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Hi Alex just checking that you have used a Lectron Carbs before, they are very different to a normal jet/needle circuit carb. They use a Metering Rod and it catches out a lot of people. I use them on my Land Speed Suzuki/Aprilia 250cc engines 2x38mm and they work great as long as you learn how to tune them and use a big airbox. In this case I wonder if having the central inserts you made will interfere with the Metering Rod's ability to draw fuel from the bowl. Maybe an offset reducer with the new diameter at the bottom of the intake or a narrow slot in the existing ones that allows the metering rod to work the way it was designed?
@@malcrandall1309 That might have been okay on the inlet - but I'd be real worried about it on the outlet. O-rings + a flush retaining screw through the side of the throat would have been a solid choice though.
@@bradley3549 we make ours press fit then blend on the lathe for the inlet and use some green lock tight. Screws work but if you ever played with rc nitro cars you know those carbs would get loose pretty fast with the same method of retention.
Outrageous 😂 I can’t believe the size of that Lectron Carb!! Even 33mm seems like a massive size. I had twin side draught 44mm Mikuni carbs on a mildly hot rodded 2 liter engine. Each piston/cylinder displaced 550cc. It was 4 stroke with 2 valve head though and it was not super charged. But still each chamber had 10 times the displacement of this little monster. I’ve currently got 4 - 33mm slide carbs on a 4 cylinder 750cc motorcycle engine. Each cylinder displaces 187.5cc. This little monster is thirsty. Loved the video!! Really great to be part of the testing journey.
Bar FAR your best episode ever, and I have been watching for years and not posting up until now. I'm totally caught up in your determination to expand the50cc 2-stroke envelope and to boldly go forth into uncharted "Stuffing". As a 60 plus "old Fart" I'm still learning and inspired by your enthusiasm. Keep pushing that envelope brother!
Passing on the love, you’re being a good Dad-person that is more important than us! Love your channel, miss Norway… used to go there OFTEN…. I personally emailed ROTREX to thank them, it was so awesome to see you do the build and I’m so excited to see how this product works with your set up
Tip for your desiccant; If you haven't recharged it, aka baked it in the oven to drive the moisture out, it won't do much. That could help with your filament. Great video as always!! Can't wait to see this beast run....I laughed out loud when you held the Lectron up to the engine. Great stuff. Thanks to the fellow Canadian who sent that to you, along with the Timmies coffee!
Dream build engine keeps getting dreamier! Been following you for a long time thanks for being such an awesome guy and sharing this fantastic journey with the world. Be well, stay fast, god speed. I can't wait to see this on a bike at Bonneville...
Love the air filter.... Probably rated at 200+hp....on 50cc! You, fella, bring Joy to many.... Top, Top stuff... I'm hooked All the best to you and yours from North Nottinghamshire UK Simon👌
In regards to keeping filament dry. The most economical option I've found is a steel 5 gallon bucket with a Gamma2 lid. I also recommend using a SensorPush HT1 humidity sensor. Color-indicating desiccant is a great way to visually remind yourself to change/dry your desiccant. Additionally, aluminum, when in contact with carbon fiber, will become galvanically corroded and will weaken. A barrier material of even .002" thick will suffice in preventing corrosion, especially if it is a plastic-fiber composite part.
You're going to go down in the 2-stroke history books man, mindblowing stuff here. Watching your journey from making fast Peugeots to this monster has been really special. Cheers from New Orleans
You of all people put in a sorry for something being loud...I think it's safe to say we're all used to loudness from this channel. 😂 Can't begin to imagine how crazy this thing will sound, I'll be here watching every update!
I love watching your videos and seeing your persistence in trying to make everything work. Most people would give up after so many fails. This is what keeps me watching. I know what it's like to keep failing at things and keep working on it till i get it right.
the film quality make this look like a movie. I love this. the wide angle and clarity, the deep contrast really capture the shop. what a madman, keep it up 🤘
Alex, I hope you see this before getting too deep into pumps. The speedway carb is fine. What your calling a dash pot can be used as your floatless fuel bowl. Gravity feed in, Overflow out. Pump overflow back to tank. Constant fuel level (at overflow) so long as overflow capacity exceeds input capacity. KISS system as some experts recommend. No requirement for pressure management! Cheers Daryl.
@@2STROKESTUFFING If the fuel tank was pressurised by blower to boost pressure, and the fuel bowl and overflow return was enclosed and also at blower pressure....then the operating pressure at the main jet would always be at Gravity head + boost pressure. Always correct, no matter what Boost, Simple! (maybe!)
this channel is so interesting. i never understood 2 strokes or why people get obsessed about them but now i totally get it. there is so much going on in this tiny engine and its really cool to see the development process
I'm an electrical engineer so I'm thrilled by the idea of the lectron Carbs. They are cool as hell. However, my buddy that used to race AMA pro-nationals had trouble with one (fun bike not race bike). Leaning out in the mid range and stuff (2 stroke). I'm excited to see how it works out for the monster 50 though!!!
