Hi. Great video. We have this same panel installed in our new house but one of the motion sensors doesn't flash red. I'm guessing it's offline or faulty. How do I check this? Am I able to use a setting on the panel to reactivate/reset that sensor? Thanks
If the zone has been disabled, the sensor should still illuminate. I would check that the sensor has been wired to the + and - terminals in the panel and that they are connected at the PIR.
I have just installed an Optima Gen4 alarm system with an LCD RKP. I have found your videos to be very helpful but I am having trouble with setting the system on Programs 2 & 3. I have searched all your videos but could not find the answer. Basically when I set try to Part Set the system as shown on page 5 of User Guide I am unable to stop the exit tone by pressing the "P" button, and therefore cannot select Program 1 or 2. At the top of page 5 the first line says "If your installer has programmed your system for part set" etc. If this is the problem, how do I program the system for part set? I cannot find anything in the Engineer's Manual to explain how to do this. If you can help I would be very grateful. Keep up the good work. Cheers John
It's not something I have done, but it seems to start on page 34 of the engineers manual. I think they use different terminology in the engineers manual, they call them programs. So you'd need to program the alarm for program 2 or 3 (part set), then select that program when setting the alarm. It looks quite complicated, so you might have to read it a few times! Good luck with it ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman First of all let me thank you for taking the trouble to reply to me. I do understand how to part set the system according to the user manual page 5 and I have read it countless times. The problem is, I enter my code 0123, the exit beep starts, I then press (P) to stop the exit beeps so I can select Program 2, but the beeps don't stop, so it's not possible to select Program 2, and then after a few seconds the beeps continue and the system sets. The clue is in the first line of "How To Part Set The System", which is "If your installer has programmed your system for Part Set operation you can set certain zones of the system while others remain unset". The problem is that nowhere in either manual can I find instructions on how to program the system for Part Set operation. Page 34 as you mentioned, explains how to program the 3 programs with many different options, but the manuals don't show how to select them when setting the system.
Hi mate just got an accenta mini but can't for the life of me clear a Tamper Fault lockout on the lcd control panel. The spring inside the panel is fine and there is power to the system / new battery / in fact its a brand new unit. Any ideas? Cheers
I have a accenta g3 and I have followed your step by step demonstration but I keep getting a fault . I have a led which is labelled TA and it keeps flashing can u help thanks
That means there is a tamper fault, it will light up if the panel front is missing, or if one of the sensors has a tamper fault. If the front cover is on and you press the X button twice and the fault does not clear, you need to start looking at the tamper circuit. You can confirm it is the tamper circuit, by linking it out using a piece of wire between the two tamper terminals that have this symbol- [ (when turned 90 degrees to the left)
I purchased the Accenta 4 mini about five years ago but have just installed last week, thanks to all your videos which I found extremely helpful. On switching the main power on there is no light on the control panel. I have checked the power and this is getting to the control panel.As the back up battery is over five years old I decided to replaced it as well as replacing the fuses on the contro board. The power light is still off. Can you advise what the problem may be? Could the control panel be damaged and what checks can I do to confirm this. I don't want to purchase a replacement unit unless I know the one I have is damaged etc. Any advise would be really appreciated.
+ronnie norman I'm not sure what the exact problem is sorry, but if the light is not illuminating it sounds like a serious problem and may require a new board. Is there no noise or anything from it when powered up ?
Checked the existing fused spur and neutral wire was loose so now have power to the control panel. However a made an error by wiring the sound and comms the wrong way around on the control panel and even though I have corrected this the rkp fuse in the panel keeps blowing. Would the incorrect wiring cause the rkp to be damaged causing the fuse to keep blowing or could there be major damage to the Control panel. PIR's are all working.
+ronnie norman I'm not sure, sorry. I would have thought that the fuse would have blown to protect something!Have you tried doing a factory reset?It explains how to do it in the engineers manual.
Hi, tried factory reset but as soon as I connected positive lead to battery the rkp fuse blew again. Rechecked wiring to rkp and it is correct so not sure what the problem is.
+ronnie norman It might be worth completely un-wiring it from all sensors, remote keypads and the external sounder. Then when you power it up if the fuse still blows you know it's a panel fault.
Hi....great vid and great northern accent :-) I want to move the remote keypad: 1. Does it have a tamper switch that will sound the alarm if I remove it from the wall ? 2. If yes, will the P9999 code before removal, stop the alarm sounding ? 3. If yes, do I just press X to bring it out of engineering mode after I’ve re-fitted it ?
1. Yes 2. It depends on whether the engineering code has been changed. If it is the default code, then yes, you can just enter the engineers code first. Failing that just remove the cover and silence the alarm by inputting the user code. 3. Yes, but you might have to press it twice. Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you so much for these videos. I can’t Afford to pay anyone and found this cheap. Your videos mixed with a couple of google searches have seen me through (that and my first false ceiling a couple of years ago using your vid). The bell box wiring caught me out a bit... but otherwise all good, just slow going. Thank you again
Hi, i have just installed the optima compact alarm, can you tell me why i am not getting my outside sounder/strobe to sound? i have tested the cable from panel to sounder and it is fine. i have also tested for 12v supply to the sounder at the panel terminals but there is no 12v?
