You have made a 3s7p battery. This supplies 3.6v (nominal) x 3 = 10.8v, with only 2000mAH (nominal) x 7 = 14,000mAH worth of current. You would need to have all the batteries in parallel (1s21p) to get near the 50,000mAH you stated (although it would only be 46,200mAH). If you look up 3s7p li-ion packs online you'll find them listed as 12v 14/18/20AH depending on the individual cell mAH capacity.
If he make it in parallel he need to add more charging module besause one module only charge on 1 ampere , then he need more module and more charger to charge the battery pack
*has a seizure at the immense disgust of this video* A couple things to say: For starters, this is NOT a 50000mAh battery. You rounded from the actual value of 21 x 2200 which gives 46200mAh on USED cells is completely wrong to round up this much. Even if they were brand new cells, I’d still be looking at this abomination of a calculation in disgrace. Now with only 6 of the cells being ICRI 8650-22FUs, which have a capacity of 2200mAh, over time of constant usage, they are definitely not going to be 2200mAh. You would be looking at 1500mAh at a push, considering that laptop batteries would have had a constant load on the cells and would have easily cycled the batteries from discharge to charge around 500 times. This is backed up by datasheet of these batteries at Spec No. 7.8 - Cycle Life, where it states that after 299 cycles of the battery, the capacity is estimated to be less than or equal to 1505mAh. So, given this, we are already talking about 31605mAh battery at a maximum which is probably the 98th percentile of the capacity of the cell. So, I feel like I’m right in saying that the total capacity of the array is about 30000mAh, not 50000, but this is going by your ludicrous and idiotic logic of calculating the capacity of an array of cells. which isn’t correct at all and is in fact less than 10000mAh. Next let’s talk about battery wiring configurations. There are two ways to wire a battery. Series and Parallel. With series, you are increasing the output voltage and keeping the capacity value at a nominal value. Series is wired from Positive to Negative (+ to -). With parallel, you are increasing the total cell array capacity, and keeping the voltage nominal. Parallel is wired from Positives to Positives and Negatives to Negatives. (+ to + and - to -). 18650 cells are made in a way where the top is identified by a ridge in the side of the cell around the lip of the top of the cell and a coloured paper ring (easily differentiated to the shrink wrap of the cell). if you take 7 AAA batteries and put the positives in line and the negatives in line, you end up with a battery which has a large capacity but no increase in voltage. This is kind of what a D cell battery or C cell battery is. A larger capacity cell, not an increased voltage... In the instance of the 18650s, you are looking at the 7 cells having a total capacitance much less than 10000mAh. Imagine taking 3 D cells rated at 1.5 volts each and putting the positive end to the negative end 3 times. You are not going to get an increase in capacity whatsoever, but rather a voltage of 4.5V. Now, take the battery made in this video, and you are not getting anywhere neat to the proposed capacity the title suggests. You are talking about 5 times less than what the title says. I don’t know how you have a square root symbol in your channel banner but can’t even calculate how batteries add up… Next, lets talk about your soldering. My seizure was mainly at this. I understand that you target your videos at a demographic who enjoy seeing ‘life hacks’ and cheaply making a product which would normally be expensive. However, this doesn’t excuse the fact that you can’t use tabbing wire. The copper wire you use is probably from a pair of headphones. Its so thin that it would struggle to handle the current of the wire and it would heat up. When you opened those laptop batteries, did you see any of that disgusting wire you used in there? No. They used tabbing wire which is a much safer and neater alternative. Not only that, but it reduces the chances of that battery pack becoming a bomb. I would expect a you tuber with a large following such as you to at least be able to learn how to solder properly. You should be presenting your videos so that people who a video titled with ‘How to make…’ don’t end up replicating your disgusting soldering. At least learn standard safety procedures. People who fall for your clickbait titles which make me revolt will clearly not know to safely perform the activities you show in your video. You really should change how you present yourself on UA-cam to your audience or one day someone is going to get seriously injured trying to replicate what your doing here.
Shane Potticary it doesn’t make this video any less disgusting, but I think what he’s trying to do is cell-level fuses, like in Tesla modules. However, this is really, REALLY not how cell-level fuses work. If he wanted to do it properly, he would’ve only used the thin wire for around a centimetre to connect each cell to a more appropriately sized wire. Ugh.
Nice idea, but some very serious design flaws: 1) You just measured the voltage of the batteries and went from there. This is not a good idea when dealing with used lithium cells from laptop battery packs (or similar). The batteries must be capacity tested using a balance charger (like an Imax B6 or Turnigy Accucel). 2) When connecting batteries in series, they need to all be at the same voltage level, otherwise they will charge/discharge into each other. Make sure that all cells are at the same voltage before connecting in series, and try to put batteries of similar capacity together so that one weak cell doesn't down the entire pack. 3) This battery pack is not a 50,000mAh battery pack. You have to take the voltage of the entire pack and use the capacity of the cells that are in parallel with each other. For example, this is a 3S7P pack, meaning 3 cells in series and 7 in parallel. At 2.2Ah per cell, this is 15.4Ah or 15,400mAh at 11.1V. 4) The output of the pack is at 5V so to get the capacity at the output, you have to firstly calculate the Wh of the pack (15.4 * 11.1 = 170.94Wh) and then divide by the output voltage. So at 5V, it is just over 34Ah, minus any losses in the converters/regulators etc. 5) The soldering is very weak, and you'll likely get dry joints. You need to make sure that you use solder with flux/rosin built into it. Otherwise, you need to add additional flux/rosin when soldering. Overall, good concept, but there are plenty of improvements that need to be made.
