Will Synthetic Motor Oil Cause Engine Seal Leaks? Let's find out!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
- Conventional Shell Rotella T4 15W-40 compared to Full Synthetic T6 5W-40 for causing engine seal leaks in a 45 year-old Ford 5000 tractor. I bought the oil used in this video and do not have any sponsors. Thank you very much for supporting the channel by watching the commercials and through Patreon support. / projectfarm
Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
Rotella T6 5W-40: amzn.to/31ksBHf
Videography Equipment:
Sony DSC-RX10 III Cyber-shot Digital Still Camera: amzn.to/2YdXvPw
Canon 70D Camera: amzn.to/31b5Gy0
Azden Microphone: amzn.to/34d3DLE
Go Pro Bundle: amzn.to/31aince
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This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC - Навчання та стиль
People should take notes on how he does videos.
Straight and to the point, no clickbait or unnecessary talking to fill time. Thank you.
AND per his closing statement "so does synthetic oil cause oil leaks in older engines? well not in the case of my 45 year old tractor. that was a sample size of one." he understands this is just one experiment and is simply giving you his experience with a detailed list of events. basically, scientific experiments because he is doing the same steps that are required for one.
Main reason I stop watching other videos is when another project farm pops up. I know I'm about to learn something and it will not be a waste of time! Man, the effort put into making these vids is phenomenal!!!
I do love his style... But 5min of mowing certainly couldn't be considered filler lol
Actually I enjoyed seeing the mowing part. Living in the city how many people do you think have seen how they use tractor to do it. Always enjoy the video. Let's compare the drones taking the video please.
K N Plus the way that he pours oil into the beakers,
.. no spill☝️ even to the edge
The only true UA-camr who doesn’t click bait actually sees people’s comments ideas and does them. It may take him awhile but he does see them and comments on them thanks for being such a great UA-camr!
Thank you very much!!
@@ProjectFarm Respect is where respect is due.
@@ProjectFarm I like to know as i'm wondering where Rotella stands on the list (in the competition) of all the oils that where tested.One more thing Project Farm if i may advise....can you do a list on a big white board (to make it really clear to us viewers) of all the oils you did and show which oil is the best for friction,heat evapourating process and cold flow test in order as they're all different and some are better in the winter than others but fail on the evap test.So viewers can determine what oil to use if eg. If they live in freezing temp,hot temps and also wants to know the best anti wear protection for the summer and for the winter.Good idea? P.S Getting close to the 1M subs mate.Respect from the UK.
I have a 48 year old Harley and if it didn't leak oil I would be worried.
Tardeli costantini hello, but do theu still sell HOLTS , car products, Used to see them when I was a youngster, my dad even used to use some of them,CHEERS FROM NJ...USA. 🏴🏴🏴🇬🇧🇺🇸
I think the theory of it leaking is because a leak already exists, but the conventional oil already sludges up over time and sealed the leak. Then by adding synthetic, it penetrates and cleans out that area and therefore may start to leak again.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think you may be right, or that the synthetic is thin enough to slip through.
This aligns with what I've seen too. I run synthetic in my old Volvo turbo cars it noticeably cleans up the deposits that normally form in the camshaft area on top of the cylinder head. I've switched to synthetic on an old car that looked black and gummy in there and several months later it's squeak clean aluminum.
I spoke with Amsoil in regards to this some years back and that's exactly what it is.
Synthetic oil will not cause a seal to go bad, it only exposes a bad seal.
Typically conventional oil will create deposits and buildup and actually cause nicks and wear at the seal and as stated, end up sealing up the leak from the poor performance of the oil whereas synthetic oil comes in and cleans out all of those built up deposits exposing the leak/damaged seal. 👍
Worked for as a mechanic for years, when I was in school in 00'-02' my best teacher told us about his experience with synthetic oil. When a carbureted engine switched from conventional to syn, adjustments were required to get idle back to spec, and if sludge or deposits were hiding a bad seal, it would be revealed in short order, so be prepared...
The amount of work you put into you're videos makes you a legend and you deserve more then you get!
Thanks for the nice comment!
Can we just appreciate how he replies to 95 percent off comments at this amount of subscribers? Edit -how many likes lol
Hes the real mvp
Yes, isn't that wonderful. I was saying that a few months back. You just don't see that often on YT.
He probably has his family helping out
Hahahah right, hes replied to every comment ive made for 2 years
@Mike B allways replied to me so I say yes he does as well
What I have been told is that Synthetic oil doesn’t attack the engine seals, but instead it cleans up any engine sludge which been helping poor seals from leaking. Great video!
This is exactly it. Source: auto tech.
I've also heard somewhere that it has smaller molicules and will make it's way through where conventional oil won't.
@@BicBones yes, also the particle size is just about all the same, except the additives of course. Conventional oil varies in particle size. Maybe high quality oil removes the sludge, which is helping to seal the engine, thus causing a leak.
Synthetics reveal leaks, not cause them
Yes, exactly. It makes leaks worse; I'm not sure if it's just due to being synthetic, or simply a thinner base stock(the 5W vs 15W part).
I will say in my experience, with 7.3 IDIs... If you've got a typical older engine with weeping seals - a few drops here and there, not enough to worry about - on 15W40... do NOT use 5W40 synthetic! It's going to start leaking massively.
