I hear you loud and clear. Stay tuned to what Westcoast Saw is up to. Oregon is always hard at work, right here in Portland Oregon testing and developing equipment that gets it done in the woods.
I second this! I never got to run one of their lightweight bars personally, but all of the loggers I've heard say it was their favorite bars made! No clue why they discontinued it :(
Keep it coming! Maybe they already have this in the catalog? A table with saw CC, bar length, and recommended chain (full skip, etc.) and tooth type. Most users aren't going to take the time to make their own spreadsheet to figure out how many cutters per inch of bar their saw can handle.
I'd love to hear those guys discuss the optimum chain tension. I bet like a lot of guys I have ran chains too sloppy and too tight. Their opinion would be priceless.
Great question! In testing, we aim for optimal and consistent chain tension. Although this procedure isn't typically performed in the woods, it involves hanging a 2-pound weight from the center of the bar to cause a 1/4-inch droop in the chain. This usually results in about 20 pounds of tension. In practice, pulling the bar up, tensioning it until snug, and then tightening the bar studs should allow the chain to run freely around the bar. It should also produce a nice "snap" when the chain is pulled out of the bar groove and then released. I'll discuss this with Gordy next time we chat. Thank you!
@@OTJake-ENG Wow, I never imagined that you would reply personally. Thank you so very much Sir. I look forward to your next meeting with Gordy with great anticipation. Kindest regards from a 56 year old Scottish wood butcher.
@@OTJake-ENG The 2 lb pull gives a closer example as to tension much better than the old pull down and insert a nickle that has been used in the past but it never stated pull down how hard, Question does the 1/4inch droop at 2lbs technique equal the same 20lbs of tension on a 14inch bar as well as 60inch bar?
Would love to see more videos on this subject. I know from personal experience that a saw properly setup is a real joy to run even when the work is brutally hard. Thanks and keep yourself safe! 😃👍❤🌲 Randy
I buy rolls of Oregon chain because its easy to order and it works very well. I am still pretty disappointed that Oregon stopped making the heavier chrome X chain. That chain worked even better. Much better. Id like to see that come back. They can keep that new fancy angled cutter stuff. I do brlieve Stihl makes better (harder) chain. Thanks Gordy
Thanks for bringing up the ex chain. I have let them know a lot of guys like yourself have wanted to bring it back. It’s great that they’re hearing this from you guys. Maybe we can convince them to bring it back 👍
I found the knowledge on the sprockets helpful. Also, types of chains and when it’s best to use certain types depending on bar size and chain gauge would be great to hear more of! Thanks for sharing the knowledge with these guys, Gordy! Great video! I have a lot of respect for your knowledge and experience with chains! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Gordy, I get into my tie straps too, lmao. Not as a common practice, ya know, but I think a lot of us do. You're just man enough to admit it. Great video dude. Thank You!!
I think it would be cool if they brought the reduced weight bar back. I’d say there’s no room in the market but hell if I’d pay for a cannon lite bar, so there might be.
Bring back the old style adjustable raker gauge, best tool Oregon ever made. I am still using my grandfather’s from back in the 50s or 60s. It is worn badly but you just recalibrate it and move on!
Just Glad to see Oregon is still in operation and still made in the USA. We carry new Oregon sprockets with us in our Truck every day in our saw repair kit. It includes rope for starter ropes, sprockets for every saw we run, replacement bars, a complete spool of chain and all the tools to make new chains, air filters, carb kits, you name it and we have it in our kit....about the only thing we don't have is a replacement case part, jug or crank case, piston, rings, crankshaft etc..we do that at home in the shop...lol.
Excellent information and I'm really excited to see where this partnership goes! A whole series on this channel of OREGON videos would be amazing! Thanks Gordy for this video and the recent shop tour where I learned a ton about chainsaw chains and even zero turn lawnmower blades!
Going back to my motorcycle days , sprockets would need to be changed from time to time especially on dirt bikes , it was mantra to always put a new chain on new sprockets . Good vid Gordy , looking forward to the next one , cheers .
It would be nice if oregon could bring out a wood measuring device or lazer to mount to the chainsaw to help measure the width of wood that a person would need to cut for firewood as they don’t have anything like this here in Ireland 🇮🇪 so we have to roughly gauge it .
We have what you’re looking for on our website. It is a laser goes right on the side of your saw gives you a perfect measurement for cutting firewood.👍
Great video Gordy and fellas. I’d definitely love to see more conversations about anything these gentlemen would like to talk about. The more technical the better.
@@OTJake-ENGWell, how about a SPECIAL and LONG LENGTH FORMAT “special” just for us “chainsaw nerds” or what not? Almost ANY OF US that at interested in this type of stuff would be more than interested in taking the time to sit down and watch it, disect it, and ULTIMATELY digest it! It’d be some of the best edutainment that specialty folks like us could hope for. 😂😢
Thanks for sharing Gordy. I would like to see Oregon make light bars again and also the adjustable depth gauge from years ago. Make both in the U.S. or Canada of premium quality steel. Also a blank unsharpened chain say on the Carlton A1LMSK chassis, I end up regrinding most chains out of the box to suit my preference so why not offer an unsharpened blank chain in 100' rolls at a reduced cost?
Great video, we can never get too much information on saw chain. I have been supporting Oregon chains ever since I was helping remove storm damaged trees in my area and Oregon came down and had a free chain sharpening service to assist with storm cleanup, great company. Gordie is the best one to partner with on future videos for sure.
All my chains are from Oregon. Though was surprised they weren't actually in Oregon. What caught my attention was about the drive sprocket wear in relation to a new chain. Same goes for new brake pads to a worn-out brake disc.
YES - keep this conversation going. Thats real good stuff! I like the idea of Jake to show some examples (good, bad, worst kind) and please give him a white board to express his thoughts. Would be nice if Glenn could elaborate a bit on the typical pitfalls he is seeing at customers which can be easy avoided. Oregon is a very well known brand in Europe but im still sticking with the OEM chains - would be nice to have a better understanding whats the difference Oregon vs. lts say Husquavna OEM chains. Not a sales pitch but let these guys tell from a technical perspective why oregon is the way to go. That i would love to understand.
Good info in this video. Thanks! Back in the mid 90's my wife and I went to a steel shipper in Indiana and picked up a truckload load of coiled steel for Oregon, in Milwaukee, Oregon. We specialized in frozen refrigerated truck loads beck then, and were surprised to find that the load was to be kept at a constant temp at around 50 degrees. I was pretty impressed in their quality control from start to finish when we delivered at Oregon. We are still using Oregon chains and bars, and they now also make some very tough aftermarket mower blades that outlast John Deer blades 3:1. The next sprocket I get will be from Oregon, as well. I wasn't aware they had them when I recently replaced one.
