It looks like the art at 12:24 was AI generated, Bernadette. You might wanna make a mention of that in your description, since you've been so vocally against that kinda thing in previous videos. I'm sure it just slipped past you!
Subscribed, thank you for the annual subscription deal. I don't usually subscribe as most sponsors don't apply to me, but this one did. Love your videos, clever, educational and entertaining. The secret to good videos!
If she's aslan, at least she has her reepicheeps in the form of the piggies! Her sibling made them royal but now it's time to arm them to truly defend her. And yes I know reepicheep was the end of the world not the beginning but the mice were there
The etymology of this is something I've been meaning to look up but am almost afraid to. My str8 brother would probably be super excited about what they're "staying" but this gaybro is not so intrepid 🤔
Corsets keep coming back because they look DAMN good. They can be whimsical or sexy or fancy or simple. They're gorgeous, adjustable, and just heckin neat.
As someone with big boobs, I find corsets comfier than modern bras. I think it's because I don't have the weight of them "hanging" from my shoulders, but kinda hugged from below.
@@Nikki-tx6kh You need to get properly fitted. A modern bra in your actual size should not hang from your shoulders - the weight is supposed to be supported by the bra band and cup construction, very much like by a corset. Straps are just there to keep it in place.
@@YaaLFH There comes a point where the weight is so much that the band would have to be too tight to be comfortable in order to properly support. When I got top surgery, mine weighed 7 lbs.
@@axolirvin971 There's much more that can be supported without the band having to be too tight to be comfortable than you think. I've been wearing between 30J to 34K most of my adult life and never had to suffer bands too tight for comfort.
I really love the idea that fashion has slowly become more and more about figuring out personal aesthetic. Like, trends obviously still exist, but nothing is really “out” anymore. You see a body in 1950’s and it’s just “huh, she’s a vintage gal” and then the next person is in top hats and Victorian corsets and “she’s steampunk”. There seems to be less “oh, how out of date” or what have you. It’s nice. Thank you for sharing ❤ Bernadette, it’s been as educational and lovely as I have come to appreciate
Yeah, I think it's pretty cool. I heard someone say it sucks because now you have to become a brand of your own, but I prefer that to the threat of social clownery for being of a group or another.
I've been seeing a few creators with mullets and for the first time in 30+ years they didnt seem strange to me. It's so strange how something goes from "ewww" to "yeah that's fine"@@vigilantcosmicpenguin8721
This is so well-said! And obvious to all of us who love Bernadette and have watched all of her content. She has obviously spent so much time devouring the entire repository of plates in the archive and extant garments, and knows what to look for in sewn stitches and the way the fabric was made 🙌 and she's funny as fuck 😂 best academic ever
Ok, now that corsets and stays are making a comeback, can we also bring back fabulous hats? We can leave the dead birds on them in the past, but I just want some tiny hats that are also ridiculously elaborate.
Lowkey I feel like hats are kind of making a comeback with the crocheted works coming onto the scene the past few years,, so I could honestly see that transition into more structured hats similar to 17th-20th century garb!
Hats became outdated when cars became widespread and the roof got lowered in the 50ies…they were no longer necessary against the elements and difficult to fit in a car…
i think the difference in silhouette has something to do with the fashionable silhouette of the time. in the early 2000s, low waisted jeans were in vogue. the longer corsets of the Victorian period did go along with the subcultures yes, but they also went along with the longer tops of that time. Now, with the staple of higher waist jeans/skirts and crop top combos, it makes sense that the corsets have adjusted their silhouettes to follow the modern trends. Longer historical corsets were more hourglass shaped, while stays were more conical and shorter, and that difference is being reflected in the modern versions.
I thought of low-rise jeans immediately too. I was a teenager in the early 2000s and I thought anything that drew attention to my natural waist was SO ugly 😂
Back lacing as a mean of adjusting those long types of figures, has also become somewhat tacky and out of style in favor of zippers and strechy fabrics that cannot really adjust structurally to those shapes with just S M L sizing. Stays and bodice based tops are more shape-flexible and cheaper to produce, since they need mainly to fit around the bust without considering waist girth too much. Honestly, many actual corset type tops look like they are just trying to save on fabric and seams
I went through a Victorian Gothic phase in high school. I read the classics, Dracula, Frankenstein, Jane Eyre, A Christmas Carol, I even read Jane Austin books, and none of them really talk about corsets. If anyone read books that were written in the time, you’ll notice, underwear doesn’t really get mentioned much. Maybe a brief mention of a shift in a waking up scene but that’s about it. However, book that were written in modern days but takes place in the past, never shut up about corsets. I think it’s because they were never sexualized or even made to oppressed women until now.
I’d actually be drawn to argue the opposite - they were not considered a ‘proper’ thing to talk or write about *because* of their sexualisation, rather than due to a lack of it. The term ‘unmentionables’ being used to describe undergarments or even men’s trousers in the 19th century tells us a great deal about the attitudes of the time toward anything that could even slightly hint toward sexuality. In avoiding mentioning their protagonist’s undergarments, the authors avoided being conflated with the disreputable realm of erotica, and instead retained the reader’s focus on the plot.
@@AshwynChappellI'm sure there's possibly some degree to which this is true, especially in the later 19th century when Victorian cultural norms were really set in, but also something to consider... outside of romance novels/erotica, how much is underwear mentioned in novels even today? That's not because of some fear of sexuality, it's just because it's simply not relevant, just like lots of basic mundane elements of everyday life that aren't in any way exceptional to the characters or the readers. I'd lean towards that being the reason underwear doesn't come up much in these old classic novels. Everybody wears underwear, the people reading these novels presumably wore the same kind of underwear and so didn't need it spelled out to them any more so than you would.
@@marinary1326I would say that this is very close to the truth here. To us, corsets have taken on a romanticized sexualized meaning (though they are so amazingly beautiful that I'm glad they are stepping outside that light into a more broad use) but back when everyone word them they really were nothing but typical undergarments. Though there is also probably some truth in the fact that it was highly improper to talk about a ladies undergarments in media until relatively recent in a historical sense.
no-one can get me to watch the whole sponsor segment like Bernadette! from film noir to the physical stunts to now the nature documentary of the guinea pigs... 😂 love it!
I definitely did not understand the severity of those fetishwear associations when I first started wearing a corset for pain management. People got super weird about it lol Very glad to see that corsetry is becoming more socially accepted now! By the way thank you to Bernadette for getting me into corsetry in the first place! This has been wonderful for my health!
The corset trend is also the number one fix for people who buy too-small dresses online and need a seamstress to make it fit!! 😂 they end up with a lace up back until the zipper can close!
Had my wedding dress refitted with lacing so that I wouldn't have to worry about the fit changing with fluctuations from tastings, meals, stress, timing in my cycle, or whatever else. It's super useful, and I hope it can be in common use again
Yeah, I considered doing that with a second Hand Dress thet fit perfectly at my hips and waist, but my ribcage did not allow for IT to BE closed by Like 10 centimeters . . . .but I did Not fill the Cups so I Chose to leave IT BE for someone more dainty with bigger breasts . . . . Standardised Sizes are really wild
@@lucie4185Not Just that, they are Cut with a very specific Body Typ in mind and that Just might Not fit you at all, Intried Andreas in that fit perfectly around my waist and hip, the Cups where to Bug, but the Dress would Not Close, cause my rib Cage was to wide.
I have become fed up with bras over the past decades. So now, after having watched you, and other historians building various styles of historical support garments, I finally started building my own. I'm no longer worrying about adhering to an accurate method or particular aesthetic, I'm just building what's (hopefully) practical for my body. They're more like stays, so I can wear jeans & tshirts. Second-hand chinos, dollar store needle/thread, solidified beeswax drippings to wax the thread. I ordered twill tape and synthetic boning. I have dollar store grosgrain ribbon to reinforce where I'm going to sew in eyelets for lacing. I'm hand sewing the whole thing coz I can't afford a sewing machine. I'm probably about 1/3 done. I'd've been finished by now if not for ADHD, lol
My fascination with historical fashion began because of my hatred of bras. I made a historical-ish support garment and will never go back. It feels like a hug and so much more comfy than any bra, even a sports bra. I hope yours turns out well and you love it! Imagine never needing to go bra shopping or spend outrageous amounts on a bra again!
Second hand sewing machines. Often very very much cheaper. If you know someone who sews well and can check it for you this might be a way to get hold of one. You need something quite mechanical, not full of plastic parts that are at the end of their life span. But other than that if you can look for, forward, backwards, zigzag and change stitch length then that will probably do you fine for almost anything. And nearly every machine has those. Try to get a main brand because parts like bobbins are always available. Singer, brother, janome, ….there are a couple of other options, perhaps others will chime in. Don’t get an unknown brand. But my point is, you can get a decent machine without spending silly money.
@@dees3179 All very good info, thank you. I was already over-wordy, & felt that explaining that I do in fact, have a vintage/antique machine but can't afford to have it checked over, would distract from the overall... essay? My brain ain't braining right with words lately, and it likes yanking easier language from me in favour of more stilted stuff. I think I need a nap 🙃
I was a goth kid who made her first corset in 1998, and I definitely remember the corsetry forums and trading tips. We were making dummies out of t-shirts, duct tape, and polyfill. I learned how to pound in grommets and where to order spiral steel. Since I have dabbled a bit in historical costuming, and I absolutely love that stays have come back into fashion! I can't get used to them being worn without an undershirt or chemise-like garment, it still looks a bit wrong to me.
