HOW TO PREVENT CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS FROM BREAKING WHEN REMOVING.
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- Опубліковано 22 кві 2020
- Toyota 1.8 liter engines
GM 3.5 liter head bolts
Toyota 2.4 liter engines
Chevy trailblazer 4.2 head bolt removal.
This video will help you not break your head bolts when removing them.
It’s one of the scariest parts of removing cylinder heads. If a bolt breaks inside the block; you have a lot more work to do.
Toyota Prius
Head gasket - Авто та транспорт
My Grandfather, who worked in a Belfast engineering company, taught me that trick 50 years ago, it's great for helping to release and bolt or stud.....
I have been working on cars, for a living years ago, since 1971. This is the first time I have been the "shock the threads" technique to prevent snapping head (or other) bolts. Luckily I have never snapped a head bolt over all these years, and now it is not likely I ever will. I will be sharing this technique with others. It makes so much sense. Many thanks
Thanks I was sweatin head bolts trying to get them loose and I know #1 would have been a disaster if it wasn't for your video so thanks again!
Excellent video. Saved a major headache (2016 Kia Sorento 3.3l)
Thanks guys that was a lot of help. I appreciate you guys posting this.
my man you're a car God!! my grandpa swore to the heavens that he invented that technique
Wish I'd watched this about an hour and a half ago, darnit.
👍👍👍👍 These little tricks make all the difference 👍
Man, that's sick!!! I guess both from the engine perspective which was my first thought... and I guess great method. The exhaust manifold bolts are what get's me nervous. I've got the Dodge Ram 2001 and I'm riggin for now with custom leak clamp'age to seal where a chunk of gasket went by by. Guessing the Toyota engine's aren't such a bad design. The 99 Ford F150 was I've heard a no go for most when I called around asking about advice for the Ram. I need to check under the Ram's valve covers since I wonder what the leak over the years has done with the specs underneath with the ghetto furnace cement and stainless steel zip ties few attempts prior to seal. Anyways, Thanks for sharing!
Very informative, thank you
You guys are the Prius masters!!! Try to find out what type of chocolate the owner is using for engine oil haha! Thanks for all you do. Stay safe out there guys.
Good job guys
Replacing cylinder head studs on an 83 1.9L waterboxer VW. Two started out fine but are really stuck on the last few threads. The bolts are so long I'm really worried about snapping one off and creating a much greater issue.
I'm going to try this, send as though it should still be effective.
Very well said
excellent!
Mineral oil in itself is not the problem. The problem is poor oil changing interval and even worse, those Quick Lube shops who perhaps don't even change the oil or the filter or use the cheapest possible oil quality. A quality mineral oil like Castrol should be fine when replacing it regularly. I do use synthetic on my car to extend the oil change intervals. However, the tapping idea is invaluable for stuck bolts situations. Another tip is never work after driving in rain, wet bolts will get real stuck when removing them next time - such as suspension bolts.
I’m really happy that I came across this video before getting started. What is your torque wrench set to?
Those go back in at 36ft/lb.
Great video, but I didn't see the same thing when I removed my prius head bolts. No matter how many times I banged on the head bolt with hammer, they were stubbornly locked. I had to use breaker bar with large pipe as extention to force them. No sign of "springiness" as shown in the video. Eventually all the bolts came out intact, but they were incredibly difficult to loosen. It took maximum strength I could muster on 1/2 inch breaker bar with pipe extension. The engine was clean without any sludge as only synthetic oil was used on this engine.
I worked on a 2016 Kia Sorento 3.3l. Had a head bolt wouldn't budge with a 3ft breaker bar and a 3 ft pipe. I beat on it, tried to loosen & heard a pop. Tighten down. Hit it some more. Tried to loosen, 2 pops. Tighten and repeated the process until it came out. Whole procedure took 20-30 min
valuable info right here thanks guys I WILL SUBSCRIBE b/c of this wow
Im about to take the head off a 09 corolla motor. This definitely helps
I am changing a head gasket on a riding lawn mower engine. I removed all of the bolts on the head except one that just wont come loose. I loosened the bolts in a circular pattern instead of a criss cross pattern. This may have been a mistake. If I "shock the threads" with a hammer on the one bolt that is stuck is there a chance of warping the aluminum heads ? I have seen people heat up the bolt. Will this heat warp the aluminum heads ?
Thanks
This happens to me on the same type of engine and the same exact bolt location? It is a 2012 Lexus CT200H. What wrong with this type of head bolt? It is the same situation….
What is it with mineral that causes the bolts to seize?
iron bolt in aluminum head...... causes a chemical reaction
also they are simply REALLY tight....tight things are tight
What tool are you using to give you that click sound or is this the bolt making that sound?
Pretty sure that's the bolt. They make that sound when they're torqued down tight and start to give way when loosening
Out of curiosity would it be safe to just initially shock them before you attempt to get the first crack? Or could that cause issues if it really didn’t need the shock?
it should not hurt anything
Its all strong metal. Hitting it should be okay. You're breaking the bond between the bolt and the engine.
I'm glad I didn't go buy a 12mm impact socket like i planned on doing.
God. That's Oil is really bad. I don't expect that kind of sludge even with cheap Pennzoil yellow bottle or GTX castrol. 0w-20 should be fully synthetic
Should the head bolts be replaced once taken off?
That's what most people say you should do to prevent any of them from breaking off in the engine.
yup... most head bolts these days are "torque to yield"
you are actually stretching the bolts
.
this makes them like a "spring" and helps clamp down the hhead to the block
.
but whhen you resue them..... as thhey have already stretched.... they wont stretch again
they will either snap..... or you will be doing the job again.... as its not clamped theh head to the block correctly
What about an '07 Prius? Dealer told me conventional oil was OK.
It is, you just can't continue your maintenance on the same schedule as you would synthetic. The question is, why would you not? Even the walmart synthetic is 14.50 for 5 qts. Check out project farm, he has a video comparing cheap synthetics against the expensive kind. They all out perform conventional.
sure.... if you change it every 3000 miles
.
if you wait till your change oil light comes on (aka usually 7000 miles).... you WILL have sludge
Toyota recommends to use full synthetic. I’d just go with that to be on the safe side, but nothing will probably happen as long as you change it more frequently as these 2 guys stated.
Why did you guys delete your complete Prius head gasket instructional video ?
I would love to see this one! The only other decent one I could find is fine, but looks like a few extra steps since gasketmasters have their fuel injectors connected on all of their gasket videos.
Boii that oil probably wasn't changed for 50,000 miles..
so sad to see that cheap oil slugging up the engine.
does this method work with women
when they WON'T break loose and give ya some? 1-2 taps on the noggin helps me .. rubber mallet ONLY fellas
Great trick and very well explained especially. You should monetize your video, tricks of the trade shouldn't come free lol.