How NOT To Install Fresh Air Intake/Makeup Air in a Log Cabin Wood Burning Stove - Rocky Mountains
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Whoops, FAIL! Part 2 of the cold air intake system I installed on the log cabin. That video is linked below. Thanks to a GREAT comment by a helpfull viewer my initial install will not work very well once the snow gets deep and it will get deep out here! This video will show you why it won't work and how to install Makeup Air in your log cabin properly. This is a quick video and I hope it helps you on your wood burning stove Fresh Air Intake / Makeup Air install. If you don't get tons of snow like I do, this will not affect your installation.
A few helpful tips for sure. Thanks James!
Original Install video here • Log Cabin Wood Stove C...
#logcabin #woodburingstove #woodstove #cabin
2:21 Snow covers vent.
For those who like to get to the point.
thanks!
Ya I'll talk about that later.
For the combustion air pipe, use 45s rather that 90 degree corners to allow better air flow. Use smooth pipe rather than wrinkly pipe for the same reason. I love your discussion of things needing fixing Thanks
Great video: informative. But, in all woodstove manufacturers literature (installation and code compliance datla), where the fresh air intake is specified: they clearly identify this problem and how to alleviate it. A SNORKLE! That's exactly what you are going to install. A really simple fix! There are other factors that can effect the fresh air intake: the aerodynamics of your house and the property where it stands: if it is such that the air pressure is too low(relative to the interior of the house at the point of the fresh air intake), you could have a draft problem and/or a vacuum). Another factor is the level of the fresh air intake hole: the lowest possible point is the best. Because: 1. Hot air rises. 2. Any airleaks will only effect the coolest air in the house (the coolest air is at the lowest point). 3. Aesthetically it is nicer to have a vent at a low spot where it isn't even as much(the additional snorkel monstrosity can be hidden in various ways. ...and that's about it! I'm out!
😅
It would be fitting to clad that intake pipe with a hollowed out log.
Note: I am replying to you from the Philippines and came from Ontario for the whole winter...early November to early May.
But I will be honest. I miss the joy of struggling with an icy cold woodstove on an equally icy cold day to get enough heat in the cabin before beddy bye time...and yeah...a good slug of Canuck Whiskey to knock the sharp corners off.
My Filipina wife is excited to go to Canada for the first time and experience winter...I just snicker...LOL...out of the mouths of babes.
I know this video is a bit older but I'd suggest one other thing. Increase the diameter of the intake pipe in order to reduce the amount of draw required to get fresh air. If you start off with 4 inch pipe out of the stove, increasing to 6 inch outside the cabin will reduce the airflow friction caused by the extended length of pipe. Unrestricted flow of air to the combustion chamber is essential to establishing a good hot draw overall. Just some thoughts.
@jonmars9559 - if you use a smaller diameter pipe than the exhaust flue pipe you'll get about as much air in as is exhausted. But that air will be moving faster - the venturi effect.
Rule 1 of ventilation - make your exhaust larger than your intake.
Can't get air in if you can't get air out first
Couldn't you have just added a small roof or an open faced enclosure that could limit the amount of snow falling off the roof from blocking the intake? and then what's the downfall to just getting out there regularly and keeping the snow off the wall anyway?
I had been pulling my makeup air out of the crawl space. The hatch way opened to the outside was not airtight so I figured no big deal, until 18-20 below weather hits and that frigid air is getting sucked into the crawlspace. Almost impossible to keep the house warm in those temps, not to mention the possibility of frozen pipes and drains. I ran dryer vent tube around the base of my foundation to the base of my stove (40 feet) and vented it out my hatch way door with a vent fixture. Works great. House is way easier to heat now that the air is only in the tube and not the entire crawl space. When the stove is in use, you can feel the draw at the vent fixture. No problem with snow as the fixture is under a gable end overhang.
You might run pvc or galvanized pipe down and then left or right and just around the corner of the cabin ending in a vented box or even a 5 gallon pail. Some flat spray paint in a color similar to your exterior would help hide it and might be less noticeable than going up the wall.
I got a fresh air intake on my pellet stove at home and it works awesome
Yes this one has worked awesome so far, just got to relocate that intake
You also have a combustion fan with your pellet stove. I wonder how that would work with a fresh air intake for a wood stove, adding a fan. It would certainly make starting a fire easier.