Bernadette Banner, as of late, I've seen with the knitting community a rise in separate tie-on/attachable ornate collars so, the possibility of multiple layer ruffled, ruffs, can comeback as a trend.
Regarding cottage core, one name you are missing is Laura Ashley. Late 70s and early 80s ruffles, simulated corsets. Pure cottage core. I made a few of those dresses because they were the absolute opposite of my work wardrobe of tailor-made suits.
I first got into corsets because I got into the early 2000's goth scene and I can’t say that I don't love seeing other subcultures embracing them now ❤
As a teenager in the 80’s I remember wanting to dress like Madonna and my mother greatly disapproving of that trend… Decades later and my kids loved everything about steampunk… I think it’s a great look! As a brilliant commentator said, they are called stays for a reason!
What I don't get is people who basically say "Oh, you like historical fashion? That must mean you want to live in the past and believe in all of their problematic viewpoints!" I'm like, "No, I just like clothes and nature. Jeez."
I've come to love the statement "vintage fashion, not vintage values" for just that reason. I love petticoats and long skirts, and also antibiotics and the right to vote.
I'm a Living Historian, so I spend a a lot of time in centuries other than my own. I love visiting, but I'm extremely happy to not live in those centuries!
You hang around obnoxious woketards to much maybe and when I hear the word "problematic" coming up in someones argument, I turn my back cause I know I am talking to a constantly offended know it all with a miserable life. The past had some viewpoints that are better than todays too wghen it comes to certain things.
As someone who doesn't understand why so much of the fashion industry spends a lot of effort trying to make things look hideous, I very much appreciate how eloquently you analyze and describe things. I've learned a lot from your videos. Thank you.
As a novice seamstress and patternmaker, My gess for the popularity of satys over corsets, is that stays-like-tops are easier to make. the patern is simpler, since the conical shape requires no gussets or math, the straps make you sure the piece is secure in place, and there is no busk to worry about, in fact, you can have lacing in the front and the back, making a much more ajustable garment (the lacing straps also help for people with both short and long torso). I've made 2 victorian corsets for myself, and never made a pattern for one, since it seems really hard, but in the last months i've made 2 pattern for stays, ive made 5 garments out of them, 3 were from upcycled jeans pants, and i've also turned a old dress that didn't fit me inot another stays shaped little top. victorian corset are a lot harder to make and need more engeniering, they need to fit you very well and are really unconfortable when not fitting, whyle stays can be very forgiving and ajustable
Was planning on cosplaying Astarion from BG3 and wanted to make a corset just for the looks, but now this comment is making me think I should start with stays instead. Either way, they both look pretty, so it's a win win.
My thought was that stays seem more similar to bras in that they support by holding up from the top compared to corsets supporting from under. As a trans person, they look like a binder in that there's less of cups and more straight lines. 😅 Most of my binders were 3/4 length, approximately where the waist drops off on a stay. So I think structurally, a stay is more bra-like, appealing more to people who can try it out without feeling as weird. For corsets, there's still the misconceptions going about on cinching waists too tight so there's definitely also a fear factor in there. People have to be much more daring to give corsets a try, unless it's already part of their aesthetic.
@@chillfactory9000 stays are definitely easier. My 2 attempts at corset making ended up too long for my short body, is really hard to get them right. I definitely recommend trying out if you want, but if is a costume that you plan on using, I would go with an easier option
@@YaaLFH I guess you mean with wires. I've never actually worn a wired bra since I didn't have much to support. It just looked painful to me to have something that hard so close to the skin when I normally wear baggy clothes.
I watch your promo spots. It astonishes me that all of the marketing world has not yet learned from you that ads can be engaging. Your humor and distinctly off center point of view are brilliant.
Oh, thank goodness Bernadette mentioned Marie Antoinette. She truly was the OG of Cottagecore! ❤ thanks for putting her credit in this video Bernadette!! 🥰 love it!
In the 90s, I made dozens of wedding and evening gowns for people based on 18th C and Renaissance garments. The look was BIG, and it was stays-based though we didn't call them that (before the internet there wasn't a lot to learn from) and down in NZ we didn't have much of a range of materials to work with. I have to smile at making a lace up the front bodice and pushing piping cord down the boning channels to make them more ridgy. Those were the days! ;-)
I feel like which period corsetry comes back in style has a lot more to do with the waistline that is popular at the time. We are in an era of high waisted and crop tops so the Victorian style doesn't work as well with what is already in fashion. Back in the 2000s when everything was ultra low waisted, they made a lot more sense.
I'm so glad that you mentioned the Romantization of the Past part. Though I would argue this went back even farther during even the Renissance and 1600s, but in paintings mostly. (we talked about this in my main classes for my Art Historian Bacholars Degree) They romantized the Medivial garb quite a bit and it wasn't that far ago, but they also romantized the Greeks an roman garb which *some* argue that the Edwardian took some of the sillouettes from due to paintings of the past gave such a romancization of them. The Togas have similar shapes to the Edwardian women's dresses, just more structored. Rococo paintings also compounded the Romanization of both the "Rural Aethetic" but also the Greek myths even more. Just with extreamly floaty and pastel melancholy of missing the "ease of the past" where you could "lounge around in the beautiful sun and simple love." It was also a counter balance to the Baroque's Dyamic, over the top theatrics of heavy fabrics and harsh lines to read a scene since Rococo was also very painterly in comparison. Marie Antonitte preferred of course the Roccoco Aethetic over the Baroque when you see paintings of herself and the "cottage core" lean to her personal attire. (I would go on even more so but this comment would take forever to write so for now I'll leave it here)
@@karladenton5034 We actually touched a *little* on that but not enough to honestly stick unfortantly. Though honestly I would love to learn more about that movement because some artsts do actually pull from that time and if you have any reccomendations on reading for that infomation, I would love that! (Sorry for the long reply, I wanted to reply sooner but things kept taking prioriety after I posted)
@@clara_hp6254 ^Yeah I was considering putting that in since I learned this in my Fairy Tale class I took in collage but noticed it was rather long already so I just stuck to one medium in this case that was core study at the time (and also I didn't want to spread misinfomation for those who did study more into it). But you are correct on this from what I remember from that class. Thank you for confirming that thought.
(Commenting before finishing the video, playing with fire) So in asking why the stays are the current popular style and the one embraced by cottagecore over Victorian corsets, I'd add an additional theory- that Victorian corsets with their busks and steel boning and such are associated with industrialized society, which is explicitly the opposite of the vibe that cottagecore is going for. Stays are literally from a time before industrialization, before much of modern society as we know it was built, a "simpler" time. Corsets are remembered as being worn by people living in cities populated by factories and trains and all sorts of manmade technology.
I was thinking the same! The Victorian era is not particularly correlated with rural life in the collective aesthetic consciousness - obviously people have lived in rural areas in all periods throughout history, but if you tell the average person to "picture living in the Victorian era," they're probably imagining either a rapidly industrializing London or a Downton Abbey-style fancy manor house with servants, neither of which really evoke the homespun cottagecore vibe.
A friend of mine wore a codpiece at his Tudor styled wedding and rigged it up with one of those things that play a tune from a greeting card so that it would play when it got squeezed.
I love Bernadettes videos on corset and stays and other supportive garments. I wear Corsets on long days as supportive garmets to help me from slouching and giving my muscles a rest. Having EDS my muscles are always holding me up because my connective tissue is too weak to hold me up like a normal body. I think its awesome to see them more popularised and used as garmet pieces.
Christmas video idea: I would like you to analyze the historical costuming in all the different versions of a Christmas Carol. I just think it would be interesting to how the different movies compared to each other and they’re all referencing the same story and time period. 🎄
Abby Cox did a video about how accurate the outfits in Muppet Christmas Carol are, a few years ago! Even for the puppets, the costumes are just amazing, really.
ah i watched it live, it was very good but i was wondering about the historical accuracy. no one seemed to be wearing corsets but to be fair they were singing and dancing live
Another piece of their return to popularity, in my opinion, was also the return of the popularity of bare midriff / short tops with high-waist bottoms. The need for cropped tops which still provide some support was a natural fashion hole that modern stays / "corsets" could fill.
Thanks for more food for thought. The idea that corsets and stays can help support the heavy skirts was what resonated, cause I'm trying to figure out what I need to wear underneath my plate mail battle armour so that my hips don't end up bruised by all the stuff hanging off of them. Now I'm considering maybe corded stays or corset just to try to put something between my armour belt and my spare tire so that things squish in a predictable and controlled manner rather than "if you didn't get your belt on exactly right you're gonna pinch something" :P
I love wearing my corsets. Sometimes as undergarment and sometimes to “show” them off. Older women sort of freak out but the younger ones don’t comment at all. Hilarious. Thank you for all your information and of course showing off your Guinea Pigs 💕
Bodices/stays worn as an external garment has been a staple of the Renaissance Festival circuit since the 80s/90s at least, and worn outside of that context as well. Source: my social circles in my 20s.
