Rob, You probably don't want to mount an oil cooler with both lines pointing down, or air will get trapped at the top where it has nowhere to go. You might want to mount it on its side with the inlet at the bottom, or with both inlets pointing upward, so they can self-bleed. I know its a packaging problem, but with both lines pointing down, it basically wont do much.
Rob, please avoid welding galvanized bolts, the fumes are toxic and all those boiling metals destroy your gas coverage, if you have to weld galvanized stuff grind the top layer away or something like that. All those sparks are not ideal, normally with tig welding you have minimal fumes and no sparks, great work man, keep up the good vids :) greeting from germany
It's more important to ensure the area behind the coolers has an opening to exit the air than it is feeding it. A good rule of thumb is to have the exit 1.5 times the opening feeding the cooler. Creating a low pressure area behind the cooler is ideal
Challenge is wheel wells are typically one of the highest pressure areas of the car at speed. It will help, but venting in front of the wheel or down through the underbody would be best
Wont matter. He's going to have too much cooling as it is, there's a good chance he'll have the oil running well under its ideal temp. He needs an oil thermostat bypass like the stock rx7 has
You need to get you a swamp cooler for your shop! It keeps a shop that normally is 100+ a day it will bring the temp down to mid 80s or lower , just a piece of advice rob
@@jkbaker01 that will work too , but modern swamp coolers keeps the paperor cardboard soaked and with the fan blowing is less maintain to keep up with other then 25 gallon of water aday to fill
@@6181green air is lighter than oil and will rise to the topp of the cooler, the drain is in te bottom, he'll have to twist and turn it around at least, i don't know if that will hold when the engine is running tho
Could you use an AN check valve to prevent the oil flowing back to the pan? Those oil coolers seem like they could cause a headache with the hoses at the bottom, hopefully I'm wrong about that.
You should go to radiator cooler first then air to oil coolers last. If your air to oil coolers are efficient enough to get the oil temp below rad temp you are reducing their efficiency by raising the temp in the rad on the last pass. Also get some adel clamps to keep those hoses off the brake lines, etc. If you are cheap, use wide zip ties.
Very valid point. Why heat it back up after cooling it. Use the rad as a stage 1 to a oil cooler to the other. And it puts cooler oil back in which would lower coolant temp because it's not at coolant temp.
Just make one lmao, get some caster wheels with brakes or just straight up table feet, buy some steel square tubing and weld up a frame then wack a wooden countertop on
From personal experience... The loose braided stainless steel lines will slowly saw thru all kinds of softer stuff overtime plastic, aluminum, and so forth. Food for thought.
Thanks for this. I looked through the comments to see who else would say something like that. Mounting anything too near each other will rub holes into the materials, then he'll have leaky coolers and an excuse to make another video. lol
Did a very good clean job Rob. I think it would be best to bypass the actual radiator. That way the coolant temps won't affect the oil temps. But nice install.
Rob, The only way this will work is if you go full Bad Obsession Motorsport and add a bleed screw to the top (technically the bottom) of that oil cooler.
Could have cut those lines with a 20$ grinder lmao. And I would not run them coolers like that. Put the lines on one side with one at top and one at bottom. It's a decent chance of air bubbles getting in them that way.
I just got my oil cooler for the Wankelghini !! Hope to install it this week. Thanks everyone for the great info. I’ll be mounting mine sideways to prevent air from being trapped. Mine also has an electric fan mounted to it. It will help keep my Supercharged Rotary cool 😎
Here in Canada with our winters, if you don't run your radiator cooler last in the circuit you can over cool your oil and create issues. With the rad cooler last in the circuit the oil can be reheated by the engine coolant if it got too cold.
