In the seventies I worked at Ashey Road Garage for John Foss who was a total Jaguar nut (ment with affection). In his personal collection he had every version of the E Type including a racing E Type and one of the last ten. I have rebuilt hundreds of them over the years and must have built up a very good reputation as people would bring their Jaguars from the mainland for us to work on. The only thing that I would add to your excellent video is to emphasise not to turn the cams individually as the valves will clash bending them, have seen quite experienced mechanics do this. Also would recommend turning the engine slightly so all pistons are low installing one cam at a time after fitting the "correct" shim and rechecking the clearances, can save you a lot of time and trouble, not to mention embarrassment.
I wish to thank you for the video. I have 1969 Series II OTS with 10,210 miles on a 1974 rebuild. It was time to check valve clearances. Found Intake #4 to be 0.0015" so it was time to do some work. I watched your video three times and then took the plunge. Got the #4 Intake adjuster pad out and over to a local machine shop to shave 0.0025". All back together now and clearance is perfect. Runs great and I won't be worried about burning valves for the duration.
Very nice, those are beautiful engines. I had a Kawasaki motorcycle in the 70s that had dual overhead cams and inverted buckets with removable thickness shims. My valve adjustment procedure was very similar to what was done here, with an additional step. After setting the valve lash per the manufacturer's specs, I would bolt a degree wheel to the crankshaft and align it to TDC on cylinder #1. I would then use a dial indicator on each intake valve and measure the amount of valve lift, typically about 0.050", at the specified intake timing point in degrees BTDC. I would then equalize the valve opening of each intake valve to the minimum amount in the set by sanding each shim down to the necessary thickness. I would then repeat the process for the exhaust valves. Doing things like this and indexing the spark plugs with indexing shims resulted in a very smoothly running engine. I would also first synchronize the carbs with an air flow meter and then fine-tune the cylinders with a power balance test, where I would short out individual cylinders and adjust the throttle butterflies for equal RPM drop.
I used to do a lot of Jags- made myself a magnetic tool to hold the shims and grind them on the stem grinder of the valve machine if i didn't have the exact one in my batch- Just take a bolt and turn a recess in the head the same diameter as the shim, then magnetize it. Magnet will hole the shim and you put the bolt into the stem grinder and grind the shim to the desired thickness.
Great video & the Jag 6 is just an impressive engine. I enjoy working on mine & when I installed the EDIS ignition system it really gave the engine a special get up & go, no dizzy. The SUs are another set of eye candy!
nice video. just started my engine for the first time yesterday on my recently purchaced 420G valves were rattling although it's probably years since the old girl had ran.
We used to set the engine on TDC with rotor arm facing forward, slacken off the top timing chain, undo the cam caps from the rear and lift the cam up one at a time, set the clearances then push cam back down and torque caps to 9 lbf.
I love the "that's all there is to it!" at the end. On the good old american motors all ya do is remove the valve cover adjust the clearance and put the cover back on.
Actually it's called "British Engineering old boy. It's the reason Jaguars don't swop ends in a corner unlike good old American engined cars with engines weighing in at 2 tons!
Really? so in your mind a cast iron lump with single cam-in-block and hammered in rocker studs (like virtually ALL American built cars in the late 50's early 60's) is more sophisticated than a beautifully cast double overhead cam engine with polished solid aluminum cam covers and dual foolproof SU carburetors? That's what is standard issue in my 1959 Jaguar MK IX, along with 4 wheel disc brakes and sunroof. How many Detroit vehicles of that era can boast those features. Just because an engine is easier to work on does NOT make it more sophisticated. I could change out a piston in a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine in 30 minutes, but no one would call it sophisticated. Ever adjust valve clearances on a vintage V12 Ferrari? it is about a 2 day job, but the end result is worth every second spent!
HI I HAVE TO REPLACE THE INLET CAM ONLY iT HAS A 4.2 CAM WITH CLEARANCES OF 10 i WANT TO PUT A 3.8 CAM BACK THERE. CAN i JUST TAKE THE INLET CHAIN AND SPROCKET OFF ON THAT SIDE OR DO I NEED TO TAKE OF BOTH SIDES tHANKS
my 1965 3.8 'S' idles fine but makes a knocking noise when accelerated. Oil was drained, found golden particles in oil. Have been told it is the crankshaft bearings and have been told it is the flexplate. I do not see a need to rebuild entire engine. Can the crankshaft bearings be replaced with engine in situ if indeed they are worn out? Thanks.
