculous amount. Last Toyota for me...
They did the same exact thing to me on my 09 matrix . When i replaced my 97 tercel which ran forever to 400,000 burning some oil i decided to get a chevrolet as opposed to toyota and I released how much better this brand is than toyota
Quick question, I brought my Camry used from a none Toyota dealership. I've been burning oil. Is there anyway I can go to a Toyota dealership and inquire if my car - engine can have the replacement done? My car is a 2008 Camry se? I'm trying to get this fixed before something goes wrong w/ my engine
+PlainOldJim thank you. I noticed my dip stick reads very low and I've added oil. I will go and do this tomorrow. Appreciate the information because every time I go get an oil change they say no oil leaks. And I was starting to notice I needed to add more oil every 2 months damn near 1200 miles. Thank you
Install an oil catch can to to your vehicles, the larger the better, after the warranty expires. I made one from two 10" x 1" AL square tubes filled with stainless steel pads. The intake manifold hose now remains completely dry. Before, the hose was wet with oil from the engine's PCV tube. My 2003 Elantra engine runs as good as new.
I have a 2001 Corolla that burns as much oil as gas. I would like to buy a newer corolla but I don't know which year if any they have corrected the oil burning problem in.
My camry 2007 failed the test. The dealer is ordering the parts for repair. As far as I knew they are replacing the pistons and rings. Also will examine the bearing and crankshaft. Do you recommend I change anything else even if it is on my own expenses just because they will open the engine anyway? For example oil pump, water pump, engine mounts, timing chain, valve stem seals... etc I also thought they are replacing the valves but the technician said they will not unless there is a damage. I am also not sure if they hone the cylinders or not. The car has 110K. What do you recommend? Should i ask for replacing the cylinder block (even on my expenses) My concern is that the engine is shaking somehow? Thank you
+zofa300 do the valve stem seals. I guarantee they are dry rotted and leaking a little. They do not hone the cylinders. The block has an anti-wear coating on the cylinder walls, and if honed, removes the coating. There are explicit instructions in the repair kit to not hone the cylinder walls.
Thank you so much for your reply. Is the valve stem seals are covered under this repair or I should ask to replace them on my own expenses? I expect they are cheap? Thanks
+zofa300 they are not part of the warranty extension and as a result would be a customer pay item. The seals are cheap but it's about 4 to 6 hours of labor to install them. They require full disassembly of the internals of the engine head, which comes off the car but does not get disassembled for the warranty repair. You would be responsible for the labor for the teardown of the engine head.
+RedRashBallz call the dealer and say your car is burning oil, and if it qualifies under the warranty enhancement, they will instruct you further on steps to be taken.
Do you have a description of the type of Pistons and piston rings that I should buy and where. Because I’m having the same problem and I’m going to change them out myself
It's not necessary because the cylinder bore is worn in and the thermal expansion has run it's course. Engines heat up when new and a "break-in" period is required and usually an oil change. Once the block and cylinder heads have gone through hot cold cycles and all moving parts have found their happy medium...you're good to go for the lifecycle of that particular engine unless there is a re-sizing of the cylinder bores and new pistons and rings.
@@syloui I have a Corolla model with a 1ZZ engine with VVT-i that was first produced in the year 2000. My car burns through a lot of oil and hasn't even done 180,000km yet. Apparently it's common with VVT-i.
@@aspiringaspie3280 lol I keep forgetting it's 2020. remember how people treat toyota engines when considering how common oil burn issues on a model might be; however the 2az specifically had so many oil burning instances even before 100,000km that it resulted in class action lawsuit and recall that unfortunately only lasted till 2016
My XB has burned it since new at the same rate. I think it's just luck of the draw. (10 years old). Otherwise, the car has been the most trouble free car I've ever had. averaging about $20 a year in unscheduled maintenance so far.
Not all Toyota's burn oil, a few of there 4cylinder engines are more prone to it than others but my 99 4runner with 299k doesn't burn a drop. Honda's 4cylinders in my option are worse for oil consumption than any other. Ask any seasoned auto tech about the Honda k20/k24 engines those are the worst in my experience. The K series Honda's burn oil, stretch chains and jump timing. Any engine will burn oil, this is normal, the rate it burns it is related to proper oil change intervals (Not 7k miles) and design. Manufacturer's telling people to go 5-10k between oil changes is what's causing all this recent rash(last 10yrs)of oil burning 4 cyls. Just change the oil every 3-4k and 99% of the time you won't have any problems.
nandoGdog I was a mechanic in the early eighties when they made them like they used too. In those days anything with over a hundred thousand miles was pretty much considered worn out.
That is why 100% synthetic motor oils are Superior and keep engine components clean and spotless. You get what you pay. Also, motor oils formulated using crude oil as base stoke oil, keep repair shops in business. Good job on the video.
repairvehicle Most of the full synthetic oils you can purchase right away is made from a crude oil base stock which is most likely group lll. Amsoil, redline, motul and a few others are true 100% synthetic oils. I know for a fact mobil 1 full synthetic oil has a higher percentage rate in evaporation compared to other full synthetics.
repairvehicle No but I plan on doing so soon but I have a few friends who do use it and said the oil was awesome and didn't break down as fast compared to full synthetic oils like mobil 1, pennzoil, castrol, etc. The mobil 1 made almost 20 years ago used to be 100% synthetic but ever since the mobil 1 vs castrol case in the '90s, oil companies are allowed to sell oil as full synthetic oils because it uses synthetic additives. It sounds stupid and false advertisement but the US court system allows these companies to advertise as such. So the old mobil 1 your dad used, your uncle used, your grandpa used is not the same as what we use today so don't always go based of previous experiences and read the most current MSDS sheets for all oils to see what you're really buying. Now the new mobil 1 annual oil is something most of us can't seem to find info in to see if it is indeed a true group iv 100% synthetic oil.
Good video and good images of the parts. Now a question. The new motors like my 2017 Hylander V6 call for 0W-20 oil. I think this is a bad idea. In my view they are only going to such light oil to reduce parasitic drag from higher oil pressures trying to squeeze out every more MPG. Might get a tiny bit of MPG but not good for long term engine life. I am running 5W-30.
No! Your bearing clearances are set for the lighter oil. Thicker oil will not flow properly into the bearings and the vvt. You'll kill the top end. The cam phasers are ran by oil pressure.