surely you'd want to open the wheel arch lining up to allow air to travel through the oil cooler ensuring its efficiency etc & maybe adding a fine mesh to the wheel arch lining to make sure no gravel has a chance of being flicked up "if reversing hard etc.. driving forwards wouldn't be an issue!" I've only mentioned this as the coolers are right at the back of the fitted area so, theirs not much of a ventilation system. regarding the coolers surely it would've been best to have them mounted with the ports to the side, allowing the oil to easily fill & exit the coolers, hopefully the return port into the sump is above the height of the coolers or you'll have air in the system everytime the cars shut-down/restarted etc
@@psychedeliccodes4233 Yes theres a hole around 2-3" Dia for the cooling duct towards the inside edge of the coolers, for the coolers to work effectively you need a good amount of airflow (a single small hole isn't much to run home to mamma about) no-one said about mounting the coolers upside down "their universal" realistically the biggest issue he needs to ensure would be ensuring the line feeds in/out don't get snagged (if the pipes are at the bottom) bad idea you also potentially allow any contaminants/sludge to build up in the low areas potentially blocking the line feeds) lastly to ensure the coolers don't empty fully or just half etc back into the sump.... the only real way to prevent that is by ensuring the oil return point is higher then the coolers themselves, gravity prevent any further issues
Hey there I just wanted to say your welding is perfectly excellent awesome and equal penetration will be very strong and definitely not going anywhere, I've been doing it as a Tool maker by trade/mechanic (brother owns the auto repair business/workshop) for 40 years, you can worry about the artist's point of view later but excellent job and the way you speak is very easy to follow great show thank you 🤗
Hello rob, i met you at the car show at the mn fair grounds on saturday. cant belive how you act the exact same in real life vs in youtube. makes it so much more fun to watch your vids!
Hi, In such situation it's most advantageous to use an oil to water cooler to not increase the oil system volume that much. Also the heat exchange element would go between the engine block and the oil filter with an integrated thermostat so that it only works when the oil is getting actually hot. There are such adapters with a thermostat also to pure single loop oil coolers, and that also would be better than an always open loop. The engine will be in pain for a long time before it warms up with the setup you have, and a rotary's compression and durability critically depends on reaching operating temperature as quick as possible. Basically that is crucial for every type of engine.
vapour lock/airlock call it whatever you want, if the pressure of the air exceeds the pressure of the oil at any point,(when the car is off and restarted) the air will not allow any oil to pass through.. I agree with the side mount someone stated earlier in the comments
Rob when your welding you need to leave the torch over the weld for a couple seconds after finishing don't pull the torch away. Also keep the trigger held for 1 second after you've finished putting rod. You'll notice the welds will be much cleaner. Give it a shot
Hey Rob, I enjoy watching the progress of your Rotary Corvette. I had a similar unbearable heat situation for my garage shop. May I suggest you check out the options for Commercial Ductless Mini Splits. A heat pump outside runs Freon into an inside wall mounted unit which is very efficient and works wonders to cool your work space. Keeping in mind insulating helps where you can. I installed one and it makes a very pleasant place to work. The system also works to heat a space if you need to. Keep on making great videos my friend.
If you're dead set on mounting with the lines pointing down, might want to look in to getting a 1way check valve and maybe an aux oil pump. Check valve to keep oil from backflowing, and aux pump to make sure you got sufficient pressure since you have such a long oil system.
You need airflow to go through the coolers wich can be achieved only if there is air going IN and OUT of them. There is nothing to get air out there,just a wall behind them. They would be more efficient in front of the radiator/intercooler than where they are.
as someone who has made many many braided lines and used many many different methods, bandsaw is by far the worst lol the absolute BEST way to do it. is ziptie and cutting disc. tie the ziptie right up against your line where you want to cut, get it as tight as you can get. then just cut right on your line, since your throwing the zip tie away anyway, you can cut into it slightly in order to get the cleanest cut possible. when youre done it will look like it was cut with a laser. not a single strand out of place. really makes using braided lines much easier and stress free.
oh and i forgot to mention, its cheap. next time just buy a 40 dollar grinder, some cutting discs and some zip ties from harbor freight and youll have your lines done better and quicker lol
Take them old ass headlights out and mount some air scoops, so when you need ultimate cooling, turn on the lights and flip up your air intakes for your oil coolers....you could also mount some really thin LED lights in there as well...kinda like the ones a lot of 240sx drifters use.
Rob is the automotive Dad we all need. He may not know how to do something, but he'll figure it out and then show us. "That's not going anywhere" and all.
Rob those welds are definitely looking better. I have to say though welding something that will hold a piece you should really weld both sides. It was hard to tell, but you only showed welding 1 side on both parts to the cars bracket. If you weld only 1 side the piece will break off towards the weld (the way gravity happens to be pulling on it). Something like that might not immediately be an issue, but over time with weight on it and hitting bumps ect it may become an issue.
