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How to make solder ended cables
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- Опубліковано 1 чер 2013
- In this video i show how i make my own soldered ball cable ends.
I'm a horrible narrator so keep that in mind when i stutter or breathe into the Mic. Lol
FYI about solder. "Silver solder" used to mean solder with real silver in it. Silver solder is very strong like brazing but works at a much lower temp. And it's not cheap. Think brass clock parts. Now anything silver colored is called "Silver solder" but people in the trades should know the difference.
Traditional solder is a mixture of tin and lead. The percentage of each different for different purposes. Lead not being so hot for our health, most solders now are non-lead.
For this purpose, plumbers solder will work fine. Or make a visit, if you have one, to a local bike shop and ask if you can scrounge some ends off discarded cables. Some bicycle cables are leaded (yes, old term) on both ends and one gets clipped off and pitched.
I really like the jig you made up. Had an old ski-doo and needed a throttle cable. Over $40 for an aftermarket. A $6 pedal bike derailleur cable had the perfect end for the carb slide. I used the ends of the old throttle cable and made a solder barrel for the thumb throttle side and presto; cheap replacement. I could have used an old derailleur cable from the kids bike; but $6 and a clean cable seemed worth it.
Thanks, I'm glad you like it!
I did find that most of my other cables (hood, choke, heater control) were easy to replace with bicycle cables.
Actually, I think I only paid $15 for all of my cables together in a 10speed overhaul kit.
I just measures them out, cut them to length, and made my own ends.
Really nice jig. Enjoy watching and learning neat tricks
U could use 2 smaller plates, drill the solder hole completely through both, then use a 3rd plate to cover the end so you don't get that rounded drill bit tip end on your solder barrel. Drill the cable hole the same way. :) GREAT VID and your narration is better than most!
Thank you for posting this. Got me out of a jam on an engine swap when a different throttle cable end was needed.
Wally Anderson Wow! I’m really glad it helped your project.
I gotta tell ya, i've watched about 7 or 8 of these"how to do your own solder end" videos and yours was by far the best. it was efficient, concise, and simple-brilliant all around! Sure, you shoulda/could told what kind of solder, but i see you fixed that in the comments.. but anyhoo, thanks!
Thanks man, saved me buying a new clutch cable for the bike. Way to easy.
How did the cable hold up its bin a couple years i have to fix my harley but im a lil nerv that it will come off
Hah hah, chisel in name only!
Excellent... This will help my clutch cable debacle.
Thanks 👍 you no your stuff okay Dave thanks
If you go to an auto body supply they sell a tinning compound for doing lead work on cars. This compound will cause the solder to physically stick to your cable instead of jut encapsulating it.
If you don't want it to rip out, you had better fray each strand of your cable and bend each around in a tiny circle so that it forms a ball inside the lead-tin casting.
rstevewarmorycom that’s an excellent suggestion., however ...because my application was a throttle cable and not a brake or clutch cable I didn’t feel the need to get crazy on the splaying/fraying of the cable end.
If you feel the cable may pull out from the force of your application, You probably want to look into another termination method.
@@SigmazGFX
That's true, but the only time I tried that for a motorcycle clutch cable, it pulled out, and I was tired of it so I bought a new one. I cut open the end on the one that broke and melted the lead off with a torch and the cable was done as I described. It was the cable itself that frayed in my case.
Quality vid. Ive got a brass motorcycle windscreen barrel nut with the rubber bit removed which ill fill up with solder tomorrow out here in the 3rd world.
Just an fyi plumbers flux is corrosive. Even non acidic plumbers flux will end up contaminating the solder. As will any solder wire for plumbing. Even if it is an acid free rosin. Core. Just a heads up in case that would matter for some.
u can get solder pots on amazon now for 25 bucks, I got some kester pure 60/40 solder in bar form for 36 bucks, u can find the solder cheaper, it's a good setup to have in the shop, can use it for electronics work too.
Way better than the wood version!