The modern style of "corset" was very popular in the late-90's/early 2000's (source: Owned several high street versions, including a black one with pink piping that I wore until it fell apart. Paired with some lovely low cut jeans). Which fits given early 2000's fashion seems to be coming back.
This is true! I had a pink and black one too, and a green one from Jane Norman 😆 I was wearing them for goth reasons but I got them from normal high street shops
Thanks for the blast from the past with the dial up noises. I adored the corsets in the 2000s but never had the nerve to get one for myself. And this is so timely as I'm just about to finish making my first stay-style corset. Lovely trip through history as always, Bernadette.
I thought the modern interpretation was referred to as a “bustier” top, the styles that aren’t corsets. I feel like “corset” gets added to the title/description of the clothing for sale because it’s a vaguely similar but far more common word
Can I just point out that - beside your generally great video content - you are also making the best sponsor advertisements! They are so funny and creative 😄
You have made me aware of the beauty and comfort of corsets. I love a foundation garment as opposed to trying to sculpt one’s own body into an impossible shape. My mother’s foundation garment was a girdle and I thought it looked uncomfortable and unattractive. Saving up for a handmade corset, because, alas, I take no joy in my pitiful sewing skills.
Very interesting vlog as usual. The term 'Cottage core" was preceded by the Pastoral movement, romanticizing the close-to-nature lives of shepherds and shepherdesses, which goes back to Daphnis and Chloe in Greek literature, but had its greatest flowering during the Renaissance in Italy, France and England and continued in literature, painting, dance and as fashionable dress among aristocrats like Marie Antoinette. Aphra Behn (1640 - 1689), the first woman to support herself as a writer in England, was so enamored of the novels Astrea and Celadon (L'Astree) by the French author Honore D'Urfe, that she wrote under the pastoral pseudonym Astrea.
With regards to cottagecore's preference for stays over corsets, I think there might also be an association between Victorian meaning industrialization that lends to 19th century meaning a more simple, homespun life style.
Please, oh please, I hope Bernadette’s video teaches people that it’s not pronounced “core-set”! And was that our Rachel Maksy in a cottage core example?!?❤️
I love that you used that cropped picture of Amy Lee but I immediately recognised her 😆 can't take the 2000s goth teen out of me... (though I also immediately recognised denim Britney because she was my 90s obsession lol)
I'm a experimental artist who minored in classics once upon a time, and your channel is my favorite on youtube! I leaned all my sewing knowledge from you and managed to make my first ever costume (entirely handsewn)! Thank you for all you do!
I love that you mentioned Westwood. She is the reason i started to love stays and corsets and broke me out of the stigma against them. I also love the sexy aspect that the 2000s had on the corset. I don’t know I just really like it. So I see the corset and a symbol of sexual liberation.
I would love to see a modern interpretation of gates to hell surcotte. Or "viking" apron dress. Mainly because I would love to wear my more historical pieces to work and still be within the office dresscode :D I just... can you imagine the staff meetings?
I've heard from people who worked in very old companies, with very outdated office dress codes that simply hadn't ever been reviewed or revised after their initial establishment - sometimes these are people already into historical dress, sometimes they're very modern mainstream people trying to perform malicious compliance, either way the outcome is similar, they end up wearing clothing to work that is very much out of fashion - but is technically what the dress code calls for - and a series of meetings about the dress code ensue.
@@katanah3195 oh yeah, I am already helping to change the maintenance uniforms, and on the coldest days walking around like a Victorian peasant in homeknitted garments. To push it all the way to viking age might be a bit much 😁
Honestly Bernadette, I got mine because of you 😅 My partner got a little raise this summer, so took me to get some proper ones in Camden. I have two; an underbust corset, and an overbust. The woman in the shop tried sooooo many on me because I have "the perfect combo" (big boobs/hips and tiny waist). Had to learn how to lace them (as did my partner), and wear them in for like, a week. I adore them, and it's thanks to you 😊❤
I wonder if something like Rational Dress or even "actual" medieval styles might make an appearance next. That'd be pretty awesome. I actually own a corset - haven't worn it in quite some time just because it's often FAR too hot in the southeastern US to be putting on such a thing, esp for a heavyset "Viking shaped" lady like myself, haha - I also was thinking - fashion is very visual, right, and I think you've mentioned before this that one of the factors in making 18th and 19th Century clothing more "familiar" (or do I mean, more of a thing that everyday folks can look at and say "hey I've seen something like that before!") - anyway, there was something of an explosion of fashion magazines, fashion plates in newspapers, and other such media in the late 18th Century, I think? So that now, every shop girl and nearly every village girl could get a glimpse of what the "famous people" were wearing - and wanted to emulate it where they could! I feel like that also plays a big part in how we got to this trend, but even more so it continues to feed the cycle. I would not know half as much as I do about ANY historical dress if I hadn't discovered your channel, after all. Everything I "know" about medieval clothing I learned out of books and from actually making a few costumes over the years, but I feel like the visual medium - watching you create and sew and design - has given me a different KIND of understanding of the clothing construction for the items you've focused on. I also know my sewing skills are very much NOT up to a standard that can handle making anything from 1600 on, haha! I have so much respect and awe for the skill you display so often and for the immense amount of time, energy, research, and practice that you've poured into your passion. It's truly lovely to share in the wonders you show us.
I could totally see medieval styles coming back sometime soon! I'm noticing medieval aesthetics on the rise in goth/alt circles (although that may be my own personal tastes that pushes that content in my algorithm lol), and knightcore is a somewhat popular niche of the cottagecore extended trend universe. Plus on the more lighthearted side of things, I've seen an uptick in memes and tiktoks celebrating or feeling nostalgic about that particular style of 90s/Y2K Ren-faire dark fantasy goth art/fashion (impossible to describe haha but you'd know it when you see it, sort of the goth equivalent of that "three wolf moon t-shirt" style), which would have been considered the height of cringe a few years ago but now seems to be cresting the wave of ironic appreciation into "unironically good actually". Personally I'm thrilled with the corset revival and would be equally excited for a medieval trend surge; it feels like it's never been easier to find cute clothes from mainstream brands as someone kinda gothy who still needs to dress like an adult.
Another aspect of the fossilisation/romanticisation of C18th fashions is that, for reasons which I believe may be linked to the timing of the industrialisation of Europe/America, most traditional national costumes are based on what was being worn in the relevent area during the C18th. Dirndl costumes being the most obvious example. This look is then associated with fairy tale characters and influences ballet costumes as well as, of course, cottage-core.
Working at Ren Faires, stays are required outer wear for women, no matter what character portraying. I have both peasant and court outfits as I played different characters over the years, including Mary Tudor Brandon, Dowager Queen of France / English Princess.and a Scottish shepherdess. Our group also sang acapella Madrigals. During the Xmas holidays we shed our stays and moved into Victorian corsets and high fashion of 1855 to sing acapella traditional carols. They really helped our backs while we spent hours standing and walking. I am happy they are around to support those who need it and to make fashion statements. Yes, we all learned to breathe and sing. Even a few guys wore them under their clothes as support.
I always love your videos on corsets. As an elder goth I have a great fondness of them and love how the current young people are exploring in ways I never would have imagined being 'acceptable' But, more piggy interruptions please :)
You certainly are a master writer of whatever topic you deem worthy of your energy. I’m sure you could turn all your research articles into a wonderful book if you wanted to. Very nicely done as usual. Thank you for your insights. I’m sure you could teach a class about all these historical trends even. 😊
Such corsets also crossed over to other alt fashion, with a stay style corsets trending in lolita fashion and gothic having also a moment. I actually realized I took part with a corset I am still waiting for from an online pre order some time ago. I think fashion wise they can really work well with the layering trend (which also brought more decorative aprons trand). This video is very interesting and I loled when your kavi was the star of the commercial! Your filming skills really shined with the whole nature- documentary style.
In my mom’s opinion they’re also better than modern shapewear like the SPANX because it’s a lot easier for her to use the bathroom in and they give the exact same effect as a SPANX
I wish I could "super like" this video. I was absolutely riveted! This entire video is my asthetic 💖✨I've been obsessed with corsets my whole life. Vivienne Westwood was my fashion icon back in the 90's, her and Versace. I just LOVE structual garments and bringing my two passions together: historical fashion and haute couture. Thank you, Bernadette, for producing such a brilliant video. It was well researched, beautifully spoken, agreeable, and entertaining 👏 I love this new fashion era we're getting now, with the cottage core, steam punk, dark acedemia asthetics ❤ This is right up my alley. I love that we, as adults, can wear whatever the hell we want now 💃 And with Bernadette leading the charge ⚔for us to be ourselves and wear what makes us happy, we're in safe hands. Big love from Manchester UK xXx
I still remember the expression on the face of the clerks/saleswomen at the clothing store I visited in 1990 looking for a fuschia bustier (or similar corset or stay, but the internet did not exist so I did not know the term) to go with the beautiful boxy silk feminine blazer I had at the time. For an modest and somewhat naive young lady, I certainly scandalized half the city looking for something I never found (had to settle for an unstructured tank top)
love this video!! I think another significant factor in the cottagecore aesthetic trend adapting/adopting something closer to 18th century stays than a victorian corset is the connection of cottagecore with de-industrial, rural slow living. The 19th century (and ergo its fashion) carries connotations of industrialisation and urbanisation which contradict the home-made, rustic ideals of cottagecore. Whereas, 18th century is idealised (both by us and the victorian Romantics) as a sort of pre-mechanisation, pastoral and unspoilt environment. It thus seems obvious to me that cottagecore would lean towards the 18th century rather than the 19th when looking for aesthetic inspiration.
i just love that scene in briderton where they"tight-lace" regency long stays because they put so much effort in making something soft smooth and rounded look compressive it looks like a fluffy teddy bear trying to me menacing
I saw a video recently where someone experimented with making a chest binder inspired by stays. I think it would be cool if these kinds of corset-inspired garments stick around a little, because as I’ve heard mention of, I think from this channel, they allow the creation of different silhouettes without permanent alterations to the body underneath. Which could be useful for a lot of different reasons! I’ve forgotten a lot about the topic of corsets/stays; I should look more into them.