Previous failure or something The wasn't any failed bearing and had a diff shop rebuild the lsd section with their own version Basically it's been right though without any failures being found
Grind and clean the surfaces completely before welding. Also don't put your fittings on the bottom, you will help have problems. Love the uploads my man!
Rob you could put a check valve inline if oil did backup into the oil pan. A simple ball like check valve probably wouldn't restrict oil flow. Just have to find one that would work for the line you have or connect up to the cooler
They do fit in there really well. I have to agree with the others, you need to mount them so one fitting is higher than the other to get the air out of the system. Just rotate them 90 degrees so the inlet and outlet of each point to each other. Trim the inner fender liner and you will be good to go.
Earls do a great quality billet oil thermostat. You should consider using that to keep your oil temps getting too cold. I use a 48 row cooler in my 700hp gtr, and without it when crusing oil temps would drop below 120 degrees F. I think the water-oil heat exchanger in the radiator is probably for power steering too, not so much for oil. GTR's run block mounted water-oil heat exchangers from factory and in low performance situations they are OK. But on the track when Oil temps are in the 260 degree range, the oil boils the water and you end up with gas pockets in the cooling system that mess with everything.
Rob, saw Fast n' Loud yesterday, The buyer of his Scout was a really rich guy from Amherst Ohio... I am thinking the kind of rich that gets your Corvette delivered to the hall of fame.
On top of the oil coolers dril a small hole to bleed the air out then tig weld a nut then tred in a bolt with a coper washer to seal it good if you don’t bleed the air with get stuck
If you are worried about too much drain back which if you mounted them correctly anyways add an electric oil pump to circulate the oil prior to engine start up
Make your life way easier and get some Radioflyer fixed headlights. It'll open up the area a lot, drop some pounds on the front, put out way more light, and look way better. They're costly though. Guess they're already in though, and it's more stealthy this way.
Hey Rob, after you tape line really tight use your dremel with metal cutting disc to make a clean cut. It would be cool if you made a video trying different ways and figure out what works best!
You think it's hot there you should come home and feel the heat and humidity we had last week. The PYOP event at Milan was the night after a 96 degree day!
Rob, from my experience with competition Porsche 911 cars, you may need some additional work on air ducting to and from the coolers. Unless you can get a large volume of cold air to the coolers and then duct the hot air away from the coolers, they are very inefficient. Often folks fit a 72 row cooler in the front valance/splitter of their 911 but unless they cut into the front luggage compartment floor and weld a hot air extraction duct in (Elephant Racing), the cooler gives little benefit.
Cut hose by electrical taping over where you're going to cut, then use an angle grinder. I've used this method with both stainless as you used and nylon covered stainless braid. It helps by not having strands fly off, but by also keeping the steel/nylon & steel tidy for when you slip fittings over where your cut is.
One more suggestion, you need to get more air out than going in. Heated air expands some so cut some exit holes at least 2x bigger, area-wise, than your inlet size! Google will tell you how to figure out the area of a circle....don't double the hole size!
You should cut a bit more out of where the brake duct is behind the cooler so the air escapes and u can build a shroud from the bumper to the whole oil coller
I would suggest aluminum shrouding. Otherwise the air will take the path of least resistance, around the heat exchangers, not through. The wall behind the heat exchangers certain will not help , if you shroud and direct the air through, it will save you a lot of problems.
Not to be a hater of pop up headlights, but you should probably get rid of them for more space to see where to mount those oil coolers ( hopefully not upside down )
There is actually a problem with over cooling your engine. You can get it to a point where it doesn't reach operating temperature or takes too long to get to operating temperature. Thats why most factory oil coolers on cars have a thermostat that opens after the engine has warmed up. If you look at the E46 M3 oil filter housing they have a build in thermostat to route the oil to the cooler once the engine is warmed up. All M cars above 2002 have a oil cooler thermostat.
There's a few people mentioning air lock for setting up the coolers. Have you also considered using a Accusump so you will have enough oil pressure on start and high cornering? Not as good as a dry sump but for a one off it will work.