A special steel that had to be kept chilled, prior to being placed in a press was adopted by Ford Motor Company maybe 20 years back for car bodies. It allowed the use of lighter and stronger steel.
Gordy, thank you sir for this amazing video! I grew up and spent a lot of time with my Grandpa and his best friend who was a logger in Northern MinneSnowta, so I learned from an olE school logger, but looking back now so many years later and realizing the one thing he really never spent time to teach me was anything to do with the chains as he didn't want anyone else to be blamed if the chain was not sharpened properly and this video really dialed in somethings for me now. I would love to get better at understanding the proper chain for the specific saws that I use now and this is a good start in that direction.
Very informative and helpful. I have always had issues with throwing the chain while brushing out with long bars and 70 cc saws. I would like to see more information on what causes the chain to be thrown off the bar while brushing out.
Hey Gordy reading rim ware, spur ware for home owner, what driver changes does and Doesn’t do for porformace, have then explain 42.4cc saw running .325- 66DL micro runs So smooth and cuts so great(346xp), 242xp with same bar has harder time cutting over 2.5” limbs, Get white board out and show what people need to know. Yep in Swedish and like red and Orange. I went out and checked I own piles of different Oregon chain. I like the square ground but doesn’t last in MN. My favorite chain of all time Was 3/8 (77) chain cutter was a great.
This was an awesome video!!!! Makes me love oregon products even more!!! Ive had a few of their chains where it seemed like they never went dull, lol those fuckers lasted for ever!!!
It would be really good to see a part two. Maybe a long form video. Maybe touching on more tactical things I think it’s good that you got onto the sprocket maybe talk about bar maintenance and damage and what that might mean as far as the chain life. Also, did you hear anything? Are they bringing back their lightweight bars?
Love the video Gordy! Id like to see a more in depth tutorial about which chains to use for specific powerhead power, application, and even for the type of wood. For example: this chain for a 92 cc powerhead for falling and bucking hickory vs cedar. Either way, I love your ability to "dumb" stuff down for us.
cool video. i run 24 and 28 inch bars but never checked the drive sprockets for wear, unless it felt weird installing a new chain. i will start replacing them more often. thanks!
I feel this is a rare thing these days to hear the very reasons why’s and wherefore’s. Well done and trickle more of such out aye👍Oregon is my preference chain or Carlton, mid 80’s then after twenty years pro on stihls from 090-009’s i always found Oregon gave those saws better cutting ability and greater longevity, I am a husky man at heart and still run oregon full chisel skip to date or as said also carlton, love running the 592 and Oregon skip in poisoned willows which is damn hard on gear and the worst to cut, flood sand fines imbedded within and hard to describe rubbery stuff, far worse than our hardwoods here DownUnder. Oregon is damn good stuff. Keep this tech skipping along, as said its rare to hear and i am sure there will be interesting new things learned by all. Well done💪👌
I would like to see more info on how to read the wear indicators on the sprocket. I have one saw in particular 10mm 044 that has been rebuilt several times and at most the sprocket has been replaced once.🤔
Super great video Gordy !!!!! If it went on for hour's I'd be glued 😅 One thing I'd like to see is a Speed cut Nano chain without the safety rakers. I Love the 1/4 pitch Panther chain for the top handles but the bars are junk so I thought I'd try the Nano but the only chain I've found available is home owner crap. This bar, chain and sprocket is only going to be bought by people in the business so why not have good chain available for it 🙂
Great video Gordy! Love Oregon chains i run them on all my saws. Would be interested to hear from Oregon if they're considering making lightweight bars again?
Very interested in learning more about knowing when your sprocket needs replacing. I've been following many chain sharpening groups on fb ect. And people post all sorts of problems and i dont think ive read 1 reply about sprockets. 2 chains to 1 sprocket seems a bit crazy( of course dealers want to sell) id bet even most professionals aren't doing this maintenance soon enough (if ever)
Here’s the thing: it’s not so much the “wear” as it’s more of a “beating” that both sprocket AND chain take. The sprockets are beaten INWARDS while the chain is beaten OUTWARDS which is why it’s so very easy for the 2 parts of the “system” to become “out of time” with each other. It’s a similar idea to a ring less piston inside of a bore: the more of the wear on EITHER component then the more “exaggerated” the wear will be on the other.
Gordy, thanks for the informative video. I have learned a ton from you. I would really like to hear some discussion on milling and millng chains. I have been running oregon milling chains on my 592 through some maple. Deadly combination.
@@OTJake-ENGJake, why don’t you folks offer any “square grind” files and not just round and raker files. You sell pre-ground “square ground” chain, but no files for it. What gives!
Actually show different chains and different usages, explain more in detail and show sprocket and chain together how they work together. Need more visuals would be great. Show the different cutters on the chains. Thanks great video
Love the talk! Keep them coming! Question- for us occasional saw users, where on the rpm curve is ideal for maximum chain life? Is it full throttle, light loading, or heavy loading, low RPM? Or in between? Also, will I cut a log faster by rocking the saw up and down, or keeping the saw level with the log?
I appreciate that! I look at five characteristics as a Chain-Sawmelier. Performance, Durability, Feed, Feel, and Politeness. All five are important when matching a system and cutting style.
Oregon has a great little book "Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual" that has a lot of info like the 2 chains per sprocket rule. It's available for free on their website as a PDF. I have to say they made it sound like you can't get good performance out of a chain you file or grind yourself. Is that a little bit of marketing mixed in there?
One can get great performance grinding or filing. Following the recommended angles will get one very close to out-of-the-box efficiency, having said that some of the more sophisticated grinds are difficult or impossible to achieve in an assembled chain without damaging drive links and/or tie traps. Safe cutting out there.
@@OTJake-ENG Rodger that. My biggest problem is not nicking a tie-strap. I would like to see a discussion on depth gauge setting using a Carlton File-o-Plate / Westcoast Saw progressive style vs the non progressive style gauge.
@@user-cm1jj5mz1iprogressive is the way to go. That’s because of the “rocking” motion of the way chain cuts. With a “static” style of gauge then for the more that the chain wears but with the same measured DOWN amount that static gauge gives you, the THICKER that chip will become. That thicker “chip” is harder to cut OR eject from the saw. Unless you have a VERY big engine (1000cc+) you’ll NEVER be able to to completely remove the depth gauges from saw chain.
In my example, I didn't specify a particular chain. I chose a saw, specifically the 500i, to illustrate the issues that can arise when a cutting system isn't well paired with a power head. if you would like a recommendation, let me know your system, style, and what you are cutting.