You might want to reconsider using an outdoor air intake in your application for a few reasons. I think there is an additional design flaw/weakness you didn't note in this video, that being that your air intake (3" flex tube constricted further by the wire mesh and outside air vent) is a lot smaller than your 6 or 8-inch exhaust (chimney). The view under the stove showed how small your air intake already is; every pipe and restriction you add further chokes that air supply. If you add several more feet of small diameter piping on the outside to reach up under the eaves, you are going to reduce the air flow to your stove even more. The overall effect you'll get is reduced airflow and capacity to burn the wood.
I couldn't tell very well from your first video but it looked like you never got the woodstove really burning hot and efficient; it looked like more of a smoldering burn. If you were chopping the wood minutes or hours before burning as the video suggested I'd say your principal problem was a poorly seasoned fuel source, which won't be corrected by altering (and constricting) your air supply even further.
The air your stove heats up immediately convects up and is floating up around your ceiling; the combustion air your stove pulls in comes from along your floor area (walk around with bare feet on the cabin floor to confirm). Your cabin still has (and needs) air gaps which allow air flow through for healthy ventilation. I don't think your alterations to the woodstove air intake will measurably change the heat output anywhere near as much as a change to your fuel source.
Hope this doesn't come across as negative; it's mean to be constructive. I've lived in Alberta my whole life and now live and work in a northern area where heating with wood is actually a necessity.
I understand what you're saying about adding pipe and restriction a 4inch dryer vent would be sufficient to feed the 3inch through the wall.
The burn you see in the video is reacting that way because of the damper.
With the makeup air pulling from outside it will not have to pull cold air in from around the windows doors and cracks to feed the fire in the stove.
That's why in the 70s they made all manufacturers change to this design.
I have put a fresh air intake in and only used a 2 inch conduit and have a 6 inch stove pipe and it works great. The outside air expands 1-2 times when heated and my stove burns great.Because the stove is in a basement I put the 2” conduit inside 4” duct and filled the space with foam. I also put one of those aluminum wood shop vacuum vents so I can shut off the cold air. The reason I went though all this is that 8’ of vent pipe into the basement at -20F makes for a very cold radiator.
I've owned this Tribute stove for 15 years,I installed it in our living room, no outside air. Works great,you could put a cold air floor register close to the stove also,I don't think you need it though unless your cabin is air tight.
Hi and thanks for the comment. Yes they are great little stoves. And no, this cabin is definitely not air tight 😄
A fire in a stove is like a vacuum, pulling air in from the house into the fire and sending it up the chimney with the smoke. If there is no fresh air intake for the stove then the fire is sucking freezing cold air into your house from all the little cracks and crevices. There will definitely be radiant heat from the fire yet there will be also cold areas around your doors or Windows. You'll feel the cold air drafts. The fresh air vent will make your wood stove way more efficient, and house more comfortable
My heater wasn't working properly and there was about 2 feet of snow on the ground. So I moved to south Florida, all better now.
Florida, yikes lol 😄
@mcmarshall12345 That is a top 10 solution comment I've ever read!!!! LOL
Needed the laugh thank you
Agreed! 😄
you don't want to put the air intake any higher than than the level of your fire box otherwise it effectively begins acting as a second flue which means you lose all of the benefits of an air intake and it might actually make downdrafting worse.
I don't really have a great solution to offer but one thing that came to mind would be to incorporate the existing vent into what you plan to build providing two air entry sites, one lower and one higher, ideally the higher of the two would have a shutoff to prevent downdrafting while not in use. with this setup you can simply continue to use the lower vent while you are snow free but once that is no longer possible you can open the higher one.
another thought would be to build a small structure on the outside of the cabin to protect the existing site from snow. You could turn it into a tool shed or wood storage, just a thought.
finally your last option would be to simply not worry about it, air intakes are not necessary, once it gets covered with snow you'll simply begin pulling air from inside the cabin instead which it totally fine.
oh and never ever ever put an intake any where nearly as high as the chimney unless you build the intake with the same clearances/ heat shields as you would a chimney, otherwise if you were to pull air from the chimney and exit from the vent you are begging to burn your cabin down. it's hard to say how much lower it needs to be, perhaps there is a code for that I'm not sure, but anything less than 8 feet would terrify me.
Thank you for the info... I would have totally done it the wrong way if you hadn't shared this video!
you can reclaim the space behind the stove by adding a steel plate 5 cm from the wood wall. then you can place the wood stove 5 cm from the plate.