I’m sure this comment is getting annoying, but it would be awesome if you took the turbo intake up over the middle of the radiator and intercooler to get the cold air from before it goes through the heat exchangers. Added bonus, corvette guys will get the nod to the corvette LS intake.
Hi Rob, love your work, but you need to be careful with stainless steel braided lines with respect to what they come in to contact with. With a vibrating engine (even a smoooth as silk rotary) they’ll cut through aluminium or plastic (and brake lines) like butter if they’re in loose contact.
Buy scotchbrite surface cleaning abrasive pads for a 90° die grinder they work great for cleaning surfaces if you are trying to prep for tig a small dremel will not get you very good results
Maybe if he upgrade it to a 4 rotor and bigger turbo the gearing on the vette require good amount of hp and tq hence why its was mated to an LS from factory
The ears will break due to vibrations if the coolers are not mounted on vibration rubber dampers. You should wash the hoses and fittings before installation to avoid getting rubber and steel wire in the engine.
cutting those lines with an angle grinder and a thin disc, would result in a cleaner cut. i had to shorten my oil cooler lines and had the best cuts with an angle grinder.
*Rob after parking the 4 rotor in the garage*
“That’s not going anywhere”
Rob,
You probably don't want to mount an oil cooler with both lines pointing down, or air will get trapped at the top where it has nowhere to go.
You might want to mount it on its side with the inlet at the bottom, or with both inlets pointing upward, so they can self-bleed. I know its a packaging problem, but with both lines pointing down, it basically wont do much.
Soo true... someone scipped pysics class hahaha
yeah also id run to the main rad first then to the oil only coolers or your just going to heat the cooled oil up to the engine water temp
@@speckbaron11 Uh.. OK I'll let this one slide
@@speckbaron11 Someone skipped english class. hahaha
@@ryboodle im from austria so fuck up
Robs corvette is the reason Chevy places the engine in the back now..
Jay Bo next thing you know rob is gonna be rotory swapping a C8 corvette
The Rotary in the vet is behind the front axle so it is front mid-engine.
More space for oil coolers
Hi Hi yeah but gotta keep it stock for atleast a month, then swap it with a 5 rotor
@@ethanjones4678 the factory ls is technically front mid. The entire engine is behind the front axle
Rob, please avoid welding galvanized bolts, the fumes are toxic and all those boiling metals destroy your gas coverage, if you have to weld galvanized stuff grind the top layer away or something like that. All those sparks are not ideal, normally with tig welding you have minimal fumes and no sparks, great work man, keep up the good vids :) greeting from germany
Came here to say this. We just want you to stay safe Rob!!
YouAreWhatYouEet just don’t breathe it in, drink some milk if your concerned with argon poisoning. Grind off where you’ll weld and he’ll be fine
For real Rob, you keep shoving your face right into those zinc fumes
Maigo Bob welding galvanized bolts not zinc
@@xtune5731 Yeah and a glass of vodka an hour will protect you from radiation 🤣 Argon aint the problem here...
Make sure there is room for airflow behind the cooler...
exactly my thought as well
He could cut out the plastic inner fender but you need a little louvered panel that blocks stuff from the tires from going back inside the holes.
It's more important to ensure the area behind the coolers has an opening to exit the air than it is feeding it. A good rule of thumb is to have the exit 1.5 times the opening feeding the cooler. Creating a low pressure area behind the cooler is ideal
Challenge is wheel wells are typically one of the highest pressure areas of the car at speed. It will help, but venting in front of the wheel or down through the underbody would be best
Wont matter. He's going to have too much cooling as it is, there's a good chance he'll have the oil running well under its ideal temp. He needs an oil thermostat bypass like the stock rx7 has
You need to get you a swamp cooler for your shop! It keeps a shop that normally is 100+ a day it will bring the temp down to mid 80s or lower , just a piece of advice rob
He needs coolers filled with ice and fans lol
@@jkbaker01 that will work too , but modern swamp coolers keeps the paperor cardboard soaked and with the fan blowing is less maintain to keep up with other then 25 gallon of water aday to fill
@@jkbaker01 Need coolers filled with Ice and Beer*, or Soda in my case.