Spotify95 You seem to know a lot about these diy power banks. I was about to duplicate his pack, only with new batteries. It would seem to eliminate some of the problems you listed. However, being a novice with battery packs, I wonder if you would suggest the right BPM for this set up. Also any place to get info on a project like this.. Thanks
Itu bikin apaan Pak Broo, coba saya pesan bisa ngak? saya mo pesen yg 120000mAh ntar kalo bisa gue ongkosin..alamat sampean dimana Pak Broo,negara apa...🙏
You should always have batteries that are the same capacity and preferably the same type with each other. To have the same voltage on all of them you have to charge them all to 4.2V and then only you should wire them together
Batteries are usually spot welded. But you can get away with soldering but... Soldering iron must be real hot and you must use flux so you can use as little amount of time as possible to avoid damaging the cell. Also your wires are just too thin. They increase internal resistance of the battery. Also if each cell has 2 000mAh at 3.7V then your whole battery has 7 batteries in paralel x 2 000mAh per battery at 3.7V that is 14 000 mAh at 11.1V because you have 3 banks in series wich increases your voltage but not your capacity. Wich is another think to consider. Why use so high voltage and then step it down quite a bit? There are regulators which can operate at nominal voltages of the lithium cells and even charge them (no need for BMS board = saved money). Also DC to DC operate at around 80% to 90% efeciancy. Better to loose 20% from 3.7V then 20% from 11.1V. One more thing. I would not trust that BMS board to limit the charging current. Get some proper charger to do that (or use dedicated power bank board that can handle that as well as steping the voltage up / down for that USB, as i wrote earlier)
14 000 mah at 11 volts it's almost same 50 000 mah at 3.7 ,; i do 3x less volts and get 3 x more amp ,, he mean that he have like a 50000 mah 3.7 volts batterie , so maybe around 180 wh
Yeah, he could have saved a whole bunch of money on this project. He also wasted a lot of juice by stepping down 12v! He should have just built a 1s21p (21 cells in parallel). That way, the whole pack would have been 3.7V nominal and 4.2V fully charged. Then buy one or more of them 3.7v - 4.2v to 5v - 2.1A power bank modules! Imagine how many phones you could charge with this setup! if the cells are 2Ah, then you would have 2Ah * 21 cells = 42Ah
you can buy better a battery bank at the store the are you safetyer than making self but as you be stud for a Electrotechnical dan must you normally knowing what are you doing it
1. Soldering to the battery case is not too smart, it's do-able; but if you pulled them from laptops: leave the metal tangs on them as they are a better soldering point. 2. 7 batteries in parallel is only 16.8 Ah or so. 3 of these in series gives a ~11V nominal battery. Series charging of lithiums is a pain... 3. Even if all cells were parallel (which would be ideal for charging etc.) the batteries would give ~50Ah, buut these are pulls from laptops; therefore expect a diminished capacity so ~30Ah is the best achieved. 4. [which really pertains to 2.] Each of those parallel banks has a _different capacity_ therefore when put in series there will be a weak set that will drain long before the others do; these cells need to be tested, measured and matched to achieve a safe and reliable pack. 5. The misinformation caused by stating 50'000mAh in title and thumbnail does in fact give cause to flag this as clickbait... Come on, stating that used batteries give full as-new capacity, AND stating a parallel capacity (rather than the pitiful 10 amp-hours available from this jabbed-together recycled SERIES-PARALLEL pack) AAND the lack of testing of the batteries is really ticking off my inner engineer - especially since 370K people have seen this D: Not only that but stating the capacity as thousands of milli-amp hours is the same as stating a price of "$9.99". Does it hurt to just state the Amp-hours as they are without adding the trailing zeroes? (Stating in milli-amperes per hour is usually only done for a single-cell...) Just think before doing something, this could have been a cool tut, but instead it's clickbaitey and there's no voice from the author, just over the top music that i may or may not like. An explanation really boosts the quality from a viewer's point of view. Oh and work on that soldering! It's pitiful at best!!! A tip for sexy-soldering: visualize the heat, get everything you wish to solder up to the same temperature; test the heat by prodding these areas with the solder; it should flow quickly, not slowly globbing about. But be careful not to overheat what your'e soldering; which in this case is the *bare-ass of a lithium cell!!!* Which brings me back to 1. Soldering to the battery case is not too smart, it's do-able; but if you pulled them from laptops: leave the metal tangs on them... 2. .... 3. ... and so on in an endless loop of doom...
I don't think it's intentional click bait. Just had math. It's a good idea, just gone a little wrong. I'm hoping to do something similar with Samsung batteries. Oh and "sexy soldering" love it!!!!!
@@Willsanky, this is a stupid idea. He also wired the batteries in both series and parallel together incorrectly. NEVER DO THIS! It's a bomb at that point. This model never worked either. He edited the video and cut the power cord out of frame for a reason, this thing does not work. And should never be replicated.
@@jdeluca6181 I did end up making one. Slightly smaller though. I used the proper flat fuse wire. Never had a problem with it. And yes, my soldering is so much better
@@Willsanky, I truly hope you did not wire your batteries like the moron making this video. There's a proper way of connecting lithium cells in parallel and series, and this video is not how to do it right.