Flex plate could not possibly be the cause of metal particles in the oil since it is outside the crankcase If you have rod knock, your crank journals will almost certainly need to be turned to next under size. Removing the engine isn't really all that daunting. The tyranny should likely be removed separately. If you are confident the upper end is good (compression test?) then you could likely remove the crank without disturbing the head. Trying to cut corners with this rarely yields satisfactory results! If you are getting rod knock you MUST NOT drive it further or risk irreparable damage. With crank out be sure to properly clear all oil passages in block AND crankshaft. Your knock is very likely the result of partially blocked passages If you can do the grunt work yourself it would likely be less than $1000 (parts and machining)
@@texcarguy Thank you for replying. I am not running the engine, car is stored. Compression test was done and it was satisfactory. But i am not able to remove engine and tranny by myself, much less work with the crankshaft. Not experienced with engine internals. I can do everything external, but crankshaft bearings is beyond my knowledge.
@@zurdoremi too bad. Maybe you can find a mechanically inclined friend to help. You just need an engine hoist and basic tools. Of course the crankshaft work needs a machine stop but cost should be minimal if no serious damage to crank. It's pretty basic wrencg turning Good luck with it
Shims are Not readily available. Certainly Were Not in 1980. Few Jaguar shops had even half of the collection of shims required. Then one is into Cutting Valve stem heights to get within range of AVAILABLE shims. Lots of wor. OEM Valves were a bit soft consequently the need for adjustment was Fairly frequent. Often "better' shops would upgrade the Valves (all) with stronger / better materials valves.
As they say... Opinions are like assholes.. everybody's got one. As for me, I'm happy to follow mfg's recommendation and even err on the looser side. Sure, the racers go for tighter clearances in quest of a bit more power, and at the possible adverse effect on engine longevity. As for me, I'll gladly accept a bit more tappet noise in favor of reduced likelihood of getting a burned valve from too tight clearances. I don't really enjoy having to remove an XK head. That approach has served me well from my first series I E-type back in 1969 right through my current 15 year ownership of a lovely MK IX. umm I guess that would make it 49 years, huh?
Yeah, Jaguar was definitely copying Ferrari in 1949 when this engine was designed. How many Ferraris even existed in the late 40s? The company was founded in 1947..
Hmm.. I've seen just about every iteration of Ferrari engine, including the V12 in my own '72 365GTC/4 and find virtually no resemblance, either physically, or internally to any of those with the XK engine. I'd be curious as to which Ferrari engine you are referring to (In fact, I'm not aware of any Ferrari 6 cylinder model.. 4 cylinders and V8s/V12's possible a V6, but not a straight 6 I can think of)
@@texcarguy Clearly you are not aware of the 6 cylinder Ferrari, simple history check may open your eyes, maybe you should drive a Lada ( simple version of a Fiat)
Good thing they're "beautiful" so mechanics have something pretty to look at constantly. Hand-polished turds. All that crap was "rarely found" on American car engines because American car engines are built to run good rather than look good and you damned sure don't have to adjust valves on any American car engine built since 1954. Unless its a solid-cam high-performance muscle car engine, of course. And those are few. Hydraulic lifters are really high-tech, huh?
Buckets and shims are actually a very modern way to do it, and needs less adjustment than traditional lifters in a lot of vehicles, especially pushrod.
Well at least for the same power the British Engines don't weigh 2 tons and lift the rear end so it overtakes you on any bend. It's called "advanced engineering" by the way!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
In the seventies I worked at Ashey Road Garage for John Foss who was a total Jaguar nut (ment with affection). In his personal collection he had every version of the E Type including a racing E Type and one of the last ten. I have rebuilt hundreds of them over the years and must have built up a very good reputation as people would bring their Jaguars from the mainland for us to work on. The only thing that I would add to your excellent video is to emphasise not to turn the cams individually as the valves will clash bending them, have seen quite experienced mechanics do this. Also would recommend turning the engine slightly so all pistons are low installing one cam at a time after fitting the "correct" shim and rechecking the clearances, can save you a lot of time and trouble, not to mention embarrassment.
I wish to thank you for the video. I have 1969 Series II OTS with 10,210 miles on a 1974 rebuild. It was time to check valve clearances. Found Intake #4 to be 0.0015" so it was time to do some work. I watched your video three times and then took the plunge. Got the #4 Intake adjuster pad out and over to a local machine shop to shave 0.0025". All back together now and clearance is perfect. Runs great and I won't be worried about burning valves for the duration.
How many labor hours would a mechanic take to do this looking at a 78 series 2 loud tapping valve.
Very nice, those are beautiful engines.
