I did something similar to my Mac 9 DS. I put an Atlas Gunworks toolless guide rod in it with a shock buff and I changed the recoil spring to 13 pounds and I put a 17 pound main spring in it. The pistol came from the factory waaay over sprung in my opinion. I also put a Red Dirt trigger in it and I adjusted it to have a consistent 3 pound trigger pull. I couldn't stand the factory polymer grip so I put a Cheely aluminum E2 grip on it. The changes I made totally transformed this pistol. It's now my favorite pistol to shoot.
What a great sense of humor in the first part. I’m doing the same as you with a Prodigy 5" for competition purposes. Among the various changes and improvements I made was swapping the recoil spring for a 9lb Wolf, and the difference has been incredibly good. I have two questions: why did you choose the MAC instead of the Prodigy, and the Wolf recoil spring comes with another one for the firing pin- Why did you change it. Thanks, your advice has been very helpful to me.
I paid $400 less for this than the Prodigy, and I knew i was going to upgrade it and tune it up anyways. I have about the money into this with all the upgrades than buying a new prodigy. The performance now is way better than a Prodigy would be out of the box. It was the right decision for my use case and this project. The prodigy has a better fit slide and bull barrel, generally better machining, fit and finish. That wasn't as important to me. I always put the firing pin springs in. The 70 series 1911 internals (what this gun and most 1911/2011 pistols have) do not have firing pin safety blocks. They are not drop safe, and prone to inertial ignition. That spring adds a significant margin of safety. I have never had it result in light primer strikes with main springs as low as 17 pounds. This is also recommended by Bill Wilson in his book "the combat auto" so its not just the opinion of some internet dude (me), but someone who i would call an expert for sure haha.
First time viewer. Loved you channel and the great knowledge and workmanship. I had a Staccato P and sold it. I miss that pistol. Looking to getting back to a comprable shooter with out the spendy price tag. Looks like you nailed it 😊
No idea. I would imagine not. A bull barrel needs to be carefully fit to the slide. A bull barrel wouldnt be a drop in part anyways. I dont even know if there is a standard OD or profile for bull barrels. Seems every manufacturer kinda does their own thing.
Really enjoy these videos on the Tisas 2011s. I doubt I'll be buying one (I'm a godless heathen that likes an arched mainspring housing, which doesn't really work great on a 2011), but I appreciate your breakdown/upgrade showcases. My two current 1911 projects are "restoring" an old Armand Swenson 1911, and reworking an old (105 year old) bullseye gun. I've also got a nearly finished Tank Commander 9mm, that I might mill for an optic. Thanks for the video!
Would you consider doing another comparison video to the Tisas now that they are both fully upgraded? Would be curious to hear your final thoughts on how they compare now both in final form both outright and for the money.
I sold the Tisas to fund more projects haha. But, these two guns are so similar it really comes down to your choise in optic footprint and if you want a bull barrel. They are both made by tisas, they both have the same internals, materials, finishes, etc. They both feel kinda shitty out of the box but both have the same potential to be upgraded pretty much however you want. My tisas shot a little flatter due to the porting. But i could have ported the MAC9 in the same way and it would have performed almost identical. I would say due to the current price of the tisas it should be the go to. If you really want the RMR optic mounting plate, or the bull barrel, then pay the extra money for the MAC. Hope this helps.
How did you/what do you recommend to clean all the cerakote off the internals/components and did you do anything to re-coat them to protect from corrosion? I know sometimes parts/manufacturers rely on that single coating to protect components if they're not made out of a corrosion resistant material- good video and Tisas series and I appreciate the recommendations!
I just use medium and fine stones to clean up the internals. Fine sandpaper in some cases. Same as I would use for cleaning up any parts, just take a little longer because you have to get thru the cerakote first. All the internals, slide, frame, etc. are all alloy steel that can rust. Where I take cerakote off is only places that will remain lubricated at all times. I didn't do anything to refinish them. Lube your gun properly and they wont corrode.
Hey man quick question, I didnt get much help from Atlas or Ben Stroger. I have the 1911 DS with the bushing barrel. I purchased the atlas 4.25 guide rod for a prodigy thinking id get lucky. Not so much. my oem spring does not slide over the capture rod and the reverse end cap is wrong. I can probably figure out what spring to get but the reverse end cap has me stumped. Any advice would me greatly appreciated!
