Hey Team! I placed time stamps below the help you navigate the video. Let me know what you think! Coaxial cable installation 00:21 HDMI cable installation 07:13
Never staple the coax to the stud. I know it will take more time, but the conduit idea in another comment is brilliant. If coax is flattened, it will crush the die-electric inside and possibly allow the braiding to touch the center conductor. When this happens, it will create a short in the coax. I recommend either conduit down to a low voltage box (for space efficiency) or using a flexible clip that can be secured with a screw and is big enough to allow potential replacement if necessary. 5 year cable tech here just trying to help.
Hell yeah !!!!! I was just doing some research on this coax cable, I thought everyone out there was strictly running on WiFi until yesterday a customer asked me for this cable, I had no idea how the system worked….. Thanks Josh
This is exactly how I’ve been running the cable in the past few houses I have built. Tends to work great! I have ran some ethernet cables before for networking purposes. But it’s not very common. Thanks for watching!
Only suggestion would be to run Smurf tube (low voltage conduit) between your boxes with the coax/HDMI. That way, you can swap the cables out years down the road as needed without tearing it out.
First, you do great work. With wireless TV and Internet these days... no need for coax - or even Cat 5/6 - running all over the house. Higher speed cabling in the future may be fiber optic cabling - to each room. Moral of the story? Never cables. Run conduit up into the attic. So you can upgrade to the next big thing vs. permanent (and obsolete) cable plants. I used to run coax in all my houses... not anymore. Now its wireless and Roku for TV. And also wireless for phones, tablets, laptops, etc. As for HDMI ... conduit from a lower box to the higher mid wall box. So you can get several cables, in addition to HDMI, between boxes.
This is a pretty good setup but a few things I would do differently for a new build. 1. Add the largest conduit possible in the wall between low voltage connections where there is any possibility of technology changes. This will allow you to more easily pull cable for updated cables. Your media room for example. When HDMI goes to HDMI 2.2 or something else you are going to want to replace that cable. Plus you may find the cable fails or just isn't rated for what it claimed and you may need to replace it earlier than expected. 2. If you have a media room add conduit and boxes for runs to do the maximum surround sound setup in that room. You don't have to buy and run the wire but if you have it setup to easily accept the wire you will thank yourself later. Think ahead. Technology is still evolving very quickly you will want to update those cables before you know it.
I totally agree. My house coax cable got f**ked by the heat of summer during the day causing a signal interference. I tried to run a new route but there are too many cables inside the feeding hole. Can't even pull any cable out because of the clips. Then I gotta drill a new hole for it. What a waste!
@@sangn1696 That sucks! I moved into a (new to me) house last year and I am still working on completing my project to wire every room with cat6. I envy the option to work with new open walls to do the wiring. Of course having a new house built sounds like a lot of work, I don't envy that.
I would suggest using the low voltage boxes especially for the central hub because a 4-way splitter will not fit into the blue boxes, 17 year cable tv tech. I also would be careful using the wire staple like that because if you change the shape of the cable it will change the impedance and can cause issues down the road with broadband internet.
I say it third haha. Use drive rings and low Voltage rings instead of blue boxes... I've had contractors rip out my LV rings and replace with blue boxes, thinking that they are actually doing themselves a favor...
The problem with LV boxes on an exterior wall is that there’s no way to air seal the box properly that I know of if you’re using an air permeable insulation. You need to be able to seal up the back of the box where the wire enters.
That cable running off the Satellite dish is a powered cable. It provides a DC voltage to the LNB (the thing on the arm) Same stuff is used on CCTV cameras.