I had a Kawasaki motorcycle in the 70s that had dual overhead cams and inverted buckets with removable thickness shims. My valve adjustment procedure was very similar to what was done here, with an additional step. After setting the valve lash per the manufacturer's specs, I would bolt a degree wheel to the crankshaft and align it to TDC on cylinder #1. I would then use a dial indicator on each intake valve and measure the amount of valve lift, typically about 0.050", at the specified intake timing point in degrees BTDC. I would then equalize the valve opening of each intake valve to the minimum amount in the set by sanding each shim down to the necessary thickness. I would then repeat the process for the exhaust valves. Doing things like this and indexing the spark plugs with indexing shims resulted in a very smoothly running engine. I would also first synchronize the carbs with an air flow meter and then fine-tune the cylinders with a power balance test, where I would short out individual cylinders and adjust the throttle butterflies for equal RPM drop.
I used to do a lot of Jags- made myself a magnetic tool to hold the shims and grind them on the stem grinder of the valve machine if i didn't have the exact one in my batch- Just take a bolt and turn a recess in the head the same diameter as the shim, then magnetize it. Magnet will hole the shim and you put the bolt into the stem grinder and grind the shim to the desired thickness.
I've been hesitant to do mine... but it doesn't look so bad after all! I'll try it. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your expertise!
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Steve Young
Great video & the Jag 6 is just an impressive engine. I enjoy working on mine & when I installed the EDIS ignition system it really gave the engine a special get up & go, no dizzy. The SUs are another set of eye candy!
nice video. just started my engine for the first time yesterday on my recently purchaced 420G valves were rattling although it's probably years since the old girl had ran.
We used to set the engine on TDC with rotor arm facing forward, slacken off the top timing chain, undo the cam caps from the rear and lift the cam up one at a time, set the clearances then push cam back down and torque caps to 9 lbf.
as a MK2 driver; i thank you for your super contribution
Thank you for this gem of knowledge, I shall definitely use it as a
Oint of reference. Thanks again👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Loved the music and the procedure.
what a great vid, clear, straight forward and practical, thanks for showing me how.
Excellent coverage, thanks for putting this up!
Nice of you to do this video. Those shims are $12 each now. So that box of shims is worth thousands, lol.
I love the "that's all there is to it!" at the end. On the good old american motors all ya do is remove the valve cover adjust the clearance and put the cover back on.
Yes. It's called a lack of sophistication
Actually it's called "British Engineering old boy. It's the reason Jaguars don't swop ends in a corner unlike good old American engined cars with engines weighing in at 2 tons!
Really? so in your mind a cast iron lump with single cam-in-block and hammered in rocker studs (like virtually ALL American built cars in the late 50's early 60's) is more sophisticated than a beautifully cast double overhead cam engine with polished solid aluminum cam covers and dual foolproof SU carburetors? That's what is standard issue in my 1959 Jaguar MK IX, along with 4 wheel disc brakes and sunroof. How many Detroit vehicles of that era can boast those features.
Just because an engine is easier to work on does NOT make it more sophisticated. I could change out a piston in a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engine in 30 minutes, but no one would call it sophisticated. Ever adjust valve clearances on a vintage V12 Ferrari? it is about a 2 day job, but the end result is worth every second spent!
a Jaguar is not a Chevrolet or Ford. A Jaguar is a supercar, a Chevrolet is not. Neither is a Ford.
Can I just do one exhaust side on it’s own without the inlet side
HI I HAVE TO REPLACE THE INLET CAM ONLY iT HAS A 4.2 CAM WITH CLEARANCES OF 10 i WANT TO PUT A 3.8 CAM BACK THERE. CAN i JUST TAKE THE INLET CHAIN AND SPROCKET OFF ON THAT SIDE OR DO I NEED TO TAKE OF BOTH SIDES tHANKS
Really nice of you to have done this video. I’m presuming this engine is the same as in a Mk2 Jag? Looks to be the same I think.
This engine IS from a MK II. But all the XK engines are adjusted in similar fashion
my 1965 3.8 'S' idles fine but makes a knocking noise when accelerated. Oil was drained, found golden particles in oil. Have been told it is the crankshaft bearings and have been told it is the flexplate. I do not see a need to rebuild entire engine. Can the crankshaft bearings be replaced with engine in situ if indeed they are worn out? Thanks.
Flex plate could not possibly be the cause of metal particles in the oil since it is outside the crankcase
If you have rod knock, your crank journals will almost certainly need to be turned to next under size. Removing the engine isn't really all that daunting. The tyranny should likely be removed separately.