I’m loving this kind of content! There are a whole bunch of historically-inspired trends I’ve noticed lately that could be a future topic. I know menswear isn’t your speciality, but I’ve seen a lot more incorporation of vintage military surplus pieces into outfits (including actual military uniforms, the U.S. Army just brought back their WW2-style uniforms). There’s certainly a lot of history in that area that could be fascinating.
My personal attribute of cottagecore in my life goes all the way back to the very first issue of Victoria Magazine in 1987. My mother subscribed to the magazine all the way till its stoppage in 2003. In the back of every issue were mail order forms for historical corset patterns from multiple eras, not just Victorian. Combine the ad section for shoes, skirts, shirts, and foundations of times gone by with the garden fairy frolicking photo extravaganza for the eyeballs in its color pages, and it was a recipe for much daydreaming of what my wardrobe was going to look like when I was in control of what I purchased and wore. Add the internet sales of everything under the sun decades later and suddenly the world of fashion is no longer limited by what you can get mail ordered through the local general store you visit twice a year on trips into town from the homestead. if the internet has done nothing else, it has freed us to be anything we can imagine being by giving us access to the resources to achieve it no matter where you live.
Adorable how you crawl under furniture to follow and photograph your little guinea pig. I love your channel, you are so much fun and the clothes are stunning.
If the garments of the 18th century used so much fabric and lace, how many "day wear" garments did a woman own and rotate thru the week? Today we have larger closets and more money to spend on "day wear" fashion. I appreciate your mention of the cyclical nature of fashion elements. The historical context you bring to the discussion adds a sense of authenticity that I am looking for. For a long time, we have been told untruths about period fashion by way of theatrical productions that claim to "know" the correct fashions to depict a period. Error has been repeated until we think we "know". Is it that we want the romance rather than the truth?
Probably not near as many as modern people have to rotate through. Puts me in mind of anime and/or cartoon characters, always wearing the same outfit for "budget" reasons. x'D But fr, they probably had more underlayers, like shifts, so that they could get the most wear out of clothes before washing their outer-most layers (laundry was so back-breaking and time-intensive). Especially since clothing in general was expensive, just the cloth even before you get into intricate details of an actual outfit. And nobody (middle class or lower) wanted to ruin one of their between 1 and maybe 3 good dresses.
I dipped my toes into the corset trend for fun and saw great results in reducing back pain caused from hypermobility and sitting in a desk all day. Now I have a collection of steel boned corsets and will probably never go back to bras.
The ad from the sponsor! Omg! I LOOOVE that you do something creative with it, and i looove seeing your lovely guinnea pig on screen! Here some more exclamation points to get my point across!!!!!!!!!!!
these videos are the only thing helping my sanity whenever i mention to people in discussions that corsets do not have to be an example of misogyny, the same way bras aren't
Pausing at 09:40 to just applaud your research, knowledge and detailed descriptions, this is art in itself. Thank you for making life more beautiful Bernadette ❤
Also to add: I got married in a registry office in Dec 2005 in a self-designed outfit: baby pink satin steel boned corset made to measure in a sex shop, baby pink bridesmaids skirt with train, white cropped faux fur jacket, red sparkly “Dorothy” shoes with bows, it’s still something I’m delighted I did, it raised a few eyebrows but I felt wonderful and still love the photos.
Fascinating, this is the sort of video I love from Bernadette Banner! Btw, on non-ironic return of the ruff: I think it make be closer than you think. Tie on collars have become a thing recently. They were a few years ago too, but the ones today are much wider and showier, squint and they're not unlike some of the lace collars from c.17-19 centuries. Also, in the National Gallery shop at the end of the Frans Hals exhibition I saw lace tie-on collars and ruff-like wristbands that imitated some of the portraits. Perhaps a niche subculture (think dark academia), but maybe a sign of things to come (here's hoping lol!).
I'm so ready for the comeback of elizabethan ruffled collars, can't wait to wear mine in public. Oh how much patience is needed when you're an avant-gardiste.
You have such a professional manner, I am very impressed and grateful for how much meticulous research and learning you have done. Your content feels like a well-produced documentary, and I could see it being used in schools for how professional and historically accurate it is. You are a true historian! 🙌
I think Bernadette needs to give herself some credit for starting the corset/stay trend because I remember seeing her red dress copycat video appear several times in my feed in 2019 and then going down the rabbit hole of corsets, then quarantine hit.
I've been becoming more and more attracted to historical techniques in making clothes more adjustable! Having a body that wants to have significantly different dimensions inch-wise day to day and also throughout the day, as well as sensory issues, exploring different ways garments have been constructed throughout time, including skirts that tie at the front and the back apron style, and especially corsetry/stays and other bits that can be expanded and tightened in ways zippers don't allow for - i've also been having fun experimenting with these styles and velcro, just making the styles I love more accessible to me and my needs in different ways!
I saw the video and I was like "Oh, look. This is about me" lol. I am OBSESSED with Stays. I 100% know is bc I'm obsessed with period dramas/period fashion but I am so happy that they are trending because that also made them so accessible and I was finally able to buy some that didn't cost a fortune (locally made, no fast fashion) and I LOVE them. They are so comfortable, so beautiful.
Use code BERNADETTEBANNER at the link below to get an exclusive 60% off an annual Incogni plan: incogni.com/bernadettebanner
It looks like the art at 12:24 was AI generated, Bernadette. You might wanna make a mention of that in your description, since you've been so vocally against that kinda thing in previous videos. I'm sure it just slipped past you!
Subscribed, thank you for the annual subscription deal. I don't usually subscribe as most sponsors don't apply to me, but this one did. Love your videos, clever, educational and entertaining. The secret to good videos!
Your ad is hilarious.
@@PalitatoAgreed!
I need to say, your data broker is extremely cute. hilarious ad. thanks
TikTok girlies: This corset trend is totally fresh!
Bernadette: Do not quote the deep magic to me, witches; I was there when it was written.
Loving the Narnia reference!
She's a vampire
This comment wins.
Bernadette's mum's generation: You were there? Oh, adorable!
If she's aslan, at least she has her reepicheeps in the form of the piggies! Her sibling made them royal but now it's time to arm them to truly defend her. And yes I know reepicheep was the end of the world not the beginning but the mice were there
Given how long they have stood the test of time and fashion, stays was indeed a worthy name!
😂
You get a medal 🏅
Take my like
nice!
Yep, they've got staying power.
The etymology of this is something I've been meaning to look up but am almost afraid to. My str8 brother would probably be super excited about what they're "staying" but this gaybro is not so intrepid 🤔
Corsets keep coming back because they look DAMN good. They can be whimsical or sexy or fancy or simple. They're gorgeous, adjustable, and just heckin neat.
As someone with big boobs, I find corsets comfier than modern bras. I think it's because I don't have the weight of them "hanging" from my shoulders, but kinda hugged from below.
@@Nikki-tx6khYou’re right. They also have many benefits including comfort, support and even health
@@Nikki-tx6kh You need to get properly fitted. A modern bra in your actual size should not hang from your shoulders - the weight is supposed to be supported by the bra band and cup construction, very much like by a corset. Straps are just there to keep it in place.
@@YaaLFH There comes a point where the weight is so much that the band would have to be too tight to be comfortable in order to properly support. When I got top surgery, mine weighed 7 lbs.
@@axolirvin971 There's much more that can be supported without the band having to be too tight to be comfortable than you think.
I've been wearing between 30J to 34K most of my adult life and never had to suffer bands too tight for comfort.
I really love the idea that fashion has slowly become more and more about figuring out personal aesthetic. Like, trends obviously still exist, but nothing is really “out” anymore. You see a body in 1950’s and it’s just “huh, she’s a vintage gal” and then the next person is in top hats and Victorian corsets and “she’s steampunk”. There seems to be less “oh, how out of date” or what have you. It’s nice. Thank you for sharing ❤ Bernadette, it’s been as educational and lovely as I have come to appreciate
Yeah, I think it's pretty cool. I heard someone say it sucks because now you have to become a brand of your own, but I prefer that to the threat of social clownery for being of a group or another.
Agree, and i also love it
Recently, my barber informed me that mullets are back in style. Truly, no styles are off the table.