Does this include the 07 Yaris S Sedan? My girl's is using a quart between 5k oil changes. It has 232,000 miles on it. And, would full synthetic be better than the blend at this stage?
mrkd283 no the main cause and only cause Is the reintroduction of unburned gases such as the pvc back in the engine It becomes a dark tar substance and gets stuck in all valve train components. This is the main souce. Every single manufacturer has this same setup. Although aftermarket has oil catch can that prevent this.
Toyota actually offers an updated piston set for these engines, is that enough for you ? BTW most of them (sold minus wrecked before this issue ones) have this problem.
you may like to buy a 2007-2009 Camry with good maintenance records and experience yourself... we will wait for your comments then!If you so wish, I have all service receipts from Toyota dealer...
I have a 2012 and I am noticing all of a sudden my car is eating my oil I had to fill it up with another court two different times within three weeks. Each time three weeks. I sure hope the warranty is still good!!! How are we supposed to know that’s usually I get a letter in the mail!!
Toyota has a Good Will Warranty; Excessive Oil Consumption Test. If the vehicle is Under 100k Miles and under 10 Years Old. And Burns More than 1.5 Quarts per 1400 Miles, Toyota Will Rebuild the Engine! at No Cost! They replaced Pistons, Rings, Rods, Bearings etc. and only upsold me on a Water pump and Belt!
they replace piston and sometimes the bearings. If wear is in the cylinder wall its a whole new short block. They do not replace rods in engines that only require the updated pistons
They should have extend the warranty indefinitely because of their crappy engine that eat oils, instead of only 10 years and poor notice to owners to sit out the time so that they don't have to fix all their cars.
Hi I bought a used rav4 2007 sports just realized it's burning oil I was not aware of this issue. Called Toyota but they told me service campaign is over, and the sweet lady on phone just advised me to check oil regularly to make sure my motor has oil at all time no mechanic is ready to change the piston they keep telling me just get a new motor and install it. I was wondering what parts I need to fix this problem I mean do I need specific part numbers or is there a kit I can buy I have a guy who is willing to work on the motor. Thanks for your help.
So, is there nothing that can be added to the gasoline tank to help the bottom piston ring and improve oil burning. I was thinking about buying a used prius, but then I saw this issue all over the internet.
only 137k miles and the piston looks like that? Damn, I've got 190k on my 2004 Taco 3.4L and the pistons look shiny compared to that. Someone's been using grocery store motor oil.
my 2006/2007 toyota estima/previa/tarago acr50 2az-fe CVT burns 1.5L for every 5000km. is it the piston's problem too..? drill a bigger hole & that's it..?
If you hate Toyotas then why are you watching a video on how to fix them??? if your watching this and hating on other peoples comments, you probably own one... (no reply)
You're the only dumbass in this conversation. I know exactly what i'm talking about. Experience like you've would never believe. Not responding to your tard theories any further.
Looks like somebody was using some crap oil from the 1950's from a junked car in that engine. I always use Amsoil military spec synthetic oil in everything I own that has a engine in it.
+Ves Andreev all components of the head are inspected for trueness and damage but none are replaced unless damaged by lack of lubrication. The head gasket is also obviously replaced.
Thanks a lot! I'm asking, because I plan on buying used Scion tC and I may ask the dealer to perform this rebuild, but want to make sure you guys replace all parts in case the previous owner drove with little or no oil in the engine.
All Toyota buyers make out that Toyotas are perfect and never have a problem , quite an amazing myth that enables Toyota to sell billions of more dollars in cars , this car needed engine oil flush put through it at oil change time as it cleans around all the rings .
The only difference is: Toyota steps up to the plate with their errors. 10 year buyback of First Gen Tacomas for rusting frame issues (due to Dana not correctly coating). 10 year repairs for their 3.0 V6 head gasket issues (too bad Ford didn't do that for their 3.8 or GM with their LT1). 10 year repair for headights, master cylinder, EGR issues on their Prius.
I only use Quaker State full synthetic motor oil, and change oil and filter every 2,000 miles. My Prius starting burning oil at 120,000 miles. It uses about 2 quarts per 2,000 miles. I ain't the only one. Toyotas burn oil.
Really? Honestly? Not. Some Toyota's do burn oil, especially late 2000's 4 cylinder....unfortunately Toyota usually doesn't warranty them unless they burn massive amounts. Here in Canada they will only cover warranty if it is burning in excess of 1 litre per 1000 kilometres. That's nasty. (1000km=620 miles) However I've never owned a Toyota that was an oil burner. My '02 SuperCharged Tacoma with almost 300,000 miles doesn't use a drop and I drive the crap out of it. My '03 Corolla uses no oil either. Honda, on the other hand.....well now they have issues. My '02 Civic will easily burn a gallon of oil between 5,000 kilometre oil changes(3,100 miles) however it does not show exhaust smoke, nor does it leak oil.
I have a 2000 corolla 163k, runs like a top but burns the hell out of oil, I'm just going to keep running it, too old and too many miles to qualify for a free toyota rebuild, not worth enough money for me to rebuild my self, it makes decent power still, so I'm just going to run it till it blows
I'd like to provide a by the way for this. When I purchased my scion, it would burn about 1 1/2 quarts per 5k miles. As many of you know, this made Scion the target of a class suit (I think, not sure about that part) and they offered to seal my motor and check consumption. My entire family bought XB's after I did (there's no similar car as cheap without feeling small inside) and my FIL took his to the dealer and had it sealed. In 1k miles, it burned a large fraction of a quart, and he thought he'd get a free rebuild, but they said that it was an acceptable amount. Since my car finished its first oil change with just over two quarts drained (it's 4.3 total to fill), I've added oil incrementally since then (for ten years) and no issue. All four of these cars in the family have required topping off from time to time, but none of the four have had any mechanical problems (average of 9 years old and about 150k miles). Bottom line. I don't think it's all fouling, all four of our cars did it from new. AND, check the engine oil from time to time and add, as my oil indicator light never came on when I had just over 2 qts of oil left out of the original 4.3. I have no clue when it does, once it runs out? The water pump on these cars slobbers, too, but in the case of all four of ours, never fast enough to make it worth replacing. So far, I have added coolant once, but now that the car is out of warranty, the garage would love to change the water pump, showing me all the time the line of slobber on the hood. Purely cosmetic. Each time, I tell them I'm going to let it go because I like to gamble, and I think it'll be a thrill if it goes all at once.