So on today's episode of Rob dahm, we weld gal bolts and create an air trap in our oil system
Fuck he's an idiot
He's an entertainer who loves cars and seems successful at it.
Rotary in vette says it all
Do not mount coolers like that, you will get an air lock!
it will work, just not ideal.
How will it airlock if it's a pressurized system? I figured the oil would just push the air out
@@6181green air is lighter than oil and will rise to the topp of the cooler, the drain is in te bottom, he'll have to twist and turn it around at least, i don't know if that will hold when the engine is running tho
Yotahead 420 top of cooler will be air, lower tubes will transfer all the oil, until all air has been transferes out as bubbles in the oil.
Factory rx7 oil coolers are mounted this way ..
Could you use an AN check valve to prevent the oil flowing back to the pan? Those oil coolers seem like they could cause a headache with the hoses at the bottom, hopefully I'm wrong about that.
Probably should vent the inner fender liners behind the oil coolers. No need to deadhead hot air behind them
This!
Getting the torch out too soon, leave the torch with the purging on two or three seconds and wait till the puddle cools a bit.
And remember to let the air escape from the oil coolers ,it’s gotta go somewhere
You should go to radiator cooler first then air to oil coolers last. If your air to oil coolers are efficient enough to get the oil temp below rad temp you are reducing their efficiency by raising the temp in the rad on the last pass. Also get some adel clamps to keep those hoses off the brake lines, etc. If you are cheap, use wide zip ties.
Very valid point. Why heat it back up after cooling it. Use the rad as a stage 1 to a oil cooler to the other. And it puts cooler oil back in which would lower coolant temp because it's not at coolant temp.
The 4 Rotor isn’t going anywhere aswell 😂
oh no you took my joke :D
Somebody please sponsor daddy with a workbench
UwU
Unsettled Tom.
dude can afford one, or two, or even make his own....
@@BrutalFates youtubers prefer sponsors so they can use their resources on content. I suppose a video of building a workbench would be good
Just make one lmao, get some caster wheels with brakes or just straight up table feet, buy some steel square tubing and weld up a frame then wack a wooden countertop on
From personal experience... The loose braided stainless steel lines will slowly saw thru all kinds of softer stuff overtime plastic, aluminum, and so forth. Food for thought.
Thanks for this. I looked through the comments to see who else would say something like that. Mounting anything too near each other will rub holes into the materials, then he'll have leaky coolers and an excuse to make another video. lol
Did a very good clean job Rob. I think it would be best to bypass the actual radiator. That way the coolant temps won't affect the oil temps. But nice install.
Rob, The only way this will work is if you go full Bad Obsession Motorsport and add a bleed screw to the top (technically the bottom) of that oil cooler.
Could have cut those lines with a 20$ grinder lmao. And I would not run them coolers like that. Put the lines on one side with one at top and one at bottom. It's a decent chance of air bubbles getting in them that way.
With a diamond cutting wheel though, the abrasive ones will get the iron oxide down the hose and into the motor.
I just got my oil cooler for the Wankelghini !! Hope to install it this week. Thanks everyone for the great info. I’ll be mounting mine sideways to prevent air from being trapped. Mine also has an electric fan mounted to it. It will help keep my Supercharged Rotary cool 😎
Here in Canada with our winters, if you don't run your radiator cooler last in the circuit you can over cool your oil and create issues. With the rad cooler last in the circuit the oil can be reheated by the engine coolant if it got too cold.
surely you'd want to open the wheel arch lining up to allow air to travel through the oil cooler ensuring its efficiency etc & maybe adding a fine mesh to the wheel arch lining to make sure no gravel has a chance of being flicked up
"if reversing hard etc.. driving forwards wouldn't be an issue!"
