Great job. A good solder station and solder is key. After you apply the solder keep the wire steady for a few seconds just like you did. Definitely do a pull test as you explained it in your video. 👍
I been just using ec5, I like that these come already popped in the plastic. That is the pain when solder up new ones. The price of the Ic5 ones is nuts though. Worth to save the money I guess.
I don't know how I'm completely failing at this... I have decent soldering experience, I bought a new hakko to make sure it's not a bad iron, I'm tinning everything, but when it comes time to melt the wire into the cup it just will NOT do it fast enough. It always either doesn't melt, or it does and ruins the connector by pushing the pin in or shifting it off angle. I tried 750 800 and 850... No problem melting the solder (60/40 lead based. The tinning is also looking a little foggy indicating cold joint right? Sometimes I also can't get the solder to stick to the connector cup (won't tin well). I'm tinning the tip EVERY TIME even before putting it down. I really have no clue what I'm doing wrong, it looks so easy! I really just have no luck soldering these big 10 gauge wires to ANY kind of connector....
i use a 120w gas soldering iron turned to max, plug the connector into the opposite connector and clamp in vice (i think it helps dissipate heat and the second connector helps keep it all aligned) tin wire and tin the connector well, hold the soldering iron in the connector so that it is liquid and drop the wire in as you pull the iron out. thats how ive always done it
I’m adding one of these connectors to my new Sanwa ESC, but I have Spektrum smart batteries with the middle wire. Do I need to worry about there being a middle wire on my battery but not my ESC?
what temperature do you solder a ic5 connector at? i tried soldering some wires on one today but by the time it was hot enough to melt the solder the connector melted the plastic housing and the connector moved. yes i tinned everything. i dont remember exactly how hot i had it set but i think it was around 750
Probably a bit late but I found it's easier to connect the connector to another connector before soldering to reduce the chance of movement and even if it does move you know you will still be able to connect it
I run it all the way up with lead solder. Probably not the best to do but it works for me. Just can’t hold it on something’s to long. I would say start around 700 for lead free solder.
I have an Arrma RC...the Neg wire just came disconnected from it's connector, I appreciate the quick but clear soldering lesson.😁
How did you take the cap off?
@@dirtrider88 ...what "cap" are you referring to?
@@creastruction i guess he asks for the cap that hides the soldering between cable and plugs.
Great job. A good solder station and solder is key. After you apply the solder keep the wire steady for a few seconds just like you did. Definitely do a pull test as you explained it in your video. 👍
Thank you very much, i appreciate your quick advice.
Nice job, looks good
I been just using ec5, I like that these come already popped in the plastic. That is the pain when solder up new ones. The price of the Ic5 ones is nuts though. Worth to save the money I guess.
Excellent job! Thanks
Thx, looks easier than the ec5...
Thanks, awesome instructions...
Thanks for the vid!
Do you think a 8awg from a max5 wires would fit through the cap holes connectors?
Maybe a silly question. But would this work with the traxxas velineon esc
How many watts is your gun, my 100watt wont get the connector hot enough at all
I don't know how I'm completely failing at this... I have decent soldering experience, I bought a new hakko to make sure it's not a bad iron, I'm tinning everything, but when it comes time to melt the wire into the cup it just will NOT do it fast enough. It always either doesn't melt, or it does and ruins the connector by pushing the pin in or shifting it off angle. I tried 750 800 and 850... No problem melting the solder (60/40 lead based. The tinning is also looking a little foggy indicating cold joint right? Sometimes I also can't get the solder to stick to the connector cup (won't tin well). I'm tinning the tip EVERY TIME even before putting it down. I really have no clue what I'm doing wrong, it looks so easy!
I really just have no luck soldering these big 10 gauge wires to ANY kind of connector....
i use a 120w gas soldering iron turned to max, plug the connector into the opposite connector and clamp in vice (i think it helps dissipate heat and the second connector helps keep it all aligned) tin wire and tin the connector well, hold the soldering iron in the connector so that it is liquid and drop the wire in as you pull the iron out. thats how ive always done it
What type of flux wire
I’m adding one of these connectors to my new Sanwa ESC, but I have Spektrum smart batteries with the middle wire. Do I need to worry about there being a middle wire on my battery but not my ESC?
Nah. You just won’t see any of the smart info on your tx
👍👍
what temperature do you solder a ic5 connector at? i tried soldering some wires on one today but by the time it was hot enough to melt the solder the connector melted the plastic housing and the connector moved. yes i tinned everything. i dont remember exactly how hot i had it set but i think it was around 750
Probably a bit late but I found it's easier to connect the connector to another connector before soldering to reduce the chance of movement and even if it does move you know you will still be able to connect it
Excelent, how you remove easily the grey cap ?
I find it easiest to heat it up a bit and it pulls off easy. If that’s not an option a big pair of pliers works to.
but is it water resistant ?
Are the IC5 and EC5 connections compatible? I know smart capabilities are not going to work.
Yes they are
... they will be compatible
What temp were you at?
I run it all the way up with lead solder. Probably not the best to do but it works for me. Just can’t hold it on something’s to long. I would say start around 700 for lead free solder.