This is very inspiring. I want to try grafting this winter. I watched my dad doing a lot of grafting on fruit trees growing up in Argentina but never tried it myself. Time to give it a shot. Thank you for sharing your art. Cheers from Tuscany. Carlos
Sounds quite similar although I'm far from expert. I've seen similar birds but with orange necks. Never observed them while they are singing. Thank you Pawel!
Absolutely incredible demonstration (as always) and fantastic background scenery. Looks like I need to try my first grafting in 2023. Now I just need to find something to do it on and do it with. Cheers and all the best for 2023, Xav
Thank you! Yes it is, they are quite closely related, but it's not the easiest graft and it is not certain that it will live for as many years as the pine on pine grafts. Cheers!
Re Happy New Year, long time no see hope your well and staying safe. That’s absolutely amazing what you just did with those trees, its very impressive my friend. 👍🏼👌🏼👍🏼
When you graft 2 scions on one branch close to each other I am suggest that you make first graft higher and second lower. This is helping with tying with parafilm. Top of the scion doesn't interrupt. At least it's help me when I am grafting.
Im really surprised you dont cover the needles with parafilm to maintain moisture.... Sure you already have naturally..... great video. Two questions.... Do you cover grafts in summer?? Do You put grafts in a plastic bag in summer??? Another one.... Full sun??? Thanks in advance.
That technique is applicable when you don't have a greenhouse, a humidity chamber. I have my grafts under growlights and constantly at a humidity if 80% or higher. No need to protect the needles from desiccation. If I graft field trees I will use paeafilm or zip lock bags to maintain moisture. Cheers!
@@BONSAIenCORTO / Esos datos son fundamentales para entender los trabajos, desde luego. Un placer coincidir contigo de nuevo en canales de Bonsái. Estás metido en todos los saraos 😉 ¡Salud!
Thank you Carlos! If you use captions - subtitles, I explain everything! This is winter grafting and all the grafts go into a greenhouse with temperature range from 13 to 16 degrees Celsius and humidity 85 to 95%, until April. Cheers!
You have to cut through the cambium. If you don't, then there is a chance the rootstock tree will heal without connecting to the scion and thus rejecting it. Cheers!
Probably to protect the scion from the sun? My trees stay in a basement greenhouse with grow lights. No need to protect them. They have ideal conditions there. Cheers!
Every genus and every species has its own time-line. Five needle pines are usually first, probably on 3 weeks one can see signs of swelling. Two needle pines take a bit longer maybe 2 more weeks. While mugo might show much faster sometimes. However scions can fuse and succeed without growing. Even if that happens, a successful graft will make it through summer. On September all of the ones that look alive, are successful and they will probably produce new growth next spring. In summer grafting, the failed grafts will lose color within a week or two, so you know faster! Cheers!
Hello, I recently tried grafting pinus parviflora on to pinus sylvestris roots, same way as you are grafting at the end of the video. Do you know if Japanese white pine will successfully adhere to Scots pine ? Thanks for the videos, I like your channel and style of your videos very much. ❤
Thank you Rob for the kind words! Of course it will! Not only that, the needles you are going to get a year after the graft will be very interesting. Some say that you graft 5 needle pines only on 5 needle pines but they are wrong. It's much easier, yes, but if you have good technique and after care, grafting 5 needle pines on 2 needle pines is almost as easy and the results are great. The one you saw in the end of the video, has 3cm (more than an inch) of new growth now, in 3 buds. Cheers!
2 Nd question if it is legal to make this now after the plant musbe sheltered from the sun add how many months are needed for the result if everything is ok , regarding layering lnotice that you use the right live sphagnum moss . thanks if you answer a nice day
Hello Enrico! If I understand correctly, you ask about the graft aftercare. If you have a greenhouse with very high humidity, supplemental light and tamretures 12-18 deg Celsius you put the understock in for 2 weeks to wake up as in if it was spring and then you graft and keep the grafts in there for at least 2 months. If not it's better to graft in very early spring, after the latest frost in your area, keep the graft in a bag with some moss to keep humidity levels up and definatly out of direct sunlight. In the nort part of the house or under a big tree. No sunlight. If after 2 months the scion is alive, even if it did not grew then you have success. Gradually open the bag more and more to expose the scion in normal condition throughout a cool rainy week. I suggest no direct sunlight for the first summer but as the tempratures fall in autumn, you can put it under the sun. About moss, yes I do have a lot of moss in the garden and on the mountain, so that's what I use. Works great! Cheers!