All that technology and I still can’t get a square tooth chain that can cut right out of the box. PLEASE BRING BACK THE ORIGINAL REDUCED WEIGHT BARS. All gripes aside I do love the price point for the quality that they provide. I buy a lot of Oregon products and would buy more if they had all the applications that met my needs. I’ve been looking for a reduced weight bar for almost a couple years but they’re so impossible to find. 😢
@@OSHAJobHazardMitigation I don't know why they stopped making them, must not have been profitable. I will say for the Sugi I have high hours on the durability is outstanding, extremely hard wearing, ideally needs a diamond file to dress which is itself a rare event. They also make some really light laminated bars, not sure if available on bigger saws but the narrow kerf .325 on the 50cc has been good, really light and so far holding up better than other laminated bars I've used before.
Not gonna lie like Stihl chain but it’s almost double the cost I run two ported/polished, muffler mod and tuned ms460’s with 24” bars I also like the flat bars but miss the lightweight ones, I run full skip cutting in the PA/NY Allegheny hardwoods.
Has Oregon made a chain specifically for the fella that sharpens out in the woods by hand with a round file? Obviously a design grind for power/torque/bar length/wood is ideal but soon as I have cut a few cords of firewood or play with a stump or touch the dirt I can see the flying chips are gone and I re-sharpen with a file. poof back to slinging chips. Oh and well said about rim drives...everyone should have a lil box of new rim drives and change out on the rainy days out of season.
With the 70EXL, we expanded the gullet and cutter for easier file positioning. The contoured grind works effectively with a 7/32 round file, reducing the need to remove excess top plate material to achieve the recommended angles. Safe cutting out there!
@@OTJake-ENG I was just about to suggest the 7*exl platform, its a fantastic chain, I really like its out of box performance, ease of sharpening & the smoothness of cut !! Compared to the lpx. I've found the same for the 2* lgx .325" chain over the older lpx design. They seem to be more popular with our professional customers. I use the 21lgx on a 24" bar for a ported husky 346xp 50cc chassis. Set up as a small but mighty climbing saw, it's an absolutely beautiful combination, though I'd quite like to try a skip chain, any suggestion for a .325" 0.58" full chisel skip chain for that application ? I'm in the united kingdom and skip chain is pretty rare here apart from for milling
@@theautisticarborist6846 .325, .58, skip is is a rare bird indeed. No solid suggestions from me, but if you want less of a bite, next time you sharpen leave the depth gauges alone. on the milling front if you put a conventional grind on those R chains you may have what you are looking for.
Soooo, what I'm hearing is the 300 plus cord of firewood I've got on an oregon power match bar and 15 year old factory sprocketed ms460 might be due for replacement 🤣..............but my chains are already end of life oregon chain I get from my cousin that cuts timber, so those should cancel each other out lmao
Gordi how do you get spools of chain and where do you get it from I ran out of 3/8 058 gauge chain and I cant afford to get a spool I'm just a 14 dude that likes vintage saws.
Gordy I hate to ask lol, but I run mostly echo saws and their dawgs are terrible, do you have dawgs for these saws? N how bout milawaukee new battery top handle or 8” hatchet?
Harder cutters are harder to hand file, that's the trade off, plus files get eaten up faster. Small difference in reality. My experience is that oregon stays sharp in clean wood just fine. Dirty wood dulls both brands pretty quick, embedded surprises ruins everything instantly. With the oregon you're back up and running faster. Typically oregon is cheaper which more than offsets a potentially shorter life. Ultimately best to buy different brands and types of chain and see what you like best. I had some carlton free with a saw promo a couple of years ago, it was hard, did last well, but didn't hold oil well and took a while to stop stretching plus getting nice tooth shape initially took some work and it wanted a smaller file that typical .325, cut ok, not as smooth though, I liked the durability but other than that not really worth the saving over oregon which is just very easy to live with and performs well overall. Oregon versacut is supposed to be more durable, thicker chrome plate but haven't tried it.
@@nothanks9050 Thank you for weighing in on this! The hardness of cutters is directly comparable across premium chain brands. The interaction with the chrome layer is usually felt by the file. Oregon does have a line of thicker chrome chains called Oregon "DuraCut" chains. They can be identified with the "M" stamped on the cutters. One thing I can say is that Oregon goes to great lengths to prevent chrome from depositing onto the Depth gauges "Rakers". The chrome layer is harder than the steel of a file. If there is chrome on the depth gauges the file will skate on the hard chrome making it seem harder as it damages the file. This would be a great topic to discuss in a longer form with visuals.
Do chains have an optimal linear fpm? Some of the saw builders are pushing 15,000 rpm in the cut now. Why do some chains spec 25 degrees and others 30 degrees on the cutter? Why won't the 325 nano chain work with a standard 325 sprocket? Was it designed to work with a 6 tooth sprocket and regular 325 can't turn that tight?
Thanks for the questions! Everything in physics has its trade-offs, and chainsaw performance is no exception. Cutting efficiency varies based on chain type and material. High speeds and feed loads add stress, affecting system longevity. Optimal chain speed depends on available power and cutter geometry, which can vary based on the power head and chain preparation. Let's dive into some numbers. Using an MS 500i, rated for a max RPM of 14,000 and 6.7 HP, I observed a max power of 6.22 HP at 9500 RPM on my Magtol Dynamometer. While the saw can reach 14,000 RPM unloaded, real work is done at lower RPMs. Here's the math: Chain pitch: 3/8in Number of teeth: 7 Circumference: (3/8×2)×7=5.25in Circumference in feet: 5.25/12=0.4375ft Chain speed: 0.4375×9500=4156.25fpm So in this example, even if the max RPM is 14,000, max power is achieved at 9500 RPM, giving a chain speed of 4156.25 feet per minute. Great question on the Top Plate Angle (TPA) Geometries. There are some basics to keep in mind here as far as the physics of a chisel. A steeper TPA like 30° can allow for faster cutting and produce smoother cuts. They are ideal for softwoods and general-purpose cutting. However (Trade-offs), they can be more sensitive, especially in harder or dirty wood. A user may notice a steeper TPA to be a bit less stable entering and while in the cut making it more difficult to hold a straight line. A shallower TPA like 20° can provide an improved durability and is suitable for cutting hardwoods or dirty wood. They cut more slower compared to steeper angles but can be less sensitive. A user may notice a shallower TPA to be more stable both entering and while in the cut, making it easier to hold a straight line. SpeedCut Nano (SPM) Though the pitch .325 is the same SpeedCut Nano is a narrow kerf, low profile and high-efficiency chain. SpeedCut Nano is incompatible with conventional .325 components. It is the same concept as 3/8 "91" chains to 3/8 "70" chains. This new platform was required to achieve the performance and efficiency we targeted. Systems can be converted with a sprocket bar and chain. Jake
@OTJake-ENG Thanks! On the chain speed , porters are close to getting max hp at 15,000 rpm. Thats why I was asking. Im getting 11,700 in the cut on my ported 372xp myself and Im not near the caliber porter as some of these people.