If you have the tisas 1911 carry DS, that has a bushing barrel. That guide rod and reverse plug are for a bushing-less (bull) barrel. It will not fit and it not a good idea to try to make it fit. If you want a full length guide rod in your tisas 1911 carry ds, get a full length commander guide rod from wilson combat.
Glad you're enjoying the content! I try my best to read and respond to every comment. Prodigy grip module will work on the Tisas. Minor fitting required.
I posted a whole video explaining how to calculate this. I ended up going with .330" tall. That was what got me closest to be desired POI/POA intersection of 15 yards.
Did you have problems with the Beavertail from the Mac not fitting the Prodigy grip? I installed the Prodigy grip and Mainspring Housing but the Mac beavertail won't collapse all the way. Seems to run into the top of the Prodigy mainspring housing. Was this something you ran into?
I didnt use the mac9 factory safety I fit a different one to the prodigy grip module. The top of the MSH may need to be trimmed down. I had to open up the width of the grip module where the grip safety swings in.
Congratulations on the successful completion of Project Mac 9. The finished product looks very vice, and I am sure it shoots even better. A question for you or others who follow your channel - is EGW ignition kit a drop-in in Mac 9 DS? Lastly, where did you source the Prodigy grip from? I’ve been looking for one - they are hard to find at an affordable price.
Thanks I am very happy with it! There isn't really any part on a 1911 that is "drop in" unfortunetely. An EGW kit will go into the MAC9 just fine because it uses standard 1911 (70 series) internals. But without some fitting and tuning the trigger probably wont be very good. It will likely work and will probably be safe but I can't say for sure due to the nature of 1911 parts and internals. I called Springfield customer service. The sold me te grip module for $39.
Yeah this one was hanging up a little. Not enough to hold the slide but it was noticeable. The Tisas did that as well. Super commong on cheap 1911s that aren't tuned or fitted at all.
Do you have any videos showing trigger or extractor adjustment? Also anything on actually polishing internals? Lastly video on refinishing where you blended some of the frame, slide, or end of the barrel when you re-crowned it.
Here is a good extractor tuning video (not mine): ua-cam.com/video/Xm3ss3XMQxM/v-deo.html Here is my video on the process and chemicals I use to refinish stainless steel firearms components. I also now use it to refinish carbon steel as it gives me a more durable finish than cold blue: ua-cam.com/video/1zftHHj8fxA/v-deo.html I have had a few requests to make a guide to polishing components. I will be working on that soon. I think a 1911 trigger tuning video would be good but there are also tons of good videos out there already. it would also be hard to make a video covering every aspect of it from sear spring tuning, trigger fitting, pre-travel and over-travel adjustment, sear and hammer relationship, the interaction of main spring weight and sear spring adjustment. What aspect of trigger tuning are you specifically interested in? Just general improvement of the 1911 trigger for a general audience?
@@EngineersArmory just general trigger improvement. My Kimber has a good trigger and I picked up a Ruger 1911 probably 7-8 years ago that I was able to choose between 5-6 that they had in stock at a local store so it also has a good trigger. I am hoping that the Mac 9 has a good trigger, will find out Tuesday. I don't like an extremely light trigger, just little travel and a clean not gritty break.
@@customcutter100 gotcha. Makes sense. There is a lot of that information throughout my Springfield prodigy video. That may be a good starting point. I'll think about how I may want to present that information in a video. Because, for example, if you want to decrease creep in a 1911 trigger, you're cutting down hammer hooks and cutting new sear faces which is out of the realm of general modifications people are likely to do.
@@EngineersArmory Thanks for the reply. I called it creep, but probably should have called it pre-travel. I know the Mac 9 has a screw to adjust pre-travel, so hope it breaks clean below 5#. I tried shooting a few IDPA matches about 30 years ago, and much preferred my Kimber Compact to a .40cal glock (don't remember the full size model #)) I sold the glock, can't stand striker fired long travel triggers. LOL Thinking about shooting some IDPA again to train with the Mac 9. I'll have to remove the mag well and pick up a 3rd mag if I do.
@@customcutter100 the mac9 trigger has no provision for pre travel adjustment so you would need a new trigger to adjust that. It does have overtravel adjustment. I was talking about creep as in the amount the trigger moves rearward from the wall before releasing the hammer. The mac9 and tisas both had a gross amount of creep (my opinion). But as I said in the other comment that's not the most straight forward thing to take care of.