So the Chinese call this an infinite, or 100,000,000,000,000 mah power bank.. Good honest video. Thanks for sharing. I have the zinc strips and batteries so far.. thanks again.. 👍🏼👍🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
occasionally clean the tip of the soldering iron, use a sponge not too wet but not too dry, and use the flux because on the circuit, the tin does not apply well.
Why would you use a 3S pack to get 5V output? It would make so much more sense and simplicity to have a 1S pack and use an off the shelf buck-boost converter designed to run a phone charger controller PLUS you wouldn't need a proprietary charging adapter, you could charge it with a USB cable.
I bottom balanced the cells and just used a normal PWM charge controller and disabled the float. No balance charging because lazy but they're all +/- 0.02v of each other still.
X-Creation Soldering quality is disgusting! Wires could be little thicker. The power bank's case should be better, find some fit box. Also you didn't tested real capacity, so we don't know is it 50000mAh or 25000mAh.
You done this really good but there is USB port only one. There is two usb ports in case you can charge both devices well u try . Thanks for the video 👌
Use new LiFePo4 batteries of the same type and put them all in parallel. Then use a 2A boost converter to go from 3.3V to 5V. Balancing circuit not required. Use a small solid wire rated at 5A. If the battery is ever shorted the small wire will burn out acting like a fuse.
Thank you guy, I like this video, you use fewer materials and tools as what I am having right now I bought Li-ion 9800mah for more than 30 pcs I did not made research before buying, It need to refer to capacity of the module BMS at first priority .in the market they have for about 40amp,mine 300amp totally. Total cost it will be higher than just buy ready one to use in the market. I just need to do assembly for changing phone with my solar system without worry everyday about battery will run out. But it Seem like I need to keep it somewhere no using for almost the rest of it.
You should work on your soldering skill a bit. Also the main concern for recycled cells is balancing. With 7 cells of unknown condition connected in parallel, you have no control over their charging.
used cells like this are used in DIY power walls all the time. and he does check them at the beginning. and its more likely that the charging circuit failed.
This is absolutely going to blow up if used for longer periods. Mismatched cells that were SOLDERED, not spot welded, combined with hilariously under-sized between the cells, are a failure waiting to happen. Best case scenario, it just stops working eventually, but the chance that one of these cells eventually bursts is VERY real.
Terrible soldering. You should place a solder tip to pad and wait to good solder melting, or set soldering iron to higher temperature, or change the solder. These connections look like bird pecking
Yes but when you solder batteries (except for Li batteries that canot be soldered) is preferable at a lower temperature and for very short time or they would explode or broke.
funny how some people are very linear thinking but not neglect seeing the obvious practical point. He's rounding for the clickbaity title, it looks better rounding to an even high number to sell to an audience. Of course this involves science and tech so there's bound to be some finicky nerds that LOVE to correct any little detail and That's OK 😀👍 cause I still learned something even though I barely passed high physics physics
21x2200=46.200 correct amper..but can not be use momentary..if you use only cp charge yup correct amper..but u cant use for car start..everythink is nice and good job
That thin copper wire that you used to solder the batteries is gonna act like a fuse depending of the current that consumes the load you attach to the battery
I agree. It is so painful to watch when the solder is not flowing and no flux is being used but to add on, he is using a trash soldering iron with a destroyed tip.
what is the display measuring in? is it measuring in ampere-hours? if so you're charging with 1 amp and you can get 2-3 amp power bricks, much more efficient
its not reccomended, but dont recreate this because this is a bad example, there are premade battery boards for this. You could get away wity using diffrent cells but you gotta atleast make sire they are fully chargzd and are at arrounnd the samz vontagz because if one battery is at 3.7v and the other one is at 3.2v they are going to balabce out and you will have to chzrge again and you will lose the camacity by that. So just make sure to grt the voltages of the diffrent batterys to be almost the same 3.7 or 3,67 isnt too bad
I do some research about it some saying that should use resistor because the limit of TP4056 is 1amp and 5v. 1amp = 1 lithium battery therefore the total is 4amps in 4battery while the voltage will stay the same (3.7v). The question is why do some people(DIY) in UA-cam using only (1 tp4056) and USB when creating a powerbank?
Where do you get 50Ah from?? Laptop cells are around 2200mAh each, and you have seven in parallel. Thus it’s only 7*2200mAh=15400mAh! Not even a third of 50000mAh...
MK it’s the equivalent in terms of watt-hours. I don’t know enough about the module he’s using to convert to 5V to say whether it’s acting as a transformer or a regulator (fuck me I hope it’s transforming...), but the output would be equivalent to a 50,000mAh capacity, minus some for the inefficiency of converting voltage. The bigger problem is that the cells he’s using aren’t new, meaning they’ll have much smaller capacities than he claims.
I'm not sure, but there are three battery characteristics: voltage, current and capacity. A 12v battery with 14ah will power a 4v output as long as a 4v 42ah battery. people are saying that it's only 14-15 ah battery, I think not, it doesn't matter the way he arranged the batteries, I will always be 21 batteries at 2.2ah capacity, so always will be ~50ah capacity battery. He arranged at 3s7p, so 3x voltage and 7 times current, 12v 14ah but it only means that the max discharge will be 14amps per hour, not that the capacity is limited at 14ah, it still have ~50ah capacity and will still deliver it along the time, depending on the board he uses to convert the voltage he will have around 90% efficiency.
if you charge it with a cheap 5v 200mah charger it will take roughly 250 hours. or about 10.5 days if you want a charge in a reasonable time 5Ah would be better and still safe. but still take ~10hr to charge. lipo's can safly go as high as 1c which if a 2500mah battery equals to 2.5A charging rate. so 50,000mah would be 50A.. not sure about li-ion. the charge controller board is rated for 25A so possibly a 2hr charge given you supply 25A. as someone who flies racing drones and has to set the charger to the correct value im more credible than the average iphone user.