Always run cat6 with your coax and get a communication box to mount where your cables meet ant use a piece of conduit to go from the communications box to attic also an electrical outlet is a must at the communications box. Your router will always go at your communications box
That's how I do HDMI behind walls! But, instead of RG6 Coax everywhere, I run Cat6 cable to every room back to the main electrical service area of the house
For TV coax is ok, but not for computers. WIFI is terrible because signals get deflected by steel ducts, chutes, insulation with a foil face. Bounced signals mean more retries and slower speeds. Relying on WIFI is not ideal and means you have the same access to your network as do people outside. Super bad if you work from home. Wired is much faster and more secure. Cat 6 cable is what you want in every room with a computer, printer, or desk phone. Use a Keystone Jack to punch down wires in one side and have the RJ-45 on the other. Computers and such use RJ-45 to plug in. One jack per device, when in doubt add an extra (someone may come by with a laptop). If the CAT6 cable is NOT GROUNDED (most are not), then CAT6 should stay about 16 inches from power wires. Twisting the pairs (CAT6 is made that way) helps eliminate outside signals. If Cat6 cable is grounded, then ground the drain wires (to a water pipe or similar) but ONLY on ONE SIDE of the cable or you get a huge antenna and lots of interference. All CAT6 should go to a CAT6 Patch Panel in the basement, number the jacks (wall plates) the same number as the patch panel. The patch panel takes punched in wires on one side and RJ-45 on the other (like a multiple keystone jack). The Patch Panel connects nothing until you connect a Switch to it with "ethernet" cables (patch cables). The switch(es) connect everything, they are the "brains" of a local wired network. Basic switches have a 1Gb (Gigabit) speed, but more new PCs can handle 2.5Gb. even 5Gb and 10Gb. The wire, patch panel, and Keystone Jacks should all be CAT6 or better (no CAT5 or 5e) so you do not have a weak link and reduce your ethernet speed. RJ-45 is the physical hardware connection on the "ethernet cable". "Ethernet" is more like "software", the type of signals used. People often use RJ-45 and Ethernet to describe these hardware items, close enough. Do Not use "telephone wire" for DSL. The old RJ-11 6 conductor cable end fits into an RJ-45 8 conductor jack (socket). Use a CAT6 cable (you probably have a 500ft or 1000ft spool to wire a house) so use a piece of that instead. "Telephone wire" is CAT3 and slow, so why let it be a possible bottleneck to restrict your speed? Your HDMI cable should be labeled at both ends (numbers or letters, be clear) so you know which is which. I also like to number the electrical outlets and switches with the breaker numbers. Women usually hate this on the outside so label inside the switch plate or string tag the wire.
quad is a good idea if running near or in paralel to high voltage otherwise tri is prefect for all needs . use a comm box not a smurf box. also is that hdmi even in-wall rated most of those braided ones are for exterior use only so you should have conduit. for the fireplace conduit will save future upgrade frustration. recommend hiring a low voltage tech in the future.
@@TheExcellentLaborer I started my garage renovation and. Since you just commented on my post, thought I'd take a minute and say thanks for your video on wiring a house. I ran electric to 4 inside outlets. 3 outside outlets, and 4 new garage lights. And 2 new breakers, 1 double gang box. All by watching that video. Saved me thousands of dollars thanks very much. If I could show pictures I would. Thanks for taking the timento make these. As a avid lawn care addict. Who use to make videos I know the hours we outnin to editing these videos. 😊 🙏
I would use a proper exterior enclosed demarc box on the exterior, ALL runs inside of smurf tube to "future proof" everything, and use a enclosed structured wiring box at your central point like the ones that leviton uses. Just my two cents from years of low volt wiring.
my house its on a splitter near the breaker panel and strapped to ceiling of basement and around the wall exposed and also goes through the 1st floor to each bedroom
I would run a tube so that if you ever have to upgrade the hdmi later all you have to do is drop the cable down the tube or sleeve for easy replacement
You are doing a great job with all of the cables attached to the boxes for use but, what if the cable is not long enough to connect to the TV or the modem and the computer? Are the cables enabled to make an extension to it for reaching the media electronics?
Is this considered standard? Our electrical plan showed some kind of wiring for tv throughout house. However we are in late stage and realizing they didn’t do put it in.