Its better that you only extend your pipe up a few feet. You want the coldest possible air thats why they are usually lower to the ground colder air is able to combust more then hot air. Although in winter im not sure its going to mqke a vig difference. Juat going by the info that has been given to me on my research.
What about using some of the dark brown downspout for going up the wall, it won't look out of place. Or build a shed or doghouse over the intake, just tall enough to be over the snow.
That would work for sure. Thanks for the comment
I was going to use a old dryer vent to pipe that opening from the outside with dryer vent probally run 40 feet to my stoves secondary intake hole on stove
JIMMY, A COUPLE OF INEXPENSIVE SUGGESTIONS FOR YOU IF YOU DON'T MIND SO YOU CAN GET MORE HEAT AND REDUCE YOUR COST OF WOOD:
I hope this gets to you before you make to many expensive changes! : )
First, my assumptions, please correct me if I'm wrong.
1. That this stove has no "heat exchanger" built into it, meaning that there are no separate pipes going around the stove (or inside) and there is no "blower" to move the air through the pipes, heat them, and then go into your log home.
2. And the air intake system that you currently have, ONLY goes into the fire box.
PROBLEM WITH YOUR CURRENT SET UP:
* Your fresh air intake system is a perfect solution BUT, YOU'RE MISSING A CRITICAL PART OF THE SYSTEM!
* You're missing a HEAT EXCHANGER SYSTEM on your stove (unless you said yes to my question above).
IF YOU HAVE A HEAT EXCHANGER SYSTEM:
* Then you need to install a second pipe with a blower... and all your problems are solved and you'll LOVE IT! see below
IF YOUR STOVE DOESN'T HAVE A HEAT EXCHANGER SYSTEM:
* Then you have two choices: 1. make one for your stove (if you're a handy man) or, 2. buy a stove with a Heat Exchanger built into it.
IF YOU ONLY HAVE THE FRESH AIR SYSTEM GOING INSIDE YOUR STOVE, THIS IS THE PROBLEM YOU'RE HAVING:
* The air is being pulled inside your stove by your blower and then going up the chimney.
* It's also pulling all of your heated air in your log home into the stove and up the chimney!
* You're receiving "some" radiant heat and the stove is pretty to look at but, I'll bet that the rest of your log home is cold (unless you're using another type of heater).
* With some changes, you'll be able to heat your ENTIRE LOG HOME... AND REDUCE YOUR COST FOR WOOD!
SOLUTION TO GIVE YOU MORE HEAT IN YOUR HOME & REDUCE YOUR COST FOR WOOD:
1. IF YOUR STOVE DOESN'T HAVE A HEAT EXCHANGER:
* Either build one onto the stove via welding pipes onto it etc
or
* Sell your current stove and buy one that has the blower and pipes "built in".
2. ONCE YOU HAVE THE STOVE WITH A HEAT EXCHANGER:
* You need to install a SECOND PIPE for the air that will be used for the Heat Exchanger!
* You could reduce the size of the pipe you're using for the air that goes into your stove and then run two lines to the outside in the hole you're now using, with a few minor changes.
* One pipe and blower is for air going into your stove, and one pipe and blower is used for air going into your Heat Exchanger.
* And yes, you should keep the same location on the outside, just use a bigger vent on the outside (other people use the dryer machine vents with a screen to keep out rodents) and then cover that entire area with a small wood or metal "a-frame" with vents to keep the snow away from it and plenty of room for air intake. And yes, you'll need to remove the snow once in a while! It makes NO SENSE to make another hole in your log home.
THIS IS CALLED A "POSITIVE AIR SYSTEM" FOR WOOD STOVES AND THERE ARE MANY BENEFITS FOR YOU:
* You get more heat from your blower and heat exchanger because very little air from your log home is going into the stove and up the chimney (you keep the vent on the stove closed at all times because you're using the air from the blower to keep the fire going).
* It's also safer because you keep the stove closed tight and the carbon monoxide is going up the chimney!
* You control how strong your fire is by using the blower for the air that goes into the firebox... and by controlling the fire "size" or "strength", you reduce your cost of wood.
* The hot air from your heat exchanger is now PUSHING HOT AIR THROUGHOUT YOUR LOG HOME & THE COLD AIR FROM OUTSIDE (from windows, doors, vents etc) IS NOW REDUCED DRASTICALLY (aka it can't get in as much).... AND THIS IS CALLED THE "POSITIVE AIR EFFECT." Think of your home as a "balloon" and the air going into the balloon is from your Heat Exchanger.