Do you think it’s worth it going from a tisas br9 DS with about $300-500 in upgrades to a Mac 9? Or think it’s nothin too crazy about the differences and maybe aim for a prodigy next?
I made a video detailing the differences between the Tisas and MAC9. Pretty much you would buy the MAC9 if you want a bull barrel and RMR optic footprint. I also dont think with the prices right now those features are worth the extra cost over the tisas. The Tisas and MAC9 both shoot the same out of the box - which is.... I am not kidding, worse than a factory Glock. The tisas is where I would start if you want to upgrade it becuase you can find them for under $600 right now. if you want a doublestack 1911 that actually shoots decent out of the box, save your money for at least the prodigy.
@@EngineersArmory just watched it! I think I’m going to keep upgrading my tisas to the best i can get it for me until i can get me a staccato. With the right upgrades i honestly believe you can get very very peak performance out of a built up tisas than another budget option
@dltz when I remove a mag that still has ammo in it, the top round somehow follows the chambered round. And ends up in the grip loose and has to be dropped out b4 I can insert the new mag. I've been told that this is a 2011 thing. Idk as this is my first 2011.
@@Ballistikpapa shoot all the ammo in the mag before removing it... hahaha jk. Yeah that sounds normal. They mags are loose on 9mm cuz they also accomodate 38 super. They are long for the 9mm round. Soft follower spring and relatively vertical feed lips.
@@Ballistikpapa if they're all the same 9/38 sti/staccato pattern I would imagine so. Staccato has proprietary mags for a couple of their compact models that are specific to 9mm. May not have this problem.
Blackhawk omnivore. It latches onto the Streamlight TLR-1 so you can use any pistol as long as that weapon light is on it. I have one for the Surefire X-300U light as well. Great for range use. Good retention.
@@christophernewsom8898 It required some minor fitting. Nothing too bad. Took maybe 20 minutes to fit it like I want. One side of it wouldn't have allowed the grip screw bushing thru without fitting. Not a drop in part (no part on a 1911/2011 really is). At some point I plan on making a prodigy grip module installation video. When I buy my next budget 2011 project haha.
@@EngineersArmory gun looks great when you installed the staccato trigger did you have to do any tuning to the sear spring? Or just drop it and and giver er hell and is that a Glock rear sight on the rmr plate?
not including shipping. But they didn't charge me for shipping on my first order. The other one they charged $10. Still a killer deal. The mag catch, hardware, and MSH were dirt cheap too.
Would you rather buy and build this Mac the way you did for 1200, or would you rather buy a used Prodigy for 1000 and spend 200 bucks on replacing the MIM parts? What’s your personal opinion? I just found your channel about a month ago, but so far I’m lovin the content and your capabilities. 💯🔥🫡👍🏻👍🏻
I appreciate the kind words and glad you're enjoying the content! That is a damn good question. Tough choice.... Still the MAC9. I have done a full tune up on a 4.25 prodigy, had my hands on every part. The Prodigy is a good gun and a great starting place for a project. Minimum I would want to replace the trigger and thumb safety in addition to the ignition kit. $150 for an EGW ignition kit, $40 minimum for a trigger, $80 minimum for a thumb safety set. I would also want a magwell - add another $60. Thats $330 on top of the cost of the prodigy which maybe you can get for $1000, but new they are $1200+. I still think the MAC9 is a better deal for me because I do my own work. However if you want better performance out of the box, the Prodigy is the way to go. The MAC9 (out of the box) feels worse than a factory Glock I'm not kidding. A Prodigy with an ignition kit would be a damn solid gun too. You also don't need the ignition kit in the Prodigy unless you want some crazy sub 2.5# trigger or you are going to put like 10k+ rounds thru it. The MIM parts are high quality and clean up well. I got an awesome 3# trigger on the one I tuned up. Depends on your wants, needs, budget, gunsmithing skils, etc. I like the general fit and finish of the prodigy better. I like the heavier barrel. They generally have better tolerances than the MAC9. The grip module is way better - thats why I put one on this MAC9 haha. Rambled. Anyways that wasnt really a definite answer. For me - the MAC9. For anyone else... I cant say.
@@EngineersArmoryive made the right choice for myself then. I'll just juice up my prodigy and skip on a mac or tisas. Thanks for the awesome content. Very very useful info for future decisions.
@@Bedbassandbeyond Yeah, if you already got the Prodigy, just modify and tailor that to your liking. Its a great gun! thanks for watching and commenting!
