Biggest thing is do not use Charmin, quilted northern, wet wipes, or other toilet paper that doesn't fall apart when it gets wet, 3 feet down tye drain your tp should no longer even be recognizable as tp, angel soft is a brand that I know is septic safe. That's just in the category or taking steps for preventative maintenance though.
The product I put in has worked for 1 year but it was not able to overcome the damage that had already been done. We will need to excavate to determine if the biomat has broken up or if the lines need to be hydro-jetted.
Best solution is to not use the system for a year and let the biomat eat itself away. Also, make sure your drainfield lines aren't more than 3' deep so oxygen can still get to the bottom of the trenches. And if you have any trees nearby it wouldn't hurt to make sure the roots haven't clogged your drain lines.
@@jbvincent47 we bought a property and are having problems with the drain field not taking water. Upon inspection we found the lines to be up to 10’ below ground level. For the top line and 4’ for the lower line. It’s on a hill. Is there anything you know of that can be done? It’s like they got the inspection done then regraded for a drove way and parking lot above it and filled in over the lines way too much. I’m not sure how to fix this and there’s nowhere to go for a mew field because there’s a stream 50’ from the last line
@@jamesellis5248 So the line is under part of the driveway? The process of adding fill and compacting it for a driveway would definitely severely limit the amount of oxygen the drainfield could get. I'm not sure where you are or the regulations but most health departments would let you do at least a "best fix possible" type of thing to keep you going. The county I work in they won't kick you out of your house but the "non-confirming" repair could get a bit spendy.
I understand why it did not. Basically, the right amounts and types of bacteria do work. If you do not do it right, the problem comes back which is probably what happenedm
What has changed in the last couple of decades with septic systems? Back in the '70s I worked on a number of systems that were 30-70 years old that not only had fully functioning leach lines, but which had *never* been pumped and weren't more than a third full of solids. My personal guess is that all the anti-bacterial soaps and cleaners are killing the tank bacteria and creating the problem. I don't know, but reason would indicate that you shouldn't have to do any major work on a septic system for a very long time.
I can appreciate what you are saying. Since I moved in, I have eliminated bleaches and antibacterial cleansers from the house. I cannot say what was used by the previous owner. Did you ever run into a biomat buildup around any leach lines you worked on?
@@CountryLivingExperience There was some occasionally, but I really don't recall much. If memory serves - and it has been over 40 years since I did any of that type of work - most of the problematic leach beds were in wet locations where water stood or the soil was saturated for much of the year. I was just the kid with the shovel, just dig out the lid, find and open the junction box, locate and expose some of the line to check flow. I really didn't pay a huge amount of attention most of the time.
Yes! 20 years ago I was the first to move in a new construction single family house in Ft. Lauderdale, FL (sandy soil). Small family with regular usage of clothes washer and daily usage of dishwasher. Nine (9) years later someone suggested to empty the septic tank for the first time as preventative maintenance. I paid $300 to suck the contents out only to find out that the "solids" were all they way at the bottom. The company told me that it definitely did not need any emptying. It looked to me that the septic tank could have gone unemptied for another 4 or 5 decades perhaps longer. Oh and the next year the city installed sewer pipes costing me $800 to connect. Naturally the monthly utility bill increased by over 100%. But that's a story for another time.
you really need to treat the system regardless because every drainage - sewer, septic system has buildup which always needs to be eliminated or else water flow will be impeded. There is no way around it...has to be done
Our septic is 60 years old...for the first 55 years it was owned by a couple that grew up in the great depression. They showered twice a week and did laundry once a week. I know because the old man kept a log of water used with notes for 20 years. He used about a quarter of the water we use now with a modern washing machine and 2 kids. Think people just use a lot more water these days and it puts a higher load on the septic systems. With gentle use, most things will last a lifetime.
In my opinion, most of what this guy is saying is only half true, or not true at all. To be clear, all Leaching Fields eventually fail and need replacing. Statistically, 25 to 30 years is the life expectancy of a Stone & Pipe System. To be fair, not all Leachfields or Drainfields use Stone & Pipe. Nevertheless, a properly designed and properly maintained Stone & Pipe Leaching Field, should last about 30 years if you pump out the Septic Tank every 2 or 3 years, and are very careful about the types of cleaning products you buy. Obviously, it's important to check labels when you shop, and never use liquid fabric softener or bleach. Paint is really bad for a Septic System, especially LATEX Paint, but so are solvents like Paint Thinner. Also, Garbage Disposals and Water Softeners are not recommended with a Septic System, but lots of homes have one or both. It suffices to say, if you've gotten more than 3 decades out of your Leachfield/Drainfield, then you've done well, and have nothing to complain about. Regarding Septic System Additives or Septic Tank Treatments, it's completely unnecessary, and isn't going to accomplish anything. You'd be better off pumping your tank a little more often, because that's what allows the Leaching Area or Drainage Area to dry out for a few days. An empty tank can take a week or more to refill depending on the size, and the number of people using it. In fact, a 1500 gallon 2 Compartment Tank could take 10 to 14 days to completely refill. That's a long time for a Leaching Field to go without any water, which can really help the system work better and last longer. I advise my customers to be careful what they put down the drain and flush down the toilet, because feminine hygiene products like tampons, panty liners, panty shields, along with the applicators and wrappers belong in the trash... not your Septic Tank. The same is true for condoms, cotton swabs, cigarette butts, baby wipes, and even dental floss. Anything non-biodegradable should be put in the garbage... not your Septic System. If you're very careful, you could get 40 years or more out of a Stone & Pipe Leaching Field, which is excellent!
Roebic is some great stuff. I've been using it for years, every four months I add two quarts. Cheap insurance ! keeps things flowing and my leach field draining. My system was installed in 1955 and still working great !
@@hayesunified3670 i add mine to the toilets monthly.... obviously cannt hurt to add it to the "D BOX" if you can find it without breaking your "drain lines" or impeding your drain field ;)
Our house/septic is 55 years old. I've lived in my house for 21 years now. Two adults, one bath and we watch what goes down the drains. We had the tank pumped and inspected before the closing. Since then we've had our tank pumped every 3-5 years. This spring we'll have our tank pumped again. I plan on dumping some Roebic down & out the exit baffle. I figure a direct dump like that would get more chompers into the bed, than just a flush down the toilet.
I am not saying the prices that he gave for a drain field are wrong, but they depend heavily on the the region and how much competition the industry has in the area. I own a septic company and I can tell you that drain fields go for around $15 per foot in South Carolina. So $1500 per 100'. Depending on the soil and residential water usage, a three bed room home can run on a 150' system. Check with your local small septic company's about what is the best option in your area. Just about every company that I have had dealings with including myself are very helpful and willing to give you sound advice. Most septic company's are ran by good old country folks. Most importantly, have regular maintenance performed every 3-5 years! Most drain field problems are caused by neglecting the system! At least open up the septic tank every so often and make sure that the outlet baffle is intact and not allowing solids to flow out into the drain field. lastly the only thing that should ever go into a septic tank is two ply toilet paper and what comes out of you! No grease or "flush-able wet wipes". Hope this helps!
Thank you for your thoughtful response. I would be overjoyed with $15 per foot......that is not the case in East Texas from what I have found. I have had the tanks pumped since I moved in 2 years ago and there was no issue before that. I do not know if the previous owner neglected the system but suspect he might have. I will check that outlet baffle more often. I am super careful about what we put in the tank so no wetwipes or grease for sure. I again appreciate the way you responded as most other commenters have been crass and rude causing me to delete them. lol. Have a great day!
@@CountryLivingExperience Here in S. Florida I had a company come in and inject little styrofoam balls along the lines. That broke up the problem. They charged me $5000.00. They couldn't give any guarantee how long it would work. I bought a hydro-jet tip and line for my pressure cleaner both are rated for 3000 psi, so it was low enough not to be a problem for my perforated pipes. That opened all of my lines except one that has roots in it. I'm not sure how to get those out. Anything that would cut those out would probably destroy the pipe.I also had the company install a filter in my septic when they were here cleaning it out.
36% Hydrogen Peroxide . 5 gals in the distribution box . What clogs drain fields the most is the soaps building up layers of soap scum. Most people have their washer machines and dish washer on the septic system . Best thing you can do is remove those very soapy water appliances off your septic system.
BTW, I also learned that the biomat forms when there is lack of oxygen, and disappears when there is sufficient oxygen flow. Therefore terraLift+pouring perforated ceramic beads+pouring in Reobic should remove the biomat. After that, keeping the dirt damp should greatly help as earthworm population grow and their activities will keep the air flowing inside the dirt.
I'll be adding an aerator in my pump tank! After researching and watching my neighbors aeration setup, it's been all too obvious that aerator system works by oxygenating the tank!
@@randythomas3478 just be careful that the aerator pumps can burn out in a year because it has to push air through the thick and dirty water. One alternative is to install a wind turbine on your roof that is attached to the sewer vent pipe on your roof and install another candle cane shaped short pipe on your tank. This allows air to be circulated through with the help of wind. Something interesting to think about
You may want to consider putting a marker stone or benchmark over your distribution box once you find it. It couldn't hoit! Edit: you might also think of drawing up a "master plan" (aka survey) of where things are on the property. Less chance of breaking a water line or something from randomly digging holes to find something.
I was thinking the same thing, like using a paper towel roll to fill with concrete, put on corner of box and on the tanks. I would also think about putting one every 5 or 10 feet between the tank and the box to make it easier. You could also put a small chisel mark on the house 90-degree angle to the box, and even put the distance to it (obviously low near the ground)
This info is invaluable...previous owner drew a diagram which was very helpful. I would not have found the tank without it as the cover was buried. The diagram shows where the D. Box is....I hope I don't need to dig to it; praying this Roebic will work. No back up, just a high water level in tank even after pumping.
My house sat empty for yrs. Out in west texas desert area. Water backs up after running for a while. I have used everything trying to loosen it up. This product too. From root destroyer to some really expensive stuff. I don't have water on the ground either. The air pressure machine to loosen it up. Is last hope before digging.
Just wanted to say thank you for providing what has turned into a forum. Dealing with a 30-year-old failed drainfield and exploring possible solutions in all the comments here. Thanks, everyone! Wow!
Just saw your message this am-don't know why it's just showing up today( 4-18-2024.) I am just putting the finishing touches on a book I haven't put out yet about how I grew my one-man septic tank pumping business into a retirement account worth well over one million dollars. The Terralift section is a major component of the book, which I plan to charge thirty dollars for. I have already contacted Jim K. at Pumper Magazine about using my book as a source for them, and mentioning my book. The Terralift has been restricted to use--but the machine can legally be used for other purposes. I charged $1500. in the beginning, but raised my price to three thousand dollars after an over-joyed customer told me my service was worth much more. I saved him the eighteen thousand dollars he was getting ready to spend to replace his drainfield, and saved the sale of his home to a waiting home buyer. If you want me to reserve a copy of the book for you-let me know. My cell is 774 254-5501. My business was in Uxbridge,MA. where I grew up. I retired in 2013, and am now living in Little River, SC-next to Myrtle Beach. Jack Darling
Very nice guy but I have been told by multiple experts that you should put zero additives in septic systems. I am in Canada and ministry of the environment states put nothing in septic system because they don't work. They are not saying this for environmental reasons, just because does not work and is a scam. Very sorry but this is true.