On the other hand, if you've resealed the motor... go ahead! It'll be fine.
This is hands down the best channel I've seen for practical, concise product analysis.
Thanks!
With all you've done to those engines during every episode, you make engine work look a lot more simple and a lot less intimidating than i originally thought. You explain things very well
Thank you very much!
I like how you popped a wheelie in the tractor
lol. Yes, heavy brush hog!
Video idea - does popping wheelies in tractors cause accelerated wear on steering components? Let's find out!
Kenny C. Ha ha ha ha!
Tractors have lots of torque.
@@grassroot011 that and the engine being part of the framework translates that torque very well no flex to soak it up
"I'm going to put the filter media in a press to squeeze the oil out" *Expects a professional hydraulic press of some sort* ... it's a vice with a couple 2x4's... Keeping it real. This is why I subscribed!
lol. Thank you!!
@@ProjectFarm Hi I've been working in the automobile business and I have 19years as a mechanic and I never heard of synthetic oil causing leaks unless they lower viscosity.
These oil leaks were an excuse used by oil companies back in the late 60’s & 70’s to keep people from switching over to synthetic, early Mobil 1 was the blamed oil. Most of the time, I found that leaks were already present, and the synthetic oil would find the path of least resistance, thus creating an oil leak that was not noticed prior by the owner or the mechanic
This man is GENIUS
@@ProjectFarm Can you review Amalie engine oil either the high mileage or full synthetic blend compared to some of your top brands? Royal Purple, Amsoil, Penzoil?
Your shear enthusiasm is so inspiring.
Thank you so much for your channel!
You are so welcome!
I am astonished at the production quality of these videos. What a well done job.
Thanks!
After working for over 40 years on all types of vehicles and support equipment (generators and air compressors) I've learned that synthetic oil use has caused leaks to start on equipment but it is not because the oil damages any component or seals; the reason these leaks start is that synthetic oils have a higher detergent content and they clean up all the dried up gunk between the seals and the shafts. these deposits are built up over years of use and they get caked on to the seals, once the synthetic oil cleans this mess up the hardened seals are not able to keep the oil in the assemblies. So the answer is NO, synthetic oil does not cause leaks, worn seals/shafts do.
Thanks for sharing.
Yup
This is what I have heard too. If you use older motor with dino oil, keep using dino oil.
Do modern synthetics contain newer detergents that also eat up older gasket and seal material in the same way a lot of older engines don't like ethanol fuel?
Saved me a bunch of typin.
Well said
I think I speak for most people when I say it's very satisfying watching your work in the field
Thank you very much! I'll try to begin adding more of that type of video footage.
I would love a tractor. It could've prevented or slowed down a fire I had on my property last month. Hunting season isn't happening for me this year.
This man puts SO much work into these videos!!
Thanks!
I don't often watch with captions, but even your captions are thorough and detailed. Thanks for making this show. You're doing great.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Drone footage: Thumbs-up! On a side note, wouldn't you love to be friends with this guy?
Never mind friends with, I’d love to BE this guy. All that land and toys to play with, and making videos about things that up til recently, I thought I was the only person this interested in lol.
Thank you very much!! I appreciate the positive comments!
I cannot imagine a better neighbor.
Idk man, he might strap you to a wheel, coat you in oil and see how much of you wears away.
Oh hell yeah. There would be many sleepless nights playing with all sorts of mechanical marvels figuring out new ways to break them.
this man has managed to make a race between oils feel exciting, well done sir!
It's content
Thank you!
Seems like watching an F1 race 🤣
More exciting than NASCAR nowadays for sure.
And start a fight ! Bonus
Your tractor is in Great shape for its age. You really take care of your equipment. Thank you for all your time and effort in these videos. We all appreciate you!
Thanks so much!
As everyone is saying - excellent, instructive videos and experiments with no fluff or wasted time. Good work. (I've converted a dozen cars and motorcycles to synthetic at low to very high mileages and no leaks that weren't already there)
Thank you very much!
I'm amazed you have a 40 year old diesel that doesn't leak oil.
And a Ford at that. I have seen new Ford tractors that leaked in less than a year.
@@joelkelly169 Yep! Perhaps they just don´t make em´like they used to.
@@darkoflight4938 very true the quality of most every produce has took a nose dive in the last couple of decades
@@joelkelly169 A lot of old things were very crummy back in the day as well. We just have a survivor ship bias because only the good old things are still around in use and the crummy ones are in the dump.
@@peterduck1204 you do have a point there
High quality synthetic oil has anti-sludge additives that can sometimes open old paths that were closed by dried sludge causing a leak. But this means that the seal was probably bad and due for replacement.
Thank you!
that makes sense.
This was pretty much my understanding of the phenomenon.
Dead-on with that one. Also, thought, as was done in this video, you can safely go to a lighter oil and still receive better protection with a full synthetic oil, and thinner oil doesn’t need as large of a gap to get a leak going.
