Oh yeah James sent me here. He sent the boards it to you smart guy. Good tip on the adhesive. OK I am an old school Electronics guy. Like you said it can be done with the basic tools, remember to keep the heat down and I have a solder sucker as well. Thanks Gary. You have all the toys :-(
After watching James' generator repair I was a bit concerned regarding the diodes. He measured about 120V at the output of this board feeding into the rotor with about 33 ohms, which results in just shy of 4 amps of current, and that was under partial load. This is already about the maximum the diodes can handle continuously, two RL205-T in parallel, each rated for 2 amps. The 1N400x series is only rated at 1A, so these will probably get fried pretty fast. I hope the manufacturer of the aftermarket board also used 2A (or more) rated diodes, personally I would have gone for 1N5407 or similar. However, it seems the diodes held up pretty well, considering the board must have seen some heat during its life. Keep up the good work! It would hurt to see a working machine being scrapped because of one cheap component.
Moffa. The rotor is powered by 24VDC, not 120VAC. So the current is significantly less than 4 amps, more like less than 1 amp. Bank of diodes are more than adequate.
Thank you for watching! Great to be able to have the opportunity to help him out. Generators are my hobby as well though I don't get to repair as many as he does.
Thanks for the informative and well done video. FYI I used your link for the desoldering gun, the 808 is out of stock and DISCONTINUED it also looked like many spare parts for it also suffered the same fate. You might look to see what they still have if you might need spare parts one day.
Good work and good advice concerning the silicone adhesive. You might consider using a ESD safe soldering iron when working on PCBs, Hakko makes a bunch, pricey but powerful for big pads and you can control temps a little better. I hope to see James attempting this kind of repair eventually. Both of you produce excellent work.
I do have those ESD tools actually, a D888 workstation with pencil iron with multiple tip types and the FX8804-2 hot tweezers. Was a bit lazy and used the Weller instead
with a desoldering gun,you're supposed to use a tip large enough to go over the component lead. they're generally for small-signal components. for big electrolytics,use a 30-40w iron and a solder-vac tool or solder wick.
Any thoughts on "upgrading" to higher-rated rectifiers and eliminating the parallel diodes? There must be better components available now vs. when that board was designed. Not to mention that parallel rectifier diodes sounds like a bad idea.
i have seen generators using a bridge rectifier and an electrolytic capacitor instead of the diode rectifier board with parallel diodes. There is also an upgrade design diode board that also uses single diodes of a higher value because the parallel diodes was noted as a possible issue.
Gary, I've got a Powermate 0062975 AVR that has stopped working. It has a couple of bulged electrolytic caps and a couple of cracked disc caps. Do you re-work those or do I need to find a new-old-stock board?
I just found the schematic for the superseded part# 0065649SRV the newer version. The older version I have too. I have not rebuilt one of these before but it looks straight forward. Only kicker is I don't have a way to test it as I do not have a generator that uses it or be able to bench test. Email me and we can discuss the cost.
The caps will not have a different voltages, max voltage is the peak value of the sine wave coming in less the diodes .7 drops, they will have a different charge or Q, either one should work fine a filter cap besides the physical size. Q = VxC
Yes it was simply a size difference to fit into the end bell of the generator. That's always the challenge to match up the physical sizes and matching the specs
Funny how they used 8 diodes instead of 4, just used each pair in parallel, I guess one bigger diode cost more than two small ones. Looks like the small cap is a bit bloated, maybe I'm wrong, I know those don't last long in indoor electronics, being in a hot generator is way worse.
Hello, I hope you see this question and can help me. I have almost the exact generator except mine doesn’t have this plate. Instead it came with a small square diode bridge and a separate capacitor. The parts manual says the capacitor is a 130uf 200v I live in a small town in Mexico and only Amazon is reliable for ordering parts. I can’t find this exact capacitor but did find something close. It says 140-150uf 250v. Do you think this would work? Thank you.
It should work although your output voltage is going to be slightly different. The tolerance of the capacitor is going to really be a factor here. Typically 20%. The other issue too is the physical size it needs to be short enough to clear the inside cavity otherwise the board will not mount properly.
@@Bassguitarist1985 my OEM capacitor is physically larger as it is not mounted on a board. It just has two electrical connectors with two wires going to a separate little diode bridge box. I don’t think there is a way to send you a picture.
@@Bassguitarist1985 update, I was able to find a new OEM capacitor and bridge rectifier on EBay. I am having it delivered to our daughter in Texas and my wife will be there in two weeks and will bring back to Mexico. I noticed that when you shake the old capacitor it feels like whatever is inside rattling around. Probably bad?