10 years working for the cable company and those 4 gang boxes are not enough space for all those outlets. you definitely need an in-the-wall cabinet. also, try not to smash and those cables when you staple them down. you should have a little bit of play. impedance is a real issue as speeds are increasing to multi-gig speeds
6:33 you want your broadband modem on the first split, here. If you put the modem in the spare bedroom, it's going to be split twice, reducing the signal - in this case -3.5db and another -3.5db. This can lead to signal degradation and lower speeds. Multiple splitter will cause upstream to exceed 50dBmv and having fewer locked channels. There's 3 factors to signal quality (downstream power, upstream power, and Signal to Noise ratio), you're going to degrade signal with cascaded splitters between the service cable and the modem. When this happens, you're going to say "My internet provider sucks!" Also recommend you use a splitter with outputs equal to the number of cables in use. Don't get a 6 output splitter when only 3 are in use. If you decide not to, then absolutely use a 75ohm coax terminator cap... never leave any splitter output open with nothing connected.... including that cable run to a bedroom where there's not a TV in use... just disconnect the cable and terminate it at the splitter Now if you were running PEX, and had a 1/2" line, split it into two 1/2" lines and expected both appliances to run at the same time while getting the full expected volume and pressure as two dedicated 1/2 lines from the manifold, you'd be crazy to think that right? Same with RG6. As for cable going to the TV, you want your biggest best 4k/8k TV having the fewest splits (and least db loss), compared to your lesser used smaller TVs in the bedroom. one two way split to Modem and TV Leg1 2 way splitter on TV leg1 to Living room TV and TV Leg2 TV Leg 2 split to remaining TVs. Otherwise you're going to notice all the artifacts on your best TV because you've degraded the signal as much as all the other TVs which are smaller and don't need the bandwidth I'm also the type that knows plumbing, electrical, carpentry, woodworking, mechanics (jack of all trades) but in this case it takes doing the research so "just good enough" becomes "the best layout" or get a pro.
What happens when the hdmi cable by the fireplace fails? I have this similar situation happen. I cannot replace the hdmi as the cable was not run through a type of conduit.
Hi there at minute 2.45 you show the coaxial coming outdoor , what could i use so the coaxial doesnt just come out of the stucko wall , that would not look good , is there any kind of box i could use ? thanks
People don’t be this guy. They make rounded staples for anchoring coaxial and Ethernet cables. Use them. These media cables are a little more sensitive and can’t be pinched like this one is using a standard electrical wire anchor.
It is very old tech however it's easy and really cheap to run so better to just have it there if needed since alot of cable providers still use it such as Comcast and direct TV.
I have only ONE word to say: It's about drive, it's about power We stay hungry, we devour Put in the work, put in the hours and take what's ours (ahoo) Black and Samoan in my veins My culture bangin' with Strange I change the game, so what's my motherfuckin' name🚵🙏✅✅✅✅✅✅
I remember running into situations , lots of situations where electricians would run cable ( tv ) . They need to stay with electric , they screwed up so much by doing more less a loop system , what a waste of customers money , always , always , always do home runs . Everytime you split the cable , you lose signal , so many times when you get to the 4th tv , the signal loss is so great it's not watchable . Electricians , stick to electric !!!
Hey Team! I placed time stamps below the help you navigate the video. Let me know what you think!
Coaxial cable installation 00:21
HDMI cable installation 07:13
Never staple the coax to the stud. I know it will take more time, but the conduit idea in another comment is brilliant. If coax is flattened, it will crush the die-electric inside and possibly allow the braiding to touch the center conductor. When this happens, it will create a short in the coax. I recommend either conduit down to a low voltage box (for space efficiency) or using a flexible clip that can be secured with a screw and is big enough to allow potential replacement if necessary. 5 year cable tech here just trying to help.
Seen the staple and made me cringe
Hell yeah !!!!! I was just doing some research on this coax cable, I thought everyone out there was strictly running on WiFi until yesterday a customer asked me for this cable, I had no idea how the system worked….. Thanks Josh
This is exactly how I’ve been running the cable in the past few houses I have built. Tends to work great! I have ran some ethernet cables before for networking purposes. But it’s not very common. Thanks for watching!
Only suggestion would be to run Smurf tube (low voltage conduit) between your boxes with the coax/HDMI. That way, you can swap the cables out years down the road as needed without tearing it out.
Hey David! Yes that’s a great future proof plan idea. I still may run some. Thanks for watching!