@@kraftzion I can only speak to what I have observed on the Dyno. To date I have only Dyno'ed stock saws. It would be very interesting to get a hot saw on the brake and analyze those metrics.
Gordy doesn’t. You “might” be able to retrofit an entire Stihl muffler assembly onto something else, but I personally don’t have the coin to ever do that for my 372 (coin).
Thanks for sharing, appreciated. What I would love to see is some extreme slow motion macro of some saw chain just starting to make a cross cut on some flat wood. (The slow mo guys captured lightning, so I'm thinking good video might be possible.) Also would love to see extremely quick flash pics of saw chain just starting a cut on flat board. And if it's not too much trouble could you get Ruckin Rilly Bay to stop creating nonsense fictional explanations, that would be nice. Cheers sincerely d
Hi @@OTJake-ENG Thanks for the reply. There is so much to look at and understand in the causality of cutting wood through a chain's life. With all the different tooth designs, and pitches, tapering angles it's too much for usual YT audiences. But some simple facts, shown well might suit YT and show WCS as showing real base observations/facts that other YT content (and companies) don't and generally can't. So some simple factual entertaining stuff could be done highlighting well known things while showing that mysterious visible but invisible place where chain meets wood. I have an idea for a constant angle depth gauge that, with certain disclaimers, might work from new to the witness marks on multiple pitches. It's design overcomes the decreasing angle of attack that progressive gauges have difficulty with especially toward the end of tooth life. It would be for those that understand what they are doing, or with very good instructions, because it isn't fool proof. If it works, it might best be promoted as the superior gauge but for professionals only. I really don’t know enough about what really happens through tooth life and how depth gauge causality is involved to know if it will work. So I would be interested in seeing what happens to the cutting action as the leading edge gets back toward and past the heel rivet where it rocks 'down' rather than up and how that effects what the tooth does and what is needed in the depth gauge height for efficient cutting. _(I would like to see what is going on all the way through tooth life with different attack angles to understand it better through more observation based data on it.)_ It's a lot of time and effort to set up, shoot and edit super slow mo. What sort of outcomes do you want to invest towards? If I know this I can chat accordingly. Just showing some really awesome footage of the cutting action, perhaps with a chain at the witness marks and set with the WCS progressive gauge compared to a .65mm constant would be great advertising for you as technical experts developing expert product and at the same time change the way many think about saw chain and how it cuts. If you think comparing to a .65mm is too much of a straw man then compared to the no longer produced (to my knowledge) Carlton file o plate might also work. Jest seeing the tooth leave the bar to take a chip, if shown well, will be mind blowing to many YT viewers, and WCS will be seen accordingly - WCS shows professional technical expert knowledge. *Just brainstorming* If you could set up a cut beside something like bullet proof 'glass' so you can show everything going on in a cut with the bar actually 'buried' and cutting in wood, chain dynamics, chip dynamics, depth gauge actions, etc. _(The trick would be stopping the teeth from levering themselves out wider and cutting the perspex or whatever material is used or somehow preventing it getting into the cut, or perhaps just let it??)_ If you could pull that off, well to me that will mean legend status. If something like this is done, well, the amount of discussion that mentions and often links WCS's super slow mo video of chain cutting wood could, if done well, greatly enhance awareness of WCS as a tech and knowledge leader. And possibly throw in some acting for humour, e.g. dramatize this ua-cam.com/video/6ucy4kfzhIo/v-deo.html and show macro super slow mo of the violent rocking action, subtly highlighting it as WCS footage, as part of the story. And so on ... There is so much you could do with some macro of saw chain cutting. Deciding just what to do and how to depict things will be your most important first step - which I'm sure you know. Cheers sincerely d
Be cool if they brought back there light weight bar from years past.
My thoughts exactly.
I hear you loud and clear. Stay tuned to what Westcoast Saw is up to. Oregon is always hard at work, right here in Portland Oregon testing and developing equipment that gets it done in the woods.
I second this! I never got to run one of their lightweight bars personally, but all of the loggers I've heard say it was their favorite bars made! No clue why they discontinued it :(
Very cool
if they'd allow it, maybe some bar production vids along with more chain stuff.
Keep it coming! Maybe they already have this in the catalog? A table with saw CC, bar length, and recommended chain (full skip, etc.) and tooth type. Most users aren't going to take the time to make their own spreadsheet to figure out how many cutters per inch of bar their saw can handle.
I'd love to hear those guys discuss the optimum chain tension. I bet like a lot of guys I have ran chains too sloppy and too tight. Their opinion would be priceless.
Great question! In testing, we aim for optimal and consistent chain tension. Although this procedure isn't typically performed in the woods, it involves hanging a 2-pound weight from the center of the bar to cause a 1/4-inch droop in the chain. This usually results in about 20 pounds of tension.
In practice, pulling the bar up, tensioning it until snug, and then tightening the bar studs should allow the chain to run freely around the bar. It should also produce a nice "snap" when the chain is pulled out of the bar groove and then released. I'll discuss this with Gordy next time we chat. Thank you!
@@OTJake-ENG Wow, I never imagined that you would reply personally. Thank you so very much Sir. I look forward to your next meeting with Gordy with great anticipation. Kindest regards from a 56 year old Scottish wood butcher.
@@OTJake-ENGsuper crucial Iv been wondering this myself recently of best method and what to aim for with tension. Thanks man
@@longlowdog I live and breathe this stuff it is my pleasure to help spread the word. The real thank you belongs to Gordy for setting this up.
@@OTJake-ENG The 2 lb pull gives a closer example as to tension much better than the old pull down and insert a nickle that has been used in the past but it never stated pull down how hard, Question does the 1/4inch droop at 2lbs technique equal the same 20lbs of tension on a 14inch bar as well as 60inch bar?
Would love to see more videos on this subject. I know from personal experience
that a saw properly setup is a real joy to run even when the work is brutally hard.
Thanks and keep yourself safe! 😃👍❤🌲
Randy
I buy rolls of Oregon chain because its easy to order and it works very well.
I am still pretty disappointed that Oregon stopped making the heavier chrome X chain. That chain worked even better. Much better.
Id like to see that come back. They can keep that new fancy angled cutter stuff.
I do brlieve Stihl makes better (harder) chain.
Thanks Gordy
Thanks for bringing up the ex chain. I have let them know a lot of guys like yourself have wanted to bring it back. It’s great that they’re hearing this from you guys. Maybe we can convince them to bring it back 👍
Part two would be great. thanks Gordy for all the videos
Thanks we are going to try and do this more and get more in-depth
I'd be interested in seeing some of the tooth designs they experimented with that didn't work and hear them explain why. 👍
Great episode Gordy!