I did something similar to my Mac 9 DS. I put an Atlas Gunworks toolless guide rod in it with a shock buff and I changed the recoil spring to 13 pounds and I put a 17 pound main spring in it. The pistol came from the factory waaay over sprung in my opinion. I also put a Red Dirt trigger in it and I adjusted it to have a consistent 3 pound trigger pull. I couldn't stand the factory polymer grip so I put a Cheely aluminum E2 grip on it. The changes I made totally transformed this pistol. It's now my favorite pistol to shoot.
Thats a sick sounding setup! thanks for sharing. This pistol is a great place to start a build from mild to wild!
Always impressed with your knowledge and ingenuity. Great video!
What a great sense of humor in the first part. I’m doing the same as you with a Prodigy 5" for competition purposes. Among the various changes and improvements I made was swapping the recoil spring for a 9lb Wolf, and the difference has been incredibly good. I have two questions: why did you choose the MAC instead of the Prodigy, and the Wolf recoil spring comes with another one for the firing pin- Why did you change it. Thanks, your advice has been very helpful to me.
I paid $400 less for this than the Prodigy, and I knew i was going to upgrade it and tune it up anyways. I have about the money into this with all the upgrades than buying a new prodigy. The performance now is way better than a Prodigy would be out of the box. It was the right decision for my use case and this project. The prodigy has a better fit slide and bull barrel, generally better machining, fit and finish. That wasn't as important to me.
I always put the firing pin springs in. The 70 series 1911 internals (what this gun and most 1911/2011 pistols have) do not have firing pin safety blocks. They are not drop safe, and prone to inertial ignition. That spring adds a significant margin of safety. I have never had it result in light primer strikes with main springs as low as 17 pounds. This is also recommended by Bill Wilson in his book "the combat auto" so its not just the opinion of some internet dude (me), but someone who i would call an expert for sure haha.
@@EngineersArmory Thank you, both arguments make sense to me. (I will replace the firing pin spring too )
@@EngineersArmoryhaa..mine is opppsite. Prodigy smoother, but looser fit. Mac tighter fit, but not as smooth
@@Bedbassandbeyond haha that's funny. Gotta love the wide manufacturing variance of cheap pistols.
Really cool project! Nice work!
Loving your vids. My DS has quickly become my favorite gun. I need to jump into doing some of these mods.
It's a great platform and has a lot of potential!
Absolutely great work. You are an artist.
First time viewer. Loved you channel and the great knowledge and workmanship. I had a Staccato P and sold it. I miss that pistol. Looking to getting back to a comprable shooter with out the spendy price tag. Looks like you nailed it 😊
You snapped on crowning the barrel, do you know if the bull barrel is interchangeable with other 4.25” 2011’s ?
No idea. I would imagine not. A bull barrel needs to be carefully fit to the slide. A bull barrel wouldnt be a drop in part anyways. I dont even know if there is a standard OD or profile for bull barrels. Seems every manufacturer kinda does their own thing.
Really enjoy these videos on the Tisas 2011s. I doubt I'll be buying one (I'm a godless heathen that likes an arched mainspring housing, which doesn't really work great on a 2011), but I appreciate your breakdown/upgrade showcases.
My two current 1911 projects are "restoring" an old Armand Swenson 1911, and reworking an old (105 year old) bullseye gun. I've also got a nearly finished Tank Commander 9mm, that I might mill for an optic.
Thanks for the video!
Great video. Where did you buy the grip module?
Had to call Springfield customer service. They are not for sale anywhere online.
How is the prodigy grip holding up? I've seen several people online say that they're having issues with it and their mac 1911 ds.
No issues with mine. It seems every bit as robust and functional as the MAC9 factory grip module.
Would you consider doing another comparison video to the Tisas now that they are both fully upgraded? Would be curious to hear your final thoughts on how they compare now both in final form both outright and for the money.
I sold the Tisas to fund more projects haha. But, these two guns are so similar it really comes down to your choise in optic footprint and if you want a bull barrel. They are both made by tisas, they both have the same internals, materials, finishes, etc. They both feel kinda shitty out of the box but both have the same potential to be upgraded pretty much however you want. My tisas shot a little flatter due to the porting. But i could have ported the MAC9 in the same way and it would have performed almost identical.