Smurf with some mud rings. Absolutely
First, you do great work. With wireless TV and Internet these days... no need for coax - or even Cat 5/6 - running all over the house. Higher speed cabling in the future may be fiber optic cabling - to each room. Moral of the story? Never cables. Run conduit up into the attic. So you can upgrade to the next big thing vs. permanent (and obsolete) cable plants. I used to run coax in all my houses... not anymore. Now its wireless and Roku for TV. And also wireless for phones, tablets, laptops, etc. As for HDMI ... conduit from a lower box to the higher mid wall box. So you can get several cables, in addition to HDMI, between boxes.
This is a pretty good setup but a few things I would do differently for a new build.
1. Add the largest conduit possible in the wall between low voltage connections where there is any possibility of technology changes. This will allow you to more easily pull cable for updated cables. Your media room for example. When HDMI goes to HDMI 2.2 or something else you are going to want to replace that cable. Plus you may find the cable fails or just isn't rated for what it claimed and you may need to replace it earlier than expected.
2. If you have a media room add conduit and boxes for runs to do the maximum surround sound setup in that room. You don't have to buy and run the wire but if you have it setup to easily accept the wire you will thank yourself later.
Think ahead. Technology is still evolving very quickly you will want to update those cables before you know it.
I totally agree. My house coax cable got f**ked by the heat of summer during the day causing a signal interference. I tried to run a new route but there are too many cables inside the feeding hole. Can't even pull any cable out because of the clips. Then I gotta drill a new hole for it. What a waste!
@@sangn1696 That sucks! I moved into a (new to me) house last year and I am still working on completing my project to wire every room with cat6. I envy the option to work with new open walls to do the wiring.
Of course having a new house built sounds like a lot of work, I don't envy that.
I would suggest using the low voltage boxes especially for the central hub because a 4-way splitter will not fit into the blue boxes, 17 year cable tv tech. I also would be careful using the wire staple like that because if you change the shape of the cable it will change the impedance and can cause issues down the road with broadband internet.
Thanks for your input Jason! I definitely do not draw the staple down tight. Thanks for watching!
Cable guy here. I came here to say the same thing. No pinchy pinchy on the coax.
I say it third haha. Use drive rings and low Voltage rings instead of blue boxes... I've had contractors rip out my LV rings and replace with blue boxes, thinking that they are actually doing themselves a favor...
The problem with LV boxes on an exterior wall is that there’s no way to air seal the box properly that I know of if you’re using an air permeable insulation. You need to be able to seal up the back of the box where the wire enters.
Intergetic and a great video, just subscribed
Awesome! Thank you and I appreciate you subscribing!
That cable running off the Satellite dish is a powered cable. It provides a DC voltage to the LNB (the thing on the arm) Same stuff is used on CCTV cameras.
Plastic Flex Conduit (to pull/replace/upgrade HDMI cables. Also, use the Orange Data J-Boxes for easier access.
Always run cat6 with your coax and get a communication box to mount where your cables meet ant use a piece of conduit to go from the communications box to attic also an electrical outlet is a must at the communications box. Your router will always go at your communications box
I did run cat six cable from one side of the house to the other so I can extend my Wi-Fi router if I have to. Thanks for your input and watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I’ve been doing it 38 years always run cat 6 home run to every room especially if your already running rg6
love all your videos
Thank you! Subscribers that appreciate them like you are what keep me going. Thanks for watching!
very good video. thank you sir.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
How did you finish the 4-gang box? Love your vids man
That's how I do HDMI behind walls! But, instead of RG6 Coax everywhere, I run Cat6 cable to every room back to the main electrical service area of the house
For TV coax is ok, but not for computers. WIFI is terrible because signals get deflected by steel ducts, chutes, insulation with a foil face. Bounced signals mean more retries and slower speeds. Relying on WIFI is not ideal and means you have the same access to your network as do people outside. Super bad if you work from home. Wired is much faster and more secure.
Cat 6 cable is what you want in every room with a computer, printer, or desk phone. Use a Keystone Jack to punch down wires in one side and have the RJ-45 on the other. Computers and such use RJ-45 to plug in. One jack per device, when in doubt add an extra (someone may come by with a laptop). If the CAT6 cable is NOT GROUNDED (most are not), then CAT6 should stay about 16 inches from power wires. Twisting the pairs (CAT6 is made that way) helps eliminate outside signals.
