Just for ur info , i clicked on your video because of the thumbnail 🤌🏻, can u please help where can i find that art or maybe a reference like that , i'm currently working on something like that
In reality when you are standing in fog, things that are close to you are not foggy, whereas when you add a fog in Blender the fog is everywhere, including close by and I've struggled to make it like it is in reality in Blender. But that first tip solves that issue! THANK YOU!
I really like trying to mimic real world cameras. Thank you for the suggestion to use the panoramic camera option. I also appreciate the camera proximity fading trick too. Nice!
I liked the camera trick at the end. I can also remember it easily enough. I'll have to refer back for the sparks and smoke at some point - very helpful!
first one can be done easier with backface culling, if your wall has backfaces, that is: geometry node - "backfacing" output > color ramp - switch black and white > plug into alpha hope this helps someone :)
For the particle effect, to make it even more realistic it would be better if they do not all light up and glow down exactly the same, some could glow longer or shorter. Therefore I would set some randomness in the lifetime in the particle system settings. And instead of dividing the age by a fixed number, you could divide them by their individual lifetime which you get from the particle info node as well.
Yes you can mix between two blackbody nodes instead of using a colour ramp. I actually considered doing that for this demo but I was trying to keep the runtime of the video around 10 minutes.
@@DECODEDVFX why two nodes? I would just plug in the age of the particle to the temperature of the blackbody node (after mapping it in some way, of course)
WOuld you consider doing a geometry nodes tutorial? It looks so complicated and I cant figure out why we are connecting one dot to the other. What the logic is and how it works is still a mystery to me.
Clipping distance will clip any item that gets near the camera. You'd have to change the clip distance if you wanted to zoom in close to any other objects.
Came here to say the same thing. The technique shown in the video would be so tedious if you need to do this with multiple materials. The fading fog effect is one example where the clip start wouldn't suffice, but animating the object's opacity would still be a faster solution in that scenario.
Thanks that's cool, but I am thinking that in the forum's some one mentioned that if you parent a box to the camer with a boolmodifier..that can work also ?.
To me, the title is rather misleading and I am apparently the only one to feel like this. But if THIS is what makes Blender "easy", then I don't want to know about the hard stuff... That's the usual advanced convoluted trickery we are used to using in whatever 3d software we work with. But nothing "easy" about it.
Question for anybody who knows. . . Through trial and error, I now have a project whose settings I rather like. Render, Camera, Compositor, everything. I want to make other projects with these settings. Is there a way to apply all of this to a new project file, or am I better off making and editing a copy into a new scene (deleting old geometry, Keyframes, Materials, etc)?
My word! Your computer renders 1024 viewport samples, with all that you have going on, faster than mine renders 25 samples of an untextured default cube.
Why not just use backface culling for the first problem? Use backface as a factor between transparency and your shader, it will hide all flipped normals. This takes fewer nodes than your method.
I'm sure you've thought of this but for the first tip, isn't there a camera clipping feature in Blender? (I'm new to Blender, I'm coming from 3DS Max).
@@DECODEDVFX I thought of clipping too, I would have showed that in the video as well - because it is much much easier than building this shader setup and most of the time clipping is sufficient. In your room for example, you can set the clipping so that the wall disappears but everything else (unless it's a picture frame hanging on that wall) is still visible - because in most cases everything else inside the room is further from the camera. And due to the viewing angle of the camera, being very close to the wall only needs a very short clipping distance to have "peephole" in the wall.
@@DECODEDVFX - Cool, thanks for replying. I guess I shouldn't get nitpicky over tutorial/tips videos. Still like watching your videos, although I haven't gotten any time to mess with Blender lately.
For the first case and tip with the camera proximity. Why not just use back face culling? It wouldn’t work for the fog card of course, but it would have been easier for the first case
I came here to say the same thing! In the 'camera going through the wall' scenario I think backfacing is much simpler - just plug it into the Alpha node and away you go. If it doesn't work then either flip your normals or add an Invert node into the chain. This way you don't have to deal with light paths, reflections etc. and everything else remains in the scene as long as it's normals are facing out.
As someone that got into Blender after being a professional photographer, I can't believe I've never noticed that the perspective camera doesn't warp the image like a real camera lens...
