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Faulty M18 Milwaukee Angle Grinder AG125 - Can it be Fixed?
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2022
- Here we have a faulty M18 Milwaukee angle grinder. Can it be fixed and used on the Rolls Royce or will it be destined for the parts bin.
Let's find out.
Merch is here!!!!! www.puddlt.com...
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Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince.
I would recommend to replace grease in gearbox, it should stopping more "smoother" and will add some rpms to motor 🙂
No it wont,absolute nonsense
Hi Vince, The circuit board monitors the battery voltage. There is a small microcontroller that talks to the battery over SMBUS and when the voltage is low or the current drawn is too high it disconnects the power via those two mosfets. I've just finished repairing a Milwaukee Spotlight, and uploaded the video on that one if you want to check it out as I know you like your Milwaukee Light too.
The one I just repaired is a M12 version, and its MUCH MUCH more powerful that the other one you already have!
The board in the grinder you were repairing looks very much the same board as the one in the Milwaukee Vacuum I repaired. If the Mosfets fail they would probably fail short and just send power to the device all the time as there's no over discharge protection in the Milwaukee batteries, it's all in the actual devices. The glue you are talking about on the board is conformal coating to keep moisture off the electronics. It's a bit of a nightmare when fixing their devices!
good job on the spotlight looks a lot more complicated than i thought it would be
@@joebloggs2532 Yeah who would have thought having what's pretty much a small computer to run a light!
Hey Vince watch all your videos your the main reason I got into repair but this one really helped. After watching it I fixed a angle grinder I had sitting up broken. I don't know much when it comes to motors but knew that was the problem. After you doing this and explaining it I was able to open it fix the magnets and it works again. Thanks saved me some money. Also still have some PSXs sitting around I can send if you would like to take a look at them great piece of Sony history.
What brand was it 😀
Those cut outs in the motor are to balance it properly, it’s done on anything that spins, like propeller blades, turbine’s etc, it’s like adding those weights to your car tires
Ohhh of course, thanks Gower that makes complete sense as I suppose the manufacturing process and the winding of the copper will be slightly varied on each one, so they are balanced afterwards. Nice one 👌👍
When is part 22 of fixing the rolls royce coming
@@promasterthegamer523 Probably mid week. Maybe Wednesday👍
One time, I have fixed a Dewalt hammer drill, by just cleaning the collector(the copper contacts on the rotor) gaps out of metal dust. Initially it was smoking a lot. I would go back and clean up those gaps on that grinder. You can measure those collector contacts between each other for resistance.
If you store opened superglue in your freezer it will last much longer. Water is what causes superglue to harden. Opened glue reacts to moisture in the air. The freezer prevents that.
Vince, I've watched loads of your content. I marvel at your bravery in taking apart springs as the fly everywhere on me.
But I burst out laughing when you had the magnets all cleaned and the super glue in place. When you went to place it is darted off and stuck to the metal in the wrong place probably splashing super glue. I was completely immersed in that part of the task as I love electrical motors.
This would definitely have happened to me too. I question your Irish heritage, because I would have bounced it off the table or at least have used a profanity!!😂😂
Great video, thank you for the surprise humour.
What a lucky lad! Brushed! The worst case if the electronics let go would be to just wire it up directly with both a regular and thermal fuse! (and possibly a Zener-referenced voltage cut-off with some MOSFETs for low battery shutdown)
You could have wiggled the bearings to check for wear. And slip on some heatshrink tubing on the rear one for cushion! And re-greased the gears. As for gluing the magnets...the next time they come undone (if they will because regular superglue may not hold up with the heat) use a high-temperature variant or a high temperature epoxy. When you would use epoxy it would be a good idea to fill the gaps between the magnets!
I have one of these grinders that, has been back under warranty 3 times. The rear bearing keeps failing and they just replace the whole body. Eventually the 5 year warranty will run out so this is good info 👍
Where I live, when they have to replace a part (or the whole thing), the warranty resets to zero on that part.
I.E. lets say you have an 18 month warranty on a thing, and a part fails within those 18 months. That new part is covered for an aditional 18 months from when its installed.
Companies like Apple do *NOT* like that right/law. But what're they gonna do, loose out on a market worth a few billion Euros?
I think not.
Its one of the *Very* few cases where company greed kinda works out in the consumers' favor.