Since the E-cap is 470mfd @ 200 volts and it failed, I'm surprised you didn't install one for perhaps 350 volts instead. Perhaps it would hold up better?
200vdc is more than adequate for the exciter circuit. It doesn't run at full mains voltage. In this case the cap is simply old/dried out. The other issue is finding a cap in the physical dimensions (height, width, lead spacing) to fit inside the end bell cover of the machine.
@@Bassguitarist1985 Just thinking aloud, but there seems to be enough space to lay a cap down instead of end-mounting it if/when the low-profile versions go unobtanium. And thanks for helping James 👍👍
@@P_RO_ the cap has snap in axial leads, not long enough to lay the cap down unfortunately. Good thought though! Wait till my next video when I recap my tube bass amp!
@@Bassguitarist1985 An equivalent with longer leads might be available or you could extend them- I haven't looked. And I wish I still had my 50 watt Fender Bassman- I could almost take a vacation on what they sell for now. Age made me tone-deaf so I sold everything long ago 😥
@@P_RO_ bit of a dangerous amp to work on too if it isnt modded with bleed resistors. For the caps it was easy to figure out the replacement. Its knowing what to look for
Thanks Gary for helping me out!
Anytime! Looking forward to watching your video!
Oh yeah James sent me here. He sent the boards it to you smart guy. Good tip on the adhesive. OK I am an old school Electronics guy. Like you said it can be done with the basic tools, remember to keep the heat down and I have a solder sucker as well. Thanks Gary. You have all the toys :-(
Haha gotta have all the toys! Thank you for watching!
@@Bassguitarist1985 Got it (the reply)
After watching James' generator repair I was a bit concerned regarding the diodes. He measured about 120V at the output of this board feeding into the rotor with about 33 ohms, which results in just shy of 4 amps of current, and that was under partial load. This is already about the maximum the diodes can handle continuously, two RL205-T in parallel, each rated for 2 amps. The 1N400x series is only rated at 1A, so these will probably get fried pretty fast. I hope the manufacturer of the aftermarket board also used 2A (or more) rated diodes, personally I would have gone for 1N5407 or similar.
However, it seems the diodes held up pretty well, considering the board must have seen some heat during its life.
Keep up the good work! It would hurt to see a working machine being scrapped because of one cheap component.
Moffa. The rotor is powered by 24VDC, not 120VAC. So the current is significantly less than 4 amps, more like less than 1 amp. Bank of diodes are more than adequate.
Thank you for providing the links. Some of us do not have your skill set but with great explanations and links, we can try to fix our own stuff.
You are welcome!
thanks for letting us know that we can accomplish the same job with more common tools.
You are very welcome! It can be done, just takes more time and care.
Dunno why this was recommended to me, but, glad it was :)
4.21.22 Thanks for making the video. Learned something.
Neat work. Nice watching you help James out.
Thank you for watching! Great to be able to have the opportunity to help him out. Generators are my hobby as well though I don't get to repair as many as he does.
Thanks for the informative and well done video. FYI I used your link for the desoldering gun, the 808 is out of stock and DISCONTINUED it also looked like many spare parts for it also suffered the same fate. You might look to see what they still have if you might need spare parts one day.
Thank you! Yes got a few spare heating elements, the tips are standard too. SRA Soldering is a great company to grab these tools too
Good work and good advice concerning the silicone adhesive. You might consider using a ESD safe soldering iron when working on PCBs, Hakko makes a bunch, pricey but powerful for big pads and you can control temps a little better.
I hope to see James attempting this kind of repair eventually.
Both of you produce excellent work.
I do have those ESD tools actually, a D888 workstation with pencil iron with multiple tip types and the FX8804-2 hot tweezers. Was a bit lazy and used the Weller instead
That repair is now on Jame's pages.
with a desoldering gun,you're supposed to use a tip large enough to go over the component lead. they're generally for small-signal components. for big electrolytics,use a 30-40w iron and a solder-vac tool or solder wick.
@@JayWye52 I have the larger tips for the hakko desolder gun now. Should have gotten them sooner. Thank you for watching.
Very interesting and instructive, thank you.
Thank you for watching and supporting the channel
Thank you for watching and supporting the channel
Good Stuff Gary!
Thank you!
Hakko 808 very nice!!!
Yeah it is discontinued however it is one of the best tools I've ever purchased for electronics.
the glue is just old industrial hot glue. it's there to keep vibration from cracking the solder joints.
BTW,there's low-temp hobby hot glue ,and high temp hot glue. most people are likely to have only the low-temp glue sticks and gun.
check the date code on the cap,and you'll have a good idea of how old the assembly is.
well done. thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Nice video, can you use urethane for sealing the caps to the board? Thanks
Urethane acrylates yes
Any thoughts on "upgrading" to higher-rated rectifiers and eliminating the parallel diodes? There must be better components available now vs. when that board was designed. Not to mention that parallel rectifier diodes sounds like a bad idea.