No, just 11 years in the ground. No irrigation no fertilizer but full sun. Pinus nigra grows fast in my garden, as halepensis, pinaster, brutia and surprisingly sylvestris. I might get a meter of new growth on the leader on a good season. That flattens the trunk really fast.
Yes. Specifically for this tree I cut it's main trunk in early June of 2021 so that it produces a lot of back budding in the summer and prepare it to lift it from the ground next spring. It worked. It back budded a lot and in spring 2022 I lifted it and it responded perfectly. In the beginning of the video you can clearly see the chopped main trunk while I plunk needles.
Depends on the genus and the species. 5 needle pines are usually the first to swell. Then 2 needle pines with mugo being usually first and thunbergii usually last. Parviflora might start to swell as fast as 3 weeks, mugo 4 to 5 weeks and thunbergii with sylvestris might take longer.
5th of January Bob. Day length 9 hours 40 minutes. Temperature unfortunately 13 deg Celsius around 55 deg f. Still haven't seen winter here in my garden... Cheers!
I have every detail in the video and the captions subtitles. I put the rootstock in the greenhouse to wake up around 21 of December and I graft around 5-10 of January. Cheers!
Nice question Chris! So, basement greenhouse with artificial lights running 15 hour day, humidity between 75 and 90% and tempratures between 14-17 deg Celsius (57-62 f). They stay there until mid April. I find a rainy couple of days and take them out under a tree's shade to aclimate. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai / Ya entiendo por qué haces los injertos en estas fechas y por qué no cubres las púas con parafilm o con una bolsas para que no se deshidraten... esos cuidados tras hacer los injertos son datos fundamentales para poder entender por qué haces así las cosas. ¡Gracias por compartir! ¡Salud!
@@chuschusco after care is the most important aspect of grafting. That's the thing anyone interested in grafting, should always try to perfect in order to have a high success rate. Cheers!
This kind of graft, veneer graft, takes about a month, in a controlled environment, a high humidity chamber with artificial light and daily misting. But needs one more to stay in before slowly being introduced to outside conditions and complete shade for the summer. Some grafts might be able to get an hour of sunlight by June and full sun from late September, but not all. It's a process that requires a learning curve. Not the easiest task. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai I just started graft mine 10 days ago and 2 hours morning sun, I cover with plastic bag and see some moisture inside, may I ask is it good with that moisture sighn? Some people said is good and some said it’s normal reaction with that moisture
@locpham-ie6ly moisture inside is good. But 2 hours of morning sun is bad. Even minutes of direct sunlight will fry the graft way before it gets to fuse. Now is really the worst time to graft in the northern hemisphere. It is way to hot. For grafting you need very low temperatures. Lower than 20C. Now, even in full shade, is too hot. I'm afraid they will fail. You should try again in September, or when your day temperatures doesn't go higher than 20C. Good luck!
@locpham-ie6ly I'm sorry, the grafts will fail. When the sun hits the bag, the temperatures inside rise to insane levels. No conifer graft can survive this. At least put the tree in full shade. No direct sunlight. Still chances are bad this time of year. But if you succeed let me know. It will be a beautiful miracle! But try again in mid to late September or even October, when temperatures are lower.
The wire mainly is used to keep the tape from unfolding. I found that doing a knot can be prone to unfolding or lose tension. But at the same time, the wire puts nice tension on the graft ensuring that there is good contact. I had 100% success rate on my summer grafts using this exactly. If you plan to water from above, you might need to insulate the gap the tape leaves on top so that water won't get in. You can do that with healing paste. Cheers!
Whenever is time to remove the parafilm tape. In winter grafting that can be in July to October. For summer grafting as soon as early December or even November.
Yes, it is plastic. It is a training pot. This tree was growing in the ground as a landscape tree. A year and a half ago, I dug it up and put it into this plastic tub, to start training it as a yamadori prebonsai. In March it will go into it's first ceramic bonsai pot. Cheers!
Grafting takes time. The last graft you saw in the video has stated to swell, so it looks successful. It is five needle pine. But not all species are that fast. Thunbergii and sylvestris will take longer to show signs of growth. Proper results will be visible in March.
