Thank you Mr. Pete! I chuckled at your comment that "Nobody will ever make one of these." (paraphrased). I'm here because I AM going to make one for my little Atlas 3950 6" lathe, 1"-10 thread. So far the order of operations is just as I thought they would be.
Hi, I just wanted to acknowledge the comments listed below by various viewers about you and your videos as they are all spot on the mark, you are a fine machinist and a great teacher. I have retired and have bought myself some gear for my shed and really enjoy learning machining and doing a good job. I guess their are many of us out here in the same boat and I feel so privileged to watch and learn via your videos as they are so wide ranging, packed full of great content, well edited and narrated. Cheers from AUS
I love all the information. Can't be too much info for me. Subtle things like increasing the spindle speed as you advance is very valuable to me. Thank You for this video.
Mr. Pete, thank you for sharing this video as well as your many other videos. Being that I'm a novice, every video that you have produced I have learn a wealth of information from them. Thanks to you I have gained the knowledge of how to purchase a used lathe and milling machine plus taken up the hobby of running these machines in my retirement age. Thanks again for sharing all of your expertise with us novice. And one more thing there is never to much information to listen to when you're a novice such as myself.
My first real project. Acquired material yesterday. Working on the design for my lathe. Hope to start cutting metal this weekend. After wanting a lathe for over 40 years I finally have one.
Great video. Looking forward to part 2. Don't kid yourself, I am sure many lathe owners will be doing this little project for their lathe as I did out of bronze for my Atlas/Craftsman some time ago. I like when you show making parts and accessories for the lathes, they make great learning aids and usable projects for the home machinist. I wonder how many people noticed the lead screw turning with your lathe shut off and wondering why if they didn't already see your install of your variable speed lead screw attachment? Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
I just got a milling attachment for my lil crapsman 101 6 inch swing today. Im gonna need to do this project. Thank you for taking time to share all your knowledge. It's a huge help for us novices
Thank you so much for doing this, I watch every night as I go to sleep, I wish they had Machine Shop in Boston schools , but they were so horrible in the 70's along with forced Busing , Specialties like this , Woodworking and Electrical were abandoned. the School dept. never recovered
Sir, never silly, boring (no pun intended), always educational, interesting and on occasions, great humour. Thank your for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe
I must have watched most of your videos and it's the first time I have seen more of you than your hands. I enjoy them all so much and thank you for passing on your wealth of knowledge .
Thank you sir have been looking forward to this video i have a wonderful Atlas 10F and will soon make thread protector just waiting for part 2 again thank you Mr Pete
Just finished making this thread protector for my Atlas lathe. Thank you Mr. Pete, your 2 videos were excellent and a great help! Please consider making another video along these same lines- an ER32 collet chuck to fit the 1 1/2 x 8 spindle of an Atlas lathe.
Good information. I did notice you touch it and thought i'd have to do the same if I was using that tool. Taking the chuck off and test fitting thread is genius. Made me laugh.
Great video Mr. Pete as always. Appreciate the time and effort you put into all your videos! Very informative. And yes I agree, never too much information. I'd just like to mention that I made one out my old chuck that was worn completely out. Yes a lot of cutting but I was just getting use to running a lathe at the time and gave some very good lathe time. Easy cutting as my original chuck was cast. Thanks again!
I made one for an Atlas 618 lathe I once had. It was a 1"-10 spindle thread. I too used a slug of 6061 aluminum. I decided against tapering the nose as I felt it would be too thin at the end and not offer as much protection. Coincidentally, I made and threaded the spindle protector on that little Atlas lathe. It was my first ever "inside" thread cut on a lathe.
"order of operations"...to me the most important comment you have made...So many folks want to skip to the fun stuff ( like polishing )...completion comes from going by the numbers even when it's not fun....
Mr, Pete, another thoughtful information packed video. I don't have a threaded spindle on my Emco Compact 5, but your tips and techniques are very useful to me in in the machine work I do.
I made one of these out of 12L14 for my 6" Atlas/Clausing lathe 1"x10tpi. I had ordered a threading bar but the inserts didn't show up in time so I ended up making myself an internal threading/boring bar as well out of some 3/4" cold rolled that I turned down to 5/8" with a 1/2" shank that I had scrapped out of some roof top units I had to change out (gotta love free metal). Getting that 1/4 bit shaped right for threading was a lot of fun but I got it and it threaded just fine for my very first time of doing internal threads. I ended up putting a knurl on mine with a blank space between the knurls so I can put a spanner wrench on it to remove it if needed.