I know it's not done yet but a belt tensioner will be a must, try to get a 230 degree wrap on supercharger pulley to reduce any chance of belt slip, looking forward the next instalment.
If your doing a blow through set up You need to pressure rise the float bow from the charger cap all breather/vent holes to the bowl and leave 1 vent tube to pressures to bowl. The carby also needs to breath at atmospheric pressure 1 or 2 holes at the intake of the carb need to be vented outs side of the charger intake. Best way to do this is plenum box.
For the filament I got a dryer from Eibos it doesn’t have a timer so you can leave it on and keep the filament warm and below 10% humidity. I’ve done a 5month test on petg and experienced no problems with keeping the filament at a high temp.
Thats frikn huge. We used to drill out our 15mm to 17 or 19mm with 70cc. We didnt had a blower on it. But still went up to 140km/h. Those where the days.
I love how you got a package of Tim Hortons coffee with those parts. Guaranteed the guy who sent you them was from Canada. Doesn’t get more Canadian than a good old cup of Tim’s
Those Lektron carbs can be tuned to suit almost any conditions, as you have a supercharger I'd say it will work especially if you put an oval bushing in the venturi to make it smaller, alternatively swap the carb for a smaller one by putting an appeal out on your channel
Have you considered; running the PIP engine naturally aspirated to dial in the ignition timing and carb tuning (probably on race gas first w/traditional carburetor), that way you can isolate the timing / tuning trends of nitro vs race gas, and a traditional carb vs. the speedway or larger traditional carb??? It would seem this would help you understand the performance potential of nitro in your PIP exclusively, and the effect to the pipe resonance rpm on nitro...If these inputs were known before adding boost (in theory), the engine power per / pressure ratio formula (power doubling with double the atmospheric pressure ratio), you could better diagnose what is occurring to the tune up with more boost.....I think it could be worth doing something like this to lessen the unknowns of the new system / shorten the learning curve. Also; since your going to a “constant flow” type supercharger, it MAY be beneficial to add case reeds back to the intake circuit post carburetor.....I think it would clean up the carbonation near idle, and pick up power prior to the supercharger building any significant boost.......just my 0.02c’s Keep up the good work 👍🏁😎
I think he'll need reed valves for starting if nothing else. Also fuel injection is going to be a lot less hassle than a carb, just put it in the intake pipe firing at the reeds.
Agreed on the reeds for starting alone.....EFI has some challenges too on a two stroke, if not a constant flow type injector, and finding injectors with good reliability / durability on methanol / nitromethane of that type......but the carb isn’t going to be easy either, in terms of sealing the throttle cable, throttle sticking with flat side under boost pressure, and float collapsing.......either way is a hard road ahead without any off the shelf options (Alex has his work cut out for him), I just personally would try to minimize the unknowns, with testing prior to adding boost, to lessen the frustration during diagnosis, of the unforeseen issues ahead.
I came across your channel years ago when I acquired a cr10 and was looking for related videos, I'm so glad I did, love what you do and haven't missed a video since
My Nord VPN has been great so far. Was such a good deal on it. Thanks again! Loving the progress and evolution of this theme 🤘 If you know anyone who has one of those crazy little V8 2 strokes (Evenrude?) I would love to see you talking and showing round one of those to us. 2T hits different.
Since I guess a variable elevation fuel tank is too much perhaps a PWM controller with a carefully chosen fuel pressure sensor plus pump, and probably an accumulator of sorts to prevent pressure drops with volume increases might be a starting point to build a fuel system that'll do what you want when you want on different projects. A pressure boost curve could be as straight as you choose. I haven't built one in years but I have noticed the components available now are much better equipped.
Since you're using an electric fuel pump, you can just ditch the shutoff valve and tie the fuel pump in to the ignition circuit. No spark, no fuel. You also have all the components now to just use a fuel injector. It wouldn't be too hard to just have an throttle dependent ramp for duty cycle (alpha-N). Or even a mechanical barrel valve like on old-school blowers. The regulator would take care of the boost reference. Love to see how your crazy mind works :)
I wish your videos would show up in my notifications. I have a pint of Johnny Walker Black to sit and catch up... Brother I have many friends waiting for you to make this project a world record machine! I live four hours from Bonneville
I would suggest using a stabilized power supply for the pump, instead of battery directly. It will be one thing less to cause problems. As you saw, the pump flow will be constantly dropping as the battery discharges... How much current does the pump draws? Even un-stabilized power supply (simple transformer, bridge rectifier and a capacitor) will be better than the battery...
