Thanks for suggestions on putting a drop of oil in the bobbin hook location and the race of the hook where it meets the bobbin case. I did so and here was what happened: In a rather high speed (Juki HZL F300, in the little over middle speed setting), the bobbin holder ran out of its position, turn itself counter-clockwise a half turn, and caught the needle when it came down. The needle hit the bobbin case and made a hole on it. The needle broke, and the hook timing was completely off. Now the hook went passing the needle tip when the tip was coming up and it missed the thread loop, instead of went passing the top of the needle eye. It could be the bobbin hook or the location where the bobbin holder meets the stopper was too slippery. I don't know. This could be one of the considerations when oiling the bobbin area.
I don't know about Juki machines and their mechanical parts. I think I saw a Juki machine once at a thrift shop. I've done this type of oiling on every domestic Singer machine I've worked on over the years with good results. Many of the instruction manuals show and explain how to do it and that's where I first learned about it. I just downloaded a copy of the manual for your Juki; www.jukihome.com/media/catalog/product/h/z/hzl-f_instruction_manual.pdf On page 94 was the only maintenance instructions that basically show/say to remove the bobbin case and brush it and the area with a link brush. Modern machines have a lot of plastic parts that don't/shouldn't use oil. I could not find any oiling instructions in the manual at all. Is the bobbin case plastic? I pinned your comment to the top of the comment section here so others can hear of your experience with oiling. Thanks for sharing.
Very informative and helpful. PLEASE, PLEASE DON'T CALL YOURSELF ARROGANT. I have watched you for quite some time, and find you to be a very kind and HUMBLE man. The mere fact that you admitted to making a mistake proves your humility. God bless you and stay well.
Thank you for this comment, Ronald. I guess you are correct about admitting a mistake and when someone I know does that I feel positive towards them as a good person, so I will feel the same towards myself. I appreciate your sincere comment all the more. 🙏
Gosh, Andy, thank you for mentioning me. I “met” you, I believe, a little over 2 years ago. At that time I knew so little. I only had my 457 (for about 50 years!). It has and continues to serve me well. But now, I know so much more because of you, and have so many more machines. It’s been a fabulous trip to learn about the 404, 403A and 401A. They are beautiful, sturdy, interesting machines. Currently, I’ve been sewing and messing about with my 404. My current thought is “Who needs zigzag?” I sewed some car seat covers with it and used covered seams; I’m very happy with the 404. I can now hear very well when the hook race needs oiling on all of my machines. Best of health to you Andy, and I look forward to more videos from you.
Hi, Carole. I mentioned you as a way to thank you for planting a seed of learning in my mind, although I did not recognize it at the time. When I saw that small weep hole for the oil that seed bloomed right out into understanding. I am grateful for that. My wife feels as you do about straight stitch and her 301A, Coco. Probably 95% of her sewing is straight. She has the old Brother Serger that she'll break out for certain stretch fabrics, especially fleece, and once in a while, I hear the 403A making buttonholes. I'm happy you have followed along with me to VSM land and feel you do own what I call the "Trifecta" of the 401 Class of metal machines that I feel are the pinnacle of engineering and craftsmanship. I've enjoyed your comments and what you have shared on my channel. Thank you 🙏
Just figured it out!!! You are the MISTER RODGERS of Singer sewing enthusiasts. Calm, enlightening, patient, soothing voice, instilling good values! We love Andy!
Great refresher Andy. We all need a reminder as to where and when to lubricate, especially if you sew on different machines. As a hobbyist, I am constantly referring to the manuals and your videos for trouble shooting, disassembly and operating procedures to keep my vintage Singers running trouble free. Thanks for the upload...glad to here you are doing well.💪
My 500a is noisy as well so thanks for the great fix, it's great to preserve these magnificently designed machines. They are built for a lifetime of sewing and maybe more if maintained.
Very welcome, John, and I agree about lasting a lifetime. I've seen a half-dozen family-owned machines that were over 100-years-old and working nicely. The owners said they just brushed out the lint, used Singer oil regularly, and kept the machine covered when not in use. Wish it was that easy for humans to last that long. Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
Great video Andy. So glad your back. Don’t worry about your lighting. We can see great. I’ve always put a drop of oil to that center hole but never realized it wept down into that bushing.
Thanks, terry. When I edited the video I was surprised how good the lighting looked. I think the small screen on the camera and the angle I see from sitting behind it distorts what I'm looking at. I'm relieved by your comment.
I can’t figure out how you always seem to know what I happen to need to know about my machines, but you have done it again. I have three Vintage Singers with this type of bobbin assembly and now I will get to work! So glad you received your first COVID vaccine, and that you are enjoying the sun and your life in Arizona. You are truly a treasure. Thank you, Andy.
I love that dB reader - you can be sure of what difference you're making. It's a powerful incentive to keep up proper oiling. And while a couple of dB might not seem much decibels work on a logarithmic scale rather than a linear one and every 3 dB (approx) increase in decibels is a doubling of the intensity in sound. I knew oiling made a difference but that was a really good demonstration of just how much! (It explains why when I get a really old machine that hasn't seen any oil since it got it from a whale and then I oil the poor parched darling she goes from sounding like a steam train to a cat purring.) Thanks for another lovely video Andy. :-)
"hasn't seen any oil since it got it from a whale" Oh man, Megan. Excuse me while I wipe the laughter tears from my eyes,... Thank you very much for sharing about the dB scale. I was disappointed that the first test after oiling the hook did not show much decrease even though I could hear it somewhat. Now I get it. My wife also pointed out I was surely picking up noise from the nose parts of the machine, too. I guess it was not a very scientific testing method, but from experience I know I don't always hear in the video what I heard at the bench. Oiling the hook race/bobbin case has a much more noticeable result, and I meant to say that if you hear a rattle in the bobbin area you definitely need to oil there! Cheers, and take care.
Wow I will have to go back and oil all my singers as well, I was like you wondering what was the use of the oil there. Haha trust your manual. Thanks again cheers Tricia.
"trust your manual" you speak the powerful truth right there! Yes, trust the folks who made such a good product to help you maintain it properly. The saying of the month on Andy Tube, spoken by Tricia. Nicely done, 👍 and thanks for watching.