Another by the way. Unscheduled maintenance on my XB in 10 years has been $150. (one taillight bulb, and the cost of two coils). Add a little more if you want to charge me for the extra oil I've added and the gallon of coolant I keep on hand. Probably another 75 bucks. The car has tons of room to work around the engine, it wears tires like it knows how much is on each side (perfectly even), and has never had an alignment, even in pittsburgh where potholes are the rule rather than the exception.
yea toyota specs are 1k to 1200 miles per quart. mines doing 3-500 per quart so definitely an issue. also the warranty is 10 years or 150k miles. so im taking mine in
We have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE with 2.4L but we’ve never received a Recall for that bcoz we’ve moved from different address. It’s been loosing oil and I keep adding oil every week and a half.
I wonder wether putting some strong cleaning agents (petrol/diesel/thinners/mmo/seafoam etc) directly into the cylinders and letting it sit overnight followed by a seafoam run (3rd in tank, 3rd in oil, 3rd in intake) and a good old italian tune up follwed by an oil change would cure this for a while.
I've rebuilt several of these engines and my conclusion is that Toyota changed the piston ring thickness from 1.2mm to 1.0mm on late model 2AZFE starting around 2006. These pistons with the 1.0 mm rings get clogged up very easily and synthetic oil is suppose to take care of this. However, even with the synthetic oil, the rings are still too thin and are easily clogged. In addition, the PCV valve is a threaded type that tends to clog as well. The increase in crankcase pressure increases combustion temperature adding to the clogged piston rings. If you look back at engines with 1.2 mm rings, they do not have this problem. I always recommend to use 1.2 mm ring pistons from a 2003 Camry to resolve this problem. You lose a little fuel efficiency since thinner rings are less resistant in the bore.
Joe, Will the 1.2mm piston ring fit onto the piston of the 2007 Camry engine?
@@alengine94 In a nut shell Zaid...NO. :)
We have 2 ‘03 camrys with the 2azfe and both burn about a quart every 1000 miles. Are you sure that the rings are the main issue or are the size and amount of holes the problem?
Issa Vibez you sure? I filled mine up a bunch of times between when I last got the oil changed and now
Should I even replace pistons? Or just the rings, got 180k?
I have 2009 corrolla 1.3... it was consuming engine oil when i bought it with 106,000km on ODO. It was about 500ml per 1500 KM. I cleaned PCV valve and flushed engine twice with Liqui Moly engine flush. Then cleaned its intake manifold and used Liqui Moly injector cleaner too. Now my corrolla is no more consuming oil while it is 175,500KM now on ODO..
Same story here
Thanks a bunch for this
Its not that I have a Toyota of this model, I don't even have a car.
But I have a general interest in cars and this was perfect: To the point and clear. Very satisfying to watch
Thank you! Very Clear and concise video. Toyota fixed my 07 Solara and no issues.
Very informative.
Thank you for posting
This is mainly why i tell people to use a higher grade oil such as semi or full. The additives actually benefit your engine.
Great info good to know I'm considering buying an 07 will do a vin check,thanks much!
Thanks!!!! Awesome tip. Just subscribed.
I did my extension warranty about this issue. I have to say, Toyota did everything fine. They replace all pistons and rings. They provided me a rental car, and I wasn't charged (for nothing) just for a first oil change to do the oil test consumption. Btw, this is one of reasons to buy an Toyota. It can have issue like every car, but Toyota will be fair with you.
Willian Gonçalves how is your car running now? and did u do the head?
I didn't, and runs great! Serious, much better, gas consumption better, no more oil consumption. Everything is fine! Go ahead...
A warranty extension may cost almost close to cost of rings and pistons and not needed if issue relates to design issues! An engine which ran with oil consumption usually has bore worn too... changing only rings and piston is like displacing oil consumption by few miles...
MS13071963 yep, but I wasn't charged 😛
You don't pay for a warranty extension. Toyota is extending the warranty to cover a problem. Toyota and Honda stand behinde there cars . Honda has the same warranty extenion. Try and get Ford or GM to fix anything .
329,000 miles on my 4 runner, always use synthetic oil, magnetized oil filter and drain plug, and mine doesn't burn a drop. Also the motor is decarbonnized every year with either seafoam or water. So it comes down to how you take care of your ride!
Short and to the point, nice video. :)
Very informative, like to see these videos
use marvel mystery oil in fuel and oil for about 3000 miles and it will clean oil rings and combustion chmabers.
And yes I have always used Castrol syntec when changing oil at non Toyota oil change stores and of course Toyota synthetic whenever it is at the dealership.
mark p are you saying mobile 1 is a better quality ? Because I’ve been using Edge forever but never tried Mobile one. I didn’t experience using one . If it’s better by any means, I will switch to Mobile 1
Ok… great video but I have one question. I have a 07 scion tc 80k miles and not burning a drop. I probably don’t have warranty since I got it used. But how much do you think it will cost to have Toyota install the new piston design?
But again great video! You taught me so much in 2 minuets.
Excellent way to explain bro 👍🏼
I had this warranty extension procedure done on my 2006 RAV4 2.4L. The dealer tried to sell me over $1200 of additional work most of which had already been done. Even tried to sell me an hour of additional labor to replace the water pump which is right out in the open once the head is off. When they got done they wouldn't even give me a list of the parts they installed then I found where they had busted the CV axle boot and left the transmission two quarts low on fluid. I love Toyota but dealers make a simple process into a nightmare.
I still think toyota makes good engines. The 2.4 L was an example of a mistake they made, but at least they acknowledged it unlike honda and their 1.5 turbos with the oil dilution issue. My grandmother had an 08 camry with the 2.4 Liter and she did not get any notice, but lots of others did.
Thanks for posting! Question what grit should I hone out the cylinders with. I believe its a 3.5 inch bore but what grit? Thanks!