I found the knowledge on the sprockets helpful. Also, types of chains and when it’s best to use certain types depending on bar size and chain gauge would be great to hear more of!
Thanks for sharing the knowledge with these guys, Gordy! Great video! I have a lot of respect for your knowledge and experience with chains! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Good call. I want to discuss both chain sequences and cutter types in the future. Thank you for adding that to the conversation.
@@OTJake-ENG thanks for sharing the knowledge! Really helpful!
Gordy, I get into my tie straps too, lmao. Not as a common practice, ya know, but I think a lot of us do. You're just man enough to admit it. Great video dude. Thank You!!
Very cool video buddy 👍
Great reminder that you can have all the power in the world, but if your chain is junk, it doesn't really matter.
Absolutely!
I do miss the Oregon lite weight bars, i don’t no why they quit making them, to me they was the best in the market
It would be interesting to see them explain the pros and cons of round ground vs square ground.
Never heard any of this about chains before. Very intriguing to know how far chains have come (if they could talk about that too)
That was such a great and educational experience. Thanks again for the invitation. 🔥
It was great to have you here! I really appreciated our conversation and your insights about your application of .325.
Great Conversation. I have been overlooking my sprockets I do believe.
I think it would be cool if they brought the reduced weight bar back. I’d say there’s no room in the market but hell if I’d pay for a cannon lite bar, so there might be.
Bring back the old style adjustable raker gauge, best tool Oregon ever made. I am still using my grandfather’s from back in the 50s or 60s. It is worn badly but you just recalibrate it and move on!
The old Oregon “gauge-it”those were super cool I got one years back works great 👌
@@westcoastsaw1368 lm sure the patent has expired by now, I’m sure WCS branded ones would be hot sellers👍
Just Glad to see Oregon is still in operation and still made in the USA.
We carry new Oregon sprockets with us in our Truck every day in our saw repair kit. It includes rope for starter ropes, sprockets for every saw we run, replacement bars, a complete spool of chain and all the tools to make new chains, air filters, carb kits, you name it and we have it in our kit....about the only thing we don't have is a replacement case part, jug or crank case, piston, rings, crankshaft etc..we do that at home in the shop...lol.
Hey Gordy, thanks, good video! Never paid to too much attention to sprockets, dare say I'll be changing a few out. Thanks to Glen and Jake for sharing
Excellent information and I'm really excited to see where this partnership goes!
A whole series on this channel of OREGON videos would be amazing!
Thanks Gordy for this video and the recent shop tour where I learned a ton about chainsaw chains and even zero turn lawnmower blades!
I love the EXL. I would love to hear some conversation about it.
Going back to my motorcycle days , sprockets would need to be changed from time to time especially on dirt bikes , it was mantra to always put a new chain on new sprockets . Good vid Gordy , looking forward to the next one , cheers .
Top notch all the way!!!!!
There's nothing like hearing the information from the experts!💪
It would be nice if oregon could bring out a wood measuring device or lazer to mount to the chainsaw to help measure the width of wood that a person would need to cut for firewood as they don’t have anything like this here in Ireland 🇮🇪 so we have to roughly gauge it .
We have what you’re looking for on our website. It is a laser goes right on the side of your saw gives you a perfect measurement for cutting firewood.👍
Not wishing to cut into Gordy's sales but a zip tie wrapped around the wrap handle and trimmed to appropriate length works pretty good.
Great video Gordy and fellas. I’d definitely love to see more conversations about anything these gentlemen would like to talk about. The more technical the better.
We could only scratch the surface in the time we had. It is good to hear that the information was well received.
@@OTJake-ENGWell, how about a SPECIAL and LONG LENGTH FORMAT “special” just for us “chainsaw nerds” or what not? Almost ANY OF US that at interested in this type of stuff would be more than interested in taking the time to sit down and watch it, disect it, and ULTIMATELY digest it! It’d be some of the best edutainment that specialty folks like us could hope for. 😂😢
Make light bars again! I still have a stock of a few but they ain't gonna last forever!
Thanks for sharing Gordy. I would like to see Oregon make light bars again and also the adjustable depth gauge from years ago. Make both in the U.S. or Canada of premium quality steel. Also a blank unsharpened chain say on the Carlton A1LMSK chassis, I end up regrinding most chains out of the box to suit my preference so why not offer an unsharpened blank chain in 100' rolls at a reduced cost?
Great video, we can never get too much information on saw chain. I have been supporting Oregon chains ever since I was helping remove storm damaged trees in my area and Oregon came down and had a free chain sharpening service to assist with storm cleanup, great company. Gordie is the best one to partner with on future videos for sure.
Thanks Gordy ✊️
Learn something new every day!
Oregon, please consider adding semi-skip, round ground, full chisel chain for the east coast hardwood saw folks.
All my chains are from Oregon.
Though was surprised they weren't actually in Oregon.
What caught my attention was about the drive sprocket wear in relation to a new chain.
Same goes for new brake pads to a worn-out brake disc.
We are in Oregon, Milwaukie is a small town outside of Portland Oregon.
YES - keep this conversation going. Thats real good stuff! I like the idea of Jake to show some examples (good, bad, worst kind) and please give him a white board to express his thoughts. Would be nice if Glenn could elaborate a bit on the typical pitfalls he is seeing at customers which can be easy avoided. Oregon is a very well known brand in Europe but im still sticking with the OEM chains - would be nice to have a better understanding whats the difference Oregon vs. lts say Husquavna OEM chains. Not a sales pitch but let these guys tell from a technical perspective why oregon is the way to go. That i would love to understand.
Good info in this video. Thanks!
Back in the mid 90's my wife and I went to a steel shipper in Indiana and picked up a truckload load of coiled steel for Oregon, in Milwaukee, Oregon. We specialized in frozen refrigerated truck loads beck then, and were surprised to find that the load was to be kept at a constant temp at around 50 degrees. I was pretty impressed in their quality control from start to finish when we delivered at Oregon. We are still using Oregon chains and bars, and they now also make some very tough aftermarket mower blades that outlast John Deer blades 3:1. The next sprocket I get will be from Oregon, as well. I wasn't aware they had them when I recently replaced one.
A special steel that had to be kept chilled, prior to being placed in a press was adopted by Ford Motor Company maybe 20 years back for car bodies. It allowed the use of lighter and stronger steel.
I went to middle school with Glenn!! Glad to see him doing well!!
would love a part 2!!!!
Gordy, thank you sir for this amazing video!
I grew up and spent a lot of time with my Grandpa and his best friend who was a logger in Northern MinneSnowta, so I learned from an olE school logger, but looking back now so many years later and realizing the one thing he really never spent time to teach me was anything to do with the chains as he didn't want anyone else to be blamed if the chain was not sharpened properly and this video really dialed in somethings for me now. I would love to get better at understanding the proper chain for the specific saws that I use now and this is a good start in that direction.