* Your wood stove should now heat your entire log home comfortably and at a lower cost because of this type of system.
For more info, check out this link:
ua-cam.com/video/zlEMADUz0Ak/v-deo.html
Hope that helps... and you can save a ton of money on wood... and have a warmer home... AND have a very comfortable winter season!
Take Care!
Amen
Retired, Veteran
i dont think you need it and besides it looks ugly. just throw another log on the fire but besure to put it on the bottom so it can burn down, just bustin again. like your videos, what a beautiful cabin
You will find that it wasn’t worth the effort ..
Those stoves use such little air it’s not worth messing around with outside air kits .
Agreed 👍 my point exactly, he doesn't need a ducted combustion air supply ? 400 sq ft. Camp . Nope. He thinks his camp is so tight he's not drawing air ??? 😆 🤣 😂 😹 he's probably pulling 200cfm at the front door alone. It is a air tight stove as well.
@@nickhammer6408 The point would be that he is drawing air. COLD air from every crack with the stove creating a negative pressure in the structure.
@@AdmiralBob I think we have officially exhausted this topic . Lol get it exhaust ...... ed. Ahhh never mind, it wasn't funny.
Snorkel! Maybe out of ABS pipe painted brown to match cabin
Well I live in Alabama so I dont need to worry about the snow problem! Good job man!
You are lucky 😁👍
i just saw your video on the intake and noticed all the upward facing cracks on your log wall. this is where water can get in and make the crack bigger. on my cabin I caulk all the upward facing cracks to stop this. just a suggestion....thanks
New spectator here, really great Vids n Experiments, love it! Also your cabin and oven! If that make up air duct is to much of a headache, easy solution, sell your cabin to me..Here from a super f. LockDown into a LogCabin what dream and royal upgrade for me (us)
Look at exhaust kits for pellet stoves?? You would just be using it as an intake and they are pretty solid and you can add sections to get it up under the eaves. They come with the brackets to mount to the wall and you can probably extend it into your cabin and then make your connection from the rigid pellet stove pipe to your fresh air intake. Many are built with stainless components and would probably last a while. I think you can get them in either 3 inch or 4 inch diameter.
Should probably add that you would want the style that hugs the building as you would want to keep it basically right on the wall or at the most a inch or two off of it just to clear the path of the falling snow from the metal roof.
Thanks for the comment and great information. Have a great weekend 🍻👍
@@JimmyMeatwhistle Pellet vent pipe is more expensive than wood stove pipe because of the stainless. Regular dryer vent is pennies compared to Bvent pipe.
@@jamesglenn520 👍🤠
The difference with pellet and wood burning are kinda opposite of each other . The pellet stove operation is based on the use of vast amounts of air for combustion. It’s basically a forced air incinerator. It forces the air that is needed .
A wood stove only uses the amount of air to achieve combustion. Put the lever on low and the less air is used and the opposite it true when the lever is on high .
These types of stoves don’t use dampers to restrict the heat going up the pipe .
The design it to control the air instead.
I guess my point is that stoves like this has a heat to air usage ratio is so far one sided , meaning that the amount of heat compared to the amount of air for combustion Is not even close , especially with secondary combustion, that’s when it is taken to an even higher level of air to heat comparisons.
Great idea for the fix. Be safe.
Thanks for sharing the fail and the fix. Great video, to the point with no bull .......
Thank you for the awesome comment, much appreciated 👍
Wow you should fill those splits in the logs with some calking ✌🏻🇨🇦
Thanks for the comment. Yeah I have a few to fill for sure,. 🍻👍
@@JimmyMeatwhistle start with the upward facing ones...they are the ones that water can't easily drain from and will rot first.
Do you have a snow splitter above your chimney?
With all of that snow, and your chimney being low, I’d think your chimney would take a beating over time.
There could be another problem.
If the intake is on the side of the house where you get high winds against the house the wind can drive into that vent and into the stove
True, will look into that. Thanks for the comment
How did this change end up working out? I'm curious since I'm thinking of putting a wood stove in my basement and to use a fresh air intake I will need to have a pipe going up, and I wonder if having a vertical run affects the stove's ability to draw air or not. Did you notice any issues after you did the change, if you did it?
what if you just put a piece of a wood on an angle leaning against the wall and over the vent...
