Hi Alex. Can't really guess at the overheating. I had a buick that had a blocked radiator. While limping it back from it's first long trip I stopped at a service area and sprayed water onto the rad. The water evaporated off but in patches. I could clearly see which tubes were ok as the radiator dried there, the parts that remained wet were where the radiator was blocked. So next it gets hot try spraying water on the rad and see what happens. Also check to see the timing is right and the vac advance is working. Retarded ignition will cause it to run hot. I was a little surprised to see a cap on one of the rear hubs but no cap on the fronts. Hopefully the fronts are on your spares list. It is a 1/4" drive on the brake adjuster. If you don't have a spanner put a 1/4" drive socket on it (square end) , say an 8mm. Then put an 8mm allen key or hex driver into it and use that. I'm sure you will get it up to snuff. Mart.
Well done Alex, well done Stan for not overheating again! Think you've made Hubnut's day with your sneaky wiper reveal at the end! Great to see brakes still work after brake fluid escapes and shoes trying to follow! Whether 100% will feel like good stopping power compared with even a 90's car is unknown!
Hi Alex Is the ignition timing ok, advancing correctly? Easy for the advance weights or the distributor plates to become seized up over time. This can cause loss of power and possible overheating. A lean mixture will also do the same thing. If you can get to the speedo drive on the gearbox. Disconnect it and spin the cable with a drill. This will eliminate any issue with the gearbox drive. If the speedo still doesn’t work, your problem is with the cable or the speedo head. The speedo can be taken apart. Very often the issue is with a magnet that drives the needle. Over the years, it loses its magnetism and ceases to provide a strong enough magnetic field to 'pull' the needle. It is possible to adjust the magnet closer to the needle and restore the drive. It is fiddly, requires patience and trial and error to get the calibration correct. You can try restoring the magnet by rubbing a stronger magnet to the smaller one in a linear fashion, for say 15-20 seconds. This can help restore the magnetic field of the old magnet. Of course it can be none of the above, and could be some other mechanical issue. Just some thoughts. Good luck.
spent ages sorting out my (mild) over heating, it was head gasket but 'only just' leaking in to a head bolt causing the head to be stuck fast onto it. much mallet work later it was sorted, as you hint easy job to swap head gaskets and the kit ain't too much. SS exhausts are £200 but it means an engine upgrade later would mean that money was wasted. having said that a higher ratio diff would have to be fitted too.
Hi Alex. My first thought was the thermostat as you said. Not sure if the water system on the Standards is pressurised but maybe the rad cap isn't doing its job? I had an overheating issue on an old Ford a while ago, a new rad cap sorted it. I hope you get to the bottom of it. Really enjoying the videos.
The heater does not affect the coolant flow in the block, the heater has a valve that can close off circulation, so coolant will still run around the block. I would be inclined to replace the brake hoses sooner rather than later and to fit new rubbers to the wheel cylinders, and to hone the bores and give the actual pistons a clean up too - the work is done by the rubbers and they need to have a smooth bore to move in, if there is crud, they won't move. If the pistons are covered in crud then they will not move freely in the bore - if you take them all apart you can fully assess the condition of each. I would take care wire-brushing & sanding brake shoes, unless you know as a matter of fact, the linings will probably contain asbestos and you don't want to be breathing any dust in! Good luck with the car, it looks lovely, very lucky to have one in that condition! Thanks for sharing!
Well done! Nice tidy Standard, get some Dinitrol under it and keep it under cover and it should last well, be careful though fella as those old riveted brake shoes almost certainly contain asbestos.
The correct water level is not up to the filler cap, all what will happen is after about 15 minutes of driving the water will start spurting out the overflow pipe! The reason is that the top part of the radiator is the expansion tank.
Thank you. This makes perfect sense. The car wasnt down on power, or misfiring, but would loose coolant from the overflow once up to speed. There may still be a cooling issue, but this certainly makes sense. Will let you know!
It does yes. It lost most of it however after the run the other day, so at the point of filming this it was topped up with water. Im going to flush it again and re-fil.
Your now the third person to suggest this. Its easy to over look the obvious, and it makes perfect sense. I ordered one this morning. Will let you know :)
What`s so motivating in your videos is that all of this work seems to be done by a human, not a hero... 😎🍺. Best wishes from Austria!!!
Hi Alex. Can't really guess at the overheating. I had a buick that had a blocked radiator. While limping it back from it's first long trip I stopped at a service area and sprayed water onto the rad. The water evaporated off but in patches. I could clearly see which tubes were ok as the radiator dried there, the parts that remained wet were where the radiator was blocked. So next it gets hot try spraying water on the rad and see what happens. Also check to see the timing is right and the vac advance is working. Retarded ignition will cause it to run hot. I was a little surprised to see a cap on one of the rear hubs but no cap on the fronts. Hopefully the fronts are on your spares list. It is a 1/4" drive on the brake adjuster. If you don't have a spanner put a 1/4" drive socket on it (square end) , say an 8mm. Then put an 8mm allen key or hex driver into it and use that. I'm sure you will get it up to snuff. Mart.