@@The_Keeper Sounds good to me, I'm in Australia and am pretty sure they don't do that here. There was some talk that they would replace it after 3 claims but when it came to it they just replaced the case again.
Gentlemen! Welcome to the shop!
Keep up the good work Vince and, as always, stay safe.
Another successfull fix. Well done!
Hey Vince. Love your videos. I lived in the UK when I was a kid. Best wishes from the US.
Hi Vince. Great video. I think the failure analysis on this one is quite interesting. I wonder if the root cause was that that tiny bearing started to fail, got hot, melted the plastic and caused the motor to fail. In which case I'd be concerned a bearing replacement might have been needed. I would have also probably built the plastic up around with glue/ baking soda because now you've glued the case together which is probably going to be a nightmare if you want to service it/ change the bearing down the line.
Also, a nice tip I picked up over the years from a pro was that angle grinders don't need the tool to put a new disk on. Because of the rotation and the direction of the threads, there is no chance the nut will come off like you feared near the end. When changing the disc on an angle grinder, you can literally hand tighten the nut down, press the brake, and then twist the disc until it nips up - that's all it takes. Then when you're done, you can put on the brake and then counter-clockwise the disc by hand to take it off. This way you don't have to worry about over tightening or losing your tool. :)
Cheers Luke, that is reassuring to know about the tightening, it always worried me the nut or the disc flying off at 1000s of RPM. I have been using it lots which you will see on the next Rolls video so if or once it fails again, I can see if there is excessive play in the bearing. I think the superglue will just crack once the force of opening is on it 👍👍
i watched the whole video, i love the logical thinking AND the comical bonding. Cheers mate
I think I have become addicted to your videos.. love them. keep it up !
You fix things very well you take the time to do it. You are very good with your hands I enjoy all your videos I appreciate everything that you show us Thank you're Family for you taking the time out to show us You and your family Have a very blessed day Enjoy your rest of your day I appreciate all the video Thank you so much for Share your video with us You and your family stay safe God good all the time I give you 50 million thumbs up
It's a chicken and the egg thing again, what failed first? I'm placing my bet on the little bearing (which still needs to be replaced) failing 1st either a tight spot / dirt ingress or something causing the bearing to heat up then the motor shaft was off centre causing it to catch the magnets. Luckily not all the smoke escaped and there was enough smoke left for it to work. Good fix and you've got the patience of a saint, I would have thrown it in the bin seeing those magnets like that I must learn to be more positive in the future..
This was a great video to watch, keep them coming Vince
Great job Vince and thankfully you managed to sneak in the IPA on this one
🤣👍
Cool fix. Tools are expensive equipment, so well worth checking if they can be fixed rather than just buy a new one straight away.
Totally agree with that one. I've probably saved a fortune with all the Milwaukee stuff I've fixed.
There is a third option, repair the unit with new parts. New housing, new magnet ring and new bearing. Can be an affordable and safe option using power tools like these.
Milwaukee should have put plastic spacers between the magnets then they could not have slipped when or if the glue gave up the ghost
I was thinking that also, but then remembered the odd type of screw at the start of the video. Someone might have already been in there in the past, re-glued the magnets a mm off perfect and not refit the plastic spacers because they wouldn't fit. Then it lasted until now when it needed them gluing again.
@@jonnyroberts225 I'm not sure. Having watched a lot of videos of Milwaukee hand tools and similar faults in a lot of their products I would not buy them. To many coincidence
New case and bearings and Bob your uncle , well done ! Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺 👍
I feel terrible for laughing at the glue bit!! (sorta!) Great work dude!
It is my nemesis 😂👍
@@Mymatevince Well next time don't put the superglue on the magnet but on the place you want the magnet glue on. Also little plastic spacers would help a bit 😀
I wonder why didn't the manufacturer put (embed) the magnet in a groove in to the motor's body. Cost saving? 😀
Hi Vince. A new clam shell would hold the bearings again properly. But I would also replace the bearings.
The glue won’t hold for too long as the heat will loosen and soften the glue.
Another very interesting fix Vince, I must admit the super glue part did make me laugh!
Well done Vince. I'm slightly concerned how the glue will hold up if the device is used under duress or builds up heat. So please be careful. That being said, I like the troubleshooting on this one and the end result speaks for itself.
