When I had the sills done on my x100, I provided the repairer with the replacement panels from DCR in Scotland. Excellent fit and made for a totally invisible repair. Recommended.
Well done John. I can’t believe you got all that work done for that money! The work is of a high standard and the finish is excellent. Just to give some context here. I had a 2 mm x 3 or 4 mm chip on the very edge of the passenger door for which I got a quote from Chips Away for £960! Needless to say I gave them a crap review and told them in no uncertain terms that their quote was ludicrous. I have noted down Glenn’s details. I thought that colour was BRG as I have what looks like the same colour scheme on my ‘03 XKR convertible. On the stone chip front, a few extra coats of lacquer may have brought the ‘tooth’ down on the surface texture.
Hi John, very interesting video again! Quality and price of the work are remarkable - although I 'm afraid, I'd "see" the difference in the stonechip texture everytime I approach the car - simply beacuse I know it's there... 😉 but much more importantly the dent in the bootlid has gone, really can't see any colour-difference there! Perfect work! I have some minor paint issues on my car and I really do hope to find a specialist like Glen to do the job! Unfortunately Lincolnshire is a bit too far away 😉
Great video John. It is difficult to establish this relationship with skilled repairers, whose workmanship and integrity can be trusted. I value this type of advice and recommendation. I have had a quote for 3k to do similar work so I appreciate the idea that better value for money is out there!
You will love the Adamesh lowering springs - I used them only on the rear or my XK8, it provided a perfect stance, just lowered enough. Absolutely no difference in ride, no NVH, the car still drove like it was standard.
Sorry I missed the live show, fantastic job she looks superb! I had the rear wheel arches cut out and replaced a few years ago on my 03 xk8, I've coated all of my underside with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 then used BH underbody spray over that. Very pleased with the result 😀 Cheers, Jon
Hello John, just watched this video, Glen did a very good job and the price really surprised me. my Eloise had to undergo a paint job, too, as someone run a trolley into her bonnet and disappeared. Costs were about 2500€ . Thank God the insurance took over and I had to pay only 300€ by myself. The colour of the bonnet is now not 100% equal but I guess 95%. The light reflexion changes between green and blue are a bit different now. Maybe I’m a bit too critical, my wife says it’s ok,lol. Thanks John and bye, Dieter
Hi John, once again a very good video. Thanks. My small dent in the trunk lid is still not repaired. Since this damage is minimal, I will deal with it later. Greetings Udo
Alway great info from u John ,, I’m just on last knocking of a refurbish on my xkr as you know just saving like mad for the respray , all the underside has been done , and now it’s the tops turn to get the same treatment I’ve been quoted £10,000 , so I’m expecting Better than factory finish job
Hi John Thanks for your youtube channel, very informative and interesting. i have a LHD USA/Canada spec year 2000 XKR convertible. My Jaguar is my daily drive in the summer months. My winter car is a 2004 L322 TD6 Vogue. I recently had a brake problem whilst driving home for the weekend some 740KM. I stopped halfway for a coffee. On restarting my car I had a solid brake pedal and F1 style non servo braking. The problem was that the small plastic tube for the servo vacuum had got heated and the vacuum had collapsed the pipe flat, so no more suction. As my car is LHD I guess a right hand drive it all on the other side. I also discovered that the cat convertor only has a heat shield on the other side from my tube. Maybe this was an oversight from Jaguar? I think it would be a good idea to fit a heatshield on both sides hence protecting the weak link in the servo braking system. I also think it would be advantageous to carry a spare servo tube with the ready made fittings, i had no warning of brake fade or change in brake performance prior to failure. Keep up the good work on your channel, Best Tim
Thanks Tim. Sorry to hear you had this issue. I cant speak for later cars or LHD cars but mine has heat shielding on both sides, and the Servo vacuum lines. run through a silvered cloth sleeve. Thank you for the cautionary tale. 👍
Thanks John, I have dinitrol,d as far as I can but I have a feeling that with my 2005 xkr soft top, the sills have both an inner and, what can be seen, the outer. Presumably stiffening. I cannot see how to put rust preventative into the area between the two skins and before I start drilling holes would be grateful for any advice or comments. Thank you for your helpful videos. As a final comment, I do not like the sprayed on foam applied around the boot side of the rear wing edges. Difficult to remove to get preservative to these areas. Take care!