I would say due to the current price of the tisas it should be the go to. If you really want the RMR optic mounting plate, or the bull barrel, then pay the extra money for the MAC.
Hope this helps.
How did you/what do you recommend to clean all the cerakote off the internals/components and did you do anything to re-coat them to protect from corrosion? I know sometimes parts/manufacturers rely on that single coating to protect components if they're not made out of a corrosion resistant material- good video and Tisas series and I appreciate the recommendations!
I just use medium and fine stones to clean up the internals. Fine sandpaper in some cases. Same as I would use for cleaning up any parts, just take a little longer because you have to get thru the cerakote first.
All the internals, slide, frame, etc. are all alloy steel that can rust. Where I take cerakote off is only places that will remain lubricated at all times. I didn't do anything to refinish them. Lube your gun properly and they wont corrode.
Hey man quick question, I didnt get much help from Atlas or Ben Stroger. I have the 1911 DS with the bushing barrel. I purchased the atlas 4.25 guide rod for a prodigy thinking id get lucky. Not so much. my oem spring does not slide over the capture rod and the reverse end cap is wrong. I can probably figure out what spring to get but the reverse end cap has me stumped. Any advice would me greatly appreciated!
If you have the tisas 1911 carry DS, that has a bushing barrel. That guide rod and reverse plug are for a bushing-less (bull) barrel. It will not fit and it not a good idea to try to make it fit. If you want a full length guide rod in your tisas 1911 carry ds, get a full length commander guide rod from wilson combat.
@@EngineersArmory you're the man. Appreciate it!
Where did you get the prodigy grip? I just got the tisas and want to put that grip on
Call Springfield customer service.
I love your videos man, thank you for your content and for responding to comments. Do you think the prodigy grip module will work on the tisas ds?
Glad you're enjoying the content! I try my best to read and respond to every comment. Prodigy grip module will work on the Tisas. Minor fitting required.
One more question, what size front sight? I'm thinking the .300" tall Novak at Dawson?
I posted a whole video explaining how to calculate this. I ended up going with .330" tall. That was what got me closest to be desired POI/POA intersection of 15 yards.
Did you have problems with the Beavertail from the Mac not fitting the Prodigy grip? I installed the Prodigy grip and Mainspring Housing but the Mac beavertail won't collapse all the way. Seems to run into the top of the Prodigy mainspring housing. Was this something you ran into?
I didnt use the mac9 factory safety I fit a different one to the prodigy grip module. The top of the MSH may need to be trimmed down. I had to open up the width of the grip module where the grip safety swings in.
How’d you find the prodigy grip? I can’t find it on their website
You have to call Springfield customer service to order it.
Just placed an order this morning with Springfield cs was very easy and cheap!
Congratulations on the successful completion of Project Mac 9. The finished product looks very vice, and I am sure it shoots even better.
A question for you or others who follow your channel - is EGW ignition kit a drop-in in Mac 9 DS?
Lastly, where did you source the Prodigy grip from? I’ve been looking for one - they are hard to find at an affordable price.
Thanks I am very happy with it!
There isn't really any part on a 1911 that is "drop in" unfortunetely. An EGW kit will go into the MAC9 just fine because it uses standard 1911 (70 series) internals. But without some fitting and tuning the trigger probably wont be very good. It will likely work and will probably be safe but I can't say for sure due to the nature of 1911 parts and internals.
I called Springfield customer service. The sold me te grip module for $39.
Thanks
Looks good
Does the slide get stuck in the back due to the disconnector? I saw some videos on how to fix it - wonder if your mac9 ds has the same issue?
Yeah this one was hanging up a little. Not enough to hold the slide but it was noticeable. The Tisas did that as well. Super commong on cheap 1911s that aren't tuned or fitted at all.
Where did you order the prodigy grip module from? Same for the staccato trigger
To order a Prodigy grip module you have to call Springfield customer service. I got the Staccato trigger from the Dawson Precision website.
This one guy on this one forum bullshit is why I started making videos. As always great content man! Looks like a fun project.
Theres always some guy on some forum! Thanks man. Love my 1911 projects. this one turned out sweet.
what holster is that sir? just bought a MAC and looking for a holster to train with
Blackhawk omnivore. It grabs onto the weapon light so you can use it with any pistol.
Thanks for sharing. Do you do work on DS? If you do, I would like to hire you.
Where do you get Prodigy grips for so cheap?
Call up Springfield customer service and they'll sell you one for... presumably the same price I paid. Unless im special (im not).