I redid my own field lines 4-5 years ago... I had access to a larger version of a rubber tracked excavator, still smaller compared to a steel plate track hoe but probably a 5000lb+ machine... so all I had to buy was some diesel fuel, the necessary perforated 4" line, some non perforated 4" line, distribution box, a load of gravel (gravel pit 5 miles away so I get that cheap), geotextile fabric, and of course my labor for the project... Grand total was a tad under $700 which covered 4 50' runs for a total of 200' of field line complete under the dirt... Bear in mind I have contacts and get most everything fairly cheap, no equipment rental, and no labor cost doing everything myself. Also bear in mind... I live in the middle of nowhere BFE, and the compound is pretty much centered on a 180acre plot.... pretty much everything around here is legal for the homeowners to DIY, no building permits; just a certified perc test and casual eyeball by the county guy before you cover everything... In many more "city" areas many permits might be required, as well as an actual licensed & certified "septic" installation company.... check your local regulatory statutes before attempting a DIY septic drain field.
@@jonquis07 It worked to extend the life of the system for about another year. Initially the problem cleared up. However, my system was too far gone for it to completely reverse the damage and I had to replace the leach lines. We did a video on that process too.
Where was this video last week ! 🤦🏾♂️ I had a septic company come out and said my system is failing and that I should consider changing it out , steering at 12k ! Thanks for this video ! God bless you !
Jetting line work to clean leech field lines 34 years in the business .This gentleman is just misinformed ,this is what I hate about Utube videos,misinformation
Great video! I had already purchased the Roebic prior to viewing this video, so I was happy that was the product you recommended. I actually have a 4" cleanout directly to my distribution box, so I plan on adding the product directly. Fingers crossed it begins to break down the biomat!
I actually bought the entire Roebic 4-step program but plan to start with the l'eech and drain field' opener to get things moving then re-start with step 1 - Septic tank treatment. 14 year old system that I had installed when I purchased the property. Unfortunately, it's a rental property and I have little control of what is going down the drain lines. I never knew about the biomat, just figured treating the tank and occasional pumping would suffice. Live and learn!
Mines over 40 and one of them isn't draining. No water in the yard though. I'm going to dig down and follow the exit pipe from the tank and see if there's a clean out at a junction box before getting a new drainfield installed. It went 2 years between pumpings so it must be draining somewhat. I was told $5-6k here in florida, we are high and dry where i live so no raised mound. Oh, i dug a dry well for our washer 1 year ago so that may help. dumping the washer into your septic tank is so stupid. I dug a 6 foot hole, filled the bottom with 2 foot of gravel and dropped a 50 gallon rain barrel in the hole with hundreds of 1/2 inch holes drilled in the sides/bottom. It's been working like a charm. My wife has done 3 loads of laundry and can't fill that barrel before it drains into the ground. Water drains quickly here which helps.
They did a bad job when they pumped your tank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They didn't use a spoon to break up the floating fat/grease at the top of the septic tank. Then this settled to the bottom and when you start using you tank again it floats over the drain and blocks it off.
Any opinions appreciated: I have a 1000 gallon 2 compartment traditional system NO D box just the mainline with leech lines off to one side. No problems regular service until recently. Had it pumped then 3 weeks later water pooled up to the lids. Pumped again had the camera inspection and show no blockage on the mainline. Going to hydroblast it and hopefully that works. Never had it done in 20 years. Confused as to why the backup started AFTER the service and not until then. Best guess is leech lines dried up and hardened with heat? Hoping hydro blast solves the problem. Help!
The old saying, if ain't broke don't fix it 😑 I feel your pain. Our septic was born in 1977 and it was for a 3 bedroom 1 bath ranch. Our house is now 5 bedroom 4 full baths 🤣 we have a 1500 septic tank and a beehive style leaching tank. I'm in war mode to get that leaching tank working again! Just pumped both so I have about a week before the leaching tank starts taking in fluid. I'm drying that sucker out and cleaning up the floor and possibly pressure washing the side walls. I used casutic soda and acid and it did help. The leaching tank was again working but not fast enough. I swear I'll dig my own field before I pay thousands of dollars 😑. I already dug a grey water tank for the clothes washer . I may dig another grey water tank for 2 of the showers . Thank you you tube creators for all the ideas!!! Forever grateful ☝️☝️
I have been adding Roebic K37 monthly and K57 annually to ensure the bacteria carry over into the leach field. The system is 44 years old, works perfectly. I also have it pumped out every two years. We are extraordinarily careful about not adding bad stuff to the septic system: No food, grease, paint or other substances that can ruin a system that is expensive to replace.
3 years and your are having septic backup issues? You have some serious problems. pumping every 3 to 5 years in not an issue but having you drain field plug in 3 years, you did something seriously wrong or putting too much food into septic.
Thank you. I am absolutely planning on a greywater system this summer. I will take off the washer, showers, and sinks and divert them to a filter and garden. I know this will help greatly. Have a good one.
We live in the Texas country side. No regulations here as far as I know. I have researched grey water systems extensively. They are even allowed in many municipalities in California of all places (somewhere with strict statutes on the subject).
It looks like Texas allows for grey water systems with some restrictions. Look at TCEQ Chapter 285, Subchapter H. Removing 'grey water' will strengthen the remaining wastewater however, as the grey water 'dilutes' it to some degree.
I feel your pain. I'm using the Roebic K-570-Q for leach and drain fields which is also a concentrate and dr. pooper. accelerator. We're hoping between the two, we can dry up our leach field.
have you pumped tanks of course .. then use a 5 spray come along spaggetti hose on a preasure washer it will stir break up chunkies crust ect and add your bio bacteria to the distibrution box as your feeding in spray line .pull out when you see draining and do next infiltrator ot pipe. till field is working .
26 years, never been pumped. Drain field is on a hill so we have nice drainage I guess. The soil is not wet, we do not flush toilet paper, we never pour grease. The septic tank was pumped today because when we shower the toilet bubbles and opening the outside cap revealed full of water. So the guy said the system looks really great that whatever we're doing, keep doing it... Then he saw a crack on our septic wall (in the corner. About 1 1/2" wide and 4" long.) Sludge/septic stuff was slowly pouring inside the tank again from that crack. We are not sure if we have a baffle tank or not, digging more tomorrow. Wouldn't the guy know if it was a baffle tank? He said the craziest thing Ive ever heard... That when the water returns to normal operating level it will self seal that crack. What in the world?!? Please if someone can help or give advice.
You can dig up the outside of your tank and gently pressure wash it. Seal the cracks with high strength grout. Find a young guy who does excavation work. He will know the ins and outs of grout. Best way is to also grout the inside. DO NOT LET ANYONE GO INSIDE THE TANK without proper training and equipment. Confined spaces can be filled with toxic gasses that will kill you.
Just saw this post today. I pumped septic tanks for a living for 45 years. I had a job once looking at a septic system using a 1000 gallon tank that was damaged with about a square foot broken out in the side of the tank a few inches below the outlet pipe--it probably happened the day was installed during cover-up. it was 20 years old, and unknown if ever pumped. The area was all very boney gravel, and the liquid did not look like any liquid had ever reached the level in the tank to make it as high as the outlet pipe. The concrete tank was in very good condition, except for that hole on the side of the tank. The homeowner had been told he needed a new septic system. They had uncover both the inlet and outlet covers. I ran my camera down the outlet pipe to a distribution box about twenty feet away. The box looked bone dry; Digging down 18 inches to the box and removing the cover, I ran my camera down the 3 outlet pipes. they were all bone dry and as clean as they were the dy the system was installed. There had only been two people living in that house for the last 20 years. They had always used scott brand toilet paper, which happened to be the brand I told my customers to use. It breaks down better than the other brands. This was the only time I ever saw a system with this issue that was still working. I pumped the tank and repaired the hole with hydraulic cement. Bothe the inlet and outlet baffles were still in good condition. thr drainage area was a 20 by 30 foot drainage area consisting of crushed stone. I t was bone dry. The water table was over 20 feet deep as evidenced by a shallow water well in front of the house. I t passed the septic inspection (I passed it myself) a couple of years later. This was about 1990; I cleaned that tank for the new owners every two years until I retired in 2013. As far as I know--it is still working. ..It was a miracle the system worked all those years.
I went to my town building department and ask for my property folder. From there I made copies of my site plan which laid out all my septic lines, and tanks, with measurements from the house footprint. From there it was easy to find what I wanted.
@@CountryLivingExperience or you just another unintelligent homeowner who don’t know what he’s talking about and let’s sheisty contractors rip his mouth out
Thank you so much for the no-nonsense advice. I too was in the same situation and never did locate the distribution box. I added Roebic right into a toilet and voila! Worked like a charm!
Have you tried using a septic system metal poking rod to find the distribution box? Maybe start with finding the pipe exiting the holding tank, following it with the poker should lead you to the distribution box.
Go to a farm store and buy a tile probe (big pointy metal rod with T handle) and have fun getting a workout trying to find your tank, d-box, and leach lines/bed. Mark these with flags (color coding helps). Take care to record the depths and locations of these on a homemade map. Most failing septic systems are the result of incorrect installation, driving over the system with heavy equipment while the soil is wet (traditional rock and pipe systems are superior in terms of durability and lifespan, but you still don't want to drive over them during a wet winter or spring), installing the system when it's wet (the excavator bucket will smear the sides of the trenches/bed, effectively turning the area excavated into a big bathtub. When the soil is dry it is crumbly when broken apart, and so the holes and fissures in the soil structure will still be open to receive water from the system), installing the system in a wet area (in which case the system should have a perimeter drain installed around it which is drained into a ditch or field tile), or abuse by owner (putting too many harmful chemicals into the system, putting too much grease down the drain, not the getting the tank pumped every few years, not cleaning the filter if it has one, etc.) A lot of old rural houses don't even have a proper septic system, it's just a tank with a line that carries all the waste water to a gully or a creek or a farmer's field tile lol. In sandy country, people seldom have septic complaints even if their system is in really bad shape just because it drains so well (probably not the best thing for their water table though).
My system is doing the same thing and is probably 30yrs old as well, I had the tank cleaned when I moved in 12yrs ago, and again a year or so before now. I've never used the enzymes but I will be now.
Skip to 4:49 [roebic. You're testing it first then moving up the price ladder of more expensive options so if the roebic works then you wont be able to test the next product / solution]
The county permit for the septic should have a drawing of where the pipes are buried and hopefully with distances from the house. My parents house had the same problem and the county permit had a basic drawing to help locate the septic tank while also showing leach field line location.
@@bullbutter9699 Most rural counties require a septic system before they hand you the final paperwork to live in your house and those are on file at the county. Rural Washington state works that way since before 1980. Ditto for California and Arizona. Yes, I do understand there are some folks who have done things without permits and that's likely some number under 1% of rural houses.
Great video! I have biomat pooling in one corner...so I'm assuming one line. I've added some last week...and will add more. Question...is a riding lawn mower, or a light duty farm tractor too heavy for field?
Okay, so as a certified professional septic tech..... This guy has no idea what he is talking about. He read a couple lines online, and took it for gospel.