I was taught the synthetic has a smaller molecular structure and that is what would cause the leak. If I also add in what Vlado T said and think about gaskets and seals being made stronger now. That really makes sense why leaks would've happened in the past and dot now
Would love to see an oil filter comparison test like Fram, Motorcraft, Wix, Napa Gold, AC Delco, Purolator, STP, Mopar. Always love watching product comparisons. Also notice that tractor did a wheelie(awesome)!
Thanks for the suggestion.
Real and Quality contains, no BS period. This channel is way underrated!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Those overhead shots have to be the coolest time lapse you've done ever
Thanks so much!
They were the best 👌 I didn't know they would just set there I've got to get 1 now thanks for all of your videos and time I tell so many people to watch your videos no bs and hear exactly what u came for !! Every time!!!
45yr old tractor, in "tractor years" that's about 10yrs.
These oldies are pretty much bullet proof if maintained properly.
Bullet proof? Let me get my AR15
@@Alexander-kz6es I was going to say the same thing, but unfortunately i lost mine in a tragic boating accident....
Yeah the old ones are iron giants. Much better than the new ones.
my father in law still used a 2 cilinder tractor from 1962.
I wonder where the saying - "shoot the shit" originated?
I love your videos. Very informative and to the point. Being a professional automotive technician for 40 yrs , Its nice to see someone who actually understand and takes the time to explain whats going on, an art thats lost in this day and age. With that being said, my personal 86 F250 6.9 Diesel always used a qt of oil every 500-750 miles. Oil changes done religiously at 3K. When I switched to the exact synthetic you used in this video, the truck would use 1 qt of oil every 250-300 miles. Never leaked any. After 3K miles , and 10 qts of oil added , I switched back to conventional oil and it went back to the same 1 qt every 500-750 miles. I did not notice any MPG improvement or changes in power when using the synthetic . Truck had 200K at that time. Keep up with the great videos !!
Thanks, will do. Thanks for sharing.
You’re videos are always very well done. I know that you don’t get paid by sponsors but you should. I use rotella T6 in my Jeep 4.0 and it works awesome. No leaks and the internals look very clean.
Thanks!
can we all just take a moment to appreciate the farmers of America? the life blood of the country
Thank you!
Canada as well friend.
ANF. America needs farmers
No. All workers matter. And most workers don’t get subsidies like farmers.
Is project farm from Canada? I agree all farmers should be appreciated 👌
You’ve taught me a lot more than anyone else ever could about how an engine works, what to use and what not to use and just about life in general. Thanks for teaching us all something.
Appreciate hearing! Thanks for watching.
@@ProjectFarm same here also is that a Ford 5000
You do an outstanding job on your videos. They are direct, informative and very educational in content. Two thumbs up from Kingsport, Tennessee!
Just discovered your channel. It is first-class in every way. About 18 months ago I bought a project truck 94 F250 with7.3 IDI engine. I bought it because it ran so strong. First I changed all the fluids not knowing what kind of oil was used in it before. From the time I owned it until I got the time to start working on it, I noticed it didn't have a leak of anything. First I changed the oil and went to a synthetic. Since then I have spent $$$ on body and paint. Though not many miles were put on the truck I noticed a small leak in time out of the rear seal. I put a quality stop leak additive in it but it has not stopped the leak. After seeing this video and reading the comments I now understand how the new oil may have created the leak. I've also noticed a small seeping of the valve cover gaskets that wasn't there before. I will have the repairs done because I can't stand any leaks in any of my cars. Now, I'm wondering to avoid any new leaks after the repairs should I go back to conventional oil? I don't want to create any new leaks that are not there now? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. PS there is no wonder why your channel is doing so well. Your stats are off the hook. Your hard work has really paid off. Good for you.
when I switched to synthetic oil on my 1963 KMZ (Dnepr) K750M, it did start to leak oil around the alternator, but not because the oil eat or destroyed the seal, but because it worked so well with its anti sludge properties, that the old gunked up oil around the old seal (just one big o-ring) was removes, but after replacing that seal, my engine works like a charm :P (the old seal was dry and had no elasticity left)
Thank you!
That makes complete sense. The only time I had a negative effect with synthetic oils was on my Old 93 Jeep 4.0 H.O. Was stuck out in the Trees and she started to burn oil which it never has done and knock with Amsoil 10-30. The old flat tapper camshaft didn’t like it. I switched back to shell and little STP and now 4 years later she’s started to get a Tired out with 230k Jeep miles on her. Time for a rebuild.
UA-camrs who test Oil issues in their old tractor by cutting weeds and hay on ~20 acres: Zero
Project Farm: "seemed like a logical, good test". Thanks for your incredible work!
Thank you!!
That footage of the tractor in use took me back to my teenage work. Thanks for including that. Pure magic.
You are welcome!
Would love to see a video comparing all the different best oils for Diesel engines!
Your channel is awesome!
Thank you! Thanks for the suggestion.
My experience as a mechanic: Typically, in a well maintained, or newer, or low miles/hours, or engine that started using synthetic oil early in its life, won't leak at all. Older engines, or ones with high mileage and have never used synthetic almost always leak when switching to it. Synthetic oil itself doesn't cause leaks, it simply exposes already bad seals that the conventional oil couldn't sleep through. Once you change the seals, the leaks stop. Great video as always! I especially liked the T4 and T6 comparison, thank you
I agree. It doesn't cause leaks. Makes no sense that it would.