I thought the bobbin knocking the hook race noise was normal, until it started getting squeeky. I gave it a drop of oil and my machine became so quiet I thought I had broken it. It was an amazing difference!
Yes, when a hook race is very dry it's a dramatic change. My wife also worried I broke her 301A the first time I oiled the race. She did not believe it was OK until she threaded the machine and sewed a few stitches. "Oh wow, it's so quiet... show me how to do that". Thanks for the comment.
Great video! Thanks for affirming my hunch! I intuitively oiled these parts because my machine made so much noise and it helped, so I will continue doing so!
Love your channel, I found it today, watched 3 videos and I'm hooked! I have a collection of straight stitch machines (pre 1958 all of them) that need/ needed a lot of tlc but love learning about the other models too. Looking forward to watching all 500 odd of your videos. I use my collection as a pain remedy too. With best wishes from the UK xxx
Thanks so much, Tracey. 🙏 I'm glad you found my channel. I hope I have videos for some of your models or similar mechanics on the ones I restored. Thanks for collecting and saving those machines. If you have questions in the future you know where to find me. Take care.
Hey Andy - what oil do you use for oiling the machine? Also, in the manual for the 404 it says to also use a lubricant on other areas of the machine - do you use lubricant on those areas? If so, can you recommend a lubricant? Thank you! I love your videos. :)
Hi Jill. I use Tri-Flow products. Here is the oil; www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/ and here is the grease; www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-synthetic-grease/ No oil on any gear, please. Use grease on the metal gears and the Textolite gear of the handwheel. I buy the products online from Amazon or eBay and a couple local hardware stores and bicycle shops. I have a 56 video playlist for working on the model 404, and one of those videos is all about lubricating the machine if you are interested; ua-cam.com/video/raYAkJ0-jic/v-deo.html Thanks for watching my channel and happy oiling
Thanks for the kind words, very glad you got the vaccine. We all wish you the best in return. You are modest, but please let"us" shower you with goodwill also.
Andy - my wife has a Singer 301A she got from her grandmother about 40 years ago. It’s been a great machine. It even traveled around the world for 20 years with us while we were in the Air Force going from base to base. Recently my wife was repairing a horse blanket and the machine complained, moaned, groaned and jammed on and off throughout the project. I’d like to get her an additional machine for the heavy jobs like this. I would really appreciate your input on what model might be a good choice. I look forward to your response, thank you!
I'll answer your question first, then comment. Of the machines I have worked on, the model 404 would be the strongest. It's a straight stitch only machine and came after the 301A with a stronger motor and horizontal hook with a drop-in bobbin system. The same mechanics and the famous 401A Slant-O-Matic with some heavier parts and without the cam stack to push around all the time. Models I have not worked on but are acclaimed as very strong are 15-91 and 201-2. Those both have a "potted" direct-drive motor and are cast iron (very heavy) bodied. Every model mentioned is a domestic (home) machine. All that being said, when was the last time your wife's 301A motor and foot controller were cleaned and serviced? Model 301A is no slouch of a machine and should handle a horse blanket, IMO. Here are a couple things to look at before you buy another model. Clean the motor commutator in 5 minutes with a diamond stone ua-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/v-deo.html If more is needed, here is a playlist for rehabbing the foot controller ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html The motor and controller provide and regulate the power so getting them in proper condition can make a big difference. Like a truck that needs a good tune-up and oil change.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for the information and advice. I'll get to work on the motor and foot controller and let you know how it works out!
@@horstlinde2001 Thanks, and please do let us know as many viewers do read the comment section and you may be answering someone's question with what you find out. Good Luck.
Andy... Quick question about the Singer 404 and the oiling point at the base of the hook. On my 404, I took it completely apart and I am using the patented "Andy Cleaning Method" .. I got to the stage for the first oiling, and I noticed that I put several drops of oil in the base of the hook, but the oil just stayed there. How quickly should that oil disappear and go into the weep or seep hole? Is it normal for the oil to sit there for hours? Can it fill up, or does it end up draining somewhere if it is full and not clogged? I purchased the Krud Kutter, so perhaps I should try cleaning it out. Speaking of Krud Kutter, I see they have a "Parts Washer/Cleaner/Degreaser" product in a one-gallon jug. It also says it has a corrosion (rust) inhibitor, so maybe that would help fight against flash rusting issues? Thanks for your videos and for all that you do.
I had this experience with the hook in this video. Normally a drop or two is enough. The space between the hook shaft and the shaft bushing is very tight, so not much oil is needed. If you start watching this video @3:30 I explain that I did remove the oil and used KK and heat to clear a blockage in the weep hole. After that I reoiled it and it went into the bushing as it should. Thanks for the tip about the Parts washer. I did not hear they had some new cleaners available. I check out the SDS to see what is in it. I think I tend to use the KK at too strong a solution, even 100%, and I think it's why I get rust sometimes. Just guessing.
Cleaned up and lubricated a 400 series machine years ago, but it kept rattling. Was going nuts. Couldn't figure out where the rattling was coming from. SOOOOOO perhaps this was the problem. Oil not getting down that central hole in the hook and getting to the bushing/bearing. I forgot what happened to the machine...gave it away...?
Andy. ,re: the led light bulbs. Is there anyway to know if need one with a flange or without flange prior to ordering?. Or is it a trial and error situation?. Enjoyed this video as usual, do glad you are doing good. Please stay safe, and you are in my prayers. Also, my Singer 237 has the bobbin on the left side. I remember your mentioning another Singer machine that used the same type needle plate. I am trying to locate a straight stitch plate. Would you recall which machine uses same needle plate as Singer 237? Thank you for all your instructional video.
I did the LED trial and error and have found, IMO, the LED bulbs without a flange always seem to work, while many of the bulbs with a flange will not insert far enough to turn the pins into the slots. Here is an example of a bulb I like to use (there are other sellers) www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/led-light-bulb/products/led-light-bulb-push-in-type-19-32-base As for the straight stitch plate on model 237. I am not aware they made one. Model 239 is the straight stitch only machine and it has a needle plate for straight stitch only (part 125113) but it will not work on model 237. The two models have different feed dogs and the slots in the 239 plate will not fit the dog in model 237. The part number for the "combination" needle plate on model 237 is 352107.