I appreciate this vide thank you very mech. My pumps being probably 20 years old finally failed. I temporary dropped in a sump pump to move gray eater to the drain field distribution pump tube, which was WRONG. Reviewing my AS BUILT I realized the engineer drew it WRONG, leaving put the all important SAND FILTER. I very likely fouled the tubes/orifices in the drain/leach field so tge effluent would not drain properly filling the sand field/pump tube with excess water. I dropped in a couple packets of the green gobbler (why not?) And the Roedic K-57 Septic System Cleaner and within a couple days the drainfield accepting water and my Septic system was cleared. I ordered the K-570 but it hasn't arrived yet. Thing about bio mass or anything slowing down your system is yoy need to be patient. The good bacteria NEEDS TIME TO WORK. Give it a couple days, we tend to want instant results and it just DOESN'T WORK that way. Let the clog get chewed up, it works.
We use jetting all the time on septic lines never have had an issue unless the system has already failed and needs replaced. Been doing this for 20 years +
That is encouraging and you are about the fourth person to say this. All the research I did beforehand, including video accounts of angry customers and articles written on the subject, indicated that hydro jetting was damaging to the drain tile. What I did forget to mention in the video was the fact that the effluent was coming out of the end of the drain tile/leach line. This to me still indicates and points to a biomat problem in the gravel. Thoughts?
I jet my lines every time I pump my tank. I bought a clog hog that attaches to the end of a pressure washer wand. This has saved my leach field. I had all the normal problems of backed up drains ect.. Jetting the lines after the tank is pumped allows all the debris back into the tank to be pumped or digested again. Add some microbes and your good for another 2yrs.
I just run the garden hose up the drainfield line until it backflushes any solids that made it into the line. When the distribution box gets full turn the water off and clean out the sump. Do this over and over until only clean water comes out of the line. Probably not ideal but better than leaving it in there. I only do this every ten years when we get the tank pumped.
@@lilylily8711 as we hydro jet the lines we are also sucking out the crud with our pump truck hose. The trip of the jetter is forcing the crud back towards the box. End result clean lines
Plant fast growing trees on that ground like Australian blue gum trees for firewood. Trees will take up the excess water. O.k trick is to never use squirt on toilet bowl cleaners that kills all bacteria. These chemicals ruines the system.
The first thing you did wrong was wait 3 yrs to pump a 500 gallon tank. Second, jetting is absolutely fine for leach lines, but you need to have a vac truck on site to pull all the water and sludge out while jetting. Third, you are not only wasting your money but potentially causing more trouble for your lines by using a monthly additive. Some of those products suspend your solids instead of letting them settle and thus sending them out to your drain field. And as far as liquid bacteria, yes it does work but again, you need to drain the flooded field out first. Otherwise it will never penetrate and break down the bio mat. 500 gallon tank with a family of four needs pumped out no more then every 2 years. 2 people in the house/4 yrs. also keep anti bacterial soaps out of septic.
I have a jetter (4200psi) and combined vac truck….how do you jet the root bound leach field when every lane of pipes meets at a Tjoint. Looks like we are going to have to lift or dig out the system and replace it. I’d certainly appreciate any advice.
I have not pumped my yank in 30 years and the only reason i did it then was because the original clay tile pipe collapsed leading to the tank . i have never had a problem since , i use ridex monthly it works fine.
I just saw this video. I’m wandering if this worked. What r u calling your distribution box. We have a septic tank and leech field. We just bought a house and the septic passed but the leech field did not. A lot if rain before the inspection and the water was filling up the septic tank as soon as it was pumped out. Ty
The distribution box connects to a solid line that comes out of septic tank. It accommodates several drain tile lines that go in various directions into your field. Our's for instance has two lines coming out of it but can accommodate 4 plus the inlet from the septic. This method worked for us for 1 year. The system was too far gone for it to reverse the problem completely. We ended up putting in a new system ourselves for a great and inexpensive cost. Our video for that is here: ua-cam.com/video/6eLIDyqIg0U/v-deo.html
Don't know how true this is but a friend had septic system for years and he swore by flushing 5 pounds of baking yeast every other month said it ate all crud out of system. Don't know if brewers yeast would work better ..Not advising anyone to do this but just passing this on just in case anyone would want to try. One caveat, however, he did this from start.
You can locate a d-box and determine it's depth below the surface with an inspection camera. 95 per cent of the bacteria action in a septic system takes place in the soil. a 1500 gallon compartment makes a great tank for a system. I put two of these tanks in row. If you run two outlet pipes out going into two seperate d boxes--put a good outlet tee filter in one, and a plug in the other--and switch them every year--the system could last until the end of time as long as you pump the tank(s) every one to three years based on your usage. the biomat will clean itself out in a year if nothing is going into it. I was in the business for 50 years. In someareas of the contry they have banned terralift, but it can stikk be used for other purposes-like I did. Look for my upcoming book-How to turn crap into a million dollar retirement fund--like I did. Coming out in 2024,
If i had built my house i would have made a drawing of my septic system, that said, i dont know why contractors leave us in the dark as to the layout of the septic system
It can also mean your using too much water and over loading the system. People think everyone in the house can take 20 minute showers everyday, have a dishwasher, wash 5 loads a once a week. Not if you have a septic system.
That is true but we were not. We use a little over 1/3 the average per household. It could also mean that the system was sized improperly. There are many factors.
@@CountryLivingExperience definitely undersized based on your usage. Best bet is to update it now before it causes backups. You may want to dig and check the distribution box. It maybe out of level and need levelers installed for even distribution of effluent. If there's poop in the distribution box that would not be a good sign and backups would be a very hazardous condition for the family. The house may will never sell if the system is undersized which is based on number of bedrooms normally or number of occupants. Get a good assessment from a reputable company. Don't put a band aid on it for short term fix. It'll cost more in the end. Good luck.
I'm in Massachusetts and my drain field is failing and was guess quoted $15,000- $30,000 by the company that pumped it. They don't install it but asked if they knew approx how much. All depends on the new engineering. It would be more for the whole system.... another guy in the know said since it is just drain field (although not officially confirmed by inspector) it may be as little as $10,000.....gotta love the Northeast!
@@rushrules81 from what I know, drain field replacement is a temporary fix and lasts 3 to 7 years at most. The best thing to do is to restore your soil.
I'm having the same problem, only I keep noticing the smell of the septic tank occasionally in the guest bathroom that never gets used much. I have replaced the flange, etc.. but I still notice it. I'm going to try both of these products you suggest and hope it will help. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with those of us always trying to diy to save money. :)
Since you guest bathroom is not used much, the traps in the sink or shower may be drying out letting sewer gas to come into your house. Make sure the traps are filled by running water down them regularly. I have this problem with my downstairs bathroom since I run a dehumidifier down there.
Just had my tank pumped. The man told me the top layer was almost 2 feet of toilet paper!! He said to use cheaper paper, as it is more friendly to septic systems. In other words, stay away from the more expensive quilted type, but don’t go too cheap either. My field is failing also. He took the time and dug down into the gravel bed, and sure enough, he dug up black gunk. Immediately we could see water in the hole. My field has been green and lush since it was installed. I live in good sandy soil. I thought this was normal. Nope! He said it should be more dry. I’m looking at around 4K he guessed for a second field. I’ll hook a “Y” in the line with a valve so hopefully the old field will recover, and then I can rotate between the two fields every couple of years. He mentioned the other methods you talked about, but did say to stay away from the aeration type system, as the pumps seem to wear out within five years or so.
Thanks for your thoughts Michael. I like the idea of just adding to the field and diverting it. Interesting idea. That is a lot of toilet paper...luckily we use the cheap thin stuff so no worries there.
I have 4 kids. After pumping the tank a few times, we implemented a new rule - use handi-wipes/baby wipes, and do NOT flush them. They go in the trash. That helped us a lot.
Andrew Johnson Thanks for the information. My wife and daughter have just recently went to a fabric wipe for their pea only, then it can be washed and sanitized for reuse. Hopefully this will save toilet paper in the septic and save on the costs of the paper.
@@fordguyfordguy i've actually heard of others doing that.. especially those living in very VERY old 100 year old homes with ancient septic pipes that were not made to handle today's version of toilet paper. The people keep a metal lidded waste can near the commode, lined with a small garbage pail bag.. and only the body waste gets flushed.. while the toilet paper used to wipe is thrown in the can. naturally, the garbage can is emptied daily ... the garbage bag tied up and added with the main trash . Not the most pleasant solution, but a person's gotta do what a person's gotta do-- with their "Doo"! If i had to do that, i'd keep a can of Essential Oil air freshner in the bathroom.. They sell some really good stuff that actually eats odors instead of making them.. (and it's not FeBreeze, but something called "Airscense" you can probably find online at Vitacost, etc.. I have it and it works )
@@CountryLivingExperience Cute. "And here I am! See how impressively fast I am!?" Not one to be forgotten I guess, probably thinks he's famous by now. And thanks for providing such a forum to see so many of people's experiennces and fine ideas to ponder and weigh.
So if u dig down to distribution box and find other unused outlets. Then dig a couple leach lines about ten ft long. Buy some stone and sewer pipe with holes in it. Make sure the new lines are a bit lower at the far end then at box. Problem fixed for a good number of years
My old farmhouse septic system is over 50 years old. Nothing goes into tank but toilet and bath drains. Wash machine, dishwasher, kitchen sink, water softener all go into grey water tile. Very slight scum in tank. Without wash machine settling time and decomposition is greatly increased. The effluent filters give false sense of security. They don't remove the really small stuff. If they did you'd have to clean filter every month. The secret is to buy the biggest tank and keep water volume as low as possible.
My system was too far gone. The Roebic did extend the life of the system for another year but I had to eventually replace the leach lines. We did a video on that too.
We had a saturated leach field cause us big problems along with tons of other people. I'm looking at grey water diversion to reduce the load on our septic. Diverting one tub, laundry, dishwasher, and kitchen sink should still leave plenty of grey water to help work the black through my system, agreed?
I believe when the tank is pumped, it's refilled with "clean" water to a certain level. It's just that there should be little or no slime and sludge layers in the tank after it's pumped & serviced.
I just had a problem; had to have my tank pumped after only 3 years, when the prior pumpouts were 7 and 8 years apart. (Tank holds 1500 gallons & fully fills the pumper truck!) They told my my leach field had failed, and that all I have now is a holding tank. However, I don't see how that product could work in this situation, because the leach lines aren't at the bottom of the tank, but closer to the top, so it seems to me that the tank needs to be fairly near full before water will start exiting into the leach pipes. What about mixing the product with water, and pouring it directly into the soil where the leach field is? Might that not help better when the tank is actually still basically empty? Otherwise, all we can do, and have been doing, is extreme water conservation, as when we had our severe 5-year drought. Waiting for water to get hot--run it into a bucket & use on plants; toilet--"if it's yellow, let it mellow, if it's brown, flush it down"; washing machine--small loads only (High efficiencly machine that 'measures' how much water for the load); large load--blankets, etc...go to laundromat....and so forth. It's all I can do, being on social security as my only income, and that's less than $2K/month...and the quoted price for a new septic system is low end $20K--up to as much as $45K!! No way I can do that!