If for example we used two remote keypads, how are we going to program them? say for example we change the pin code, is it enough to program it from the nearest keypad attached to the alarm panel alone or the other one must be reprogrammed too? thank you, sir.
+john lagatic When you program the alarm you only program the actual alarm control panel itself so you only need to program it from any one of the remote-keypads, regardless of how many remotes are installed.Thanks for the comment
Hi, I'm having problem with an accenta 8 mini. The tamper is being triggered constantly and am having to punch in code and reset all the time. It was already fitted when house was bought at least 4 nearly 5 years now. Any thing I could do to solve problem?
It might be a faulty panel or a fault with the tamper circuit. You can eliminate the tamper circuit by opening the panel and inserting links in the tamper circuit. You can do this by inserting a small piece of wire to short out the tampers, they are shown in the panel like this turned 90 degrees- ] If you do that it will stop the tamper circuit from working, if the alarm no longer goes into tamper there is a problem somewhere on the tamper circuit.
Good video :) what's the normal method of powering down the system (for re-decorating ) open the panel, silence the tamper, turn off main power and disconnect the battery?? or is there a battery in the bell box that will sound the alarm? I assume all codes and programs stay as they were upon power up? any help is appreciated
Most bell boxes do contain batteries that will sound if all power is cut. Your best bet is to put the alarm in engineering mode by entering the engineers code as shown in the engineers manual. I think the default number is 9999, so press P then enter 9999 and the alarm will be in engineers mode. You can then remove any of the PIR's etc. and the alarm will not go into tamper.
Great video. Can you tell me, how to I lower the noise of the chimes on my Accenta 8 alarm panel? I've just moved into a house with a fully functioning Accenta 8 alarm, however, when the last person goes to bed at night when the alarm is set for night the panel makes really loud chiming noises to show its 'set', loud enough to wake the littles ones. Any help appreciated. Thanks!
I don't think you can reduce the volume (unless there is also an internal sounder- which could be disconnected). I think you can shorten the time the alarm chimes for, when it is being set by pressing the tick button (set)
Hi just wondering if u could help me out iv just installed this alarm system everything seems to work fine but at nighttime the keypad seems to beep every minute or so theres no fault showing on the alarm or anything always seems to be at night time just wondering what that could possible mean?
don't you have a video on how to program the alarm itself? we have an accenta optima and the problem is it doesn't go off at all when set and we haven't put in the code. help please... thanks
hi chez. i have watched all your vids related to the burglar alarm. i have bought a Honeywell mini g4 kit. The kit comprises of main panel, 1 LCD rkp, 2 door contacts and 4 pirs. i have a few questions please. can i run a spur off a double socket to power the fcu? the 2 door contacts front and back door of house can they be both wired together in zone 1? the 4 pirs should they be wired into separate zones? many thanks
+arfan jhangir Yes, you can take a spur from the double socket as long as you use 2.5mm twin core and earth leading to the fused connection unit, then 1.5mm to the alarm with a 5amp fuse installed in the FCU. Yes you can wire the front and rear door contacts to zone 1 as long as you wire them in series (not parallel), basically you make a loop using the 4 circuit wires. Yes you can then wire the 4 PIR's up to separate zones.
+Ultimate Handyman wow that was quick.the 1.5 to the alarm should it be twin and earth or flex? sorry if i am a a bit slow at understanding this by parallel do you mean i end up with two cables in the connection?
+arfan jhangir 1.5mm twin core and earth is preferred. Yes run both cables back to the alarm panel, then join one wire from each sensor together in the panel. Then put the other two wires into the separate normally closed terminals for the alarm circuit, this means that you have effectively made a loop, so no matter which door contact opens the circuit the alarm will trigger.
Every time I lose mains power the alarm goes off so I presume back up battery is dead. The alarm stays on even when power is restored. I have an ADE Accenta+ G4 system. Can anyone tell me a decent battery that is compatible to buy for my system? To be fair the back up battery lasted over 10 years, Not confident to fit myself but have a friend who is an electrician so keen to order asap.
Yes, it sounds like the battery is dead. The alarm will stay on (until the code is input), as it will think it is being tampered with. ua-cam.com/video/OKARJD0fmuA/v-deo.html Thanks for the comment 👍
I have the same alarm system in a rented property, the occupants changed the code and have now moved out without passing the code onto me. How do I reset the system and change the code. I removed the panel cover as I believe you have to short the circuit but this led to the alarm sounding without me being able to silence it. I have removed the battery and power source but the house is now not alarmed. Thanks
To default to factory settings: 1. Power down panel. 2. Remove wiring from SET output and PA input. 3. Fit shorting wire between SET and left-hand PA terminal. 4. Power up. 5. Wait for alarm to start. 6. Power down panel and then restore original wiring. Once you have done this the panel should default to factory settings. The engineers manual can be downloaded for free here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/honeywell-ade-optima-engineers-manual-t71762.html
Is there meant to be a U clip in each of the numbers not in use from 1 to 8.I have bought the same control panel only with the key pad on it.But from 1to 8 does not have a U clip in them,I can see yours do.