That is exactly what I needed to know as I have been having recently been having noises in the bobbin case. I also have a question. I recently oiled my machine (403A) and put oil where I was supposed to put motor lubricant. Is that going to cause problems?
If you mean you put oil on any or all of the 7 gears of the machine, yes it will cause problems. Never put oil on any gear of the 403A. The metal gears get hot, VERY hot, and oil will not protect them. those gears, the TEXTOLITE handwheel gear, and the worm gear on the main horizontal arm shaft all require grease for operation and protection. The problem you face now is that grease won't stick to oil, so it won't work to just apply grease to the gears now. Not enough grease will stick due to the oil. The oil needs to be completely cleaned off of those gears and then grease applied. Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser is the product I use to remove oil & grease when I clean the machine www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter/ There are other products that will clean them, like kerosene, Varsol, and other brands of degreaser. Then the degreaser must be removed, (I wash the machine in the shower) the gears dried completely, oil and grease applied. This is the grease many people use on their sewing machines, www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-synthetic-grease/ There are also other synthetic greases and a couple types of "new" motor lubricant on the market. Here is the oil we use for the places that are to have oil www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/ you can also use any quality sewing machine oil or all-purpose machine oil. SInger, Dritz, Lily-white, sew-rite to name a few. I have several videos for working on model 403A (and 503A which has the same mechanical parts. The videos include cleaning, degreasing, washing the machine, drying, and lubricating. There are videos showing how to remove parts, like the handwheel, for easier cleaning and degreasing. The videos are in PLAYLISTS on my main Playlist page. Here are links to the playlists. 403A - ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html and 503A - ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html It's a total of 45+ videos. For those interested, a FREE copy of the SInger Instruction Manual for model 403A is available for download at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403A On pages 89 thru 91 of that manual it shows most of the places to put oil and grease on the machine (it does not show how to grease the worm gear or base of the cam stack) On page 89, in bold letters, it states "NEVER APPLY OIL TO THESE GEARS". I was also told this by a couple of retired Singer Repairmen. Certain videos in the playlists I mentioned are about how and where to put oil and grease on the machines if you'd rather see it in a "how-to" video. Don't be upset about what happened. You are not the first or last, I'm sure. It's better you form and start a plan to properly protect those gears. Good Luck.
I've looked thru your videos and cannot find any info on machine foot pedals. I have an Emdeko vintage machine without a pedal. The machine is 1.3 amps and I want to buy a new one on Amazon but I don't know if I have to look for a special one or if any one will do. Thanks.
I actually have several foot pedal videos among my 550+ video library. None of them are for Emdeko machines though. I'm strickly a Singer guy and know nothing about that brand. A quick eBay search for "emdeko sewing foot pedal" came back with a few vintage pedals for sale, most of them showing about 1.2 AMPS. You can find pedals with that amperage rating, but I'd be more concerned with the cords. You may need a certain type of connector into the machine, but I don't know as I've never even seen an Emdeko machine. Doing a Google image search came back with pictures of some different style pedals. Perhaps you can find a picture of your particular model with a foot pedal showing to give you some idea of what to look for.
Sorry... hit the wrong button... no zigzag on 3 with either center or right middle position. Have to advance to 4. Also, the needle left right center barely moves the needle shaft. I see small screws inside the door where the presser foot and needle bars are. Are these adjustment screws for left right center movements? The zigzag cam looks fine no damage there. Do you have any ideas to get the machine to zigzag properly?
OK, a lot going on there. Don't adjust anything yet, please. The width lever is connected to the Bight Amplitude and Pattern Selector part under the DIsc Driving Worm Wheel. See? A lot going on, and you don't want to adjust without knowing what is wrong. Maybe the lever is installed wrong or it's out of adjustment. When you move the lever it also positions the Needle Bar Driving Arm that moves the Needle Bar Driving Bracket (vibrating bracket) that actually positions the needle bar and makes the needle swing back and forth. Maybe one or more of those parts needs oiling, or a good cleaning, and not any adjusting. Here is my playlist of videos for model 403A ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html Looking thru some of them can give you an idea of how things should work and how to fix them if needed. You can also download a free copy of the Service Manual from this page: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf I have no idea the condition of the machine you bought. I will say that almost every vintage 403A I have purchased over the years needed cleaning and oiling at the very least. The machine is 60+ years old now, and you can imagine how much old oil, grease, grunge, and crud it has accumulated. I have found that cleaning and oiling the machine can eliminate up to 90% of problems, leaving behind one or two problems of a worn or misadjusted part that can then be easily replaced or adjusted. Those small screws inside the door that you mention are probably not going to help you unless you want to start removing parts as I show in the videos for cleaning. There are many other screws inside the machine that can adjust and position the parts WHEN NEEDED if it comes to that. Don't make the problem worse than it is. Try to see how the inside parts should be moving and if they are. The 403A playlist has 20+ videos and there is also a playlist for model 503A which is mechanically the same as your machine for the most part. It also has 20+ videos and you can find it here; ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
My Rocketeer sometimes hangs up because when the hook race catches the thread from the needle, instead of going over the top of the bobbin, it is going UNDER the bobbin case (took me awhile to figure that out but I finally caught it in the act). I've done your video on the bobbin case. I took everything apart, cleaned and oiled and put back together but the problem is still there. Suggestions? Thanks!
Sorry that you're having a problem, Linda. Are you working on a model 404 then? I'd like to clarify the problem, please. Did this just start happening, or is the machine new to you? When the hook point (the race is what the bobbin case sits on) catches the needle thread it starts pulling the thread around the hook. It's actually pulling a loop of the needle thread. What I will call the top thread of that loop slides over the top of the bobbin case and bobbin as the hook rotates. The bottom thread of that loop does go under the bobbin case. These actions wrap the needle thread around the bobbin thread to form the lock stitch. So you are saying the needle thread goes under the bobbin case. Do you mean BOTH threads of the loop are going under the case? That's unusual for sure. Can you tell me the exact point the thread gets hung up? Like does the sewing stop? Is the thread caught on the edge of the bobbin case, bottom right corner? Does it get wrapped around the hook itself and stop the machine? Thread hangs can be caused by a few things (of course). Like the wrong bobbin. Your machine (404) uses Singer class 66 bobbins with curved sides. Curved so the thread can pass over & under the bobbin case & bobbin. If you use any other bobbin you will always have hangups. There can be a burr on the hook that catches the needle thread and slows or stops the thread from releasing. There is a "gap" between the bobbin case and the bobbin case position bracket spring that allows the thread to pass through after release and be pulled up by the take-up lever. If that gap clearance is too tight the thread will hang there after the hook goes by. Then the hook grabs another thread and it hangs on the first, etc. Some of the hooks have a delint pin that can catch the thread under the edge of the hook and create a big bird's nest of thread. So that's why I'm asking for more info. I have videos for some of these situations and if you can tell me more I can recommend better. You are welcome to post pictures/videos on your channel or somewhere online so we can see what your machine is doing.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. Just wanted to let you know that I solved the problem. I broke down and took it to the sewing machine repair person and all I needed to do was loosen the tension screw on the front of the bobbin case. Easy-peasy! Hope you are well.