The product helped extend the life of our system for 1 year. But in the end, our field was too far gone and we chose to replace it. We did it with the help of a friend who had installed them in the past so it only cost us $2k. Try routing your greywater to a rain garden outside and just have your toilets connected to the septic. New system prices are insane! Maybe try to claim it on your homeowners ins. Sorry your are having this issue.
Thank you. The Roebic worked for very good 1 year but it was not enough to reverse the total damage that had been done over time. We are now on to the next step.
As a Septic Professional with over 20 years of experience, I can assure you that you've got both Anaerobic and Aerobic bacteria in all Septic Systems... both types of bacteria exist in every system regardless of age or size, and that's an absolute fact. Regarding jetting the Distribution Pipes or Lateral Lines in the Leaching Field, it's perfectly fine as long as the pipes are made of PVC Plastic... especially Schedule 35 or Schedule 40 PVC Plastic. Lastly, if the grass is lush and green over the Leaching Area or Drainage Area of the yard, that's a bad sign, because the grass SHOULD NOT be greener over the Leachfield/Drainfield if it's functioning properly. In fact, lush green grass is usually an indication of a failed or failing system, so always pay attention to the lawn, and how the grass grows or is growing over your Septic System. It will be fairly obvious if you've got a problem.
@@domingo360 In my opinion, it's a waste of time and money to use any type of Septic Additives. I understand that lots of companies claim that adding bacteria to your Septic System will improve the systems performance, and even prolong the life of the system. To be clear, Septic Systems have been around a lot longer than any of these products or additives that are on the market today. Think about that for a moment, snd ask yourself why that is, because I think the answer is pretty obvious. Remember, every time you flush the toilet, you're giving the system exactly what it needs... Alright?
We get a ton of snow where we are. Should we let it pile on the field or remove it with a snowblower? Wondering about flooding the field during snowmelt vs keeping the field insulated in winter with the snow.
@@dancleary7724 Good Morning, I'm in New Hampshire, and as you can imagine, we get a serious amount of snow and cold weather... subzero temperatures are common here. So, to answer your question, leave the snow on the Leaching Field, because your system was designed with snow in mind. In fact, all Septic System Designer's and/or Engineers take rainfall and snowmelt into account, because the leachfield has to be able to handle whatever mother nature throws at it. Besides, in the winter, having a foot or two of snow in your yard, is actually a great insulator for the Septic System, which is a good thing... Alright?
Exactly what I did. Dig up the “outlet” inspection hole. Throw a hose in it and use a funnel to put it down the header line. Worked great!! (Although I literally did about 8 bottles on the first treatment)
lol sad but also a likely cheaper option.....out by us some dude set up a "sprinkler system" that fed water from his septic tank.....basicallly didnt need to pump his tank (he must not have flushed toilet paper or something....i dont know lol....but we know solids sink)....he'd literally just water his lawnn uutilizing his septic tank "water" every couple days......it was a nifty system but DEFINITELLY not to "code" lol.....
I don’t have any problems, and have been on my farm for 26 years, but I don’t want to take a chance. I bought the combo box for $55. Thank you for the advice and video. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Give it a shot. It helped for a short period of time but my system was too far gone. I ended up having to replace mine a year after this video was made.
Invest in WORMS! Dig a little trench over your leach field and let them aerate their new home. Also cheap. There are YT vids on how to do it. Various species do different things, and you can buy a "variety pack" Each worm can process tons of dirt each year.
I've dug up all the lateral lines & everything looked good so far. I think my problem is the septic, it's a 30 year old house that's needing attention...
So after hiring a professional, they dug up the septic tank today while I was at work, come to find out the pump was worn out, so guess it wasnt as bad as i thought. That's what happens when you watch to many UA-cam videos lol... thanks for all your input, I've learned alot about this for the first time having this problem.
Those bugs better be thirsty! Putting bugs in your septic system, when it's clear that infiltration, over saturation,and surcharging is the problem, is like putting a muffler on your car when the water pump goes out!! It just ain't gonna work!! I worked in this field for over 17 years and saw an awful lot of shady stuff happen. It's not near as bad now as it used to be, but it still goes on! And an example of that would be whomever was paid off to approve a standard septic for this location, there's no way in hell this area is suitable for a standard septic! I dont know for sure that it's any good for a two tank mound even!
@@CountryLivingExperience i just reread my comment and while i came across a little harsh, i still stand by my evaluation of your system, i just hate to see you having problems everytime it rains. If you lived by yourself and no children, you probably would be alright! I've seen homes that started as cabins that had one 4 inch line from the septic tank out, no dbox, just one run from the tank staight out. It worked for 30 years like that, because of very light use, and then it's bought by someone who needs an affordable starter home. Now there's a wife and 3 chidren using the toilet, and all of a sudden it no longer is working very well, then one day later it works no longer! And someone has a very very big problem and most likely a very big check to endorse also! Like i said, sorry for coming across so harsh and sounding like a prick, but it should be done right for future peace of mind!
Let me get some further thoughts from you. I still have an overflow problem out of the second tank and there is effluent running out of the end of the leach line about 150 feet away from the house. This indicates to me that it still is a biomat buildup/problem in the gravel field surrounding the leach lines. Thoughts?
@@CountryLivingExperience I'm not saying that you couldn't have a bio mat problem, but i am saying i doubt it! What you are experiencing is over saturation of the soil, Or simply put, you can't add water to a system that is already 0ver full without it coming out somewhere it's not supposed to, like your drain field all at once. It could be something more serious, but i doubt it. We've all experienced record breaking rainfall for the last probably 3 or 4 years, everything is at it peak holding capacity and there's gonna be places like yours who experience problems associated with the record rain that probably won't happen to them again in our lifetime. My brother died when he was 46 years old, and i ended up with his property. My youngest son Emory wanted to move in so i called the septic tank cleaner. I took my backhoe down and we got it dug up, when we got to look into the tank the water was just flying in! It sounded like a waterfall running backwards from the drain field! I never saw anything like it before, but it was just like this as far as weather and being very wet. It's worked flawlessly ever since, so go figure! Try the easy cheap stuff first!
Good stuff. Pooper is full. I use both products. You must use some treatment every single month. Or pooper will get full. Alot of problems with septics is poor contractors who took shortcuts and Leach lines are not properly buried 36inches below. I usually get a pump once a year. The ground gets so saturated with water it has no where to go but to back up.
I need to have the priest to come and blessed our home and land again
and this is why always have a clean out plug at lowest point in system. the sludge goes to the low point and just clean that out.
Unfortunately, I do not have a clean out downstream.
Alex it was build like 30 plus years ago !!
Biggest thing is do not use Charmin, quilted northern, wet wipes, or other toilet paper that doesn't fall apart when it gets wet, 3 feet down tye drain your tp should no longer even be recognizable as tp, angel soft is a brand that I know is septic safe. That's just in the category or taking steps for preventative maintenance though.
I use Angel Soft. Preventative maintenance is the best. That won't help dissolve biomat though.
So, what would be your next solution?
I am starting to have this problem.
Please post updated video. Thanks.
The product I put in has worked for 1 year but it was not able to overcome the damage that had already been done. We will need to excavate to determine if the biomat has broken up or if the lines need to be hydro-jetted.
Best solution is to mega-dose with the right products and follow the proper protocol.
Best solution is to not use the system for a year and let the biomat eat itself away. Also, make sure your drainfield lines aren't more than 3' deep so oxygen can still get to the bottom of the trenches. And if you have any trees nearby it wouldn't hurt to make sure the roots haven't clogged your drain lines.
@@jbvincent47 we bought a property and are having problems with the drain field not taking water. Upon inspection we found the lines to be up to 10’ below ground level. For the top line and 4’ for the lower line. It’s on a hill. Is there anything you know of that can be done? It’s like they got the inspection done then regraded for a drove way and parking lot above it and filled in over the lines way too much. I’m not sure how to fix this and there’s nowhere to go for a mew field because there’s a stream 50’ from the last line
@@jamesellis5248 So the line is under part of the driveway? The process of adding fill and compacting it for a driveway would definitely severely limit the amount of oxygen the drainfield could get. I'm not sure where you are or the regulations but most health departments would let you do at least a "best fix possible" type of thing to keep you going. The county I work in they won't kick you out of your house but the "non-confirming" repair could get a bit spendy.
So did it work?
It did. Flowing well now. Took about 6 bottles though.
I understand why it did not. Basically, the right amounts and types of bacteria do work. If you do not do it right, the problem comes back which is probably what happenedm
Don’t flush grease down your drains, that goes for wipes as well, they are NOT biodegradable as they advise.
What has changed in the last couple of decades with septic systems? Back in the '70s I worked on a number of systems that were 30-70 years old that not only had fully functioning leach lines, but which had *never* been pumped and weren't more than a third full of solids. My personal guess is that all the anti-bacterial soaps and cleaners are killing the tank bacteria and creating the problem. I don't know, but reason would indicate that you shouldn't have to do any major work on a septic system for a very long time.
I can appreciate what you are saying. Since I moved in, I have eliminated bleaches and antibacterial cleansers from the house. I cannot say what was used by the previous owner. Did you ever run into a biomat buildup around any leach lines you worked on?
@@CountryLivingExperience There was some occasionally, but I really don't recall much. If memory serves - and it has been over 40 years since I did any of that type of work - most of the problematic leach beds were in wet locations where water stood or the soil was saturated for much of the year. I was just the kid with the shovel, just dig out the lid, find and open the junction box, locate and expose some of the line to check flow. I really didn't pay a huge amount of attention most of the time.
Yes! 20 years ago I was the first to move in a new construction single family house in Ft. Lauderdale, FL (sandy soil).
Small family with regular usage of clothes washer and daily usage of dishwasher. Nine (9) years later someone suggested to empty the septic tank for the first time as preventative maintenance. I paid $300 to suck the contents out only to find out that the "solids" were all they way at the bottom. The company told me that it definitely did not need any emptying. It looked to me that the septic tank could have gone unemptied for another 4 or 5 decades perhaps longer. Oh and the next year the city installed sewer pipes costing me $800 to connect. Naturally the monthly utility bill increased by over 100%. But that's a story for another time.
you really need to treat the system regardless because every drainage - sewer, septic system has buildup which always needs to be eliminated or else water flow will be impeded. There is no way around it...has to be done
Our septic is 60 years old...for the first 55 years it was owned by a couple that grew up in the great depression. They showered twice a week and did laundry once a week. I know because the old man kept a log of water used with notes for 20 years. He used about a quarter of the water we use now with a modern washing machine and 2 kids. Think people just use a lot more water these days and it puts a higher load on the septic systems. With gentle use, most things will last a lifetime.