From experience...You MUST purge the entire fuel system every time you run it (with regular gas) or the rubber parts will turn into gummy bears and swell. This will cause all kinds of wierd running problems which will cause wasted hours of time trying to diagnose!!!.. It doesn't matter if you leave it for 1 day or 20 once the Methanol touchs the rubber it will start degrading it!!..It will attack the fuel pressure regulator first!..If you get it running and tuned, check the fuel pressure FIRST if you develop running problems. Even "Race Gas" will cause this issue..Most Carbs run at 3 1/2 pounds of pressure..They make electric fuel pumps for carburetor engines..They run at 5-7 pounds maximum. This will eliminate the problems you are going to run into with such a "High Pressure" fuel pump. For gods sake I hope you have multiple Fire Extinguisher's!!!..With an electric fuel pump, you have a "House burning" bomb un your basement...This is another reason Dyno's are usually in closed an off designated rooms!.. It's not "if you have a major fire" but "WHEN"!!!.. It is coming along nicely CONGRATULATIONS on your progress!! 👍👍👍🗽🇺🇸
Grab a 150+gph Summit pump kit. Undervolt the pump to 8-9volt. Almost quiet.. That pump sounds lije its cavitating. Tank-large filter-liftpump-line-big pump-pressure reducer-pressure metering-carb.
I wonder how a vacuum chamber would work for filament drying. The problem I run into with drying things in the vacuum chamber is that there isn’t enough latent heat to boil off substantial fluids since the rate of heat transfer through the conducting surfaces is so slow. Might not be a problem at all with filament since the volume of water would be relatively low but a little preheat could guarantee it had enough energy to boil off in the vacuum.
hello from bigfoot territory.... i'm about an hour south of vancouver bc... canadians love tim hortons .... and poutine ( french fries , gravy and cheese curds ) i'm afraid to try it , i might like it too much and have to move to canada ....carb looks nice thanx
So I know what would give boost with no parasitic loss. Do a electric turbo. The battery’s needed are the size of a car battery. It’s 2) half size 12volt battery’s for a 24volt system. Ya would need a spot for the battery but it would wrk perfectly for doing high speed runs. Don’t need a charging system as you can just recharge for ea run or every so many runs. But I’ve personally seen these electric turbo add significant power on a 4cyl sedan so it would absolutely be way more then enough boost for a 50cc engine that’s for sure 🎉🎉
It would be super easy to run that rotrex SC with an electric motor. Just need to find an appropriate sized Brush less RC motor. I imagine it would take around 5kW of power full song to power that thing
I actually love the speedway carb although I'm not sure how it would do at transient boost. The lectron is great but you have that issue I mentioned last week you gotta get the fuel pressure down under 2psi for it to not flood. Same for the pwk. I actually ran 1.25psi base pressure and that worked great but again hell to get the pressure that low. Give my set up a try I'm sure youl find it's self adjusting nature very helpful and your boost isn't high enough to matter on the tank. I'll get some new vids up once the new frame is done so you can see my compound turbo 155cc but it's gonna be some time it's for next years season of grudge racing.
Yes, the speedway carb is nice and simple, it's bowl-less nature could be problematic tho, as you said. Lectron says 3psi is fine. I'm adding in a restricted return line after the regulator to bring 6psi down to 3.
@@2STROKESTUFFING if you do that youl run the bowl dry. The regulator needs to be the restriction without any after. Don't ask it's a long two week story but it was a headache to figure out. I don't think the bowl-less carb would be an issue for wot runs but drivability I feel would be rougher than the pwk. I'm at year 11 on my bike 9 of blow through. The pwk with some parts to convert it into a yoshi mjn style carb has been my favorite by far especially after I moved the powerjets way up on my intake runner about 4 in from the carb towards the plenum. I do this for charge cooling but you make end up liking these features with boost along with the endless aftermarket support. Don't use any pumper carbs... That was a fun lesson they have a check valve and once boost is applied it just dumps fuel out of the accelerator pump. Even then the hsr was great and sealed amazing but you gotta delete the pumper part. Tms were nice but hard to seal up but off of something with ram air it's already set up for boost just not much pressure. In short the pwk after drilling the fuel feeds and the slide hole bigger with a heavy spring and a clamp for the bowl and a few other things like the mjn stuff really are hard to beat. Lectron is great I'm just a mjn guy many ways to skin a cat.
CV carbs are the easiest to tune by far and the hardest to seal.. you can make it work I got frustrated and moved on. I just had an idea for your speedway carb. If you reference the regulator on the vac side of the carb you can add that extra dimension of control pretty easy and get good control over the pressure once it's running. Just use hard line that's as small of a volume you can make it. Should be fast enough for the part throttle stuff to be great.
@@connorssmallengines6663 true, but how would a spark get into a sealed tank. Nitro r/c cars use exhaust to pressurize their fuel tanks with out any problems.