Who gives a crap if it's a dodgy job.. since when is UA-cam a college or university..? If there exist idiots who would actually go and try this without having basic physics knowledge then a little population control wouldn't be too bad ;p
You have made a 3s7p battery. This supplies 3.6v (nominal) x 3 = 10.8v, with only 2000mAH (nominal) x 7 = 14,000mAH worth of current. You would need to have all the batteries in parallel (1s21p) to get near the 50,000mAH you stated (although it would only be 46,200mAH). If you look up 3s7p li-ion packs online you'll find them listed as 12v 14/18/20AH depending on the individual cell mAH capacity.
Super!!!
I agree 100%
@@vhenriquez240277 right 💯
💯 right 👍
If he make it in parallel he need to add more charging module besause one module only charge on 1 ampere , then he need more module and more charger to charge the battery pack
This music makes me want to break things
Yer your right it's F. Horrible.HA Ha
*MUSIC INTENSIFIES*
😂😂😂
people *
*ok*
*has a seizure at the immense disgust of this video*
A couple things to say:
For starters, this is NOT a 50000mAh battery. You rounded from the actual value of 21 x 2200 which gives 46200mAh on USED cells is completely wrong to round up this much. Even if they were brand new cells, I’d still be looking at this abomination of a calculation in disgrace. Now with only 6 of the cells being ICRI 8650-22FUs, which have a capacity of 2200mAh, over time of constant usage, they are definitely not going to be 2200mAh. You would be looking at 1500mAh at a push, considering that laptop batteries would have had a constant load on the cells and would have easily cycled the batteries from discharge to charge around 500 times. This is backed up by datasheet of these batteries at Spec No. 7.8 - Cycle Life, where it states that after 299 cycles of the battery, the capacity is estimated to be less than or equal to 1505mAh. So, given this, we are already talking about 31605mAh battery at a maximum which is probably the 98th percentile of the capacity of the cell. So, I feel like I’m right in saying that the total capacity of the array is about 30000mAh, not 50000, but this is going by your ludicrous and idiotic logic of calculating the capacity of an array of cells. which isn’t correct at all and is in fact less than 10000mAh.
Next let’s talk about battery wiring configurations. There are two ways to wire a battery. Series and Parallel. With series, you are increasing the output voltage and keeping the capacity value at a nominal value. Series is wired from Positive to Negative (+ to -). With parallel, you are increasing the total cell array capacity, and keeping the voltage nominal. Parallel is wired from Positives to Positives and Negatives to Negatives. (+ to + and - to -). 18650 cells are made in a way where the top is identified by a ridge in the side of the cell around the lip of the top of the cell and a coloured paper ring (easily differentiated to the shrink wrap of the cell). if you take 7 AAA batteries and put the positives in line and the negatives in line, you end up with a battery which has a large capacity but no increase in voltage. This is kind of what a D cell battery or C cell battery is. A larger capacity cell, not an increased voltage... In the instance of the 18650s, you are looking at the 7 cells having a total capacitance much less than 10000mAh. Imagine taking 3 D cells rated at 1.5 volts each and putting the positive end to the negative end 3 times. You are not going to get an increase in capacity whatsoever, but rather a voltage of 4.5V. Now, take the battery made in this video, and you are not getting anywhere neat to the proposed capacity the title suggests. You are talking about 5 times less than what the title says. I don’t know how you have a square root symbol in your channel banner but can’t even calculate how batteries add up…
Next, lets talk about your soldering. My seizure was mainly at this. I understand that you target your videos at a demographic who enjoy seeing ‘life hacks’ and cheaply making a product which would normally be expensive. However, this doesn’t excuse the fact that you can’t use tabbing wire. The copper wire you use is probably from a pair of headphones. Its so thin that it would struggle to handle the current of the wire and it would heat up. When you opened those laptop batteries, did you see any of that disgusting wire you used in there? No. They used tabbing wire which is a much safer and neater alternative. Not only that, but it reduces the chances of that battery pack becoming a bomb. I would expect a you tuber with a large following such as you to at least be able to learn how to solder properly. You should be presenting your videos so that people who a video titled with ‘How to make…’ don’t end up replicating your disgusting soldering. At least learn standard safety procedures. People who fall for your clickbait titles which make me revolt will clearly not know to safely perform the activities you show in your video.
You really should change how you present yourself on UA-cam to your audience or one day someone is going to get seriously injured trying to replicate what your doing here.
Shane Potticary it doesn’t make this video any less disgusting, but I think what he’s trying to do is cell-level fuses, like in Tesla modules. However, this is really, REALLY not how cell-level fuses work. If he wanted to do it properly, he would’ve only used the thin wire for around a centimetre to connect each cell to a more appropriately sized wire. Ugh.
Thank you for pointing wrongs and telling right things.
Well said mate :)
Wow I literally don't know what u r saying.....