I've only mentioned this as the coolers are right at the back of the fitted area so, theirs not much of a ventilation system.
regarding the coolers surely it would've been best to have them mounted with the ports to the side, allowing the oil to easily fill & exit the coolers, hopefully the return port into the sump is above the height of the coolers or you'll have air in the system everytime the cars shut-down/restarted etc
@@psychedeliccodes4233 Yes theres a hole around 2-3" Dia for the cooling duct towards the inside edge of the coolers, for the coolers to work effectively you need a good amount of airflow (a single small hole isn't much to run home to mamma about)
no-one said about mounting the coolers upside down "their universal" realistically the biggest issue he needs to ensure would be ensuring the line feeds in/out don't get snagged (if the pipes are at the bottom) bad idea you also potentially allow any contaminants/sludge to build up in the low areas potentially blocking the line feeds) lastly to ensure the coolers don't empty fully or just half etc back into the sump....
the only real way to prevent that is by ensuring the oil return point is higher then the coolers themselves, gravity prevent any further issues
You should make a shirt saying that's not going anywhere 🤣
Love watching you use channel locks backwards I tell my apprentice that almost every day.
Hey there I just wanted to say your welding is perfectly excellent awesome and equal penetration will be very strong and definitely not going anywhere, I've been doing it as a Tool maker by trade/mechanic (brother owns the auto repair business/workshop) for 40 years, you can worry about the artist's point of view later but excellent job and the way you speak is very easy to follow great show thank you 🤗
Hello rob, i met you at the car show at the mn fair grounds on saturday. cant belive how you act the exact same in real life vs in youtube. makes it so much more fun to watch your vids!
Hi,
In such situation it's most advantageous to use an oil to water cooler to not increase the oil system volume that much. Also the heat exchange element would go between the engine block and the oil filter with an integrated thermostat so that it only works when the oil is getting actually hot. There are such adapters with a thermostat also to pure single loop oil coolers, and that also would be better than an always open loop. The engine will be in pain for a long time before it warms up with the setup you have, and a rotary's compression and durability critically depends on reaching operating temperature as quick as possible. Basically that is crucial for every type of engine.
vapour lock/airlock call it whatever you want, if the pressure of the air exceeds the pressure of the oil at any point,(when the car is off and restarted) the air will not allow any oil to pass through.. I agree with the side mount someone stated earlier in the comments
Rob when your welding you need to leave the torch over the weld for a couple seconds after finishing don't pull the torch away. Also keep the trigger held for 1 second after you've finished putting rod. You'll notice the welds will be much cleaner. Give it a shot
I really admire how thorough you are, you give great tutorials and you teach very Well! I know this car will run well
Hey Rob, I enjoy watching the progress of your Rotary Corvette. I had a similar unbearable heat situation for my garage shop. May I suggest you check out the options for Commercial Ductless Mini Splits. A heat pump outside runs Freon into an inside wall mounted unit which is very efficient and works wonders to cool your work space. Keeping in mind insulating helps where you can. I installed one and it makes a very pleasant place to work. The system also works to heat a space if you need to. Keep on making great videos my friend.
If you're dead set on mounting with the lines pointing down, might want to look in to getting a 1way check valve and maybe an aux oil pump. Check valve to keep oil from backflowing, and aux pump to make sure you got sufficient pressure since you have such a long oil system.
thanks for the video Rob and crew, anyone who uploads such high quality show instructions is a gem.
You need airflow to go through the coolers wich can be achieved only if there is air going IN and OUT of them.
There is nothing to get air out there,just a wall behind them.
They would be more efficient in front of the radiator/intercooler than where they are.
as someone who has made many many braided lines and used many many different methods, bandsaw is by far the worst lol
the absolute BEST way to do it. is ziptie and cutting disc.
tie the ziptie right up against your line where you want to cut, get it as tight as you can get. then just cut right on your line, since your throwing the zip tie away anyway, you can cut into it slightly in order to get the cleanest cut possible. when youre done it will look like it was cut with a laser. not a single strand out of place. really makes using braided lines much easier and stress free.
oh and i forgot to mention, its cheap. next time just buy a 40 dollar grinder, some cutting discs and some zip ties from harbor freight and youll have your lines done better and quicker lol
have fun teaching yourself to weld it's super rewarding
Take them old ass headlights out and mount some air scoops, so when you need ultimate cooling, turn on the lights and flip up your air intakes for your oil coolers....you could also mount some really thin LED lights in there as well...kinda like the ones a lot of 240sx drifters use.
Ben Whitney no
Rob is the automotive Dad we all need. He may not know how to do something, but he'll figure it out and then show us. "That's not going anywhere" and all.