If Cat6 cable is grounded, then ground the drain wires (to a water pipe or similar) but ONLY on ONE SIDE of the cable or you get a huge antenna and lots of interference.
All CAT6 should go to a CAT6 Patch Panel in the basement, number the jacks (wall plates) the same number as the patch panel. The patch panel takes punched in wires on one side and RJ-45 on the other (like a multiple keystone jack). The Patch Panel connects nothing until you connect a Switch to it with "ethernet" cables (patch cables). The switch(es) connect everything, they are the "brains" of a local wired network. Basic switches have a 1Gb (Gigabit) speed, but more new PCs can handle 2.5Gb. even 5Gb and 10Gb. The wire, patch panel, and Keystone Jacks should all be CAT6 or better (no CAT5 or 5e) so you do not have a weak link and reduce your ethernet speed. RJ-45 is the physical hardware connection on the "ethernet cable". "Ethernet" is more like "software", the type of signals used. People often use RJ-45 and Ethernet to describe these hardware items, close enough.
Do Not use "telephone wire" for DSL. The old RJ-11 6 conductor cable end fits into an RJ-45 8 conductor jack (socket). Use a CAT6 cable (you probably have a 500ft or 1000ft spool to wire a house) so use a piece of that instead. "Telephone wire" is CAT3 and slow, so why let it be a possible bottleneck to restrict your speed?
Your HDMI cable should be labeled at both ends (numbers or letters, be clear) so you know which is which.
I also like to number the electrical outlets and switches with the breaker numbers. Women usually hate this on the outside so label inside the switch plate or string tag the wire.
Great job 👏
quad is a good idea if running near or in paralel to high voltage otherwise tri is prefect for all needs .
use a comm box not a smurf box. also is that hdmi even in-wall rated most of those braided ones are for exterior use only so you should have conduit.
for the fireplace conduit will save future upgrade frustration.
recommend hiring a low voltage tech in the future.
Watching now
Hey Michael! Enjoy the video!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I started my garage renovation and. Since you just commented on my post, thought I'd take a minute and say thanks for your video on wiring a house. I ran electric to 4 inside outlets. 3 outside outlets, and 4 new garage lights. And 2 new breakers, 1 double gang box.
All by watching that video. Saved me thousands of dollars thanks very much. If I could show pictures I would. Thanks for taking the timento make these. As a avid lawn care addict. Who use to make videos I know the hours we outnin to editing these videos. 😊 🙏
I would use a proper exterior enclosed demarc box on the exterior, ALL runs inside of smurf tube to "future proof" everything, and use a enclosed structured wiring box at your central point like the ones that leviton uses. Just my two cents from years of low volt wiring.
Awesome, how deep is that frame for the fireplace ??? 🤔🤔🤔
Why didn't you use low voltage boxes or plaster rings for all low voltage cables. Is there some special code where you live?
my house its on a splitter near the breaker panel and strapped to ceiling of basement and around the wall exposed and also goes through the 1st floor to each bedroom
Do you have a video showing the coax hub finished? Using a big splitter to split the incoming antenna to all the runs?
I would run a tube so that if you ever have to upgrade the hdmi later all you have to do is drop the cable down the tube or sleeve for easy replacement
Good idea! Check out my video how to build a stone veneer fireplace. I show how I ran a tube for that purpose. Thanks for watching!
Ethernet would also be cool
Can I put router modem in attic
You are doing a great job with all of the cables attached to the boxes for use but, what if the cable is not long enough to connect to the TV or the modem and the computer? Are the cables enabled to make an extension to it for reaching the media electronics?
use a coupler in that case
I always run RG6 and CAT6 to every room while walls are open into at least one location, maybe two.
Is this considered standard? Our electrical plan showed some kind of wiring for tv throughout house. However we are in late stage and realizing they didn’t do put it in.