@@nameremixx9311 if you dont what he is saying the why on gods earth are you watching stuff like this
Nice idea, but some very serious design flaws:
1) You just measured the voltage of the batteries and went from there. This is not a good idea when dealing with used lithium cells from laptop battery packs (or similar). The batteries must be capacity tested using a balance charger (like an Imax B6 or Turnigy Accucel).
2) When connecting batteries in series, they need to all be at the same voltage level, otherwise they will charge/discharge into each other. Make sure that all cells are at the same voltage before connecting in series, and try to put batteries of similar capacity together so that one weak cell doesn't down the entire pack.
3) This battery pack is not a 50,000mAh battery pack. You have to take the voltage of the entire pack and use the capacity of the cells that are in parallel with each other. For example, this is a 3S7P pack, meaning 3 cells in series and 7 in parallel. At 2.2Ah per cell, this is 15.4Ah or 15,400mAh at 11.1V.
4) The output of the pack is at 5V so to get the capacity at the output, you have to firstly calculate the Wh of the pack (15.4 * 11.1 = 170.94Wh) and then divide by the output voltage. So at 5V, it is just over 34Ah, minus any losses in the converters/regulators etc.
5) The soldering is very weak, and you'll likely get dry joints. You need to make sure that you use solder with flux/rosin built into it. Otherwise, you need to add additional flux/rosin when soldering.
Overall, good concept, but there are plenty of improvements that need to be made.
Oh wow thanks for the information, where did u learn this? Cuz i wanna learn to do diy projects with these batteries haha
Wow thanks for the info
Really important
Spotify95 You seem to know a lot about these diy power banks. I was about to duplicate his pack, only with new batteries. It would seem to eliminate some of the problems you listed. However, being a novice with battery packs, I wonder if you would suggest the right BPM for this set up. Also any place to get info on a project like this..
Thanks
Itu bikin apaan Pak Broo, coba saya pesan bisa ngak? saya mo pesen yg 120000mAh ntar kalo bisa gue ongkosin..alamat sampean dimana Pak Broo,negara apa...🙏
@@rodjara8506 check out Great Scott. Does everything the proper, yet still DIY, way
You should always have batteries that are the same capacity and preferably the same type with each other. To have the same voltage on all of them you have to charge them all to 4.2V and then only you should wire them together
I WANT MAKE POWERBANK FOR NOTEBOOK, NICE VIDEO...
Batteries are usually spot welded. But you can get away with soldering but... Soldering iron must be real hot and you must use flux so you can use as little amount of time as possible to avoid damaging the cell. Also your wires are just too thin. They increase internal resistance of the battery. Also if each cell has 2 000mAh at 3.7V then your whole battery has 7 batteries in paralel x 2 000mAh per battery at 3.7V that is 14 000 mAh at 11.1V because you have 3 banks in series wich increases your voltage but not your capacity. Wich is another think to consider. Why use so high voltage and then step it down quite a bit? There are regulators which can operate at nominal voltages of the lithium cells and even charge them (no need for BMS board = saved money). Also DC to DC operate at around 80% to 90% efeciancy. Better to loose 20% from 3.7V then 20% from 11.1V. One more thing. I would not trust that BMS board to limit the charging current. Get some proper charger to do that (or use dedicated power bank board that can handle that as well as steping the voltage up / down for that USB, as i wrote earlier)
most of the other "50,000" Mah batteries on the market are actually 50,000 Mwh or about 1/4 the power as advertised based on a 4v cell
14 000 mah at 11 volts it's almost same 50 000 mah at 3.7 ,; i do 3x less volts and get 3 x more amp ,, he mean that he have like a 50000 mah 3.7 volts batterie , so maybe around 180 wh
Klement Gottwald, not Stalin. Historia est Magistra Vitae :-)
Yeah, he could have saved a whole bunch of money on this project. He also wasted a lot of juice by stepping down 12v! He should have just built a 1s21p (21 cells in parallel). That way, the whole pack would have been 3.7V nominal and 4.2V fully charged. Then buy one or more of them 3.7v - 4.2v to 5v - 2.1A power bank modules! Imagine how many phones you could charge with this setup! if the cells are 2Ah, then you would have 2Ah * 21 cells = 42Ah
you can buy better a battery bank at the store the are you safetyer than making self but as you be stud for a Electrotechnical dan must you normally knowing what are you doing it
In 1 hour it went up from 10.9 to 11.8 or 11.9 with the all that flickering! Nice!!
Good tips, not complaining about the soldiering, it depends on who make the project. Good job for the great tips 😊
thank Fuzzyfi Saufi
I will complain about the soldering on his behalf 😕
Theo dõi lâu rồi mà giờ mới để ý đây là channel của người VN 🤣
1. Soldering to the battery case is not too smart, it's do-able; but if you pulled them from laptops: leave the metal tangs on them as they are a better soldering point.
2. 7 batteries in parallel is only 16.8 Ah or so. 3 of these in series gives a ~11V nominal battery. Series charging of lithiums is a pain...
3. Even if all cells were parallel (which would be ideal for charging etc.) the batteries would give ~50Ah, buut these are pulls from laptops; therefore expect a diminished capacity so ~30Ah is the best achieved.
4. [which really pertains to 2.] Each of those parallel banks has a _different capacity_ therefore when put in series there will be a weak set that will drain long before the others do; these cells need to be tested, measured and matched to achieve a safe and reliable pack.