Hi while looking into supercharging I was reminded of the Roots 6-71 blowers that were installed on. Detriot Diesel 2 stroke Diesel engines, which had pressurised lubrication to the crank hence not using crankcase scavenging, which made me wonder why you are pushing pressurised air into the crankcase when you could fill the cylinder directly via cylinder wall ports. In a similar way the Deltic 2 stoke diesel albeit in an unusual configuration used centrifugal compressors to fill the cylinders via cylinder wall ports with no crankcase scavenging , just a thought.
I like the new blower but the fueling setup has too many possible failiure points and I think it should be replaced by something more simple and easily regulated like EFI for example.
EFI would keep all the stuff except for the carb which would be replaced with a throttle body and injectors. Conventional EFI is not a trivial task on high revving two strokes.
Use an HIF44 (44mm) carb used in Mini turbo engines xD Just remembered you could use the original plenum that has a choke built in for the boost signal :)
venturi size is really about air, since you can cram alot of fuel through a small carb but the limiting factor is how much AIR, not fuel it can injest. try it... put a huge main jet in a small carb. it will choke itself down like crazy, as it cant get the air it needs.
On nitromethanol you easily become fuel restricted. Typical scenario: Completely remove all jets, drill out idle circuit, add powerjets, drill float needle seat to max without leaking - still not enough fuel, and the bowl runs dry.
I have a lectron running on a Ktm 300 2 stroke on a snow bike and it runs good at any altitude 1000 meters to 2500 meters any temperature pretty amazing
Its coming together now. Surely time for a Single Point Injection system? Take some more variables away? If you sold the pile of carbs. A basic ECU would be affordable even if you didnt want to make it control Ignition.
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Glad you're back! ^^
I sleeved it down to about equivalent area of 32mm
@@mrlemm2030 So you're saying he needs to use the built-in nitrous port?
We will make a peripheral ported rotary engine builder out of you, if you keep this up!
Hi Alex just checking that you have used a Lectron Carbs before, they are very different to a normal jet/needle circuit carb. They use a Metering Rod and it catches out a lot of people.
I use them on my Land Speed Suzuki/Aprilia 250cc engines 2x38mm and they work great as long as you learn how to tune them and use a big airbox.
In this case I wonder if having the central inserts you made will interfere with the Metering Rod's ability to draw fuel from the bowl.
Maybe an offset reducer with the new diameter at the bottom of the intake or a narrow slot in the existing ones that allows the metering rod to work the way it was designed?
I love the confidence of epoxying those inserts into the carb! It's stuff like that which holds me up in any endeavor - fear of permanence.
no testing, just pure madness xD
😁Fear is the mind killer.
I wished Alex would have retained them with a interfereence fit using "O" rings.
@@malcrandall1309 That might have been okay on the inlet - but I'd be real worried about it on the outlet. O-rings + a flush retaining screw through the side of the throat would have been a solid choice though.
@@bradley3549 we make ours press fit then blend on the lathe for the inlet and use some green lock tight. Screws work but if you ever played with rc nitro cars you know those carbs would get loose pretty fast with the same method of retention.
Outrageous 😂 I can’t believe the size of that Lectron Carb!! Even 33mm seems like a massive size. I had twin side draught 44mm Mikuni carbs on a mildly hot rodded 2 liter engine. Each piston/cylinder displaced 550cc. It was 4 stroke with 2 valve head though and it was not super charged. But still each chamber had 10 times the displacement of this little monster. I’ve currently got 4 - 33mm slide carbs on a 4 cylinder 750cc motorcycle engine. Each cylinder displaces 187.5cc. This little monster is thirsty.
Loved the video!! Really great to be part of the testing journey.
Bar FAR your best episode ever, and I have been watching for years and not posting up until now. I'm totally caught up in your determination to expand the50cc 2-stroke envelope and to boldly go forth into uncharted "Stuffing". As a 60 plus "old Fart" I'm still learning and inspired by your enthusiasm. Keep pushing that envelope brother!
I thought this episode was something special too. I even found myself enjoying the NordVPN promo!
Thanks man!
Passing on the love, you’re being a good Dad-person that is more important than us! Love your channel, miss Norway… used to go there OFTEN….
I personally emailed ROTREX to thank them, it was so awesome to see you do the build and I’m so excited to see how this product works with your set up
Thanks man!
Tip for your desiccant; If you haven't recharged it, aka baked it in the oven to drive the moisture out, it won't do much. That could help with your filament. Great video as always!! Can't wait to see this beast run....I laughed out loud when you held the Lectron up to the engine. Great stuff. Thanks to the fellow Canadian who sent that to you, along with the Timmies coffee!
Dream build engine keeps getting dreamier! Been following you for a long time thanks for being such an awesome guy and sharing this fantastic journey with the world. Be well, stay fast, god speed. I can't wait to see this on a bike at Bonneville...