10 years working for the cable company and those 4 gang boxes are not enough space for all those outlets. you definitely need an in-the-wall cabinet. also, try not to smash and those cables when you staple them down. you should have a little bit of play. impedance is a real issue as speeds are increasing to multi-gig speeds
6:33 you want your broadband modem on the first split, here. If you put the modem in the spare bedroom, it's going to be split twice, reducing the signal - in this case -3.5db and another -3.5db. This can lead to signal degradation and lower speeds. Multiple splitter will cause upstream to exceed 50dBmv and having fewer locked channels. There's 3 factors to signal quality (downstream power, upstream power, and Signal to Noise ratio), you're going to degrade signal with cascaded splitters between the service cable and the modem. When this happens, you're going to say "My internet provider sucks!"
Also recommend you use a splitter with outputs equal to the number of cables in use. Don't get a 6 output splitter when only 3 are in use. If you decide not to, then absolutely use a 75ohm coax terminator cap... never leave any splitter output open with nothing connected.... including that cable run to a bedroom where there's not a TV in use... just disconnect the cable and terminate it at the splitter
Now if you were running PEX, and had a 1/2" line, split it into two 1/2" lines and expected both appliances to run at the same time while getting the full expected volume and pressure as two dedicated 1/2 lines from the manifold, you'd be crazy to think that right? Same with RG6.
As for cable going to the TV, you want your biggest best 4k/8k TV having the fewest splits (and least db loss), compared to your lesser used smaller TVs in the bedroom.
one two way split to Modem and TV Leg1
2 way splitter on TV leg1 to Living room TV and TV Leg2
TV Leg 2 split to remaining TVs.
Otherwise you're going to notice all the artifacts on your best TV because you've degraded the signal as much as all the other TVs which are smaller and don't need the bandwidth
I'm also the type that knows plumbing, electrical, carpentry, woodworking, mechanics (jack of all trades) but in this case it takes doing the research so "just good enough" becomes "the best layout" or get a pro.
What happens when the hdmi cable by the fireplace fails? I have this similar situation happen. I cannot replace the hdmi as the cable was not run through a type of conduit.
Hi there at minute 2.45 you show the coaxial coming outdoor , what could i use so the coaxial doesnt just come out of the stucko wall , that would not look good , is there any kind of box i could use ? thanks
They make an hdmi wall plate and would have worked a lot better
People don’t be this guy. They make rounded staples for anchoring coaxial and Ethernet cables. Use them. These media cables are a little more sensitive and can’t be pinched like this one is using a standard electrical wire anchor.
So daisy-chaining your coaxial cable from room to room isn't a good approach?
Daisy chaining doesn't work for some applications. Home-runs are best
Isn’t coaxial cable old tech?? Wouldn’t it be better to just run cat6/7 cable??
My internet provider requested cat 5 or 6
@@nailbndr9869 coaxial is old tech
It is very old tech however it's easy and really cheap to run so better to just have it there if needed since alot of cable providers still use it such as Comcast and direct TV.
Bro, those are not the right boxes for low-voltage or HDMI
If you ever have to replace the HDMI, those are the improper boxes
in Europe we have brick walls
Do you answer DM’s on instagram?
Hey Joshua! I actually rarely check those. I’ll take a look. Thanks for watching!
😂
HERN RUN = HOME RUN
You didn't run ethernet/fiber? Big mistake
HMDI? Lol
Someone finally noticed! Good work!!
Looks very unnecessary for today's usage. People still pay for cable tv :O
'amazon picks' items are just overpriced lmfao
I am very curious! How many people watching that early? I mean before an hour🍬🙏
This is a clown show.
Boring.....
I have only ONE word to say: It's about drive, it's about power We stay hungry, we devour Put in the work, put in the hours and take what's ours (ahoo) Black and Samoan in my veins My culture bangin' with Strange I change the game, so what's my motherfuckin' name🚵🙏✅✅✅✅✅✅
Yup. That was just ONE word, alright.🙄
Wth
I remember running into situations , lots of situations where electricians would run cable ( tv ) . They need to stay with electric , they screwed up so much by doing more less a loop system , what a waste of customers money , always , always , always do home runs . Everytime you split the cable , you lose signal , so many times when you get to the 4th tv , the signal loss is so great it's not watchable . Electricians , stick to electric !!!