You bet thank you for the Comment Hopefully, we can address all your guises questions on the next videos coming up👍
Very informative and helpful. I have always had issues with throwing the chain while brushing out with long bars and 70 cc saws.
I would like to see more information on what causes the chain to be thrown off the bar while brushing out.
Excellent info thanks Gordy and guys
Didn’t know about changing the sprocket so often!
I did know that, but I'm really bad about changing them, oops.
Hey Gordy reading rim ware, spur ware for home owner, what driver changes does and
Doesn’t do for porformace, have then explain 42.4cc saw running .325- 66DL micro runs
So smooth and cuts so great(346xp), 242xp with same bar has harder time cutting over
2.5” limbs, Get white board out and show what people need to know.
Yep in Swedish and like red and Orange. I went out and checked I own piles of different
Oregon chain. I like the square ground but doesn’t last in MN. My favorite chain of all time
Was 3/8 (77) chain cutter was a great.
Great stuff as always Gordy, we wanna know and see more from Oregon, thank you !!!
You got it!
This was an awesome video!!!! Makes me love oregon products even more!!! Ive had a few of their chains where it seemed like they never went dull, lol those fuckers lasted for ever!!!
I can’t get enough how to square grind videos.
Great info! Thanks for sharing
It would be really good to see a part two. Maybe a long form video.
Maybe touching on more tactical things I think it’s good that you got onto the sprocket maybe talk about bar maintenance and damage and what that might mean as far as the chain life.
Also, did you hear anything? Are they bringing back their lightweight bars?
Great topics! Thank you.
Dude! Keep the info coming! Thank you all for sharing!
Will do!
Very interesting, thank you
Love the video Gordy! Id like to see a more in depth tutorial about which chains to use for specific powerhead power, application, and even for the type of wood. For example: this chain for a 92 cc powerhead for falling and bucking hickory vs cedar. Either way, I love your ability to "dumb" stuff down for us.
cool video. i run 24 and 28 inch bars but never checked the drive sprockets for wear, unless it felt weird installing a new chain. i will start replacing them more often. thanks!
I feel this is a rare thing these days to hear the very reasons why’s and wherefore’s. Well done and trickle more of such out aye👍Oregon is my preference chain or Carlton, mid 80’s then after twenty years pro on stihls from 090-009’s i always found Oregon gave those saws better cutting ability and greater longevity, I am a husky man at heart and still run oregon full chisel skip to date or as said also carlton, love running the 592 and Oregon skip in poisoned willows which is damn hard on gear and the worst to cut, flood sand fines imbedded within and hard to describe rubbery stuff, far worse than our hardwoods here DownUnder. Oregon is damn good stuff. Keep this tech skipping along, as said its rare to hear and i am sure there will be interesting new things learned by all. Well done💪👌
Well Said!
I would like to see more info on how to read the wear indicators on the sprocket. I have one saw in particular 10mm 044 that has been rebuilt several times and at most the sprocket has been replaced once.🤔
Super great video Gordy !!!!! If it went on for hour's I'd be glued 😅 One thing I'd like to see is a Speed cut Nano chain without the safety rakers. I Love the 1/4 pitch Panther chain for the top handles but the bars are junk so I thought I'd try the Nano but the only chain I've found available is home owner crap. This bar, chain and sprocket is only going to be bought by people in the business so why not have good chain available for it 🙂
Oregon square ground files ? never seen em Gordie ..Hey thanks I'm off to replace some sprockets ... Gold as always
Very cool of them & yourself Gordy to help any of the keyboard know it alls with actual real world information.
Love this video. Thanks to everyone involved!
Thank you
Great video, loved it❤
Great video Gordy! Love Oregon chains i run them on all my saws. Would be interested to hear from Oregon if they're considering making lightweight bars again?
Gordy you look like Sling Blade character with the shaved head, lol all good though. Love your channel.
Great video gordy in depth hope to see more from you and oregon
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Good video!! Good nerdy saw-guy stuff! 😝 Thanks guys!
Great interview and great information!! Thanks Gordy! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you gentlemen. Interesting video. Cheers from NZ🇳🇿.
What a video!! Keep them coming
For sure show us again about all the stuff that they have to do with Oregon and tools I like to see it
Great video .
I have been to the Guelph Ontario facility , so impressive. I look forward to more videos of this nature. Thanks so much.
Thanks for this.
My pleasure!
Would it great to get some information on what to look at while filling a chain
Awesome explanation and educational video I sure wish Oregon would bring back their lightweight bar
Stay tuned.
@@OTJake-ENGAWESOMENESS!
Very interested in learning more about knowing when your sprocket needs replacing. I've been following many chain sharpening groups on fb ect. And people post all sorts of problems and i dont think ive read 1 reply about sprockets. 2 chains to 1 sprocket seems a bit crazy( of course dealers want to sell) id bet even most professionals aren't doing this maintenance soon enough (if ever)
Here’s the thing: it’s not so much the “wear” as it’s more of a “beating” that both sprocket AND chain take. The sprockets are beaten INWARDS while the chain is beaten OUTWARDS which is why it’s so very easy for the 2 parts of the “system” to become “out of time” with each other.
It’s a similar idea to a ring less piston inside of a bore: the more of the wear on EITHER component then the more “exaggerated” the wear will be on the other.
I would be interested on learning about chain tension on the bar according to their experts.
Give video wcs
Good stuff
I would love to hear a conversation on square grinding/ filing from Jake and Glenn at Oregon
Gordy, thanks for the informative video. I have learned a ton from you. I would really like to hear some discussion on milling and millng chains. I have been running oregon milling chains on my 592 through some maple. Deadly combination.
Are you running our 27R chains?
@@OTJake-ENGJake, why don’t you folks offer any “square grind” files and not just round and raker files. You sell pre-ground “square ground” chain, but no files for it. What gives!
Yes.....I want to know everything! Thanks
Let’s see what the stock grind looks like and a little info on why the way it is
Actually show different chains and different usages, explain more in detail and show sprocket and chain together how they work together. Need more visuals would be great. Show the different cutters on the chains. Thanks great video
Bring props to demo. Show us how to red chain.
Info on hexa and the trend of smaller sized chain. Will a 572xp come with .325 someday kind of thing
Love the talk! Keep them coming! Question- for us occasional saw users, where on the rpm curve is ideal for maximum chain life? Is it full throttle, light loading, or heavy loading, low RPM? Or in between? Also, will I cut a log faster by rocking the saw up and down, or keeping the saw level with the log?
More of this
And I am going to start using the term polite to describe a chain.