I've been seeing a few creators with mullets and for the first time in 30+ years they didnt seem strange to me. It's so strange how something goes from "ewww" to "yeah that's fine"@@vigilantcosmicpenguin8721
@@vigilantcosmicpenguin8721oh girl I’m in the south, the mullet never left sadly
A reminder that bernadette IS in fact a fashion historian and not just a couturier.
A lady and a scholar.
This is so well-said! And obvious to all of us who love Bernadette and have watched all of her content. She has obviously spent so much time devouring the entire repository of plates in the archive and extant garments, and knows what to look for in sewn stitches and the way the fabric was made 🙌 and she's funny as fuck 😂 best academic ever
Ok, now that corsets and stays are making a comeback, can we also bring back fabulous hats? We can leave the dead birds on them in the past, but I just want some tiny hats that are also ridiculously elaborate.
Lowkey I feel like hats are kind of making a comeback with the crocheted works coming onto the scene the past few years,, so I could honestly see that transition into more structured hats similar to 17th-20th century garb!
Leave off the dead birds, substitute bird seed so you get live ones?
@@sarahr8311 While "live birds on my hat" SOUNDS like a fun idea, it would also lead to a lot of bird poop on my shoulders, so I'll pass. 😅
I think bucket hats are just phase 1 of hats coming back on the scene.
Hats became outdated when cars became widespread and the roof got lowered in the 50ies…they were no longer necessary against the elements and difficult to fit in a car…
i think the difference in silhouette has something to do with the fashionable silhouette of the time. in the early 2000s, low waisted jeans were in vogue. the longer corsets of the Victorian period did go along with the subcultures yes, but they also went along with the longer tops of that time. Now, with the staple of higher waist jeans/skirts and crop top combos, it makes sense that the corsets have adjusted their silhouettes to follow the modern trends. Longer historical corsets were more hourglass shaped, while stays were more conical and shorter, and that difference is being reflected in the modern versions.
I thought of low-rise jeans immediately too. I was a teenager in the early 2000s and I thought anything that drew attention to my natural waist was SO ugly 😂
This makes a lot of sense! As a short girlie I’ve been benefiting from recent trends for sure. Early 2000’s fashion was not kind of me 😂
Back lacing as a mean of adjusting those long types of figures, has also become somewhat tacky and out of style in favor of zippers and strechy fabrics that cannot really adjust structurally to those shapes with just S M L sizing. Stays and bodice based tops are more shape-flexible and cheaper to produce, since they need mainly to fit around the bust without considering waist girth too much. Honestly, many actual corset type tops look like they are just trying to save on fabric and seams
I went through a Victorian Gothic phase in high school. I read the classics, Dracula, Frankenstein, Jane Eyre, A Christmas Carol, I even read Jane Austin books, and none of them really talk about corsets. If anyone read books that were written in the time, you’ll notice, underwear doesn’t really get mentioned much. Maybe a brief mention of a shift in a waking up scene but that’s about it. However, book that were written in modern days but takes place in the past, never shut up about corsets. I think it’s because they were never sexualized or even made to oppressed women until now.
I’d actually be drawn to argue the opposite - they were not considered a ‘proper’ thing to talk or write about *because* of their sexualisation, rather than due to a lack of it. The term ‘unmentionables’ being used to describe undergarments or even men’s trousers in the 19th century tells us a great deal about the attitudes of the time toward anything that could even slightly hint toward sexuality. In avoiding mentioning their protagonist’s undergarments, the authors avoided being conflated with the disreputable realm of erotica, and instead retained the reader’s focus on the plot.
@@AshwynChappellThis is a very interesting point I hadn't immediately thought about. Well written!
@@AshwynChappellI'm sure there's possibly some degree to which this is true, especially in the later 19th century when Victorian cultural norms were really set in, but also something to consider... outside of romance novels/erotica, how much is underwear mentioned in novels even today? That's not because of some fear of sexuality, it's just because it's simply not relevant, just like lots of basic mundane elements of everyday life that aren't in any way exceptional to the characters or the readers. I'd lean towards that being the reason underwear doesn't come up much in these old classic novels. Everybody wears underwear, the people reading these novels presumably wore the same kind of underwear and so didn't need it spelled out to them any more so than you would.
@@marinary1326I would say that this is very close to the truth here. To us, corsets have taken on a romanticized sexualized meaning (though they are so amazingly beautiful that I'm glad they are stepping outside that light into a more broad use) but back when everyone word them they really were nothing but typical undergarments. Though there is also probably some truth in the fact that it was highly improper to talk about a ladies undergarments in media until relatively recent in a historical sense.
Having just read a Victorian erotic novel (published 1893), I can tell you some of them were VERY interested in ladies' undergarments.
no-one can get me to watch the whole sponsor segment like Bernadette! from film noir to the physical stunts to now the nature documentary of the guinea pigs... 😂 love it!
Piggies stole the whole show.
This was my FAVORITE ad experience ever. Please. More ads with the piggies 😍🤩😍
I definitely did not understand the severity of those fetishwear associations when I first started wearing a corset for pain management. People got super weird about it lol
Very glad to see that corsetry is becoming more socially accepted now!
By the way thank you to Bernadette for getting me into corsetry in the first place! This has been wonderful for my health!
The corset trend is also the number one fix for people who buy too-small dresses online and need a seamstress to make it fit!! 😂 they end up with a lace up back until the zipper can close!
Did that to my moms wedding dress for my wedding
Because of the rack clothes don't allow for weight fluctuation anymore.
Had my wedding dress refitted with lacing so that I wouldn't have to worry about the fit changing with fluctuations from tastings, meals, stress, timing in my cycle, or whatever else. It's super useful, and I hope it can be in common use again
Yeah, I considered doing that with a second Hand Dress thet fit perfectly at my hips and waist, but my ribcage did not allow for IT to BE closed by Like 10 centimeters . . . .but I did Not fill the Cups so I Chose to leave IT BE for someone more dainty with bigger breasts . . . .
Standardised Sizes are really wild
@@lucie4185Not Just that, they are Cut with a very specific Body Typ in mind and that Just might Not fit you at all, Intried Andreas in that fit perfectly around my waist and hip, the Cups where to Bug, but the Dress would Not Close, cause my rib Cage was to wide.
I have become fed up with bras over the past decades.
So now, after having watched you, and other historians building various styles of historical support garments, I finally started building my own.
I'm no longer worrying about adhering to an accurate method or particular aesthetic, I'm just building what's (hopefully) practical for my body. They're more like stays, so I can wear jeans & tshirts.
Second-hand chinos, dollar store needle/thread, solidified beeswax drippings to wax the thread. I ordered twill tape and synthetic boning.
I have dollar store grosgrain ribbon to reinforce where I'm going to sew in eyelets for lacing.
I'm hand sewing the whole thing coz I can't afford a sewing machine.
I'm probably about 1/3 done.
I'd've been finished by now if not for ADHD, lol
You seem to have a handle on the project, you must not be a beginner? I'd be curious to see (or read) how it comes out.
My fascination with historical fashion began because of my hatred of bras. I made a historical-ish support garment and will never go back. It feels like a hug and so much more comfy than any bra, even a sports bra. I hope yours turns out well and you love it! Imagine never needing to go bra shopping or spend outrageous amounts on a bra again!
Second hand sewing machines. Often very very much cheaper. If you know someone who sews well and can check it for you this might be a way to get hold of one. You need something quite mechanical, not full of plastic parts that are at the end of their life span. But other than that if you can look for, forward, backwards, zigzag and change stitch length then that will probably do you fine for almost anything. And nearly every machine has those. Try to get a main brand because parts like bobbins are always available. Singer, brother, janome, ….there are a couple of other options, perhaps others will chime in. Don’t get an unknown brand. But my point is, you can get a decent machine without spending silly money.
@@rainbowconnected Thank you! Your sharing of your experience and well wishes are very encouraging! 🤗💕
@@dees3179 All very good info, thank you.
I was already over-wordy, & felt that explaining that I do in fact, have a vintage/antique machine but can't afford to have it checked over, would distract from the overall... essay?
My brain ain't braining right with words lately, and it likes yanking easier language from me in favour of more stilted stuff.
I think I need a nap 🙃
I was a goth kid who made her first corset in 1998, and I definitely remember the corsetry forums and trading tips. We were making dummies out of t-shirts, duct tape, and polyfill. I learned how to pound in grommets and where to order spiral steel. Since I have dabbled a bit in historical costuming, and I absolutely love that stays have come back into fashion! I can't get used to them being worn without an undershirt or chemise-like garment, it still looks a bit wrong to me.
Bernadette Banner, as of late, I've seen with the knitting community a rise in separate tie-on/attachable ornate collars so, the possibility of multiple layer ruffled, ruffs, can comeback as a trend.
literally knitting one of these right now!
Ohh that sounds like fun!
I’ve been pinning neck ruffs for weeks on Pinterest with plans to attempt to make some to wear day to day. Let’s bring ‘em back!
Regarding cottage core, one name you are missing is Laura Ashley. Late 70s and early 80s ruffles, simulated corsets. Pure cottage core. I made a few of those dresses because they were the absolute opposite of my work wardrobe of tailor-made suits.
Jessica McClintock is another one.
I first got into corsets because I got into the early 2000's goth scene and I can’t say that I don't love seeing other subcultures embracing them now ❤
Same and same! I adore that they are in fashion now!