In my opinion, most of what this guy is saying is only half true, or not true at all. To be clear, all Leaching Fields eventually fail and need replacing. Statistically, 25 to 30 years is the life expectancy of a Stone & Pipe System. To be fair, not all Leachfields or Drainfields use Stone & Pipe. Nevertheless, a properly designed and properly maintained Stone & Pipe Leaching Field, should last about 30 years if you pump out the Septic Tank every 2 or 3 years, and are very careful about the types of cleaning products you buy. Obviously, it's important to check labels when you shop, and never use liquid fabric softener or bleach. Paint is really bad for a Septic System, especially LATEX Paint, but so are solvents like Paint Thinner. Also, Garbage Disposals and Water Softeners are not recommended with a Septic System, but lots of homes have one or both. It suffices to say, if you've gotten more than 3 decades out of your Leachfield/Drainfield, then you've done well, and have nothing to complain about. Regarding Septic System Additives or Septic Tank Treatments, it's completely unnecessary, and isn't going to accomplish anything. You'd be better off pumping your tank a little more often, because that's what allows the Leaching Area or Drainage Area to dry out for a few days. An empty tank can take a week or more to refill depending on the size, and the number of people using it. In fact, a 1500 gallon 2 Compartment Tank could take 10 to 14 days to completely refill. That's a long time for a Leaching Field to go without any water, which can really help the system work better and last longer. I advise my customers to be careful what they put down the drain and flush down the toilet, because feminine hygiene products like tampons, panty liners, panty shields, along with the applicators and wrappers belong in the trash... not your Septic Tank. The same is true for condoms, cotton swabs, cigarette butts, baby wipes, and even dental floss. Anything non-biodegradable should be put in the garbage... not your Septic System. If you're very careful, you could get 40 years or more out of a Stone & Pipe Leaching Field, which is excellent!
Roebic is some great stuff. I've been using it for years, every four months I add two quarts. Cheap insurance ! keeps things flowing and my leach field draining. My system was installed in 1955 and still working great !
Wow! That is an old system. Awesome.
Where do you apply the roebic ?
@@hayesunified3670 i add mine to the toilets monthly....
obviously cannt hurt to add it to the "D BOX" if you can find it without breaking your "drain lines" or impeding your drain field ;)
Our house/septic is 55 years old. I've lived in my house for 21 years now. Two adults, one bath and we watch what goes down the drains.
We had the tank pumped and inspected before the closing. Since then we've had our tank pumped every 3-5 years.
This spring we'll have our tank pumped again. I plan on dumping some Roebic down & out the exit baffle. I figure a direct dump like that would get more chompers into the bed, than just a flush down the toilet.
I am not saying the prices that he gave for a drain field are wrong, but they depend heavily on the the region and how much competition the industry has in the area. I own a septic company and I can tell you that drain fields go for around $15 per foot in South Carolina. So $1500 per 100'. Depending on the soil and residential water usage, a three bed room home can run on a 150' system. Check with your local small septic company's about what is the best option in your area. Just about every company that I have had dealings with including myself are very helpful and willing to give you sound advice. Most septic company's are ran by good old country folks. Most importantly, have regular maintenance performed every 3-5 years! Most drain field problems are caused by neglecting the system! At least open up the septic tank every so often and make sure that the outlet baffle is intact and not allowing solids to flow out into the drain field. lastly the only thing that should ever go into a septic tank is two ply toilet paper and what comes out of you! No grease or "flush-able wet wipes". Hope this helps!
Thank you for your thoughtful response. I would be overjoyed with $15 per foot......that is not the case in East Texas from what I have found. I have had the tanks pumped since I moved in 2 years ago and there was no issue before that. I do not know if the previous owner neglected the system but suspect he might have. I will check that outlet baffle more often. I am super careful about what we put in the tank so no wetwipes or grease for sure.
I again appreciate the way you responded as most other commenters have been crass and rude causing me to delete them. lol. Have a great day!
Adam Gladden
Those rates are incredibly close where I live also.
@@CountryLivingExperience Here in S. Florida I had a company come in and inject little styrofoam balls along the lines. That broke up the problem. They charged me $5000.00. They couldn't give any guarantee how long it would work. I bought a hydro-jet tip and line for my pressure cleaner both are rated for 3000 psi, so it was low enough not to be a problem for my perforated pipes. That opened all of my lines except one that has roots in it. I'm not sure how to get those out. Anything that would cut those out would probably destroy the pipe.I also had the company install a filter in my septic when they were here cleaning it out.
@@TurnThePage7800 $5000 seems like a lot of money for styrofoam balls. I hope it lasts for you.
@@pannathannap I work the Kershaw and sumter county area. Rock hill is a little too far.
36% Hydrogen Peroxide . 5 gals in the distribution box . What clogs drain fields the most is the soaps building up layers of soap scum. Most people have their washer machines and dish washer on the septic system . Best thing you can do is remove those very soapy water appliances off your septic system.
BTW, I also learned that the biomat forms when there is lack of oxygen, and disappears when there is sufficient oxygen flow. Therefore terraLift+pouring perforated ceramic beads+pouring in Reobic should remove the biomat. After that, keeping the dirt damp should greatly help as earthworm population grow and their activities will keep the air flowing inside the dirt.
Did a mushroom tell you that. LOL
I'll be adding an aerator in my pump tank! After researching and watching my neighbors aeration setup, it's been all too obvious that aerator system works by oxygenating the tank!
@@randythomas3478 just be careful that the aerator pumps can burn out in a year because it has to push air through the thick and dirty water. One alternative is to install a wind turbine on your roof that is attached to the sewer vent pipe on your roof and install another candle cane shaped short pipe on your tank. This allows air to be circulated through with the help of wind. Something interesting to think about
That's the fastest dog I've ever seen.
Lol. All he does every day is chase cars. I should rename him The Flash.
I had the vid speed up to 1.5...real fast dog.
Great info, thanks a bunch.
@@scoooterbob2321 Glad it was helpful.
@@scoooterbob2321 lol
You may want to consider putting a marker stone or benchmark over your distribution box once you find it. It couldn't hoit!
Edit: you might also think of drawing up a "master plan" (aka survey) of where things are on the property. Less chance of breaking a water line or something from randomly digging holes to find something.
I am slowly making a plan. Even the last owner didn't know where everything was.
I was thinking the same thing, like using a paper towel roll to fill with concrete, put on corner of box and on the tanks. I would also think about putting one every 5 or 10 feet between the tank and the box to make it easier. You could also put a small chisel mark on the house 90-degree angle to the box, and even put the distance to it (obviously low near the ground)
Plant a shallow rooted or even bulb type plant
@@ritste1654 small shallow root plant or a bulb of daffodil
This info is invaluable...previous owner drew a diagram which was very helpful. I would not have found the tank without it as the cover was buried. The diagram shows where the D. Box is....I hope I don't need to dig to it; praying this Roebic will work. No back up, just a high water level in tank even after pumping.
My house sat empty for yrs. Out in west texas desert area. Water backs up after running for a while. I have used everything trying to loosen it up. This product too. From root destroyer to some really expensive stuff. I don't have water on the ground either. The air pressure machine to loosen it up. Is last hope before digging.
Just wanted to say thank you for providing what has turned into a forum. Dealing with a 30-year-old failed drainfield and exploring possible solutions in all the comments here. Thanks, everyone! Wow!
Just saw your message this am-don't know why it's just showing up today( 4-18-2024.) I am just putting the finishing touches on a book I haven't put out yet about how I grew my one-man septic tank pumping business into a retirement account worth well over one million dollars. The Terralift section is a major component of the book, which I plan to charge thirty dollars for. I have already contacted Jim K. at Pumper Magazine about using my book as a source for them, and mentioning my book. The Terralift has been restricted to use--but the machine can legally be used for other purposes. I charged $1500. in the beginning, but raised my price to three thousand dollars after an over-joyed customer told me my service was worth much more. I saved him the eighteen thousand dollars he was getting ready to spend to replace his drainfield, and saved the sale of his home to a waiting home buyer. If you want me to reserve a copy of the book for you-let me know. My cell is 774 254-5501. My business was in Uxbridge,MA. where I grew up. I retired in 2013, and am now living in Little River, SC-next to Myrtle Beach. Jack Darling
Did you end up fixing it?
Exit the background music, very distracting. I'm listening to your advice but, turn off the background music to you video.
They can last 100 years mine is 50 years
Very nice guy but I have been told by multiple experts that you should put zero additives in septic systems. I am in Canada and ministry of the environment states put nothing in septic system because they don't work. They are not saying this for environmental reasons, just because does not work and is a scam. Very sorry but this is true.
Correct none of it works. They said Buttermilk works so I'm gonna try that
I redid my own field lines 4-5 years ago... I had access to a larger version of a rubber tracked excavator, still smaller compared to a steel plate track hoe but probably a 5000lb+ machine... so all I had to buy was some diesel fuel, the necessary perforated 4" line, some non perforated 4" line, distribution box, a load of gravel (gravel pit 5 miles away so I get that cheap), geotextile fabric, and of course my labor for the project...
Grand total was a tad under $700 which covered 4 50' runs for a total of 200' of field line complete under the dirt...
Bear in mind I have contacts and get most everything fairly cheap, no equipment rental, and no labor cost doing everything myself.
Also bear in mind... I live in the middle of nowhere BFE, and the compound is pretty much centered on a 180acre plot.... pretty much everything around here is legal for the homeowners to DIY, no building permits; just a certified perc test and casual eyeball by the county guy before you cover everything...
In many more "city" areas many permits might be required, as well as an actual licensed & certified "septic" installation company.... check your local regulatory statutes before attempting a DIY septic drain field.
I put in new field lines about a year after this video. Cost me $1000 to do it myself.
@@patrickjames2332 Isn’t country life amazing? 🥳🥳🥳
Good video. Turn off the background music.
Did you by chance pump the septic tank before putting in the stuff or never pumped it at all ?
It was pumped regularly. Once every 2 years
@CountryLivingExperience did this fix the issue?
@@jonquis07 It worked to extend the life of the system for about another year. Initially the problem cleared up. However, my system was too far gone for it to completely reverse the damage and I had to replace the leach lines. We did a video on that process too.
In old systems it's more commonly roots clogging up the systems.
I have done tons of hydro jetting on all different pipes. All you have to do is regulate your pressure.
But does the jetting breakup up the biomass outside the pipe and the trench walls
@@TheDouglash i can see it doing some but may take longer.
I am glad I saw your comment. I had my septic hydro jetted a few years ago and was a little concerned after watching the video.
Where was this video last week ! 🤦🏾♂️ I had a septic company come out and said my system is failing and that I should consider changing it out , steering at 12k ! Thanks for this video ! God bless you !
You're welcome.
easy money :)
Jetting line work to clean leech field lines 34 years in the business .This gentleman is just misinformed ,this is what I hate about Utube videos,misinformation
Could you please tell me how to maintain a septic system? Thank you.
After saying all that atleast add what should be done
Great video! I had already purchased the Roebic prior to viewing this video, so I was happy that was the product you recommended. I actually have a 4" cleanout directly to my distribution box, so I plan on adding the product directly. Fingers crossed it begins to break down the biomat!
I actually bought the entire Roebic 4-step program but plan to start with the l'eech and drain field' opener to get things moving then re-start with step 1 - Septic tank treatment. 14 year old system that I had installed when I purchased the property. Unfortunately, it's a rental property and I have little control of what is going down the drain lines. I never knew about the biomat, just figured treating the tank and occasional pumping would suffice. Live and learn!
Thanks. Glad it was helpful.