I agree.
The oil must have lower viscocity compared vith any old oils.
That is the reason it will leak easier.
That tractor does not have worn zimmers.
My 1970 Massey 165 69 303 massey oliver super 88 99 silverado john deere 1010 doesn't leak t6 some of this equipment is over 50 years old
Put it this way if the engine has bad leaky seals it gonna leak . I use t6 in almost all my equipment diesel and gasoline aside from my Detroit 2 strokes .
I bought an '05 crown vic that did not leak, i was adamant about no leaks...
Gave it a fully synthetic change with expensive stuff. Wix filter and all..
Within 800-1000 miles she was leaking from the pan gasket half the way aroung plus other areas! SO PISSED!! Its a mint(meh nearly for 150k)
Learning the hard way sure sucks!
At least ill never forget the lesson.omg
Syntetic oil is not the primary cause of leaks. It just wash away slug from the seals and if seal are already old and lost its elasticity or damaged - it will leak. Also modern syntetic engine oils will darken faster than mineral oils, just because they washing better... just my opinion.
Also sorry for broken english and maybe typos.
Sleep or watch a oil for tractors comparison?!?
Ahh... who needs to sleep!
Thank you!
@@43mackmobile Not true.
I was a little surprised to see you add that oil additive for compression help, being a self- proclaimed skeptic of products like that, but it made me feel better cuz I do it too. Thanks Todd
Thanks for sharing. You are welcome!
A truly honest youtuber. There is a reason why his channel is so big.
Finally a oil filter reviewer that realizes that all the metals inside an engine are not magnetic. This is why I watch your channel.
If there are magnetic bits in the oil of any reasonable size, something has gone very bad internally.
You're such an awesome person and youtuber don't ever stop producing these high quality and high informative videos!
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm You are! I Love Your Videos! It's like the thing most of us mechanical types have always wondered and possibly wanted to do!
I completely agree with you!
He is an asset to the world.
He goes farther in depth that almost anyone else I've watched. I've watched a lot of other tool review channels and while they cover some details they don't actually do the tests I see done on this channel. Not only that a lot of it is somewhat contrary to what they said before. Not on this channel. Strait to the point and i don't see any bias at all. The winner is the winner. I think the only guy who goes into extreme detail is AvE but he tests things slightly different. But that being said... only 1 guy goes into more detail, out of the dozens out there... this channel is top quality stuff 👌 👏 I've watched nearly every video as they are released. These teats help me determine where to spend my hard earned money and it also saves me a lot of stress from dealing with sub par tools/equipment that would have otherwise wasted my time.
It may sound strange to some people , but l actually felt a peace come over me as l watched the tractor shredding the weeds and grass. I guess it's because it brought back memories of my granpa on a farm tractor working the land. I was a boy and enjoyed those long, peaceful days, sitting under the huge oak tree watching the tractor go by. Thanks Project Farm . I really enjoy your videos, extremely informative. God bless.
Thanks so much!
Hands down best videos on UA-cam!! Tells u exactly what you want to hear every time!! Not about what is going on with the cat and dog and every body else that walks in the videos thanks for that 100% 👍
Thanks so much!
Can we all take a moment to appreciate the fact that this guy can operate a tractor and fly a drone at the same time! Lol 👍
Thank you for the video idea!
@@ProjectFarm lol wut
@@ProjectFarm bot mode activated
Welker Farms does it all the time :P
You can set up a flight plan for the drone or a follow me as well.
So, synthetic motor oils that cause “leaks” are generally from the effectiveness of synthetics cleaning varnish/gel on neglected engines. Any wear or leaks may have just been masked.
Also, still would love to see synthetic show-down on the new 0w-16 Toyota/Honda/Mobil one stuff and same for 0w-20 OEM oil from the Japanese imports compared to each other and high ends like valvoline advanced syn, penzoil ultra platinum, amsoil etc
Correctamundo sir!
I run 0W16 WalMart (Warren) Full Synthetic oil and Wix filter for my Japanese Engine, and it has held up amazingly well. I do 5,000 miles with mine and it is still rather clean for 5k when I change it. It has taken the roughness out of the engine from when I had to run 5W20 in it and my fuel mileage when up to 43mpg avg as my trips are about 75% highway miles.
Did i just watch Farming Simulator? 10:36
He already did the oil challenge.... forgot who the winner was
That is not entirely true. Seal polymers change volume depending on the chemicals that are exposed to. Synthetic oil tend to swell seals less than mineral oil. For this reason some suppliers add "seal swellers" to the oil so the problem is completely gone. This is an issue that was relevant 30 years ago. Modern seals tend to behave better with synthetic oils.
This is the testing we need to see if these products ACTUALLY WORK! Thanks for putting in the time! Love your channel and have for quite some time!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I enjoy your videos, very informative and I like the lengths that you go to show the difference between products.
Thank you!
the horse race like announcing for the cold oil race was perfect.
Thank you!
Horse races start after 7:05
I can’t believe the amount of work that went into making this video. The drone shots/editing in particular are amazing! Love this channel!!
Thank you!
@Alex I was thinking that too. I was thinking to myself he must have a dozen or more episodes in the making at any given time! Lol
@@ProjectFarm you really have a lot of time on your hands huh? Nice work.