Camera clipping applies to every object, which isn't usually ideal if the camera is moving around a lot. This technique allows you to exclude only certain elements based on material.
I had no idea what to name this video. It's a random jumble of tips, but I hope you find them useful!
You’re doing your best. The title I think is good and will grab readers attention. 🙂
Just for ur info , i clicked on your video because of the thumbnail 🤌🏻, can u please help where can i find that art or maybe a reference like that , i'm currently working on something like that
@@mini.aakash there's a link to the photos scan I used in the description.
@@DECODEDVFX would you also mind dropping a link for your pc build/specs list?
Ryzen 5950x, RTX 4090, 32GB DDR5 RAM, 3TB of SSD storage, 1200w PSU, Arctic Liquid Freezer II CPU cooler.
That wall trick is great!
I use it all the time.
In reality when you are standing in fog, things that are close to you are not foggy, whereas when you add a fog in Blender the fog is everywhere, including close by and I've struggled to make it like it is in reality in Blender. But that first tip solves that issue! THANK YOU!
This video is absolute gold. A concise video packed with useful tips and tricks with great demonstrations, and I've not them anywhere else. Thank you
I really like trying to mimic real world cameras. Thank you for the suggestion to use the panoramic camera option.
I also appreciate the camera proximity fading trick too. Nice!
I think you could use the camera clip start value for better and easier results.
I was curious about that too. That was my first go to idea.
I liked the camera trick at the end. I can also remember it easily enough.
I'll have to refer back for the sparks and smoke at some point - very helpful!
first one can be done easier with backface culling, if your wall has backfaces, that is:
geometry node - "backfacing" output > color ramp - switch black and white > plug into alpha
hope this helps someone :)
Camera clipping also works well for this situation. I think.
These are so helpful! Gonna try the sparks one. Thank you
For the particle effect, to make it even more realistic it would be better if they do not all light up and glow down exactly the same, some could glow longer or shorter.
Therefore I would set some randomness in the lifetime in the particle system settings. And instead of dividing the age by a fixed number, you could divide them by their individual lifetime which you get from the particle info node as well.
Nice techs.
Very useful tips... thx!
Can't you just increase camera clipping distance, whats the problem with that approach if you have tried it before?
If you're aiming for realism, you should always use the blackbody node to set the color of hot things (regarding the sparks scene)
Yes you can mix between two blackbody nodes instead of using a colour ramp. I actually considered doing that for this demo but I was trying to keep the runtime of the video around 10 minutes.
@@DECODEDVFX why two nodes? I would just plug in the age of the particle to the temperature of the blackbody node (after mapping it in some way, of course)
WOuld you consider doing a geometry nodes tutorial? It looks so complicated and I cant figure out why we are connecting one dot to the other. What the logic is and how it works is still a mystery to me.
Great tips thank you.
Trick 1, is there an advantage doing this over using "clip start" in the camera settings?
Clipping distance will clip any item that gets near the camera. You'd have to change the clip distance if you wanted to zoom in close to any other objects.
Came here to say the same thing. The technique shown in the video would be so tedious if you need to do this with multiple materials. The fading fog effect is one example where the clip start wouldn't suffice, but animating the object's opacity would still be a faster solution in that scenario.
Brother I just want to say one thing - Thank You 😊😊
WOW! Absolute gold! thank you for sharing!
Trick 4 (Fisheye): does this only work in the most recent blender version? Couldn't reproduce it in 2.93 and 3.6
Camera z-depth* is nice for emission shaders not blowing out the foreground
Yes, absolutely!
Thanks that's cool, but I am thinking that in the forum's some one mentioned that if you parent a box to the camer with a boolmodifier..that can work also ?.
To me, the title is rather misleading and I am apparently the only one to feel like this. But if THIS is what makes Blender "easy", then I don't want to know about the hard stuff... That's the usual advanced convoluted trickery we are used to using in whatever 3d software we work with. But nothing "easy" about it.
When I switch to Panoramic Camera I lose LineArt effects. Is there a way to use both? Thanks for your tips.
I need the option to like this video four times.
Once will do thanks!
Why not just use the back face culling or camera clipping?