Eventually the snow would bury the wood and the intake
@@JimmyMeatwhistle gotcha, I guess I don’t realize how much snow you get up there. I’m in lower Ny state just outside NYC
i found a website talking about how there is no scientific proof that those kits help. true or not? idk. my double wide home has a zero clearance fireplace with the fresh air kit, if comes out underneath, i have covers on the vented skirting panels for the winter, it keeps cold air from blowing threw but its far from air tight. so if it works its a good place for it.
you should keep the air intake on your stove closed only pull air from outside
i have a snow shovel
So the only problem was that it will get covered with snow ?
but isn't the intake point supposed to be below the woodstove? If you install a snorkel, your effective intake point raises considerably above the stove.
Buried In 5 feet of snow, a low in intake just doesn't work.
So the issue was that the fresh air intake was too low on the cabin wall because it snows deeper than its location. So just put it up higher.
Using OUTSIDE air will push warm air out any air leaks using INSIDE air will suck cold air in those same air leaks.
Are you able to notice or even measure an improvement by going with the outside air intake? btw I happen to have a Hearthstone Soapstone stove too, best stove I've ever had!
Hi Lester and thanks for the comment. I'm going to do some in-depth tests this winter and will post that info. Yeah they are amazing stoves, I love it 👍🍻
Thanks Jimmy, I look forward to the results... thanks for the vids!
That's a really good question! It all has to do with carbon monoxide. If the stove is installed in a "manufactured home"(a trailer, mobile home...) the fresh air intake is required by code. So it's a moot point for that configuration. On a regular home in USA the fresh air intake is unrequired. When the stove is burning, it draws interior air through the stove and burns it. If the house is airtight, you will need a separate air intake for the stove. Because if not enough air can be drawn in (for the rate that your stove needs) it will produce more carbon monoxide and possibly "snuff you out"! Most of the time that isn't an issue for a house: they leak plenty of air for the stove, and the process of drawing air from the interior of the house, burning it, and exhausting it out the chimney evacuates stale air from the interior....
Be just like a fresh air intake for a sink. Thanks f for the free knowledge.
Venting
Wow, answered my question!
With the intake positioned so high, wont it create a draw that fights your chimney?
I think my preferred method would be to make some kind of detachable duct on the inside of the cabin and then when the snow covers the vent, remove the duct inside and let the stove draw room air. Either that, or extend the porch with some structure so the vent has some cover.
Build a simple lean-to over it
You dont need a pipe. Just shovel an area and keep it clear. If need be make a box around it.
Hi and thanks for the comment. Shoveling can be a daily event LOL. If I'm not here for a few days or available to shovel I could be shoveling many feet of snow. If I'm not here for a week it could be much worse and coming back to the cabin and shoveling 4 or 5 feet of snow adds to the chore list immensely.
When I arrive at my cabin the first thing I like to do is get a fire going, not go outside and dig out snow, it just adds to the things to do list when arriving at the cabin lol.
Agreed, I usually have enough snow to shovel already lol
you`re doin great.
go Western State!
Great observation! Is there any need for an external shed or lean-to in that location? You may be able to kill two birds with one stone if possible. Stay safe and healthy!
hmm... That would also work, sheltering that intake vent. But it would be buried in snow from that damn roof slope lol. Thanks for the comment my friend and I will think on that idea 🤠🍻
@@JimmyMeatwhistle think BIG! LOL! Just trying to think outa the box buddy! Whatever works for you is all that matters. I was thinking of a 4 wheeler or snowmobile pull thru at first. Makes for a drier/warmer seat when you have to leave.
Yeah and that will be a good excuse to buy a Ski-Doo or four wheeler LOL. It's a good plan for sure and I'm going to definitely think on it
That's a very good idea.
Thanks for the comment 🍻👍
I am rather curious of how the cabin is insulated from the inside? What is the white thing that seems to be put on in between the logs? What kind of insulation is that and how is it made/put there?
From the interior shots there is no insulation in the walls of the cabin. Log face both inside and out.
Yup, just logs 🍻
just box in the vent open at the top, you won't need to run pipe
It gets covered in snow and if the box is open at the top it'll be like a big snow scoop.
brilliant idea
Did you get the makeup air intake rerouted?
Hi James and thanks for the comment. Have not done that yet, have not had the time. And we're lacking in the snow department 😁
Snow is extremely porous! This is why so many people do not suffocate under avalanches! It's very unlikely that the vent covered with snow will make a measurable difference in stove function. If you don't believe it, try your test with the vent blocked!
Haha, your pretty funny
Great info! ty!