I appreciate that! I look at five characteristics as a Chain-Sawmelier. Performance, Durability, Feed, Feel, and Politeness. All five are important when matching a system and cutting style.
@@OTJake-ENGunderstood!
Oregon has a great little book "Oregon Maintenance and Safety Manual" that has a lot of info like the 2 chains per sprocket rule. It's available for free on their website as a PDF. I have to say they made it sound like you can't get good performance out of a chain you file or grind yourself. Is that a little bit of marketing mixed in there?
One can get great performance grinding or filing. Following the recommended angles will get one very close to out-of-the-box efficiency, having said that some of the more sophisticated grinds are difficult or impossible to achieve in an assembled chain without damaging drive links and/or tie traps. Safe cutting out there.
@@OTJake-ENG Rodger that. My biggest problem is not nicking a tie-strap. I would like to see a discussion on depth gauge setting using a Carlton File-o-Plate / Westcoast Saw progressive style vs the non progressive style gauge.
@@user-cm1jj5mz1iprogressive is the way to go. That’s because of the “rocking” motion of the way chain cuts. With a “static” style of gauge then for the more that the chain wears but with the same measured DOWN amount that static gauge gives you, the THICKER that chip will become. That thicker “chip” is harder to cut OR eject from the saw. Unless you have a VERY big engine (1000cc+) you’ll NEVER be able to to completely remove the depth gauges from saw chain.
Great video Gordy , and the Oregon guys, what was the specific chain for the 500i that was referred to?
Regards J&S Tree Services Warrington UK
In my example, I didn't specify a particular chain. I chose a saw, specifically the 500i, to illustrate the issues that can arise when a cutting system isn't well paired with a power head. if you would like a recommendation, let me know your system, style, and what you are cutting.
All that technology and I still can’t get a square tooth chain that can cut right out of the box. PLEASE BRING BACK THE ORIGINAL REDUCED WEIGHT BARS. All gripes aside I do love the price point for the quality that they provide. I buy a lot of Oregon products and would buy more if they had all the applications that met my needs. I’ve been looking for a reduced weight bar for almost a couple years but they’re so impossible to find. 😢
Sugihara and Tsumura make very nice professional light bars if you haven't already checked those out.
@@nothanks9050 I run the stihl light bars. The weights on the Sugi and Tsumara bars are ok but the Oregon RDW Bars were iconic af.
@@OSHAJobHazardMitigation I don't know why they stopped making them, must not have been profitable. I will say for the Sugi I have high hours on the durability is outstanding, extremely hard wearing, ideally needs a diamond file to dress which is itself a rare event. They also make some really light laminated bars, not sure if available on bigger saws but the narrow kerf .325 on the 50cc has been good, really light and so far holding up better than other laminated bars I've used before.
Not gonna lie like Stihl chain but it’s almost double the cost I run two ported/polished, muffler mod and tuned ms460’s with 24” bars I also like the flat bars but miss the lightweight ones, I run full skip cutting in the PA/NY Allegheny hardwoods.
More more more
Hey gordy great video as usual lol . Unrelated question can I still get some of the red jed walters tee shirts? ❤ thank you. New Jersey logman 👍🌲
Has Oregon made a chain specifically for the fella that sharpens out in the woods by hand with a round file? Obviously a design grind for power/torque/bar length/wood is ideal but soon as I have cut a few cords of firewood or play with a stump or touch the dirt I can see the flying chips are gone and I re-sharpen with a file. poof back to slinging chips. Oh and well said about rim drives...everyone should have a lil box of new rim drives and change out on the rainy days out of season.
With the 70EXL, we expanded the gullet and cutter for easier file positioning. The contoured grind works effectively with a 7/32 round file, reducing the need to remove excess top plate material to achieve the recommended angles. Safe cutting out there!
@@OTJake-ENG I was just about to suggest the 7*exl platform, its a fantastic chain, I really like its out of box performance, ease of sharpening & the smoothness of cut !! Compared to the lpx. I've found the same for the 2* lgx .325" chain over the older lpx design. They seem to be more popular with our professional customers. I use the 21lgx on a 24" bar for a ported husky 346xp 50cc chassis. Set up as a small but mighty climbing saw, it's an absolutely beautiful combination, though I'd quite like to try a skip chain, any suggestion for a .325" 0.58" full chisel skip chain for that application ? I'm in the united kingdom and skip chain is pretty rare here apart from for milling
@@theautisticarborist6846 .325, .58, skip is is a rare bird indeed. No solid suggestions from me, but if you want less of a bite, next time you sharpen leave the depth gauges alone. on the milling front if you put a conventional grind on those R chains you may have what you are looking for.
Soooo, what I'm hearing is the 300 plus cord of firewood I've got on an oregon power match bar and 15 year old factory sprocketed ms460 might be due for replacement 🤣..............but my chains are already end of life oregon chain I get from my cousin that cuts timber, so those should cancel each other out lmao
Gordi how do you get spools of chain and where do you get it from I ran out of 3/8 058 gauge chain and I cant afford to get a spool I'm just a 14 dude that likes vintage saws.
Gordy I hate to ask lol, but I run mostly echo saws and their dawgs are terrible, do you have dawgs for these saws? N how bout milawaukee new battery top handle or 8” hatchet?
You’re not the only one on the quest. Of THAT I can assure you! 😢
Nice i just heard stihl chain is longer lasting. Has edge for longer?
Harder cutters are harder to hand file, that's the trade off, plus files get eaten up faster. Small difference in reality. My experience is that oregon stays sharp in clean wood just fine. Dirty wood dulls both brands pretty quick, embedded surprises ruins everything instantly. With the oregon you're back up and running faster. Typically oregon is cheaper which more than offsets a potentially shorter life. Ultimately best to buy different brands and types of chain and see what you like best. I had some carlton free with a saw promo a couple of years ago, it was hard, did last well, but didn't hold oil well and took a while to stop stretching plus getting nice tooth shape initially took some work and it wanted a smaller file that typical .325, cut ok, not as smooth though, I liked the durability but other than that not really worth the saving over oregon which is just very easy to live with and performs well overall. Oregon versacut is supposed to be more durable, thicker chrome plate but haven't tried it.
@@nothanks9050 Thank you for weighing in on this! The hardness of cutters is directly comparable across premium chain brands. The interaction with the chrome layer is usually felt by the file. Oregon does have a line of thicker chrome chains called Oregon "DuraCut" chains. They can be identified with the "M" stamped on the cutters. One thing I can say is that Oregon goes to great lengths to prevent chrome from depositing onto the Depth gauges "Rakers". The chrome layer is harder than the steel of a file. If there is chrome on the depth gauges the file will skate on the hard chrome making it seem harder as it damages the file. This would be a great topic to discuss in a longer form with visuals.