Whenever I work on a car I always think what will rob do ... then I don’t do it
The guys a knob rotary in a vette
Rob those welds are definitely looking better. I have to say though welding something that will hold a piece you should really weld both sides. It was hard to tell, but you only showed welding 1 side on both parts to the cars bracket. If you weld only 1 side the piece will break off towards the weld (the way gravity happens to be pulling on it). Something like that might not immediately be an issue, but over time with weight on it and hitting bumps ect it may become an issue.
this welding is dope. those bolts are zinc coated. you need to give it a mean grind or wire wheel back before welding.
still waiting to find out where those chunks of metal from the diff came from...
Previous failure or something
The wasn't any failed bearing and had a diff shop rebuild the lsd section with their own version
Basically it's been right though without any failures being found
Grind and clean the surfaces completely before welding. Also don't put your fittings on the bottom, you will help have problems. Love the uploads my man!
Rob you could put a check valve inline if oil did backup into the oil pan. A simple ball like check valve probably wouldn't restrict oil flow. Just have to find one that would work for the line you have or connect up to the cooler
I had to look away when he was cutting that PTFE line. If the blade had slipped it would have gone right into his thumb. Great content!!
They do fit in there really well. I have to agree with the others, you need to mount them so one fitting is higher than the other to get the air out of the system. Just rotate them 90 degrees so the inlet and outlet of each point to each other. Trim the inner fender liner and you will be good to go.
Earls do a great quality billet oil thermostat. You should consider using that to keep your oil temps getting too cold. I use a 48 row cooler in my 700hp gtr, and without it when crusing oil temps would drop below 120 degrees F.
I think the water-oil heat exchanger in the radiator is probably for power steering too, not so much for oil. GTR's run block mounted water-oil heat exchangers from factory and in low performance situations they are OK. But on the track when Oil temps are in the 260 degree range, the oil boils the water and you end up with gas pockets in the cooling system that mess with everything.
Rob, saw Fast n' Loud yesterday, The buyer of his Scout was a really rich guy from Amherst Ohio... I am thinking the kind of rich that gets your Corvette delivered to the hall of fame.
On top of the oil coolers dril a small hole to bleed the air out then tig weld a nut then tred in a bolt with a coper washer to seal it good if you don’t bleed the air with get stuck
Could also put a check valve in to keep oil from draining back to the pain when there is no pressure
If you are worried about too much drain back which if you mounted them correctly anyways add an electric oil pump to circulate the oil prior to engine start up
Make your life way easier and get some Radioflyer fixed headlights. It'll open up the area a lot, drop some pounds on the front, put out way more light, and look way better. They're costly though. Guess they're already in though, and it's more stealthy this way.
Damn Rob, those oil coolers are badass. Planning on doing something similar in my 911 later this year.
Kill work Rob. Proud to see the fab work being not only functional but quality.
Get some sleep Dahm. I want to see you live past 40
Rob you gotta grind your metals before you weld them, ideally wax and grease remover too, but grind them to remove surface oxidation and crap
Hey Rob, after you tape line really tight use your dremel with metal cutting disc to make a clean cut. It would be cool if you made a video trying different ways and figure out what works best!
Love this build man! Clean install on the oil coolers btw
Every video is enjoying Thanks for the joy
You think it's hot there you should come home and feel the heat and humidity we had last week. The PYOP event at Milan was the night after a 96 degree day!
Rob, from my experience with competition Porsche 911 cars, you may need some additional work on air ducting to and from the coolers. Unless you can get a large volume of cold air to the coolers and then duct the hot air away from the coolers, they are very inefficient. Often folks fit a 72 row cooler in the front valance/splitter of their 911 but unless they cut into the front luggage compartment floor and weld a hot air extraction duct in (Elephant Racing), the cooler gives little benefit.
Oil coolers FTW! I have one that I’ve been waiting for some downtime to install in my drift car👌🏻
Cut hose by electrical taping over where you're going to cut, then use an angle grinder.
I've used this method with both stainless as you used and nylon covered stainless braid.
It helps by not having strands fly off, but by also keeping the steel/nylon & steel tidy for when you slip fittings over where your cut is.
if you needed a little better base for the vice you could use some old bolts to bolt it to an old brake rotor, i have that on my bench currently.