As a side note, if someone has an Craftsman Atlas or Atlas/Clausing 6" lathe and their Gibs are trashed like mine where when I bought it YOU CAN STILL get the Gibs from Clausing. I ended up ordering a used one (metal) from Fleebay but found out that Clausing still has them made out of Delrin for $4.34 for the cross slide. Clausing informed me that they still carry a lot of parts for these lathes, there are some differences between the Craftsman and Clausing versions of this lathe but they also used some of the same parts as well.
Thanks Mr Pete , another very interesting and informative video,have been watching your videos for many years from down under. Keep up the good work Russell Boyle. Australia 😀
Before I made the new spindle adapter for my Bison 3-jaw, I made a 'test' piece, which was a duplicate of the spindle on one end. On the other end I did the same, except I sized what would have been threaded area to the minor diameter of the spindle thread, for gauging the area that would be threaded in the spindle adapter. Those with smaller lathes/chucks may not see the need for such a thing, but if you have a large lathe with 100 # +/- chucks, dismounting and turning to do a test fit to the spindle is an activity you want to minimize, especially when bad backs and hernia's are part of your life...
I really like this idea! I use my face plate to protect the threads if I'm using my collets, but it limits my upper speed. I will take measurements and have a go at making one for my machine soon. Thanks for sharing!
I finally mustered up the courage to do the threading... 8tpi on a metric lathe, with the threading cutter facing 'the far side' and the spindle running in reverse (so the cutter moves towards the tailstock). It went smoothly and I don't know what I was worried about! Thanks for your help and inspiration MrPete.
I actual will be making myself one of these as soon. I recently received an Atlas for free and am in the process of cleaning it. It came with a draw bar and 2 3At collets but no adapter or thread protector.
Hi, since unified threads share their form with metric threads, you can calculate the nominal tap drill size by subtracting the pitch from the major diameter. For most inch threads the fractions make it easier to get the chart out, but for an 8tpi thread it is just 1/8 smaller than the MD. So the maths say the final bored size before threading should be 1.375, so pretty close to your measurements.
finally getting this done after getting the back gears sorted. The Mandrell gear was on backwards. I thought the guy (my great uncle Alfred) had drilled and tapped the key way. I turned it round and it worked (same gear on both sides) He had got confused.
Success! Built It out of brass for my fathers little Zyto Lathe. Cutting the internal threads for the first time was err fun. Thanks for showing me how :)
Thanks for the video I'm going to make one for my Atlas lathe and probably an R8 collet adapter as well however I think you should have done your initial boring before you get your cut off for two reasons. First of all you wouldn't have to worry about depth of cut with your cut off tool. Second, you could have caught the part any number of ways without worrying about fly off and with the bore itself. I
I got my spring tool holder after having trouble parting with an non spring type, then I discovered that if you make a dedicated spacer to use under the holder rather than the rocker it works even better. With dedicated spacers I can get results parting just about as good with a non spring tool as I can with the spring type although I still prefer the spring type. With the increased rigidity I can actually part using power crossfeed. That squealing at the beginning of your parting cut sounds like the nose of the tool may have been rubbing on the large diameter when you initially started cutting. Perhaps more front clearance for larger diameters may have prevented that squealing.
Mr. Pete, thank you for videos. I just wanted say, I have a different type of nose on my SOUTH Bend 10 heavy, is a taper with a spline on the taper. Just and FYI .
Hey bud! DoRite Fabrication just mentioned you and asked us to greet and subscribe to you (shout out) and we're here to welcome and subscribed and liked your video & channel. He is an awesome UA-camr and we're glad to know that you have contributed enough to be mentioned on his channel. Congratulations to you and hope to see you again soon my friend! :D
Awesome to hear! We just subscribed to you as well. btw, what an awesome, clever invention to protect the thread.... as well as remove the spindle adapter! Very smart my friend! Well, an awesome weekend to you and your family :) =)
That is literally one of the first things I made when I learned to cut threads on my lathe. When I got the email about the video... I did a double-take... it was like... "Was someone in my tool drawer???"