Great video John. I would certainly travel from the West Midlands and happily leave my car with a proven and recommended professional. I will have to add this video to my favourites so I cane easily find it as I'm sure at some point in the future, "Honor" my metallic anthracite XK8 will need some TLC.
Great video as usual John. I am happy to see the work your car needed was a lot less than mine. The work looks great especially for the money you paid. The blood lid, was the dent dressed out and then a little filler or was the metal replaced?
Hi John. Great video and very informative as is likely to be something we all need to deal with at some point. Very much looking forward to seeing videos on the gearbox service and new springs. 👍 Are you planning on going to any shows or events this year? I will again be at Simply Jaguar at beaulieu this year. I know that's a bit of a trek for you. Maybe take the motorhome 😁👍
Hi John,great videos and tips so big thanks. Couple of new subjects for future topics. I have a early May 1996 convertible same green colour.so have same issues of colour variation as you. Can you show your early spec over headlight trim panels?..mine are missing and i want to make or source replacements. Also i like to share my issue of the glove box not unlatching.it can be repaired by de-riveting the top 3 inner securing rivets(careful drill off rivet heads only)..fault is jammed latch pins binding mechanical lock. then fix by reprofile the worn plastic handle V groove and regrease the 2 latch pins.reassemble mechanism using very small diameter self tapping screws into the hollow original rivet stems .take care not to drill too deep to outer skin! Recommend owners to check their cooling systems per the XK8 tech bulletins for compliance of the header tank pipe routing .it changed over the years of production run...also check all the thin pipes from the header tank not clogged by running a wire down each pipe to - rad/thermostat/underwing overflow tank.... I am in Japan with hot summers and my clogged system resulted in the radiator plastic end cap bursting and dumping all the coolant.1996 old plastic and high underbonnet temperatures are a ticking timebomb.check all coolant system plastic for cracks and test your thermostat and ECT sensor are in spec operating temperature range.
Time to get some miles on that XK8 mine has currently 110,634 I'm sure others can beat it, C'Mon guy show me the miles :) John IF it makes you feel better (which I doubt) I forgot my XK8 was on my drive backed my truck out and hit the mirror (That's what I thought) when I got out I had but a huge dent in the drivers door that cost quite a few dollars to fix :( Wiring Diag, probably Mercedes in Germany (but of course it will be in German) Tun du sprichst Deutsch (Do you speak German) Whilst I am impressed with the colour match the texture finish would bug me they should sand it to match PRIOR to painting.
Hi John, I missed the premiere so I'll post my query here. I have a '99 XKR (2000 model) with adaptive cruise control which works fine until the engine bay gets hot. It will fail if stuck in traffic and not work at all when starting the car if the car has sat in the sun. Once the engine bay cools, restarting the car brings it back to life. The problem is less common during colder weather as you would expect. I've posted this problem on Jaguar forums and Facebook groups but never had a good answer and I'm baffled to be honest.
Excellent video John, the work done on your car is excellent and what a reasonable price, did you have the whole of the underside undersealed? I have had my car rust proofed and undersealed by Southwest Rustproofing in Westbury Wiltshire with a product called Dinitrol, they also inject all the cavities and I'm extremely pleased with the work. I'm hoping it stands me in good stead for the future.
Hi David. No he just undersealed the rear arches for me. But my car was undersealed previously. (possibly 10 years ago!) Might be about time i topped it all up
Hi David,I have my car booked in for Dinitrol treatment by the "Man to go to" here in N.Ireland he deals with vintage cars, tractors and the like apparently very thorough going to take afew days he is very busy which I am taking as a good sign and a nice chap to boot. I am reasurred by your remarks. regards Richard
Wow. £1100 Now I’m starting to think it would be worth driving half way up the country to get my beasts bodywork done. Have spent about £15k so far and that’s all underneath and some bits inside and still have the top bodywork done. She’s all good to the top of the stone chip level.