They used to ship them with the links in (U clip), but they no longer do this as you can disable the zones electronically when you program the alarm. I find it easier to link out any unused zones by inserting a small piece of wire between the two contacts ;-)
Hi, I have one of these systems with the LCD keypad. Many a times when I'm away on the weekends I set it and go away only to come back and find that the external strobes are blinking. at the keypad it says engineer reset required. the alarm is roughly 4 years old and it was inherited. this issue seems to be intermittent I think. What could be the possible cause? Thanks
I'd start by replacing the internal backup battery. There is a chance that it's no longer holding charge and if there is a power cut the alarm could be triggered.
Hi, Could you help please. My alarm was installed new 4 years ago - by the new homes builder. I've always had the same problem with 1 - Bell 2- Strobe and 3- Sounder as the manual calls them. When tested 1 is a loud external alarm for 3 seconds, 2 is the light and 3 just seems to be the internal alarm. Is this correct. Obviously with this set up therefore no sound can be heard externally after 3 seconds which I need to change. Can I do this or is something broken? Thank you so much in advance :-)
It looks like the external sounder might be faulty. When you put the alarm in the test mode you should be able to switch it on using the tick button, then switch it off using the X button. If it's going off itself after 3 seconds there is something not right.It might be a good idea to do a real "test" during the day (when most of your neighbours are at work) by setting the alarm then triggering an alarm condition by opening the front door etc. without inputting the code for the alarm. If the external sounder does not sound continuously until the alarm is silenced by inputting your code you have a fault- probably the external siren itself.
I've just installed this replacing a 20 year old accenta and it auto selected my zones but eont run as it says fault on landing, problem is it doesn't give me anything else to go on, pirs are all un moved its just the new control box
Try linking out the sensor on the landing by placing a wire between the two circuit terminals. If the problem goes away, the sensor is faulty. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@leejohnson197733 The two that are for that zone. There should be a mark that looks like this (turned 90 degrees to the right) ] That is where the two zone wires go.
I would imagine so. I remember reading about the terminals for connecting an auto dialler and it's made by the same company so should be compatible. Before buying it I would give them a call to check first.
I have the same alarm installed about 5 years ago. The battery backup has gone dead how do i change it ? can i just turn off the power and open the box change battery and power back on then user reset ?
If you know the engineers code, you can enter that to put the alarm into maintenance mode and then change the battery without turning off the electric first as this may make the external bell sounder sound. I believe the default engineers code is 9999 so it's worth trying that first. If that does not work you can switch off the electric to it and replace the battery that way, but be aware that the external sounder may sound.
I'm good thanks, I hope you are well! All the videos I have done on the Accenta G4 can be seen here- ua-cam.com/play/PLLV8cNgalvMnsatr3V3pYUqergDQtXmzM.html
Excellent. My house alarm Out side bell doesn't work. Light is ok battery is fine inside box alarm is working. Would u mind telling is anything wrong please
Sometimes they get water in them and some of the internal components stop working. In the last 5 years I have had to replace two outside bell boxes (different properties) as they no longer worked due to water getting on the circuitry.
When in engineers mode does it disable all the tamper switches? I need to move a pir to a different location so need to prevent tamper triggering? Thanks
Symbols are typically used so they can sell the same product in lots of different countries with different languages and so they don't need to make language specific models.
Yes, I know- but they could include a set of stickers saying what each symbol means. I made one myself using a Dymo label printer and stuck it on the remote. Thanks for the comment 👍
Ive got a Accenta G4 RKP alarm system and the code F131-01-111 keeps displaying on my panel along with a beeping every 3 seconds! I'm presuming I need to replace my back up battery and the company that installed it said they would sort it for £40 call out fee and £20 for the batterie replacement! thanks to your video I'm gonna do it my self and save some ££££ 👍🤗
I don't think there is a part number for it. I normally just get one along with the alarm. They are all different sizes, so if your alarm has a 1.2AH battery you just replace it like for like
+wolliollie It'll start to beep each time a button is pressed.They would have to know the alarm user number or the engineers code to be able to change any of the alarm settings.
But what if the keypad stopped working or was disabled so I couldn't set my alarm? would my alarm company know and notify me? Should we get a battery back up?
+wolliollie Is your alarm on a maintenance contract with the alarm company?If it in on a maintenance contract I would be surprised if it didn't already have a battery backup.
+wolliollie i think i know what your saying! It would go into a tamper alarm as it is being messed with and the alarm will go off to alert the house owner that someone is trying to alter the alarm. if it doesnt go into a tamper state then your have either not wired the tamper circuit in (its been linked out) or its faulty so you would need to call out an alarm engineer to service the alarm for you. Hope this is helpful and i hope you understand what i have said ;-) regard, FSS ;-)
Omit means that you can prevent a zone from working (not sure if you can omit zone 1 though, as that is the entry exit zone) But lets say you have a room covered by a PIR sensor and you want to put a dog in there for the night, but still want to set the alarm (say it is in zone 2), you can do so by omitting zone 2, the alarm will still work but nothing in zone 2 will activate the alarm. Thanks for the comment 👍
The reason why ADE changed the keypads text to symbols is quite simple to explain. This particular range of control panels is supplied to most European countries and changing the text on keypads for each country’s respective language was quite costly. Symbols are not language specific.