As a teenager in the 80’s I remember wanting to dress like Madonna and my mother greatly disapproving of that trend…
Decades later and my kids loved everything about steampunk… I think it’s a great look!
As a brilliant commentator said, they are called stays for a reason!
What I don't get is people who basically say "Oh, you like historical fashion? That must mean you want to live in the past and believe in all of their problematic viewpoints!" I'm like, "No, I just like clothes and nature. Jeez."
I've come to love the statement "vintage fashion, not vintage values" for just that reason. I love petticoats and long skirts, and also antibiotics and the right to vote.
I'm a Living Historian, so I spend a a lot of time in centuries other than my own. I love visiting, but I'm extremely happy to not live in those centuries!
You hang around obnoxious woketards to much maybe and when I hear the word "problematic" coming up in someones argument, I turn my back cause I know I am talking to a constantly offended know it all with a miserable life. The past had some viewpoints that are better than todays too wghen it comes to certain things.
The 'corset hydra' and 'cottagecore'? You are an outstanding teacher. Thank you and keep it up!
Correct usage of the work "gnarly"! I learn almost as much about language from her as I do about fashion
As someone who doesn't understand why so much of the fashion industry spends a lot of effort trying to make things look hideous, I very much appreciate how eloquently you analyze and describe things. I've learned a lot from your videos. Thank you.
As a novice seamstress and patternmaker, My gess for the popularity of satys over corsets, is that stays-like-tops are easier to make. the patern is simpler, since the conical shape requires no gussets or math, the straps make you sure the piece is secure in place, and there is no busk to worry about, in fact, you can have lacing in the front and the back, making a much more ajustable garment (the lacing straps also help for people with both short and long torso). I've made 2 victorian corsets for myself, and never made a pattern for one, since it seems really hard, but in the last months i've made 2 pattern for stays, ive made 5 garments out of them, 3 were from upcycled jeans pants, and i've also turned a old dress that didn't fit me inot another stays shaped little top. victorian corset are a lot harder to make and need more engeniering, they need to fit you very well and are really unconfortable when not fitting, whyle stays can be very forgiving and ajustable
Was planning on cosplaying Astarion from BG3 and wanted to make a corset just for the looks, but now this comment is making me think I should start with stays instead. Either way, they both look pretty, so it's a win win.
My thought was that stays seem more similar to bras in that they support by holding up from the top compared to corsets supporting from under. As a trans person, they look like a binder in that there's less of cups and more straight lines. 😅 Most of my binders were 3/4 length, approximately where the waist drops off on a stay. So I think structurally, a stay is more bra-like, appealing more to people who can try it out without feeling as weird. For corsets, there's still the misconceptions going about on cinching waists too tight so there's definitely also a fear factor in there. People have to be much more daring to give corsets a try, unless it's already part of their aesthetic.
@@chillfactory9000 stays are definitely easier. My 2 attempts at corset making ended up too long for my short body, is really hard to get them right. I definitely recommend trying out if you want, but if is a costume that you plan on using, I would go with an easier option
@@thundercat287 Properly constructed bras support from the bottom though.
@@YaaLFH I guess you mean with wires. I've never actually worn a wired bra since I didn't have much to support. It just looked painful to me to have something that hard so close to the skin when I normally wear baggy clothes.
I watch your promo spots. It astonishes me that all of the marketing world has not yet learned from you that ads can be engaging. Your humor and distinctly off center point of view are brilliant.
That was actually a great commercial!
See, that's how you get people to stop skipping the ad reads. Guinea pigs.
Oh, thank goodness Bernadette mentioned Marie Antoinette. She truly was the OG of Cottagecore! ❤ thanks for putting her credit in this video Bernadette!! 🥰 love it!
In the 90s, I made dozens of wedding and evening gowns for people based on 18th C and Renaissance garments. The look was BIG, and it was stays-based though we didn't call them that (before the internet there wasn't a lot to learn from) and down in NZ we didn't have much of a range of materials to work with. I have to smile at making a lace up the front bodice and pushing piping cord down the boning channels to make them more ridgy. Those were the days! ;-)
I feel like which period corsetry comes back in style has a lot more to do with the waistline that is popular at the time. We are in an era of high waisted and crop tops so the Victorian style doesn't work as well with what is already in fashion. Back in the 2000s when everything was ultra low waisted, they made a lot more sense.
I'm so glad that you mentioned the Romantization of the Past part. Though I would argue this went back even farther during even the Renissance and 1600s, but in paintings mostly. (we talked about this in my main classes for my Art Historian Bacholars Degree) They romantized the Medivial garb quite a bit and it wasn't that far ago, but they also romantized the Greeks an roman garb which *some* argue that the Edwardian took some of the sillouettes from due to paintings of the past gave such a romancization of them. The Togas have similar shapes to the Edwardian women's dresses, just more structored. Rococo paintings also compounded the Romanization of both the "Rural Aethetic" but also the Greek myths even more. Just with extreamly floaty and pastel melancholy of missing the "ease of the past" where you could "lounge around in the beautiful sun and simple love." It was also a counter balance to the Baroque's Dyamic, over the top theatrics of heavy fabrics and harsh lines to read a scene since Rococo was also very painterly in comparison. Marie Antonitte preferred of course the Roccoco Aethetic over the Baroque when you see paintings of herself and the "cottage core" lean to her personal attire. (I would go on even more so but this comment would take forever to write so for now I'll leave it here)
Don't forget to add in the Arts and Crafts movement "Artistic and Reform Dress" - Medieval Romanticism Take Whatever LOL.
The romantic period in writing also romanized the medieval times a lot and during the enlightenment, everything Greek and Roman was hugely popular
@@karladenton5034 We actually touched a *little* on that but not enough to honestly stick unfortantly. Though honestly I would love to learn more about that movement because some artsts do actually pull from that time and if you have any reccomendations on reading for that infomation, I would love that! (Sorry for the long reply, I wanted to reply sooner but things kept taking prioriety after I posted)
@@clara_hp6254 ^Yeah I was considering putting that in since I learned this in my Fairy Tale class I took in collage but noticed it was rather long already so I just stuck to one medium in this case that was core study at the time (and also I didn't want to spread misinfomation for those who did study more into it). But you are correct on this from what I remember from that class. Thank you for confirming that thought.
Cloud, Pepper, Bingley and Darcy have asked me to request that you make more guinea pig content as they are noble but ever hungry creatures.
(Commenting before finishing the video, playing with fire) So in asking why the stays are the current popular style and the one embraced by cottagecore over Victorian corsets, I'd add an additional theory- that Victorian corsets with their busks and steel boning and such are associated with industrialized society, which is explicitly the opposite of the vibe that cottagecore is going for. Stays are literally from a time before industrialization, before much of modern society as we know it was built, a "simpler" time. Corsets are remembered as being worn by people living in cities populated by factories and trains and all sorts of manmade technology.
Excellent point!
I was thinking the same! The Victorian era is not particularly correlated with rural life in the collective aesthetic consciousness - obviously people have lived in rural areas in all periods throughout history, but if you tell the average person to "picture living in the Victorian era," they're probably imagining either a rapidly industrializing London or a Downton Abbey-style fancy manor house with servants, neither of which really evoke the homespun cottagecore vibe.
I’m waiting for the return of the codpiece. 🤣🤣🤣 that was always such a popular piece of fashion in my historical fashion class LOL
Eh the same amount of people will still be dissapointed lol
Sports cups aren't too far off
Brings back memories of Ian Andersen from Jethro Tull playing electric flute in a codpiece
A friend of mine wore a codpiece at his Tudor styled wedding and rigged it up with one of those things that play a tune from a greeting card so that it would play when it got squeezed.
Well, if modern women are bringing back corsets, I guess it's time men have our own retro style.
I love Bernadettes videos on corset and stays and other supportive garments. I wear Corsets on long days as supportive garmets to help me from slouching and giving my muscles a rest. Having EDS my muscles are always holding me up because my connective tissue is too weak to hold me up like a normal body. I think its awesome to see them more popularised and used as garmet pieces.
Christmas video idea: I would like you to analyze the historical costuming in all the different versions of a Christmas Carol. I just think it would be interesting to how the different movies compared to each other and they’re all referencing the same story and time period. 🎄
Abby Cox did a video about how accurate the outfits in Muppet Christmas Carol are, a few years ago! Even for the puppets, the costumes are just amazing, really.
ah i watched it live, it was very good but i was wondering about the historical accuracy. no one seemed to be wearing corsets but to be fair they were singing and dancing live
Another piece of their return to popularity, in my opinion, was also the return of the popularity of bare midriff / short tops with high-waist bottoms. The need for cropped tops which still provide some support was a natural fashion hole that modern stays / "corsets" could fill.
Thanks for more food for thought. The idea that corsets and stays can help support the heavy skirts was what resonated, cause I'm trying to figure out what I need to wear underneath my plate mail battle armour so that my hips don't end up bruised by all the stuff hanging off of them. Now I'm considering maybe corded stays or corset just to try to put something between my armour belt and my spare tire so that things squish in a predictable and controlled manner rather than "if you didn't get your belt on exactly right you're gonna pinch something" :P
I love wearing my corsets. Sometimes as undergarment and sometimes to “show” them off. Older women sort of freak out but the younger ones don’t comment at all. Hilarious.