Love the air filter.... Probably rated at 200+hp....on 50cc!
You, fella, bring Joy to many.... Top, Top stuff... I'm hooked
All the best to you and yours from North Nottinghamshire UK
Simon👌
Thanks Mike Dunbar!! Epic gift, can't wait to see it in use!
In regards to keeping filament dry. The most economical option I've found is a steel 5 gallon bucket with a Gamma2 lid. I also recommend using a SensorPush HT1 humidity sensor. Color-indicating desiccant is a great way to visually remind yourself to change/dry your desiccant. Additionally, aluminum, when in contact with carbon fiber, will become galvanically corroded and will weaken. A barrier material of even .002" thick will suffice in preventing corrosion, especially if it is a plastic-fiber composite part.
You're going to go down in the 2-stroke history books man, mindblowing stuff here. Watching your journey from making fast Peugeots to this monster has been really special. Cheers from New Orleans
It has gone bonkers love it ! Fingers crossed it won’t take to much tweaking to get it right . Cheers from Australia
You of all people put in a sorry for something being loud...I think it's safe to say we're all used to loudness from this channel. 😂
Can't begin to imagine how crazy this thing will sound, I'll be here watching every update!
I love watching your videos and seeing your persistence in trying to make everything work. Most people would give up after so many fails. This is what keeps me watching. I know what it's like to keep failing at things and keep working on it till i get it right.
Man I just love sitting back, drinking coffee and listening to you talk with that wonderful music in the background.
the film quality make this look like a movie.
I love this.
the wide angle and clarity, the deep contrast really capture the shop.
what a madman, keep it up 🤘
Alex, I hope you see this before getting too deep into pumps. The speedway carb is fine. What your calling a dash pot can be used as your floatless fuel bowl. Gravity feed in, Overflow out. Pump overflow back to tank. Constant fuel level (at overflow) so long as overflow capacity exceeds input capacity. KISS system as some experts recommend. No requirement for pressure management! Cheers Daryl.
Good point👍But I would need fuel pressure to sit above boost pressure still, back to pumps.
@@2STROKESTUFFING True, my thinking was still Draw through not Blow through. I need to think deeper.
@@2STROKESTUFFING If the fuel tank was pressurised by blower to boost pressure, and the fuel bowl and overflow return was enclosed and also at blower pressure....then the operating pressure at the main jet would always be at Gravity head + boost pressure. Always correct, no matter what Boost, Simple! (maybe!)
this channel is so interesting. i never understood 2 strokes or why people get obsessed about them but now i totally get it. there is so much going on in this tiny engine and its really cool to see the development process
Yeah i was in the same boat. Once i understood how it functions it blew my mind. Its such an elegant design
I'm an electrical engineer so I'm thrilled by the idea of the lectron Carbs. They are cool as hell. However, my buddy that used to race AMA pro-nationals had trouble with one (fun bike not race bike). Leaning out in the mid range and stuff (2 stroke). I'm excited to see how it works out for the monster 50 though!!!
I would have gone down the fuel injection route a long time ago but hey what do I know. Full respect to your perseverance.
that lil' supercharger is really cute, amazing build
I know it's not done yet but a belt tensioner will be a must, try to get a 230 degree wrap on supercharger pulley to reduce any chance of belt slip, looking forward the next instalment.
👍Adding a tensioner
If your doing a blow through set up You need to pressure rise the float bow from the charger cap all breather/vent holes to the bowl and leave 1 vent tube to pressures to bowl. The carby also needs to breath at atmospheric pressure 1 or 2 holes at the intake of the carb need to be vented outs side of the charger intake. Best way to do this is plenum box.
For the filament I got a dryer from Eibos it doesn’t have a timer so you can leave it on and keep the filament warm and below 10% humidity. I’ve done a 5month test on petg and experienced no problems with keeping the filament at a high temp.
This is looking mega. And kind of sick and twisted to have an inlet bigger than the piston can't wait to see it running. 😉
Its not called 2 stroke stuffing for noting
Thats frikn huge. We used to drill out our 15mm to 17 or 19mm with 70cc. We didnt had a blower on it. But still went up to 140km/h. Those where the days.
Your apparatus construct to build and test motors is a cool thingy to build itself, Sir! Well done and thx for interesting upload.... Thumps up! 😀😀👍
Megasquirt ecu,for control injector,spark,presión fuell,is nice ootion
I love how you got a package of Tim Hortons coffee with those parts. Guaranteed the guy who sent you them was from Canada. Doesn’t get more Canadian than a good old cup of Tim’s
Those Lektron carbs can be tuned to suit almost any conditions, as you have a supercharger I'd say it will work especially if you put an oval bushing in the venturi to make it smaller, alternatively swap the carb for a smaller one by putting an appeal out on your channel
I can’t wait to hear that centrifugal horn toot!
