Hello Kev, thanks for this video. The black little component soldered on the two cells on the center is simply a fuse, preventing overloading. Thanks for the video.
I was contemplating this when I stumbled onto your video. I use my 123 on digital pinball MPU's and sound boards and have for years. I actually have two 123's. One here at home and one in my toolbox at the shop. I was tired of using it plugged into the charger. The original pack batteries had crimp tabs and the new ones do not, (as I suspect Fluke got them custom made), I had a few issues putting fresh solder onto the exposed surfaces maybe due to my fear of using too much heat but with some good flux was able to get enough for wire attachment. So, after assembling the pack it started charging the batteries at 5.6VDC. It went up to 5.8VDC at the end. I left it for 12 hours while monitoring the voltage with one of those cheap Chinese 3 digit meters. After disconnecting the charger it showed 5.1VDC across the battery pack. The scope turned on right away and looks good. It is now under the battery refresh mode. Next week I will tackle the other one. Thanks for the video!
As I was editing the video I came to the assumption It was a most likley a thermal fuse but got sidetracked and it made it into the final edit. Good catch..
Hi. The equipment used is a Fluke 123 Model. The battery was completely discharged and I replaced the battery with a new Ni-cd, but the device does not turn on. The voltage is 5.3V, is there a problem with the temperature sensor or resistor attached to the battery?
Hello Kev, I have a question; do you notice any overvoltage on the recharge battery terminal from the Fluke? Lot of batterys on fluke seems to be over voltaged and that's create quick worn and it short battery.
if i don't install ncd -- can i install lion battery? do you think it will malfunction? 18650 lion 3000mah lion battery 2 pieces in parallel and 6000mah 3.7 volt Is this power good or too much?
Digikey has brand name NiCD batteries, but they're a bit more expensive, starting from around 4$ each... here's examples (filtered to show only SC size NiCD batteries): / short / pz7rn8 There's some there with solder tabs, making it easy to just solder wire between the tabs and not risk damage by spot welding or soldering directly to battery.
Hello there. I just replaced my Fluke 123 battery with a Chinese one. I did a full refresh (over 20 hours) and the unit is showing a low battery level (it seems to still work fine though). I Did a reset and that made no difference, Any ideas? I bought the unit second hand a few years ago and this is the third battery I have had; same thing with each one.
@@AA-en8gw I think mine was a Li-ion one. I have put this one to bed now. At the end of the day, it seemed to hold a charge for over an hour whilst switched on; this is probably as much as I would need. For additional requirements, I would run a power cable to the unit. Still, if anyone knows how to get the battery indicator to 'wake up' I would be interested to hear the solution.
You are better off just getting or making a supply for the scope itself so it can charge it. The charger for Fluke123 is pm8907/803. Ebay sells real and aftermarket. These are specs are for charger 15VDC 300mA center negative.
Hi.have a question.i have same scope now it's not turning on only sound speaker click.like relay sounds.please maybe you had something like my problem or ever heard about.thanks
Hello Kev, thanks for this video. The black little component soldered on the two cells on the center is simply a fuse, preventing overloading. Thanks for the video.
I was contemplating this when I stumbled onto your video. I use my 123 on digital pinball MPU's and sound boards and have for years. I actually have two 123's. One here at home and one in my toolbox at the shop. I was tired of using it plugged into the charger. The original pack batteries had crimp tabs and the new ones do not, (as I suspect Fluke got them custom made), I had a few issues putting fresh solder onto the exposed surfaces maybe due to my fear of using too much heat but with some good flux was able to get enough for wire attachment. So, after assembling the pack it started charging the batteries at 5.6VDC. It went up to 5.8VDC at the end. I left it for 12 hours while monitoring the voltage with one of those cheap Chinese 3 digit meters. After disconnecting the charger it showed 5.1VDC across the battery pack. The scope turned on right away and looks good. It is now under the battery refresh mode. Next week I will tackle the other one. Thanks for the video!
@4:00 that will be a thermal fuse, the batteries are in series and there is no load balancing.
As I was editing the video I came to the assumption It was a most likley a thermal fuse but got sidetracked and it made it into the final edit. Good catch..
All Right!
Kev is back!!!
Hi. The equipment used is a Fluke 123 Model. The battery was completely discharged and I replaced the battery with a new Ni-cd, but the device does not turn on. The voltage is 5.3V, is there a problem with the temperature sensor or resistor attached to the battery?
Hello Kev, I have a question; do you notice any overvoltage on the recharge battery terminal from the Fluke? Lot of batterys on fluke seems to be over voltaged and that's create quick worn and it short battery.
I have not noticed that.
that's ok thank you.
@@AIexanderHartdegen
Yep 6 Cell NImH 7.4V is overcharged with a 10.8V charge voltage on the Fluke 196.
@@aqib2000 that's what noticed the seller of a 196 to me. I had a doubt about that. Thanks to confirm that.
Hey man. Thanks for the video. What is the parameters of the resistor (1.2 Ohm but what power? 1/2W?) and thermistor?
if i don't install ncd -- can i install lion battery? do you think it will malfunction?
18650 lion 3000mah lion battery 2 pieces in parallel and 6000mah 3.7 volt Is this power good or too much?
Digikey has brand name NiCD batteries, but they're a bit more expensive, starting from around 4$ each... here's examples (filtered to show only SC size NiCD batteries): / short / pz7rn8
There's some there with solder tabs, making it easy to just solder wire between the tabs and not risk damage by spot welding or soldering directly to battery.
I have a 123 fluke, but the battery is damaged....how do I get an original battery... please help
Hello there. I just replaced my Fluke 123 battery with a Chinese one. I did a full refresh (over 20 hours) and the unit is showing a low battery level (it seems to still work fine though). I Did a reset and that made no difference, Any ideas? I bought the unit second hand a few years ago and this is the third battery I have had; same thing with each one.
I have the same problem !!! should we give a go to --> Li-ion ???
@@AA-en8gw I think mine was a Li-ion one. I have put this one to bed now. At the end of the day, it seemed to hold a charge for over an hour whilst switched on; this is probably as much as I would need. For additional requirements, I would run a power cable to the unit. Still, if anyone knows how to get the battery indicator to 'wake up' I would be interested to hear the solution.
Hello, I lost the charger so I was wondering how to charge the battery individualy. Do you know which cables and how much voltage should I choose?
You are better off just getting or making a supply for the scope itself so it can charge it. The charger for Fluke123 is pm8907/803. Ebay sells real and aftermarket. These are specs are for charger 15VDC 300mA center negative.
Hi.have a question.i have same scope now it's not turning on only sound speaker click.like relay sounds.please maybe you had something like my problem or ever heard about.thanks
Hold the lamp button down and the power button at the same time when powering on. This should reset the scope.
Or the battery is really dead and it will do strange stuff even when its plugged in.
@@The_Active_Region its doing the same thing with and without battery.i tried that reset trick but still nothing
Yea
Shazaam!
You been away for 5 moths man and you expect me to just jump in ant watch your videos like nothing happened? ...yeah ok sure :-)
Sorry, Hope you enjoy.
Don't know how I got here but cool
Las baterías es serie
какой то валенок, не может сообразить, как соединить 4 аккумулятора
1000's of those cells in old RC car racers piles of junk