If you are confident the upper end is good (compression test?) then you could likely remove the crank without disturbing the head. Trying to cut corners with this rarely yields satisfactory results!
If you are getting rod knock you MUST NOT drive it further or risk irreparable damage. With crank out be sure to properly clear all oil passages in block AND crankshaft. Your knock is very likely the result of partially blocked passages
If you can do the grunt work yourself it would likely be less than $1000 (parts and machining)
@@texcarguy Thank you for replying. I am not running the engine, car is stored. Compression test was done and it was satisfactory. But i am not able to remove engine and tranny by myself, much less work with the crankshaft. Not experienced with engine internals. I can do everything external, but crankshaft bearings is beyond my knowledge.
@@zurdoremi too bad. Maybe you can find a mechanically inclined friend to help. You just need an engine hoist and basic tools. Of course the crankshaft work needs a machine stop but cost should be minimal if no serious damage to crank. It's pretty basic wrencg turning
Good luck with it
Shims are Not readily available.
Certainly Were Not in 1980.
Few Jaguar shops had even half of the collection of shims required.
Then one is into Cutting Valve stem heights to get within range of AVAILABLE shims. Lots of wor. OEM Valves were a bit soft consequently the need for adjustment was Fairly frequent. Often "better' shops would upgrade the Valves (all) with stronger / better materials valves.
I'm a little surprised you don't re-check clearances after re-assembly!
No wonder the Chevy LS series engines are my preferred engines.
??????
Excellent ! '66FHC
Good video. Well done , but lose that horrible music!!!!!!
Are there subtitles? I can't do this ASMR stuff
cool.
Guys take the bonnet off its 4 bolts
Nah, 0.005" exhaust, 0.003" inlet , i was using these setting for 30 years.
As they say... Opinions are like assholes.. everybody's got one. As for me, I'm happy to follow mfg's recommendation and even err on the looser side. Sure, the racers go for tighter clearances in quest of a bit more power, and at the possible adverse effect on engine longevity.
As for me, I'll gladly accept a bit more tappet noise in favor of reduced likelihood of getting a burned valve from too tight clearances. I don't really enjoy having to remove an XK head. That approach has served me well from my first series I E-type back in 1969 right through my current 15 year ownership of a lovely MK IX. umm I guess that would make it 49 years, huh?
Deveria ter legendas ou traduzir!
great video but turn the damn music off it interferes with the commentary
looks like a pain in the ass
Great engine the 6,looks good as well,but copied from ferrari back in the day
Yeah, Jaguar was definitely copying Ferrari in 1949 when this engine was designed. How many Ferraris even existed in the late 40s? The company was founded in 1947..
Hmm.. I've seen just about every iteration of Ferrari engine, including the V12 in my own '72 365GTC/4 and find virtually no resemblance, either physically, or internally to any of those with the XK engine. I'd be curious as to which Ferrari engine you are referring to (In fact, I'm not aware of any Ferrari 6 cylinder model.. 4 cylinders and V8s/V12's possible a V6, but not a straight 6 I can think of)
@@texcarguy Clearly you are not aware of the 6 cylinder Ferrari, simple history check may open your eyes, maybe you should drive a Lada ( simple version of a Fiat)
@@jimclarke1108, Ferrari's inline 6 is from 1955. The Jaguar engine was released in 1949. Pillock.
@@Acct1941 Ferrari inline 6 was used in racing from 1955
A BIG PIECE OF SHIT FUCK UP DESIGN
NO wonder why everybody let their Jaguars go to pot...this is a royal pain in the ass.
+mac daddy Had they put another type of valve control the engine wouldn't have looked so beautiful as it does. I'm okay with doing this crappy job. :)
this seems pretty easy. I am about to find out really soon
This is easy as fuck, what's the matter with you?
Good thing they're "beautiful" so mechanics have something pretty to look at constantly. Hand-polished turds. All that crap was "rarely found" on American car engines because American car engines are built to run good rather than look good and you damned sure don't have to adjust valves on any American car engine built since 1954. Unless its a solid-cam high-performance muscle car engine, of course. And those are few. Hydraulic lifters are really high-tech, huh?
"You don't have to adjust the clearance on American engines"
Wow.
Buckets and shims are actually a very modern way to do it, and needs less adjustment than traditional lifters in a lot of vehicles, especially pushrod.
Well at least for the same power the British Engines don't weigh 2 tons and lift the rear end so it overtakes you on any bend. It's called "advanced engineering" by the way!
DEEREMEYER1 You really are that stupid aren’t you.. clueless twat!
Can I just do the exhaust side leaving the inlet alone