The biggest thing our generation has going is the incessant value we put on what others think about us. I'll make a deal with you, you be you and I'll be me and strive not to listen to the people who obsess? with picking others apart. You've got enough time spent with Lyle so, have at it, be what Lyle wants to be. You fit the bill.
Always some little tricks to use that you show us. I have a classing 5900 I wonder if I could make such a thread protector for it. Not exactly the same process I believe. Could be an interesting project for you on how to do it because it can be useful to make a backplate for the classing when we buy a chuck. Thanks a lot again and stay away from the rocking chair 👍
I WAS GOING TO SAY " GREAT VIDEO" & A THUMBS UP (( BUT )) I DECIDED TO JUST GIVE YOU AN (( A )) , YOU'VE PROBABLY GIVEN ALOT BUT NOW YOU'VE GOT ONE :-)
As always, I wish I had taken machine shop in high school (late 60's) with you as teacher (you'd be a young teacher then!). Can you tell me about that interesting double ended tool holder (about 9:30 it shows up), it is not obvious just how the tool is held in the holder??? I haven't seen too many double ended insert holders. Thank you for all the great instruction, I watch mostly, not for the projects, but for the techniques.
They don't make it for the OXA tool post, I wish they did since thats what I use on my Atlas 6" lathe. You can find Shars on Fleebay under the user name discount_machine. Part number for neutral rake: 202-9434 for AXA tool post 202-9435 for BXA tool post 202-9436 for CXA tool post 202-9437 for CA tool post You can get them as well with a negative rake if you look further down on their site or Fleebay to get the part numbers for those holders.
At some point in the video you stated that the Craftsman/Atlas lathe runs quieter than the Claussing. As I recall, the gears in the former are die cast and not made of steel. If this is the case, do you think that is the reason?
ARRRUUUGGGHHH!!!! THAT's what you look like! :) So, I've got a Clausing 200, stepped pulley (not pushy) powertrain; when can one dis+/-engage the spindle or feedscrew/gearbox from a standstill when the motor assbly. is already running? I never do it what for meshing the gears and all, but I notice that you often have the motor running and "turn on/off" the spindle separately, do you have a clutch mechanism on your lathe(s)? Is engaging a gear to another running gear perhaps "ok" with slow RPMs?
Mr Pete ,many thanks for your video . my smart & brown sabel has a 1.75x8 tpi BSW spindle thread . all the threading charts on the internet only give information for 5 tpi can you please tell me if the major and minor diameters of the thread are the same at 1 3/4" regardless of pitch. many thanks again from over the pond
mrpete222 thank you for replying, machinerys handbook may have the information if it covers BSW . I will try to get a good used. copy, not so easy to find over here in the UK but will keep checking the internet
+Wayne Sharp .A 1.75" diam thread is going to be about 1.5" core size , the way I have been using for over 50 yrs now which works for any thread metric/ imperial pipe etc no matter what the size . is to take a drill and find one that just slides inside the nut or in your case the thread in your back plate you can also measure with a vernier as a double check of inside thread on the back plate then just add a few thou for your bore size . Measure twice, check again then cut .
Question for anyone. You can use a carriage stop when power feeding? I have a SB 9B and I know there is a clutch, is that why a carriage stop can be used? Thanks.
Thanks for the great videos Mr. Pete ever since I got my Logan lathe I've been watching your videos. I'll bet there are many very successful machinest's out there that you have tought a thing or two over the years. With your information I was able to make a few change gears for the lathe but boy is it slow goin process and sore hands from working the hand wheel back and forth. I have one question not related to the article, I do a lot of parts joined by welding why is it that no matter what you can't get a decent surface finish around the weld area without sanding? Thanks in advance.
Why/How is the lead screw turning on your Atlas lathe when the chuck is not spinning?? Are you powering the lead screw with an external motor? Thanks, Chris
He does have it powered by an external motor. He can run the lead screw slower that way and get a better finish then the factory gear box allows. He covers this in a previous video.
I know you don't like questions about order of ops, but for myself, at least, as a hobbyist, I assume you thought about all the options and had good reason for choosing what you did. So, I would have done most of the work before parting it off, working from the rear of the part: facing, boring, threading, cutting the clearance, and cutting the nose taper. After cutting the nose taper you'd only have to cut through about 1/4" to part it off. Is there a problem with that approach that I am missing?
