I know for a fact that really bad cavitation is from not running quality diesel coolant and it will happen in just one season. I blew a rad hose in the middle of nowhere found a wreck and got the hose off it. Just used water and thought what the heck it's mid-June had no overheating. By August my front cover was as bad maybe worse than the one you pointed out. Good thing no antifreeze in the crank shells etc and it happens so fast it didn't cause any damage internally but it was a huge issue. PS Quality diesel coolant is a must. If you say Ford + the additive I'm on my way to get that additive. Can't believe Ford never told me about the additive. They will hear from me.
I agree with you, I personally always put the coolant that the manufacturer states in the manual for that reason. Ive always put the Motorcraft Gold in this truck. But there's no telling what the previous owner(s) did
You can run without the thermostats in and an emergency, once the motor has cooled you could remove them on side the road! How long to cool this down? A long time
Hey, very sorry, I didn't know I had any comments on this video! I did in fact get it operating properly. The thermostats (more specifically the worn out housing) were the problem on my particular truck
My problem was the thermostats/worn out housing, but make sure you have a properly functioning coolant cap, the revised version. I think it's under $10. Go with the easiest/cheapest fixes first
My 08 is same issue. Very hot to point of steam out of top radiator hose. I did change thermostats but no improvement. Would like to hear if you got any results. Going to check water pump for cavitation.
Change your coolant cap. The original caps are junk and your coolant boiling point is severely lowered. It's a cheap fix (if that's it) and Advance has the updated caps.
Hi, in my particular case the thermostats (actually most likely the housing) were the problem. I agree with Marcus, make sure you have an updated cap. The old style had springs that would fail to hold the pressure necessary, which lowers the boiling point of your coolant. This will cause it to steam out of the system often unnoticed which overtime can introduce air into the system. When you have air in there with that size of water pump it causes cavitation, making things a lot worse! All from a cap! Hopefully thats all your problem is
Also, when you changed the thermostats, did you or whoever installed it look closely at the thermostat housing to make sure it doesn't have any of the wear I had on mine in the video? I believe my thermostats were probably fine, the housing was probably the issue
Oil cooler restrictions would mean it wouldn't cool off by pulling over to the side of the road, could have a partial block but if it maintained operating temp at all means the oil cooler is fine
You are correct you do not need a wearing eyewear sleeve on the new updated version of the oil seal the new oil seals are considered as a compression seal and as you tap them in they flatten out and the seal actually expands to the inside trading its own ring which you will see once you pull it off
I know for a fact that really bad cavitation is from not running quality diesel coolant and it will happen in just one season. I blew a rad hose in the middle of nowhere found a wreck and got the hose off it. Just used water and thought what the heck it's mid-June had no overheating. By August my front cover was as bad maybe worse than the one you pointed out. Good thing no antifreeze in the crank shells etc and it happens so fast it didn't cause any damage internally but it was a huge issue. PS Quality diesel coolant is a must. If you say Ford + the additive I'm on my way to get that additive. Can't believe Ford never told me about the additive. They will hear from me.
I agree with you, I personally always put the coolant that the manufacturer states in the manual for that reason. Ive always put the Motorcraft Gold in this truck. But there's no telling what the previous owner(s) did
You can run without the thermostats in and an emergency, once the motor has cooled you could remove them on side the road! How long to cool this down? A long time
I have an 08 6.4 doing a very similar thing. Did you get your truck operating properly?
Hey, very sorry, I didn't know I had any comments on this video! I did in fact get it operating properly. The thermostats (more specifically the worn out housing) were the problem on my particular truck
Check for coolant in the oil head gasket or front cover.
What was the problem
The thermostats/housing were the problem in my case
Hey brother my truck is doing exactly the same did you find the issue .?
My problem was the thermostats/worn out housing, but make sure you have a properly functioning coolant cap, the revised version. I think it's under $10. Go with the easiest/cheapest fixes first
My 08 is same issue. Very hot to point of steam out of top radiator hose. I did change thermostats but no improvement. Would like to hear if you got any results. Going to check water pump for cavitation.
Change your coolant cap. The original caps are junk and your coolant boiling point is severely lowered. It's a cheap fix (if that's it) and Advance has the updated caps.
Hi, in my particular case the thermostats (actually most likely the housing) were the problem. I agree with Marcus, make sure you have an updated cap. The old style had springs that would fail to hold the pressure necessary, which lowers the boiling point of your coolant. This will cause it to steam out of the system often unnoticed which overtime can introduce air into the system. When you have air in there with that size of water pump it causes cavitation, making things a lot worse! All from a cap! Hopefully thats all your problem is
Also, when you changed the thermostats, did you or whoever installed it look closely at the thermostat housing to make sure it doesn't have any of the wear I had on mine in the video? I believe my thermostats were probably fine, the housing was probably the issue
Oil cooler restriction
Oil cooler restrictions would mean it wouldn't cool off by pulling over to the side of the road, could have a partial block but if it maintained operating temp at all means the oil cooler is fine
You are correct you do not need a wearing eyewear sleeve on the new updated version of the oil seal the new oil seals are considered as a compression seal and as you tap them in they flatten out and the seal actually expands to the inside trading its own ring which you will see once you pull it off
@@scotty_patriot1685 Thanks for the info! I did end up installing it as you said. Its been about a year now and I've had no problems
Thanks for the suggestion, it ended up being the thermostats/housing
@@shopidiot3416 sorry about the auto correct lol. I just read it again. Hope it helped.