@@lindaestes8261 I'm glad you have the problem resolved. Thanks for the feedback. Good to know. When you first said ""I've done your video on the bobbin case. I took everything apart, cleaned and oiled and put back together but the problem is still there"" I thought you meant this video for the bobbin case ua-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/v-deo.html It must have been very frustrating and it's nice you have a good repair person locally. Happy sewing.
@@andytubesewing1953 AHA! It looks like had I done this video, I would have solved the problem a long time ago. I will be watching it tonight. No, I did "Oiling the hook and bobbin case . . ." One of the things I appreciate about your videos is that you teach the names of things. Which I clearly have not learned properly yet. But I'll get there, little by little. Thanks for your work
@@lindaestes8261 No worries, you are doing great. I'm happy you work on your machines to keep them in service. I just take things literally is all. Besides, I have 550+ videos on my channel, and no one has watched all of them. The important thing is you fixed it. Thanks for watching my channel, and take care.
@@ahmadhameed1472 Velkommen. En sidehistorie her, vær så snill. Da jeg var lærling i kommunikasjonsbransjen, var treneren av norsk herkomst. Mens han jobbet på en stolpe, sang han ofte "10.000 svensker løp gjennom ugresset som ble jaget av en nordmann". Ha det fint; vær trygg.
Nope. There should not be anything in the oil except oil. The manual shows to put a drop there and the parts list/diagram says/shows nothing about any cork on the machine.
Hi Andy. I know I’m being a pest! Sorry. I just tried to replace the light bulb in my 401A. It doesn’t fit. I goes in the socket but will not turn to lock in? Any suggestions?
Were you following one of my videos about the LED bulb? Just so I'm clear, are you saying the LED bulb will not rotate or turn AT ALL when you put it in? Or do you mean you can push in the bub and turn it but it won't "lock" into place?
@@andytubesewing1953 the bulb goes all the way in but not far enough to turn in the ridges that lock it in. The contacts on the bulb are too thick from what I can tell. 1/16”. Not much, but enough that it won’t turn into the locking groves?
@@judithwise4997 When I first started buying LED bulbs for vintage Singer machines many of them would not fit properly. What I found was they had a flange where the metal met the silicone lite pats that prevented full insertion into the socket and the pins would not reach the slots to twist the pins into. Maybe yours is like that, IDK. Some of them had a wide plastic base between the metal and silicone parts that caused the same problem. For a few years, I knew of two sellers who sold LED bulbs without a metal flange or wide base, but they both closed their shops. Here is an example of a bulb that should work from a trusted seller. www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/led-light-bulb/products/led-light-bulb-push-in-type-19-32-base I also bought directly from China at a big discount but 10 bulbs (for the price of 3 in the USA) The mail is slow (like 2 weeks) but I got them. I gave a few as stocking stuffers a couple years back to friends who have Singer machines.
I've never seen that model here. I did find that you can download the instruction manual from SInger (manual W159) www.singer.com/search/support?title=159 I made a video for replacing the top gear on the vertical shaft if that is what you mean ua-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/v-deo.html The body of the 159 is different and may not have access to the gear from the front or rear. For those types of models, you usually have to remove the gear from the top of the machine, AFTER removing the horizontal arm shaft and many of the parts and shafts connected to it. It's a workout. I tried but failed, to find a Service Manual for your machine. Sometimes they have instructions for changing the top gear. Sorry, I can't help you more than that.
Tidak ada cat pada mesin / motor. Apakah saya salah paham? Cat pada badan mesin jahit dapat kusam dan hilang kilaunya karena pembersih KrudKutter digunakan dalam konsentrasi yang kuat, atau bahkan pada larutan 15% jika dibiarkan menempel pada cat untuk waktu yang lebih lama.
Thanks for suggestions on putting a drop of oil in the bobbin hook location and the race of the hook where it meets the bobbin case. I did so and here was what happened:
In a rather high speed (Juki HZL F300, in the little over middle speed setting), the bobbin holder ran out of its position, turn itself counter-clockwise a half turn, and caught the needle when it came down. The needle hit the bobbin case and made a hole on it. The needle broke, and the hook timing was completely off. Now the hook went passing the needle tip when the tip was coming up and it missed the thread loop, instead of went passing the top of the needle eye.
It could be the bobbin hook or the location where the bobbin holder meets the stopper was too slippery. I don't know.
This could be one of the considerations when oiling the bobbin area.
I don't know about Juki machines and their mechanical parts. I think I saw a Juki machine once at a thrift shop. I've done this type of oiling on every domestic Singer machine I've worked on over the years with good results. Many of the instruction manuals show and explain how to do it and that's where I first learned about it. I just downloaded a copy of the manual for your Juki; www.jukihome.com/media/catalog/product/h/z/hzl-f_instruction_manual.pdf On page 94 was the only maintenance instructions that basically show/say to remove the bobbin case and brush it and the area with a link brush. Modern machines have a lot of plastic parts that don't/shouldn't use oil. I could not find any oiling instructions in the manual at all. Is the bobbin case plastic? I pinned your comment to the top of the comment section here so others can hear of your experience with oiling. Thanks for sharing.
Very informative and helpful. PLEASE, PLEASE DON'T CALL YOURSELF ARROGANT. I have watched you for quite some time, and find you to be a very kind and HUMBLE man. The mere fact that you admitted to making a mistake proves your humility. God bless you and stay well.