Thank you as always,
-CY Castor
yes that carb does look insane!! love it! fingers crossed mate! cheers.
I can't wait to see this running with the new gear.
Have you considered; running the PIP engine naturally aspirated to dial in the ignition timing and carb tuning (probably on race gas first w/traditional carburetor), that way you can isolate the timing / tuning trends of nitro vs race gas, and a traditional carb vs. the speedway or larger traditional carb??? It would seem this would help you understand the performance potential of nitro in your PIP exclusively, and the effect to the pipe resonance rpm on nitro...If these inputs were known before adding boost (in theory), the engine power per / pressure ratio formula (power doubling with double the atmospheric pressure ratio), you could better diagnose what is occurring to the tune up with more boost.....I think it could be worth doing something like this to lessen the unknowns of the new system / shorten the learning curve.
Also; since your going to a “constant flow” type supercharger, it MAY be beneficial to add case reeds back to the intake circuit post carburetor.....I think it would clean up the carbonation near idle, and pick up power prior to the supercharger building any significant boost.......just my 0.02c’s
Keep up the good work 👍🏁😎
I think he'll need reed valves for starting if nothing else. Also fuel injection is going to be a lot less hassle than a carb, just put it in the intake pipe firing at the reeds.
Agreed on the reeds for starting alone.....EFI has some challenges too on a two stroke, if not a constant flow type injector, and finding injectors with good reliability / durability on methanol / nitromethane of that type......but the carb isn’t going to be easy either, in terms of sealing the throttle cable, throttle sticking with flat side under boost pressure, and float collapsing.......either way is a hard road ahead without any off the shelf options (Alex has his work cut out for him), I just personally would try to minimize the unknowns, with testing prior to adding boost, to lessen the frustration during diagnosis, of the unforeseen issues ahead.
I came across your channel years ago when I acquired a cr10 and was looking for related videos, I'm so glad I did, love what you do and haven't missed a video since
When your carb has a bigger diameter then your piston and you still does'nt think it is overkill 😜 love it!
I ported my carb today.
Does it flow more?
No. Less.
!!!!
But it don’t starve my engine for fuel no more!
Best sponsor ad segment ever!
My Nord VPN has been great so far. Was such a good deal on it. Thanks again! Loving the progress and evolution of this theme 🤘 If you know anyone who has one of those crazy little V8 2 strokes (Evenrude?) I would love to see you talking and showing round one of those to us. 2T hits different.
Love my Friday nights watching the madness of your endless revisions and amendments! Can I come and live in your workshop for a while?😄👌
48mm on a 50cc is mad. Love it
I use prusas PC-CF instead of nylon, not sensitive to moisture, you can just bring out the roll and print. Very nice properties aswell.
❤️Your Work Man, all the best to your misses.
Since I guess a variable elevation fuel tank is too much perhaps a PWM controller with a carefully chosen fuel pressure sensor plus pump, and probably an accumulator of sorts to prevent pressure drops with volume increases might be a starting point to build a fuel system that'll do what you want when you want on different projects. A pressure boost curve could be as straight as you choose. I haven't built one in years but I have noticed the components available now are much better equipped.
Great idea, hopefully a lot less parasitic losses with the centrifugal blower.
We are so excited to see this run! You do great work! Your kids are so lucky to have you as their dad. Your girlfriend is lucky too.
Since you're using an electric fuel pump, you can just ditch the shutoff valve and tie the fuel pump in to the ignition circuit. No spark, no fuel. You also have all the components now to just use a fuel injector. It wouldn't be too hard to just have an throttle dependent ramp for duty cycle (alpha-N). Or even a mechanical barrel valve like on old-school blowers. The regulator would take care of the boost reference. Love to see how your crazy mind works :)
I wish your videos would show up in my notifications. I have a pint of Johnny Walker Black to sit and catch up... Brother I have many friends waiting for you to make this project a world record machine! I live four hours from Bonneville
Super excited for this project, can't wait to see it fire up and hear the engine tone/resonance differences all these changes will make. 😎 🤙
I would suggest using a stabilized power supply for the pump, instead of battery directly. It will be one thing less to cause problems. As you saw, the pump flow will be constantly dropping as the battery discharges...
How much current does the pump draws? Even un-stabilized power supply (simple transformer, bridge rectifier and a capacitor) will be better than the battery...
The pressure regulator should compensate for it unless pressure in drops too close to pressure out.