Do you have any videos showing trigger or extractor adjustment? Also anything on actually polishing internals? Lastly video on refinishing where you blended some of the frame, slide, or end of the barrel when you re-crowned it.
Here is a good extractor tuning video (not mine):
ua-cam.com/video/Xm3ss3XMQxM/v-deo.html
Here is my video on the process and chemicals I use to refinish stainless steel firearms components. I also now use it to refinish carbon steel as it gives me a more durable finish than cold blue:
ua-cam.com/video/1zftHHj8fxA/v-deo.html
I have had a few requests to make a guide to polishing components. I will be working on that soon.
I think a 1911 trigger tuning video would be good but there are also tons of good videos out there already. it would also be hard to make a video covering every aspect of it from sear spring tuning, trigger fitting, pre-travel and over-travel adjustment, sear and hammer relationship, the interaction of main spring weight and sear spring adjustment. What aspect of trigger tuning are you specifically interested in? Just general improvement of the 1911 trigger for a general audience?
@@EngineersArmory just general trigger improvement. My Kimber has a good trigger and I picked up a Ruger 1911 probably 7-8 years ago that I was able to choose between 5-6 that they had in stock at a local store so it also has a good trigger. I am hoping that the Mac 9 has a good trigger, will find out Tuesday. I don't like an extremely light trigger, just little travel and a clean not gritty break.
@@customcutter100 gotcha. Makes sense. There is a lot of that information throughout my Springfield prodigy video. That may be a good starting point. I'll think about how I may want to present that information in a video. Because, for example, if you want to decrease creep in a 1911 trigger, you're cutting down hammer hooks and cutting new sear faces which is out of the realm of general modifications people are likely to do.
@@EngineersArmory Thanks for the reply. I called it creep, but probably should have called it pre-travel. I know the Mac 9 has a screw to adjust pre-travel, so hope it breaks clean below 5#. I tried shooting a few IDPA matches about 30 years ago, and much preferred my Kimber Compact to a .40cal glock (don't remember the full size model #)) I sold the glock, can't stand striker fired long travel triggers. LOL Thinking about shooting some IDPA again to train with the Mac 9. I'll have to remove the mag well and pick up a 3rd mag if I do.
@@customcutter100 the mac9 trigger has no provision for pre travel adjustment so you would need a new trigger to adjust that. It does have overtravel adjustment. I was talking about creep as in the amount the trigger moves rearward from the wall before releasing the hammer. The mac9 and tisas both had a gross amount of creep (my opinion). But as I said in the other comment that's not the most straight forward thing to take care of.
Do you think it’s worth it going from a tisas br9 DS with about $300-500 in upgrades to a Mac 9? Or think it’s nothin too crazy about the differences and maybe aim for a prodigy next?
I made a video detailing the differences between the Tisas and MAC9. Pretty much you would buy the MAC9 if you want a bull barrel and RMR optic footprint. I also dont think with the prices right now those features are worth the extra cost over the tisas. The Tisas and MAC9 both shoot the same out of the box - which is.... I am not kidding, worse than a factory Glock. The tisas is where I would start if you want to upgrade it becuase you can find them for under $600 right now. if you want a doublestack 1911 that actually shoots decent out of the box, save your money for at least the prodigy.
@@EngineersArmory just watched it! I think I’m going to keep upgrading my tisas to the best i can get it for me until i can get me a staccato. With the right upgrades i honestly believe you can get very very peak performance out of a built up tisas than another budget option
My mags (tisas/chkmate) that came with the mac 9, strip a round when i reload.
Do you have this issue?
The gun is 💯. The mags ....?
What do you mean by "strip a round when I reload"?? The mags that came with the gun have functioned fine for me.
@dltz when I remove a mag that still has ammo in it, the top round somehow follows the chambered round. And ends up in the grip loose and has to be dropped out b4 I can insert the new mag.
I've been told that this is a 2011 thing. Idk as this is my first 2011.
@@Ballistikpapa shoot all the ammo in the mag before removing it... hahaha jk. Yeah that sounds normal. They mags are loose on 9mm cuz they also accomodate 38 super. They are long for the 9mm round. Soft follower spring and relatively vertical feed lips.
@dltz thanks. I heard staccato is addressing this (10-8 labs on 2011 mags) do you know if All available 2011 mags are doing this?