Thank you for this comment, Ronald. I guess you are correct about admitting a mistake and when someone I know does that I feel positive towards them as a good person, so I will feel the same towards myself. I appreciate your sincere comment all the more. 🙏
Gosh, Andy, thank you for mentioning me. I “met” you, I believe, a little over 2 years ago. At that time I knew so little. I only had my 457 (for about 50 years!). It has and continues to serve me well. But now, I know so much more because of you, and have so many more machines. It’s been a fabulous trip to learn about the 404, 403A and 401A. They are beautiful, sturdy, interesting machines. Currently, I’ve been sewing and messing about with my 404. My current thought is “Who needs zigzag?” I sewed some car seat covers with it and used covered seams; I’m very happy with the 404. I can now hear very well when the hook race needs oiling on all of my machines. Best of health to you Andy, and I look forward to more videos from you.
Hi, Carole. I mentioned you as a way to thank you for planting a seed of learning in my mind, although I did not recognize it at the time.
When I saw that small weep hole for the oil that seed bloomed right out into understanding. I am grateful for that. My wife feels as you do about straight stitch and her 301A, Coco. Probably 95% of her sewing is straight. She has the old Brother Serger that she'll break out for certain stretch fabrics, especially fleece, and once in a while, I hear the 403A making buttonholes. I'm happy you have followed along with me to VSM land and feel you do own what I call the "Trifecta" of the 401 Class of metal machines that I feel are the pinnacle of engineering and craftsmanship. I've enjoyed your comments and what you have shared on my channel. Thank you 🙏
Just figured it out!!! You are the MISTER RODGERS of Singer sewing enthusiasts. Calm, enlightening, patient, soothing voice, instilling good values! We love Andy!
Hey, thanks! 🙏 I prefer the Bob Ross comparison, but won't you be my neighbor?
Great refresher Andy. We all need a reminder as to where and when to lubricate, especially if you sew on different machines. As a hobbyist, I am constantly referring to the manuals and your videos for trouble shooting, disassembly and operating procedures to keep my vintage Singers running trouble free. Thanks for the upload...glad to here you are doing well.💪
Thank you very much!
My 500a is noisy as well so thanks for the great fix, it's great to preserve these magnificently designed machines. They are built for a lifetime of sewing and maybe more if maintained.
Very welcome, John, and I agree about lasting a lifetime. I've seen a half-dozen family-owned machines that were over 100-years-old and working nicely. The owners said they just brushed out the lint, used Singer oil regularly, and kept the machine covered when not in use. Wish it was that easy for humans to last that long. Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
Great video Andy. So glad your back. Don’t worry about your lighting. We can see great. I’ve always put a drop of oil to that center hole but never realized it wept down into that bushing.
Thanks, terry. When I edited the video I was surprised how good the lighting looked. I think the small screen on the camera and the angle I see from sitting behind it distorts what I'm looking at. I'm relieved by your comment.
I can’t figure out how you always seem to know what I happen to need to know about my machines, but you have done it again. I have three Vintage Singers with this type of bobbin assembly and now I will get to work! So glad you received your first COVID vaccine, and that you are enjoying the sun and your life in Arizona. You are truly a treasure. Thank you, Andy.
I wish I could say it's because I am psychic. We're just lucky I guess. Thanks for the comment and the good wishes. 🙏Take care.
Just another reason we all love you: that wonderful, classic Andy Tube sense of humor and sweet laugh!
💖
I love that dB reader - you can be sure of what difference you're making. It's a powerful incentive to keep up proper oiling. And while a couple of dB might not seem much decibels work on a logarithmic scale rather than a linear one and every 3 dB (approx) increase in decibels is a doubling of the intensity in sound. I knew oiling made a difference but that was a really good demonstration of just how much! (It explains why when I get a really old machine that hasn't seen any oil since it got it from a whale and then I oil the poor parched darling she goes from sounding like a steam train to a cat purring.) Thanks for another lovely video Andy. :-)
"hasn't seen any oil since it got it from a whale" Oh man, Megan. Excuse me while I wipe the laughter tears from my eyes,...
Thank you very much for sharing about the dB scale. I was disappointed that the first test after oiling the hook did not show much decrease even though I could hear it somewhat. Now I get it. My wife also pointed out I was surely picking up noise from the nose parts of the machine, too. I guess it was not a very scientific testing method, but from experience I know I don't always hear in the video what I heard at the bench. Oiling the hook race/bobbin case has a much more noticeable result, and I meant to say that if you hear a rattle in the bobbin area you definitely need to oil there! Cheers, and take care.
Wow I will have to go back and oil all my singers as well, I was like you wondering what was the use of the oil there. Haha trust your manual. Thanks again cheers Tricia.
"trust your manual" you speak the powerful truth right there! Yes, trust the folks who made such a good product to help you maintain it properly. The saying of the month on Andy Tube, spoken by Tricia. Nicely done, 👍 and thanks for watching.
Thanks for all you do to help us maintain our little beauties 💕
You are very welcome and thanks for keeping your machine in service. I appreciate your nice comment
I thought the bobbin knocking the hook race noise was normal, until it started getting squeeky. I gave it a drop of oil and my machine became so quiet I thought I had broken it. It was an amazing difference!
Yes, when a hook race is very dry it's a dramatic change. My wife also worried I broke her 301A the first time I oiled the race. She did not believe it was OK until she threaded the machine and sewed a few stitches. "Oh wow, it's so quiet... show me how to do that". Thanks for the comment.
I have learned so much by watching your vids. Love your channel, thank you, Andy.
😊 Thanks very much 🙏
Great video! Thanks for affirming my hunch! I intuitively oiled these parts because my machine made so much noise and it helped, so I will continue doing so!
Your intuition was correct! 👍To me, it is a sign that you understand and know your machine very well. Thanks for watching and take care.
Good tips. Thanks Andy, good to hear you are keeping well
Thanks for the good wishes 🙏
Thank you, Mr. Andy. Very helpful.
👍😊
Great video, thanks Andy😊❤
I'm happy I could make the video and appreciate that you took the time to watch it ✨
Love your channel, I found it today, watched 3 videos and I'm hooked! I have a collection of straight stitch machines (pre 1958 all of them) that need/ needed a lot of tlc but love learning about the other models too. Looking forward to watching all 500 odd of your videos. I use my collection as a pain remedy too. With best wishes from the UK xxx
Thanks so much, Tracey. 🙏 I'm glad you found my channel. I hope I have videos for some of your models or similar mechanics on the ones I restored. Thanks for collecting and saving those machines. If you have questions in the future you know where to find me.