You NEVER give to "much information" You are a TEACHER, Students who ~want~ to Learn LISTEN to All a Teacher says, And then even ask QUESTIONS When Needed !!!!!
Clown Whisper If you can find one. They aren't exactly something you can run to the hardware store and pick up, and are not available at all for quite a few of these old lathes.
This is true for some old lathes, but for the 9, 10 11, inch lathes you can typically find a good used one on ebay for a couple hundred bucks. The best place to look is Craigslist! I found an 1821 Logan for 200 bucks already tore down in boxes. I snatched it up for Spare parts for my 820. I ended up stripping, painting and assembling it and it's beautiful! Granted that was an unusual good find. I'm now in the market for a Southbend 10 k so I'm parting it out and making a ton of money on it this way I've already made over 1000 on it and hardly got started. But I digress, My point is that there is hardly a time that I open ebay or Craigslist and don't find a spindle or entire headstock for sale. I would never get rid of an entire lathe just because of a damaged spindle. And I'm sure that's not what Mrpete222 meant, he was conversationally exaggerating to get a point across.
For me there is no such thing as too much information, as long as it's informative and relevant, and your content always is.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you Mr. Pete!
I chuckled at your comment that "Nobody will ever make one of these." (paraphrased). I'm here because I AM going to make one for my little Atlas 3950 6" lathe, 1"-10 thread.
So far the order of operations is just as I thought they would be.
👍👍
Mr. Pete, everything you said about not removing a part from a chuck during an operation made perfect sense. Nothing silly about it.
Hi, I just wanted to acknowledge the comments listed below by various viewers about you and your videos as they are all spot on the mark, you are a fine machinist and a great teacher. I have retired and have bought myself some gear for my shed and really enjoy learning machining and doing a good job. I guess their are many of us out here in the same boat and I feel so privileged to watch and learn via your videos as they are so wide ranging, packed full of great content, well edited and narrated. Cheers from AUS
Thank you very much
I love all the information. Can't be too much info for me. Subtle things like increasing the spindle speed as you advance is very valuable to me. Thank You for this video.
Mr. Pete, thank you for sharing this video as well as your many other videos. Being that I'm a novice, every video that you have produced I have learn a wealth of information from them. Thanks to you I have gained the knowledge of how to purchase a used lathe and milling machine plus taken up the hobby of running these machines in my retirement age. Thanks again for sharing all of your expertise with us novice. And one more thing there is never to much information to listen to when you're a novice such as myself.
Thank you very much
My first real project. Acquired material yesterday. Working on the design for my lathe. Hope to start cutting metal this weekend. After wanting a lathe for over 40 years I finally have one.
👍👍
I always find the parts you call "to much information" the most useful. I'll be waiting for part2. Thanks!
Your channel just keeps getting better and better, Mr. Pete...I never miss a video. Thanks.
Great video. Looking forward to part 2. Don't kid yourself, I am sure many lathe owners will be doing this little project for their lathe as I did out of bronze for my Atlas/Craftsman some time ago. I like when you show making parts and accessories for the lathes, they make great learning aids and usable projects for the home machinist. I wonder how many people noticed the lead screw turning with your lathe shut off and wondering why if they didn't already see your install of your variable speed lead screw attachment? Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Yes-I thought the same when I edited the vid
Thanks for taking the time to document the build mr Pete. I'm glad to see your face much more often these days in your videos.
I just got a milling attachment for my lil crapsman 101 6 inch swing today. Im gonna need to do this project. Thank you for taking time to share all your knowledge. It's a huge help for us novices
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it. Have fun with the little machine
Thank you so much for doing this, I watch every night as I go to sleep, I wish they had Machine Shop in Boston schools , but they were so horrible in the 70's along with forced Busing , Specialties like this , Woodworking and Electrical were abandoned. the School dept. never recovered
Thanks for watching. They have done some horrible things in the schools recently.
Sir, never silly, boring (no pun intended), always educational, interesting and on occasions, great humour. Thank your for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe
I must have watched most of your videos and it's the first time I have seen more of you than your hands. I enjoy them all so much and thank you for passing on your wealth of knowledge .