Please enable captions - subtitles
This is very inspiring. I want to try grafting this winter. I watched my dad doing a lot of grafting on fruit trees growing up in Argentina but never tried it myself. Time to give it a shot. Thank you for sharing your art. Cheers from Tuscany. Carlos
Beautiful Tuscany! Be careful though, grafting can be quite addictive! Thank Carlos!
Thank you for sharing vidio bonsai🙏👍👍❤️
You are welcome mate!
Ciao caro. Scusami per il ritardo nel vedere il video, purtroppo mi è sfuggito. Complimenti, lavorazione stile Gradevolissimo.
Thank you Giovanni! Ciao!
👍 Great video, thanks for sharing. It is very enjoyable to watch your videos.
Thank you Milos! I appreciate it! Good luck with your project!
It was very pleasant to both watch your work and listen to the chaffinch singing.
Thank you very much! I'm really interested in finding out the species of the birds in the garden. Are you certain these are chaffinch songs?
@@ArkefthosBonsai Let's check this: ua-cam.com/video/hxS4VgHk73U/v-deo.html
Sounds quite similar although I'm far from expert. I've seen similar birds but with orange necks. Never observed them while they are singing. Thank you Pawel!
@@ArkefthosBonsai np. I'm amazed watching your beautiful land as in full spring.
Thank you! Still not winter here. Maybe we get some cold weather next week, but still, not winter...
Indah sekali bos
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Absolutely incredible demonstration (as always) and fantastic background scenery. Looks like I need to try my first grafting in 2023. Now I just need to find something to do it on and do it with. Cheers and all the best for 2023, Xav
Thank you once more Xavier! Good luck with your grafting adventure, but be careful, it's quite addictive!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Ive just discovered using rafia and that is now very addictive!! Expanding skills :)
Expanding skills and pushing the limits is really important, since these trees will continue involving for life. Cheers Xav!
Nice work!
Thank you Jelle!
素晴らしい👍💕
ありがとう!
Hi ! Beautiful video! Is possible grafting spruce on a pine trunk? Tnx
Thank you! Yes it is, they are quite closely related, but it's not the easiest graft and it is not certain that it will live for as many years as the pine on pine grafts. Cheers!
@ tnx a lot greetings from Italy
Re Happy New Year, long time no see hope your well and staying safe. That’s absolutely amazing what you just did with those trees, its very impressive my friend. 👍🏼👌🏼👍🏼
Happy new year Harry! Thank you! We will know how successful this is in a month or so! Best regards!
Thanks
You're welcome!
When you graft 2 scions on one branch close to each other I am suggest that you make first graft higher and second lower. This is helping with tying with parafilm. Top of the scion doesn't interrupt. At least it's help me when I am grafting.
I completely agree Likasz! But sometimes plans change and one might have to adapt! Cheers mate!
Like and thank you.
Your welcome Gloria!
Un saludito Gloria.... ya veo que no soy el único. Jejejejejeje
@@BONSAIenCORTO uy!!! Tu por aquí tambien jajajajajaj un saludiño de vuelta!!!
@@gloriablanco7856 / ¿También? ¿Habrá algún canal de bonsái en el mundo donde no te encuentras a este hombre? 🤣🤣🤣
¡Salud!
@@chuschusco uy!!! Anda que tu tambien... Jejejeje, un saludito.
Sangat luar biasa👍🙏
Thank you Chunk!
Im really surprised you dont cover the needles with parafilm to maintain moisture.... Sure you already have naturally..... great video. Two questions.... Do you cover grafts in summer?? Do You put grafts in a plastic bag in summer??? Another one.... Full sun??? Thanks in advance.
That technique is applicable when you don't have a greenhouse, a humidity chamber. I have my grafts under growlights and constantly at a humidity if 80% or higher. No need to protect the needles from desiccation. If I graft field trees I will use paeafilm or zip lock bags to maintain moisture. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Ok, so you have great tools to get the best results.... ok. Now I understand maybe more things.... ok. Thank you, really thank you.
Your always welcome!
@@BONSAIenCORTO / Esos datos son fundamentales para entender los trabajos, desde luego.
Un placer coincidir contigo de nuevo en canales de Bonsái.
Estás metido en todos los saraos 😉
¡Salud!
@@chuschusco Gracias por dejar el comentario.
Tutto molto spettacolare e accurato. Paesaggio, essenze, cure attenzionate al centimetro.