@@jimmigill3104 Sy the actual 'intake' feeding the firebox is still below the firebox. (see picture) The cold air intake capture entrance, can be anywhere as long as it is still introduced to the firebox on the bottom, under the firebox, as it's inputted...
Get you a 55 gallon drum of water make you a cool heat up the water
Bro it's fine. Leave ER be!
Thats prob why it wasnt still installed when u got the cabin. Yea your solution sounds solid. Good luck man. I always wondered to about cold air intake, bcoz once the fire goes out your stove transforms from heat puking machine into a heat sucking machine (˘･_･˘)
That's one of the positives to the combustible air intake.
The stove will never draw warm air from your dwelling.
Took you long enough to to propose the solution.
It's either too long or too short, can't make everyone happy 🍻
I don't understand why you need to introduce outside air for your stove ? Your camp can't be that tight. A small ventilation louver operable up high on the wall . Again probably not necessary. You have a volume damper on the stove and a butterfly valve in the stack , You should be able to regulate no problem. The volume damper regulates cubic feet of combustion air.
The theory behind that is if my stove is sucking cold air into the cabin through gaps in the windows, etc. it kind of defeats the purpose? I much rather have the cold air sucked into the stove then into the cabin.
@@JimmyMeatwhistle What I am talking about is pretty normal the louver is only open while burning. Drawing combustion air and make up air , the fresh air you are introducing is beneficial to your health as well. Watch out for Co2. I have never seen a directly ducted wood stove, Not to mention you better snake the chipmunk nests out before you light a fire. Believe it or not when balancing a building air is a huge consideration pressurized plenums, clean air acts Imagine recycling the building air 3 times an hour. Introduce it, heat it or cool it and every 20 minutes exhaust it. PS: I have the same stove manufacturer, mine is bigger and has the side door as well. Soap don't throw heat like just cast iron alone.
I'm lazy, I wouldn't touch anything there, just add your box. It's going to suck what ever air is available and you just want to keep snow off.
The problem with that is if you don't have enough Make-up air the stove will not draft. I'd rather take 30-60min. now than to go out at 3:00am and shovel snow because your fire went out!🥶
exactly, especially in - 40 lol👍
@@JimmyMeatwhistle Thanks for the shout out! Just remove the screen and add a 3-4 reducer and 4in elbow and some pipe with a screen on top to keep critters out.
I've done HVAC for years if you were closer I'd be more than happy to lend a hand ✋
@@jamesglenn520 much appreciated. You have helped me and a ton of people reading all the great info you have posted! 👍🍻
A shovel would move the snow in 5 min?,
How many feet of snow? Depends lol. Who needs more snow to shovel? Not me 🍻
@@JimmyMeatwhistle Also I'd suggest losing the rusty 'louvre' item and just staying with the 1/2" hardware cloth because of the friction to incoming air of the louver item. Also, that every 90 degree bend in effect is adding about 10 feet's worth of impediment to air in the pipe. Use a pair of 45s. All this goes to fans which have louvers on both sides. Chicken wire or hardware cloth can be substituted there too, depending on what we're trying to block
Thanks Nick, that's great info much appreciated 🍻👍
Why not just go through the floor?
Learn how to make biochar in your stove it's good for the garden
Thanks and I will👍🍻
Hollow out a log with your chainsaw
Just put snowprotection on the roof man
Don't go to all that trouble and money. Just keep it shoveled out.
It’s not like a fireplace. Those stoves put way more heat into the room while using very little air . It’s not worth it !!
Holly crap this guy LOVES to talk... Make sure your air intake wont be below the snow, if it is, build a dog house or a riser pipe to get fresh air all the time. DONE, a 4 1/2 min video turned into a 15 second message!
Snorkel
Should have been a 90 second video. With respect, please get to the point.
90 seconds! But then someone would say that I'm talking too fast 😉
Oh man I hope you do an hour long video of the changes!! Lol
I can only imagine how Educational these videos are for a lot of people around the world 🌎
@@jamesglenn520 I am going to for sure! just need some consistent -20 (or more) days and nights and I will have it, done deal lol😁🤠
Get to the point
Well it seems that your fix might be as dumb as your first mistake. If you raise your intake too high it might possibly draw air at least to some degree and cause a back draft, at least at first while you're trying to start the stove. If that does cause a problem you could keep the air intake somewhat low, box it in, and leave the front open for air intake.
Low, you mean like under four feet of snow, yeah. Great Idea 🙄