Great idea
Great video, thanks for bringing it back. How about a video showing the style end on a cable.How to make a jig for one, thanks.
I know there should be some type of official "use this type of solder" but I just used big thick plumbing solder.
Thanks for checking it out!
SigmazGFX use the 50/50 or 40/60 lead tin solder WITHOUT flux core
Thanks Kerry! I appreciate the info.
I think this roll was labeled "Silver Solder"
But it's been a long time since that video was made I can't really remember anymore..
Just make sure that you Flux the crap out of the end of the wire before you pot it so the solder will flow into all the wires
Got that right!
thanks for sharing Sir.
Nice work this will help me a lot. Thank you
Glad I could help Ian.
in your opinion do you think break/parts cleaner would work to clean a previously used/greased cable ?? going to try your method. looks way better than the wood method.
thanks for the video.
Thanks man.. yeah... the wood method is kind of messy...
I don't see any reason why brake parts cleaner wouldn't work.
I would only suggest waiting to solder the cable until after the cleaner has dried.
Good luck man, I'd love to see your finished product.
I use bolts. Find the right size, cut, drill hole for cable, drill hole for set screw, tap bolt for set screw . This will not pull out nor will it wear as solder does.
can you do a stress test on the cable see how much force till it breaks?
The cables I did this for were throttle cables and hood latches These applications are fairly light duty. If you wish to repair a clutch cable or brake cable then you'd most likely need to use a more rugged material than lead/tin. BTW these cables have not failed yet.
great stuff! Thanks!
Good idea . Would be much stronger if the cable was splayed out at the end before assembly and soldering.
Hey wonderful. Please tell me all the tools and chemicals you used.
Right after you got the solder to ball over, you should have used a real cotton rag soaked with water to cool the item. The solder will harden almost instantly. The you just take the gig apart and do some finish touches and you are done. Good day too.
great vid
You can actually buy screw clamp ends, which is what I'll be trying for my bicycle brake cable, cos don't like throwing old cable away. Not sure how effective that will be though.
What kind of solder to use when making a van sliding door cable ends?
Must be strong as well as its tge only thing that will hold the cable in place at the pulley.
FlipSide Garage If you browse the comments there have been several suggestions pointing to silver solder for maximum strength.
It sounds like your application may call for that . Idk how big your door cable is, but you should be able to scale up this method with stronger materials and a bigger flame (woo hoo!) if it’s just the cable that actuated the latching mech silver solder will do you right.
If it’s a cable under spring tension to support the door, you may want to reconsider replacing it with new. Safety first after all, lol.
i bought a screw post extension and drilled a hole in the side, put the cable through the hole and spread out the wires then filled the thing with solder and cut to width.
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome!
I looked at the other comment 3 years ago hey man you're saved my bacon on my Chopper man I'm out of cable and I can't adjust it right I'm out of adjusting on my clutch Hub thanks man save me about $100 for a braided cable thanks again
That makes me real happy.. glad it helped you. that's pretty much the same reason I did mine like this. original OEM cables were too expensive or unobtainable.
Simple withe no use of anything special. Good job.
James P Bergeron thanks!
I have plenty of solder but just out of curiosity could you use brazing rod?
Is there a certain type of solder that would best be applicable for this?
Good video, and great job showing the steps to accomplish this.
No aguanta mucho tiempo ya lo hice y se vuelve a despegar el cable ya que el estaño es muy suave
That's actually a very clever idea. Is it strong though?
So far so good. it's a fairly light-duty application though.
Is it ok to use ordernary led to use on that ?
Great info, great procedure, not so good about your backhand and knuckles. Thanks for sharing.
Tried this and it just balls up and dosen't fill the cavity. Any advice?
Thanks for this. I used your method but the molten aluminium comes out of the small hole. Am I missing Something?
What is the metal ?
Hi. What type of solder did you use in this? Thanks for the vid!