I hate to be the critical one here but I wouldn't be entirely happy with that repair. The paint looks good (I understand the panels sometimes look like they don't match) - the boot looks fantastic. However, obviously there is the problem that you pointed out with the stone chip, I noticed on the passenger side you can also see a vertical line about half a meter forward if the rear wheel arch which I guess is either the edge of the new stone chip or where the laquer hasn't been blended in. Also on that side you can see when the outside light reflects on the corner of that panel (where the stone chip meets the end of the wheel arch) that it is not flat. The drivers side looks the same but it's not obvious when looking at that part head on. I'm a perfectionist though so for what you paid it is probably reasonable.
Thanks Huw. The Stone chip finish doesnt worry me at all. But as always in my videos, I like to share everything I see, have trouble with or that others may have issues with. The vertical line is a seam on the sill that is present on all X100's unless they have been actively de-seamed in this area. One of our subscribers (Gary Norris) has an amazing XK8 that has had this seam removed along with the seams running vertically below the tail lights.
Oh yeah I know the seam is there but this looks like it's in the paint (further back) when you moved the camera along you could see left of the line is gloss with the original stone chip and to the right of the line looks a bit flat.
Hi there. Could you tell me what to do with my remotes ? Neither of the 2 will work at all !!! I've changed the batteries on 1 remote no change . Access to the car was achieved by the drivers door by use of the key. The alarm sounded but all went quiet when i inserted the key in the ignition. The engine then started. The battery was fully charged as i just removed my CTEK charger before starting. The remote worked ok 6 wk's ago when i went to start it as the car is not used over winter.
Hi Andrew Sounds like your remotes need re-coding to your car. I did a video on how to do that. Here is a link for your convenience. ua-cam.com/video/VVnLZiAXA_U/v-deo.html
John I need some help. I just days ago got 1997 xk8 I am looking for the proper motor oil. I know I need 5w30 but the api code and acea spec A2 is outdated. Can you help.
You can get it up on stands with the wheels off and poke around aggressively with a long screwdriver on the rear chassis rails as shown, and the front ones behind the suspension. Floor pans also rot, usually seen beneath front footwell carpets - I had the plates under there cut off and found unknown rot in both footwells
Hi John, Glenn's bodywork was excellent and cost effective compare to East london, I have a question please, on my XK8 1998 I can't find the drain plug on the cooling syatem, do I have to remove the cover just under (3xbolt) the radiator or is it located in the engine block? Cheers!
Check the breather pipes connected to the cam covers. A hole in one of them could trigger that warning. as could a hole in the intake snorkle after the MAF. (Altough that would cause lean on both banks) It could also be a bad intake manifold seal.
When I had the sills done on my x100, I provided the repairer with the replacement panels from DCR in Scotland. Excellent fit and made for a totally invisible repair. Recommended.
Yours looks brilliant in the pictures Gerard👍
Well done John. I can’t believe you got all that work done for that money! The work is of a high standard and the finish is excellent. Just to give some context here. I had a 2 mm x 3 or 4 mm chip on the very edge of the passenger door for which I got a quote from Chips Away for £960! Needless to say I gave them a crap review and told them in no uncertain terms that their quote was ludicrous.
I have noted down Glenn’s details. I thought that colour was BRG as I have what looks like the same colour scheme on my ‘03 XKR convertible. On the stone chip front, a few extra coats of lacquer may have brought the ‘tooth’ down on the surface texture.
Can you please do a video on replacing seat leather, also cleaning out of the throttle console?
Do the gearbox service. J gate use often triggers issues. Lowering suspension works with the big wheels, but not sure about the 18s
Hi John, very interesting video again! Quality and price of the work are remarkable - although I 'm afraid, I'd "see" the difference in the stonechip texture everytime I approach the car - simply beacuse I know it's there... 😉 but much more importantly the dent in the bootlid has gone, really can't see any colour-difference there! Perfect work! I have some minor paint issues on my car and I really do hope to find a specialist like Glen to do the job! Unfortunately Lincolnshire is a bit too far away 😉
Another classic TTG. Glad Purdy's been mended and looking great!
Agree with your point ref selecting the right bodyshop. Glad you found a good one.
Hi John, that's some top work there by your paint guy, you genuinely would never know that it had been repaired 👍
Great video John. It is difficult to establish this relationship with skilled repairers, whose workmanship and integrity can be trusted. I value this type of advice and recommendation.
I have had a quote for 3k to do similar work so I appreciate the idea that better value for money is out there!