These bricks are actually quite tough, for non engineering bricks. Accy Nori bricks are a right pain to drill though - great bricks ;-) Thanks for the comment
Yeah the symbols are the worst idea ever.... the older way was so much better... It must have been the same genius who changed the cable colour from red and black to brown and blue.
I already have all the pir's,keypad,and bell box fitted for this make and model but no alarm panel as it was faulty when i moved in and had been removed. I can work out the door contact and keypad wires but i have 4 wires coming out the wall i cant trace without ripping floor boards up. Is there any way i can power up the 4 remaining cables to make the 3 pir's and bell box work so i know which wires which?
If you remove the cover from one of the PIR's and write down the wiring it is likely that they have all been wired using the same colours. Once you know the + and - for the PIR's you can wire each one up in the alarm panel to the + and - Volts and that will make the PIR illuminate.
Brilliant mate. All sorted. Followed it all the way through and the alarms working a treat. Have you got one for adding more pir's? Thanks again,awesome job.
Hi. Great video. We have this same panel installed in our new house but one of the motion sensors doesn't flash red. I'm guessing it's offline or faulty. How do I check this? Am I able to use a setting on the panel to reactivate/reset that sensor? Thanks
If the zone has been disabled, the sensor should still illuminate.
I would check that the sensor has been wired to the + and - terminals in the panel and that they are connected at the PIR.
I have just installed an Optima Gen4 alarm system with an LCD RKP. I have found your videos to be very helpful but I am having trouble with setting the system on Programs 2 & 3. I have searched all your videos but could not find the answer. Basically when I set try to Part Set the system as shown on page 5 of User Guide I am unable to stop the exit tone by pressing the "P" button, and therefore cannot select Program 1 or 2. At the top of page 5 the first line says "If your installer has programmed your system for part set" etc. If this is the problem, how do I program the system for part set? I cannot find anything in the Engineer's Manual to explain how to do this. If you can help I would be very grateful. Keep up the good work. Cheers John
It's not something I have done, but it seems to start on page 34 of the engineers manual.
I think they use different terminology in the engineers manual, they call them programs. So you'd need to program the alarm for program 2 or 3 (part set), then select that program when setting the alarm.
It looks quite complicated, so you might have to read it a few times!
Good luck with it ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman First of all let me thank you for taking the trouble to reply to me. I do understand how to part set the system according to the user manual page 5 and I have read it countless times. The problem is, I enter my code 0123, the exit beep starts, I then press (P) to stop the exit beeps so I can select Program 2, but the beeps don't stop, so it's not possible to select Program 2, and then after a few seconds the beeps continue and the system sets. The clue is in the first line of "How To Part Set The System", which is "If your installer has programmed your system for Part Set operation you can set certain zones of the system while others remain unset". The problem is that nowhere in either manual can I find instructions on how to program the system for Part Set operation. Page 34 as you mentioned, explains how to program the 3 programs with many different options, but the manuals don't show how to select them when setting the system.
Great video. What cable was used from the fused socket to the main control box ? Was it 1.5mm trin and earth or a flex ? Thanks
Thanks, I used 0.75mm flex but you can use twin core and earth.
Symbols are so that they dont have to make/buy a keypad for each language. Ease of manufacture and lower NRE. Cheers for a great channel.
Thanks for the comment
Hi mate just got an accenta mini but can't for the life of me clear a Tamper Fault lockout on the lcd control panel. The spring inside the panel is fine and there is power to the system / new battery / in fact its a brand new unit. Any ideas? Cheers
Have you tried linking out the tamper circuit in the panel?
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have a accenta g3 and I have followed your step by step demonstration but I keep getting a fault . I have a led which is labelled TA and it keeps flashing can u help thanks
That means there is a tamper fault, it will light up if the panel front is missing, or if one of the sensors has a tamper fault. If the front cover is on and you press the X button twice and the fault does not clear, you need to start looking at the tamper circuit.
You can confirm it is the tamper circuit, by linking it out using a piece of wire between the two tamper terminals that have this symbol- [ (when turned 90 degrees to the left)
I purchased the Accenta 4 mini about five years ago but have just installed last week, thanks to all your videos which I found extremely helpful. On switching the main power on there is no light on the control panel. I have checked the power and this is getting to the control panel.As the back up battery is over five years old I decided to replaced it as well as replacing the fuses on the contro board. The power light is still off. Can you advise what the problem may be? Could the control panel be damaged and what checks can I do to confirm this. I don't want to purchase a replacement unit unless I know the one I have is damaged etc. Any advise would be really appreciated.
