Zenith 750 AFT Wing Strut - I SCREWED UP!
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- In this video we will finish up the aft wing strut on the Zenith 750 series airplanes. This is a tricky one because the upper attach fitting goes into the strut at an angle.
Yes I screwed it up, but I'm gonna live with it. I better not hear about it when you see my airplane! LOL.
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If your at Oshkosh next summer with the SD, I’ll walk around the plane and just casually ask why the bolt is crooked. You’ll then rip the strut off right then and there and replace it. 🤣
Feel your frustration on that middle hole. Great videos in this entire strut series.
Totally agree about having the struts being a little more pre-fit. The geometry should be the same each time. I installed a set on a 701, and had the exact same thoughts. I wish I'd seen this before I started! Some of my bolts are slightly off too. Fortunately it's a 701, and no-one is likely to look too close! I also replaced the struts on our super cub with new aluminum struts from Javron. They cost about twice as much, but were about a thousand times better and easier!
Being a perfectionist is tough. I always strive for perfection, but rarely achieve it. I greatly admire your work.
I feel your pain as a fellow perfectionist. 😁. I lost a month of prime summer building time as I could not get the paint finish quality I wanted with the Stewart Systems paint I had planned to use. I have since switched to Axalta aviation paint which is a little more forgiving on vertical surfaces. Most probably would have been happy with the amount of orange peel in the Stewart’s paint, but it was a little too much for me and I simply can’t paint every surface in a horizontal orientation which seems to be what is required to get a decent finish without runs in the waterborne product.
I suspect the slight angle of that bolt isn’t an issue, but you may wish to consult with Zenith as that will lessen the load capacity of that bolt and will concentrate stress more heavily with the point contact points on the bolt.
Thanks for sharing the highs and lows of the build. I know that bolt will just bug you everytime you do a walk-around. No one else might ever notice it, but you. I know, I'm the same when it comes to those little mishaps on my projects...
Another great video showing your great attention to detail! Happy Labor Day!
I use a Gator drill guide when I can't use the drill press. Beats the heck out of free-handing it.
I don't know what that is, but it sounds like something I should have used! Learn the hard way...
@@KitplaneEnthusiast I just happened to come across it by luck and now I have 3 of them. Realy nice to have. Not always perfect for every single location but real helpful.
You can google search ' Gator drill guide'.
As you pointed out, "straightening" that crooked bolt hole would require upsizing the bolt. Seems to me that would be more noticeable than what you have now! How about just tapering a washer to eliminate the gap under the bolt head (and same method under the nut if necessary) and live with it? Which ever way you decide to go - will a strut fairing cover it up?
Of course, if you hadn't publicized it on this video, no one would ever notice except you! LOL!
You could also drill all the way threw with a smaller hole. Use a smaller bolt to hold it in place. Drill your other holes, and come back and ream it out on the drill press.
Boy, I sure wish Kitfox did their wing struts like Zenith. The round steel tubes used on the Kitfox struts are draggy and heavy, and their extruded PVC fairings are a pain in the backside (and add even more weight). They offer a teardrop shaped strut option, but they're also steel and weigh a ton. Zenith really has the right idea.
When I had my Kitfox I was going to order the streamlined struts but if I remember correctly they were almost $5,000!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Yeah, that's the other big problem with them. Even if you buy them as an option when you order a kit they're $3,250. Heck, the basic Kitfox kit with no options is $40k now! They've gotten too popular. I feel pretty smug about buying mine second hand for a song.
As you alluded to if you use an upsized reamer to slightly hog out opposing sides of those two middle holes that should gets things back to 90 degrees.
I empathize with your perfectionism. Getting ready to start a RV-12iS and am concerned that my similar traits will prevent me from finishing the project - or at least delaying the finish significantly. But, I really do admire your workmanship and videos.
Built 2 planes myself…
You can always “do over”…
Been there done that.
Your frustration is palpable. When you want it done exactly right and with all the effort, it still isn't quite right that's a tough one to live with. However it still does look good to a person like me.