Thank you Shawn, I will do. You will see it in use on the next part of the Rolls Royce which I will release today over on Patreon. I am wondering if it was to fail in USE would it just slow down and become extremely noisy rather than anything spectacular happening????
@@Mymatevince if i had to guess, it would just jam up again. I had a garden/yard edger that used a similar motor design. The small roller skate style bearing at the bottom end was the cause of the slop that made the neodymium magnets in the stator and the rotor inside completely foul up. I replaced the bearing and realigned the magnets, but did not glue anything down. It eventually ended up failing again. The windings on the rotor actually fouled up the second failure when they came in contact with the magnets in the stator. However, I did not superglue the magnets down like you did. I do know that superglue will break down under repeat high temperature. Hence my caution. The secomd time my edger failed I believe it was because the blade came in contact with a concrete walkway while edging the side of my yard. It must have been just enough duress to cause the replacement small roller skate bearing to break again. This was also a cheaper product overall, non-name brand. So possibly just not designed to take much impact.
Thanks Shawn, maybe I will use it in shorter bursts of a few minutes at a time, that may keep the heat down 👌
@@Mymatevince I have a vested interest in how it continues to operate over time. In my head I'm wondering if I had glued anything down would that have made enough difference 🤣. That being said the device I worked on and yours is not an exact apples to apples comparison. Sounds like you're taking a safe approach.
@@Mymatevince if it ever stops working again you can most likely soak the part in ipa to remove the superglue.
Nice fix Vince 👍
That's was very funny, thanks for the laugh sticking those magnets🤣
Well Done Vince, great fix. I'm a big Milwaukee fan so I really enjoyed that video. Thanks mate. Mick 👍👌 🍻
Glad I'm not the only Milwaukee fan :) .. I actually have an actual Milwaukee fan to repair... not got round to that one yet tho.
@@BuyitFixit Didn't know Milwaukee made a fan. Something else I'll have to buy 👍😄
@@MikeK-NIreland Yeah. I got it off Ebay spares or repairs. Done a fair few Milwaukee things...
1st time watcher. Awesome video! Carry on.
You were correct really because years ago they called them Bushes but now they're called Brushes for some reason
They did to the grinder what I did which was overheat the thing to where the "glue" holding the magnets weakened and the magnets moved.
Awesome! Another tool fixed and back in work :D
Hey hey, well done! Be careful cutting near the fuel tank.
Well Done Vince 😎
Nice Save cool to see it working
I think the magnets came off first. Makes the most sense to me.
this is the best video i ever saw in my life wow
The smell is the give-away. First thing to check is the motor. I guess the sequence would have been, bearings lacking lubrication, dry out and overheat the outer of the bearing would start to turn causing the housing to wear, this in turn would cause the armature to move laterally coming into contact with the magnets causing grinding, (metal dust) and loading up the motor further eventually the magnets coming loose.
nice repair, My gate motor did the same thing I used qbond (super glue) and the fill powder between the magnets this was more than 9 months ago and is still holding up. I think the wear at the bearings was from overheating that caused the magnets to come loose and jammed the tool
Vince the movement is because the top bearing isn't in place you shouldn't super glue the bottom bearing it was fine that tiny bit of play doesn't matter the reason it moves at the top is there was nothing supporting the top of the motor that is why the bearing is there and you need the make sure the gears in the gear case mesh properly when putting it back together if you just smash them together they might bind and not want to move
Sodium bicarbonate with superglue in layers will make a super strong crystalized material ideal for angle grinder. You can build it layer by layer and it makes it stronger and stronger. One layer of superglue, one layer of Sodium bicarbonate. You should try it. It's 20-30 times stronger than pure super glue.
awesome fix, Vince. that glue'ing moment made me laugh, thank you for that. 🤣
Great fix and a free angle grinder well done.
Hi Vince, nice fix and a win.
Regarding the magnets, I've seen already some people fixing the loose magnets. The glue seem to be loosing its grip over time and they move because of the tool's vibration.
BTW, next time you get superglue on stuff - just drown it in IPA. It will dissolve. Alternative - acetone and for sensitive stuff olive oil (let it soak in to the glue, it will soften up).
ANd for the missing plastic - remember the superglue + baking soda method, build it up and file down as needed to restore the shape.
Hehe you can also make a video like - 100 hours of use later.