Do chains have an optimal linear fpm? Some of the saw builders are pushing 15,000 rpm in the cut now. Why do some chains spec 25 degrees and others 30 degrees on the cutter? Why won't the 325 nano chain work with a standard 325 sprocket? Was it designed to work with a 6 tooth sprocket and regular 325 can't turn that tight?
Thanks for the questions! Everything in physics has its trade-offs, and chainsaw performance is no exception. Cutting efficiency varies based on chain type and material. High speeds and feed loads add stress, affecting system longevity. Optimal chain speed depends on available power and cutter geometry, which can vary based on the power head and chain preparation.
Let's dive into some numbers. Using an MS 500i, rated for a max RPM of 14,000 and 6.7 HP, I observed a max power of 6.22 HP at 9500 RPM on my Magtol Dynamometer. While the saw can reach 14,000 RPM unloaded, real work is done at lower RPMs.
Here's the math:
Chain pitch: 3/8in
Number of teeth: 7
Circumference: (3/8×2)×7=5.25in
Circumference in feet: 5.25/12=0.4375ft
Chain speed: 0.4375×9500=4156.25fpm
So in this example, even if the max RPM is 14,000, max power is achieved at 9500 RPM, giving a chain speed of 4156.25 feet per minute.
Great question on the Top Plate Angle (TPA) Geometries. There are some basics to keep in mind here as far as the physics of a chisel.
A steeper TPA like 30° can allow for faster cutting and produce smoother cuts. They are ideal for softwoods and general-purpose cutting. However (Trade-offs), they can be more sensitive, especially in harder or dirty wood. A user may notice a steeper TPA to be a bit less stable entering and while in the cut making it more difficult to hold a straight line.
A shallower TPA like 20° can provide an improved durability and is suitable for cutting hardwoods or dirty wood. They cut more slower compared to steeper angles but can be less sensitive. A user may notice a shallower TPA to be more stable both entering and while in the cut, making it easier to hold a straight line.
SpeedCut Nano (SPM)
Though the pitch .325 is the same SpeedCut Nano is a narrow kerf, low profile and high-efficiency chain. SpeedCut Nano is incompatible with conventional .325 components. It is the same concept as 3/8 "91" chains to 3/8 "70" chains. This new platform was required to achieve the performance and efficiency we targeted. Systems can be converted with a sprocket bar and chain.
Jake
@OTJake-ENG Thanks! On the chain speed , porters are close to getting max hp at 15,000 rpm. Thats why I was asking. Im getting 11,700 in the cut on my ported 372xp myself and Im not near the caliber porter as some of these people.
@@kraftzion I can only speak to what I have observed on the Dyno. To date I have only Dyno'ed stock saws. It would be very interesting to get a hot saw on the brake and analyze those metrics.
I have a Husqvarna 440E series do you make a bark box for that type of saw ??
Gordy doesn’t. You “might” be able to retrofit an entire Stihl muffler assembly onto something else, but I personally don’t have the coin to ever do that for my 372 (coin).
Thanks for sharing, appreciated.
What I would love to see is some extreme slow motion macro of some saw chain just starting to make a cross cut on some flat wood. (The slow mo guys captured lightning, so I'm thinking good video might be possible.) Also would love to see extremely quick flash pics of saw chain just starting a cut on flat board. And if it's not too much trouble could you get Ruckin Rilly Bay to stop creating nonsense fictional explanations, that would be nice.
Cheers
sincerely
d
@westcoastsaw1368 We can do this our labs use 3 Phantom Cameras to do just this sort of thing. Lets Chat!
Hi @@OTJake-ENG
Thanks for the reply.
There is so much to look at and understand in the causality of cutting wood through a chain's life. With all the different tooth designs, and pitches, tapering angles it's too much for usual YT audiences.
But some simple facts, shown well might suit YT and show WCS as showing real base observations/facts that other YT content (and companies) don't and generally can't. So some simple factual entertaining stuff could be done highlighting well known things while showing that mysterious visible but invisible place where chain meets wood.
I have an idea for a constant angle depth gauge that, with certain disclaimers, might work from new to the witness marks on multiple pitches. It's design overcomes the decreasing angle of attack that progressive gauges have difficulty with especially toward the end of tooth life. It would be for those that understand what they are doing, or with very good instructions, because it isn't fool proof. If it works, it might best be promoted as the superior gauge but for professionals only. I really don’t know enough about what really happens through tooth life and how depth gauge causality is involved to know if it will work.
So I would be interested in seeing what happens to the cutting action as the leading edge gets back toward and past the heel rivet where it rocks 'down' rather than up and how that effects what the tooth does and what is needed in the depth gauge height for efficient cutting. _(I would like to see what is going on all the way through tooth life with different attack angles to understand it better through more observation based data on it.)_
It's a lot of time and effort to set up, shoot and edit super slow mo. What sort of outcomes do you want to invest towards? If I know this I can chat accordingly.
Just showing some really awesome footage of the cutting action, perhaps with a chain at the witness marks and set with the WCS progressive gauge compared to a .65mm constant would be great advertising for you as technical experts developing expert product and at the same time change the way many think about saw chain and how it cuts. If you think comparing to a .65mm is too much of a straw man then compared to the no longer produced (to my knowledge) Carlton file o plate might also work. Jest seeing the tooth leave the bar to take a chip, if shown well, will be mind blowing to many YT viewers, and WCS will be seen accordingly - WCS shows professional technical expert knowledge.
*Just brainstorming*
If you could set up a cut beside something like bullet proof 'glass' so you can show everything going on in a cut with the bar actually 'buried' and cutting in wood, chain dynamics, chip dynamics, depth gauge actions, etc. _(The trick would be stopping the teeth from levering themselves out wider and cutting the perspex or whatever material is used or somehow preventing it getting into the cut, or perhaps just let it??)_ If you could pull that off, well to me that will mean legend status. If something like this is done, well, the amount of discussion that mentions and often links WCS's super slow mo video of chain cutting wood could, if done well, greatly enhance awareness of WCS as a tech and knowledge leader. And possibly throw in some acting for humour, e.g. dramatize this ua-cam.com/video/6ucy4kfzhIo/v-deo.html
and show macro super slow mo of the violent rocking action, subtly highlighting it as WCS footage, as part of the story. And so on ...
There is so much you could do with some macro of saw chain cutting. Deciding just what to do and how to depict things will be your most important first step - which I'm sure you know.
Cheers
sincerely
d
I can't seem to find a 32 inch 3/8 58 gauge round file skip chain from Oregon.
Oregon"PowerCut" 73EXJ in 104 Drive-Links would be what you are looking for. Safe cutting out there!
@@OTJake-ENG105 drivers, depending upon what saw AND bar specifically.