You will love the Adamesh lowering springs - I used them only on the rear or my XK8, it provided a perfect stance, just lowered enough. Absolutely no difference in ride, no NVH, the car still drove like it was standard.
Great insight thanks👍 I really like Adamesh parts so was probably going with them anyway but you have tipped me over the edge😁👍
Sorry I missed the live show, fantastic job she looks superb! I had the rear wheel arches cut out and replaced a few years ago on my 03 xk8, I've coated all of my underside with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 then used BH underbody spray over that. Very pleased with the result 😀
Cheers,
Jon
Sounds great Jon. I am as you know a big fan of Bilt Hamber products.
Hello John, just watched this video, Glen did a very good job and the price really surprised me. my Eloise had to undergo a paint job, too, as someone run a trolley into her bonnet and disappeared. Costs were about 2500€ . Thank God the insurance took over and I had to pay only 300€ by myself. The colour of the bonnet is now not 100% equal but I guess 95%. The light reflexion changes between green and blue are a bit different now. Maybe I’m a bit too critical, my wife says it’s ok,lol. Thanks John and bye, Dieter
Great video John. Purdy looks great! Looking forward to the gearbox service and the lowering springs.
Hi John, once again a very good video. Thanks. My small dent in the trunk lid is still not repaired. Since this damage is minimal, I will deal with it later. Greetings Udo
Thanks fforthe compliment, and for the info Udo.👍
Good job on the paint there. Nice.
THANKS ANDREW. Im very pleased with the results and the price
Alway great info from u John ,, I’m just on last knocking of a refurbish on my xkr as you know just saving like mad for the respray , all the underside has been done , and now it’s the tops turn to get the same treatment
I’ve been quoted £10,000 , so I’m expecting
Better than factory finish job
Hi John
Thanks for your youtube channel, very informative and interesting.
i have a LHD USA/Canada spec year 2000 XKR convertible.
My Jaguar is my daily drive in the summer months.
My winter car is a 2004 L322 TD6 Vogue.
I recently had a brake problem whilst driving home for the weekend some 740KM.
I stopped halfway for a coffee.
On restarting my car I had a solid brake pedal and F1 style non servo braking.
The problem was that the small plastic tube for the servo vacuum had got heated and the vacuum had collapsed the pipe flat, so no more suction.
As my car is LHD I guess a right hand drive it all on the other side.
I also discovered that the cat convertor only has a heat shield on the other side from my tube.
Maybe this was an oversight from Jaguar?
I think it would be a good idea to fit a heatshield on both sides hence protecting the weak link in the servo braking system.
I also think it would be advantageous to carry a spare servo tube with the ready made fittings, i had no warning of brake fade or change in brake performance prior to failure.
Keep up the good work on your channel,
Best
Tim
Thanks Tim. Sorry to hear you had this issue.
I cant speak for later cars or LHD cars but mine has heat shielding on both sides, and the Servo vacuum lines. run through a silvered cloth sleeve.
Thank you for the cautionary tale. 👍
Hi John, any advise on deflating lumber support seats, they pump up readily but deflate quickly. Regards Richard
Thanks John, I have dinitrol,d as far as I can but I have a feeling that with my 2005 xkr soft top, the sills have both an inner and, what can be seen, the outer. Presumably stiffening. I cannot see how to put rust preventative into the area between the two skins and before I start drilling holes would be grateful for any advice or comments.
Thank you for your helpful videos. As a final comment, I do not like the sprayed on foam applied around the boot side of the rear wing edges. Difficult to remove to get preservative to these areas.
Take care!
Great video John. I would certainly travel from the West Midlands and happily leave my car with a proven and recommended professional.
I will have to add this video to my favourites so I cane easily find it as I'm sure at some point in the future, "Honor" my metallic anthracite XK8 will need some TLC.
So glad that you have you baby back and are pleased with the results. BTW, how is Molly, all better?
She is excellent now thank you, Bouncing around the living room as I type. She is after a bit of attention and possibly a walk.
Thanks for asking.
Great video as usual John. I am happy to see the work your car needed was a lot less than mine. The work looks great especially for the money you paid. The blood lid, was the dent dressed out and then a little filler or was the metal replaced?
Drilled and pulled then the hole welded up and a little filler
Oh well done, that little accident made me sad. There's something about those cars, reminds me of the underside of the xj40.