Thanks Marcel, maybe it was the magnets that failed first then causing the bearing to overheat as the secondary fault. Cheers mate for the useful tips as always 👍 👌
@@Mymatevince I think that the magnets failed first as they all were stuck together and not one on each still glued on one. Given the direction of the shaft rotation. 👍
@@marcellipovsky8222 A very valid point Marcel. I guess that proves the original culprit. Well done 👏👍
Just another great repair video and you saved it from the bin keep up your good work weather it be your Rolls Royce or on this channel.
great video :) fantastic for the fault finding side of things :) and the comedy when all the glue went Pete tong lol :)
Man, you had me panicking when the magnet flew out of your hand with the glue! 😯
Well done ....My thoughts are the magnets failed due to prolonged use, sending the shaft out of alignment, damaging the casing. Then motor wouldn't restart due to being stuck to the three magnets, overloading the mosfets, causing the reported smoke.
Very interesting Lee, yes that all makes sense about the overloading. Nice one 👌
It is just what caused it, the magnets sliding or did the magnets slid because the bearing overheated through prolonged use causing it to misalign in the plastic casing. If that part of the case had a metal insert maybe this fault wouldn't have occurred 👍👍👍
nice fix , ive had that happen to me when using an angle grinder the magnets disloge and sound awfull , i just glue them back with a high temp adhesive , i think the super glue will hold if you use it in short burst , but long period i think the magnets will disloge again
Isn't the bearing now super-glued to both halves of the case? That may be a problem when taking the case apart again.
Get an adjustable face pin tool, they fit all the nuts.
I use a quick change nut on my small grinder, has a fold out tab. Works really well. Size is M14.
look at the witness mark at 21:14 the magnet has shifted. They should be evenly spaced around the stator ring.
Brilliant job Vince, very well done!!! 👌
Good job mate 👍
Nice, BOLTR with My Mate Vince!
HA! I might AVE known!
About the only thing I've seen on this channel worth fixing. ;)
He also fixed a Milwaukee Radio (that's actually what inspired me to start my own channel fixing such things).
Great video Vince. I think that plastic bearing housing inside the case has worn and caused just enough movement for the rotor to make contact with the magnets resulting in the magnets becoming dislodged.
Agreed. Bearing overheated, heat deformed the plastic bearing cradle, centerline of motor went eccentric allowing the windings to scrub the magnets and knock them out of place. I'd try to rebuild the cradle with as much filler as possible and re-lubricate that little bearing.
You can make a tool for one of these quite easily. Straight peice of metal and holes slightly smaller than the pins by 0.1mm, taper the pin ends and forge them in under pressure.
You can weld them but not necessary.
Keep those magnets well clear of your watch Vince!
Godspeed to the Queen! Long Live the King!
107% Brit :) "....my glue is in Rolls-royce...."
😂👍
That's the second device I've seen where magnets have come unstuck. The other was a bicycle dynamo thing on the eevblog channel.
Thanks, Vince. Fascinating as always :)
New tool joins the Rolls Royce fix tool team!
It probably was dropped or overheated causing the magnets to come unglued. I have fixed a few motors by glueing back the magnets
Mate the super glue part was absolutely great. I've recently had a similar super glue issue, so certainly feel your pain. When next in poundland check the superglue section. There is a packet which is similar to yrs but one tube is a debonder. This gets super glue off like water, might be useful for the tweezers. Cant go wrong for a quid 👍
Agreed, a no brained for a quid. I will check it out next time I'm in town👍
@@Mymatevince If you have Acetone on hand, that dissolves Super-Glue as well.
Nailpolish remover works as well, because it usually contains Acetone.
So, in a pinch, ask the "lady of the house" if she has any on hand. No pun intended...
It'll aparently take about 5-10 minutes, but then it should come right off
Might suggest some love( grease ) to the bearings and gearbox....and go back and add epoxy to build up those bearing mounts
Like the old times when you weren't a car mechanic 😄
Expertly done Vince =D I agree with your thoughts, the Magnets moved, shifting the centre point and causing it to pull to one side more as it rotates - affecting the platic pivot point, and also causing the wear of the magnets as it rubbed (hence all the fillings inside). Wonderful video =D LMFAO @ everything sticking btw!!! I would have used expoxy (as you said later) and for that bearing, perhaps to expand its size - heat shrink around it? Assuming its outer edge doesnt rotate...