Mines over 40 and one of them isn't draining. No water in the yard though. I'm going to dig down and follow the exit pipe from the tank and see if there's a clean out at a junction box before getting a new drainfield installed. It went 2 years between pumpings so it must be draining somewhat. I was told $5-6k here in florida, we are high and dry where i live so no raised mound. Oh, i dug a dry well for our washer 1 year ago so that may help. dumping the washer into your septic tank is so stupid. I dug a 6 foot hole, filled the bottom with 2 foot of gravel and dropped a 50 gallon rain barrel in the hole with hundreds of 1/2 inch holes drilled in the sides/bottom. It's been working like a charm. My wife has done 3 loads of laundry and can't fill that barrel before it drains into the ground. Water drains quickly here which helps.
Thank you..dump 8 boxs ..RID X..IT WORK..TOOK 6 MONTHS BEFORE IT FLOW WRIGHT..MADE UNDERSTAND HOW IT WORKS
They did a bad job when they pumped your tank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They didn't use a spoon to break up the floating fat/grease at the top of the septic tank. Then this settled to the bottom and when you start using you tank again it floats over the drain and blocks it off.
Any opinions appreciated: I have a 1000 gallon 2 compartment traditional system NO D box just the mainline with leech lines off to one side. No problems regular service until recently. Had it pumped then 3 weeks later water pooled up to the lids. Pumped again had the camera inspection and show no blockage on the mainline. Going to hydroblast it and hopefully that works. Never had it done in 20 years. Confused as to why the backup started AFTER the service and not until then. Best guess is leech lines dried up and hardened with heat? Hoping hydro blast solves the problem. Help!
The old saying, if ain't broke don't fix it 😑 I feel your pain. Our septic was born in 1977 and it was for a 3 bedroom 1 bath ranch. Our house is now 5 bedroom 4 full baths 🤣 we have a 1500 septic tank and a beehive style leaching tank. I'm in war mode to get that leaching tank working again! Just pumped both so I have about a week before the leaching tank starts taking in fluid. I'm drying that sucker out and cleaning up the floor and possibly pressure washing the side walls. I used casutic soda and acid and it did help. The leaching tank was again working but not fast enough. I swear I'll dig my own field before I pay thousands of dollars 😑. I already dug a grey water tank for the clothes washer . I may dig another grey water tank for 2 of the showers . Thank you you tube creators for all the ideas!!! Forever grateful ☝️☝️
I have been adding Roebic K37 monthly and K57 annually to ensure the bacteria carry over into the leach field. The system is 44 years old, works perfectly. I also have it pumped out every two years. We are extraordinarily careful about not adding bad stuff to the septic system: No food, grease, paint or other substances that can ruin a system that is expensive to replace.
Did it work?
3 years and your are having septic backup issues? You have some serious problems.
pumping every 3 to 5 years in not an issue but having you drain field plug in 3 years, you did something seriously wrong or putting too much food into septic.
Take the washer water off your system, it’s easy to take off. Just connect some pvc to the discharge and run it out to your plants.
Thank you. I am absolutely planning on a greywater system this summer. I will take off the washer, showers, and sinks and divert them to a filter and garden. I know this will help greatly. Have a good one.
In some states this may be illegal. 'Grey water' is considered wastewater and should be treated appropriately.
Yeah, we dont allow that either....
However, it will reduce the amount going into the drain field by about 65%.
We live in the Texas country side. No regulations here as far as I know. I have researched grey water systems extensively. They are even allowed in many municipalities in California of all places (somewhere with strict statutes on the subject).
It looks like Texas allows for grey water systems with some restrictions. Look at TCEQ Chapter 285, Subchapter H. Removing 'grey water' will strengthen the remaining wastewater however, as the grey water 'dilutes' it to some degree.
I smelled a raw smell in my back yard. The plumber said my septic tank backed up and I may need big work. The moral is not to forget to pump!
Absolutely
I feel your pain. I'm using the Roebic K-570-Q for leach and drain fields which is also a concentrate and dr. pooper. accelerator. We're hoping between the two, we can dry up our leach field.
have you pumped tanks of course .. then use a 5 spray come along spaggetti hose on a preasure washer it will stir break up chunkies crust ect and add your bio bacteria to the distibrution box as your feeding in spray line .pull out when you see draining and do next infiltrator ot pipe. till field is working .
Happy dog sprints through “stupid humans poop in the yard”
Ww
W
26 years, never been pumped. Drain field is on a hill so we have nice drainage I guess. The soil is not wet, we do not flush toilet paper, we never pour grease. The septic tank was pumped today because when we shower the toilet bubbles and opening the outside cap revealed full of water. So the guy said the system looks really great that whatever we're doing, keep doing it... Then he saw a crack on our septic wall (in the corner. About 1 1/2" wide and 4" long.) Sludge/septic stuff was slowly pouring inside the tank again from that crack. We are not sure if we have a baffle tank or not, digging more tomorrow. Wouldn't the guy know if it was a baffle tank? He said the craziest thing Ive ever heard... That when the water returns to normal operating level it will self seal that crack. What in the world?!? Please if someone can help or give advice.
You can dig up the outside of your tank and gently pressure wash it. Seal the cracks with high strength grout. Find a young guy who does excavation work. He will know the ins and outs of grout. Best way is to also grout the inside. DO NOT LET ANYONE GO INSIDE THE TANK without proper training and equipment. Confined spaces can be filled with toxic gasses that will kill you.
Just saw this post today. I pumped septic tanks for a living for 45 years. I had a job once looking at a septic system using a 1000 gallon tank that was damaged with about a square foot broken out in the side of the tank a few inches below the outlet pipe--it probably happened the day was installed during cover-up. it was 20 years old, and unknown if ever pumped. The area was all very boney gravel, and the liquid did not look like any liquid had ever reached the level in the tank to make it as high as the outlet pipe. The concrete tank was in very good condition, except for that hole on the side of the tank. The homeowner had been told he needed a new septic system. They had uncover both the inlet and outlet covers. I ran my camera down the outlet pipe to a distribution box about twenty feet away. The box looked bone dry; Digging down 18 inches to the box and removing the cover, I ran my camera down the 3 outlet pipes. they were all bone dry and as clean as they were the dy the system was installed. There had only been two people living in that house for the last 20 years. They had always used scott brand toilet paper, which happened to be the brand I told my customers to use. It breaks down better than the other brands. This was the only time I ever saw a system with this issue that was still working. I pumped the tank and repaired the hole with hydraulic cement. Bothe the inlet and outlet baffles were still in good condition. thr drainage area was a 20 by 30 foot drainage area consisting of crushed stone. I t was bone dry. The water table was over 20 feet deep as evidenced by a shallow water well in front of the house. I t passed the septic inspection (I passed it myself) a couple of years later. This was about 1990; I cleaned that tank for the new owners every two years until I retired in 2013. As far as I know--it is still working. ..It was a miracle the system worked all those years.
I went to my town building department and ask for my property folder. From there I made copies of my site plan which laid out all my septic lines, and tanks, with measurements from the house footprint. From there it was easy to find what I wanted.
You got lucky.
this is the best idea LOL.....but not all municippalities have good departments like this that keepp records for over 30 years ;)
Oh selling it in your store 🤣 of course it work’s amazing
Way to exaggerate the cost by 3 times lmao. Drainfields replacement starts at around 2500
If you were intelligent, you would recognize differences in cost based on region and State.
@@CountryLivingExperience or you just another unintelligent homeowner who don’t know what he’s talking about and let’s sheisty contractors rip his mouth out
3:52. The dog executed an excellent photo bomb
He does that same thing in almost all my videos.
Thank you so much for the no-nonsense advice. I too was in the same situation and never did locate the distribution box. I added Roebic right into a toilet and voila! Worked like a charm!
Glad it was helpful!
It’s the K57 stuff? That’s what I use.
Zoomy dog at 3:52
Yep. In almost all my videos he is zooming.
Have you tried using a septic system metal poking rod to find the distribution box? Maybe start with finding the pipe exiting the holding tank, following it with the poker should lead you to the distribution box.
Ok. Thanks
Go to a farm store and buy a tile probe (big pointy metal rod with T handle) and have fun getting a workout trying to find your tank, d-box, and leach lines/bed. Mark these with flags (color coding helps). Take care to record the depths and locations of these on a homemade map. Most failing septic systems are the result of incorrect installation, driving over the system with heavy equipment while the soil is wet (traditional rock and pipe systems are superior in terms of durability and lifespan, but you still don't want to drive over them during a wet winter or spring), installing the system when it's wet (the excavator bucket will smear the sides of the trenches/bed, effectively turning the area excavated into a big bathtub. When the soil is dry it is crumbly when broken apart, and so the holes and fissures in the soil structure will still be open to receive water from the system), installing the system in a wet area (in which case the system should have a perimeter drain installed around it which is drained into a ditch or field tile), or abuse by owner (putting too many harmful chemicals into the system, putting too much grease down the drain, not the getting the tank pumped every few years, not cleaning the filter if it has one, etc.)
A lot of old rural houses don't even have a proper septic system, it's just a tank with a line that carries all the waste water to a gully or a creek or a farmer's field tile lol. In sandy country, people seldom have septic complaints even if their system is in really bad shape just because it drains so well (probably not the best thing for their water table though).
My system is doing the same thing and is probably 30yrs old as well, I had the tank cleaned when I moved in 12yrs ago, and again a year or so before now. I've never used the enzymes but I will be now.
The additive worked for me for 1 year but my system was too far gone by the time I started. It was worth the shot though.
Did it work?
Skip to 4:49 [roebic. You're testing it first then moving up the price ladder of more expensive options so if the roebic works then you wont be able to test the next product / solution]
Exactly
The county permit for the septic should have a drawing of where the pipes are buried and hopefully with distances from the house. My parents house had the same problem and the county permit had a basic drawing to help locate the septic tank while also showing leach field line location.
Permit lol
@@bullbutter9699 Most rural counties require a septic system before they hand you the final paperwork to live in your house and those are on file at the county. Rural Washington state works that way since before 1980. Ditto for California and Arizona.
Yes, I do understand there are some folks who have done things without permits and that's likely some number under 1% of rural houses.
The old timers would put dynamite in the ground and set it off and often times it would restore flow but these days people can't do that.
Dynamite would have been way easier
A few Taco Bell dinners ?
Great video! I have biomat pooling in one corner...so I'm assuming one line. I've added some last week...and will add more. Question...is a riding lawn mower, or a light duty farm tractor too heavy for field?
Thanks.
Riding mowers are perfectly fine but not the tractor (depending on the weight).
Okay, so as a certified professional septic tech..... This guy has no idea what he is talking about. He read a couple lines online, and took it for gospel.
Hes probably an engineer
Thank you so much for your guidance and help I truly appreciate getting the knowledge from listening to this video
You're welcome
I appreciate this vide thank you very mech.
My pumps being probably 20 years old finally failed. I temporary dropped in a sump pump to move gray eater to the drain field distribution pump tube, which was WRONG. Reviewing my AS BUILT I realized the engineer drew it WRONG, leaving put the all important SAND FILTER. I very likely fouled the tubes/orifices in the drain/leach field so tge effluent would not drain properly filling the sand field/pump tube with excess water.
I dropped in a couple packets of the green gobbler (why not?) And the Roedic K-57 Septic System Cleaner and within a couple days the drainfield accepting water and my Septic system was cleared. I ordered the K-570 but it hasn't arrived yet.