I had an 2008 Scion xB with a 2AZ-FE. I discovered that my dealership had been putting 5w-30 instead of 5w-20 or 0w-20 as per the owners manual. I know that’s not a big jump viscosity wise but when it comes to tight clearances like I’m a piston that could make the difference
Toyota replaced the pistons and rings in my RAV4 due to the problem you described. No charge. I was burning about a quart every 600 miles and had 150,000 miles on the car. I used the mfg suggested oil weight and changed the oil every 5,000 since the car was new. To be covered under this warranty extension, your car has to burn a lot of oil. They test oil consumption by changing your oil, sealing the drain plug and then check the oil level after 1,200 miles. Mine used 2 quarts during the test, so they scheduled the rebuild. I'm not sure exactly how much you have to burn in 1,200 miles to qualify for a rebuild.
Per Toyota, this is not an oil brand, type or, weight issue. Again, according to Toyota, it was a design flaw. I don't know if a class action suit motivated the warranty extension or not...but I really don't care..they fixed it.
40,000 miles later, my car runs perfectly (190,000 miles). Burns no oil between changes. I had and oil analysis done recently by Blackstone Labs. All good, so they must have done a good job on the ring/piston replacement.
I'm thinking my next car (after I get 300,000 miles out of this one) will be a Toyota....
Toyota was forced to give the extended warranty precisely because of the class action lawsuits. They did not even go into case proceeding because the plaintiffs supposedly were happy with what Toyota did. So, the plaintiffs dropped the case. What this means is that there might be another lawsuit if those who missed this extended warranty wanted to sue Toyota again.
scott steibel I have a 2006 Rav4. It burns a lot of oil . Which is costly for me cuz I use full synthetic. Mine burns exact amount like yours. But I read owners manual and it says it’s normal to consume it. I don’t understand how is it normal !!!
I have 2008 Camry at the 80,000 miles it starts consuming the oil ! because I paid $900 for bumper to bumper warranty the Toyota handle everything including the loaner car for 3days. now I have 168,000 miles and start the same problem what is your suggestion please
I have a '10 Prius with 1.8 L engine and have same problem and read many others are having the same problem with excessive oil consumption, 1L every 1000 miles! I ALWAYS use fully synthetic 0w20 quality oil too. No extended warranty yet though for this!
Hey Jim, how easy is it to pull the pistons with the engine in the car? How do you support the block and remove the lower half?
If you regularly change your oil & oil filter and remove the crank case vent from recirculating, e.g a catch can you will be surprised how much time it will save you in the long run.
350,000 miles and counting
I have had a 2005 Selera which I have 289000 mi on it. No mechanical issues with engine. Maybe since it was new I used Mobile 1 fully synthetic oil changed every 10,00 mi using Toyota oil filters.. Great car
I’ve owned 3, and still have one Tercel, this one a 1997, All with the 5EFE engines. They’ve all been oil burners.
Is the reason they eat oil the same reason as described in this video ?
I wish I saw this video before I bought a 2009 Camry le! Damnit
just change the oil at 5k
And check it once a week. Unless you have a 6 cylinder.
I sold that POS
no worry 1/2 a quart for every 2500 miles.
i have same car, same problem ...runnning
it for 6 years
I've noticed that my 2AZ engine burned 1 quart of oil every 1000 kilometers, I did not know about the sludge covering the holes in the oil ring, so without knowing what I learned today in this video, I now understand why it does not burn as much oil anymore, I started to use BARDAHL ENGINE TUNE UP AND FLUSH every two oil change and now it burns only 1 quart of oil every 5000 kilometers. I guess the engine flush got rid of the sludge in the oil ring holes. FYI, I use MAG1 10w-30 motor oil. I am in Central America, average temp year round is about 80 degrees Farenheit. 174K, kilometers on the engine so far and its running like new, smooth and quiet.
Aún sigues con tu auto ? Que mejorías has tenido o sigue igual
You need to use the 5w-20 oil that’s what the engine was made for
Besides this oil burning, are these 2azfe 4cyl pretty reliable?
Are all of them affected?
How many quarts on average they burn?
My 2001 avensis with 1zzfe engine was obviously outside warranty. However I did a repair on the cheap ( cleaned pistons, new rings, honed cylinders, cleaned/machined head, new valve gaskets, new bearings and a few more bits and pieces). Oil consumption is reduced to whats is to be considered "normal" however i have been topping it off a bit these first 8000kms since I made the repair.
Wow, You never hear Scotty Kilmer say anything bad about Toyotas. According to Him everything else is Junk...🤔.Thanks for bringing this to light..
Scotty mentions this known issue in one of his episodes. All manufacturers have some model with issues. The difference is some manufacturers correct it and some do not. Enough said.
Even the camrys affected by this issue are still very reliable though
ua-cam.com/video/cdvjVnwE4Ec/v-deo.html Welp, he finally made a video on this exact engine issue
@@gamezmeow actually he made a video before that one like a guy above me said, he has made several videos ua-cam.com/video/B0NwnbVN1cw/v-deo.html
I had an 07 Camry xle v6.... Toyota was fabulous about covering things I had like 2 recalls I couldn’t believe it.... any other company you’d have to fight them.... love Toyota.... let me tell ya the 3.5 is such a kick ass motor and look how long they’ve kept it in production.... what’s that tell ya ?
Tell me how you did it, cuz I called today and she told me the warrant is already expired. Please, help me out.
Atiffalfo Ofl all I can say is it was a Toyota recall on mine... have you asked Toyota directly ?
I have a 2AR-FE in the 2012 Camry that I have run synthetic oil usually 5W-30 for the last 130K miles. It has 201K now and burns 2 quarts every 5000 miles. I'm switching to Valvoline Restore & Protect Synthetic to see if after 3-4 oil changes to see if if it will clean up the rings. I just bought 5qt jug. I watched a Lake S video
How much would it cost in parts and labor to fix the oil burning issue in a 2000 Corolla?
Modern engines work very hard. Oil has 3 jobs; Cools, Lubricates & Cleans. This is 2018. Synthetic is basically mandatory in all engines. Change every 5k miles and you won't have these issues.
change synthetic every 5k miles is a waste. 10k will be more reasonable. Keep in mind that oil color wont tell its condition
can't argue with that logic rare case, a happy engine is a quiet engine
Fucking oil doesnt wear out mineral or synthetic, carbon bonds and all. Additives deplete from all the oils think they dump 100'S OF gallons of oil from large diesel all this bullshit about synthetic its the additive package
I agree. The dealership recommends changing your oil every 10k. I do it every 5k. We've had 4 toyotas and none of them burned a drop of oil.