Thanks for watching!
I for one can't get enough "information." Thanks for sharing. I learn so much from your videos!!
That pleases me greatly, thank you
Thank you sir have been looking forward to this video i have a wonderful Atlas 10F and will soon make thread protector just waiting for part 2 again thank you Mr Pete
Just finished making this thread protector for my Atlas lathe. Thank you Mr. Pete, your 2 videos were excellent and a great help! Please consider making another video along these same lines- an ER32 collet chuck to fit the 1 1/2 x 8 spindle of an Atlas lathe.
Good idea
Good information. I did notice you touch it and thought i'd have to do the same if I was using that tool. Taking the chuck off and test fitting thread is genius. Made me laugh.
Good morning Mr Pete. Great project. Just made one for my old Atlas 10" to practice boring and internal threading. Enjoy your videos.
Great video Mr. Pete as always. Appreciate the time and effort you put into all your videos! Very informative. And yes I agree, never too much information.
I'd just like to mention that I made one out my old chuck that was worn completely out. Yes a lot of cutting but I was just getting use to running a lathe at the time and gave some very good lathe time. Easy cutting as my original chuck was cast.
Thanks again!
It’s always a pleasure to watch your fine videos and craftsmanship. Thank you sir.
I made one for an Atlas 618 lathe I once had. It was a 1"-10 spindle thread. I too used a slug of 6061 aluminum. I decided against tapering the nose as I felt it would be too thin at the end and not offer as much protection. Coincidentally, I made and threaded the spindle protector on that little Atlas lathe. It was my first ever "inside" thread cut on a lathe.
Another very interesting video. I never feel that your giving way to much info. I enjoy them all. Thanks for sharing.
"order of operations"...to me the most important comment you have made...So many folks want to skip to the fun stuff ( like polishing )...completion comes from going by the numbers even when it's not fun....
Mr, Pete, another thoughtful information packed video. I don't have a threaded spindle on my Emco Compact 5, but your tips and techniques are very useful to me in in the machine work I do.
IT'S ALWAYS A PLEASURE WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS. THANKS MR. PETE
always a thumbs up from me.. Thanks for sharing sir...
Thanks for watching.
I made one of these out of 12L14 for my 6" Atlas/Clausing lathe 1"x10tpi. I had ordered a threading bar but the inserts didn't show up in time so I ended up making myself an internal threading/boring bar as well out of some 3/4" cold rolled that I turned down to 5/8" with a 1/2" shank that I had scrapped out of some roof top units I had to change out (gotta love free metal). Getting that 1/4 bit shaped right for threading was a lot of fun but I got it and it threaded just fine for my very first time of doing internal threads. I ended up putting a knurl on mine with a blank space between the knurls so I can put a spanner wrench on it to remove it if needed.
As a side note, if someone has an Craftsman Atlas or Atlas/Clausing 6" lathe and their Gibs are trashed like mine where when I bought it YOU CAN STILL get the Gibs from Clausing. I ended up ordering a used one (metal) from Fleebay but found out that Clausing still has them made out of Delrin for $4.34 for the cross slide. Clausing informed me that they still carry a lot of parts for these lathes, there are some differences between the Craftsman and Clausing versions of this lathe but they also used some of the same parts as well.
I love these videos where you make things, I guess I love them all though. So much better than anything on TV
Thanks Mr Pete , another very interesting and informative video,have been watching your videos for many years from down under.
Keep up the good work
Russell Boyle. Australia 😀
Thanks for watching
I just love the precision of "thereabouts"
Thanks for watching.
Mr Pete, Sir I ALWAYS wear my safety glasses for your videos . I'm looking foreword to your 2nd half of this one!
Yes--keep them on-Thanks for watching.
i truly love your videos. they are both entertaining and immensely educational.
Before I made the new spindle adapter for my Bison 3-jaw, I made a 'test' piece, which was a duplicate of the spindle on one end. On the other end I did the same, except I sized what would have been threaded area to the minor diameter of the spindle thread, for gauging the area that would be threaded in the spindle adapter.
Those with smaller lathes/chucks may not see the need for such a thing, but if you have a large lathe with 100 # +/- chucks, dismounting and turning to do a test fit to the spindle is an activity you want to minimize, especially when bad backs and hernia's are part of your life...