No need. 33 ohm stator at 24vdc is less than 1 amp. Bank of 8 diodes is well sized for the given application.
i have seen generators using a bridge rectifier and an electrolytic capacitor instead of the diode rectifier board with parallel diodes. There is also an upgrade design diode board that also uses single diodes of a higher value because the parallel diodes was noted as a possible issue.
Great video! Great information
Thank you!
Gary, I've got a Powermate 0062975 AVR that has stopped working. It has a couple of bulged electrolytic caps and a couple of cracked disc caps. Do you re-work those or do I need to find a new-old-stock board?
I just found the schematic for the superseded part# 0065649SRV the newer version. The older version I have too. I have not rebuilt one of these before but it looks straight forward. Only kicker is I don't have a way to test it as I do not have a generator that uses it or be able to bench test. Email me and we can discuss the cost.
I emailed you early this morning, thanks!
What value did the faulty capacitor measure once it was out of the circuit? Just curious!
Actually didn't measure sorry! James was going to follow up on that as i sent the old caps back to him
Sub to you . i enjoyed your video. came over from James Condon videos.
Thank you for watching and support!
New subscriber, James sent me here
Thank you for watching and supporting my channel!
The caps will not have a different voltages, max voltage is the peak value of the sine wave coming in less the diodes .7 drops, they will have a different charge or Q, either one should work fine a filter cap besides the physical size. Q = VxC
Yes it was simply a size difference to fit into the end bell of the generator. That's always the challenge to match up the physical sizes and matching the specs
Funny how they used 8 diodes instead of 4, just used each pair in parallel, I guess one bigger diode cost more than two small ones. Looks like the small cap is a bit bloated, maybe I'm wrong, I know those don't last long in indoor electronics, being in a hot generator is way worse.
I signed up. Great video
Thank you kindly!
Hello,
I hope you see this question and can help me. I have almost the exact generator except mine doesn’t have this plate. Instead it came with a small square diode bridge and a separate capacitor. The parts manual says the capacitor is a 130uf 200v I live in a small town in Mexico and only Amazon is reliable for ordering parts. I can’t find this exact capacitor but did find something close. It says 140-150uf 250v. Do you think this would work? Thank you.
It should work although your output voltage is going to be slightly different. The tolerance of the capacitor is going to really be a factor here. Typically 20%. The other issue too is the physical size it needs to be short enough to clear the inside cavity otherwise the board will not mount properly.
@@Bassguitarist1985 my OEM capacitor is physically larger as it is not mounted on a board. It just has two electrical connectors with two wires going to a separate little diode bridge box. I don’t think there is a way to send you a picture.
@@Bassguitarist1985 update, I was able to find a new OEM capacitor and bridge rectifier on EBay. I am having it delivered to our daughter in Texas and my wife will be there in two weeks and will bring back to Mexico. I noticed that when you shake the old capacitor it feels like whatever is inside rattling around. Probably bad?
@@BajaBCS most definitely. Caps shouldn't sound like they have something rattling inside
Brown adhesive gets removed. Too many instances of it turning conductive, and corrosive.
Since the E-cap is 470mfd @ 200 volts and it failed, I'm surprised you didn't install one for perhaps 350 volts instead. Perhaps it would hold up better?
200vdc is more than adequate for the exciter circuit. It doesn't run at full mains voltage. In this case the cap is simply old/dried out. The other issue is finding a cap in the physical dimensions (height, width, lead spacing) to fit inside the end bell cover of the machine.
@@Bassguitarist1985 Just thinking aloud, but there seems to be enough space to lay a cap down instead of end-mounting it if/when the low-profile versions go unobtanium. And thanks for helping James 👍👍
@@P_RO_ the cap has snap in axial leads, not long enough to lay the cap down unfortunately. Good thought though! Wait till my next video when I recap my tube bass amp!
@@Bassguitarist1985 An equivalent with longer leads might be available or you could extend them- I haven't looked. And I wish I still had my 50 watt Fender Bassman- I could almost take a vacation on what they sell for now. Age made me tone-deaf so I sold everything long ago 😥
@@P_RO_ bit of a dangerous amp to work on too if it isnt modded with bleed resistors. For the caps it was easy to figure out the replacement. Its knowing what to look for
15:00 Why didn't you show the final glue up? Seems sort of anti-climactic to not show that.
Apologies for that. Figured glue drying was an ineffective use of video time. Ill include in the next project!
hi
Hey!