I work for Toyota as a technician and I know that the standard interval per Toyota service manual is 10000 miles per oil change if your car runs synthetic, however theres no way I would let my oil go that long.......
at least toyota stands up to their mistakes not like vw with the 1.4 tsi
Please talk to camry 2008 owners. I for one can say that I did not receive any help in fixing oil consumption issue despite my car having high oil consumption but dealer not accepting it. The oil consumption tests do not let you see oil levels before and after the test. Please see my video on UA-cam tube showing almost same exhaust from oil fill port what probably comes out of tail pipe but dealer finding oil consumption not enough to merit recall/tsb action.
I like how people refer to other brand problems in order to defend their favourite brands. If that makes you feel better, then it's ok.
VW doesn't care about the America's since they can sell their cars in Asia. When America fucked them by putting a fwd car on a awd dyno and American politicians made a big deal over false readings which is normal when you do that since the ECU gets totally "confused" it should have been the US to admit their mistake. It's known that engines are tested for fuel economy and crap that gets out the exhaust in laboratory conditions. All American brands do it. Chrysler for sure since that went from Mercedes to Fiat. Then these stupid yanks whine about some nox although they drive their big V8 diesel trucks. One of those throws more crap in the air than 15 1.4 tsi's besides that they already have admitted the problems with that engine over here. Maybe they just don't care about the US??? Funny thing is that VW changes the engines for free even after 3 years. Besides that the problem you talk about also happened to the Audi R8 and Lamborghini V10 FSI engines. Also replaced for free. It's so funny that it can all be traced back to people lugging the engine. They owners ruin the engines and VW can pay. Don't lug engines when you want it to break lug a turbo or supercharged engine. TFSI is both and people love to lug their engine these days probably because most people are idiots they think it's fuel efficient. If an American company had to do what VW did Detroit wouldn't build any car at all anymore. Still weird American cars can pollute 10 times more than a VW Polo but that's ok. Probably why I don't like politics. Seems some court in the US made VW change the engines I am still laughing my ass off that VW even stopped delivering cars that where ordered but weren't paid yet hahahaha. Over here engines that did under 64,000 miles all got a new engine.
Hfhh Cngf. or Ford with their spark plugs
Hfhh Cngf
Most other manufacturers would say "nothing to do with us"
My 1989 Corolla 1.3 L Hatch XL does not burn oil after the rebuild by 1600 €. In the first 8 months the surface did not drop at all. Thank you Levomäki in Pori.
I use to have a 1980 toyota 4x4 22r motor half million miles still ran good wireing all bad when sold. My 1989 toyota 4runner now has 418,000 miles runs like a top burns no oil no wireing issues 22re motor.
I have a 2002 Toyota Prius with 221,000 miles on it. I was very grateful to find out that it only used 1 quart of oil between oil changes. Last time I had it serviced the tech could not believe that the oil had 10,000 miles on it between oil changes and not only did the oil still look fresh, but it was only 1 quart low.
You forgot the Toyota 3E-E engine from the Tercel line up also burn lots of oil.
+Ian “Dbz4ever10” Above that's before my time
PlainOldJim
Oh.
that engine was not the best
That's pre history car, forget about it
1998-2002 Corollas had this problem due to using "low tension" oil rings ( to gain EPA mileage ratings) and also had some problems with the size of oil holes under the oil-ring groove as you state here. Was solved after 2002. Are you telling me a new round of 2007+ problems is occuring? I thought they learned their lesson.
My Cobalt SS turbo burns literally no oil in the winter but in the summer it does. Must be the turbo heating things up too much. My gf had a 2000 echo with 310xxxkm on it and it doesn't burn oil. It's pretty beat up body wise but the motor and transmission are super strong.
You suggested that the holes were not big enough, or that there were not enough holes. Well, aren't the new improved pistons available from Toyota? Aren't they using them for the "fix". Well - can't you look at them? I think a hole count should be easy. Also the hole size - look at them and see? I mean, were you going to re-use the piston(s) you show in this video? (and therefore you did not get to see the new pistons).
I would think that anyone that went to the trouble of tearing an engine down would certainly consider strongly using the new improved pistons, no?
It was engineered to use synthetic engine oil and it obviously wasn't used in this engine.
All Japanese engines since the early 80's were (maybe earlier than that).
If synthetic oil had been used and changed when recommend, this problem wouldn't/doesn't happen.
The dealer won't tell you to use synthetic oil because you won't come back every 3~4yrs and buy a new car.
The car dealers care about sales, not their clients.
There once was a Mobil 1 display at the parts counter at every Toyota dealership, but they wouldn't tell you to use synthetic oil and would usually agree with you that it wasn't worth it and too expensive to buy.
For example, the factory oils in the differentials, transfer case, and transmission on either the Tundra or Tacoma are synthetic oils. They are, partly because the parts are a lot less likely to fail before the warranty runs out.
I have a couple 86~89 body style Celicas and the engines don't have this problem.
Neither does any of the VW or Audi I service. From new they make you use synthetic oil.
Chev won't warranty the engine on a Corvette if you don't use synthetic engine oil; since the past 15~20yrs.
So if synthetic oil isn't worth it, why do some of the other manufacturers void your warranty if there's a oil related failure.
Amsoil is pretty much the best and their best oil for gas engines lasts 40,000km (25,000miles). For diesel its 3x OEM recommended interval. More if you use an oil by-pass kit.
Does this also applies to to a Prius? I have a 2012 Prius V that I have to add oil to it between 500 to 1,000 miles. I contacted Toyota and they said there are no issues of what I am having with other Prius. I have about 180,000 miles on the vehicle now.
My fuel tank aluminum shield heat shield for the camry 2007 (between the muffler and the fuel tank) came off as it is broken around the 4 bolts under the car. Do you know how can I put a new one? I find it very difficult to remove the bolts. DO I have to remove the stabilizer bar? Please advise.
Thank you
Unfortunately not in Canada my 2009 Camry Hybrid has been burning oil forever and Toyota did a lame 1000km oil change then check level and said it's normal to burn some oil I have to put in a litre to two litres in between oil changes Toyota has washed it's hands off its faulty motors I am going to remember this when it is time to replace this 2009 Camry Hybrid.