Ain't nothing worth doing if you ain't gonna do it right
@@ProjectFarm Why do you have large fields of wild grass and brush? I'm confused. Wouldn't this attract a lot of insects?
Does livestock go out there? And those aren't alfalfa fields, are they?
No offense, but this is what my family referred to as a hillbilly farm or a rich city slicker farm for recreation and dirt bikes etc. And yeah, they were kill joys. Haha
It doesn't seem like the most ideal land management. If they are wild meadows which are only cut ocassionaly, do you spray for insects? The mosquitos this would attract would annoy the hell out of me. I'm itching just looking at it.
Great video testing as usual. Have a 96 exmark mower, 2004 Kubota L48 TLB and a 2011 F250 diesel. All after breaking used mobile one syn, 2 years ago switched to T-6 have had no problems. The backhoe is a bit quieter. The Ford runs about 4 degrees cooler and also use it in my snowblower and stand by generator. No complaints. Thx, your very informative.
Great video, you put so much work into each one, serious respect!
I think synthetic oil is perfectly fine to use, in the heavy equipment industry we use synthetic (sometimes T6 actually) in everything including old equipment with tens of thousands of hours.
Thank you!
It really is crazy how much work he does for each video (some more than others of coarse) and the money he lays out is crazy. I’m positive in many of his vids he looses money.
This is by far one of the best channels on UA-cam. No bs straight forward and to the point. Keep up the great work.
Thanks!
THAT'S YOUR OPINION ONLY
Amazing how much the production quality has improved over the years. This is one of my favorite channels!
Thank you!
Best channel out there. Great real world information. Lots of hard work goes into this and great content. Thank you and keep making videos.
Thanks, will do!
PF, I can honestly recommend your vids to ANYONE who loves Science. Thanks for all you do here. Can I ask, while you were out doing the fieldwork, who was it that was operating the drone? And some of those shots really made me smile too!
I have been using synthetics since I got my drivers licence back in 1976, Back when Mobil 1 was about the only synthetic oil out there. Back then everyone said don't use it your engine will leak oil and your bearings will go bad, well none of that happened. In 79 I was in the U.S.A.F. stationed in northern Main after a blizzard and temps well below -35F my jeep with Mobil 1 in it was the only car in the barracks parking lot that started.
Eugene Tuorto Just a better breed of oil from the beginning. Thanks for sharing this, I didn’t know that we’d had synthetics commercially available since the ‘70s.
@@Cjbarker2 from my research, Mobil1 was the first full synthetic in '74, however a semi-synthetic was first offered by Motul in 1966
Justin Noker Neat! I’ve never thought to research oils like that, but new information is always cool to find. Thank you!
@@Cjbarker2 Mobil 1 used to have a commercial with a famous football player trying to hold the end of a screw driver dipped in Mobil 1 , I will have to see if I can find it on YT.
Good old Loring AFB. I was born in Presque Isle. Great memories even though I was never in the AF.
I am far from a professional, however work in the automotive industry. I like the video. The general consistence on synthetic oils is they do not cause leaks. Leaks observed after switching from a conventional to a synthetic oil are results of the detergents and additive package cleaning up sludge and deposits with in the engine. This added to the fact that synthetic oils are designed to flow better results in existing small leaks to become more obvious.
I think also this issue was a lot more common in the 80s when people were just starting to try synthetic oil, in cars that already had a few miles on them. Back then everything had a rear main seal leak after 75k miles!😂
Yes thank you
Thank you!
Sure, the car had leaks with conventional oil, it's just that it had a lot more deposits that clogged the holes, so you couldn't see the leaks. With syntetic you're just removing those deposits, and then leaks can occur.
A customer of mine in Owasso, OK, has a Ford Powerstroke Diesel, 7.3L with over 325,000 miles; he began using AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 15w-40 Diesel (DME) at 200,000 miles and still no leaks. Another very happy end-user. Thanks Scott.
You even make mowing look cool on UA-cam! I switched from dyno oil to T6 in my 7.3L international motor years ago with no issues.
Thanks for sharing.
Oh man during the mowing montage I could feel my sinuses closing up and eyes watering Lol
Lol
I feel you bro... Project Farm you're so Lucky you don't have allergies.
On my 36+ years old Audi the synthetic oil didn't start a leak, also when switching from partially to 100% synthetic on my 15 years old BMW it didn't start any leaks!
Keep the good video coming mate, I love your videos.
Thank you!
Your BMW doesn't leak? I don't buy it... lol
Both cars are way to young. "Old" means in regards to possible sealing issues due to synthetic oil - pre WWII ans slightly after... till the 1960s max.
@@Slazlo-Brovnik 30 years is considered antique in the car world. Different engine compression and material plus different seals are used since the 80s - 90s and up to 2000 cars have changed alot. For this type of test it doesn't need to be an engine from the 60s-
@@fragglefknrock7568 Sorry - but ... no.
The question is not if a car of this and that age is considered "antique" or not, this is just a word. The question is why exactly synthetic oil might be a problem. And that is the case because of some seal-materials used in older cars. These seals can be damaged by synthetic oil. I could go a bit more in the details here but unfortunately I do not know the english technical terms for the materials etc. in question (I am German).
