Nice work, when putting head back on my frontier hawk, i put the eye in cup of boiling water to make it slightly expand, knocked it back on the handle then ran it under the cold tap to make it contract,, the head is a perfect solid fit
File the hawk head eye so it stops digging into the wood. Top & bottom of the eye. Trust me this helps get better friction fit without it damaging the wood more during usage...
always fun to see you sir !! I have one that was made for my dad 60 years ago ?? Love it. I like a longer handle so I cN big swing cut and choke up on it for smaller stuff like you did. Blessings!!
+Ray Walter I'm still on the fence about the long handle. I originally picked this up to be a lighter and more compact alternative to the H&B tomahawk, but like you I kind of like the ease of using the longer handle.
Thanks, Dylan! Hope you enjoy it here, sorry it took so long for me to respond to you, I was away on a camping trip for work. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Tru-oil will put an excellent finish on an axe handle. I have it on my axes. I figure that if it will protect a rifle stock it should protect an exe handle and it provide an excellent grip to the handle.
All I know is, 1055 is a different steel from 1070 ... The hardening process has nothing to do with it. 1055= 0.50- 0.60 % carbon content 1070= 0.65- 0.75 % carbon content. The bit is harder than the eye, which they left relative soft. That is quite true.
There's no actual attachment point on these. The handle is slightly tapered with the top being bigger around than the hole in the hawk's head, so that it can't slide off, and the bottom being slightly smaller than that hole so that you can slide it on. The idea is to get the taper on the handle just right so that you have plenty of contact between the tapered wood inside the hole in the hawk's head so it causes enough friction to get stuck on there really well so it won't slide around. The top is too big to let the tomahawk head slide off, and you just get it stuck as far up the handle as you can so it won't move. Most good quality hawk handles are made with a very gentle taper so it's easy for the head to get stuck on there, but Cold Steel's handles suck from the factory and don't produce enough friction to get the head stuck on there because they have a very sharp taper, which is why you have to shape them a little bit to get a proper fit.
It "forces a patina", or in plain language, makes a decorative layer of corrosion that prevents the nasty harmful corrosion. Similar to gun barrel bluing.
I own several of there tomahawks for quite a few years now, done quite a bit of work with them (including building a dougout canoe, mainly using the frontier hawk) and never had the slightest issue with them. On the contrary i consider them to be excellent tooles especially considering the price the sell for.
Nice work, when putting head back on my frontier hawk, i put the eye in cup of boiling water to make it slightly expand, knocked it back on the handle then ran it under the cold tap to make it contract,, the head is a perfect solid fit
Final product looks great. I have a Pipehawk to do. Already did a Rifleman's and a Frontier. Addictive. :)
I really like the way it turned out with minimal effort or hard to find ingredients!! Well done wiggy I’m g I buy a frontier!!!
File the hawk head eye so it stops digging into the wood. Top & bottom of the eye. Trust me this helps get better friction fit without it damaging the wood more during usage...
You seem like a very personable guy; you smile a lot. I like that. Enjoyed watching you mod this thing. Thanks, my friend.
always fun to see you sir !! I have one that was made for my dad 60 years ago ?? Love it. I like a longer handle so I cN big swing cut and choke up on it for smaller stuff like you did. Blessings!!
+Ray Walter I'm still on the fence about the long handle. I originally picked this up to be a lighter and more compact alternative to the H&B tomahawk, but like you I kind of like the ease of using the longer handle.
I understand your thoughts!! You can get another handle and make it a shorter one and have best of both worlds lloll!!
+Ray Walter I might order a handle from H&B, theirs seem to be really tough.
Good plan! I'm re stiching the leather cover for mine. A new thing for me. Be well sir !
Looks really great!
I got mine coming in the mail tomorrow. This video is perfect.
awesome video man subscribed.. love the smaller youtube channels :)
Thanks, Dylan! Hope you enjoy it here, sorry it took so long for me to respond to you, I was away on a camping trip for work. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Tru-oil will put an excellent finish on an axe handle. I have it on my axes. I figure that if it will protect a rifle stock it should protect an exe handle and it provide an excellent grip to the handle.
Really informative and good video
Can I use wood stain then boiled linseed oil
I put Teak Oil on my handles. Penetrates hard woods great.
great. do you have a channel?
I probably will just wire wheel the paint off because I'm an impatient sort of person... I really like the Ketchup idea... nice video..
Im around 5:00. File to the Tomahawk head hole to wear awaycthe sharp edges to stop it ftom digging into the wood.
The Vinegar forma a Patina on the Head being that it is a Carbon Steel, So it would turn Black etc.
Cooking with vinegar is great for forced patina (half or one hour) you become a rough grey surface.
Ketchup?
The cs blade edge is hardened to 1070, while the rest is 1055...
All I know is,
1055 is a different steel from 1070 ... The hardening process has nothing to do with it.
1055= 0.50- 0.60 % carbon content
1070= 0.65- 0.75 % carbon content.
The bit is harder than the eye, which they left relative soft. That is quite true.
Do you magin
How did you attach the blade to the handle? I know it's all friction, but how does it attach?
There's no actual attachment point on these. The handle is slightly tapered with the top being bigger around than the hole in the hawk's head, so that it can't slide off, and the bottom being slightly smaller than that hole so that you can slide it on. The idea is to get the taper on the handle just right so that you have plenty of contact between the tapered wood inside the hole in the hawk's head so it causes enough friction to get stuck on there really well so it won't slide around. The top is too big to let the tomahawk head slide off, and you just get it stuck as far up the handle as you can so it won't move. Most good quality hawk handles are made with a very gentle taper so it's easy for the head to get stuck on there, but Cold Steel's handles suck from the factory and don't produce enough friction to get the head stuck on there because they have a very sharp taper, which is why you have to shape them a little bit to get a proper fit.
This was posted in 2016 but looks like it was shot in 2006
you have good videos
+Zack Schiller Thank you!
ketchup prevents it from rusting??? is this for real?
It "forces a patina", or in plain language, makes a decorative layer of corrosion that prevents the nasty harmful corrosion. Similar to gun barrel bluing.
Good product but they do need to be customized.
You wasted your money on that blade. Use a grinder you can't hurt it. Use a file on the handle
That head's fit terribly.
CS is a garbage brand it all breaks the first week.
I own several of there tomahawks for quite a few years now, done quite a bit of work with them (including building a dougout canoe, mainly using the frontier hawk) and never had the slightest issue with them.
On the contrary i consider them to be excellent tooles especially considering the price the sell for.