Sanjeev Goswami !
ayy6e
Same here. Right before the 10 year warranty expired, they said I didn't burn enough oil to fail the test. 6 months later, I add about 1 quart per month of driving - a ridiculous amount. Last Toyota for me...
They did the same exact thing to me on my 09 matrix . When i replaced my 97 tercel which ran forever to 400,000 burning some oil i decided to get a chevrolet as opposed to toyota and I released how much better this brand is than toyota
Quick question, I brought my Camry used from a none Toyota dealership. I've been burning oil. Is there anyway I can go to a Toyota dealership and inquire if my car - engine can have the replacement done? My car is a 2008 Camry se? I'm trying to get this fixed before something goes wrong w/ my engine
+ChanelMM yes go in and inquire about it, it doesn't matter where it was purchased.
+PlainOldJim thank you. I noticed my dip stick reads very low and I've added oil. I will go and do this tomorrow. Appreciate the information because every time I go get an oil change they say no oil leaks. And I was starting to notice I needed to add more oil every 2 months damn near 1200 miles. Thank you
PlainOldJim are u working in toyota company? I have toyota corolla 2004 model does burning of oil affect this model?
Ndifreke Udo yes, the 2004 corolla I-4 engine definitely burns oil
@Wildman Toyotas are manufactured in US.
Install an oil catch can to to your vehicles, the larger the better, after the warranty expires.
I made one from two 10" x 1" AL square tubes filled with stainless steel pads. The intake manifold hose now remains completely dry. Before, the hose was wet with oil from the engine's PCV tube.
My 2003 Elantra engine runs as good as new.
I have a 2001 Corolla that burns as much oil as gas. I would like to buy a newer corolla but I don't know which year if any they have corrected the oil burning problem in.
My 1995 Mercedes s320 has 350k miles and doesn’t burn a drop of oil
My camry 2007 failed the test. The dealer is ordering the parts for repair. As far as I knew they are replacing the pistons and rings. Also will examine the bearing and crankshaft.
Do you recommend I change anything else even if it is on my own expenses just because they will open the engine anyway? For example oil pump, water pump, engine mounts, timing chain, valve stem seals... etc
I also thought they are replacing the valves but the technician said they will not unless there is a damage. I am also not sure if they hone the cylinders or not. The car has 110K.
What do you recommend? Should i ask for replacing the cylinder block (even on my expenses)
My concern is that the engine is shaking somehow?
Thank you
+zofa300 do the valve stem seals. I guarantee they are dry rotted and leaking a little.
They do not hone the cylinders. The block has an anti-wear coating on the cylinder walls, and if honed, removes the coating. There are explicit instructions in the repair kit to not hone the cylinder walls.
Thank you so much for your reply. Is the valve stem seals are covered under this repair or I should ask to replace them on my own expenses? I expect they are cheap?
Thanks
+zofa300 they are not part of the warranty extension and as a result would be a customer pay item. The seals are cheap but it's about 4 to 6 hours of labor to install them. They require full disassembly of the internals of the engine head, which comes off the car but does not get disassembled for the warranty repair. You would be responsible for the labor for the teardown of the engine head.
zofa300 Hey bro quick question. How did you go about doing that. Did you just call the dealer and state your problem? is the work going to be free?
+RedRashBallz call the dealer and say your car is burning oil, and if it qualifies under the warranty enhancement, they will instruct you further on steps to be taken.
How are the Yaris engines holding up? I've got a 2010, best car I've ever owned.
Do you have a description of the type of Pistons and piston rings that I should buy and where. Because I’m having the same problem and I’m going to change them out myself
Hi,
I just got the car back after changing the pistons and the rings. Should I drive slowley to seat the rings or not really?
Thanks
+zofa300 no you are fine to drive it normally.
Run in is not needed as an oil consuming car usually has worn out bore...
Drive it like you stole it
It's not necessary because the cylinder bore is worn in and the thermal expansion has run it's course. Engines heat up when new and a "break-in" period is required and usually an oil change. Once the block and cylinder heads have gone through hot cold cycles and all moving parts have found their happy medium...you're good to go for the lifecycle of that particular engine unless there is a re-sizing of the cylinder bores and new pistons and rings.
I have been building engines for 25 years ,even a hole new engine warm it up and drive it hard
I had a 4 cylinder toyota for 20 years. Never burned or leaked a drop of oil.
But was it a VVT-i engine?
@@aspiringaspie3280 he said 20 years so certainly not a 2az-fe. toyota engines from 20 years ago are tanks
@@syloui I have a Corolla model with a 1ZZ engine with VVT-i that was first produced in the year 2000.
My car burns through a lot of oil and hasn't even done 180,000km yet. Apparently it's common with VVT-i.
@@aspiringaspie3280 lol I keep forgetting it's 2020. remember how people treat toyota engines when considering how common oil burn issues on a model might be; however the 2az specifically had so many oil burning instances even before 100,000km that it resulted in class action lawsuit and recall that unfortunately only lasted till 2016
Me to until I accidentally over filled the oil
Do you think some of it is either people not changing the oil on time or oil changing places not using good oil?
great video.... even greater that toyota stands by there product....glad i bought a 15 camry...
I have a 2006 scion tc manual which has been used daily for 12 years and never has it burned oil. Must have been a defect affecting some vehicles
likewise
My XB has burned it since new at the same rate. I think it's just luck of the draw. (10 years old). Otherwise, the car has been the most trouble free car I've ever had. averaging about $20 a year in unscheduled maintenance so far.
Toyota's never burn oil!
Exactly ! Never seen or heard of a Toyota burning Oil!
My 2008 tc burns through oil like crazy
Not all Toyota's burn oil, a few of there 4cylinder engines are more prone to it than others but my 99 4runner with 299k doesn't burn a drop. Honda's 4cylinders in my option are worse for oil consumption than any other. Ask any seasoned auto tech about the Honda k20/k24 engines those are the worst in my experience. The K series Honda's burn oil, stretch chains and jump timing. Any engine will burn oil, this is normal, the rate it burns it is related to proper oil change intervals (Not 7k miles) and design. Manufacturer's telling people to go 5-10k between oil changes is what's causing all this recent rash(last 10yrs)of oil burning 4 cyls. Just change the oil every 3-4k and 99% of the time you won't have any problems.