N gate looks like silver solder the thick plumbing stuff
Very good ,,what you used alumium
How come the melted solder doesn’t pour out the wire hole?
The phenomenon known as surface tension may be the best explanation.
Try sooting up your soldering hole next time - it should keep the sticking to a minimum if not eliminating it. Use a candle or a smoking acetylene torch. It might even eliminate the need for flux on everything but the cable. It's worth a shot, right?
put the Flux on the cable not the mold.want it to stick to the cable not through fixture .you might use silver solder for max strenth
Thanks! The cable was also dipped in the paste flux.
I think I mention this in the video, but its been so long I can't remember.
Im needing to make something similar for a van sliding door pulley cable. What solder do you recommend that has strength and it not come off?
Agree defiantly Silver, dont understand fluxing your mold. looks 3 times harder than it should be...
metric measurements aresoooo much easier ... but great info
sipposbft I agree.. metric would have been easier to explain. But I only had SAE drills available at the time
Don't be such a Euro-pussy. I can convert US to SI in my head.
@@rstevewarmorycom Haha!
GOOD SHOW!, FOR THIS JOB GOOD MOLDING BLOCKS, FOR FARTHUR DOWN THE ROAD = PRIOR, P, P, P, P, PERFORMANCE, REGARDS
Too much flux and heat means the solder travels far too much along the cable which makes it brittle!
is goot Thank you
Awesome Jose! you're welcome
Just watched the video now what type of soldier did u use ? I plumber or can I use the wire solider?
tre watkins good question...I’m not sure if 60/40 electronics solder has the same density or hardness as plumbing solder.
I’d be concerned with the cable pulling out with a softer solder.
You can give it a shot, but I can’t say for sure what the results will be like.
Please share your experience here, I know everyone including myself would love to know.
Kool when I go out today I'll check home depot to see if what I got at home is the same as hardness goes
Is the jig made out of aluminum?
Yes. I selected aluminum because it transfers the heat more efficiently than a lump of steel.. however you can make it out of whatever you have handy. (truth be told, it was all I had handy..)
SigmazGFX Awesome! You Sir are a genius! Thank you very much for the info. Great video!
Aweman. You're welcome! I'm really glad that after all this time this video is still useful and can help someone. That's why I made it, and actually this is my most watched video. Glad I could help you.
Aren't these cables available at your local bike shop for like $2 to $5? Mountain Bike brake cable.
Yep! you can find precut replacement cables at many places even Walmart.
This tutorial is to show how to make ends for those readily available cables after you cut them to your custom length.
The z type end is what I meant.
You can see solder got up into the cable where it should be flexible, and you cooled it quickly in water, two things that will reduce flexibility of the cable and introduce a possible point of failure
Dave Geraghty thanks for your insight Dave.
When I dropped the fixture into the water the solder was already cooled pretty well, I figured I’d dunk it so I could move along with the demonstration.
As to the solder wicking up into the cable, In most applications that shouldn’t be a problem.
Even with a throttle cable that rolls around the twist grip tube I’d imagine it doesn’t flex enough to be a concern.
I’m pretty sure everyone knows that this method in its entirety is a compromise.
Technical white papers and X-ray analysis were omitted during the production of this video.
But thanks for your professional advice.
wood mold is best
If "at making an unnecessary mess" is what you mean, Then I couldn't agree more.
Bitchin chisel!
Tim Brown Hah! I know right!.... I did what I could to destroy it.
I’m a bastard to my tools...
Thanks for noticing. Lol
this didn’t work for me. solder just sticks to the jig and won’t come out no matter what you knock out with
U put flux on the jig😂. No u gotta put it on the wire
@@dmo848 typo
Tony?
Your totally wrong you can get a bolt on end for that.
Sure, you probably can.
But only after you find a retailer that has exactly what you need
That being said, The video is to show how I made 'solder' ended cables. So it's not wrong at all, actually it's "totally right"!..
Oh, and it's " you're ".
-thanks for watching and commenting.