Thank you Giovanni! Beautiful words!
Muy buen video, Cuando lo injertas? En invierno o en la brotacion de primavera?. Gracias y un fuerte abrazo desde Argentina.
Thank you Carlos! If you use captions - subtitles, I explain everything! This is winter grafting and all the grafts go into a greenhouse with temperature range from 13 to 16 degrees Celsius and humidity 85 to 95%, until April. Cheers!
Ciao! Quanto devo tagliare col coltello per fare l’innesto?tagliò solo la corteccia superficiale o bisogna arrivare alla vena? Grazie
You have to cut through the cambium. If you don't, then there is a chance the rootstock tree will heal without connecting to the scion and thus rejecting it. Cheers!
Why did you not use any foil on the scion? I saw other wrap the scion in foil...
Probably to protect the scion from the sun? My trees stay in a basement greenhouse with grow lights. No need to protect them. They have ideal conditions there. Cheers!
How long will it take for you to know that the graphs took?
Every genus and every species has its own time-line. Five needle pines are usually first, probably on 3 weeks one can see signs of swelling. Two needle pines take a bit longer maybe 2 more weeks. While mugo might show much faster sometimes. However scions can fuse and succeed without growing. Even if that happens, a successful graft will make it through summer. On September all of the ones that look alive, are successful and they will probably produce new growth next spring. In summer grafting, the failed grafts will lose color within a week or two, so you know faster! Cheers!
Hello, I recently tried grafting pinus parviflora on to pinus sylvestris roots, same way as you are grafting at the end of the video. Do you know if Japanese white pine will successfully adhere to Scots pine ? Thanks for the videos, I like your channel and style of your videos very much. ❤
Thank you Rob for the kind words! Of course it will! Not only that, the needles you are going to get a year after the graft will be very interesting. Some say that you graft 5 needle pines only on 5 needle pines but they are wrong. It's much easier, yes, but if you have good technique and after care, grafting 5 needle pines on 2 needle pines is almost as easy and the results are great. The one you saw in the end of the video, has 3cm (more than an inch) of new growth now, in 3 buds. Cheers!
Thanks for replying, I appreciate your thoughts on the subject . 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I wish you luck with your grafts!
@@Rob.P974any news on success on your try JWP to sylvestris?
There is no reason for this to fail, other than a bad graft. With good technique, this will be successful. Still, Rob any news on that?
2 Nd question if it is legal to make this now after the plant musbe sheltered from the sun add how many months are needed for the result if everything is ok , regarding layering lnotice that you use the right live sphagnum moss . thanks if you answer a nice day
Hello Enrico! If I understand correctly, you ask about the graft aftercare. If you have a greenhouse with very high humidity, supplemental light and tamretures 12-18 deg Celsius you put the understock in for 2 weeks to wake up as in if it was spring and then you graft and keep the grafts in there for at least 2 months. If not it's better to graft in very early spring, after the latest frost in your area, keep the graft in a bag with some moss to keep humidity levels up and definatly out of direct sunlight. In the nort part of the house or under a big tree. No sunlight. If after 2 months the scion is alive, even if it did not grew then you have success. Gradually open the bag more and more to expose the scion in normal condition throughout a cool rainy week. I suggest no direct sunlight for the first summer but as the tempratures fall in autumn, you can put it under the sun. About moss, yes I do have a lot of moss in the garden and on the mountain, so that's what I use. Works great! Cheers!
Did you make something special to grow this monstrous trunk? I mean ground, fertilizer, pruning etc?
No, just 11 years in the ground. No irrigation no fertilizer but full sun. Pinus nigra grows fast in my garden, as halepensis, pinaster, brutia and surprisingly sylvestris. I might get a meter of new growth on the leader on a good season. That flattens the trunk really fast.
@@ArkefthosBonsai Ok but apex? You said it can grow 1m per year so in one point you cut it right?
Yes. Specifically for this tree I cut it's main trunk in early June of 2021 so that it produces a lot of back budding in the summer and prepare it to lift it from the ground next spring. It worked. It back budded a lot and in spring 2022 I lifted it and it responded perfectly. In the beginning of the video you can clearly see the chopped main trunk while I plunk needles.
Great work, what tape do you use?
Thank you! Parafilm tape. Had no label on it. Cheers!
How long would you expect these grafts to take?