Hi John. Great video and very informative as is likely to be something we all need to deal with at some point.
Very much looking forward to seeing videos on the gearbox service and new springs. 👍
Are you planning on going to any shows or events this year? I will again be at Simply Jaguar at beaulieu this year. I know that's a bit of a trek for you.
Maybe take the motorhome 😁👍
Hi John,great videos and tips so big thanks.
Couple of new subjects for future topics. I have a early May 1996 convertible same green colour.so have same issues of colour variation as you.
Can you show your early spec over headlight trim panels?..mine are missing and i want to make or source replacements.
Also i like to share my issue of the glove box not unlatching.it can be repaired by de-riveting the top 3 inner securing rivets(careful drill off rivet heads only)..fault is jammed latch pins binding mechanical lock. then fix by reprofile the worn plastic handle V groove and regrease the 2 latch pins.reassemble mechanism using very small diameter self tapping screws into the hollow original rivet stems .take care not to drill too deep to outer skin!
Recommend owners to check their cooling systems per the XK8 tech bulletins for compliance of the header tank pipe routing .it changed over the years of production run...also check all the thin pipes from the header tank not clogged by running a wire down each pipe to - rad/thermostat/underwing overflow tank.... I am in Japan with hot summers and my clogged system resulted in the radiator plastic end cap bursting and dumping all the coolant.1996 old plastic and high underbonnet temperatures are a ticking timebomb.check all coolant system plastic for cracks and test your thermostat and ECT sensor are in spec operating temperature range.
Ive made a note aa engineer. i will see what i can do👍
Time to get some miles on that XK8 mine has currently 110,634 I'm sure others can beat it, C'Mon guy show me the miles :)
John IF it makes you feel better (which I doubt) I forgot my XK8 was on my drive backed my truck out and hit the mirror (That's what I thought) when I got out I had but a huge dent in the drivers door that cost quite a few dollars to fix :(
Wiring Diag, probably Mercedes in Germany (but of course it will be in German) Tun
du sprichst Deutsch (Do you speak German)
Whilst I am impressed with the colour match the texture finish would bug me they should sand it to match PRIOR to painting.
Hi John, great Video, great Job. Keep on going 👍
Hi John, I missed the premiere so I'll post my query here.
I have a '99 XKR (2000 model) with adaptive cruise control which works fine until the engine bay gets hot. It will fail if stuck in traffic and not work at all when starting the car if the car has sat in the sun. Once the engine bay cools, restarting the car brings it back to life.
The problem is less common during colder weather as you would expect.
I've posted this problem on Jaguar forums and Facebook groups but never had a good answer and I'm baffled to be honest.
Had this problem on my xj it was the drive shaft speed sensor, cleaned it and it was good to go.
@@johnwillis9534 I'll give that a try but I can't see how heat in the engine bay would be connected.
Intercooler pump perhaps?
@@Punisher9419 unlikely as it will happen if the car has sat in the hot sun and has already failed before the car is started.
Excellent video John, the work done on your car is excellent and what a reasonable price, did you have the whole of the underside undersealed?
I have had my car rust proofed and undersealed by Southwest Rustproofing in Westbury Wiltshire with a product called Dinitrol, they also inject all the cavities and I'm extremely pleased with the work. I'm hoping it stands me in good stead for the future.
Hi David. No he just undersealed the rear arches for me. But my car was undersealed previously. (possibly 10 years ago!)
Might be about time i topped it all up
Hi David,I have my car booked in for Dinitrol treatment by the "Man to go to" here in N.Ireland he deals with vintage cars, tractors and the like apparently very thorough going to take afew days he is very busy which I am taking as a good sign and a nice chap to boot. I am reasurred by your remarks. regards Richard
How much did the undersealing cost you?
Wow. £1100
Now I’m starting to think it would be worth driving half way up the country to get my beasts bodywork done. Have spent about £15k so far and that’s all underneath and some bits inside and still have the top bodywork done. She’s all good to the top of the stone chip level.
I hate to be the critical one here but I wouldn't be entirely happy with that repair. The paint looks good (I understand the panels sometimes look like they don't match) - the boot looks fantastic.
