WATCH OUT for these FAKE ALDEHYDES used in perfumes
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
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I love aldehydes very much. They can be tricky sometimes. (I mean real aldehydes) c18 can be nice in a sandalwood accord to give that creamy milky feel. Thanx for another great video.
Thank you! I can imagine those two fitting together :)
Really enjoyed your video (as usual). I rather stick to the "fake" aldehydes, since i prefer fruity nuances. But that comes down to personal taste, i guess. I just recreated a personalized version of Guerlain´s Tonka Imperiale and C18 really added to the whole tonka/almond story :)
Thank you! Yes I prefer them often too. And that sounds lovely, cool that it worked.
Thank you Sam! I learned a lot! 🧡
Thank you!
Aldehydes. I still don’t have confidence to use many of them. So damn strong. And the smell just isn’t very attractive to me.
Yeah I'm quite like that too - I rarely use them
@@sammacer I've been meaning to ask if you'd do a video on aldehydes. Also one on the use of more "pungent" raw materials like indole and skatole in perfumery
Agreed, they can definitely be tricky since they can be very "in your face". But Chanel No. 5 was my grandmother's favorite perfume so aldehydes invoke memories of her. Aldehydes seem "bubbly", "effervescent", and "joyful" to me. They're like that very first impression of rose, violet, and jasmine (and to a lesser extent, neroli). The subtle(ish) green and citrus notes also add to that evoked image. I've tended to use them in trace amounts as a booster to that quality or a bit higher if I want to create that joyful quality (like the perfume is saying "hello! I'm so happy to meet you!") where I don't want the accord to be floral but still have a fresh quality).
I tried making accord using some fixitives and c11 and results were amazing. I used little bit in floral compounds and it give very good projection and lift up my perfume....hope ambroxan will more value in it
Lovely - and yes, I don’t see why not
I think when you use aldehyde after 300hrs it shows its property together with compound
did you switch c9 and c10? c10 is orange peel aldehyde no?
I don’t think so - I’m going off my personal perceptions. They are similar in regards though so you might find other people than me get orange peel from c10
Hi Sam, thanks for those incredible videos. I did learn a lot. Maybe you can do someday a Jean Carles Method video, explaining different methods to create a professional accord? Do you use the Jean Carles method? If so, it might be interesting to see how this is practically done including the aftermath. Or do you use another method? Where do you get the Accord inspirations? My mathematics at the end of a fragrance development end up like this (0,329% + 1,452%) instead of 0,3% + 1,5%, I wonder what I do differently! you see, I am really into this, and have a lot more to learn. thank you in advance.
I made a video on accords a while back covering most of this, definitely check it out
Loved this!
Thanks!
Hi Sam,
Goodnight
In the Dusk Base formula that it presents, it includes Veratraldehyde that I don't own or know the smell of, but I do have: Isobutavan, Anisaldehyde, Vanillin, Ethyl Vanillin, Methyl Laitona, Ethyl Maltol, Coumarin and Heliotropin.
Are any of these products close or even a combination of some of these products?
I would like to know your opinion.
Thank you very much and grateful for your videos.
Yours sincerely.
Some vanillin and Heliotropin would be the closest :)
Heliotropin with a little vanillin might be close
Beat me to it 😅
I learned a lot! Thank you.
My pleasure
What is the expensive chemical alternative for strawberries aroma in perfume?
There are a number. Strawberry natural by Robertet is an option, but of course you could build your own accord.
@@sammacer build an accord other than using an individual aroma chemicals for a specific aroma in perfume will make that perfume expensive right?
Am looking for a good raspberry accord
What is the difference between labdanum resinoid and Labdanum absolute?
Resinoids are cheaper compared to absolute
What will be the downsides of resinoids?
The resinoid is just a different processing method omitting the alcohol extraction step. As with all raw materials, you should evaluate them to decide which you prefer
@@sammacerwhich will you prefer?
Do you prefer absolutes to use in budget perfumes?
Thanks, very good video!
Thanks!
Hi Sam did you have chance to make "mystikal"? Quentin Bisch is using it to make long lasting frankincense scent in "amouage purpose" there is no much info on the internet about this. I see that c12 mna has to be oxydized in order to get olibanum like scent. Do you know what is the best and easiest way to do that? I would rather buy it as finished aroma, but I do not see that anyone is selling it.
No idea about the chemistry of that but I’d love to get a chance to smell the molecule
When i try to buy weighing scale i saw two different scales of 1mg
One is with load cell technology and other one is with magnetic base technology which is more accurate than load cell but magnet base cost me arround 350$ and load cell cost me arround 150-200$
What is your opinion on this?
Should i go for magnet base or load cell base
Both are 1mg scales
I cannot help you unfortunately, I’m not familiar with the different scale mechanisms
Hello. Thank you for your very good videos, I just want to start perfume making. I have a distillation machine and I have extracted a large number of essential oils myself, my question is, are these natural essential oils suitable for making perfume or should there be a change in them?
They should be fine
hey how to make barbershop smell
Try a classic cologne style formula
Is the C10 what many people refer to as an "ozonic" aldehyde?
I’m not sure - I wouldn’t say so myself but I can’t talk for other people
@@sammacer Thanks for responding. Specifically, I refer to that sparkle ozonic note in L' Eau Serge by Lutens. It might be the Iso E combination with the aldehydes, but I always imagined it as a C10.
Hi Sam , thankz for all your videos , are very good :) ; a have a question , what molecules could buy for have a good incense smell ? thankz dude
Thank you! That’s a tricky question since incense is made in as many aromas as perfume
@@sammacer Thankz Sam , but something like incense touch?
Will you be releasing an Android version of your perfumery app?
There doesn't seem to be much out there in the Android system.
Yes hopefully
Real aldehydes are reactive and irritate or cause allergy, they also oxidize with oxygen from air to form carboxylic acids which are less volatile.
Not necessarily too reactive or oxidising to prevent use in perfume
Great video 📹 👍
Hi Sam I m new to your channel.I have few queries can I ask?
Of course - the best place to ask is in the discord group (link in description)
Can you link me to the scale that you use
It’s a Kern EMB 200-3
I have more than 5 different Aldehydes
Nice!
@@sammacer MELON ALDEHYDE,INTRELEVEN ALDEHYDE,CARDAMOM ALDEHYDE,AMYL CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE VERNALDEHYDE®PHENYL ,ACETALDEHYDE DIMETHYL ACETAL,Myrac Aldehyde,ALDEHYDE SUPRA,Aldehyde C-18 COCONUT,Aldehyde C-12 MNAAldehyde C-14 ,Aldehyde C-12 Lauric,ACETALDEHYDE ETHYL LINALYL ACETAL A.K.A ELINTA,ALALDEHYDE C-10
@@sammacer those are mostly all the different types of Aldehydes I have
Sam my mate I want to buy your perfume pack materials it’s always sold out sort me out mate. Your doing a good job lad keep the good fight going.
Cheers mate - I’m currently in negotiations with a raw materials supplier about making a new starter kit. I am trying to get it out as soon as possible but I am relying on 3rd party timeframes. When that’s released it will replace the one my store (which will not come back in stock).
@@sammacer you beauty Sam keep going lad
@@sammacer is the lux e Terra store