5. The misinformation caused by stating 50'000mAh in title and thumbnail does in fact give cause to flag this as clickbait...
Come on, stating that used batteries give full as-new capacity, AND stating a parallel capacity (rather than the pitiful 10 amp-hours available from this jabbed-together recycled SERIES-PARALLEL pack) AAND the lack of testing of the batteries is really ticking off my inner engineer - especially since 370K people have seen this D:
Not only that but stating the capacity as thousands of milli-amp hours is the same as stating a price of "$9.99".
Does it hurt to just state the Amp-hours as they are without adding the trailing zeroes? (Stating in milli-amperes per hour is usually only done for a single-cell...)
Just think before doing something, this could have been a cool tut, but instead it's clickbaitey and there's no voice from the author, just over the top music that i may or may not like. An explanation really boosts the quality from a viewer's point of view.
Oh and work on that soldering! It's pitiful at best!!!
A tip for sexy-soldering: visualize the heat, get everything you wish to solder up to the same temperature; test the heat by prodding these areas with the solder; it should flow quickly, not slowly globbing about. But be careful not to overheat what your'e soldering; which in this case is the *bare-ass of a lithium cell!!!*
Which brings me back to 1. Soldering to the battery case is not too smart, it's do-able; but if you pulled them from laptops: leave the metal tangs on them...
2. .... 3. ...
and so on in an endless loop of doom...
dinesh
I don't think it's intentional click bait. Just had math. It's a good idea, just gone a little wrong.
I'm hoping to do something similar with Samsung batteries.
Oh and "sexy soldering" love it!!!!!
@@Willsanky, this is a stupid idea. He also wired the batteries in both series and parallel together incorrectly. NEVER DO THIS! It's a bomb at that point. This model never worked either. He edited the video and cut the power cord out of frame for a reason, this thing does not work. And should never be replicated.
@@jdeluca6181 I did end up making one. Slightly smaller though.
I used the proper flat fuse wire.
Never had a problem with it.
And yes, my soldering is so much better
@@Willsanky, I truly hope you did not wire your batteries like the moron making this video. There's a proper way of connecting lithium cells in parallel and series, and this video is not how to do it right.
So the Chinese call this an infinite, or 100,000,000,000,000 mah power bank..
Good honest video. Thanks for sharing. I have the zinc strips and batteries so far.. thanks again.. 👍🏼👍🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Your videos are really different from everyone, I love learning that much. I want more videos with you. (Thanks)
No2 cũng chuyên chế pim dự phòng khủng, nhưng thực sự chưa chế em nào lên tới 50000mad cả, cảm ơn video của bạn
occasionally clean the tip of the soldering iron, use a sponge not too wet but not too dry, and use the flux because on the circuit, the tin does not apply well.
Hi sir today making this one 🎉u r inspired me thanks a lot❤
Why would you use a 3S pack to get 5V output? It would make so much more sense and simplicity to have a 1S pack and use an off the shelf buck-boost converter designed to run a phone charger controller PLUS you wouldn't need a proprietary charging adapter, you could charge it with a USB cable.
Matthew Miller
So you can charge it off solar or power 12v loads is why I did mine like that.
zogworth you need a charging protection anyway. Just use one with a buck converter in it
Fair point but I have a shed full of solar stuff so made sense to run what I brung
zogworth ok :). But did you includ a charge controller?
I bottom balanced the cells and just used a normal PWM charge controller and disabled the float.
No balance charging because lazy but they're all +/- 0.02v of each other still.
Well it work. I strongly disagree on using used batteries. Good video. Great effort.
You are very creative bro.... Love it
Thank you, don't forget to subscribe to my channel :)
Good idea. I wonder why r people criticizing for no good reason. Hey after all its a cheap battery bank.
Great Job. You Just Built A Bomb With The Explosion Of 8 Early Released Note 7s.
Till the bms burn out it is still safe 😂👍🏻
Excellent video. Greetings from Venezuela.
love the dry joint's, and the extra light wire used to link um lol ;)
ua-cam.com/video/0LWgCv4IInc/v-deo.html
厲害，行動電源製作方法，好棒喔！😄👍👍👍👏👏👏
Nice project. Highly recommend using thicker wires to keep cells balanced.
Hey thanks for the video tutorial...it was fun watching you put this together.
clean your soldering iron tip and use flux pls
OMG I WAS thinking the same thing. CLEAN FUCKER CLEAN YOUR SHIT!
Gothic Sin hahaha
X-Creation
Soldering quality is disgusting! Wires could be little thicker. The power bank's case should be better, find some fit box. Also you didn't tested real capacity, so we don't know is it 50000mAh or 25000mAh.
This soldering iron is very disgusting...I also have the same shitt
and cut your nails!
You done this really good but there is USB port only one. There is two usb ports in case you can charge both devices well u try . Thanks for the video 👌
Use new LiFePo4 batteries of the same type and put them all in parallel. Then use a 2A boost converter to go from 3.3V to 5V. Balancing circuit not required. Use a small solid wire rated at 5A. If the battery is ever shorted the small wire will burn out acting like a fuse.
Thank you guy, I like this video, you use fewer materials and tools as what I am having right now I bought Li-ion 9800mah for more than 30 pcs I did not made research before buying, It need to refer to capacity of the module BMS at first priority .in the market they have for about 40amp,mine 300amp totally. Total cost it will be higher than just buy ready one to use in the market. I just need to do assembly for changing phone with my solar system without worry everyday about battery will run out. But it Seem like I need to keep it somewhere no using for almost the rest of it.