+ronnie norman
I'm not sure what the exact problem is sorry, but if the light is not illuminating it sounds like a serious problem and may require a new board. Is there no noise or anything from it when powered up ?
Checked the existing fused spur and neutral wire was loose so now have power to the control panel. However a made an error by wiring the sound and comms the wrong way around on the control panel and even though I have corrected this the rkp fuse in the panel keeps blowing. Would the incorrect wiring cause the rkp to be damaged causing the fuse to keep blowing or could there be major damage to the Control panel. PIR's are all working.
+ronnie norman I'm not sure, sorry. I would have thought that the fuse would have blown to protect something!Have you tried doing a factory reset?It explains how to do it in the engineers manual.
Hi, tried factory reset but as soon as I connected positive lead to battery the rkp fuse blew again. Rechecked wiring to rkp and it is correct so not sure what the problem is.
+ronnie norman
It might be worth completely un-wiring it from all sensors, remote keypads and the external sounder. Then when you power it up if the fuse still blows you know it's a panel fault.
Hi....great vid and great northern accent :-) I want to move the remote keypad:
1. Does it have a tamper switch that will sound the alarm if I remove it from the wall ?
2. If yes, will the P9999 code before removal, stop the alarm sounding ?
3. If yes, do I just press X to bring it out of engineering mode after I’ve re-fitted it ?
1. Yes
2. It depends on whether the engineering code has been changed. If it is the default code, then yes, you can just enter the engineers code first. Failing that just remove the cover and silence the alarm by inputting the user code.
3. Yes, but you might have to press it twice.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you so much for these videos.
I can’t Afford to pay anyone and found this cheap.
Your videos mixed with a couple of google searches have seen me through (that and my first false ceiling a couple of years ago using your vid).
The bell box wiring caught me out a bit... but otherwise all good, just slow going.
Thank you again
I'm glad the videos help 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi,what kind of plastic pipe where you using to put wire through the wall.really good and clear understand of fitting this alarm.👍
I think I just used John Guest speedfit pipe (an offcut)
Thanks for the comment ;-)
the alarm has made princess holly cry
Hi, i have just installed the optima compact
alarm, can you tell me why i am not getting my outside sounder/strobe to sound? i have tested the cable from panel to sounder and it is fine. i have also tested for 12v supply to the sounder at the panel terminals but there is no 12v?
Have you checked the glass fuses on the circuit board in the main panel?
If for example we used two remote keypads, how are we going to program them? say for example we change the pin code, is it enough to program it from the nearest keypad attached to the alarm panel alone or the other one must be reprogrammed too? thank you, sir.
+john lagatic When you program the alarm you only program the actual alarm control panel itself so you only need to program it from any one of the remote-keypads, regardless of how many remotes are installed.Thanks for the comment
thank you so much again, Ultimate Handyman, sir!
Hi, I'm having problem with an accenta 8 mini. The tamper is being triggered constantly and am having to punch in code and reset all the time. It was already fitted when house was bought at least 4 nearly 5 years now. Any thing I could do to solve problem?
It might be a faulty panel or a fault with the tamper circuit.
You can eliminate the tamper circuit by opening the panel and inserting links in the tamper circuit. You can do this by inserting a small piece of wire to short out the tampers, they are shown in the panel like this turned 90 degrees- ]
If you do that it will stop the tamper circuit from working, if the alarm no longer goes into tamper there is a problem somewhere on the tamper circuit.
Good video :) what's the normal method of powering down the system (for re-decorating ) open the panel, silence the tamper, turn off main power and disconnect the battery?? or is there a battery in the bell box that will sound the alarm? I assume all codes and programs stay as they were upon power up? any help is appreciated
Most bell boxes do contain batteries that will sound if all power is cut.
Your best bet is to put the alarm in engineering mode by entering the engineers code as shown in the engineers manual. I think the default number is 9999, so press P then enter 9999 and the alarm will be in engineers mode. You can then remove any of the PIR's etc. and the alarm will not go into tamper.
Cheers bud will give it a try.
Great video. Can you tell me, how to I lower the noise of the chimes on my Accenta 8 alarm panel? I've just moved into a house with a fully functioning Accenta 8 alarm, however, when the last person goes to bed at night when the alarm is set for night the panel makes really loud chiming noises to show its 'set', loud enough to wake the littles ones. Any help appreciated. Thanks!
I don't think you can reduce the volume (unless there is also an internal sounder- which could be disconnected).
I think you can shorten the time the alarm chimes for, when it is being set by pressing the tick button (set)
I'm pretty sure there is an internal sounder adjustment you can play about with. A flat head terminal driver will be suitable to adjust it.
Hi,In you FCU box you use a 3amp fuse,would you use a high amp fuse the more PIR sensors you use and control panels you connect.
No, the 3A fuse was specified in the alarm manual- that should be fine even if you connect the maximum number of PIT's etc to the alarm.
Hi just wondering if u could help me out iv just installed this alarm system everything seems to work fine but at nighttime the keypad seems to beep every minute or so theres no fault showing on the alarm or anything always seems to be at night time just wondering what that could possible mean?
mars6394
I have no idea, sorry.