Basically the design features in question have been in use prior WWII and maybe a bit after that. More or less those seals (and some other design aspects such as the absence of an oil-filter) are not in use anymore since the early 60s. Of course stuff changed from 80s -90s to today, but for the question at hand that does not matter - the important change was done way before that.
So again: Regarding the question "How old must an engine be, so that synthetic oil may be harmful to it" the answer is: It must be build prior ca. 1965.
Okay, there is ONE possible issue with that statement, and that is: I am talking about European engines. It may be that in the US those older designs where used longer. But I doubt that. And even if: Not into the 80s.
And BTW: Project Farms test just kinda supports my statement, don't you think?
Best channel on UA-cam. Hands down!!!
I cannot wait for new content!!! Thanks man
Thanks!
Another great video. Never waste my time watching project farm!
Thanks so much!
I love how you've evolved your tests to increase accuracy in these comparisons, like in the bearing test. Keep up the great highly informative work!
i was just about to comment this, its awesome to see it change over time
This “myth” has never stopped me from using synthetic in anything. Synthetic is pretty much always better than regular oil so I try to take advantage of that
Thank you!
Always go synthetic it makes a huge difference. I even use synthetic in my commercial lawn mowers and snowblowers, it’s amazing how much longer the oil stays a light amber color. When I would use conventional sae 30 it would turn black in 1 day or less.
Also much easier cold starts when the temps are low in spring and fall on the larger engines on the zero turns. Used to kill batteries cranking in the morning start at least once a week on something, now never.
It lasts longer thats it.if you change your oil often there is no need for it.you can change the oil on 12k km intervals with syntetic.
I use both depending on the budget.you can switch from syntetic to regular without any harm to an engine..i tested it since 25yrs allways done it on all of my engines
@@Alex-us2vw for the cold starts being easier its about the grade of oil not syntetic vs regular.
The oil only lasts longer
While synthetic oil won't create a leak, it will find one. That being said, additives can help with leaks. A temporary solution for minor leaks.
Thank you for sharing your incredible life with us. I now understand why you're in such good shape.
You are so welcome!
Many thanks for yet another truly imaginative, and scientific test. It reassures me I did something right long ago.
I discovered Rotella T6 at a farm implement store near my home at a slightly lower price than the Mobil One I had been using. I have used it in my 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD diesel for the past 14 years. The engine has no oil leaks except for an oil separater that is part of the EGR system. I have to change that frequently or it loads up and begins to leak down the back of the engine. That is not the fault of the T6 oil.
That little diesel engine now has 250,000 miles and is the quietest diesel I have ever heard.
It is a 2.8 Liter four cylinder with 16 valves, turbo and intercooler. It was made in Italy by Vito Motori, and imported for use in the Liberty. It creates 300 lbs of torque at just 2,000 rpm. Vito Motori was already building the engine for use in Europe, they have their own foundry so quality control is an easy issue. It was mostly used in commercial trucks similar to our UPS vehicles. Chrysler added the turbo in an attempt to keep the American market happy.
Chrysler had planned to continue building it for several years but could only do so for two years since the EPA came down on them for emissions. The problem was the fuel. Diesel producers were slow at getting all the fuel down to the ultra low limit of sulfur at the pumps. I suppose it requires extra refining to reach ultra low sulfur ratings. Since the higher sulfur content would not pass EPA standards, and the oil companies could not guarantee owners would be faithful to avoid using the high sulfur fuel in the Liberty, Chrysler had to cancel the Liberty diesel after only two years, 2005 and 2006.
That is a shame because only a year or two later all the diesel I saw was then at the ultra low sulfur level.
The 5W40 synthetic is what was recommended in the owners manual. My Jeep has started in minus ten degree weather when a few gas powered cars would not. It really rattled like I have never heard before. Scared me such that I was ready to shut it off but then thankfully, it quieted down.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I liked his expensive and highly technical press that he used on the oil filter pleats.
lol. Thank you!
No wonder he has a life supply of lawnmowers, Dude has got lot of grass to cut!
lol. Great point!
As they say.... the more the merrier!
@@raybin6873 you mean to say ..... the mow the merrier!
@@VerifyVeracity - har har har! I stand updated!!! 🇺🇲
That's a biiiiiiiiggggg lawn!!! Huge! Massive!
Great video! I buy all kinds of old vehicles that have been sitting and I revive them and keep them going. I always change oil as a start to any of them and usually run a cheaper conventional oil first then switch to a good quality synthetic after a few hundred miles. I've never seen a leak start from synthetic oil. Even the other day I asked for an oil change kit as my local parts store and the guy behind the counter asked if I'd always used synthetic in it. First time I was ever asked that. He said they can cause leaks and honestly I'd never heard that before. I told him I'll take the risk based on my years of the same routine! Thanks for this video!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Never had a leak and I switch to full synthetic on all my vehicles when I get them. Love your channel, thanks for all you do.
Thanks and you are welcome!
The amount of time you put into this videos for our joy is just remarkable. Keep up the good content and the good work! Cheers from Sweden
Wow, thank you!
Yes, he is the man!!!