Thing about bio mass or anything slowing down your system is yoy need to be patient. The good bacteria NEEDS TIME TO WORK. Give it a couple days, we tend to want instant results and it just DOESN'T WORK that way. Let the clog get chewed up, it works.
Where possible don't let your washing machine water run into your septic tank.
Let only water from your kitchen and bathrooms run into the tank
I did a video on diverting my washing machine discharge water into a greywater system separate from my septic.
We use jetting all the time on septic lines never have had an issue unless the system has already failed and needs replaced. Been doing this for 20 years +
That is encouraging and you are about the fourth person to say this. All the research I did beforehand, including video accounts of angry customers and articles written on the subject, indicated that hydro jetting was damaging to the drain tile.
What I did forget to mention in the video was the fact that the effluent was coming out of the end of the drain tile/leach line. This to me still indicates and points to a biomat problem in the gravel. Thoughts?
I jet my lines every time I pump my tank. I bought a clog hog that attaches to the end of a pressure washer wand. This has saved my leach field. I had all the normal problems of backed up drains ect.. Jetting the lines after the tank is pumped allows all the debris back into the tank to be pumped or digested again. Add some microbes and your good for another 2yrs.
How can jetting work when the crap in the drain field is grease-based? I can see that it might temporarily help but long term?
I just run the garden hose up the drainfield line until it backflushes any solids that made it into the line. When the distribution box gets full turn the water off and clean out the sump. Do this over and over until only clean water comes out of the line. Probably not ideal but better than leaving it in there. I only do this every ten years when we get the tank pumped.
@@lilylily8711 as we hydro jet the lines we are also sucking out the crud with our pump truck hose. The trip of the jetter is forcing the crud back towards the box. End result clean lines
Plant fast growing trees on that ground like Australian blue gum trees for firewood. Trees will take up the excess water.
O.k trick is to never use squirt on toilet bowl cleaners that kills all bacteria. These chemicals ruines the system.
True
The first thing you did wrong was wait 3 yrs to pump a 500 gallon tank. Second, jetting is absolutely fine for leach lines, but you need to have a vac truck on site to pull all the water and sludge out while jetting. Third, you are not only wasting your money but potentially causing more trouble for your lines by using a monthly additive. Some of those products suspend your solids instead of letting them settle and thus sending them out to your drain field. And as far as liquid bacteria, yes it does work but again, you need to drain the flooded field out first. Otherwise it will never penetrate and break down the bio mat. 500 gallon tank with a family of four needs pumped out no more then every 2 years. 2 people in the house/4 yrs. also keep anti bacterial soaps out of septic.
I have a jetter (4200psi) and combined vac truck….how do you jet the root bound leach field when every lane of pipes meets at a Tjoint. Looks like we are going to have to lift or dig out the system and replace it. I’d certainly appreciate any advice.
I have not pumped my yank in 30 years and the only reason i did it then was because the original clay tile pipe collapsed leading to the tank . i have never had a problem since , i use ridex monthly it works fine.
I have a friend with septic problems, I need to share this with her, thanks so very much.
Glad it was helpful!
You can get this stuff at Tractor supply& I dumped mine in my septic tank. My drain field is in the neighbors farm land
Never put additives in your system. Ever.
Not enzymes but without the right bacteria you risk big problems.
Why?
Not a useful comment without stating your reasons why.
Can you elaborate please?
I just saw this video. I’m wandering if this worked. What r u calling your distribution box. We have a septic tank and leech field. We just bought a house and the septic passed but the leech field did not. A lot if rain before the inspection and the water was filling up the septic tank as soon as it was pumped out. Ty
The distribution box connects to a solid line that comes out of septic tank. It accommodates several drain tile lines that go in various directions into your field. Our's for instance has two lines coming out of it but can accommodate 4 plus the inlet from the septic. This method worked for us for 1 year. The system was too far gone for it to reverse the problem completely. We ended up putting in a new system ourselves for a great and inexpensive cost. Our video for that is here: ua-cam.com/video/6eLIDyqIg0U/v-deo.html
great info and your delivery/presentation is very informative, educational, and well thought out.. thanks again...
Thank you
Don't know how true this is but a friend had septic system for years and he swore by flushing 5 pounds of baking yeast every other month said it ate all crud out of system. Don't know if brewers yeast would work better ..Not advising anyone to do this but just passing this on just in case anyone would want to try. One caveat, however, he did this from start.
I have heard that one from several people before.
You can locate a d-box and determine it's depth below the surface with an inspection camera. 95 per cent of the bacteria action in a septic system takes place in the soil. a 1500 gallon compartment makes a great tank for a system. I put two of these tanks in row. If you run two outlet pipes out going into two seperate d boxes--put a good outlet tee filter in one, and a plug in the other--and switch them every year--the system could last until the end of time as long as you pump the tank(s) every one to three years based on your usage. the biomat will clean itself out in a year if nothing is going into it. I was in the business for 50 years. In someareas of the contry they have banned terralift, but it can stikk be used for other purposes-like I did. Look for my upcoming book-How to turn crap into a million dollar retirement fund--like I did. Coming out in 2024,
where are you located?
@@marlenebrotherhood9351 Little River, South Carolina
If i had built my house i would have made a drawing of my septic system, that said, i dont know why contractors leave us in the dark as to the layout of the septic system
I understand. I wish they would put it on some sort of plan.
Helpful video, I just ordered through your link.
Glad it was helpful!
Omg that dog!🤩
He is a trip.
It can also mean your using too much water and over loading the system. People think everyone in the house can take 20 minute showers everyday, have a dishwasher, wash 5 loads a once a week. Not if you have a septic system.
That is true but we were not. We use a little over 1/3 the average per household. It could also mean that the system was sized improperly. There are many factors.
@@CountryLivingExperience definitely undersized based on your usage. Best bet is to update it now before it causes backups. You may want to dig and check the distribution box. It maybe out of level and need levelers installed for even distribution of effluent. If there's poop in the distribution box that would not be a good sign and backups would be a very hazardous condition for the family. The house may will never sell if the system is undersized which is based on number of bedrooms normally or number of occupants. Get a good assessment from a reputable company. Don't put a band aid on it for short term fix. It'll cost more in the end. Good luck.
@@lou704 Thanks Lou.
$8000 - $50,000 Dollars !!! Where the heck do you live???
It's no where near that expensive in North Florida.
East Texas
It's exactly that expensive in the Northeast.
Averages $15,000 - $20,000 in NorthWest Washington
I'm in Massachusetts and my drain field is failing and was guess quoted $15,000- $30,000 by the company that pumped it. They don't install it but asked if they knew approx how much. All depends on the new engineering. It would be more for the whole system.... another guy in the know said since it is just drain field (although not officially confirmed by inspector) it may be as little as $10,000.....gotta love the Northeast!
@@rushrules81 from what I know, drain field replacement is a temporary fix and lasts 3 to 7 years at most. The best thing to do is to restore your soil.
3:51 SURPRISE DOGY
He surprises in many of my videos.
I'm having the same problem, only I keep noticing the smell of the septic tank occasionally in the guest bathroom that never gets used much. I have replaced the flange, etc.. but I still notice it. I'm going to try both of these products you suggest and hope it will help. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with those of us always trying to diy to save money. :)
Hope the less expensive option works for you.
Since you guest bathroom is not used much, the traps in the sink or shower may be drying out letting sewer gas to come into your house. Make sure the traps are filled by running water down them regularly. I have this problem with my downstairs bathroom since I run a dehumidifier down there.
@@scrapperstacker8629 Great tip!
It's gas coming from water in the traps evaporating. Just pour some baby oil in the drains, it won't evaporate like water will.
did roebic help?
So if you field is full and septic how does product flow into feild tiles
If your lines are full then the system is not able to be saved. You need to replace the lines.
what if you have a 1940 Terracotta system drainfielf lol ~ yep, replace, u f'ud
I agree
Just had my tank pumped. The man told me the top layer was almost 2 feet of toilet paper!! He said to use cheaper paper, as it is more friendly to septic systems. In other words, stay away from the more expensive quilted type, but don’t go too cheap either. My field is failing also. He took the time and dug down into the gravel bed, and sure enough, he dug up black gunk. Immediately we could see water in the hole. My field has been green and lush since it was installed. I live in good sandy soil. I thought this was normal. Nope! He said it should be more dry. I’m looking at around 4K he guessed for a second field. I’ll hook a “Y” in the line with a valve so hopefully the old field will recover, and then I can rotate between the two fields every couple of years. He mentioned the other methods you talked about, but did say to stay away from the aeration type system, as the pumps seem to wear out within five years or so.
Thanks for your thoughts Michael. I like the idea of just adding to the field and diverting it. Interesting idea. That is a lot of toilet paper...luckily we use the cheap thin stuff so no worries there.
I have 4 kids. After pumping the tank a few times, we implemented a new rule - use handi-wipes/baby wipes, and do NOT flush them. They go in the trash. That helped us a lot.
Andrew Johnson
Thanks for the information. My wife and daughter have just recently went to a fabric wipe for their pea only, then it can be washed and sanitized for reuse. Hopefully this will save toilet paper in the septic and save on the costs of the paper.
@@fordguyfordguy i've actually heard of others doing that.. especially those living in very VERY old 100 year old homes with ancient septic pipes that were not made to handle today's version of toilet paper. The people keep a metal lidded waste can near the commode, lined with a small garbage pail bag.. and only the body waste gets flushed.. while the toilet paper used to wipe is thrown in the can. naturally, the garbage can is emptied daily ... the garbage bag tied up and added with the main trash . Not the most pleasant solution, but a person's gotta do what a person's gotta do-- with their "Doo"! If i had to do that, i'd keep a can of Essential Oil air freshner in the bathroom.. They sell some really good stuff that actually eats odors instead of making them.. (and it's not FeBreeze, but something called "Airscense" you can probably find online at Vitacost, etc.. I have it and it works )
@@Boldyaug we found that practise widespread in Costa Rica. Signs in all of the tourist area bathrooms and rental units. Works for them.
DOGGIE PHOTO BOMB @3:52 🐶
He bombs all of my videos.
@@CountryLivingExperience Cute. "And here I am! See how impressively fast I am!?" Not one to be forgotten I guess, probably thinks he's famous by now. And thanks for providing such a forum to see so many of people's experiennces and fine ideas to ponder and weigh.
So if u dig down to distribution box and find other unused outlets. Then dig a couple leach lines about ten ft long. Buy some stone and sewer pipe with holes in it. Make sure the new lines are a bit lower at the far end then at box. Problem fixed for a good number of years
My old farmhouse septic system is over 50 years old. Nothing goes into tank but toilet and bath drains. Wash machine, dishwasher, kitchen sink, water softener all go into grey water tile. Very slight scum in tank. Without wash machine settling time and decomposition is greatly increased. The effluent filters give false sense of security. They don't remove the really small stuff. If they did you'd have to clean filter every month. The secret is to buy the biggest tank and keep water volume as low as possible.
Good advice. I am adding greywater reclamation.
So this was posted 5 years. Did you have a positive outcome after adding the Roebic? I have a similar issue such as yours.