I have never heard of any panel doing this before!
Can a master blaster be fit in conjunction with this system ? Thanks
Sure- ua-cam.com/video/jeDe9IDaXy4/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
don't you have a video on how to program the alarm itself? we have an accenta optima and the problem is it doesn't go off at all when set and we haven't put in the code. help please... thanks
No, I don't have a video on that I'm afraid.
The manual should explain how to set and unset the alarm.
Hi
Thanks for this great video. My alarm's power red light start flashing I changed battery but still flashing can you help me with this plz.
Have you tried pressing the reset button twice?
It's the X in the middle of the other buttons.
@@ultimatehandyman thx for replied. Yes I have tried but still flashing
Do you know if it’s possible to add additional wireless PIR sensors to these?
I'm not sure, but would guess that the PIR's need to be wired.
Thanks for the comment
Great video. I just bought a texecom premier 24 alarm with odessy 3e bellbox
Nice 👍
hi chez. i have watched all your vids related to the burglar alarm. i have bought a Honeywell mini g4 kit. The kit comprises of main panel, 1 LCD rkp, 2 door contacts and 4 pirs. i have a few questions please. can i run a spur off a double socket to power the fcu? the 2 door contacts front and back door of house can they be both wired together in zone 1? the 4 pirs should they be wired into separate zones? many thanks
+arfan jhangir
Yes, you can take a spur from the double socket as long as you use 2.5mm twin core and earth leading to the fused connection unit, then 1.5mm to the alarm with a 5amp fuse installed in the FCU.
Yes you can wire the front and rear door contacts to zone 1 as long as you wire them in series (not parallel), basically you make a loop using the 4 circuit wires.
Yes you can then wire the 4 PIR's up to separate zones.
+Ultimate Handyman wow that was quick.the 1.5 to the alarm should it be twin and earth or flex? sorry if i am a a bit slow at understanding this by parallel do you mean i end up with two cables in the connection?
+arfan jhangir
1.5mm twin core and earth is preferred.
Yes run both cables back to the alarm panel, then join one wire from each sensor together in the panel. Then put the other two wires into the separate normally closed terminals for the alarm circuit, this means that you have effectively made a loop, so no matter which door contact opens the circuit the alarm will trigger.
Every time I lose mains power the alarm goes off so I presume back up battery is dead. The alarm stays on even when power is restored. I have an ADE Accenta+ G4 system. Can anyone tell me a decent battery that is compatible to buy for my system? To be fair the back up battery lasted over 10 years, Not confident to fit myself but have a friend who is an electrician so keen to order asap.
Yes, it sounds like the battery is dead. The alarm will stay on (until the code is input), as it will think it is being tampered with.
ua-cam.com/video/OKARJD0fmuA/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have the same alarm system in a rented property, the occupants changed the code and have now moved out without passing the code onto me. How do I reset the system and change the code. I removed the panel cover as I believe you have to short the circuit but this led to the alarm sounding without me being able to silence it. I have removed the battery and power source but the house is now not alarmed.
Thanks
To default to factory settings:
1. Power down panel.
2. Remove wiring from SET output and PA input.
3. Fit shorting wire between SET and left-hand PA terminal.
4. Power up.
5. Wait for alarm to start.
6. Power down panel and then restore original wiring.
Once you have done this the panel should default to factory settings.
The engineers manual can be downloaded for free here-
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/honeywell-ade-optima-engineers-manual-t71762.html
Is there meant to be a U clip in each of the numbers not in use from 1 to 8.I have bought the same control panel only with the key pad on it.But from 1to 8 does not have a U clip in them,I can see yours do.
They used to ship them with the links in (U clip), but they no longer do this as you can disable the zones electronically when you program the alarm.
I find it easier to link out any unused zones by inserting a small piece of wire between the two contacts ;-)
Hi, I have one of these systems with the LCD keypad. Many a times when I'm away on the weekends I set it and go away only to come back and find that the external strobes are blinking. at the keypad it says engineer reset required. the alarm is roughly 4 years old and it was inherited. this issue seems to be intermittent I think. What could be the possible cause? Thanks
I'd start by replacing the internal backup battery. There is a chance that it's no longer holding charge and if there is a power cut the alarm could be triggered.
Ok will try that first. Thanks
Hi, Could you help please.
My alarm was installed new 4 years ago - by the new homes builder. I've always had the same problem with 1 - Bell 2- Strobe and 3- Sounder as the manual calls them.
When tested 1 is a loud external alarm for 3 seconds, 2 is the light and 3 just seems to be the internal alarm. Is this correct. Obviously with this set up therefore no sound can be heard externally after 3 seconds which I need to change. Can I do this or is something broken?
Thank you so much in advance :-)
Is it the exact same alarm as the one in this video? If it is I'll check the manual for you later to see if I can see anything obvious.
+Ultimate Handyman yes it is. Thank you :-)
It looks like the external sounder might be faulty.