Once again thanks Mr Pete. As usual, it's a pleasure...!!
I really like this idea! I use my face plate to protect the threads if I'm using my collets, but it limits my upper speed. I will take measurements and have a go at making one for my machine soon. Thanks for sharing!
I finally mustered up the courage to do the threading... 8tpi on a metric lathe, with the threading cutter facing 'the far side' and the spindle running in reverse (so the cutter moves towards the tailstock).
It went smoothly and I don't know what I was worried about!
Thanks for your help and inspiration MrPete.
I take it, that it worked out fine--nice job.
Thank you so much for the video! I was able to explain "concentricity" to my bride when she heard you mention it.
Thanks for watching
from you there is no such thing as TMI (too much information)! god made you as you are -- no need to apologize for his work, we love it!!
Excelente. Maestro. Felicidades desde. Mexico
I actual will be making myself one of these as soon. I recently received an Atlas for free and am in the process of cleaning it. It came with a draw bar and 2 3At collets but no adapter or thread protector.
Hi, since unified threads share their form with metric threads, you can calculate the nominal tap drill size by subtracting the pitch from the major diameter. For most inch threads the fractions make it easier to get the chart out, but for an 8tpi thread it is just 1/8 smaller than the MD. So the maths say the final bored size before threading should be 1.375, so pretty close to your measurements.
It's always a pleasure to watch your videos
I need to make a thread protector. great video. thanks for sharing.
finally getting this done after getting the back gears sorted. The Mandrell gear was on backwards. I thought the guy (my great uncle Alfred) had drilled and tapped the key way. I turned it round and it worked (same gear on both sides) He had got confused.
Success! Built It out of brass for my fathers little Zyto Lathe. Cutting the internal threads for the first time was err fun. Thanks for showing me how :)
Love it. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the video I'm going to make one for my Atlas lathe and probably an R8 collet adapter as well however I think you should have done your initial boring before you get your cut off for two reasons. First of all you wouldn't have to worry about depth of cut with your cut off tool. Second, you could have caught the part any number of ways without worrying about fly off and with the bore itself. I
thank you for your great videos I watch them all the time
I got my spring tool holder after having trouble parting with an non spring type, then I discovered that if you make a dedicated spacer to use under the holder rather than the rocker it works even better. With dedicated spacers I can get results parting just about as good with a non spring tool as I can with the spring type although I still prefer the spring type. With the increased rigidity I can actually part using power crossfeed. That squealing at the beginning of your parting cut sounds like the nose of the tool may have been rubbing on the large diameter when you initially started cutting. Perhaps more front clearance for larger diameters may have prevented that squealing.
Thanks--thats good advise. I need to make that spacer ring
Mr. Pete, thank you for videos. I just wanted say, I have a different type of nose on my SOUTH Bend 10 heavy, is a taper with a spline on the taper. Just and FYI .
Hey bud! DoRite Fabrication just mentioned you and asked us to greet and subscribe to you (shout out) and we're here to welcome and subscribed and liked your video & channel. He is an awesome UA-camr and we're glad to know that you have contributed enough to be mentioned on his channel. Congratulations to you and hope to see you again soon my friend! :D
Thanks for watching. I just subbed to dorite & will check out his channel
Awesome to hear! We just subscribed to you as well. btw, what an awesome, clever invention to protect the thread.... as well as remove the spindle adapter! Very smart my friend! Well, an awesome weekend to you and your family :) =)
Watching and Learning. Thank Mr Pete !
thank you for sharing this video. I need to make one of these for my Atlas lathe as it did not come with one when I bought it.
I need to make one of these for my 9" Southbend. I'll probably use Delrin to save a little cost. Thanks for anoher great video!
That is literally one of the first things I made when I learned to cut threads on my lathe. When I got the email about the video... I did a double-take... it was like... "Was someone in my tool drawer???"
Great video as usual. My Craftsman could use a thread protector I suppose but that will wait until I have a collet to hold.
Thanks for the demo, I need to make one for my lathe.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing!
Very nice. Keep 'em coming.
The biggest thing our generation has going is the incessant value we put on what others think about us. I'll make a deal with you, you be you and I'll be me and strive not to listen to the people who obsess? with picking others apart. You've got enough time spent with Lyle so, have at it, be what Lyle wants to be. You fit the bill.