Take care.
Very helpful! Thank you!
😀 Welcome, Suzanne, and thanks for watching.
Hey Andy - what oil do you use for oiling the machine? Also, in the manual for the 404 it says to also use a lubricant on other areas of the machine - do you use lubricant on those areas? If so, can you recommend a lubricant? Thank you! I love your videos. :)
Hi Jill. I use Tri-Flow products. Here is the oil; www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/
and here is the grease; www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-synthetic-grease/
No oil on any gear, please. Use grease on the metal gears and the Textolite gear of the handwheel. I buy the products online from Amazon or eBay and a couple local hardware stores and bicycle shops. I have a 56 video playlist for working on the model 404, and one of those videos is all about lubricating the machine if you are interested; ua-cam.com/video/raYAkJ0-jic/v-deo.html Thanks for watching my channel and happy oiling
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you 😊
@@desmirage no worries at all, Jill.
Thanks for the kind words, very glad you got the vaccine. We all wish you the best in return. You are modest, but please let"us" shower you with goodwill also.
Kind words beget kind words 😊Thanks very much for the kind wishes 🙏
Power watching Andy Tube tonight!
Why not, right? Maybe pace yourself though. I have 550+ videos. Thanks for watching my channel. Take cafe.
Great video.Thanks Andy.
So nice of you to say so, Dorothy. Doing my best for the best viewers on YT. Take care.
I always wondered how to get oil to the hook shaft ?
I wish I had a picture of the look on my face when it dawned on me, hehe. Color me surprised and humbled. Thanks for watching, Randy, and take care.
Andy - my wife has a Singer 301A she got from her grandmother about 40 years ago. It’s been a great machine. It even traveled around the world for 20 years with us while we were in the Air Force going from base to base. Recently my wife was repairing a horse blanket and the machine complained, moaned, groaned and jammed on and off throughout the project. I’d like to get her an additional machine for the heavy jobs like this. I would really appreciate your input on what model might be a good choice. I look forward to your response, thank you!
I'll answer your question first, then comment. Of the machines I have worked on, the model 404 would be the strongest. It's a straight stitch only machine and came after the 301A with a stronger motor and horizontal hook with a drop-in bobbin system. The same mechanics and the famous 401A Slant-O-Matic with some heavier parts and without the cam stack to push around all the time. Models I have not worked on but are acclaimed as very strong are 15-91 and 201-2. Those both have a "potted" direct-drive motor and are cast iron (very heavy) bodied. Every model mentioned is a domestic (home) machine. All that being said, when was the last time your wife's 301A motor and foot controller were cleaned and serviced? Model 301A is no slouch of a machine and should handle a horse blanket, IMO. Here are a couple things to look at before you buy another model. Clean the motor commutator in 5 minutes with a diamond stone ua-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/v-deo.html
If more is needed, here is a playlist for rehabbing the foot controller ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html The motor and controller provide and regulate the power so getting them in proper condition can make a big difference. Like a truck that needs a good tune-up and oil change.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for the information and advice. I'll get to work on the motor and foot controller and let you know how it works out!
@@horstlinde2001 Thanks, and please do let us know as many viewers do read the comment section and you may be answering someone's question with what you find out. Good Luck.
Andy... Quick question about the Singer 404 and the oiling point at the base of the hook.
On my 404, I took it completely apart and I am using the patented "Andy Cleaning Method" .. I got to the stage for the first oiling, and I noticed that I put several drops of oil in the base of the hook, but the oil just stayed there.
How quickly should that oil disappear and go into the weep or seep hole? Is it normal for the oil to sit there for hours? Can it fill up, or does it end up draining somewhere if it is full and not clogged?
I purchased the Krud Kutter, so perhaps I should try cleaning it out.
Speaking of Krud Kutter, I see they have a "Parts Washer/Cleaner/Degreaser" product in a one-gallon jug. It also says it has a corrosion (rust) inhibitor, so maybe that would help fight against flash rusting issues?
Thanks for your videos and for all that you do.
I had this experience with the hook in this video. Normally a drop or two is enough. The space between the hook shaft and the shaft bushing is very tight, so not much oil is needed. If you start watching this video @3:30 I explain that I did remove the oil and used KK and heat to clear a blockage in the weep hole. After that I reoiled it and it went into the bushing as it should. Thanks for the tip about the Parts washer. I did not hear they had some new cleaners available. I check out the SDS to see what is in it. I think I tend to use the KK at too strong a solution, even 100%, and I think it's why I get rust sometimes. Just guessing.
Cleaned up and lubricated a 400 series machine years ago, but it kept rattling. Was going nuts. Couldn't figure out where the rattling was coming from. SOOOOOO perhaps this was the problem. Oil not getting down that central hole in the hook and getting to the bushing/bearing. I forgot what happened to the machine...gave it away...?
Andy. ,re: the led light bulbs. Is there anyway to know if need one with a flange or without flange prior to ordering?. Or is it a trial and error situation?. Enjoyed this video as usual, do glad you are doing good. Please stay safe, and you are in my prayers. Also, my Singer 237 has the bobbin on the left side. I remember your mentioning another Singer machine that used the same type needle plate. I am trying to locate a straight stitch plate. Would you recall which machine uses same needle plate as Singer 237? Thank you for all your instructional video.
I did the LED trial and error and have found, IMO, the LED bulbs without a flange always seem to work, while many of the bulbs with a flange will not insert far enough to turn the pins into the slots. Here is an example of a bulb I like to use (there are other sellers)
www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/led-light-bulb/products/led-light-bulb-push-in-type-19-32-base
As for the straight stitch plate on model 237. I am not aware they made one. Model 239 is the straight stitch only machine and it has a needle plate for straight stitch only (part 125113) but it will not work on model 237. The two models have different feed dogs and the slots in the 239 plate will not fit the dog in model 237. The part number for the "combination" needle plate on model 237 is 352107.
That is exactly what I needed to know as I have been having recently been having noises in the bobbin case. I also have a question. I recently oiled my machine (403A) and put oil where I was supposed to put motor lubricant. Is that going to cause problems?
