Hay, another very in-depth video for the Ariens users. I am looking forward to your review of the poly skids. At least I know your view of the poly skids will be an honest and unbiased one. You seem to be a very honest and upfront person. From the videos of yours I have watched, OldSoulMillennial fits you perfectly. As I am writing this comment, it is 4 above with a wind chill of 19 below. We didn't get much snow from this storm, but the wind and cold temperatures are pretty dramatic. I live in southeastern Michigan about 40 miles north of Detroit. I was hoping to try out my new Toro Power Max HD 1232, but there is not enough snow from this storm. In fact, with the strong winds most of the ground has barely any snow cover at all. By the end of this coming week, it is supposed to be in the mid-forties. Talking about wild swings in the weather? Toro makes a 0w30 full synthetic snow blower oil that they recommend for their HD models after the five-hour brake in period has been reached. I think I will try that when the piston rings have been seated. From what I have read It has good reviews on cold starts in frigid conditions. May you and your family have a blessed and safe winter.
When trick people use to keep gas from leaking out in the service position is they actually put a plastic bag in between the top something you can do to prevent the gas from leaking out in the service position. Remove gas cap can and place flat Ziploc bag on top of the fill hole and then screw gas cap on as normal. For people with older snow blowers particularly ones with a Tecumseh engine you won't have a spot to put a wrench on the oil drain tube while I'm screwing a cap. For those engines just use vise grips to hold the drain tube still while I'm screwing the cap. You shouldn't need a lot of clamping force.
You need to slide that right side axle shaft off the inner shaft and lube that also. Otherwise it will seize and your differential will not work correctly.
Nice video, thanks for posting. Just some minor nits to pick. I don't see what the point would be to put a grease fitting on the wheel hub as it fits over the key so that the wheel hub rotates in a fixed relationship to the keyed shaft. There's not need to lubricate with grease the shaft except to reduce rusting. So some problems with terminology. @9:45 the loose piece is the key, not the keyway. The keyway is the slot in the shaft into which you place the key. There's no such thing as a "keyway slot". It's a key that fits in a keyway.
The reason to lubricate the wheel hub is to keep it from rusting so bad that the wheel can not be pulled off the shaft. It is true that they rotate together so no lubrication is needed for that. The lubrication it to prevent the the inter and outer shafts from fusing together with rust.
Very nice. You are probably a guy who also knows to correctly name what everyone calls a "worm gear" as just a "worm." And the gear that the worm rides on is the worm gear! :-)
That inside looks quite similar to a kinda old silver Craftsman 5/24? tracked blower I once had. Wondering if Ariens mad Craftsman or did somebody make both? Something I got educated on was that some/most/all of these blowers are designed to split in half fairly easily. The front blower section splits from the rear power section. Either completely or something of a hinged split. Makes for easy access to belts and bearings.
Cover that friction disc so a glob of grease doesn't fall on it while you slather things up. And be careful not to get any on the rubber friction wheel either. Friction between the wheel and disc engages the drive wheels. Accidental lubrication won't do it any favors.
Very informative video one of the best instructed video I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thank you very much for your time. I appreciate you. You, did a great job explaining. 👍🏾
It doesn't matter when it comes to the axle shafts. Maybe if you're in the super cold like around the arctic circle, but any grease should be good for us here in the lower 48. Any grease is better than no grease.
@@shadetree6981 Wrong. This style of rubber wheel and platter drive does not like heavy grease on the sliding shaft bracket. The older and rustier that shaft becomes, the more finicky it gets. Then it won't shift speeds properly.
I've go the same Snow Blower. Just took both wheels off grease the axels. Noticed that only one side had a C clip. Is there supposed to be a C clip on both sides? Thanks!
@@animalbarrieThe purpose of the c-clip is to hold the right drive shaft against the left side. You should then slide them apart, and put on a big shmear of anti-seize and reassemble. I use a mixture of marine grade anti-seize and high quality grease on both axle shafts. I also put a glob of grease on the axle bearings. As for the front, you should remove the shear pins, and after you pump in the shmoo from the zerk fittings, spin the auger blades a half dozen or so times to distribute the grease all along the auger shaft. Then either replace the shear pins (they're dirt cheap) or if the old ones are still like new, put them back in but don't reef them down too tight.