Thank you for all your information and of course showing off your Guinea Pigs 💕
1:24 this is the greatest ad break I have ever seen
I actually wore a corset to my friend’s wedding. It was the most comfortable undergarment I had for spending a long time dressed up. Looked good too!
Bodices/stays worn as an external garment has been a staple of the Renaissance Festival circuit since the 80s/90s at least, and worn outside of that context as well. Source: my social circles in my 20s.
The modern style of "corset" was very popular in the late-90's/early 2000's (source: Owned several high street versions, including a black one with pink piping that I wore until it fell apart. Paired with some lovely low cut jeans). Which fits given early 2000's fashion seems to be coming back.
This is true! I had a pink and black one too, and a green one from Jane Norman 😆 I was wearing them for goth reasons but I got them from normal high street shops
@@Sophie_Cleverly Same. It was a pretty good time to be a goth with very little money 😂
Thanks for the blast from the past with the dial up noises. I adored the corsets in the 2000s but never had the nerve to get one for myself. And this is so timely as I'm just about to finish making my first stay-style corset. Lovely trip through history as always, Bernadette.
Can you do an updated wardrobe try on? I have watched your dark/witchy academia video several times! Your new pieces fit so well!
I thought the modern interpretation was referred to as a “bustier” top, the styles that aren’t corsets. I feel like “corset” gets added to the title/description of the clothing for sale because it’s a vaguely similar but far more common word
Thanks Bernadette, Heathcliff and Danny! Great work as usual
Can I just point out that - beside your generally great video content - you are also making the best sponsor advertisements! They are so funny and creative 😄
You have made me aware of the beauty and comfort of corsets. I love a foundation garment as opposed to trying to sculpt one’s own body into an impossible shape. My mother’s foundation garment was a girdle and I thought it looked uncomfortable and unattractive.
Saving up for a handmade corset, because, alas, I take no joy in my pitiful sewing skills.
Very interesting vlog as usual. The term 'Cottage core" was preceded by the Pastoral movement, romanticizing the close-to-nature lives of shepherds and shepherdesses, which goes back to Daphnis and Chloe in Greek literature, but had its greatest flowering during the Renaissance in Italy, France and England and continued in literature, painting, dance and as fashionable dress among aristocrats like Marie Antoinette. Aphra Behn (1640 - 1689), the first woman to support herself as a writer in England, was so enamored of the novels Astrea and Celadon (L'Astree) by the French author Honore D'Urfe, that she wrote under the pastoral pseudonym Astrea.
Intriguing astute contribution TY
I love your "professor" mode and your humor!
With regards to cottagecore's preference for stays over corsets, I think there might also be an association between Victorian meaning industrialization that lends to 19th century meaning a more simple, homespun life style.
Please, oh please, I hope Bernadette’s video teaches people that it’s not pronounced “core-set”! And was that our Rachel Maksy in a cottage core example?!?❤️
That was the first sponser spot I've watched all the way through in a while. Well done.
same! cute pets are a cheatcode
Bernadette' s sponsor spots are the best!
I love that you used that cropped picture of Amy Lee but I immediately recognised her 😆 can't take the 2000s goth teen out of me... (though I also immediately recognised denim Britney because she was my 90s obsession lol)
I'm a experimental artist who minored in classics once upon a time, and your channel is my favorite on youtube! I leaned all my sewing knowledge from you and managed to make my first ever costume (entirely handsewn)! Thank you for all you do!
A very House Hippo style ad break. Made me giggle. I still want a house hippo!
I love that you mentioned Westwood. She is the reason i started to love stays and corsets and broke me out of the stigma against them. I also love the sexy aspect that the 2000s had on the corset. I don’t know I just really like it. So I see the corset and a symbol of sexual liberation.
I would love to see a modern interpretation of gates to hell surcotte. Or "viking" apron dress. Mainly because I would love to wear my more historical pieces to work and still be within the office dresscode :D I just... can you imagine the staff meetings?
I've heard from people who worked in very old companies, with very outdated office dress codes that simply hadn't ever been reviewed or revised after their initial establishment - sometimes these are people already into historical dress, sometimes they're very modern mainstream people trying to perform malicious compliance, either way the outcome is similar, they end up wearing clothing to work that is very much out of fashion - but is technically what the dress code calls for - and a series of meetings about the dress code ensue.
@@katanah3195 oh yeah, I am already helping to change the maintenance uniforms, and on the coldest days walking around like a Victorian peasant in homeknitted garments. To push it all the way to viking age might be a bit much 😁
Honestly Bernadette, I got mine because of you 😅
My partner got a little raise this summer, so took me to get some proper ones in Camden. I have two; an underbust corset, and an overbust. The woman in the shop tried sooooo many on me because I have "the perfect combo" (big boobs/hips and tiny waist). Had to learn how to lace them (as did my partner), and wear them in for like, a week. I adore them, and it's thanks to you 😊❤
Sounds like you enjoyed your visit to Burleska!
@@YaaLFH that's a grandiose assumption to make given I never named the shop. What's Burleska?
@@LilyGrace95 Burleska is the corset shop in Camden Market.
@@YaaLFH Not the shop I went to 😅
I wonder if something like Rational Dress or even "actual" medieval styles might make an appearance next. That'd be pretty awesome. I actually own a corset - haven't worn it in quite some time just because it's often FAR too hot in the southeastern US to be putting on such a thing, esp for a heavyset "Viking shaped" lady like myself, haha -
I also was thinking - fashion is very visual, right, and I think you've mentioned before this that one of the factors in making 18th and 19th Century clothing more "familiar" (or do I mean, more of a thing that everyday folks can look at and say "hey I've seen something like that before!") - anyway, there was something of an explosion of fashion magazines, fashion plates in newspapers, and other such media in the late 18th Century, I think? So that now, every shop girl and nearly every village girl could get a glimpse of what the "famous people" were wearing - and wanted to emulate it where they could! I feel like that also plays a big part in how we got to this trend, but even more so it continues to feed the cycle. I would not know half as much as I do about ANY historical dress if I hadn't discovered your channel, after all.
Everything I "know" about medieval clothing I learned out of books and from actually making a few costumes over the years, but I feel like the visual medium - watching you create and sew and design - has given me a different KIND of understanding of the clothing construction for the items you've focused on.
I also know my sewing skills are very much NOT up to a standard that can handle making anything from 1600 on, haha! I have so much respect and awe for the skill you display so often and for the immense amount of time, energy, research, and practice that you've poured into your passion. It's truly lovely to share in the wonders you show us.
I could totally see medieval styles coming back sometime soon! I'm noticing medieval aesthetics on the rise in goth/alt circles (although that may be my own personal tastes that pushes that content in my algorithm lol), and knightcore is a somewhat popular niche of the cottagecore extended trend universe. Plus on the more lighthearted side of things, I've seen an uptick in memes and tiktoks celebrating or feeling nostalgic about that particular style of 90s/Y2K Ren-faire dark fantasy goth art/fashion (impossible to describe haha but you'd know it when you see it, sort of the goth equivalent of that "three wolf moon t-shirt" style), which would have been considered the height of cringe a few years ago but now seems to be cresting the wave of ironic appreciation into "unironically good actually". Personally I'm thrilled with the corset revival and would be equally excited for a medieval trend surge; it feels like it's never been easier to find cute clothes from mainstream brands as someone kinda gothy who still needs to dress like an adult.
11/10 advertisement. Would watch a whole documentary like that 😂
Another aspect of the fossilisation/romanticisation of C18th fashions is that, for reasons which I believe may be linked to the timing of the industrialisation of Europe/America, most traditional national costumes are based on what was being worn in the relevent area during the C18th. Dirndl costumes being the most obvious example. This look is then associated with fairy tale characters and influences ballet costumes as well as, of course, cottage-core.
Greatly educational video. Love seeing the modernization and changes. Also the piggies❤
Working at Ren Faires, stays are required outer wear for women, no matter what character portraying. I have both peasant and court outfits as I played different characters over the years, including Mary Tudor Brandon, Dowager Queen of France / English Princess.and a Scottish shepherdess. Our group also sang acapella Madrigals. During the Xmas holidays we shed our stays and moved into Victorian corsets and high fashion of 1855 to sing acapella traditional carols. They really helped our backs while we spent hours standing and walking. I am happy they are around to support those who need it and to make fashion statements. Yes, we all learned to breathe and sing. Even a few guys wore them under their clothes as support.
You are my top pick for person to unironically bring back the ruff
Here as a represent of ealry 2000s subculture! 00:51 this in dark-green still lives in my closet.
I always love your videos on corsets. As an elder goth I have a great fondness of them and love how the current young people are exploring in ways I never would have imagined being 'acceptable'
But, more piggy interruptions please :)
You certainly are a master writer of whatever topic you deem worthy of your energy. I’m sure you could turn all your research articles into a wonderful book if you wanted to. Very nicely done as usual. Thank you for your insights. I’m sure you could teach a class about all these historical trends even. 😊
Such corsets also crossed over to other alt fashion, with a stay style corsets trending in lolita fashion and gothic having also a moment. I actually realized I took part with a corset I am still waiting for from an online pre order some time ago.