Nice and Professional. thanks a lot for your helpful videos
Question for anybody who knows. . .
Through trial and error, I now have a project whose settings I rather like. Render, Camera, Compositor, everything. I want to make other projects with these settings. Is there a way to apply all of this to a new project file, or am I better off making and editing a copy into a new scene (deleting old geometry, Keyframes, Materials, etc)?
If you go to file>defaults>start up you can have Blender open with an exact copy of your current workspace. Even down to the objects in the scene.
My word! Your computer renders 1024 viewport samples, with all that you have going on, faster than mine renders 25 samples of an untextured default cube.
To be fair, this scene has very little bounce lighting, which allows it to render much faster than other scenes.
On the fading sparks: Is it possible to randomize the fade times a bit so all the sparks don't burn out uniformly?
The particle info node has a random output. You can multiply the strength of the light by that output to get a slightly randomized result.
amazing tips! thanks for sharing!
This is a really useful video. Thanks
i would love to see a unfinished render videos!
These are some great tips. I didn't even know about that other camera mode. Honestly, Blender's menus are like Doraemon's bag.
thanks a lot man!
Very Useful
Great tips!! Thanks.
It's a shame backface culling doesn't exist for renders, feels like a very useful thing to just have as an option
I'm pretty sure there's a node for that now. Try searching "backface" in the nodes.
Why not just use backface culling for the first problem? Use backface as a factor between transparency and your shader, it will hide all flipped normals. This takes fewer nodes than your method.
I'm sure you've thought of this but for the first tip, isn't there a camera clipping feature in Blender? (I'm new to Blender, I'm coming from 3DS Max).
Yes, but it clips everything, which means you can't put the camera close to any other objects in the scene.
@@DECODEDVFX I thought of clipping too, I would have showed that in the video as well - because it is much much easier than building this shader setup and most of the time clipping is sufficient. In your room for example, you can set the clipping so that the wall disappears but everything else (unless it's a picture frame hanging on that wall) is still visible - because in most cases everything else inside the room is further from the camera. And due to the viewing angle of the camera, being very close to the wall only needs a very short clipping distance to have "peephole" in the wall.
the lens curve thing was fairly pronounced, I noticed that that archway above, was curved. When I watch a movie, I don't notice anything like that.
I used a fairly wide lens to show off the effect (30mm). The standard cinema lenses are 35-75mm so they'll naturally produce much less distortion.
@@DECODEDVFX - Cool, thanks for replying. I guess I shouldn't get nitpicky over tutorial/tips videos. Still like watching your videos, although I haven't gotten any time to mess with Blender lately.
For the first case and tip with the camera proximity. Why not just use back face culling? It wouldn’t work for the fog card of course, but it would have been easier for the first case
Beyond my skill level right now, but I'll definitely put this in my watch later and watch it again when I progress a bit. 😅
very good tips!
Great tips! Don’t keep them secret. Solved several of my issues in Blender.
Tip 1 and 4 are Gold
For the first tip why not just use the 'geometry' node's 'backfacing' as a factor to mix both shaders?
Because you don't always want to apply this to back faces, duh:))
I came here to say the same thing! In the 'camera going through the wall' scenario I think backfacing is much simpler - just plug it into the Alpha node and away you go. If it doesn't work then either flip your normals or add an Invert node into the chain. This way you don't have to deal with light paths, reflections etc. and everything else remains in the scene as long as it's normals are facing out.
veri nice tips !
Whoa love the last lens tip at the end. Thank you!!!!
As someone that got into Blender after being a professional photographer, I can't believe I've never noticed that the perspective camera doesn't warp the image like a real camera lens...
Same! There are some good tutorials as well on how to specifically make anamorphic lenses - desqueeze, oval bokeh and all
Nice video! what would be the difference with camera clipping?
Camera clipping applies to every object, which isn't usually ideal if the camera is moving around a lot. This technique allows you to exclude only certain elements based on material.
@@DECODEDVFX Fair enough usally camera clip is enough for me an easier to set, but ill use this as an alternative if its needed
Is the audio out of sync?
Not really. I think the frame rate of the recording doesn't match the export rate, which sometimes gives the illusion of the audio being out.