Depends on the genus and the species. 5 needle pines are usually the first to swell. Then 2 needle pines with mugo being usually first and thunbergii usually last. Parviflora might start to swell as fast as 3 weeks, mugo 4 to 5 weeks and thunbergii with sylvestris might take longer.
What was temperature and length day during this recording?
5th of January Bob. Day length 9 hours 40 minutes. Temperature unfortunately 13 deg Celsius around 55 deg f. Still haven't seen winter here in my garden... Cheers!
😍
In which week of which season are you doing these grafts?
I have every detail in the video and the captions subtitles. I put the rootstock in the greenhouse to wake up around 21 of December and I graft around 5-10 of January. Cheers!
What will the after care be after you have completed all grafts?
Nice question Chris! So, basement greenhouse with artificial lights running 15 hour day, humidity between 75 and 90% and tempratures between 14-17 deg Celsius (57-62 f). They stay there until mid April. I find a rainy couple of days and take them out under a tree's shade to aclimate. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai / Ya entiendo por qué haces los injertos en estas fechas y por qué no cubres las púas con parafilm o con una bolsas para que no se deshidraten... esos cuidados tras hacer los injertos son datos fundamentales para poder entender por qué haces así las cosas.
¡Gracias por compartir!
¡Salud!
@@chuschusco after care is the most important aspect of grafting. That's the thing anyone interested in grafting, should always try to perfect in order to have a high success rate. Cheers!
So how long the graft will be taken? I am still beginner
This kind of graft, veneer graft, takes about a month, in a controlled environment, a high humidity chamber with artificial light and daily misting. But needs one more to stay in before slowly being introduced to outside conditions and complete shade for the summer. Some grafts might be able to get an hour of sunlight by June and full sun from late September, but not all. It's a process that requires a learning curve. Not the easiest task. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai I just started graft mine 10 days ago and 2 hours morning sun, I cover with plastic bag and see some moisture inside, may I ask is it good with that moisture sighn? Some people said is good and some said it’s normal reaction with that moisture
@locpham-ie6ly moisture inside is good. But 2 hours of morning sun is bad. Even minutes of direct sunlight will fry the graft way before it gets to fuse. Now is really the worst time to graft in the northern hemisphere. It is way to hot. For grafting you need very low temperatures. Lower than 20C. Now, even in full shade, is too hot. I'm afraid they will fail. You should try again in September, or when your day temperatures doesn't go higher than 20C. Good luck!
@@ArkefthosBonsai I live in southern California in the US the temperature is 32 C and I graft on black pine
@locpham-ie6ly I'm sorry, the grafts will fail. When the sun hits the bag, the temperatures inside rise to insane levels. No conifer graft can survive this. At least put the tree in full shade. No direct sunlight. Still chances are bad this time of year. But if you succeed let me know. It will be a beautiful miracle! But try again in mid to late September or even October, when temperatures are lower.
why are you squeezing with a wire? Is it possible to use insulation?
The wire mainly is used to keep the tape from unfolding. I found that doing a knot can be prone to unfolding or lose tension. But at the same time, the wire puts nice tension on the graft ensuring that there is good contact. I had 100% success rate on my summer grafts using this exactly. If you plan to water from above, you might need to insulate the gap the tape leaves on top so that water won't get in. You can do that with healing paste. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai And when to remove the wire?
Whenever is time to remove the parafilm tape. In winter grafting that can be in July to October. For summer grafting as soon as early December or even November.
@@ArkefthosBonsai Where you live ?
Southern Greece, high up in the mountains, 900m elevation.
it looks like a plastic pot ? Is it possible ?
Yes, it is plastic. It is a training pot. This tree was growing in the ground as a landscape tree. A year and a half ago, I dug it up and put it into this plastic tub, to start training it as a yamadori prebonsai. In March it will go into it's first ceramic bonsai pot. Cheers!
Et les résultats ?
Grafting takes time. The last graft you saw in the video has stated to swell, so it looks successful. It is five needle pine. But not all species are that fast. Thunbergii and sylvestris will take longer to show signs of growth. Proper results will be visible in March.
Nice work !!!
Я из России. У Вас очень классные видео и отличная работа с деревьями!!!
Thank you! You can see the results on a video I uploaded a few months later, "Grafting updates 2023".
Cheers!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Where are you from?
Southern Greece. Peloponnese peninsula.