However, obviously there is the problem that you pointed out with the stone chip, I noticed on the passenger side you can also see a vertical line about half a meter forward if the rear wheel arch which I guess is either the edge of the new stone chip or where the laquer hasn't been blended in. Also on that side you can see when the outside light reflects on the corner of that panel (where the stone chip meets the end of the wheel arch) that it is not flat. The drivers side looks the same but it's not obvious when looking at that part head on.
I'm a perfectionist though so for what you paid it is probably reasonable.
Thanks Huw.
The Stone chip finish doesnt worry me at all. But as always in my videos, I like to share everything I see, have trouble with or that others may have issues with.
The vertical line is a seam on the sill that is present on all X100's unless they have been actively de-seamed in this area. One of our subscribers (Gary Norris) has an amazing XK8 that has had this seam removed along with the seams running vertically below the tail lights.
Oh yeah I know the seam is there but this looks like it's in the paint (further back) when you moved the camera along you could see left of the line is gloss with the original stone chip and to the right of the line looks a bit flat.
Great video John Many thanks 👍
Glad you enjoyed it Steven👍
Looks like Glen did a good job… so are you going to tell us how much you loved the car…££££
£1,100 +VAT for the boot lid , two sill repairs tidy up the chassis leg
Looks like I found someone to do my XKR.
😁👍
Have you been tempted to buy an XKR to partner the 8?
If I had more money, i would have a real X100 and X150 parking problem😁. I would happily have an R as well. And A Coupe. And an Xk150 'hatchback'😁
I wonder what Glen thinks of the new Electric Porsche….I saw one and laughed…all that money and sounds more like a scalextrix than a Porsche…
Hi there. Could you tell me what to do with my remotes ? Neither of the 2 will work at all !!! I've changed the batteries on 1 remote no change . Access to the car was achieved by the drivers door by use of the key. The alarm sounded but all went quiet when i inserted the key in the ignition. The engine then started. The battery was fully charged as i just removed my CTEK charger before starting. The remote worked ok 6 wk's ago when i went to start it as the car is not used over winter.
Hi Andrew
Sounds like your remotes need re-coding to your car. I did a video on how to do that. Here is a link for your convenience.
ua-cam.com/video/VVnLZiAXA_U/v-deo.html
John I need some help. I just days ago got 1997 xk8 I am looking for the proper motor oil. I know I need 5w30 but the api code and acea spec A2 is outdated. Can you help.
As an amateur, I can see the wheel arch rust etc. How can you tell if a car has major rust, front and rear subframes etc? Is a ramp the only way?
You can get it up on stands with the wheels off and poke around aggressively with a long screwdriver on the rear chassis rails as shown, and the front ones behind the suspension. Floor pans also rot, usually seen beneath front footwell carpets - I had the plates under there cut off and found unknown rot in both footwells
Hi John, Glenn's bodywork was excellent and cost effective compare to East london, I have a question please, on my XK8 1998 I can't find the drain plug on the cooling syatem, do I have to remove the cover just under (3xbolt) the radiator or is it located in the engine block?
Cheers!
Right hand side of the radiator, facing backward to the engine. A plastic drain plug you can open with a big flat screwdriver.
Wow, XK hasn't got lockers, what a pity!
Hi Roman. If by lockers you mean locking wheel nuts then it has.
If you mean a locking diff, then it does not
@@ToTheGarage Yes, I meant locking wheel nuts. Good luck to XK!
Thanks mate👍
Didn't you see him put them on ! 🙈🥴👍
@@NoPooftersHereUK1234 I missed this moment when watching it for the first time.
Have you had to replace the Throttle Body
No. Mine has never given a problem on either of my XK8's Though I am aware that some experience issues
Restricted performance WARNING system too lean bank#2. Do you have any Secret tips. 3 Shops tried to fix, still no success.
Check the breather pipes connected to the cam covers. A hole in one of them could trigger that warning. as could a hole in the intake snorkle after the MAF. (Altough that would cause lean on both banks)
It could also be a bad intake manifold seal.
@@ToTheGarage Thanks a lot. Appreciate it :)
I had a lean condition in bank#2, which turned out to be a crack in the intake manifold.
Is the weather always that shitty over there in England?
Yes
You got some awesome videos,very well done.I live over here in New England and i inherited 2 of those xk8 convertible's .
That's a good day!! 🤣
😁
It's been snowing today over here in East Anglia!