That sounds like mighty good New Year’s advice. But we often cannot follow our own advice
Awesome as always.
Thanks,
John
I am watching this to make one for my Atlas. never too much information
can't wait to see part 2. 😊
Thanks good info. Now all I needed is a good old lathe!
Thanks for watching.
Always some little tricks to use that you show us. I have a classing 5900 I wonder if I could make such a thread protector for it. Not exactly the same process I believe. Could be an interesting project for you on how to do it because it can be useful to make a backplate for the classing when we buy a chuck. Thanks a lot again and stay away from the rocking chair 👍
I have thoght of that myself--but it would not be easy. In fact, I have been watching for a cheap faceplate I could cut down
mrpete222 min p.
I believe thisoldtony has a video of making a back plate, but don't know what brand lathe it is for.
¨Or maybe it´s silly to me¨ HaHaHa
THANK YOU...for sharing.
super video, looking forward to the finally
Thanks for watching.
Will definitely make one, thanks from Sweden. Any tips on how to hold a chuck on the thred so I can do operations in revers?
good video
Great project idea.
Count me too on making one of those for my mighty Atlas 12 .
🤙🤙
I WAS GOING TO SAY " GREAT VIDEO" & A THUMBS UP (( BUT )) I DECIDED
TO JUST GIVE YOU AN (( A )) , YOU'VE PROBABLY GIVEN ALOT BUT
NOW YOU'VE GOT ONE :-)
Thanks for watching.
As always, I wish I had taken machine shop in high school (late 60's) with you as teacher (you'd be a young teacher then!). Can you tell me about that interesting double ended tool holder (about 9:30 it shows up), it is not obvious just how the tool is held in the holder??? I haven't seen too many double ended insert holders. Thank you for all the great instruction, I watch mostly, not for the projects, but for the techniques.
You can get them from Shar’s. Look in their catalog
They don't make it for the OXA tool post, I wish they did since thats what I use on my Atlas 6" lathe. You can find Shars on Fleebay under the user name discount_machine.
Part number for neutral rake:
202-9434 for AXA tool post
202-9435 for BXA tool post
202-9436 for CXA tool post
202-9437 for CA tool post
You can get them as well with a negative rake if you look further down on their site or Fleebay to get the part numbers for those holders.
I have that same exact Armstrong parting tool but it dose not fit in my 1936 SB 11 tool holder
Just keep making your videos the way you want to. If some people don't like the way you make your videos then they can find someone else to watch.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Thanks again!
thanks pete
Great work
At some point in the video you stated that the Craftsman/Atlas lathe runs quieter than the Claussing. As I recall, the gears in the former are die cast and not made of steel. If this is the case, do you think that is the reason?
ARRRUUUGGGHHH!!!! THAT's what you look like! :) So, I've got a Clausing 200, stepped pulley (not pushy) powertrain; when can one dis+/-engage the spindle or feedscrew/gearbox from a standstill when the motor assbly. is already running? I never do it what for meshing the gears and all, but I notice that you often have the motor running and "turn on/off" the spindle separately, do you have a clutch mechanism on your lathe(s)? Is engaging a gear to another running gear perhaps "ok" with slow RPMs?
Yes--mine has a clutch
can you please make a clutch and assembly for qcgb or maybe give dimensions if you get a chance
Mr Pete ,many thanks for your video . my smart & brown sabel has a 1.75x8 tpi BSW spindle thread . all the threading charts on the internet only give information for 5 tpi can you please tell me if the major and minor diameters of the thread are the same at 1 3/4" regardless of pitch. many thanks again from over the pond
wow--you will have to research in the thread books
mrpete222 thank you for replying, machinerys handbook may have the information if it covers BSW . I will try to get a good used. copy, not so easy to find over here in the UK but will keep checking the internet
+Wayne Sharp .A 1.75" diam thread is going to be about 1.5" core size , the way I have been using for over 50 yrs now which works for any thread metric/ imperial pipe etc no matter what the size . is to take a drill and find one that just slides inside the nut or in your case the thread in your back plate you can also measure with a vernier as a double check of inside thread on the back plate then just add a few thou for your bore size . Measure twice, check again then cut .