Outer edge doesn't rotate from what I can see, that is great idea about the heat shrink, really good! You will see the grinder in use on the next Rolls vid 😂 Thanks Chris 👍
I think it was the other way around. Plastic broke letting the axle of the winding shift its position and, then, hitting the magnets making them "unglue" from the housing.
@@dexter2811 What would have been putting torque on the plastic though? It's a lot more plausible that the magnets broke free first and then that caused torque on the shaft which broke the bearing mount.
Considering the fact that there is sometimes an off-angle force applied when people do things like clean up welds with a grinder... I suspect it wore the plastic out and then the magnets followed. We may never know as long as this fix holds up!
awesome repair Vince im thinking the grinder was hammered for a while maybe replace the bearing were the case deformed
Nice repair as always :), add grease btw
It would have been the magnets moved, and then heated up the plastic by the bearing in the handle which in turn melted that, and then allowed the grinder to go off center even more, and that is why Robert reported smoke was the plastic in the handle heating up, but usally find 3 magnets with negative charge and 1 magnet with positive charge, the 1 magnet is the one that energizes the tool, and the 3 sort of used for centering, as for direction of replacing the magnets, then not as important, because you weren't changing the polarity of the magnets, the only difference with what you done is maybe the back of the magnets weren't quite as warn as the end closest to the head gear. or maybe more warn, so in turn could have helped or hindered the centering force of the 3 magnets, but that is all that would have happened, as the magnets should still give off equal force right the way across them.
and that is why the motor was only sticking to one side of the motor rather than both sides. is because the magnet on the opposite side is a repelling magnet. and the reason the motor wouldn't turn was you had the force of 3 magnets all pushing the motor away from them and very close together and 1 magnet saying come here motor so all 4 magnets were forcing the motor to the one that attracts the motor, and that is why the motor magnets are fairly important to be specific distances from eachother. as well as to help balance the motor into the centre.
The HAHA gets me every time
Vince the steel dust is from grinding. The standard problem with angle grinders.
Are you keeping a running total on the hours you are spending on the Rolls? It would just be interesting to show the hours spent on each problem how restoring cars are done for love not in many instances for profit.
Nothing that a little bit of super glue couldn't fix! Interesting that Loctite calls it Super Glue in other coutries. In Brazil the same glue is named Super Bonder.
Two suggestions! Use Magnetic field viewing film to view and align the magnets and use JB Weld two part epoxy. A two part epoxy has a lower set-up time and (in my opinion) is better in this application. Scuff up the bonding surface first.
I have never heard of magnetic field viewing film but a quick search on Google brings up some YT vids. Thanks Gary, that's my thing learnt for today. Nice one 👍
Pretty sure the polarity of the magnets is perpendicular to the "bending" so they work equally in both the sides you can use them and you can't go wrong
Epoxy Steel JB weld Putty
Really should have a new case. Good fix.
Well done, great fix. I knew that those magnets were not meant to be all on one side. Has to be evenly balanced for it to spin round. Also guessed that something in battery protection circuit would stop you checking the voltage. Where have I learnt this? I think from your videos. Would have been interested to see what happened with the good battery. You might have got some sound, maybe even smoke.
Thanks Paul, I think it might have been the B&O portable speaker video where the battery wasn't releasing its voltage until 2 pins were shorted. Yeah, I wish I had worked out the battery issue before filming to see the original fault condition 👍
You can test continuity pretty easy on the windings of the armature. The brushes opposite of each other usually are the ones to energize a coil on the armature. So if you figure out which bars on the commutator (the copper bars next to that one bearing on the end) you can use the continuity test on your meter to see if any of them are shorted out. Magic smoke can come from those coils if they short out. My dad used to own a electric motor repair shop and we used to see all kind of spectacular failures, especially on the larger motors that operate draw bridges.
Don't worry about the case epoxy the magnets in place and put it together and see how it runs if it runs, 5 minute epoxy would have been better also super glue let's loose with heat so hopefully it don't get to hot
I would say the armature got pretty hot from the colour of it, this also heated the field and glue holding the magnets causing them to come loose.
This would also mean the commutator and the shaft got hot melting the case where the bearing is mounted causing the excess play.
I guess time will tell if that super glue withstands the heat generated when the grinder is under prolonged load.
Could be a little more difficult removing the clamshell case now the outer race of the bearing is glued to either side of it.