Good work, the little Standard looks great and well worth putting the time in. Good luck. Bob
Well done Alex, well done Stan for not overheating again!
Think you've made Hubnut's day with your sneaky wiper reveal at the end!
Great to see brakes still work after brake fluid escapes and shoes trying to follow! Whether 100% will feel like good stopping power compared with even a 90's car is unknown!
😁
Nice work Alex. Treat yourself to a nice Mango ice lolly. Can't beat a bit of Mango. 😄
Hi Alex
Is the ignition timing ok, advancing correctly? Easy for the advance weights or the distributor plates to become seized up over time. This can cause loss of power and possible overheating. A lean mixture will also do the same thing.
If you can get to the speedo drive on the gearbox. Disconnect it and spin the cable with a drill. This will eliminate any issue with the gearbox drive. If the speedo still doesn’t work, your problem is with the cable or the speedo head.
The speedo can be taken apart. Very often the issue is with a magnet that drives the needle. Over the years, it loses its magnetism and ceases to provide a strong enough magnetic field to 'pull' the needle. It is possible to adjust the magnet closer to the needle and restore the drive. It is fiddly, requires patience and trial and error to get the calibration correct. You can try restoring the magnet by rubbing a stronger magnet to the smaller one in a linear fashion, for say 15-20 seconds. This can help restore the magnetic field of the old magnet. Of course it can be none of the above, and could be some other mechanical issue.
Just some thoughts.
Good luck.
Well done Alex!
I like Stan, fits the Standard.
Will be in tip top shape in no time at all!
Hi alex, prob a new speedo cable will sort that out, prob worn drive at either end
spent ages sorting out my (mild) over heating, it was head gasket but 'only just' leaking in to a head bolt causing the head to be stuck fast onto it. much mallet work later it was sorted, as you hint easy job to swap head gaskets and the kit ain't too much. SS exhausts are £200 but it means an engine upgrade later would mean that money was wasted. having said that a higher ratio diff would have to be fitted too.
Hi Alex. My first thought was the thermostat as you said. Not sure if the water system on the Standards is pressurised but maybe the rad cap isn't doing its job? I had an overheating issue on an old Ford a while ago, a new rad cap sorted it. I hope you get to the bottom of it. Really enjoying the videos.
Good shout. Yes that is on my to do list.
I was going to suggest rad cap. Shame I'm not nearer as i have a coolant system tester we could of pressure tested cap. @AllThingsAlex
Well done Alex. Another great video. Keep up the good work!
The heater does not affect the coolant flow in the block, the heater has a valve that can close off circulation, so coolant will still run around the block.
I would be inclined to replace the brake hoses sooner rather than later and to fit new rubbers to the wheel cylinders, and to hone the bores and give the actual pistons a clean up too - the work is done by the rubbers and they need to have a smooth bore to move in, if there is crud, they won't move. If the pistons are covered in crud then they will not move freely in the bore - if you take them all apart you can fully assess the condition of each.
I would take care wire-brushing & sanding brake shoes, unless you know as a matter of fact, the linings will probably contain asbestos and you don't want to be breathing any dust in!
Good luck with the car, it looks lovely, very lucky to have one in that condition! Thanks for sharing!
Hoses arrived this morning. Next weekends job!...
Well done! Nice tidy Standard, get some Dinitrol under it and keep it under cover and it should last well, be careful though fella as those old riveted brake shoes almost certainly contain asbestos.
Good call!
The correct water level is not up to the filler cap, all what will happen is after about 15 minutes of driving the water will start spurting out the overflow pipe! The reason is that the top part of the radiator is the expansion tank.
Thank you. This makes perfect sense. The car wasnt down on power, or misfiring, but would loose coolant from the overflow once up to speed. There may still be a cooling issue, but this certainly makes sense. Will let you know!
Well it WILL be a good car at some stage, with all the work that has already been done to it, and what IS GOING to be done!
Have you got coolant as opposed to water in the rad? It looks like there is water to me. Could be a thermostat issue which is what you said I think!
It does yes. It lost most of it however after the run the other day, so at the point of filming this it was topped up with water. Im going to flush it again and re-fil.
new pressure cap needed on radiator top
Your now the third person to suggest this. Its easy to over look the obvious, and it makes perfect sense. I ordered one this morning. Will let you know :)
Axel stand !!!!
After all this time standing still I think he is entitled to get a little hot and bothered after a run
I’d put a new water pump on. It’s not going to do any harm