Chris C. Thank you Chris for your advice, I will get some trial and error practice in now
Question for anyone. You can use a carriage stop when power feeding? I have a SB 9B and I know there is a clutch, is that why a carriage stop can be used? Thanks.
No, don't.
Thanks for the great videos Mr. Pete ever since I got my Logan lathe I've been watching your videos. I'll bet there are many very successful machinest's out there that you have tought a thing or two over the years. With your information I was able to make a few change gears for the lathe but boy is it slow goin process and sore hands from working the hand wheel back and forth. I have one question not related to the article, I do a lot of parts joined by welding why is it that no matter what you can't get a decent surface finish around the weld area without sanding? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for watching--too many hard spots in those welds
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I need one for my machine, plus the closer and draw bar.
Thanks for watching
Why/How is the lead screw turning on your Atlas lathe when the chuck is not spinning?? Are you powering the lead screw with an external motor? Thanks, Chris
ahhhh!! i always wondered that too!
He does have it powered by an external motor. He can run the lead screw slower that way and get a better finish then the factory gear box allows.
He covers this in a previous video.
ShysterLawyer Thanks for the reply. I figured it had to be powered by something. Now I'm going to look for that video. Thanks, Chris
You always get one Joel Hudson
Thanks
You are welcome, Please keep the videos coming Top Marks...........
What is the name of that book? Is it only about threads?
It's the Machinery's Handbook.
No S-33R for the cut off tool
one I have not seen, would not have to used the 3D printer to make one..... LOL
You don't throw the lathe away, you just get another spindle.
Where?
I know you don't like questions about order of ops, but for myself, at least, as a hobbyist, I assume you thought about all the options and had good reason for choosing what you did.
So, I would have done most of the work before parting it off, working from the rear of the part: facing, boring, threading, cutting the clearance, and cutting the nose taper. After cutting the nose taper you'd only have to cut through about 1/4" to part it off. Is there a problem with that approach that I am missing?
No problem at all, there are just many different ways of approaching a job
You NEVER give to "much information" You are a TEACHER, Students who ~want~ to Learn LISTEN to All a Teacher says, And then even ask QUESTIONS When Needed
!!!!!
What was that book you referenced?
It's the Machinery's Handbook.
Ok, I didn't recognize it. My copy is the 19th and his was the 22nd.
thank you
If you damage the spindle you have to throw the lathe away? Lol must have meant spindle away
Clown Whisper If you can find one. They aren't exactly something you can run to the hardware store and pick up, and are not available at all for quite a few of these old lathes.
This is true for some old lathes, but for the 9, 10 11, inch lathes you can typically find a good used one on ebay for a couple hundred bucks. The best place to look is Craigslist! I found an 1821 Logan for 200 bucks already tore down in boxes. I snatched it up for Spare parts for my 820. I ended up stripping, painting and assembling it and it's beautiful!
Granted that was an unusual good find. I'm now in the market for a Southbend 10 k so I'm parting it out and making a ton of money on it this way I've already made over 1000 on it and hardly got started.
But I digress,
My point is that there is hardly a time that I open ebay or Craigslist and don't find a spindle or entire headstock for sale.
I would never get rid of an entire lathe just because of a damaged spindle. And I'm sure that's not what Mrpete222 meant, he was conversationally exaggerating to get a point across.
Sounds like a good project would be turning (and heat-treating) a spare spindle.
No-I meant the lathe!
hi have you cut npt threads on a lathe? thanks
no, because they are tapered
mrpete222 ok and I'm having trouble with a pipe walking out of the jaws what do you think my problem could be
Do you mean slipping? Is it galvanized??
Just regular steel pipe 3.5" od x 22" press it up against the chuck face tighten chuck and once I get it spinning its like a 1/4 off the chuck face
Chuck jaws are slightly sprung or you need a larger chuck on a larger lathe-thats happened to me too. Use a 4 jaw chuck
what is that checuk size and model please. i want one
www.gts-tools.com/catalog/products.php?id=1-105-1000&cid=gmlc-scsc-pfs-2pc-3jaw-plain-back
www.gts-tools.com/catalog/products.php?id=1-105-1200&cid=gmlc-scsc-pfs-2pc-3jaw-plain-back
ok i found it
www.fastenal.com/products/details/3233516