Good job rob👍👍👍
One more suggestion, you need to get more air out than going in. Heated air expands some so cut some exit holes at least 2x bigger, area-wise, than your inlet size! Google will tell you how to figure out the area of a circle....don't double the hole size!
You should cut a bit more out of where the brake duct is behind the cooler so the air escapes and u can build a shroud from the bumper to the whole oil coller
Wow this video isnt going anywhere
Add a remote oil filter with higher in/outlets to control the drain back.
Point inlet and outlet up, so you won't get problems with airlock and oil won't drain back to the oil pan. Just stay in the cooler.
I would suggest aluminum shrouding. Otherwise the air will take the path of least resistance, around the heat exchangers, not through. The wall behind the heat exchangers certain will not help , if you shroud and direct the air through, it will save you a lot of problems.
Finish the 4 rotor first
On Abel's Flame Spitting RX7 Hoonigan video - I'm sure he said he ran WaterOil cooler to stabilize temperatures between liquids
If u can mount upside down (pipes down, u can turn the right way up)
Be careful welding galvanized bolts! The fumes are toxic as hell.
i literally have welding like dat for a year,galvanized ghutter upside down..n yeah i can assure u will directly get sick after 10min
Damn man, hopefully you're okay after that.
Not to be a hater of pop up headlights, but you should probably get rid of them for more space to see where to mount those oil coolers ( hopefully not upside down )
There is actually a problem with over cooling your engine. You can get it to a point where it doesn't reach operating temperature or takes too long to get to operating temperature. Thats why most factory oil coolers on cars have a thermostat that opens after the engine has warmed up. If you look at the E46 M3 oil filter housing they have a build in thermostat to route the oil to the cooler once the engine is warmed up. All M cars above 2002 have a oil cooler thermostat.
Finish the 4 rotor!
Love your vids Rob! Keep the rotary content pumping 🤙🏾
There's a few people mentioning air lock for setting up the coolers. Have you also considered using a Accusump so you will have enough oil pressure on start and high cornering? Not as good as a dry sump but for a one off it will work.
I look forward to next episode when you redo this.
I’m sure this comment is getting annoying, but it would be awesome if you took the turbo intake up over the middle of the radiator and intercooler to get the cold air from before it goes through the heat exchangers. Added bonus, corvette guys will get the nod to the corvette LS intake.
Don't worry Rob I'm in the south suburbs of Chicago I was feeling that heat all week with you!
You just need to put a check valve on oil return to engine line. I believe with 1 single check it would prevent most drain back.
0:37 I saw what you did there "pretty dahm good"
You could have just bought the vibrant hand shears for cutting braided line for cheaper. But at least you have a band saw now.
Hi Rob, love your work, but you need to be careful with stainless steel braided lines with respect to what they come in to contact with. With a vibrating engine (even a smoooth as silk rotary) they’ll cut through aluminium or plastic (and brake lines) like butter if they’re in loose contact.
Buy scotchbrite surface cleaning abrasive pads for a 90° die grinder they work great for cleaning surfaces if you are trying to prep for tig a small dremel will not get you very good results
can we finally get some 10s in a rotary corvette?
I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for that.
Maybe if he upgrade it to a 4 rotor and bigger turbo the gearing on the vette require good amount of hp and tq hence why its was mated to an LS from factory
@@kxlucifer nah theres 2 Rotors doing 6s in the quarter mile 10 seconds on this should be easy once he's done.
You can use an angle grinder to cut the lines.
Hi Rob, please keep going
The ears will break due to vibrations if the coolers are not mounted on vibration rubber dampers. You should wash the hoses and fittings before installation to avoid getting rubber and steel wire in the engine.
Could you not use a inline electric oil pump to build pressure and flow before the engine starts
cutting those lines with an angle grinder and a thin disc, would result in a cleaner cut. i had to shorten my oil cooler lines and had the best cuts with an angle grinder.
It's really ironic that Holley is helping you with the Rotaryvette, but that just shows how good they are!
Could you change the headlights to the fixed position ones.
Can’t wait for the next episode.. I’m not going anywhere!
Get a cool boss a/c like garrett.. They might even sponsor you!
just a tip make your brackets out of cardboard, makes everything easy to measure and cut.
Gotta start over and make this a mid-engine rotary...