That overhead view from drones was AMAZING, awesome time lapse footage and excellent testing setup as usual, you my friend are a UA-cam must watch.
Thank you!
First class video. First class comparison and evaluation. This is the standard to match. Thank you
You are welcome!
Yesss! Thank-you for doing this test. Interesting results. I have a '99 Dodge Cummins, it seems every time I go to Synthetic, (3 times) I get a #1 injector seal compromise, and have excessive fuel transfer to engine oil pan reservoir. I surmised, that the only difference was using synthetic. Back to T6 next change and continue exploration. Thanks much!
You are welcome!
When you opened that oil filter I saw a large chunk of metal, thought "Oh Man your tractor is toast!" Turned out to be a chunk of dust on my laptop screen. Please keep these great videos coming!
Thank you for the feedback
Old radial aircraft engines were expected to have chunks every oil change. 1-2mm isn't uncommon.
Granted, those have a stack of mesh screens, not actual paper material.
That's just the screen filter doing it's job.
This was very interesting. I just watched this with our mobile 1 engineer and reliability department at a gold mine in northern Ontario. We thought it was great, thanks
Thank you very much!
Awesome Video!! Your videos are always entertaining and very informative. Great Job!!
Thank you very much!
I don’t own a tractor, but somehow you kept interested in information I have no use for. Thank you. Great video.
Thanks 👍
With any research, this is a myth; the reverse is actually true, as older synthetic oils were made on different processes, that resulted in a more corrosive oil. But newer production processes have been refined to produce far less corrosive synthetic oils.
If anything, a few rounds of modern synthetic oil in an old engine can reveal previously existing leaks that a few larger particles out of the refined oil had previously clogged.
Thank you!
Which I believe still causes it to leak when it hadn't before, correct?
It may not be the cause of the leak directly, but it still leaks with synthetic oil in it.
I've heard that conventional oil will leave deposits much more easily and that new synthetic oil will clean out there gunk exposing the bad seal that had been there to begin with.
Synthetic oil is by far a superior product today
Yup correct, I think i may have made the suggestion for this video so it's awesome he's done it. I changed a few times on my 2002 Acura RSX between Mobil 1 full synthetic and regular mobil 1 and have not run into any issues. Car had 180k miles before i sold it and had zero leaks.
I love how much thought you put into the process and how much work you do for just a 12 min video. This video must of tool weeks to make
Thank you very much!
A deal is a deal you won my subscription and earned my respect 👊
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I have learned so much from this badass dude... I am 63 and trust me I have been around the block.....
Thanks!
that overhead view of the hay field getting mowed was really cool!
Thank you! I love baling hay.
Synthetic oil causing leaks is a myth. Conventional oil tends to have far fewer detergents and dispersants than synthetic oil, and it also tends to contain more impurities. This means that conventional oil will be both more susceptible to sludge buildup and less capable of removing said sludge and keeping it suspended in the oil to be removed by the filter. Conventional oil is also more volatile than synthetic oil of the same viscosity, which means that as the conventional oil is heated the "lighter" components of the oil are boiled away leaving behind a thicker oil. This happens to some degree with synthetic oil as well, but as you could see from the oil pour test it has a much greater impact on the conventional oil's viscosity. This thickening phenomenon is one of the reasons why they have you change your oil at regular intervals, and why your vehicle's owner's manual says to change it more often if you put your vehicle through more heavy duty use cases, like towing or racing, since your engine will run hotter for longer in those uses. Synthetic oil's resistance to this thermal breakdown is one of the reasons you can go longer between oil changes when using synthetic oil.
Putting all of this together, an engine running conventional oil will have more sludge buildup and the oil will get thicker the longer it is in the engine. These two things work together to mask any marginal oil seals that are on their way out and would otherwise be leaking. Once you make the switch to synthetic oil the extra detergents help clean the sludge out and the "thinner" synthetic oil will begin to seep out through the areas that were previously plugged with sludge, exposing the bad seals. If the engine had been somewhat neglected before the switch to synthetic and hadn't been getting oil changes on time, or if it was operated in particularly wet environments (water in the oil is one of the sources of sludge), then the amount of leaking after the switch can be significant. If, however, the vehicle was well maintained with on time oil changes at the appropriate intervals for your use case, then the engine likely won't exhibit any leaks when switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil.
So the engine would be in poor condition either way, you simply would learn about it sooner and in less disastrous a fashion then, is that correct?
@@EgorKaskader More or less, yes. If you switch from conventional to synthetic oil (keeping the same viscosity) and start noticing leaks that weren't there before the switch, then you likely have oil seals that were going bad, but too much sludge had built up in the worn areas to allow much oil to leak out before the extra detergents in the synthetic oil cleaned out the sludge. If this is the case, then the oil seals are likely to need replacement, though sometimes it's the shaft the seal rides on that is worn or scratched and that actually needs to be replaced. Either problem though could have been masked by sludge buildup.
@@r.j.bedore9884 In my experience, it's not so much sludge buildup as probably the thinner viscosity you 'get' with typical synthetic - going from 15w40 conventional to 5w40 synthetic, for instance. I did try it on a slightly weeping engine(very typical, and something that would work for years this way) and, well, those leaks became *massive*. After losing two quarts in a couple hundred miles, I threw in some Lucas to thicken it up, changed the oil back to conventional at like 3K miles, and the oil leaks dropped back to a 'nominal' level... and I'm pretty sure that engine is still in working shape to this day.