@@Ballistikpapa if they're all the same 9/38 sti/staccato pattern I would imagine so. Staccato has proprietary mags for a couple of their compact models that are specific to 9mm. May not have this problem.
What OWB holster do you use?
Blackhawk omnivore. It latches onto the Streamlight TLR-1 so you can use any pistol as long as that weapon light is on it. I have one for the Surefire X-300U light as well. Great for range use. Good retention.
FYI, the omnivore did not accept my chinesium tlr1 knock off.
Looked the same to the eye, but....not so much.
@@Ballistikpapa dang! Little dremel action on the holster??
Where did you find the prodigy grip module ?
call Springfield customer service to order one.
@@EngineersArmory thank you I appreciate it brother great video by the way.
I have the Tisas carry DS
Where do I order the grip mod?
Call up Springfield customer service and order one. They aren't listed online anywhere.
Thank you
@@EngineersArmory did it match up without any issues?
@@christophernewsom8898 It required some minor fitting. Nothing too bad. Took maybe 20 minutes to fit it like I want. One side of it wouldn't have allowed the grip screw bushing thru without fitting. Not a drop in part (no part on a 1911/2011 really is). At some point I plan on making a prodigy grip module installation video. When I buy my next budget 2011 project haha.
Where in the hell you get an OEM Prodigy grip for $39 beans?
I got a guy... I meet him in a dark alley.... jk call Springfield customer service. They'll sell ya one.
Curious. Why did you change the front sight?
Great vid. Btw. Good job👍
I explain at 5:54.
@@EngineersArmory ty
Do you do custom work ?
Only on my own guns.
Man that sucks 🤦🏻♂️
Keep up the good work I subbed to your channel 💪🏽
@@deeone5231 much appreciated! Yeah this is a hobby for me. Its fun. Good way to ruin a hobby is turn it into a business haha.
I hear you man
Keep up the good content 🫡
Is the the factory front sight?
The factory front sight is green fiber optic. I put the all black one on myself.
@@EngineersArmory gun looks great when you installed the staccato trigger did you have to do any tuning to the sear spring? Or just drop it and and giver er hell and is that a Glock rear sight on the rmr plate?
$39 is insanely cheap wow. Did that include shipping?
not including shipping. But they didn't charge me for shipping on my first order. The other one they charged $10. Still a killer deal. The mag catch, hardware, and MSH were dirt cheap too.
Already! Noce
Would you rather buy and build this Mac the way you did for 1200, or would you rather buy a used Prodigy for 1000 and spend 200 bucks on replacing the MIM parts? What’s your personal opinion? I just found your channel about a month ago, but so far I’m lovin the content and your capabilities. 💯🔥🫡👍🏻👍🏻
I appreciate the kind words and glad you're enjoying the content!
That is a damn good question. Tough choice.... Still the MAC9. I have done a full tune up on a 4.25 prodigy, had my hands on every part. The Prodigy is a good gun and a great starting place for a project. Minimum I would want to replace the trigger and thumb safety in addition to the ignition kit. $150 for an EGW ignition kit, $40 minimum for a trigger, $80 minimum for a thumb safety set. I would also want a magwell - add another $60. Thats $330 on top of the cost of the prodigy which maybe you can get for $1000, but new they are $1200+. I still think the MAC9 is a better deal for me because I do my own work.
However if you want better performance out of the box, the Prodigy is the way to go. The MAC9 (out of the box) feels worse than a factory Glock I'm not kidding. A Prodigy with an ignition kit would be a damn solid gun too. You also don't need the ignition kit in the Prodigy unless you want some crazy sub 2.5# trigger or you are going to put like 10k+ rounds thru it. The MIM parts are high quality and clean up well. I got an awesome 3# trigger on the one I tuned up. Depends on your wants, needs, budget, gunsmithing skils, etc.
I like the general fit and finish of the prodigy better. I like the heavier barrel. They generally have better tolerances than the MAC9. The grip module is way better - thats why I put one on this MAC9 haha.
Rambled. Anyways that wasnt really a definite answer. For me - the MAC9. For anyone else... I cant say.
@@EngineersArmoryive made the right choice for myself then. I'll just juice up my prodigy and skip on a mac or tisas. Thanks for the awesome content. Very very useful info for future decisions.
@@Bedbassandbeyond Yeah, if you already got the Prodigy, just modify and tailor that to your liking. Its a great gun! thanks for watching and commenting!