Throw it on railway station and run, Guaranteed meeting with Cops ...lol
Esta chulo para un campin si señor 👍👍👍
Never ever take this on a plane flight with you!
yes, i think too, it's really like a boom 😁😲😱
Hahha . Tik tok bom
literally is a bomb in making
HaLuNkE ST0NER j
Especially if youre middle eastern
good mr... i from indonesia
Someone is gonna blow themselves up after watching this.
I really hope they read these Comments Before "Do Not Do It This Way" should be in the title.
😂😂😂
Me probably
Nice project 👍👍👍
got to be the most crappy Soldering job ever
At one point there's a solder ball just standing on the pad =))
fully agree .. ridiculously poor soldering. The temperature of the iron does not match that required by the solder (suspect the solder is lead free)
Was about to type that!, needs more heat, solder flux and i'd use 60/40 tin lead solder.
Weak iron and needs flux.....
NO JUST plain truth. You do not like the comment to bad. Something not done correctly is as bad as not doing it at all
Cool 👌👌👌
Thats 12v configuration 2200 x 7 15,400 only series plus voltage an paralel plus amps and with 3a module is faster
The quickest way to bugger up your cells. Especially in the centre of the negative end. @ 2:09
You should work on your soldering skill a bit. Also the main concern for recycled cells is balancing. With 7 cells of unknown condition connected in parallel, you have no control over their charging.
used cells like this are used in DIY power walls all the time. and he does check them at the beginning. and its more likely that the charging circuit failed.
thanks from Colombia amazing ingeniering
6:19 bomb is planted.
Izkksösmksöxk8owpeöldldkrücvüüpü22 o lytştlrlrlrştş÷) %jskeoeeokeoele98pwpe9peklokkl)) löqi
÷8033 dffvjflrlw9999
@@Azad.Herdem Türkçe random
not planted it s build!
आपका नाम क्या है आपकी वीडियो बहुत अच्छी लग गई मन में
The gauge of wire and soldering job on this have me cringing SO HARD. But to be fair, it is a cool concept video.
same
Catchiest tune 😁
The wire you soldered ,is for shure not enough for such a current
That’s why he gets only about 500ma at the output, even after converting voltage with a good efficiency.
Nicely explained video thanks a lot
The video is very good, but you have to improve a lot in welding
Looks like time bomb
This is absolutely going to blow up if used for longer periods. Mismatched cells that were SOLDERED, not spot welded, combined with hilariously under-sized between the cells, are a failure waiting to happen. Best case scenario, it just stops working eventually, but the chance that one of these cells eventually bursts is VERY real.
That REALLY thin wire connecting the batteries... not good...🔥🔥🔥
@@mikaeljonsson4686 0mnbñm ñ be by Gmail ñ been
Superb I m going try this at home thanks for making this video
Terrible soldering. You should place a solder tip to pad and wait to good solder melting, or set soldering iron to higher temperature, or change the solder. These connections look like bird pecking
Yes but when you solder batteries (except for Li batteries that canot be soldered) is preferable at a lower temperature and for very short time or they would explode or broke.
Edgar Koterle
Hahahahah bird pecking:):):):):)
A Genuine Video, m using exactly the same thing at home
pls use the right gauge wire to suit your need's,
7 X 2,200 = 15,400mah, approx 50% capacity for used batteries takes the capacity down to 7,700mah
Çok iyi ya 👍🏽
21 X 2200 = 50000
its magic of math
@@contus_ thank u bro because u told me .....oh its hard questions
funny how some people are very linear thinking but not neglect seeing the obvious practical point.
He's rounding for the clickbaity title, it looks better rounding to an even high number to sell to an audience. Of course this involves science and tech so there's bound to be some finicky nerds that LOVE to correct any little detail and That's OK 😀👍 cause I still learned something even though I barely passed high physics physics
@KHONCHAFI Zakaria when it's 4900 to 4999 u can use (~) but 4600 too far
That's the only fallacy you found in this lying shitty video? 😂
(21×2600)×70%=
Thats soooo amazing set up.Great video!!!!!!
Ставь like если ты Русский !
Довай посмотрим сколько нас на этом канале .
Саша Чичков похоже что немного 🤔
@UA-cam Addict ну-ну
Я не русский. Ха-ха. Но все равно Лайк
Идея шорошое толка я бы на высоко токове. Сам себе хотел замутить....
3s7p, assume each cell in p gives 2200 mAh so 2200x7=15400 mAh.This should be the total mAh of the pack and not 50000. Did i miss something ?
Yeah i have doubt when we charge the mobile 12v can be step down to 5v with respect amp.Drawing only 5v instead of 12v.So it may increase the capacity
It can't be 50000 mAh and 10 Volts. It maximum can be 15400 Mah.
21x2200=46.200 correct amper..but can not be use momentary..if you use only cp charge yup correct amper..but u cant use for car start..everythink is nice and good job
amazing scale!
thank Eunchan Park
Thanks for sharing sir new supporters here
Protection on the plane said it was a bomb :(
amazing! guy. I think so :)
u
It is a bomb.
No it’s working!
Great Work
UGH!! That soldering job hurts my eyeballs to look at it.