If you mean you put oil on any or all of the 7 gears of the machine, yes it will cause problems. Never put oil on any gear of the 403A.
The metal gears get hot, VERY hot, and oil will not protect them. those gears, the TEXTOLITE handwheel gear, and the worm gear on the main horizontal arm shaft all require grease for operation and protection. The problem you face now is that grease won't stick to oil, so it won't work to just apply grease to the gears now. Not enough grease will stick due to the oil. The oil needs to be completely cleaned off of those gears and then grease applied. Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser is the product I use to remove oil & grease when I clean the machine www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter/ There are other products that will clean them, like kerosene, Varsol, and other brands of degreaser. Then the degreaser must be removed, (I wash the machine in the shower) the gears dried completely, oil and grease applied. This is the grease many people use on their sewing machines, www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-synthetic-grease/ There are also other synthetic greases and a couple types of "new" motor lubricant on the market. Here is the oil we use for the places that are to have oil www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-drip-bottle/ you can also use any quality sewing machine oil or all-purpose machine oil. SInger, Dritz, Lily-white, sew-rite to name a few. I have several videos for working on model 403A (and 503A which has the same mechanical parts. The videos include cleaning, degreasing, washing the machine, drying, and lubricating. There are videos showing how to remove parts, like the handwheel, for easier cleaning and degreasing. The videos are in PLAYLISTS on my main Playlist page. Here are links to the playlists. 403A - ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html and 503A - ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
It's a total of 45+ videos. For those interested, a FREE copy of the SInger Instruction Manual for model 403A is available for download at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=403A
On pages 89 thru 91 of that manual it shows most of the places to put oil and grease on the machine (it does not show how to grease the worm gear or base of the cam stack) On page 89, in bold letters, it states "NEVER APPLY OIL TO THESE GEARS". I was also told this by a couple of retired Singer Repairmen. Certain videos in the playlists I mentioned are about how and where to put oil and grease on the machines if you'd rather see it in a "how-to" video. Don't be upset about what happened. You are not the first or last, I'm sure. It's better you form and start a plan to properly protect those gears. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much. I shall get those gears cleaned and properly greased before I use it again.
@@ruthkirkparick3535 Sure. You may be able to spot clean the gears without washing the whole machine. Best of luck; it's a fabulous model.
I've looked thru your videos and cannot find any info on machine foot pedals. I have an Emdeko vintage machine without a pedal. The machine is 1.3 amps and I want to buy a new one on Amazon but I don't know if I have to look for a special one or if any one will do. Thanks.
I actually have several foot pedal videos among my 550+ video library. None of them are for Emdeko machines though. I'm strickly a Singer guy and know nothing about that brand. A quick eBay search for "emdeko sewing foot pedal" came back with a few vintage pedals for sale, most of them showing about 1.2 AMPS. You can find pedals with that amperage rating, but I'd be more concerned with the cords. You may need a certain type of connector into the machine, but I don't know as I've never even seen an Emdeko machine. Doing a Google image search came back with pictures of some different style pedals. Perhaps you can find a picture of your particular model with a foot pedal showing to give you some idea of what to look for.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks
@@annesummers09 No worries. I hope it works out for you, Anne. Good Luck.
Andy, I just purchased a 403a. Runs smooth but having trouble with zigzag. #3 on the space selector does not produce a zig😃😂
Sorry... hit the wrong button... no zigzag on 3 with either center or right middle position. Have to advance to 4. Also, the needle left right center barely moves the needle shaft. I see small screws inside the door where the presser foot and needle bars are. Are these adjustment screws for left right center movements? The zigzag cam looks fine no damage there. Do you have any ideas to get the machine to zigzag properly?
OK, a lot going on there. Don't adjust anything yet, please. The width lever is connected to the Bight Amplitude and Pattern Selector part under the DIsc Driving Worm Wheel. See? A lot going on, and you don't want to adjust without knowing what is wrong. Maybe the lever is installed wrong or it's out of adjustment. When you move the lever it also positions the Needle Bar Driving Arm that moves the Needle Bar Driving Bracket (vibrating bracket) that actually positions the needle bar and makes the needle swing back and forth. Maybe one or more of those parts needs oiling, or a good cleaning, and not any adjusting. Here is my playlist of videos for model 403A ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html Looking thru some of them can give you an idea of how things should work and how to fix them if needed. You can also download a free copy of the Service Manual from this page: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
I have no idea the condition of the machine you bought. I will say that almost every vintage 403A I have purchased over the years needed cleaning and oiling at the very least. The machine is 60+ years old now, and you can imagine how much old oil, grease, grunge, and crud it has accumulated. I have found that cleaning and oiling the machine can eliminate up to 90% of problems, leaving behind one or two problems of a worn or misadjusted part that can then be easily replaced or adjusted. Those small screws inside the door that you mention are probably not going to help you unless you want to start removing parts as I show in the videos for cleaning. There are many other screws inside the machine that can adjust and position the parts WHEN NEEDED if it comes to that. Don't make the problem worse than it is. Try to see how the inside parts should be moving and if they are. The 403A playlist has 20+ videos and there is also a playlist for model 503A which is mechanically the same as your machine for the most part. It also has 20+ videos and you can find it here; ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
Answered the first part of your question. Good Luck.
My Rocketeer sometimes hangs up because when the hook race catches the thread from the needle, instead of going over the top of the bobbin, it is going UNDER the bobbin case (took me awhile to figure that out but I finally caught it in the act). I've done your video on the bobbin case. I took everything apart, cleaned and oiled and put back together but the problem is still there. Suggestions? Thanks!
Sorry that you're having a problem, Linda. Are you working on a model 404 then? I'd like to clarify the problem, please.
Did this just start happening, or is the machine new to you?
When the hook point (the race is what the bobbin case sits on) catches the needle thread it starts pulling the thread around the hook. It's actually pulling a loop of the needle thread. What I will call the top thread of that loop slides over the top of the bobbin case and bobbin as the hook rotates. The bottom thread of that loop does go under the bobbin case. These actions wrap the needle thread around the bobbin thread to form the lock stitch.
So you are saying the needle thread goes under the bobbin case. Do you mean BOTH threads of the loop are going under the case? That's unusual for sure.