The flutes machined into the armature are to balanced it as it is spinning at thousands of revolutions per minute. If imbalanced it would destroy itself pretty quickly.
Great fix as always Vince, at least now it can be used again and not just thrown away.
Thanks MM, someone else mentioned the flutes, never noticed it before on other motors, nice way to balance them. Hopefully you will see it in use in the next episode of the Rolls. I'm only going to use in short bursts of a few minutes as I am not overly confident on the superglue staying put. I do like it though, it is definitely quieter in use which is useful given the location of the car 👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince I look forward to seeing it in action on the Rolls. If they do come loose you have lost nothing & can epoxy them back in as I would guess it will just jam up again and you will know to stop using it.
Looks like you have your work cut out (sorry I had to) in the bodywork department so should come in handy.
@@APSuk2 Oh don't! The more I look the more I find. I find something horrible at the beginning of part 23. A real proper pain that I am dreading working on! But at least the Milwaukee can be used for it 😂👍
@@Mymatevince Yeah I kinda knew when I first saw it that it was a can of worms but like you say it a learning experience for you.
I have done it myself with projects over the years you get sentimental about the vehicle due to the amount of hours of work you have put into it and that not finishing it seems like a crime.
Things soon start to get expensive especially on a Rolls but on any car it is easy to spend £100 even on the basic jobs so when you start looking at bodywork or hydraulic systems that £100 does not go far.
I am sure it will be an interesting watch never the less Vince.
Adam
@@APSuk2 Yeah, I underestimated the price of parts. I naively thought given the cheapish price of these cars 2nd hand even in good condition, that the parts price would be fair. I now know that the reason these are the cheapish price is because of the expensive parts price. At least the used eBay prices are doable 👍👍👍
Any reason why the magnets ain't spot welded onto the cylinder? if it was a cheap model I could understand, but seems like something that's always designed to fail.??
I can't believe you actually fixed that. I had a Makita drill and the magnets came off after a small drop and I thought it was unfixable and tossed it 😭
33:00 They make different kinds of superglue IE Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue which have different dry times including accelerators.... the thicker the glue the slower the dry time.
Great vido again! i admire your perseverance! And yes, both magnets where equally comical 😀Strange to put a bearing in a plastic casing Milwaukee! What has happend to your end tune? It was verry good! Gr. Adam
Ill stick to doing electronics , and not driving the neighbours crazy using bloody angle grinders . My dad had an accident with one of these things and lost 3 fingers when a disc exploded , ill never use one , they sound absolutely horrendous also, i like abit of peace and quiet these days .
One of the worst tools Milwaukee makes.. mine broke within 7 months of buying it. They replaced it under warranty.. the new one lasted 4 months.. my $40 corded Royobi is still going strong after 2.5 years
That was brilliant. Please keep up the great work you are doing. Both the "fix its" and the RR restoration.
Very interesting...my m18 is brand spanking new and the gear box is get very hot . Using it to grind small nails . Very small light work..5 minutes. It's hot.. should I Greece the gears inside ?
My theory is that it had a slight drop plus wear but expoxy for long term use vince
Order of failure. Bpabs = plastic bearing mount got hot( brush end of rotor) maybe bearing tight...melted then .. moved...rotor clipped magnet then all follows... But probally heavy use melted bearing housing
Great video as usual Vince but I can't lie I do love a traditional my mate vince moment like 29:42 😂
😂👌
@@Mymatevince I was watching that part and thinking "how is he going to slide those magnets back in place, without the glue getting everywhere? I guess he has some nifty method".
My next thought was "Oh. He isn't, and he hasn't."
I think the rotor got jammed when the magnets dislodged from their original position.
When you were gluing the magnets back in, I was expecting another shoutout to the MMVM again, I have never seen you move so fast 😂
Nice fix, I think the motor got hot, magnets slipped and it was thrown out of kilter and jammed
Me think it could have been a good idea to make some kind of spacers before trying to glue the magnets...;)
wonder if one of the shaft bearings on the motor went bad casuing wobble and then the rotor came into contact with the stator
If the plastic is damaged, would I cover the ball bearing near the collector with heat-shrinkable foil?
metal on the magnets, on a tool used to turn metal into filings? wherever could it come from?
where the small bearing sits in the case i would have built back up with resin..then when dry used a dremel to shape & get a good tight fit...