@@2STROKESTUFFING ok, but then you just making some good runs with 40HP+, and the battery dies 🤔
gotta dry nylon filament even from factory. keeping it dry is the hard part
From experience...You MUST purge the entire fuel system every time you run it (with regular gas) or the rubber parts will turn into gummy bears and swell. This will cause all kinds of wierd running problems which will cause wasted hours of time trying to diagnose!!!.. It doesn't matter if you leave it for 1 day or 20 once the Methanol touchs the rubber it will start degrading it!!..It will attack the fuel pressure regulator first!..If you get it running and tuned, check the fuel pressure FIRST if you develop running problems. Even "Race Gas" will cause this issue..Most Carbs run at 3 1/2 pounds of pressure..They make electric fuel pumps for carburetor engines..They run at 5-7 pounds maximum. This will eliminate the problems you are going to run into with such a "High Pressure" fuel pump. For gods sake I hope you have multiple Fire Extinguisher's!!!..With an electric fuel pump, you have a "House burning" bomb un your basement...This is another reason Dyno's are usually in closed an off designated rooms!.. It's not "if you have a major fire" but "WHEN"!!!.. It is coming along nicely CONGRATULATIONS on your progress!! 👍👍👍🗽🇺🇸
LETS GO NEW 2 STROKE VIDEO
Grab a 150+gph Summit pump kit. Undervolt the pump to 8-9volt. Almost quiet.. That pump sounds lije its cavitating. Tank-large filter-liftpump-line-big pump-pressure reducer-pressure metering-carb.
When your carb is bigger than your piston
Balls to the wall drinks all night LEGEND
I wonder how a vacuum chamber would work for filament drying. The problem I run into with drying things in the vacuum chamber is that there isn’t enough latent heat to boil off substantial fluids since the rate of heat transfer through the conducting surfaces is so slow. Might not be a problem at all with filament since the volume of water would be relatively low but a little preheat could guarantee it had enough energy to boil off in the vacuum.
I agree with many others here. The work you're putting into insane carburetor-solutions would probably be better spent at a direct injection setup.
I get indirect injection but Isn't direct injection an insane solution on a two-stroke at this high RPM though?
Vacuum operated petcock might be a suitable option for your auto shut off fuel supply
hello from bigfoot territory.... i'm about an hour south of vancouver bc... canadians love tim hortons .... and poutine ( french fries , gravy and cheese curds ) i'm afraid to try it , i might like it too much and have to move to canada ....carb looks nice thanx
So I know what would give boost with no parasitic loss. Do a electric turbo. The battery’s needed are the size of a car battery. It’s 2) half size 12volt battery’s for a 24volt system. Ya would need a spot for the battery but it would wrk perfectly for doing high speed runs. Don’t need a charging system as you can just recharge for ea run or every so many runs. But I’ve personally seen these electric turbo add significant power on a 4cyl sedan so it would absolutely be way more then enough boost for a 50cc engine that’s for sure 🎉🎉
It would be super easy to run that rotrex SC with an electric motor. Just need to find an appropriate sized Brush less RC motor. I imagine it would take around 5kW of power full song to power that thing
I actually love the speedway carb although I'm not sure how it would do at transient boost. The lectron is great but you have that issue I mentioned last week you gotta get the fuel pressure down under 2psi for it to not flood. Same for the pwk. I actually ran 1.25psi base pressure and that worked great but again hell to get the pressure that low. Give my set up a try I'm sure youl find it's self adjusting nature very helpful and your boost isn't high enough to matter on the tank. I'll get some new vids up once the new frame is done so you can see my compound turbo 155cc but it's gonna be some time it's for next years season of grudge racing.
Yes, the speedway carb is nice and simple, it's bowl-less nature could be problematic tho, as you said. Lectron says 3psi is fine. I'm adding in a restricted return line after the regulator to bring 6psi down to 3.
@@2STROKESTUFFING if you do that youl run the bowl dry. The regulator needs to be the restriction without any after. Don't ask it's a long two week story but it was a headache to figure out. I don't think the bowl-less carb would be an issue for wot runs but drivability I feel would be rougher than the pwk. I'm at year 11 on my bike 9 of blow through. The pwk with some parts to convert it into a yoshi mjn style carb has been my favorite by far especially after I moved the powerjets way up on my intake runner about 4 in from the carb towards the plenum. I do this for charge cooling but you make end up liking these features with boost along with the endless aftermarket support. Don't use any pumper carbs... That was a fun lesson they have a check valve and once boost is applied it just dumps fuel out of the accelerator pump. Even then the hsr was great and sealed amazing but you gotta delete the pumper part. Tms were nice but hard to seal up but off of something with ram air it's already set up for boost just not much pressure. In short the pwk after drilling the fuel feeds and the slide hole bigger with a heavy spring and a clamp for the bowl and a few other things like the mjn stuff really are hard to beat. Lectron is great I'm just a mjn guy many ways to skin a cat.
CV carbs are the easiest to tune by far and the hardest to seal.. you can make it work I got frustrated and moved on.