I was about to say it hahahahah
That thin copper wire that you used to solder the batteries is gonna act like a fuse depending of the current that consumes the load you attach to the battery
Horrible soldering job
TheDIYGuy999
I agree. It is so painful to watch when the solder is not flowing and no flux is being used but to add on, he is using a trash soldering iron with a destroyed tip.
Ifd it works, it works
Agreed, but the joints will be poor and will fail; flux is your friend.
David Griffin well said
Wowww awsome
Fire hasard, pure...
LabFiona thank :)
X-Creation Do you put the batteries parallel or in a row and how they can re-shipped are all on whether
قنات شروحات الالعاب from what I can tell it's 7 batteries in parallel connected ted in series to 7 more 3 times. So 7x3
Hazard*
Learn to spell before you lecture people
Im from india very good
First, you directly soldered the battery, then you use those tiny wires. Eh...good job?!
Thanks 🥰
@@XCreation I think you have taken this comment as good ;) is there no hope, have you thought of entering the "Darwin Awards"
You are the BEST
Can i use this to make a insect hunter?
I need her to complete my research
Answer me please 😉
what is the display measuring in? is it measuring in ampere-hours? if so you're charging with 1 amp and you can get 2-3 amp power bricks, much more efficient
You mixed different mah batteries will there be problem with charge or not ? As you mixed different mah batteries togeather
its not reccomended, but dont recreate this because this is a bad example, there are premade battery boards for this. You could get away wity using diffrent cells but you gotta atleast make sire they are fully chargzd and are at arrounnd the samz vontagz because if one battery is at 3.7v and the other one is at 3.2v they are going to balabce out and you will have to chzrge again and you will lose the camacity by that.
So just make sure to grt the voltages of the diffrent batterys to be almost the same 3.7 or 3,67 isnt too bad
I do some research about it some saying that should use resistor because the limit of TP4056 is 1amp and 5v. 1amp = 1 lithium battery therefore the total is 4amps in 4battery while the voltage will stay the same (3.7v). The question is why do some people(DIY) in UA-cam using only (1 tp4056) and USB when creating a powerbank?
Where do you get 50Ah from?? Laptop cells are around 2200mAh each, and you have seven in parallel. Thus it’s only 7*2200mAh=15400mAh! Not even a third of 50000mAh...
MK it’s the equivalent in terms of watt-hours. I don’t know enough about the module he’s using to convert to 5V to say whether it’s acting as a transformer or a regulator (fuck me I hope it’s transforming...), but the output would be equivalent to a 50,000mAh capacity, minus some for the inefficiency of converting voltage. The bigger problem is that the cells he’s using aren’t new, meaning they’ll have much smaller capacities than he claims.
Love you boss
Only parallel connection adds up the capacity of the batteries so this power bank has 15400mah.
😰
O cara sabe nem soldar , vai saber disso?
@@Kingedtz pois é, se ele tivesse dado o valor em Wh poderia até ser, seria o mesmo independente do jeito que forem ligadas
The welding is not well done and that conductive wire is too thin for the current that circulates
Sir I like it but I confused how I know charge is complete or full?
From volt
When battery is empty volt eill be low
When its full ,volt will be high.
And sorry for the bad English
Nice👌 video
those are some cold joints.
the scissors he used to clip the wires :D cowboy all the way
I'm not sure, but there are three battery characteristics: voltage, current and capacity. A 12v battery with 14ah will power a 4v output as long as a 4v 42ah battery. people are saying that it's only 14-15 ah battery, I think not, it doesn't matter the way he arranged the batteries, I will always be 21 batteries at 2.2ah capacity, so always will be ~50ah capacity battery. He arranged at 3s7p, so 3x voltage and 7 times current, 12v 14ah but it only means that the max discharge will be 14amps per hour, not that the capacity is limited at 14ah, it still have ~50ah capacity and will still deliver it along the time, depending on the board he uses to convert the voltage he will have around 90% efficiency.
that's insane bro,hope you live close enough to the fire department
Joker
I think not insane but he do like normal2 aja, gak sampek kegilaan👍 thats dont make a call fire department😀
Great project😊
You dont know how to use a soldering iron.
Nice 🙂
Thank you! Cheers!
It would take a week to charge that power bank.
if you charge it with a cheap 5v 200mah charger it will take roughly 250 hours. or about 10.5 days
if you want a charge in a reasonable time 5Ah would be better and still safe. but still take ~10hr to charge. lipo's can safly go as high as 1c which if a 2500mah battery equals to 2.5A charging rate. so 50,000mah would be 50A.. not sure about li-ion. the charge controller board is rated for 25A so possibly a 2hr charge given you supply 25A.
as someone who flies racing drones and has to set the charger to the correct value im more credible than the average iphone user.
my powerbank of 20,000 mAh charges in 8 to 10 hours aprox, maybe in 1 day it can be charged with no problem :D
Wow that good i want it now
To all the people out there: DO NOT REPRODUCE THIS, PLEASE!
Man I had no idea electronics people were so touchy
Who gives a crap if it's a dodgy job.. since when is UA-cam a college or university..? If there exist idiots who would actually go and try this without having basic physics knowledge then a little population control wouldn't be too bad ;p
i think if you want to have 50 000. mah power bank you must have all cells in parallel
É exatamente isso!
Very nice bro
Mother of soldering .. my god.
Vv
Good job bro 👍
you lifepo4 11.6v 15AH full charge battery ( 13v.) Cut from charger oh!! charger High voltage now!!! ( charger no load )