Thanks for the great video, I followed step by step. I only had the large axle washer on the right side of the machine, none on the left side. I only had the “C” clip on the right side, none on the left side. Is this correct? This is how the machine came from the factory three years ago. Also had a fair amount of fine and small pieces of black belt wear in the bottom access cover, is this normal after three winters of use?
good video but...i just repaired a ariens 927 LE do to the fact they neglected to check the gearbox oil. $250.00 oops. just saying. Still a good video.
PLEASE be safe using any snow blower! If it gets clogged with ice TURN OFF the machine BEFORE trying to clear it. A guy my ex husband used to work with lost 3 fingers trying to clear stuck ice and the other guy behind the snow blower didn’t realize and hit the gas! Absolutely horrifying and traumatizing for everyone on the scene. They could only save the thumb. My husband (at the time) had to reach in and get the fingers to put them on ice to try and save them.
Nice video. I like to use motorcycle chain lube. It won’t fling off the chain and end up on the friction disc.
nice job, just bought a used Ariens and this is great information, thank you!
Hay, another very in-depth video for the Ariens users. I am looking forward to your review of the poly skids. At least I know your view of the poly skids will be an honest and unbiased one. You seem to be a very honest and upfront person. From the videos of yours I have watched, OldSoulMillennial fits you perfectly. As I am writing this comment, it is 4 above with a wind chill of 19 below. We didn't get much snow from this storm, but the wind and cold temperatures are pretty dramatic. I live in southeastern Michigan about 40 miles north of Detroit. I was hoping to try out my new Toro Power Max HD 1232, but there is not enough snow from this storm. In fact, with the strong winds most of the ground has barely any snow cover at all. By the end of this coming week, it is supposed to be in the mid-forties. Talking about wild swings in the weather? Toro makes a 0w30 full synthetic snow blower oil that they recommend for their HD models after the five-hour brake in period has been reached. I think I will try that when the piston rings have been seated. From what I have read It has good reviews on cold starts in frigid conditions. May you and your family have a blessed and safe winter.
When trick people use to keep gas from leaking out in the service position is they actually put a plastic bag in between the top something you can do to prevent the gas from leaking out in the service position. Remove gas cap can and place flat Ziploc bag on top of the fill hole and then screw gas cap on as normal. For people with older snow blowers particularly ones with a Tecumseh engine you won't have a spot to put a wrench on the oil drain tube while I'm screwing a cap. For those engines just use vise grips to hold the drain tube still while I'm screwing the cap. You shouldn't need a lot of clamping force.
You need to slide that right side axle shaft off the inner shaft and lube that also. Otherwise it will seize and your differential will not work correctly.
Nice video, thanks for posting. Just some minor nits to pick. I don't see what the point would be to put a grease fitting on the wheel hub as it fits over the key so that the wheel hub rotates in a fixed relationship to the keyed shaft. There's not need to lubricate with grease the shaft except to reduce rusting. So some problems with terminology. @9:45 the loose piece is the key, not the keyway. The keyway is the slot in the shaft into which you place the key. There's no such thing as a "keyway slot". It's a key that fits in a keyway.
The reason to lubricate the wheel hub is to keep it from rusting so bad that the wheel can not be pulled off the shaft. It is true that they rotate together so no lubrication is needed for that. The lubrication it to prevent the the inter and outer shafts from fusing together with rust.
Very nice. You are probably a guy who also knows to correctly name what everyone calls a "worm gear" as just a "worm." And the gear that the worm rides on is the worm gear! :-)
@@anthonyc1883 Sadly, you are correct.
That inside looks quite similar to a kinda old silver Craftsman 5/24? tracked blower I once had. Wondering if Ariens mad Craftsman or did somebody make both?