I just had an idea for your speedway carb. If you reference the regulator on the vac side of the carb you can add that extra dimension of control pretty easy and get good control over the pressure once it's running. Just use hard line that's as small of a volume you can make it. Should be fast enough for the part throttle stuff to be great.
With all the technology you use on this channel it's mindblowing that you are running a carb and not fuel injection.
speeduino ecu ( CHEAP timing fuel and boost control and all the inputs outputs you need ) plenum and injector and throttle body problems solved
Nice. Looking forward to the results
You need a 12 volt diesel fuel pump . Safe on volatile fuel and run between 3 and 15 lbs
Could you use a sealed fuel tank and use the boost to pressurize it? that way you wouldn't need a pump and regulator.
It would work but it wouldnt react quickly enough with a big air volume in the tank 🤔😁
Or it depends on the hose size to the tank 😅🤔
Very dangerous. Think of a bunch of pressurized air and fuel and a spark gets in
@@connorssmallengines6663 true, but how would a spark get into a sealed tank. Nitro r/c cars use exhaust to pressurize their fuel tanks with out any problems.
@@3_Phase exhaust gas contains little to no oxygen and won't support burning of the fuel.
The implication that Tim Hortons isn''t "Shitty coffee" has me rolling.
😂
I print carb to intake adaptors for my race saws out of CF nylon and it isn't forgiving if you don't dry it out and keep it dry during printing.
Adventurous Canadian Netflix + Tim Horton's coffee is all you need! Cheers from Canada!
Is that HP pump lubricated by the fuel. Since nitromethane works as a solvent it's lubricating properties isn't too good.
looks quite challenging fitting that in a frame later... but that's for later... Cant wait to hear it scream 🙂
Yes, it will be challanging fitting it into Moped Dick. Possibly a single spine frame may be better. I wonder what transmition is going to be used.
Good job Alex. Cant wait to see you at the salt flats.
Sweet you accomplished all this since last video ol,son
Modern day mad scientist 👨🔬
Tim Hortons coffee 🤣🤣🤣
Hi while looking into supercharging I was reminded of the Roots 6-71 blowers that were installed on. Detriot Diesel 2 stroke Diesel engines, which had pressurised lubrication to the crank hence not using crankcase scavenging, which made me wonder why you are pushing pressurised air into the crankcase when you could fill the cylinder directly via cylinder wall ports. In a similar way the Deltic 2 stoke diesel albeit in an unusual configuration used centrifugal compressors to fill the cylinders via cylinder wall ports with no crankcase scavenging , just a thought.
I like the new blower but the fueling setup has too many possible failiure points and I think it should be replaced by something more simple and easily regulated like EFI for example.
EFI would keep all the stuff except for the carb which would be replaced with a throttle body and injectors. Conventional EFI is not a trivial task on high revving two strokes.
Use an HIF44 (44mm) carb used in Mini turbo engines xD
Just remembered you could use the original plenum that has a choke built in for the boost signal :)
Hope you enjoyed the Tim's coffee ☕ a Canadian staple
Love it Can't wait to see it running
Larger carburettor than piston !
It's a T-Shirt text 👍
Skulle det vara omöjligt att få till direktinsprutning?
venturi size is really about air, since you can cram alot of fuel through a small carb but the limiting factor is how much AIR, not fuel it can injest. try it... put a huge main jet in a small carb. it will choke itself down like crazy, as it cant get the air it needs.
On nitromethanol you easily become fuel restricted. Typical scenario: Completely remove all jets, drill out idle circuit, add powerjets, drill float needle seat to max without leaking - still not enough fuel, and the bowl runs dry.
Please do EFI, I know most people don’t like it but the benefits way out way the downsides… thing would be an absolute BEAST!
Things are getting more complicated and more interesting
Might I suggest using fuel weight / mass, (put your receiving tank on a scale) divided by time, as a more accurate, standard of measurement.
Can you make your own carburetor? Specific for this application. What about half a four barrel Holley?
I have a lectron running on a Ktm 300 2 stroke on a snow bike and it runs good at any altitude 1000 meters to 2500 meters any temperature pretty amazing
Overkill at it's finest! and it is frikin awesome!!! I love it. Take care brother......
Big carb, bigger dreams...
good to se you got a Lectron carb :)
this dude is a mad scientist!
Omg on the float bowl or lack thereof
There is a diferent way of making boost with compressed air that way you dont need a turbo our suppercharger. For testing perpouses may be perfect.
Another excellent job!!!! Thx buddy!!!
AEM makes a 320 L/h fuel pump that you could use that is methanol compatible.
Its coming together now. Surely time for a Single Point Injection system? Take some more variables away?
If you sold the pile of carbs.
A basic ECU would be affordable even if you didnt want to make it control Ignition.
exciting to see it come together
Get a small but deep intercooler made for it