Great great video
Will this reduce the power of the engine? Or just that the oil will be reduced inside the engine?
My Civic also burns a couple quarts in between oil changes, they don't make them like they used to. (sigh)
nandoGdog my civic also burned oil.... sold it, bought a kia.... problem solved, will never buy honda or toyota again....
nandoGdog
I was a mechanic in the early eighties when they made them like they used too. In those days anything with over a hundred thousand miles was pretty much considered worn out.
That is why 100% synthetic motor oils are Superior and keep engine components clean and spotless. You get what you pay. Also, motor oils formulated using crude oil as base stoke oil, keep repair shops in business. Good job on the video.
repairvehicle Most of the full synthetic oils you can purchase right away is made from a crude oil base stock which is most likely group lll. Amsoil, redline, motul and a few others are true 100% synthetic oils. I know for a fact mobil 1 full synthetic oil has a higher percentage rate in evaporation compared to other full synthetics.
xdejablu3x , are you using amsoil oil?
repairvehicle No but I plan on doing so soon but I have a few friends who do use it and said the oil was awesome and didn't break down as fast compared to full synthetic oils like mobil 1, pennzoil, castrol, etc. The mobil 1 made almost 20 years ago used to be 100% synthetic but ever since the mobil 1 vs castrol case in the '90s, oil companies are allowed to sell oil as full synthetic oils because it uses synthetic additives. It sounds stupid and false advertisement but the US court system allows these companies to advertise as such. So the old mobil 1 your dad used, your uncle used, your grandpa used is not the same as what we use today so don't always go based of previous experiences and read the most current MSDS sheets for all oils to see what you're really buying. Now the new mobil 1 annual oil is something most of us can't seem to find info in to see if it is indeed a true group iv 100% synthetic oil.
not necessarily true. i drove a 2007 honda accord 2.4L to 409k miles before i retired it.
That's pretty good. What oils did you use for all your OCI's?
Good video and good images of the parts. Now a question. The new motors like my 2017 Hylander V6 call for 0W-20 oil. I think this is a bad idea. In my view they are only going to such light oil to reduce parasitic drag from higher oil pressures trying to squeeze out every more MPG. Might get a tiny bit of MPG but not good for long term engine life. I am running 5W-30.
No! Your bearing clearances are set for the lighter oil. Thicker oil will not flow properly into the bearings and the vvt. You'll kill the top end. The cam phasers are ran by oil pressure.
Does this include the 07 Yaris S Sedan?
My girl's is using a quart between 5k oil changes. It has 232,000 miles on it.
And, would full synthetic be better than the blend at this stage?
That looks like lack of maintenance to me.
mrkd283 no the main cause and only cause Is the reintroduction of unburned gases such as the pvc back in the engine It becomes a dark tar substance and gets stuck in all valve train components. This is the main souce. Every single manufacturer has this same setup. Although aftermarket has oil catch can that prevent this.
Toyota actually offers an updated piston set for these engines, is that enough for you ? BTW most of them (sold minus wrecked before this issue ones) have this problem.
Toyoat pistons have wrong size holes in ring grooves. But wont fix all engines.. selectively!
you may like to buy a 2007-2009 Camry with good maintenance records and experience yourself... we will wait for your comments then!If you so wish, I have all service receipts from Toyota dealer...
@@lop8828 does a multiport injection engine needs catch can?
All engines burn oil eventually rings, cylinder walls, valve stems all wear over time nothing lasts forever
I have a 2012 and I am noticing all of a sudden my car is eating my oil I had to fill it up with another court two different times within three weeks. Each time three weeks. I sure hope the warranty is still good!!! How are we supposed to know that’s usually I get a letter in the mail!!
Thats why 90s Camys are the Elite of the class they never die.
Those still burn oil sorry
Who is going to drive over and tell Scottie Kelmer?
His 94 Toyota Celica do not have this particular problem.
Toyota has a Good Will Warranty; Excessive Oil Consumption Test. If the vehicle is Under 100k Miles and under 10 Years Old. And Burns More than 1.5 Quarts per 1400 Miles, Toyota Will Rebuild the Engine! at No Cost! They replaced Pistons, Rings, Rods, Bearings etc. and only upsold me on a Water pump and Belt!
andrew13971 I wish I knew this a whole while ago.
they replace piston and sometimes the bearings. If wear is in the cylinder wall its a whole new short block. They do not replace rods in engines that only require the updated pistons
Yes they die after 100k...realy soon
Wish GM did that with the 2007 n up 5.3's. Mines been going through a quart every 1,000 miles since I bought it with 53,000 miles.
They should have extend the warranty indefinitely because of their crappy engine that eat oils, instead of only 10 years and poor notice to owners to sit out the time so that they don't have to fix all their cars.
Hi I bought a used rav4 2007 sports just realized it's burning oil I was not aware of this issue. Called Toyota but they told me service campaign is over, and the sweet lady on phone just advised me to check oil regularly to make sure my motor has oil at all time no mechanic is ready to change the piston they keep telling me just get a new motor and install it. I was wondering what parts I need to fix this problem I mean do I need specific part numbers or is there a kit I can buy I have a guy who is willing to work on the motor. Thanks for your help.
Thank you bro! 👍
Bad rings and piston toyota rebuilt my engine
Honda tried to sell his ring design to Toyota before he started his own company.
Toyota said they weren't good enough.
Laughing my ass off.
So, is there nothing that can be added to the gasoline tank to help the bottom piston ring and improve oil burning. I was thinking about buying a used prius, but then I saw this issue all over the internet.
When did Toyota resolve this issue? Do new Toyota's (2018) have this issue?
How about people don’t do oil changes on time? 115k miles on my ‘08 Yaris and no problem with burnt oil...
I've heard a number of folks say that this is the key to this problem not happening. Seems 5k is the magic interval to avoid it. Luckily I do 5k!
auxmike Not the same engine. Only this series is affected.
Your Yaris has a 1NZ-FE, hes talking about the 2AZ-FE engine in this video, totally different engine
only 137k miles and the piston looks like that? Damn, I've got 190k on my 2004 Taco 3.4L and the pistons look shiny compared to that. Someone's been using grocery store motor oil.