When you put the alarm in the test mode you should be able to switch it on using the tick button, then switch it off using the X button. If it's going off itself after 3 seconds there is something not right.It might be a good idea to do a real "test" during the day (when most of your neighbours are at work) by setting the alarm then triggering an alarm condition by opening the front door etc. without inputting the code for the alarm. If the external sounder does not sound continuously until the alarm is silenced by inputting your code you have a fault- probably the external siren itself.
Likely the fault... as I've triggered the alarm many a time! Thanks for your help.
You are welcome ;-)
I've just installed this replacing a 20 year old accenta and it auto selected my zones but eont run as it says fault on landing, problem is it doesn't give me anything else to go on, pirs are all un moved its just the new control box
Try linking out the sensor on the landing by placing a wire between the two circuit terminals. If the problem goes away, the sensor is faulty.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman ok but there are 5 connections, which 2 should link out?
@@leejohnson197733 The two that are for that zone. There should be a mark that looks like this (turned 90 degrees to the right) ]
That is where the two zone wires go.
Hi,Can a Honeywell ADE 8EP276-A UK Informa speech dialler be fitted to this alarm.
I would imagine so. I remember reading about the terminals for connecting an auto dialler and it's made by the same company so should be compatible. Before buying it I would give them a call to check first.
I have the same alarm installed about 5 years ago. The battery backup has gone dead how do i change it ? can i just turn off the power and open the box change battery and power back on then user reset ?
If you know the engineers code, you can enter that to put the alarm into maintenance mode and then change the battery without turning off the electric first as this may make the external bell sounder sound. I believe the default engineers code is 9999 so it's worth trying that first. If that does not work you can switch off the electric to it and replace the battery that way, but be aware that the external sounder may sound.
***** They are, but like any rechargeable battery they eventually fail and need replacing.
***** You are welcome ;-)
Asslam o alaikum
Hi
Sir i hope u well
Actually i want to learn how to install and configuration accenta security syestem
G4 accenta .
Please help ?
I'm good thanks, I hope you are well!
All the videos I have done on the Accenta G4 can be seen here-
ua-cam.com/play/PLLV8cNgalvMnsatr3V3pYUqergDQtXmzM.html
Excellent. My house alarm Out side bell doesn't work. Light is ok battery is fine inside box alarm is working. Would u mind telling is anything wrong please
Sometimes they get water in them and some of the internal components stop working.
In the last 5 years I have had to replace two outside bell boxes (different properties) as they no longer worked due to water getting on the circuitry.
+Ultimate Handyman thank you for your advice I appreciated
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Hi, Accenta are known for the outputs to stop working, if you still have a problem please let me know and we can discuss it
Hello, do you know the output specification of the transformer, as I need to replace the one in my G4 Mini and finding it hard to find online.
Sorry, I do not know.
It might tell you in the user manual?
What battery do you use for this particular system? Could you send me an amazon link if possible?
I think one of these will fit- fave.co/2H6Co6I
Thanks for the comment
Thank you! I'll watch through this series when I install mine!
People say the system are not good but I have one is pretty good
I have had a few of these over the years, they have always been fine ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman my mum’s intellisense was faulty we had it up for a long time but I took it out
When in engineers mode does it disable all the tamper switches? I need to move a pir to a different location so need to prevent tamper triggering? Thanks
Yes, if you put it into engineering mode it prevents the tamper circuit from working until it is taken out of engineering mode.
Ultimate Handyman Thank you!
You are welcome ;-)
Excellent and helpful series of videos
I'm glad they are helpful ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Whereabouts did you install your main alarm panel?
I installed it in the loft.
Thanks for the comment
Hi thanks for this great video how we can add the PIR sensor to the new Zone ???
This should help- ua-cam.com/video/Sb3y-66QDEk/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi is it normal for this alarm to have a buzzing noise coming from box when you connect power
No, that is not normal.
Ultimate Handyman thanks will get it sent back
Hello I want to be a self employed CCTV and alarm installer do I need any qualifications to do it
Not sure, sorry as I don't do it for a living.
I'm sure there will be some qualification that is specific to this type of thing.
Ultimate Handyman and how would you run power to the alarm box if there wasn't power where you where putting the main alarm box
You would have to run a cable to a suitable supply.
do you get the bell box the pir and door contacts in the kit aswell as the 2 panels
+Roy Kirkham
No, you have to buy all the components individually.
Thanks for the comment
Ok thanks for replying how much is the full set up likely to cost me then all in
RK 180 in another comment it said around £150 pound.
Symbols are typically used so they can sell the same product in lots of different countries with different languages and so they don't need to make language specific models.
Yes, I know- but they could include a set of stickers saying what each symbol means. I made one myself using a Dymo label printer and stuck it on the remote.
Thanks for the comment 👍
will these units take the microwave type sensors also
Yes, as far as I am aware.
