Triumph TR4 - Smiths/Jaeger Classic Gauge Calibration | Roundtail Restoration

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  • Опубліковано 16 вер 2024

КОМЕНТАРІ • 17

  • @barry6274
    @barry6274 6 місяців тому +1

    That's really interesting, I had no idea they were adjustable. Thanks for another lesson in working with the electronics of these cars.

    • @roundtailrestoration
      @roundtailrestoration  6 місяців тому

      Thanks, Barry. It was a fun little project. Very simple design that is obviously quite robust.

  • @ericpfiffner5615
    @ericpfiffner5615 6 місяців тому

    Decade boxes rock! I have some nice vintage ones at work

    • @roundtailrestoration
      @roundtailrestoration  6 місяців тому

      We had a really good one on the boat, calibrated to 0.01 ohms. Turns out they want to be able to accurately measure temperature in the reactor for some reason...

  • @MrMikeyspfx
    @MrMikeyspfx 6 місяців тому

    Good information and you explained it very well

  • @HenrysGarage
    @HenrysGarage 6 місяців тому +2

    Great video. When my MGB is full, the indicator only shows around 3/4. I've been assuming it was the tank float needed replacing (or the indicator itself) and hadn't realised they're adjustable. I might have to take a look

    • @roundtailrestoration
      @roundtailrestoration  6 місяців тому

      Thanks! I have to look into the float sender. I think it may be adjustable as well so it may still be your float. I believe that Part 2 of the Gentlemen's guide will have some info.

  • @Laurent-wp7cq
    @Laurent-wp7cq 6 місяців тому

    Very useful Chris, thanks! I’m struggling with the temp gauge, i tried 2 sensors one reads high, the other way too high, so i will adjust the gauge using your guidance.

  • @DavesTR4A
    @DavesTR4A 6 місяців тому

    Hi Chris,
    Hi Chris,
    As I was watching your excellent gauge adjustment video I noticed that you were using a bench top power supply to run your test. The original style voltage stabilizer actually produces an oscillating output, not a constant 10VDC.
    I would suggest that you remove the voltage stabilizer from you Spitfire wire that between your bench top supply and the load to get a more realistic supply voltage.
    If you are interested, I make a rebuilt voltage stabilizer using customer supplied voltage stabilizers.
    I spent about a year developing it and have sold over 100 so far with zero returns.
    I have a few videos of my voltage stabilizer on my UA-cam channel DavesTR4A if you are interested.
    Great videos Chris!
    Dave

    • @roundtailrestoration
      @roundtailrestoration  6 місяців тому

      Good point, Dave. I didn't think about that old school regulator giving a variable output. I think I still have the stabilizer on the 4's harness, so I'll grab that and see if I see any difference. I do know you remake the old regulators. It's on my list to send you one to rebuild for me! But, I didn't know you had a video, so I'll check that out. Thanks, Dave and thanks for watching!

    • @jarodofficer
      @jarodofficer 3 місяці тому +1

      And I assume you would want to set the power supply to feed a typical on-the-road voltage, like 13.5v, so the stabilizer will actually be working and oscillating.

    • @roundtailrestoration
      @roundtailrestoration  3 місяці тому

      @@jarodofficer Yes, that's what I did. Seemed to work.

  • @specter578
    @specter578 3 місяці тому

    Hi Chris. Do you have any videos or links to the process to dismantle and repair a Smith Jaeger speedometer for these spitfires?

    • @roundtailrestoration
      @roundtailrestoration  3 місяці тому +1

      I don't have any video links, but when I re-did my Spitfire's speedo I used this document: obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf
      It's pretty good and goes into the different styles. You can probably find a video, but I don't have any to recommend. Good luck!

    • @specter578
      @specter578 3 місяці тому +1

      @@roundtailrestoration thank you very much!