Something I got educated on was that some/most/all of these blowers are designed to split in half fairly easily. The front blower section splits from the rear power section. Either completely or something of a hinged split.
Makes for easy access to belts and bearings.
Spilling oil on the machine may look messy but it does delay rust!
Cover that friction disc so a glob of grease doesn't fall on it while you slather things up. And be careful not to get any on the rubber friction wheel either. Friction between the wheel and disc engages the drive wheels. Accidental lubrication won't do it any favors.
Nice video, wondering why use high temp grease on a snow blower?
It's what I had on the shelf
Very informative video one of the best instructed video I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thank you very much for your time. I appreciate you. You, did a great job explaining. 👍🏾
Great video for a new Ariens owner
Thanks 👍
good coat of car wax on all metal surfaces helps protect also and spay silicone prevents snow sticking.
Great, leveling the machine is what I need to do to solve my problem! Thanks!
Happy to help!
I think you are supposed to oil the gears. not grease on there according to the manual. Nice video!
Great instruction. Thank you.
You need low temp grease.
GOOD CALL, he did say HIGH temp INCORRECT
It doesn't matter when it comes to the axle shafts. Maybe if you're in the super cold like around the arctic circle, but any grease should be good for us here in the lower 48. Any grease is better than no grease.
@@shadetree6981 Wrong. This style of rubber wheel and platter drive does not like heavy grease on the sliding shaft bracket. The older and rustier that shaft becomes, the more finicky it gets. Then it won't shift speeds properly.
Awesome video! Thanks you helped me out a alot
7 inches spacer thick???? Those space seem very thin 😮
I know you did this video a while ago but it is excellent! Thanks so much!
I've go the same Snow Blower. Just took both wheels off grease the axels. Noticed that only one side had a C clip. Is there supposed to be a C clip on both sides? Thanks!
Only right side, same as zerk, C-clip on mine.
@@steveanglea2465- thanks. Looked at schematic online after posting and confirmed.
@@animalbarrieThe purpose of the c-clip is to hold the right drive shaft against the left side. You should then slide them apart, and put on a big shmear of anti-seize and reassemble. I use a mixture of marine grade anti-seize and high quality grease on both axle shafts. I also put a glob of grease on the axle bearings. As for the front, you should remove the shear pins, and after you pump in the shmoo from the zerk fittings, spin the auger blades a half dozen or so times to distribute the grease all along the auger shaft. Then either replace the shear pins (they're dirt cheap) or if the old ones are still like new, put them back in but don't reef them down too tight.
great video very helpful
very nice video. you made it look easy.
Thanks for the great video, I followed step by step.
I only had the large axle washer on the right side of the machine, none on the left side.
I only had the “C” clip on the right side, none on the left side.
Is this correct? This is how the machine came from the factory three years ago.
Also had a fair amount of fine and small pieces of black belt wear in the bottom access cover, is this normal after three winters of use?
What do you think of the Ariens 520 ?
Very helpful! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
good video but...i just repaired a ariens 927 LE do to the fact they neglected to check the gearbox oil. $250.00 oops. just saying. Still a good video.
It's pronounced as "Erin's" despite its spelling. Kind of like how Boeke is pronounced as "Bakey", or how Poehlein is pronounced as "Payline".
Nice. And Stihl is pronounced "steel."
Thanks for doing that.
Thank you!
The key fell out. They keyway, also called a key seat, is what the key fits into.
Service position makes this all less painful.
I found that when I tilt the machine into the service position, the machine leaked engine oil. This may be ok if you drain the engine oil prior.
PLEASE be safe using any snow blower! If it gets clogged with ice TURN OFF the machine BEFORE trying to clear it. A guy my ex husband used to work with lost 3 fingers trying to clear stuck ice and the other guy behind the snow blower didn’t realize and hit the gas! Absolutely horrifying and traumatizing for everyone on the scene. They could only save the thumb. My husband (at the time) had to reach in and get the fingers to put them on ice to try and save them.
Yea im making the move to electric 😅 awesome video tutorial thank you