I have bought a combination microwave/PIR but have not had time to install it yet.
ok thanks
Andy McSwift
You are welcome ;-)
Hi can you send me full installation link and how can I add more pir and door contact please
thanks
Door contact- ua-cam.com/video/44WvvZVreLo/v-deo.html
P.I.R ua-cam.com/video/Sb3y-66QDEk/v-deo.html
Ultimate Handyman
Thanks for send me link
But if I but more than 8 zone how can I wringing it
Hi
Does anyone know why i get ####### (hashtags on my G4 keypad) there is nothing on the internet about it
Not sure, I've checked the manual and can't see anything that helps in there!
@Harry Burrows
I think I bought it from cpc.co.uk
Thanks for sharing video!!
You have shared the very valuable How to install a burglar alarm. Keep sharing!!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Ive got a Accenta G4 RKP alarm system and the code F131-01-111 keeps displaying on my panel along with a beeping every 3 seconds! I'm presuming I need to replace my back up battery and the company that installed it said they would sort it for £40 call out fee and £20 for the batterie replacement! thanks to your video I'm gonna do it my self and save some ££££ 👍🤗
Pied Piper Of Bridlington I’m having the exact same problem! How was it resolved??
Great video! Hopefully will be getting one of these alarms soon.
Thealarmboy
Thanks for the comment
Hey pal? What the part number for the back up battery please?
I don't think there is a part number for it. I normally just get one along with the alarm.
They are all different sizes, so if your alarm has a 1.2AH battery you just replace it like for like
***** it should be the one you installed in the video... silly thing is my control box is located in a hard place....
how do you wire it to the mains power ?
ua-cam.com/video/47fkKdBjqvI/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
What happens if someone messes with the keypad while the alarm is unarmed?
+wolliollie It'll start to beep each time a button is pressed.They would have to know the alarm user number or the engineers code to be able to change any of the alarm settings.
But what if the keypad stopped working or was disabled so I couldn't set my alarm? would my alarm company know and notify me? Should we get a battery back up?
+wolliollie Is your alarm on a maintenance contract with the alarm company?If it in on a maintenance contract I would be surprised if it didn't already have a battery backup.
+wolliollie i think i know what your saying!
It would go into a tamper alarm as it is being messed with and the alarm will go off to alert the house owner that someone is trying to alter the alarm.
if it doesnt go into a tamper state then your have either not wired the tamper circuit in (its been linked out) or its faulty so you would need to call out an alarm engineer to service the alarm for you.
Hope this is helpful and i hope you understand what i have said ;-)
regard, FSS ;-)
great video's m8 just installed one of these alarms all working just need to sus out all the settings
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you for your sound advice.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Great videos mate was just would I need to use EOL resistors in a domestic premises.
John
It depends which alarm you are installing, some require resistors and some don't. It should say in the installation manual
***** How much is this alarm system you are installing in the video????
james murphy
I think it was about £150 for everything.
Not bad that for a full alarm system. By the way all of your videos are very good I like em
james murphy
Thanks ;-)
I'll give that a try and let you know how it went.... Thanks
what is OMIT for
Omit means that you can prevent a zone from working (not sure if you can omit zone 1 though, as that is the entry exit zone)
But lets say you have a room covered by a PIR sensor and you want to put a dog in there for the night, but still want to set the alarm (say it is in zone 2), you can do so by omitting zone 2, the alarm will still work but nothing in zone 2 will activate the alarm.
Thanks for the comment 👍
How much was that kit
+Keelin Black
It was about £50
fave.co/1RJCo0b
The reason why ADE changed the keypads text to symbols is quite simple to explain. This particular range of control panels is supplied to most European countries and changing the text on keypads for each country’s respective language was quite costly. Symbols are not language specific.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate handyman is it easy to feed wires through walls and the loft
how to change the standard code 0123 to something else?
Page 10 of this manual explains how to change the code-
www.ultimatehandyman.org/manuals/alarms/2.pdf
@@ultimatehandyman thank you. Sorted it now
OMG, those bricks are soft.....can't do that with our Accringtons....{:-) good vid as per usual....
These bricks are actually quite tough, for non engineering bricks.
Accy Nori bricks are a right pain to drill though - great bricks ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Great project
Thanks for the comment ;-)
great video thx.
Thanks for the comment
Yeah the symbols are the worst idea ever.... the older way was so much better... It must have been the same genius who changed the cable colour from red and black to brown and blue.
100% mate thanks
You are welcome, Thanks for the comment ;-)
It's the chime setting look on the manual
This video jumps from screwing it to a wall, to installing a battery with the keypad already installed..
Mars6394
I already have all the pir's,keypad,and bell box fitted for this make and model but no alarm panel as it was faulty when i moved in and had been removed. I can work out the door contact and keypad wires but i have 4 wires coming out the wall i cant trace without ripping floor boards up. Is there any way i can power up the 4 remaining cables to make the 3 pir's and bell box work so i know which wires which?
If you remove the cover from one of the PIR's and write down the wiring it is likely that they have all been wired using the same colours. Once you know the + and - for the PIR's you can wire each one up in the alarm panel to the + and - Volts and that will make the PIR illuminate.
Brilliant mate. All sorted. Followed it all the way through and the alarms working a treat. Have you got one for adding more pir's? Thanks again,awesome job.