(on a freshly-rebuilt engine with new seals, I ran synthetic with no noticable leaks at all)
@AUDIO MAN you don't have a brand new 80 trans am, that would be an almost 40 year old car.
kinda wrote a huge oxymoron, " synthetic oil causing leaks is a myth...if, however, the vehicle was well maintained..." which is it ?
switching to a synthetic oil in an engine that doesn't leak because of sludge build up really doesn't matter, the detergents can clean
up a little but are more meant to maintain a clean engine by stopping sludge before it starts, not even the solvents in an engine flush
would clean out sludge build up. Perhaps more than synthetic oil but not enough to unclog a leaky seal, under the sludge is varnish
that would need walnut blasting to remove.
I have a 20 yr old truck Chevy 2500 HD ive owned since new w/ 178k mi. and used synthetic the last 10 yrs, no new leaks but it has been weeping from rear seal for also about 10 yrs, but doesn't leak enough to even leave a drop on the ground. I am hooked on these videos. Thank you.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Love the drone footage, your content is the most useful i've seen
Man, I’ve always appreciated this channel for the large amount of unbiased detailed information. But after watching this, there is even MORE detailed information and facts that I have never considered. Project Farm has been and always will be the most awesome UA-cam channels out there. Thank you.
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm , I couldn't agree more with Jimmy. I don't know if you follow Shanna Simmons ( research engineer for Shell Oil) on UA-cam. I think you will find her results pretty close to yours.
I've never actually heard this before, thanks for the insight
Thank you!
Need a diesel oil showdown!! Only channel I trust when looking at products! Thank you!
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
There are so many UA-cam channels out there, but if there were such a thing as a UA-cam Hero, this guy is mine. He test things we are curious about. His test are not influenced by money. I try to not miss a video and as a gunsmith, I have shared some of his videos to my gun shop’s Facebook page. Please keep up the great work. Just one question, what software do you use to edit and make your videos?
I really love how utilitarian your channel is, and it’s filmed very well too. I must admit I’ve taken inspiration from you while getting my own channel going. Thanks for your awesome content!
Thank you very much!!
You're the only youtuber I turn my adblocker off for. Thank you for all you do! I know this takes a lot of time and money and I appreciate it. I dont have any video recommendations because you've been so good at picking up the ones I would want to see but didn't even realize I wanted to see it until you did it!
Thank you very much! It helps! I've got some very high cost videos on the way. Thanks again!
Keep your adblocker on and support him directly through Patreon. He'll make a buck a month that way instead of a few cents.
@@evilutionltd well said
@@evilutionltd I have reasons not to use patreon. However, if everyone switched to brave browser we could avoid this whole conversation.
Just got an old diesel truck and you’ve answered 2 of my questions with this video and you’re anti gel video 👍
Great to hear!
Very helpful content. I use shell T4 in my marine diesel for few years now. Always wondered about its properties.
Thank you for the great work.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Years ago, I swapped the oil in 2 350 Chevrolets, one from 1970 and the other from 1986) to synthetic. No leaks.
Great information. Thank you
This is exactly what I was looking for. Looking to change the oil in my 88 malibu boat chev 350 soon
Ester based actually should do the opposite given it swolles the gaskets and rubber, it's more sticky.... the only reason for it to make a leak is if the chemistry of the rubber is incompatible or the gaskets
I always like your testing, very impressive and thoughtful.
I started using synthetic oils in the late '70s, Mobil 1. That was because of military experience with them in jets.
The "leaks" are generally from older motors, that have used conventional oils and there is "sludge" build up. This generally collects in recessed areas of seals. Due to the improved detergent action of syn-oils, and ability to flow freely, the gunk that was actually acting like a plug gets cleaned out and that is the leak source.
Mobil had a great series of informative articles that compared natural and syn oils after very high mileage and hard service uses (taxis) and compared cleaning actions. You may be able to find those.
Didn't expect tractor to leak, however get an old Ford with 300k on it and try the same test with a normal 3000 mile test, you may see something there
Keep up the tests, really enjoyable, like AvE and Big Clive
Thank you
This is exactly what I was going to say! GMTA!
Ah great I tried T6 in a 150k 5.8L Windsor engine and it runs good but burns a bit. Back to the Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w-30 I reckon, hopefully that'll pack some sludge back in there
That's what I've always heard but I don't buy it. Anyway, gunk plugging up holes means gunk messing with the rest of the engine too.
@@KingAdrock420 I am thinking back a long time ago, cork gaskets and Permatex, and Pennzoil.
Lots of build up. Mobil did tests and synthetic oil had superior cleaning and they did not reccomend on high time motors. They even advertised you could run that oil for a year, just replace the filter at recommended intervals and top up the oil. I did that on my Toyota , a 1977 Corolla and drove the snot out of it. I had an oil temp gauge too and it ran cooler, lower friction?
Nice video and professionally tested. Thank God this video is made
Thanks!
Anytime i want to know something.. i check to see if project farm has a video on it first.. i trust this man
Thank you very much!