My system was too far gone. The Roebic did extend the life of the system for another year but I had to eventually replace the leach lines. We did a video on that too.
@@CountryLivingExperienceThanks for the update.
We had a saturated leach field cause us big problems along with tons of other people. I'm looking at grey water diversion to reduce the load on our septic. Diverting one tub, laundry, dishwasher, and kitchen sink should still leave plenty of grey water to help work the black through my system, agreed?
Divert all your greywater. The blackwater is enough to move everything.
What if you don't have a distribution box.
Then you can flush it down the toilet
i would think roebic wouldn't be an option if your tank was just emptied or am i wrong. hoping i am wrong.
It will fill up very fast with liquid then the robeck will make it down the leach lines.
I believe when the tank is pumped, it's refilled with "clean" water to a certain level. It's just that there should be little or no slime and sludge layers in the tank after it's pumped & serviced.
I just had a problem; had to have my tank pumped after only 3 years, when the prior pumpouts were 7 and 8 years apart. (Tank holds 1500 gallons & fully fills the pumper truck!) They told my my leach field had failed, and that all I have now is a holding tank. However, I don't see how that product could work in this situation, because the leach lines aren't at the bottom of the tank, but closer to the top, so it seems to me that the tank needs to be fairly near full before water will start exiting into the leach pipes.
What about mixing the product with water, and pouring it directly into the soil where the leach field is? Might that not help better when the tank is actually still basically empty?
Otherwise, all we can do, and have been doing, is extreme water conservation, as when we had our severe 5-year drought. Waiting for water to get hot--run it into a bucket & use on plants; toilet--"if it's yellow, let it mellow, if it's brown, flush it down"; washing machine--small loads only (High efficiencly machine that 'measures' how much water for the load); large load--blankets, etc...go to laundromat....and so forth. It's all I can do, being on social security as my only income, and that's less than $2K/month...and the quoted price for a new septic system is low end $20K--up to as much as $45K!! No way I can do that!
The product helped extend the life of our system for 1 year. But in the end, our field was too far gone and we chose to replace it. We did it with the help of a friend who had installed them in the past so it only cost us $2k. Try routing your greywater to a rain garden outside and just have your toilets connected to the septic. New system prices are insane! Maybe try to claim it on your homeowners ins. Sorry your are having this issue.
Just watched this video, good information. Is there a follow up video on what the final solution was to fix the drain field?
Thank you. The Roebic worked for very good 1 year but it was not enough to reverse the total damage that had been done over time. We are now on to the next step.
@@CountryLivingExperience and what’s the next step?
@@elmeromero1794 ua-cam.com/video/6eLIDyqIg0U/v-deo.html
Get the lines hydro jetting a good company will know how to regulate the pressure in order to not destroy the drain field lines
Thank you
It is not the best idea, can help avoid a replacement but it does not fix the problem long term
@@lilylily8711 please, I don't know anything about these things. What would solve the problem? Thank you.
Is it going to work if I add it directly into the toilet?
It will. Keep in mind that if your system is too far gone, it will not work.
8K to 50K WHAT?? More like 5-10K but I'm doing it myself and will replace it for about 2K with a friend's backho
A mound is 15K+
Doing it yourself saves a ton of cash. I do not have that option.
In oklahoma its against the law to do a septic or drain field if your not licensed
Hell yea. We dug half the drain field already and mentally prepared to redo the pipes. Did you install a distribution box?
$8k low end? no way, $8k to $12k for complete septic system, not just drain fields.
In my area dude. Lucky it’s cheaper where you live.
We were just quoted $42k for a complete system 🤷🏻♂️
@@dexl9440 Yep. Crazy expensive where I live too.
As a Septic Professional with over 20 years of experience, I can assure you that you've got both Anaerobic and Aerobic bacteria in all Septic Systems... both types of bacteria exist in every system regardless of age or size, and that's an absolute fact. Regarding jetting the Distribution Pipes or Lateral Lines in the Leaching Field, it's perfectly fine as long as the pipes are made of PVC Plastic... especially Schedule 35 or Schedule 40 PVC Plastic. Lastly, if the grass is lush and green over the Leaching Area or Drainage Area of the yard, that's a bad sign, because the grass SHOULD NOT be greener over the Leachfield/Drainfield if it's functioning properly. In fact, lush green grass is usually an indication of a failed or failing system, so always pay attention to the lawn, and how the grass grows or is growing over your Septic System. It will be fairly obvious if you've got a problem.
Does hydrojetting work?
Do you recommend the bacteria treatments that go in the toilet?
@@domingo360 In my opinion, it's a waste of time and money to use any type of Septic Additives. I understand that lots of companies claim that adding bacteria to your Septic System will improve the systems performance, and even prolong the life of the system. To be clear, Septic Systems have been around a lot longer than any of these products or additives that are on the market today. Think about that for a moment, snd ask yourself why that is, because I think the answer is pretty obvious. Remember, every time you flush the toilet, you're giving the system exactly what it needs... Alright?
We get a ton of snow where we are. Should we let it pile on the field or remove it with a snowblower? Wondering about flooding the field during snowmelt vs keeping the field insulated in winter with the snow.
@@dancleary7724 Good Morning, I'm in New Hampshire, and as you can imagine, we get a serious amount of snow and cold weather... subzero temperatures are common here. So, to answer your question, leave the snow on the Leaching Field, because your system was designed with snow in mind. In fact, all Septic System Designer's and/or Engineers take rainfall and snowmelt into account, because the leachfield has to be able to handle whatever mother nature throws at it. Besides, in the winter, having a foot or two of snow in your yard, is actually a great insulator for the Septic System, which is a good thing... Alright?
If you can't find or your system doesn't have a distribution box, can you just simply pour it in the clean out pipe next to your septic tank?
Exactly what I did. Dig up the “outlet” inspection hole. Throw a hose in it and use a funnel to put it down the header line. Worked great!! (Although I literally did about 8 bottles on the first treatment)
SUBSCRIBED IMMEDIATELY when I see that you answer important questions!!! 🥳🥳🥳 No one ever does that, so thank you. 🙏🏼
Having the same problem. We've had so much rain this year its difficult to work on system. Thanks for the info.
You're welcome. Hope you get it sorted out.
lol sad but also a likely cheaper option.....out by us some dude set up a "sprinkler system" that fed water from his septic tank.....basicallly didnt need to pump his tank (he must not have flushed toilet paper or something....i dont know lol....but we know solids sink)....he'd literally just water his lawnn uutilizing his septic tank "water" every couple days......it was a nifty system but DEFINITELLY not to "code" lol.....
I don’t have any problems, and have been on my farm for 26 years, but I don’t want to take a chance. I bought the combo box for $55. Thank you for the advice and video. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I’m at 26 years. Going to try
Give it a shot. It helped for a short period of time but my system was too far gone. I ended up having to replace mine a year after this video was made.
Invest in WORMS!
Dig a little trench over your leach field and let them aerate their new home. Also cheap.
There are YT vids on how to do it. Various species do different things, and you can buy a "variety pack"
Each worm can process tons of dirt each year.
Down John works for us!
I've dug up all the lateral lines & everything looked good so far. I think my problem is the septic, it's a 30 year old house that's needing attention...
It is usually the drain field that goes bad. No biomat build up so far?
So after hiring a professional, they dug up the septic tank today while I was at work, come to find out the pump was worn out, so guess it wasnt as bad as i thought. That's what happens when you watch to many UA-cam videos lol... thanks for all your input, I've learned alot about this for the first time having this problem.
@@danielr8407 No problem. Hope you get it all worked out.
Me to and thanks, we'll see in the next couple of days how it goes. With a family of 6, the 2 toilets in our house gets flushed alot, lol...
Those bugs better be thirsty!
Putting bugs in your septic system, when it's clear that infiltration, over saturation,and surcharging is the problem, is like putting a muffler on your car when the water pump goes out!! It just ain't gonna work!! I worked in this field for over 17 years and saw an awful lot of shady stuff happen. It's not near as bad now as it used to be, but it still goes on! And an example of that would be whomever was paid off to approve a standard septic for this location, there's no way in hell this area is suitable for a standard septic! I dont know for sure that it's any good for a two tank mound even!
Ok. Thanks for your thoughts.
@@CountryLivingExperience i just reread my comment and while i came across a little harsh, i still stand by my evaluation of your system, i just hate to see you having problems everytime it rains. If you lived by yourself and no children, you probably would be alright!
I've seen homes that started as cabins that had one 4 inch line from the septic tank out, no dbox, just one run from the tank staight out. It worked for 30 years like that, because of very light use, and then it's bought by someone who needs an affordable starter home. Now there's a wife and 3 chidren using the toilet, and all of a sudden it no longer is working very well, then one day later it works no longer! And someone has a very very big problem and most likely a very big check to endorse also!
Like i said, sorry for coming across so harsh and sounding like a prick, but it should be done right for future peace of mind!
No worries. I didn't take it as harsh. I get much harsher comments than that on my channel.
Let me get some further thoughts from you. I still have an overflow problem out of the second tank and there is effluent running out of the end of the leach line about 150 feet away from the house. This indicates to me that it still is a biomat buildup/problem in the gravel field surrounding the leach lines. Thoughts?
@@CountryLivingExperience I'm not saying that you couldn't have a bio mat problem, but i am saying i doubt it! What you are experiencing is over saturation of the soil, Or simply put, you can't add water to a system that is already 0ver full without it coming out somewhere it's not supposed to, like your drain field all at once. It could be something more serious, but i doubt it.
We've all experienced record breaking rainfall for the last probably 3 or 4 years, everything is at it peak holding capacity and there's gonna be places like yours who experience problems associated with the record rain that probably won't happen to them again in our lifetime.
My brother died when he was 46 years old, and i ended up with his property. My youngest son Emory wanted to move in so i called the septic tank cleaner. I took my backhoe down and we got it dug up, when we got to look into the tank the water was just flying in! It sounded like a waterfall running backwards from the drain field! I never saw anything like it before, but it was just like this as far as weather and being very wet. It's worked flawlessly ever since, so go figure!
Try the easy cheap stuff first!
I've had my septic pumped a lot of times. I only ever see the intake pipe. Do all systems have a drain field? I don't think mine does.
There are different types of systems. Aerobic and anerobic. Some use a sprinkler, some are gravity fed like mine with a leach field.
Country Living Experience: A Homesteading Journey thank you for replying
I don't have neither. Just a tank. The house is 75 years old.
@@Chilliam13 That is old. Maybe time to get a new one if it is acting up.
@@CountryLivingExperience Could he drill holes on the base of his septic tank and around the side section of the walls?
Most do, unless you have a pit, grease trap, drywell or holding tank
Good stuff. Pooper is full. I use both products. You must use some treatment every single month. Or pooper will get full. Alot of problems with septics is poor contractors who took shortcuts and Leach lines are not properly buried 36inches below. I usually get a pump once a year. The ground gets so saturated with water it has no where to go but to back up.
Not true. The number one thing you can do is to know how to "treat" your septic because buildup will occur and saturate your soil.
I was told pumping once a year is a bad drainfield
@@nicklopez5298 yes, you need to restore it!
if my septic lines were three feet down they would be French drains .lol.