Your mistakes are perfection to the rest of us.
Not sure if you did or not but you should center punch the hole first. Then use a center drill (like used in machining) then drill hole with a very sharp bit. When hand drilling it’s near impossible to keep bit from walking. I’m impressed you got the first bolt so straight by hand drilling!
You clearly are not understanding how the holes were drilled.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Well I’m basing everything off your explanation and video…. No offense intended. Guess you are still a little tender on the crooked bolt.. I would be too. 😕 By using center drill it will make a drill point on the steel tube inside the aluminum tube… preventing bit from walking when it transitions from aluminum to steel.
@@StubProductions I can’t explain it with out pointing and showing, but what I mean is that you’re misunderstanding the drilling. There’s no possible way to put a punch through the bottom hole, get it square and punch the location of the top hole.
Yeah. That is a very clunky system (if you can call it that) for drilling those holes. I find it hard to believe that pre drilling 24 holes would put the project under 51%. It would be a huge help if they just pilot drilled the holes.
That was very nice of you to take the blame for that crooked hole that Brian drilled. 😉
Ya I just hate to embarrass Brian like that. But I’ve had to fix a number of his mistakes!
Absolutely besides the point of being precise, ( what I admire about your build videos ! ) are you planning on fairing? Also,...as frustrating as errors are, I'm appreciative of the fact that I get to learn from yours! Thank you for the time and effort you put into making these videos!
I know how you feel, stuff like that tend to BUG a person.
I don't understand. The plan view and assembly manual for the wing strut attachments sure would be interesting for review.
Maybe an oversized -x or -y bolt (NAS6603?) could work to fix that one bolt...
-To transfer position of first screw entry/exit holes, use a paper TEMPLATE of the strut's EXTERIOR SECTION.
(Press paper to colored strut end, and cut a hole almost outside the printed mark)
-Slide paper in strut to first screw, and mark the position of entry/exit holes. Slide further to transfer marks at 2nd and 3rd screws' required distance from strut end.
Discard template after use.
Posted before watching video to the end and noticing that your last solution is better.
G,day Mark from Sydney Australia.
I can sympathize with your frustration regards to the nut and bolt alignment. Do you use (Loctite 222©) on you nuts?
I'm thinking vibration from the engine.
🌏🇦🇺
I like the clamping method but I don't see why the total difference between the extreme outboard fastener bore center and the extreme inboard fastener bore center measured in fine units of 1/32-1/64", couldn't be divided by three giving the fractional offset to the centerline. With the extreme outboard fastener bore under drilled to 1/8" the center and inboard fasteners bores would be located and verified through location of the undersize 1/8" holes drilled through the outer strut tube. Obviously, the fasteners will be located in thirds offset to the centerline of the strut tube. Tweaking the attachment; I feel is preferred in respect with desiring a nearly exact left and right strut image. As I've commented prior, Id prefer a simpler design in deference to this very aestheticly pleasing and lightweight selection.
In the end, probably the best solution for the builders is to have available to them a drill fixture.
The unanswered question is what should the difference be between the upper strut surface center and the lower strut surface center be? In consideration of the Longeron straight and level and the wing being 2.5-3.5° angle of incidence near to but aft of the front wing spar? In speculation the wing strut's orientation should approximate the wing incidence.
That said, in Lui of the possibility of the four wing strut's working against each other in flight my simpler thought is that I actually prefer a smaller diameter thicker wall thickness round tube appropriately sized for the design.
I don't think your left rear wing strut is that bad, the right one is perfect.
That's a very good idea of yours if Zenith shortened the wing struts to the correct length and fitted them with match drilled holes.
Didn't you have to order new struts for your Cruzer back then?
Simply use a magnet to find center.
Why not just make a tappered washers to sit under the head of the bolt and under the nut?
I didn’t know you could paint over powder coating.
My left one is crooked too bud
Your plane is never gonna fly. LOLOL
tack it take it off and take it drill press