Tim Nelson. Watch the video again. He explains the problem.
William Ryan I know, I saw it. I was being sarcastic
Yeah Tim.My neighbor had her Scion do this. Wrecked the engine.She got 200k on the dial now.
my 2006/2007 toyota estima/previa/tarago acr50 2az-fe CVT burns 1.5L for every 5000km. is it the piston's problem too..? drill a bigger hole & that's it..?
I just bought a 2009 Toyota that has that oil burning situation would I have a warranty on this issue still
From not changing oil.
If you hate Toyotas then why are you watching a video on how to fix them??? if your watching this and hating on other peoples comments, you probably own one... (no reply)
You're the only dumbass in this conversation. I know exactly what i'm talking about. Experience like you've would never believe. Not responding to your tard theories any further.
Looks like somebody was using some crap oil from the 1950's from a junked car in that engine.
I always use Amsoil military spec synthetic oil in everything I own that has a engine in it.
I have a model year 2011 Camry 4 cylinder. Is this vehicle covered by the warranty extension? Will they rebuild my engine?
Should I fill engine to brim with diesel? Pour diesel down sparkplug holes?
They burn oil because you use apostrophes in inappropriate places.
Blasphemy, Toyota’s are perfect!
Excellent explanation. Thanks a lot!
Do you inspect the head and do you replace any parts of the head?
+Ves Andreev all components of the head are inspected for trueness and damage but none are replaced unless damaged by lack of lubrication. The head gasket is also obviously replaced.
Thanks a lot!
I'm asking, because I plan on buying used Scion tC and I may ask the dealer to perform this rebuild, but want to make sure you guys replace all parts in case the previous owner drove with little or no oil in the engine.
How much should this repair cost. Toyota said I missed to warranty extension time. What city are you in?
All Toyota buyers make out that Toyotas are perfect and never have a problem , quite an amazing myth that enables Toyota to sell billions of more dollars in cars , this car needed engine oil flush put through it at oil change time as it cleans around all the rings .
The only difference is: Toyota steps up to the plate with their errors. 10 year buyback of First Gen Tacomas for rusting frame issues (due to Dana not correctly coating). 10 year repairs for their 3.0 V6 head gasket issues (too bad Ford didn't do that for their 3.8 or GM with their LT1). 10 year repair for headights, master cylinder, EGR issues on their Prius.
never seen a toyota burn oil. that is just bad maintenance.
I only use Quaker State full synthetic motor oil, and change oil and filter every 2,000 miles. My Prius starting burning oil at 120,000 miles. It uses about 2 quarts per 2,000 miles. I ain't the only one. Toyotas burn oil.
Really? Honestly? Not. Some Toyota's do burn oil, especially late 2000's 4 cylinder....unfortunately Toyota usually doesn't warranty them unless they burn massive amounts. Here in Canada they will only cover warranty if it is burning in excess of 1 litre per 1000 kilometres. That's nasty. (1000km=620 miles)
However I've never owned a Toyota that was an oil burner. My '02 SuperCharged Tacoma with almost 300,000 miles doesn't use a drop and I drive the crap out of it. My '03 Corolla uses no oil either.
Honda, on the other hand.....well now they have issues. My '02 Civic will easily burn a gallon of oil between 5,000 kilometre oil changes(3,100 miles) however it does not show exhaust smoke, nor does it leak oil.
I have a 2000 corolla 163k, runs like a top but burns the hell out of oil, I'm just going to keep running it, too old and too many miles to qualify for a free toyota rebuild, not worth enough money for me to rebuild my self, it makes decent power still, so I'm just going to run it till it blows
I'd like to provide a by the way for this. When I purchased my scion, it would burn about 1 1/2 quarts per 5k miles. As many of you know, this made Scion the target of a class suit (I think, not sure about that part) and they offered to seal my motor and check consumption. My entire family bought XB's after I did (there's no similar car as cheap without feeling small inside) and my FIL took his to the dealer and had it sealed. In 1k miles, it burned a large fraction of a quart, and he thought he'd get a free rebuild, but they said that it was an acceptable amount.
Since my car finished its first oil change with just over two quarts drained (it's 4.3 total to fill), I've added oil incrementally since then (for ten years) and no issue. All four of these cars in the family have required topping off from time to time, but none of the four have had any mechanical problems (average of 9 years old and about 150k miles).
Bottom line. I don't think it's all fouling, all four of our cars did it from new. AND, check the engine oil from time to time and add, as my oil indicator light never came on when I had just over 2 qts of oil left out of the original 4.3. I have no clue when it does, once it runs out?
The water pump on these cars slobbers, too, but in the case of all four of ours, never fast enough to make it worth replacing. So far, I have added coolant once, but now that the car is out of warranty, the garage would love to change the water pump, showing me all the time the line of slobber on the hood. Purely cosmetic. Each time, I tell them I'm going to let it go because I like to gamble, and I think it'll be a thrill if it goes all at once.
Another by the way. Unscheduled maintenance on my XB in 10 years has been $150. (one taillight bulb, and the cost of two coils). Add a little more if you want to charge me for the extra oil I've added and the gallon of coolant I keep on hand. Probably another 75 bucks.
The car has tons of room to work around the engine, it wears tires like it knows how much is on each side (perfectly even), and has never had an alignment, even in pittsburgh where potholes are the rule rather than the exception.
yea toyota specs are 1k to 1200 miles per quart. mines doing 3-500 per quart so definitely an issue. also the warranty is 10 years or 150k miles. so im taking mine in
We have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE with 2.4L but we’ve never received a Recall for that bcoz we’ve moved from different address. It’s been loosing oil and I keep adding oil every week and a half.
Please handle bearings more carefully. I work in a factory that produces them, and the one at 1:55 would be considered NG atfer such contact.
All cars burn oil, specially American car
lol, now there is a generalization if i ever say one.
I wonder wether putting some strong cleaning agents (petrol/diesel/thinners/mmo/seafoam etc) directly into the cylinders and letting it sit overnight followed by a seafoam run (3rd in tank, 3rd in oil, 3rd in intake) and a good old italian tune up follwed by an oil change would cure this for a while.
Does the warranty apply also to chevys that have the toyota engines with the exact same problem?