I think fashion wise they can really work well with the layering trend (which also brought more decorative aprons trand).
This video is very interesting and I loled when your kavi was the star of the commercial! Your filming skills really shined with the whole nature- documentary style.
Im with you on the Ruff. I have one, but im scared to wear it with anything bc i dont wanna get clowned on quite literally
The writing in this video is untouchable immaculate. So comprehensive and so easy and engaging to follow and understand
In my mom’s opinion they’re also better than modern shapewear like the SPANX because it’s a lot easier for her to use the bathroom in and they give the exact same effect as a SPANX
I wish I could "super like" this video. I was absolutely riveted! This entire video is my asthetic 💖✨I've been obsessed with corsets my whole life. Vivienne Westwood was my fashion icon back in the 90's, her and Versace. I just LOVE structual garments and bringing my two passions together: historical fashion and haute couture. Thank you, Bernadette, for producing such a brilliant video. It was well researched, beautifully spoken, agreeable, and entertaining 👏 I love this new fashion era we're getting now, with the cottage core, steam punk, dark acedemia asthetics ❤ This is right up my alley. I love that we, as adults, can wear whatever the hell we want now 💃 And with Bernadette leading the charge ⚔for us to be ourselves and wear what makes us happy, we're in safe hands. Big love from Manchester UK xXx
I still remember the expression on the face of the clerks/saleswomen at the clothing store I visited in 1990 looking for a fuschia bustier (or similar corset or stay, but the internet did not exist so I did not know the term) to go with the beautiful boxy silk feminine blazer I had at the time. For an modest and somewhat naive young lady, I certainly scandalized half the city looking for something I never found (had to settle for an unstructured tank top)
Ivory. I forgot to mention the color of the silk blazer. I loved that thing
love this video!! I think another significant factor in the cottagecore aesthetic trend adapting/adopting something closer to 18th century stays than a victorian corset is the connection of cottagecore with de-industrial, rural slow living. The 19th century (and ergo its fashion) carries connotations of industrialisation and urbanisation which contradict the home-made, rustic ideals of cottagecore. Whereas, 18th century is idealised (both by us and the victorian Romantics) as a sort of pre-mechanisation, pastoral and unspoilt environment. It thus seems obvious to me that cottagecore would lean towards the 18th century rather than the 19th when looking for aesthetic inspiration.
i just love that scene in briderton where they"tight-lace" regency long stays because they put so much effort in making something soft smooth and rounded look compressive it looks like a fluffy teddy bear trying to me menacing
I saw a video recently where someone experimented with making a chest binder inspired by stays. I think it would be cool if these kinds of corset-inspired garments stick around a little, because as I’ve heard mention of, I think from this channel, they allow the creation of different silhouettes without permanent alterations to the body underneath. Which could be useful for a lot of different reasons! I’ve forgotten a lot about the topic of corsets/stays; I should look more into them.
What's the name of the video? I'd love to watch it. 🐻❄️
Really fascinating and I must also say I was riveted to your sponsorship spot. Normally I skip over them but this one was just *chef's kiss*
I’m loving this kind of content! There are a whole bunch of historically-inspired trends I’ve noticed lately that could be a future topic. I know menswear isn’t your speciality, but I’ve seen a lot more incorporation of vintage military surplus pieces into outfits (including actual military uniforms, the U.S. Army just brought back their WW2-style uniforms). There’s certainly a lot of history in that area that could be fascinating.
My personal attribute of cottagecore in my life goes all the way back to the very first issue of Victoria Magazine in 1987. My mother subscribed to the magazine all the way till its stoppage in 2003. In the back of every issue were mail order forms for historical corset patterns from multiple eras, not just Victorian. Combine the ad section for shoes, skirts, shirts, and foundations of times gone by with the garden fairy frolicking photo extravaganza for the eyeballs in its color pages, and it was a recipe for much daydreaming of what my wardrobe was going to look like when I was in control of what I purchased and wore. Add the internet sales of everything under the sun decades later and suddenly the world of fashion is no longer limited by what you can get mail ordered through the local general store you visit twice a year on trips into town from the homestead. if the internet has done nothing else, it has freed us to be anything we can imagine being by giving us access to the resources to achieve it no matter where you live.
Absolutely LOVED devouring my mom’s issues of Victoria Magazine. ♥️
Yes! Bring back the ruff! I love them!!!
Corsets will never die simply because they’re beautiful and everyone looks great with a waist that’s ABSOLUTELY CINCHED FOR THE GODS ✨💕⏳
it's always a good day when Bernadette posts 🌞
So eloquent
So many great points
So much cute Guinea Pig content
🌞💖🎉
Adorable how you crawl under furniture to follow and photograph your little guinea pig.
I love your channel, you are so much fun and the clothes are stunning.
If the garments of the 18th century used so much fabric and lace, how many "day wear" garments did a woman own and rotate thru the week? Today we have larger closets and more money to spend on "day wear" fashion. I appreciate your mention of the cyclical nature of fashion elements. The historical context you bring to the discussion adds a sense of authenticity that I am looking for. For a long time, we have been told untruths about period fashion by way of theatrical productions that claim to "know" the correct fashions to depict a period. Error has been repeated until we think we "know". Is it that we want the romance rather than the truth?
Probably not near as many as modern people have to rotate through. Puts me in mind of anime and/or cartoon characters, always wearing the same outfit for "budget" reasons. x'D But fr, they probably had more underlayers, like shifts, so that they could get the most wear out of clothes before washing their outer-most layers (laundry was so back-breaking and time-intensive). Especially since clothing in general was expensive, just the cloth even before you get into intricate details of an actual outfit. And nobody (middle class or lower) wanted to ruin one of their between 1 and maybe 3 good dresses.
I dipped my toes into the corset trend for fun and saw great results in reducing back pain caused from hypermobility and sitting in a desk all day. Now I have a collection of steel boned corsets and will probably never go back to bras.
Oh my goodness; that has to be the cutest sponsor ad ever! I love the use of the guinea pig.
as a person who loves history and had no idea of corsetry, i just learned a lot from you
The ad from the sponsor! Omg! I LOOOVE that you do something creative with it, and i looove seeing your lovely guinnea pig on screen! Here some more exclamation points to get my point across!!!!!!!!!!!
these videos are the only thing helping my sanity whenever i mention to people in discussions that corsets do not have to be an example of misogyny, the same way bras aren't
Pausing at
09:40 to just applaud your research, knowledge and detailed descriptions, this is art in itself. Thank you for making life more beautiful Bernadette ❤
Also to add: I got married in a registry office in Dec 2005 in a self-designed outfit: baby pink satin steel boned corset made to measure in a sex shop, baby pink bridesmaids skirt with train, white cropped faux fur jacket, red sparkly “Dorothy” shoes with bows, it’s still something I’m delighted I did, it raised a few eyebrows but I felt wonderful and still love the photos.
Those are the most adorable data brokers I have ever seen. The hunt to capture them is something I could have spent an hour happily watching.
Getting a shein ad on a Bernadette banner video is such whiplash 😅 thanks for the deep dive into this trend, I was hoping to hear your take on this :)
Fascinating, this is the sort of video I love from Bernadette Banner! Btw, on non-ironic return of the ruff: I think it make be closer than you think. Tie on collars have become a thing recently. They were a few years ago too, but the ones today are much wider and showier, squint and they're not unlike some of the lace collars from c.17-19 centuries. Also, in the National Gallery shop at the end of the Frans Hals exhibition I saw lace tie-on collars and ruff-like wristbands that imitated some of the portraits. Perhaps a niche subculture (think dark academia), but maybe a sign of things to come (here's hoping lol!).
I wonder if the tie-on collars are thanks, in part, to RBG?
I'm so ready for the comeback of elizabethan ruffled collars, can't wait to wear mine in public. Oh how much patience is needed when you're an avant-gardiste.
I LOVE the trend. Still haven't figured out how to work it into my own style but man, does it look amazing on the people rocking it!
You have such a professional manner, I am very impressed and grateful for how much meticulous research and learning you have done. Your content feels like a well-produced documentary, and I could see it being used in schools for how professional and historically accurate it is. You are a true historian! 🙌
I think Bernadette needs to give herself some credit for starting the corset/stay trend because I remember seeing her red dress copycat video appear several times in my feed in 2019 and then going down the rabbit hole of corsets, then quarantine hit.
I've been becoming more and more attracted to historical techniques in making clothes more adjustable! Having a body that wants to have significantly different dimensions inch-wise day to day and also throughout the day, as well as sensory issues, exploring different ways garments have been constructed throughout time, including skirts that tie at the front and the back apron style, and especially corsetry/stays and other bits that can be expanded and tightened in ways zippers don't allow for - i've also been having fun experimenting with these styles and velcro, just making the styles I love more accessible to me and my needs in different ways!
I saw the video and I was like "Oh, look. This is about me" lol. I am OBSESSED with Stays. I 100% know is bc I'm obsessed with period dramas/period fashion but I am so happy that they are trending because that also made them so accessible and I was finally able to buy some that didn't cost a fortune (locally made, no fast fashion) and I LOVE them. They are so comfortable, so beautiful.
Bernadette you are TOO, TOO fabulous. Your cameo in the incogni advert was wonderful.