Can you tell me the exact point the thread gets hung up? Like does the sewing stop? Is the thread caught on the edge of the bobbin case, bottom right corner?
Does it get wrapped around the hook itself and stop the machine?
Thread hangs can be caused by a few things (of course). Like the wrong bobbin.
Your machine (404) uses Singer class 66 bobbins with curved sides. Curved so the thread can pass over & under the bobbin case & bobbin. If you use any other bobbin you will always have hangups.
There can be a burr on the hook that catches the needle thread and slows or stops the thread from releasing.
There is a "gap" between the bobbin case and the bobbin case position bracket spring that allows the thread to pass through after release and be pulled up by the take-up lever. If that gap clearance is too tight the thread will hang there after the hook goes by. Then the hook grabs another thread and it hangs on the first, etc.
Some of the hooks have a delint pin that can catch the thread under the edge of the hook and create a big bird's nest of thread. So that's why I'm asking for more info. I have videos for some of these situations and if you can tell me more I can recommend better.
You are welcome to post pictures/videos on your channel or somewhere online so we can see what your machine is doing.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. Just wanted to let you know that I solved the problem. I broke down and took it to the sewing machine repair person and all I needed to do was loosen the tension screw on the front of the bobbin case. Easy-peasy! Hope you are well.
@@lindaestes8261 I'm glad you have the problem resolved. Thanks for the feedback. Good to know. When you first said ""I've done your video on the bobbin case. I took everything apart, cleaned and oiled and put back together but the problem is still there"" I thought you meant this video for the bobbin case ua-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/v-deo.html It must have been very frustrating and it's nice you have a good repair person locally. Happy sewing.
@@andytubesewing1953 AHA! It looks like had I done this video, I would have solved the problem a long time ago. I will be watching it tonight. No, I did "Oiling the hook and bobbin case . . ." One of the things I appreciate about your videos is that you teach the names of things. Which I clearly have not learned properly yet. But I'll get there, little by little. Thanks for your work
@@lindaestes8261 No worries, you are doing great. I'm happy you work on your machines to keep them in service. I just take things literally is all. Besides, I have 550+ videos on my channel, and no one has watched all of them. The important thing is you fixed it. Thanks for watching my channel, and take care.
I’ve done the same thing...oiled that hole and the oil never goes anywhere. Also put a pin in and seems to go nowhere. Thanks for this!
So, I wasn't the only one then? Haha, mystery solved. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Det er en godt utført jobb
usen takk, og for å se på kanalen min.
TusenTakk
@@ahmadhameed1472 Velkommen. En sidehistorie her, vær så snill. Da jeg var lærling i kommunikasjonsbransjen, var treneren av norsk herkomst. Mens han jobbet på en stolpe, sang han ofte "10.000 svensker løp gjennom ugresset som ble jaget av en nordmann". Ha det fint; vær trygg.
Du er kul, som det norske folk ... og søt også ...
my 500a had a little piece of cork? in the hole. it was so dry it fell out i wonder if it is supposed to be there ?
Nope. There should not be anything in the oil except oil. The manual shows to put a drop there and the parts list/diagram says/shows nothing about any cork on the machine.
Great video!
🙂🙏
Hi Andy. I know I’m being a pest! Sorry. I just tried to replace the light bulb in my 401A. It doesn’t fit. I goes in the socket but will not turn to lock in? Any suggestions?
Were you following one of my videos about the LED bulb? Just so I'm clear, are you saying the LED bulb will not rotate or turn AT ALL when you put it in? Or do you mean you can push in the bub and turn it but it won't "lock" into place?
@@andytubesewing1953 the bulb goes all the way in but not far enough to turn in the ridges that lock it in. The contacts on the bulb are too thick from what I can tell. 1/16”. Not much, but enough that it won’t turn into the locking groves?
@@judithwise4997 When I first started buying LED bulbs for vintage Singer machines many of them would not fit properly. What I found was they had a flange where the metal met the silicone lite pats that prevented full insertion into the socket and the pins would not reach the slots to twist the pins into. Maybe yours is like that, IDK. Some of them had a wide plastic base between the metal and silicone parts that caused the same problem. For a few years, I knew of two sellers who sold LED bulbs without a metal flange or wide base, but they both closed their shops. Here is an example of a bulb that should work from a trusted seller.
www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/led-light-bulb/products/led-light-bulb-push-in-type-19-32-base
I also bought directly from China at a big discount but 10 bulbs (for the price of 3 in the USA) The mail is slow (like 2 weeks) but I got them. I gave a few as stocking stuffers a couple years back to friends who have Singer machines.
I have Merritt 159 sewing machine and it’s vertical gear is broken.i have new gear but I don’t know how to fix it.please tell me how to do it thanks
I've never seen that model here. I did find that you can download the instruction manual from SInger (manual W159) www.singer.com/search/support?title=159 I made a video for replacing the top gear on the vertical shaft if that is what you mean ua-cam.com/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/v-deo.html The body of the 159 is different and may not have access to the gear from the front or rear. For those types of models, you usually have to remove the gear from the top of the machine, AFTER removing the horizontal arm shaft and many of the parts and shafts connected to it. It's a workout. I tried but failed, to find a Service Manual for your machine. Sometimes they have instructions for changing the top gear. Sorry, I can't help you more than that.
👍🏻 antother nice video
Thanks very much🙏
Nice. Purrs like a kitten.
Smooth, baby, smooth 👍 Thanks for watching my channel and take care.
Thanks!
You're so generous Ralph. Thank you very much. 🙏
You've been a great help for me Andy. I return to your videos often. Thank you.
And you’ve never been arrogant.
😊 and I'm really relieved by this comment, hehe. Thanks so much.
Thats 3-5 dB of difference, in translation - half or even quarter as loud!
Did not know that! Thanks for sharing, Stefan, and for watching my channel.
I could hear the difference on the video. Much less clatter after the oiling.
Cat mesin nya masih mulus.. Kok bisa rusak ya,
Tidak ada cat pada mesin / motor. Apakah saya salah paham? Cat pada badan mesin jahit dapat kusam dan hilang kilaunya karena pembersih KrudKutter digunakan dalam konsentrasi yang kuat, atau bahkan pada larutan 15% jika dibiarkan menempel pada cat untuk waktu yang lebih lama.